Setting up electronic ignition on Ural motorcycles

Leave it to mechanics or install electronics

Perhaps not all older motorcycle models are running.
The Ural motorcycle sits and rusts in my grandfather’s barn because it won’t start. The wheels are spinning, the engine is not jammed. Maybe the spark goes into the ground, as they say. In short, you need to look at the spark generation system. But even a working motorcycle, with a contact ignition system, causes unexpected and unpleasant problems for its owner:

won't start when you really need it;
with new oil rings in the engine, the spark plugs become covered with soot;
there is no required engine power when driving with maximum load;
the maximum speed is not reached;
The battery is slightly discharged and the engine does not start.

The contact ignition system creates a lot of problems, especially when the moving parts in it have already worn out, backlash has appeared, and the geometry of the elements has changed.

The solution is simple - all cam ignition is thrown out, a modern electronic non-contact type spark generation system is installed. You will no longer have to deal with the thankless task of cleaning contacts and endlessly adjusting the gaps in the breaker. All this is possible thanks to the simple, but quite reliable design of the motorcycle. For example, it is quite easy to set the thermal gap and adjust the valves in the Urals with your own hands, using only your own tools from the garage. This way you will gain valuable experience and save money on visiting the workshop.

A little history

The Ural was based on the military model BMW R71, manufactured in Germany. During the war, our military captured a lot of such equipment. The very first sample was made during hostilities. It differed from the German one in several additional devices.

When the Iraq War took place, in order to increase maneuverability and achieve greater mobility of the military, the Iraqi government purchased a large number of motorcycles from Russia.

To make the vehicle more stable, additional channels were attached to it. Security was provided by fixed machine guns in conjunction with flamethrowers. Improved models have become very popular with the military. After the end of the war, American military personnel became interested in motorcycles.

Our partners offer owners of foreign models tuning and spare parts for Harley Davidson in a wide range - from electrics to engines.

Few people know what oils to put into a Ural motorcycle. The Ural motorcycle is considered the most common vehicle in the Russian Federation after cars.

It is ridden by both urban motorcyclists and rural residents. This motorcycle is especially common in the southern and western regions of Russia.

Content

Replacing spark plugs before installing electronic ignition systems

Spark plugs are the last element of the spark generation system in any engine. They work under conditions of high pressure and temperature.

Sparking occurs on them when a high voltage pulse is applied. Therefore, it is not possible to test them, without a test bench, in domestic conditions.

The serviceability of a working spark plug can only be judged visually - by carbon deposits on its tip or presence on the “skirt”. To ensure reliable engine operation, change spark plugs according to the motorcycle operating rules, without expecting them to work forever.

Choose the correct heat rating when purchasing spark plugs. Set the gap in the spark plug electrodes to 0.7-0.8 mm.

We hope that these problems with the spark plugs are not observed and, after purchasing (manufacturing) a non-contact type ignition system and replacing the spark plugs, we begin adjustment work.

URAL starter does not turn

If the control system of the above equipment does not turn on the starter when turning the ignition key to start, then the cause of the breakdown lies in the electrical equipment or electronic systems of the truck. The reasons may be the following:

Faulty relay and fuse box
Lack of contacts in electrical wiring connectors
Truck main relay malfunction
Failure of the ignition switch Failure of the starter
CAN bus break or short circuit
Lack of “mass”
No supply voltage at the engine control unit
Open or shorted wiring harness
Starter solenoid relay malfunction
Failure of the ignition switch
Failure of the engine control unit

Signs of poor ignition performance on a Ural motorcycle

The motorcycle does not start well;
Kickstarter is kicking;
The engine does not develop full power;
Weak spark when checking spark plugs.

Before setting the ignition, the battery must be well charged; the “strength” of the spark depends on this. If the battery is weak, and this is checked by the signal (horn), since the warning lamp can light quite brightly, and the signal horn barely makes a sound, then attempts to start the motorcycle will be useless.

To set the ignition:

unscrew the front engine ignition cover,
unscrew the bolt pos. 9 (key for 10) which is held by the advance automatic,
unscrew the three bolts that hold the breaker body,
disconnect the wire going to the ignition coil.

We remove the breaker housing, clean it from dirt, and wipe it dry. We check the contacts of the breaker; if there are visible defects, we eliminate them with sandpaper. The plane of the contacts must be smooth, without distortions.

