The non-contact ignition system (BSZ) 135.3734 is designed to work in the ignition system of
2-cylinder carburetor engines of Ural and Dnepr motorcycles of all modifications with a 12- volt electrical system, instead of the serial contact (PM302 breaker) and contactless ignition systems (sensor 17.3847, switch 47.3734).
The contactless ignition system is designed to improve the technical characteristics of the motorcycle by:
— improved startup in cold weather; — stability of engine operation due to a decrease in spark asynchronism and stability of the characteristics of the advance of the moment of spark formation over time; — reducing the toxicity of exhaust gases, fuel consumption and carbon deposits on spark plugs due to an increase in the inductive phase of the spark; — stable engine starting when the battery voltage drops to 6 V; — reducing the labor intensity of installation and maintenance of BSZ; - limiting the amount of current and the time it flows through the primary winding of the ignition coil to prevent it from overheating and discharging the battery.
The best spark discharge parameters are provided with coil 135.3705, specially designed for this system, however, the module is compatible with any other motorcycle ignition coils (B 204, B 201). The electronic control of the sparking moment used in BSZ ensures stable operation of the system in all normal modes of the motorcycle robot.
the ignition coil is heating up - a woman on Izh Planet 5 | Topic Author: Murlidhar
Guys, help, the ignition coil is heating up. What's the problem? The BPV is new, and I did the wiring directly and it still gets hot, although the wiring from the generator is old but normal.
Alexander (Arki) Since everything has changed and is normal, is it not the coil? try replacing it with another one, I think everything will work out!
Donat (Shaanana) first the USSR burned down and then planted a new one. it still gets warm, in the end I installed the VAZ and 1 damn it gets warm and it
Donat (Shaanana) candidate also changed
Alexander (Arki) try installing spare parts that are known to work, that is, remove them from a working motorcycle, put them on yours and check the coils for heating! By the way, the proverb about a woman was not invented in vain either!
Yuriy (Dariana) what gets very hot and interferes with driving?
Alexander (Arki) Apparently when it gets hot it burns your eggs! xD Donat Polkhovsky nothing personal
Donat (Shaanana) motorcycle like hell
Yuriy (Dariana) change the ignition system and the issue is settled.
Alexander (Arki) check the input voltage (through the diode) - I had a similar one in Minsk - instead of 12 it was 19 - the woman was soldered (similar to the Zhiguli one) and it jerked right while driving. if not, then it may be a turn coil (inside the bobbin itself) - you can check with an ohmmeter by comparing it with a known-good coil;
Dmitry (Orlinda) The coil will heat up, especially at low speeds. This is fine. You can clarify the size of the gap in the contacts; at a small gap it will heat up a little more due to the larger angle of the closed state of the contacts. But how Sasha Litvinenko intended 19 volts at “Minsk” is a big question, considering that at “Minsk” at the moment of sparking a capacitor charged to 150-200 volts is discharged onto the coil.
Yuriy (Dariana) you just need to put a resistor at 10 ohms and that’s it
Yuriy (Dariana) https://vkontakte.ru/album-7773974_126416977? s=1#/phot.. look, or is there such a resistor on your woman?
Dmitry (Orlinda) #12, Where to put the resistor? #13, this is a coil from Moskvich, what does it have to do with it?
Donat (Shaanana) there is an ordinary Izhevsk reel. Is this resistor sold separately?
Yuriy (Dariana) It should be there from the factory)) and it’s a native Izhevsk reel. For some reason, some wise men remove this resistor and connect it directly, while they think that a spark will be better
Modern replacement
This system has been considered outdated for almost half a century. Motorcycle owners often complain about oxidizing and burning contacts, the formation of an oil film, and the need to constantly clean and reconfigure the ignition system. Of course, inquisitive minds have already found a solution to this problem, so installing electronic ignition on the Ural is currently not something extraordinary.
Electronic ignition for the Ural motorcycle is now produced by several companies. The most common models are the SoveK microprocessor contactless ignition system, the Saruman ignition system, the Stary Oskol ignition system and the UKTUS-2 microprocessor ignition. Unfortunately, the last two systems are quite outdated, although they are still popular. In addition, there are a huge number of options for homemade systems. Many owners of motorcycles of this brand make their own ignition for the Ural. Electronic (or contactless) is superior in all respects to the old mechanical model, whose adherents remain only those who support the postulate “the older, the better.”
♛Everything according to IZ Planet 5♛ | Topic author: Vova
Why is the woman warming up? tell me more precisely what the reason is
Alexey (Marek) Look at the wiring somewhere, maybe it’s getting very hot, but in general it shouldn’t get too hot, of course it’s essentially a transformer
Vova (Manohar) I have 3 wires in total + and ground!
