Foreign analogues of IZH-2126
The first one that comes to mind is the Opel Kadett 5-door (E) (Germany 1984–91). On the one hand, it is not entirely correct to compare the Opel Kadett 5-door (E) and the Orbit, since the German car is a representative of the fifth (!) generation of models of the same name, the post-war family of which appeared in 1962, that is, German designers improved a ready-made, proven platform , and IZH-2126 was designed from scratch.
On the other hand, IzhAvto engineers had to use components and assemblies of the Moskvich, the mechanics of which were “rooted” in the same Opel Kadett, albeit pre-war. Thus, from the point of view of genealogy, the Opel Kadett E and the Orbita are distantly related. Production of 3- and 5-door hatchbacks of the Opel Kadett generation “E” began in September 1984. There was nothing revolutionary about this car.
The front-wheel drive layout is not very impressive, but the range of engines is quite sufficient: to the 1.2-, 1.3- and 1.6-liter engines that the “E” family inherited from the previous model, a 75-horsepower modification 1 was added, 3-liter 13S engine. Modern for those years, but discreet “sporty” appearance. The cabin accommodates four adults in sufficient comfort... What is perhaps outstanding is the size of the hatchback trunk: 1000 liters. with the rear seat folded down. And, nevertheless, a successful combination of standard solutions, practicality and endurance, modernity and, most importantly, timeliness allowed the Opel Kadett E to win the honorary title of “European Car of the Year” in 1985.
It remains with sadness to remember that the state tests of the Orbit prototypes of the O 4 series were successfully completed in 1984. But since the beginning of the nineties, a lot had to change in the domestic auto industry, starting with a focus on the material stratification of Russian consumers. The IZH-2126 variant was no longer considered as a car for moderately prosperous citizens; its main consumer lived somewhere in Malakhovka, and the available work in Malakhovka made it possible to purchase only a domestic economy class car. And it is for this reason that bringing the “Oda” variants to foreign analogues (that is, increasing its final cost) meant losing an accessible mass consumer with negligible chances of attracting the interest of the middle consumer class, which had already begun to successfully and freely purchase much more comfortable and reliable foreign cars.
Planet Suspension [#2] Rear shock absorbers. Disassembly, troubleshooting, assembly.
Hi all!
After quite a long break, I found time to write a short article, guys, I don’t have time to write and post everything at once, work on the motorcycle began to boil, like the mouth of a volcano, so, excuse me :) Everything will be fine, gentlemen, but not right away.
The topic of today's article will be the rear suspension of the Planet 5 , I will tell you in words how to disassemble and reassemble the Planet shock absorbers without any problems, etc., etc., let's go.
To begin with, I’ll say right away that there are no photos of disassembling the shock absorbers, they should have been there, but the phone died from the cold, and that’s all... I was too lazy to run for a charger, but believe me, everything is easy there. Let's begin.
Disassembly
I was engaged in troubleshooting in its full form, that is, I changed everything, even the silent blocks, the spring, the plastic cup, and the reservoir cup itself remained from the original one, but you need to start with the very disassembly of the shock absorber, then you will understand why.
We take our shock absorber, and insert a powerful screwdriver into the upper ear, there are two plastic cups on the shock absorber, they hold the spring, we put something suitable under the screwdriver, and press it, with another screwdriver, we pick out the other shock absorber cup. In the same way, but without one cup, pressing on the spring itself from above, remove the second cup. All. The spring has been removed. remove the plastic protective cup and the thin, thin washer underneath it. We take the key, I think it’s 19, and unscrew the rod, then drain the oil from the shock absorber, if you have it, congratulations. Now we listen carefully, take a needle, and carefully pick out the upper rubber ring, it will prevent us from pulling out the entire rod, we pick it out, remove it and pull the rod by the ear with all our might. The rod was pulled out. Behind it we take out the glass of the rod, from the glass of the shock absorber itself, like there are a lot of glasses, right? :) Actually, no) If you do disassembly, you will understand everything yourself) Now my advice. I advise you to change the rod assembly, it’s more reliable, the seals that are sold in stores are all Chinese bullshit, which leaks from the first kilometers, so do better as I told you, especially since the rods are sold factory, you just need to know where to get them, there will be a separate article about this, write in a personal message, I’ll tell you. That’s all, one thing, under the spring there will also be the same thin washer, don’t lose it.