After cleaning, we put the breaker housing assembly back in place, do not tighten the fastening bolts, put the ignition timing switch in place, and tighten the bolt that holds it.

Unscrew the bolt pos. 1 which fixes the movable contact of the breaker, and with the eccentric pos. 11 we set the maximum gap between the contacts of the breaker to 0.5 mm. Fix with bolt pos. 1.

We take a 12 volt lamp (or a multimeter) and connect it parallel to the ignition contacts. Those. one end of the lamp to the wire that goes to the ignition coil, and the other to the housing. And turn on the ignition on the motorcycle. It turns out that when the breaker contacts are closed, the lamp does not light. The contacts open and the lamp lights up. At the moment when the breaker contacts open and a spark occurs at the spark plug. The moment of opening the contacts is regulated by turning the body of the breaker itself clockwise or counterclockwise.

To set the contact opening moment, you need to open the inspection window on the engine, where you can see the flywheel. Using Kickstarter, set the mark on the flywheel so that it matches the mark on the engine, next to the inspection window.

If there is no mark on the flywheel or it is not visible

You need to unscrew the valve cover of the left cylinder and use the kickstarter to set the moment when both valves are closed. Unscrew the spark plug, insert a caliper into the hole, and bring the piston to the extreme point, this will be TDC. Then take out the caliper and spread it 7.5 mm. Move the piston with TDC using the kickstarter, and determine when the valves are closed, insert the caliper into the spark plug hole again. And slowly bring the piston to the caliper so that it rests against it. Thus, the piston will not reach TDC by 7.5 mm, this is the moment when the advanced ignition is triggered. The breaker is set according to it.

If you don’t have a caliper, you can simply insert an elastic wire, take a few measurements to determine the TDC, then push it 7.5 mm deeper and bring the piston to it. This can also be done by unscrewing the head and measuring 7.5 mm from the TDC of the piston.

If there is no mark on the flywheel, then you can put it with a chisel, but carefully so that you don’t have to search for TDC for a long time.

Messages [14]

1↑ Topic by roman811 07/14/2016 18:25:38

roman811
Experienced
Inactive

Registered: 06/12/2016
Posts: 132
Reputation:

Topic: ignition adjustment on the Dnieper

The wire adjustment is as follows: first I adjust the gap on the cams to 0.45 mm (I turn the slider so that the cams open as much as possible). Then I display the letter P (early ignition) on the flywheel, turn the ignition ON and magnetize the key to the coil. I begin to turn the ignition housing all the way slowly but the key and doesn’t fall ((. I set the gap on the cams to different values 0.4, 0.5. 0.6 but the key still doesn’t fall. Help, what’s wrong?

Added: 07/14/2016 18:25:38

I installed the runners from both the old and new models and to no avail. There are sparks on the candles.

2↑ Reply from NIKITA36 07/14/2016 18:39:28

NIKITA36
Assistant
Inactive
Name: SERGEY

From: OSTROGOZHSK
Registered: 25-10-2014
Posts: 177
Reputation: 25
Motorcycle: YES

Re: ignition adjustment on the Dnieper

Why are you so attached to these keys with light bulbs?! Well, if the key does not fall, then the contact does not open - it may have a short to ground, or maybe the cam is not positioned correctly.

And again I am sending a train around the world. I don’t break my hands, I don’t scream out loud. And they won’t impose other people’s passengers on me - I put whoever I want on my train.

3↑ Reply from 16 18:52:46

666
Technical support, materials scientist
Inactive

Registered: 06-05-2010
Posts: 6,591
Reputation: 602

Re: ignition adjustment on the Dnieper

So I don’t understand this masochism. some creature at one time spread this nonsense about keys and light bulbs in the ignition control and people are still suffering.. Roman. If you turn the ignition housing, put it in approximately the middle position. Then you set the crankshaft to the TDC position, and if necessary, use a screwdriver to check through the spark plug hole whether the piston is exactly at top dead center. Next, either use a screwdriver or something else to move the flywheel back a little (not to the front, but BACK), approximately 10mm from the TDC mark. (if you don’t understand, we set the ignition for you earlier).. Then you go and adjust the gap on the cam. gap from 0.4-0.6 mm. If you don’t understand how and where the flywheel is shifted relative to its position at TDC. then you simply adjust the clearance on the cam when the piston is at TDC. It will work 100% But the ignition timing will be slightly different.