Alexey (Marek) Change it to another working one, if something with the wiring is heating up, contacts somewhere on the ignition switch or the lock itself, okay, at least they don’t burn like I did, I raised this topic somewhere in May, but nothing I didn’t recognize it, I checked all my electrics and changed the coils, about five of them, two of them just burned out and the others overheated worse than the cylinder and the engine simply stalled, in the end I gave up and assembled the BSZ and the coil, of course, from the eight, now I’ve forgotten everything ok and there’s no heating, etc.
Vova (Manohar) I know, in short, this way from Akum - to the mass a + to + the woman from the woman - to the fists this is Minus - that’s the result of a short circuit. Tell me what’s wrong and what’s missing
Vova (Manohar) And also from the woman + there is a wire to the generator relay on +
Mechanical or electronic
Initially, these motorcycles had mechanical ignition. Unlike BSZ, this option has low reliability. The reason is in the mechanical elements of the structure; they wear out over a certain mileage, which leads to regular failures. And you have to adjust the ignition on the Ural motorcycle much more often
The electronic ignition system on a motorcycle does not have such problems. There are practically no interacting elements here. Therefore, the service life is significantly longer. Also, thanks to improved spark formation, there are fewer problems with engine operation. The owner is also relieved of the need to regularly clean the contacts. All this leads to the massive spread of BSZ on this model.
Determining why the ignition coil heats up
The main function of the coil is to convert low voltage voltage, which comes from a generator or battery, into high voltage. There is a generation of high-voltage electrical pulses on the candles. The ignition coil connection diagram provides a certain operating mechanism: when the starter is turned on, thanks to the contact disk, an additional resistance is turned on, this leads to an increase in the current passing through the primary winding, and, as a result, the voltage of the secondary winding increases, which contributes to the reliable ignition of the working mixture.
Malfunctions of the ignition coil can be noticed by the following symptoms. First of all, if it has a high temperature when the engine is off. The cause of this symptom may be turning the key to the active position for a fairly long period with the engine turned off. The next alarming sign is a short circuit, when the engine does not start at all, resulting in a smell of burnt insulation and strong heating of the lock, as well as the starter. In this case, repair and replacement of the ignition coil is necessary.
Unstable operation of the car also helps to understand that diagnostics are urgently needed. It begins to twitch when driving at speeds exceeding 60 km/h, and during a long stop, for example in a traffic jam, the spark may disappear altogether, then the ignition coil should be checked as soon as possible.
System malfunctions
Malfunctions with this system in the D6 engine can be associated with completely different things. However, it is quite possible to carry out diagnostics and repairs on your own; you need to start any manipulations only after the ignition wire is disconnected from the output screw.
It’s worth starting to describe the malfunctions with the most common one. And soot appears on the bottom of the candle. Soot can be dry or oily - it depends on whether the fuel mixture is rich or lean and on the correct preparation of the mixture. If the mixture is too lean, the soot will be dry, but if too much oil has been added to the tank, the soot will be oily. In any case, the consequence of the appearance of soot will be the absence of a spark discharge, or it will be so weak that it will not be enough to ignite the mixture.
Next on the list is a possible spark plug insulator crack. As a result, the electrodes inside the insulator itself may short-circuit. These malfunctions lead to the candle becoming unusable.
How to check the ignition coil - basic methods
In principle, you can determine the cause yourself, since checking the functionality of the ignition coil is quite simple. To do this you need to remove it. Depending on the car model, you should look for it in the engine area, namely the cylinder block. In order not to harm the electrics, disconnect the negative cable from the battery and the connector on the coil. Next, you need to sketch out on paper exactly how it was installed and, of course, connected. The ones that interest you most are the high-voltage wires; their diagram is extremely important; after sketching it, remove their terminals from the coil.
All that remains is to unscrew four bolts and the part is removed. Then carry out a visual inspection for defects and chips; there should be none. Also clean its body from dirt, because it contributes to the occurrence of large voltage leaks. In order to check the bobbin for breaks, you need to know how to ring the ignition coil; for this you only need an ohmmeter (one of its terminals is connected to the winding input, the second to the output). First ring the primary and then the secondary windings. The resistance on the first should be much lower than on the second.
There is another way to check the ignition coil if the previous methods did not reveal any malfunctions. In this case, it is necessary to connect the primary winding of the bobbin to a DC source (12 V), connecting it to the buttons, they are designed for a current of 20 V. In parallel, connect a capacitor with the same capacitance as in the ignition system. A candle is connected to the second winding, and the source is quickly turned on several times. The resulting crackling indicates the presence of breakdowns. Thus, there is nothing difficult about how to check the serviceability of the ignition coil; the main thing is to monitor its condition, since any malfunctions can lead to very negative consequences. Repair consists of restoring the winding or completely replacing the part; it is inexpensive, fast and reliable.
