Today, not only an experienced adult, but also a beginning child rider can ride an ATV. For little fidgets and lovers of active leisure on wheels, a huge number of models are offered - from small and compact to quite “adult” and powerful, with large engines and impressive parameters. Therefore, buying an ATV for children is not a problem.
The design of such models exactly replicates full-fledged ATVs for large ones. Moreover, a children's quad also requires periodic maintenance and replacement of consumables. And breakdowns on such four-wheelers may not be “childish” or “toy-like” at all. We'll tell you what to do if there is no spark on your child's ATV.
Motorcycles Ural and Dnepr
I have ELECTRONIC IGNITION! After the fall, the diesel engine stopped starting! He really stood in traffic police on the street for 2 weeks! I have electronic ignition! no spark! the light rang from the battery to the generator! We changed the coil! It lights up everywhere it needs to! but there is no spark! what to do? Anyone who lives in Moscow and understands electrics can help (it won’t rust after me) write to [email protected] ! The motorcycle is in Mitino!
[Edited 7/22/2003 graff]
[Edited 7/22/2003 graff]
Maybe change the spark plugs first? ;-))
connect the positive wire directly to the coil. (the wire on the left from the ignition cover next to the spark plug) turn on the ground so that the minus goes along the frame. try to kick. and watch the spark on the candles. if there is no spark: 1-check the battery 2-the coil could be damp (throw it out and put another one in) 3-check the gap on the cams (0.6 mm in the open position) 4-change the capacitor (shiny cylinder in the ignition)
5- if all else fails, shoot yourself or buy a Japanese one (because the Urals will break down all the time and without knowledge of how to repair it, it’s better to hang yourself right away so as not to suffer)
Having received a spark, try to connect everything as it was. if the spark is gone 1 - check the fuses 2 - check the operation of the ignition switch (maybe it’s broken) 3 - check the stop engine remote control (right)
4 - if it doesn’t help, rip out all the wiring and assemble it yourself according to the diagram.
I’ll complement Boxer: with a 5 W 12V lamp, first start checking the coil.. turn on the ignition, engine.. look at the breaker contacts, they are open - connect the lamp between them, the lamp should light up.. well, follow the wiring in sequence if it doesn’t light up. if there is voltage on the coil, look at the coil itself, the gaps, the conduit
What the fuck contacts. The guy writes in Russian - electronic ignition.
What kind of ignition is Stary Oskol, Tyumen or Uktus??? Turn on the ignition, check with the light so that the plus goes to the coil and the switch. If it comes, first remove and ring the coil or temporarily switch to another, working one. If it doesn’t help, then the switch has received 3.14 zdets (or the Hall sensor).
Lost spark at BSZ
Captain1977 Mon, 04/28/2008 — 08:38
Udavski, in fact, neither the ignition nor the coil should have died. More likely, when you shorted one of the wires to ground, either the wiring or the fuse in this circuit burned out. I had the same crap yesterday: I pushed the coil coil into its regular place, so the leads of the low winding rested on the crankcase, and after a short drive, obviously, the whole thing overheated, the insulation was pierced, the + 12V wiring from the ignition burned out, and everything died. I took the coil out, reconnected it - everything is OK. In your case: 1. Check the coil. Disconnect her from the switch, stick candles, and run wires from a guaranteed charged battery along her legs. If OK, move on to
2. Everything is the same, only with a switch, respectively, instead of striking, we flash a screwdriver in front of the Hall - like imitating a curtain. If everything is OK, we look for a burnt wire or fuse, or a dead battery. Keep in mind one more thing: if something shorted out somewhere and it burned out, then the insulation of what was nearby, that is, other wires in the harness, could melt.
maxuit, Quote: then most likely the khan to the switch I don’t agree even once! If the switch is dead, then it constantly puts pressure on the coil, then the on-board network sag, but not by the same amount! This means we have a ground fault along the path from the switch to the ignition, or somewhere else, or a dead battery. And the most unlikely option - the gasket between the transducer and the switch body is broken, is a hundred times less common than an honest screw. Another option is that the switch (or rather, the power transducer in it) is broken, then turn it on, don’t turn it on, there will be no reaction. Even if we assume that there was a short circuit in the power supply in the switch, the traces there are thin - they will evaporate in half a second, and that’s all. And in order to guarantee that the ignition/switch will burn out, you must either confuse the plus and minus (which is unrealistic with simple fiddling), or apply a very large voltage to a couple of batteries in series.