(2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5)

Troubleshooting problems with the ignition system on a Ural motorcycle

Checking the ignition system, first of all, occurs with an initial check of the functionality of the breaker

It is important to pay attention to the operation of the ignition advance machine, in which it is undesirable to have various complaints. The resistance of the primary winding, which is measured by the tester, must be at least 6 ohms. Next, the secondary winding is checked, for which the tester is connected to the high voltage connections

The voltage of such a winding should be exactly 10 kOhm. Repair of Ural and Dnepr motorcycles, like many others, cannot be done without all these manipulations aimed at optimizing its operation. Checking the ignition does not end there. Next, the spark plug caps and high voltage wires ring. Resistance indicators, in these cases, should vary. The plug caps should have approximately 2 kOhm, and the wires should have almost zero (this is an important aspect). During these manipulations the problem will be found and fixed.

Next, the secondary winding is checked, for which the tester is connected to the high voltage connections. The voltage of such a winding should be exactly 10 kOhm. Repair of Ural and Dnepr motorcycles, like many others, cannot be done without all these manipulations aimed at optimizing its operation. Checking the ignition does not end there. Next, the spark plug caps and high voltage wires ring. Resistance indicators, in these cases, should vary. The plug caps should have approximately 2 kOhm, and the wires should have almost zero (this is an important aspect). During these manipulations, the problem will be found and eliminated.

Ignition adjustment and repair in the Urals and Dnieper

The ignition on a motorcycle can be checked by following the following procedure:

We take the most ordinary incandescent lamp, which is naturally working. We connect one end of the wire contact to ground, and connect the second, which comes from the breaker, to the terminal. Setting the ignition on Dnepr and Ural motorcycles is done by turning the crankshaft until the marks on the crankcase and on the flywheel, which has the letter “P,” completely coincide. Next, turn on the ignition, while retracting the automatic weights to the very end. Under this circumstance, the incandescent lamp should light up instantly. If this does not happen, i.e. the lamp does not light up, or this happened before the weights were completely retracted, then ignition adjustment is necessary.
We loosen the screws on the breaker. Next, you need to move the weights to the very end and slowly turn the breaker structure until the incandescent lamp starts to burn. This happens exactly the same as when contacts are closed, when a spark jumps between the electrodes of the spark plug itself. After carrying out these procedures, the structure of the breaker and its position must be securely fixed using fastening screws. It is worth noting that in all MT models, the ignition timing must be at least 34 degrees before dead center.

Adjusting the ignition of a Ural motorcycle

In general, installing an ignition on Ural and Dnepr motorcycles significantly increases the main technical indicators of this motorcycle. The ignition setting allows you to easily start the motorcycle even in the coldest time of the year, when consistently negative temperatures prevail. In addition, the ignition installation of the Ural motorcycle allows you to optimize and normalize the operation of the engine, increase the spark phase, which has a positive effect on the exhaust gases that come out of the motorcycle pipe. Simply put, these gases become less harmful to human health and the environment.

Ignition adjustment

Conclusion

With proper adjustment and installation of the ignition, the amount of fuel consumed is significantly reduced. If the battery has insufficient voltage, the motorcycle engine will be started in any case, naturally, provided that the Dnepr motorcycle ignition has been installed. Older models of the Ural motorcycle generally do not have electronic ignition, which is a definite problem for its owners. You shouldn’t despair, because you can completely adjust the ignition yourself, without going to specialized salons. This should be done at least because contactless ignition can significantly improve engine performance and also make it easier to start your bike.

source

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Peculiarities

Before setting up the ignition, you should understand what elements it consists of in the Urals. This will allow you to avoid some mistakes and also configure it more accurately. If you bought the motorcycle secondhand, then the ignition may be homemade, in which case it will have to be redone.

The main source of the high-voltage pulse is the ignition coil, often called the bobbin. Can be used from Oka. It is installed separately from the main body. A chopper (cams), which is equipped with a device for advancing the ignition angle. A couple of candles. There is a set of wires for low and high voltage. This also includes power supplies, as well as their switch.