Next we move on to silent blocks.
We take our shock absorber, or rather its glass and a new rod, a head for 17 (or 19 I don’t remember exactly, the main thing is that its diameter is exactly the same as the silent block, maybe a little smaller), as well as a head for 21 (or 22 or 23, again I don’t remember exactly, the main thing is that the entire silent block fits in the head in its entire size), then we take the yews and insert our sandwich into them, place the head at 17 on the left, then the ear of the shock absorber cup and on the right the head at 21 and start press, thereby squeezing the silent block into the head at 21, with the head at 17. We do the same with the other ear if necessary.
assembly
Let's start assembling. We take all our parts and wash them first. Basically, if it’s winter outside, wash it under the tap, nothing will happen if you dry everything thoroughly and wipe it off. Now we take the glass of the rod and insert it into the glass of the shock itself.
Next, take 0.075 ml of oil, in my case it is Motul FORK OIL 10W (If you can buy a more viscous oil, for example 15W, take it, it will be better, because it is quite liquid) and pour it INTO THE GLASS OF THE STOCK.
Next, insert the rod itself and tighten it.
All. The hydraulic part is assembled. Now let's replace the silent block. In exactly the same way as we disassembled, only now after the head at 17 there is a new silent block, then the ear where it will be inserted, and then the head at 21. Before pressing in, I recommend lubricating the outer surface of the silent block with oil.
Well, then everything is in the reverse order, everything is simple, we put a small washer on the shock absorber glass, then a spring, a plastic protective cup in it, we put a washer under the glass, the same thin one, and again, pressing with a screwdriver on the spring through the upper ear of the shock absorber, we try insert plates. All. Shock absorber assembled)
I understand that the article turned out to be rather watery, and it’s all my fault, which didn’t allow me to go get some exercises :( Don’t scold me too much, I’ll try not to do that again :)
Good luck to all! Bye!
PS: Photo of the new and old rod (new on the left), as you can see there is not much difference in the rubber seals, and also on the new rod there is a rebound spring, which mine did not have, it is a necessary thing, there will be fewer breakdowns with it, and the work should be better.
Tags
- Planet 5
- Planet
- Izh Planet 5
- Izh luxury
- luxury
- Izh Planet 5 Lux
- Orion
Additional Description
Shock absorber IZH-2126 rear (2126-2915006-07)
- Connecting dimensions, mm:
- Maximum: 617
- Minimum: 367
- Piston stroke, mm: 250
- Weight, kg: 1.8
- Nominal forces at piston speed 0.31 m/s, N (kgf):
- compression stroke: 441 (45)
- rebound stroke: 1323 (135)
- Suspension: rear
- Version: hydraulic
- Requirements: TU 37.370.022-2002
Information used: JSC "SAAZ"
Shock absorbers IZH and the like - design and repair.
IZh shock absorbers are almost no different in design from the rear shock absorbers of other domestic motorcycles, with the exception of some small details, and therefore this article will also be useful to owners of motorcycles of other domestic models. And this article will describe in detail the design, maintenance and repair of Izhevsk rear shock absorbers, and I hope this article will be useful to beginners who own not only an IZH motorcycle, but also any other domestic bike.
The main advantage of shock absorbers from Izhevsk or other domestic motorcycles is that these shock absorbers have a collapsible design, which means they are repairable and, with proper care, almost eternal. And new types of shock absorbers (for example, gas) which many have begun to install on IZhi, Java, and other domestic motorcycle equipment, although they are more advanced and comfortable shock absorbers, they are not collapsible (most models), and therefore are not repairable.
As was said just above, many of the more modern gas shock absorbers do not have a collapsible design, which means repairs will not be so easy, and sometimes even impossible, for beginners. In addition, most gas shock absorbers are produced in China and the quality (and resource) of many products leaves much to be desired.