No spark causes and solutions
When there is no spark after an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine, or the spark on the spark plugs suddenly disappears and, of course, the engine does not start, then some novice drivers do not know where to start to get rid of this malfunction. This article will describe the reasons why a spark may be absent or appear every once in a while, and will also discuss methods for simple diagnostics (troubleshooting) of the ignition system.
I have already written about repairing the ignition system and you can read about it in detail in this article. It describes in detail the testing of all components of the ignition system, both the modern contactless electronic and the more ancient contact ignition system.
But this article will describe when there is no spark, the reasons and specific actions to ensure that a spark appears on the spark plugs.
No spark causes and solutions.
- 1. Let's start with the simplest and gradually move on to more complex reasons. The first and most common reason is a discharged battery. Of course, this can be determined without a voltmeter, since a discharged battery will not crank the crankshaft with an electric starter of a car or motorcycle. But many drivers, after an unsuccessful attempt to start with an electric starter, try to start the car with a pusher, hoping that the energy of the discharged battery is not enough for the starter, but is quite enough for the ignition system. In most cases this is not the case.
And if the energy of a discharged battery for a contactless electronic ignition system in most cases is enough to cause a spark and a successful attempt to start the engine from the pusher, then for an older contact system, the energy of a discharged battery will not be enough to cause a spark (especially if the contacts are burnt, and this happens often) . Therefore, in order not to guess and not waste human energy on pushing the car, we simply bring the battery back to normal using a charger. Beginners can read how to properly charge the battery here.
- 2. Another simple and banal reason why there will be no spark on the spark plug is simply a failure of the spark plug or it is simply necessary to clean the spark plug (read how to check and properly clean the spark plug here). Of course, the spark plugs don’t all fail at once, and if one of the spark plugs fails, the four-cylinder engine will simply start to stall. Therefore, this reason is only suitable for single-cylinder motorcycle engines, but still it was worth mentioning, let’s move on.
But before checking and cleaning a non-working spark plug, try swapping the high-voltage wires and if a spark appears on a previously non-working spark plug, then the reason is not in the spark plug, but in the spark plug wire, which should be replaced.
- 3. The third reason for the loss of spark, which often happens on used cars and motorcycles, is there is no voltage at the ignition coil terminal after turning the ignition key. Using a tester set to voltmeter mode (measuring direct current), you should measure at the coil terminals whether a voltage of 12 - 13 volts is supplied to terminal B+ of the coil (see figure) when the ignition switch is turned on. If it doesn’t, then you should check the integrity of the wire going from the lock to the coil (or from the mounting block to the coil - GP wire in Figure 1), and also check whether the terminals are oxidized.
- 4. If voltage comes to terminal B+ of the coil after turning on the ignition switch, but there is still no spark, then you should check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of the terminals of the wire coming to the distributor from the coil (the black wire marked with the letter C in Figure 1) and in general check all the wires and terminals of the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system (check the wires marked with the letters G and K, as well as GC and K. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the operation of the ignition switch itself 8 and the ignition switch relay 7, which rarely fail but still fail. And of course, we check the integrity of the fuses responsible for these circuits (in general, I advise beginners to check all the fuses at the very beginning).
- 5. On a contactless electronic ignition system, use a voltmeter to check the presence of a voltage of 12 volts (after turning on the ignition switch) at terminal B+ of the ignition coil, as well as at terminal 4 of the switch and check the integrity of the wire marked with the letters GP in Figure 2. We also check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of terminals K of the coil and terminal 1 on the switch and the integrity of the control wire of the gearbox connecting them. We also check the integrity and reliability of the connection (cleanliness of the terminals) with the car body of the black wire marked with the letter H in Figure 2, which connects terminal 2 of the switch to the car body. What can happen on the car due to poor contact of a lot of other wires, I advise you to read this useful article.
- 6. Next, we check the integrity of the wires and the reliability of the connection between terminals 3, 5, and 6 of the switch and the Hall sensor (wires marked with the letters Z, P and BC in Figure 2). If the terminals are securely connected and not oxidized, and the wires are intact, then we check the functionality of the hall sensor itself (read how to do this here). Well, you can find out how to check the functionality of the switch and ignition coil by clicking on the very first link at the beginning of this article, in the article about repairing the ignition system).
- 7. Having checked the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system, as described above, if everything is in order and a spark has not appeared, then we check the high-voltage part of the system. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then first of all we check the central high-voltage wire G (see Fig. 2), connecting ignition coil 5 and distributor 1. The tips of this wire must be clean and must be tightly inserted into the mounting sockets of the distributor cover and the ignition coil . We check the wire itself for integrity using a tester set to ohmmeter mode.