It is worth noting that, depending on the assembly, it may require 6 or 12 volts. The difference between these systems is in the coils

On twelve volt coils a B-204 coil is used, on six volt coils B-201. The connection diagram here is standard.

The breaker has a rather complex design, which consists of several elements. The housing contains a movable and fixed cam with a regulator, which operates from centrifugal force. There is also a capacitor that directly controls spark formation.

Brand popularity

Although Ural is found everywhere in the Russian Federation, a large number of manufactured mopeds are sold to other countries. Only three percent of the total volume remains in Russia. This is due to the considerable cost of the motorcycle. For the same price it is possible to purchase a used car of excellent quality.

Realizing that this bike was very popular abroad, I decided to reconstruct it, started buying spare parts abroad, and carrying out the assembly in the Russian Federation. About a thousand bikes are produced annually and are already sold in advance. It’s hard to imagine which countries they drive on.

"Ural" is made on the basis of military bikes "BMW R71". They were produced by the Germans in the forties of the last century. The first “Ural” was manufactured during the Second World War and had additional devices that distinguished it from German motorcycles. To make the army more maneuverable and mobile, Iraq purchased many bikes from the Russian Federation. They were equipped with additional channels, machine guns and flamethrowers. It was after the Iraq war that America began to become interested in these bikes.

Technical characteristics of the motorcycle Dnepr MT 10

The main technical characteristics of a motorcycle are the engine performance. The engine is a four-stroke engine with two valves and two cylinders, the valves are located at the top. The new product was distinguished by the presence of good traction, which is provided by a volume of 649 cm3. Power was 36 hp. Fuel injection was made possible thanks to two K-301D carburetors.

Electricity was generated using an alternating current generator with a voltage of 12 volts. Moto Dnepr MT 10 had excellent torque, reaching 46 Nm. At maximum acceleration at high power, the bike reached up to 5,800 rpm. The kit included a rechargeable battery; if desired, you can add two batteries.

Selection of candles

The contactless system has certain requirements for candles. If they are faulty or do not fit a specific motor, then you will not get any positive effect from using this system.

Be sure to check the condition of the spark plugs. They should not have soot. It is optimal if the electrode is sand-colored

If necessary, replace the spark plugs; when selecting, pay attention to the heat rating. When the spark plugs are in order, the electronic ignition can be installed

Now you can install a new ignition system for the Ural motorcycle. Before starting work, dismantle the old BSZ. Installation is carried out in the following order:

We install a new coil, here you will need a connection diagram, otherwise problems will arise further;
We install the ignition module, it should be secured so that it is directed towards the coil.
The engine rotor is installed in the position at which the ignition is adjusted.

Now you have a contactless ignition system installed, all you have to do is configure it to achieve optimal performance

Please note that setup here is only required once. In fact, you already know how to install BSZ

Now we adjust the ignition timing. We install the motor in accordance with the marks, connect all the wires. Next you need to adjust the position of the sensors. Next, we attach all the elements and check for sparking. If everything is fine, then you should drive 10-20 kilometers and check the set angle again.

If necessary, adjustments are made, but if everything is done correctly, this will not be necessary. Knowing how to do contactless ignition on your motorcycle, you will not wonder how much this work costs in a workshop.

Adjustment

If you have identified a problem with out-of-phase phases, then you just need to find out how to set the ignition on a Ural motorcycle. This will make your life much easier in the future. Please note that the electronic ignition on the Ural motorcycle is regulated completely differently.

So, you need to adjust the ignition of the Ural motorcycle. To work, you will need wrenches, a screwdriver, and it is advisable to take a test light. Adjustments are made in the following order:

First, set the engine to the top dead center position of the first cylinder, and this should be the compression stroke. You can check this as follows: unscrew the spark plug, plug the hole with paper and crank the engine. When the resulting plug is knocked out, you can stop, this is the desired position.
Loosen the fastening of the breaker body, after which it is turned all the way clockwise, and a 12-volt test light is connected to the contacts;
Turn on the ignition and turn the breaker housing until the light turns on. As soon as it lights up, you should stop and secure the lid. This completes the setting of the advance angle.

Izh Jupiter 5 ignition adjustment is done in approximately the same way. Now you know how to configure this system on your motorcycle.