Contactless system
Electronic ignition is also one of the types of systems on the D6 engine. Special connoisseurs of this technology decide to switch to it; this system works much more stable and provides better ignition and combustion of the working mixture in the engine cylinder. When talking about ignition, it is simply impossible not to mention this system.
The electronic system consists of two units working together. They are called energy and electronic switches. The first is installed on the base of the crankcase and consists of a core, along with which a charging coil is installed; the coil is made in such a way as to be able to work instead of the original breaker.
The Internet is filled with a lot of schemes on how to make such an ignition almost independently. This is not too difficult to do, but as a result you can get advantages in the form of 100% confidence in the reliability of the operation of both the control coil and the entire ignition as a whole. Finding a factory electronic ignition is quite problematic, since the manufacturer has not been operating for almost 20 years.
D6 ENGINE MAGNETO DEVICE
The magneto of the D6 engine differs from the magneto of the D5 engine mainly in the core and rotor of increased dimensions. The rotor diameter is 66.2 mm. Thanks to this, part of the electrical energy from the primary winding of the induction coil can be used to illuminate the path with the front headlight and power the rear light of a light moped. The primary winding of the induction coil is made of wire with a diameter of 0.59 mm and has 183 turns. The secondary winding has 8000 turns with a wire diameter of 0.07 mm. The rotor and cam are mounted on the crankshaft, secured against rotation by a key and a plate spring washer installed between the crankshaft journal and the rotor, and secured with a screw. The reliability of the magneto and the engine as a whole largely depends on the strong fastening of the rotor. Screw 3 must be screwed in completely, and the reliability of its fastening must be checked every 500 km. The breaker is attached to the core with two screws. The breaker bar is made of diamagnetic material. From the anvil screw there is a jumper connecting the primary winding of the induction coil with an output screw isolated from the crankcase, to which a wire from the electrical equipment system of the motorbike is connected. A protective rubber cap is placed on the output screw. The magneto of the D6 engine uses a BM-2 capacitor with a capacity of 0.22 μF, a breakdown voltage of 400 V. The rotor, induction coil, breaker and capacitor of the D6 engine are not interchangeable with similar parts of the D5 engine.
HIGH VOLTAGE WIRE ASSEMBLY
The high-voltage wire assembly consists of a high-voltage wire in which a contact spring is inserted into the cores on one side and a carbolite sleeve is screwed on, and a spark plug square is screwed on the other side. The spark plug bracket consists of a carbolite body, inside of which there is a contact device and suppressive carbon resistance. Suppressive resistance (6000-8000 Ohms) serves to reduce radio and television interference created by the ignition system of a running engine. A metal shielding cap is placed on the carbolite body of the spark plug angle of the D6 engine, which is in contact with the spark plug body, which further reduces the level of radio and television interference from a running engine. High voltage wires in the assembly of D4, D5, DB motors are completely interchangeable.
GLOW PLUG
The compressed working mixture in the cylinder is ignited by an electric spark generated between the electrodes of the spark plug. The glow plug consists of a steel body, a ceramic core with a central electrode, and a side electrode welded to the steel body. The lower part of the insulator is called the skirt. The ceramic core is rolled into the body, and the candle is one-piece. The gap between the spark plug electrodes is 0.4-0.6 mm. If the gap is larger, then the conditions for starting the engine worsen: a higher voltage is required in the induction coil, and this can lead to breakdown of the secondary coil. With a smaller gap between the electrodes of the spark plug, carbon deposits form. During engine operation, the spark plug is either heated during combustion of the working mixture in the cylinder, or cooled by a fresh combustible mixture during purging. However, to ensure proper operation, the average temperature of the lower part of the insulator - the skirt - must be within the so-called self-cleaning temperature. (550-700°C), at which the oil falling on the skirt burns without the formation of soot. At a temperature below this, the oil falling on the insulator will burn slowly, forming carbon deposits (coke formation), which, being electrically conductive, can in turn cause misfires, and if the layer is thick, stop sparking. At temperatures above 750-800° C, the working mixture will ignite not from a spark, but from a hot candle, i.e. glow ignition will occur. The engine will not develop full power, and its operation will be accompanied by knocking. When the engine is operating properly, the spark plug skirt should be brown. If the spark plug overheats, the skirt will have a light gray color with traces of melting. The D4, D5 and D6 engines use the A11U spark plug. The letter A indicates the thread diameter of the screw part (14 mm), the number 11 indicates the length of the skirt in millimeters, the letter U is the name of the insulator material - uralite. The CH-24 and CH-200 candles found on sale are modifications of the A11U spark plug and are suitable for work. In the absence of these candles, you can use other candles: A8U, A7, 5U, A6US, SI-12, SI-12RT. In this case, there may be increased carbon formation on the spark plug skirt and electrodes.