- 8. If there is no spark on only one spark plug out of four, then we check the high-voltage wire of the non-working spark plug (you can swap the wires, as described above, or check the wire of the non-working spark plug using a tester). Also, having removed the distributor cover, we check it for integrity (there should not be even the slightest cracks) and the cleanliness of all contacts inside and outside the cover, and the integrity of the carbon (graphite cylinder) in the center of the cover.
Where else to look for the reason for the lack of spark?
So, the spark has disappeared on the children's ATV, and you have ruled out faulty wiring or the ignition system. What to do next? The next diagnostic objects will be the fuel supply system. The fact is that with proper and timely fuel supply, even a weak or irregular spark can ensure normal engine operation. And since there is no spark on the ATV and it is motionless, it means that you need to check what kind of fuel is coming from the fuel tank to the combustion chamber. You can find out more about the gasoline recommended for a quadric from the salon consultants https://dvako.com.ua.
For this:
- clean the filters - both the fuel supply and the air supply;
- check the integrity of the hoses and tubes through which the fuel mixture is supplied;
- make sure that the carburetor vent is open, and also that the seal in the carburetor itself is not broken;
- you need to set the correct position of the needle that regulates the fuel supply.
Inspecting and troubleshooting the entire fuel system will help resolve the problem. And in the future, change the spark plugs on time, clean the filter and fill the gas tank with only good fuel. And your child will always be able to ride a fast and maneuverable ATV “with a breeze”! And you won’t remember such a problem as the loss of spark on a child’s ATV.
Why the Ural motorcycle does not start - compression problems
Most often, the compression on a Ural motorcycle is too low. It does not pump gasoline into the cylinder, so the mixture does not ignite. There are many reasons for leaks:
- — Air comes out through the valve.
- — Air escapes through the gasket.
- — The air escapes through the rings.
It passes through the gasket - pour water on the ribs and there will be bubbles there. In this case, simply replace the gaskets with Ural. If not, take a syringe of engine oil, pour it into the cylinder, using a special agent. We plug it with our finger. Has the compression improved? This means that the answer to the question of why the Ural motorcycle does not start well must be looked for in the rings.
If not, unscrew the lid, first placing a lining under it. Notice that the valve is tightened, because the rod is pushed out a little, and they are not level. The one that is higher is clamped. To adjust the gap, you need to relax the valves both right and left. Gently press the valve with your foot. The valves are relaxed.
Check the gaps with feeler gauges. Find 0.05 mm and insert where the rocker arm connects to the valve. If it doesn't hold, the gap is too big. Let's look at the next one. Unscrew the bolts and take the dipstick. We clamp it between the valve and the rocker arm and tighten it slightly so that it holds the dipstick. Fix the bolt and tighten the nut.
Leave it to mechanics or install electronics
Perhaps not all older motorcycle models are running. The Ural motorcycle sits and rusts in my grandfather’s barn because it won’t start. The wheels are spinning, the engine is not jammed. Maybe the spark goes into the ground, as they say. In short, you need to look at the spark generation system. But even a working motorcycle, with a contact ignition system, causes unexpected and unpleasant problems for its owner:
- won't start when you really need it;
- with new oil rings in the engine, the spark plugs become covered with soot;
- there is no required engine power when driving with maximum load;
- the maximum speed is not reached;
- The battery is slightly discharged and the engine does not start.
The contact ignition system creates a lot of problems, especially when the moving parts in it have already worn out, backlash has appeared, and the geometry of the elements has changed.
The solution is simple - all cam ignition is thrown out, a modern electronic non-contact type spark generation system is installed. You will no longer have to deal with the thankless task of cleaning contacts and endlessly adjusting the gaps in the breaker. All this is possible thanks to the simple, but quite reliable design of the motorcycle. For example, it is quite easy to set the thermal gap and adjust the valves in the Urals with your own hands, using only your own tools from the garage. This way you will gain valuable experience and save money on visiting the workshop.
Common causes of malfunction
If a children's gasoline ATV does not start or starts and stalls, this may be due to improper operation of the four-wheeler. Frequent breakdowns in this case are:
- breakdown in the fuel supply system;
- the switch has failed;
- starter is broken;
- the battery does not hold a charge;
- problems in the ignition system.
To find out why a children's gasoline ATV does not start, equipment with a battery needs to start by checking the level of gasoline, oil, and refrigerant. If it is an electric ATV, you need to check the battery performance. If problems appear immediately after changing the engine oil or other fluids, they need to be drained and the system flushed. Perhaps the composition was of poor quality or unsuitable.
Does not start. What to do?
It depends on what the symptoms are and whether they exist.