Previous entry Installing electronic ignition on a Ural motorcycle

Next entry Restoring a Ural tuning motorcycle

Selection of candles

The contactless system has certain requirements for candles. If they are faulty or do not fit a specific motor, then you will not get any positive effect from using this system.

Be sure to check the condition of the spark plugs. They should not have soot. It is optimal if the electrode is sand-colored

If necessary, replace the spark plugs; when selecting, pay attention to the heat rating. When the spark plugs are in order, the electronic ignition can be installed

But what if there is no such card? You should experiment with it. We get on a motorcycle, go on a tour, and it's tiring! When we reach maximum speed, we start playing with the switch, changing in advance. As soon as we deny at what advancement our motor has the most power, we return home. The memory module transmits data to the computer and reads what we just had before. Knowing this progression, we can make up bad characteristics during rotation.

But remember that such characteristics will already be better than no one! The preliminary reading values in degrees are entered into the program. In addition to the ignition map, we must enter several other values. Due to quite compelling technical reasons, in such situations it is not possible to change the ignition point, so we must set it at this moment when we receive the pulse signal. To minimize the adverse effects of switching between hard ignition and map, hysteresis should be applied. The maximum hysteresis value, i.e. The moment the card is turned on should be at a slightly lower speed than is usually used for starting, so that the card is turned just before it starts. The minimum value should be less than the minimum speed you can drive. These values are not critical, but must be chosen experimentally. The hysteresis is designed to prevent hiccups when the ignition is off, so the minimum value should be slightly higher than the maximum. This should protect the coil from overheating. After this disconnection, the coil is turned on during the next stroke. Hysteresis values of the map. . It reads from programmed characteristics.

No spark causes and solutions

When there is no spark after an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine, or the spark on the spark plugs suddenly disappears and, of course, the engine does not start, then some novice drivers do not know where to start to get rid of this malfunction. This article will describe the reasons why a spark may be absent or appear every once in a while, and will also discuss methods for simple diagnostics (troubleshooting) of the ignition system.

I have already written about repairing the ignition system and you can read about it in detail in this article. It describes in detail the testing of all components of the ignition system, both the modern contactless electronic and the more ancient contact ignition system.

But this article will describe when there is no spark, the reasons and specific actions to ensure that a spark appears on the spark plugs.

No spark causes and solutions.

1. Let's start with the simplest and gradually move on to more complex reasons. The first and most common reason is a discharged battery. Of course, this can be determined without a voltmeter, since a discharged battery will not crank the crankshaft with an electric starter of a car or motorcycle. But many drivers, after an unsuccessful attempt to start with an electric starter, try to start the car with a pusher, hoping that the energy of the discharged battery is not enough for the starter, but is quite enough for the ignition system. In most cases this is not the case.

And if the energy of a discharged battery for a contactless electronic ignition system in most cases is enough to cause a spark and a successful attempt to start the engine from the pusher, then for an older contact system, the energy of a discharged battery will not be enough to cause a spark (especially if the contacts are burnt, and this happens often) . Therefore, in order not to guess and not waste human energy on pushing the car, we simply bring the battery back to normal using a charger. Beginners can read how to properly charge the battery here.

2. Another simple and banal reason why there will be no spark on the spark plug is simply a failure of the spark plug or it is simply necessary to clean the spark plug (read how to check and properly clean the spark plug here). Of course, the spark plugs don’t all fail at once, and if one of the spark plugs fails, the four-cylinder engine will simply start to stall. Therefore, this reason is only suitable for single-cylinder motorcycle engines, but still it was worth mentioning, let’s move on.

But before checking and cleaning a non-working spark plug, try swapping the high-voltage wires and if a spark appears on a previously non-working spark plug, then the reason is not in the spark plug, but in the spark plug wire, which should be replaced.