And therefore, I think the good old models of Soviet-made motorcycle shock absorbers will remain relevant for a long time and will serve faithfully for many years, of course, with timely maintenance and repairs. But before moving on to repairing Izh shock absorbers and other similar domestic products, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with their structure, since knowledge of the device will make maintenance and repair much easier even for a beginner.
Well, anyone who knows how a domestic collapsible motorcycle spring-hydraulic shock absorber works can simply skip a few steps by scrolling the mouse wheel and go directly below to disassembly and repair.
Applicability
| Brand | Model | Name according to auto catalog | Drawing |
| IZH | IZH 2126 | Shock absorber | Chassis / Suspension |
| IZH | IZH 2126 | Shock absorber | Chassis / Suspension |
| IZH | IZH 2126 | Non-separable shock absorber | Chassis / Suspension |
The parts data presented on this page is for informational purposes only.
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Shock absorbers IZH - disassembly.
In order to disassemble the shock absorbers, of course, they must first be removed from the motorcycle. There is nothing complicated about this, we install the motorcycle on the central stand, or a motorcycle stand and unscrew the nuts on the frame and pendulum, remove the shock absorbers from the studs welded to the frame and pendulum.
Next, to disassemble the shock absorbers, you will need to compress the springs and remove the two support half rings. To compress shock absorber springs, there are special devices, or a homemade device, described in this article.
But having an assistant, you can remove the support half rings by inserting two corners between the upper coils of the springs, resting the shock absorber itself on the floor and then pressing the corners down and compressing the spring. Well, at this time the assistant, using tweezers or pliers with narrow noses, removes the persistent half rings.
Having removed the half rings, the spring from the shock absorber, and the movable cam of the spring compression regulator, then you need to clamp the shock absorber in a vice, by the lower body of the silent block (we use cardboard spacers for the jaws of the vice) and then, using a 27 key, unscrew (see the figure above) the upper nut 7 of the body stuffing box assembly (on some shock absorbers a special wrench is required).
Now you should drain the oil and carefully (since there are still oil residues) pull the shock absorber piston outward by the rod.
Price list
- Spare parts for Volzhanki cars
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Auto catalog
- Cars
- VAZ
- UAZ
- GAS
- AZLK
- IZH
- ZAZ
- ZIL
- LuAZ
- RAF
- BYD
- Chevrolet
- Daewoo
- Geely
- Great Wall
- Hyundai
- Lifan
- Tata
Work of shock absorbers Izh, Ural, Dnepr and the like.
The performance (for damping vibrations of the rear suspension) of the spring-hydraulic shock absorber of domestic motorcycles (and cars) is based on the use of hydraulic resistance, which occurs when hydraulic fluid (oil) from one cylinder cavity to another through special holes, which are closed at the right time by compression valves and returns.
When operating a motorcycle and when the rear wheel hits some obstacle (road unevenness), the motorcycle’s pendulum moves upward along with the shock absorber, and from this the rod, together with the piston fixed below, moves down in the hydraulic cylinder and at the same time a stroke occurs (see Fig. 4 a) compression. In this case, hydraulic fluid pressure is created under piston 15 and this fluid (shock absorber oil), overcoming the elastic force of spring 6, flows through the bypass valve into the cavity above the piston.
Well, at the same time, part of the liquid, bending the inner edges of the compression valve disks 11, flows into the main reservoir 2 (that is, into the shock absorber body 2). Well, if the compression stroke is carried out quite smoothly, then the hydraulic fluid pressure will no longer be enough to bend the inner edge of the disks 11 and this means that the liquid in the reservoir 2 of the housing will flow only through a special cutout of the upper throttle disk 11 of the compression valve.
After passing the unevenness, the rear wheel and the pendulum of the motorcycle are already returning back (that is, moving down) and the piston and rod are already moving upward and at the same time a recoil stroke occurs (it is shown in Figure 4 b) and at the same time the pressure of the hydraulic fluid (above the piston) is bent outer edges of discs 16 of the recoil valve. In this case, the liquid already flows into the cylinder cavity under the piston.