3. The third reason for the loss of spark, which often happens on used cars and motorcycles, is there is no voltage at the ignition coil terminal after turning the ignition key. Using a tester set to voltmeter mode (measuring direct current), you should measure at the coil terminals whether a voltage of 12 - 13 volts is supplied to terminal B+ of the coil (see figure) when the ignition switch is turned on. If it doesn’t, then you should check the integrity of the wire going from the lock to the coil (or from the mounting block to the coil - GP wire in Figure 1), and also check whether the terminals are oxidized.
4. If voltage comes to terminal B+ of the coil after turning on the ignition switch, but there is still no spark, then you should check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of the terminals of the wire coming to the distributor from the coil (the black wire marked with the letter C in Figure 1) and in general check all the wires and terminals of the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system (check the wires marked with the letters G and K, as well as GC and K. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the operation of the ignition switch itself 8 and the ignition switch relay 7, which rarely fail but still fail. And of course, we check the integrity of the fuses responsible for these circuits (in general, I advise beginners to check all the fuses at the very beginning).
5. On a contactless electronic ignition system, use a voltmeter to check the presence of a voltage of 12 volts (after turning on the ignition switch) at terminal B+ of the ignition coil, as well as at terminal 4 of the switch and check the integrity of the wire marked with the letters GP in Figure 2. We also check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of terminals K of the coil and terminal 1 on the switch and the integrity of the control wire of the gearbox connecting them. We also check the integrity and reliability of the connection (cleanliness of the terminals) with the car body of the black wire marked with the letter H in Figure 2, which connects terminal 2 of the switch to the car body. What can happen on the car due to poor contact of a lot of other wires, I advise you to read this useful article.
6. Next, we check the integrity of the wires and the reliability of the connection between terminals 3, 5, and 6 of the switch and the Hall sensor (wires marked with the letters Z, P and BC in Figure 2). If the terminals are securely connected and not oxidized, and the wires are intact, then we check the functionality of the hall sensor itself (read how to do this here). Well, you can find out how to check the functionality of the switch and ignition coil by clicking on the very first link at the beginning of this article, in the article about repairing the ignition system).
7. Having checked the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system, as described above, if everything is in order and a spark has not appeared, then we check the high-voltage part of the system. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then first of all we check the central high-voltage wire G (see Fig. 2), connecting ignition coil 5 and distributor 1. The tips of this wire must be clean and must be tightly inserted into the mounting sockets of the distributor cover and the ignition coil . We check the wire itself for integrity using a tester set to ohmmeter mode.
8. If there is no spark on only one spark plug out of four, then we check the high-voltage wire of the non-working spark plug (you can swap the wires, as described above, or check the wire of the non-working spark plug using a tester). Also, having removed the distributor cover, we check it for integrity (there should not be even the slightest cracks) and the cleanliness of all contacts inside and outside the cover, and the integrity of the carbon (graphite cylinder) in the center of the cover.

Contactless ignition systems

Not so long ago you could only find a homemade device. The reason is the lack of proper supply in stores. Craftsmen in garages remade the contactless unit from other motorcycle models and assembled it from individual parts. This is a rather complex activity that requires skills. Now you can purchase a ready-made kit without any problems.

In subsequent approximations, it turns out that the combustion time of the mixture depends on its temperature, composition, octane number and many other factors. However, the most important are rotation and vacuum. Depending on the vacuum approx. There are many books ahead on variable ignition; there is little information on this issue on the Internet, even in English.

The main idea is to minimize interference to existing electrical installations, without mechanical modifications and to be assembled in such a way that, in the event of a device failure, it can quickly return to its previous state. We now develop the most common installation types.

There are many advantages to using ready-made products. At a minimum, they have been tested in the Urals, which guarantees reliable operation. It is also much easier to install a ready-made unit than to make it yourself. The following sets can be found on the market:

"SoveK". Under this brand you can find regular contactless ignition, as well as a more advanced microprocessor ignition. The assembly can be supplied with or without a bobbin. Easy to install and practically does not respond to voltage changes;
"Saruman." Quite an interesting and reliable assembly. There are two sensor options available here; there can be a conventional Hall sensor, or a modern optical one. There is protection against voltage surges, especially high current. To simplify setting the ignition, there is a light indication.

Using ready-made kits is currently the best option.

Electronic Hall effect control with digital output

Connect the positive end of the meter to the wires coming from the pulse transmitter. Electronic Hall effect control with analog output, inductive or optoelectronic sensor.

Connect the negative end of the meter to the motorcycle weight.
Turn on the ignition.
Turn the crankshaft slowly.

Unfortunately, in this case you need to develop a specialized circuit.

Where can I get an ignition card for your motorcycle? If the motorcycle has a static ignition, it usually does not have guidance in the manual or on the service website for such a card. However, you can get it. Huche received it after a long exchange of mail with the Kanuni factory in Turkey.

Reasons for popularity

The main share of motorcycles produced by this brand is exported. Only 3% of the total output remains in Russia. The reason for such a small “remainder” is due to the cost of the bike. It is approximately equal to the price of a good car, albeit not new, but in decent condition.

In recent years, the demand for this bike abroad has become simply record-breaking. Therefore, it was reconstructed. Component parts come from abroad, and assembly is carried out in Russia.

During the year, the plant produces about 1000 motorcycles. Moreover, all of them are sold in advance according to individual orders. "Ural" is popular in many countries. It can be found in Canada, Australia, USA, Europe.

Electronic ignition “Saruman”

The Saruman microprocessor ignition system is another way to quickly and without much hassle replace the outdated contact ignition of the Ural. Manufacturers promise the same set of advantages as the previous system. There are two configuration options: with a Hall sensor and with an optical sensor. The second option is somewhat more expensive, but it is usually recommended, since the optical sensor is more accurate and reliable. However, reviews from motorcycle owners are not as good as we would like, mostly complaints are made about the quality of assembly of parts. Another complaint is that the kit does not include an ignition coil.

Settings

The rotor lights up green when receiving an engine impulse, red during scheduled ignition. The tests revealed that some things still need to be improved. In the meantime, the processor was upgraded to a newer version and new programs were added to the program. The rotation, forward and other parameters are sent via serial communication to the computer for further analysis. It has, among other things, an ignition premise.

A fan motor is a good approximation of a pulse generator, but has its limits, mainly in terms of acceleration. My child was taken from the hands of a criminal, that is, the previous owner, brought and buried in a garage.

One of the main pain points of heavy Ural motorcycles is the ignition system. Although currently motorcycles produced by IMZ are equipped with Italian-made Ducati Energia electronic ignition, only about three percent of the bikes produced today are sold in the Russian Federation. Most of the owners travel across the country using outdated mechanical ignition in the Ural. Electronic one has a number of advantages.

Eventually it was redesigned. The reason for the failure was the poor aluminum five-wheel driver. The other not-so-great part was the rubber O-ring, which used to wear out and caused problems during assembly, but the main problem was the driver's fingers that screwed in the screws that secure the pressure plate springs. As a result of intensive work, the aluminum driver's struts could move in the longitudinal direction, which led to the screws securing the springs being pulled out or falling off.

Loose screws or broken driver parts can become trapped between the rotating elements of the prismatic drive and cause chucks to crack and even lock up the gearbox. There were also problems replacing friction discs. When assembling the clamping disc, the screws must be screwed to the driver's seat using regular screws. Worn screws often had threaded threads, causing the screws to break on the driver's aluminum pins.

Examination

If there is any suspicion of problems with the ignition, you should check that it is working correctly. Diagnosis is carried out in the following order;

We check the mechanical component of the unit. We look to see if the cam mechanism is stuck; if there are problems with mobility, then it is worth checking its performance. Be sure to measure the gap between the cams; most often it turns out to be too small, which prevents sparks from forming; The next step is to check for the presence of a spark. To do this, turn on the ignition and force the cams to move using a screwdriver, creating a gap. The spark should be blue and white. If it is red or orange, then you need to look for a malfunction. Take a multimeter and measure the resistance at the bobbin terminals

Attention! The ignition must be turned off. On the primary winding the resistance should be 6 Ohms, on the secondary winding 10 Ohms; The resistance between ground and terminals is checked, in optimal condition it should be 6-15 Ohms, if more, then the problem is in the wire; The tester is also used to ring high-voltage wires

If the resistance tends to infinity, then it is worth replacing the wire; it is better to do it as a set; The last step is to check the condition of the candles. Electrodes should have a sand color. It is recommended to maintain a distance of 0.6 mm between them.

Actually, this is all that should be checked. Microprocessor varieties are also checked in approximately the same way. SoveK ignition is of this type.

If everything is in order with this, then we look at the spark plugs.

Unscrew the spark plugs. Are they damp and smell like gasoline? This means they are flooded. This can be for two reasons - you filled them or there is a malfunction in the motorcycle.

If you did this, for example, you turned off or started the motorcycle incorrectly, then you can fix it as follows.

Dry the spark plugs, blow them out and heat them. !We do not clean with a wire brush!

Next, put the dry spark plugs in place and try to start the motorcycle. If the motorcycle works, then !hurray! we continue our way.

TIP: purchase and carry a spare set of candles with you; once filled candles can stop working at any time, even if you bought them just yesterday.

If after the above steps the motorcycle does not start, then there is a clear malfunction either in the presence of a spark or in the fuel supply. You will have to take the motorcycle to a specialist motorcycle service center.

The candles are fine, they are dry.

How to adjust the ignition on a boxer

A correctly adjusted Ural or Dnepr should start with half a turn. If, despite the carburetor float chambers being filled with gasoline, you have to hit the kickstarter for a long time before the engine reluctantly starts to spark, then it’s time to adjust the ignition. This must also be done if the engine backfires when starting, and knocks during operation, overheats, or runs poorly, let’s turn our attention to the classic system with a PM 302A breaker, which is equipped with the vast majority of heavy motorcycles. Let's look at the whole process from the very beginning.

On a new motorcycle (if you were lucky enough to buy one), the contacts, as a rule, are skewed and touch at one point. Using small pliers, you need to slightly bend the contact fastenings so that the area of their contact is maximized. It is more convenient to bend the movable contact hammer; it is more pliable.

After this, the contacts should be cleaned with sandpaper, folding it in half and placing it between the contacts. You don't need to remove a lot of metal. Then the sandpaper should be replaced with a soft cloth soaked in clean gasoline, and the remaining abrasive should be thoroughly removed. After completing this operation, it will not be superfluous to lubricate the axis of the moving contact by dropping 1-2 drops of spindle or motor oil onto it. Apply a few drops of the same oil to the felt felt.

Let's install the breaker with the ignition timing machine in place (don't forget about the mark on the machine's leash!). Now let's adjust the gap between the contacts. Let's set the cam to the position where they are maximally open. Having loosened the screw securing the fixed contact, we will rotate the eccentric with a screwdriver, while simultaneously measuring the gap size with a 0.5 mm thick feeler gauge. When the probe begins to enter the gap with slight friction, carefully close the screw.

Turning the crankshaft using the kickstarter, we will find an arrow on the flywheel (for “Urals”) or a “TDC” mark (for “Dneprs”) and set it opposite the mark in the viewing window.

Now you need to turn on the ignition. Let's take an 8x10 wrench and apply it to the steel core of the coil. We will turn the breaker body in the direction of the arrow stamped on its cover until the key touches the core. In this position, lightly tighten the breaker mounting screws so that it can rotate, but with some effort.

Let's take a long thin rod, for example, an old knitting needle, rest one end of it against the breaker flange, and apply light blows to the second with a small hammer or a 19x22 wrench, thereby slowly turning the breaker in the opposite direction. At the moment the contacts open, the key, attracted to the ignition coil, will fall with a melodious ringing. In this position, the breaker mounting screws must be tightened.

It remains to check that the initial ignition timing we have set is correct. To do this, turn the crankshaft until the contacts close, hang the key on the reel again and, turning the crankshaft with light blows of your fist on the kickstarter, slowly bring the arrow on the flywheel closer to the mark on the crankcase. If the key falls when they match, everything was done correctly. If the arrow does not reach the mark, the ignition is early, and the breaker body needs to be turned slightly in the direction of the arrow on its cover. If the key falls after the marks coincide, turn the breaker in the opposite direction.

At first glance, the amount of work seems quite large. But in everyday use, all operations are not required, and besides, by adjusting the ignition once or twice, you will learn to do this in a matter of minutes, and this system will no longer cause you trouble.

Required Tools

Before you start adjusting the valves, you should prepare the necessary tools. First of all, you will need a set of keys. In practice, you will only need one, but it is better to have everything on hand.

The motorcycle valves are directly adjusted using feeler gauges. Depending on the motor model, different probes may be needed. On the M 72 Ural, a thickness of 0.1 mm will be required; for newer engines, for example, IMZ, it is better to use 0.05 mm.

In fact, these are very conditional indicators. There is a small tolerance during adjustment, but under operating conditions of the power unit this does not affect its performance.

You will need to stock up on a small container to catch the oil; it can sometimes spill. Also, a rag will not be superfluous; it can be used to clean the engine from dirt. Let's see how to properly perform this repair.