For any car, regardless of the power system used, for normal operation three conditions must be met: the serviceability of the mechanical part, the correct composition of the mixture and the timely supply of the ignition spark or fuel injection. The mechanics rarely react to heat or cold, but mixture formation and ignition may be disrupted.
Does not work at high speeds, does not develop full power
Hi all.
I recently bought myself an M 67-36, nothing great, it drove properly. Last winter I laid it up, and until now I haven’t touched it. I started it up, it works great at idle, but as soon as I start to spin it up, there are interruptions. lumbago. It refuses to turn any further. I started to think what the reason was, the carbs, even if they wanted to, would not be able to ruin the work, well, there would be rare shooting, it might stall at idle, it would get hot, but it would still turn. Suspicion of the lighter, waved the candles, the improvements were not very visible, spun them ahead of the curve according to the book, took a light bulb, a wire, one end to ground, the other to the wire of the burner, mark P3 on the flywheel, manually pulled out such crap things, I forgot what they are called, the springs are there, In general, I turned the displacer all the way back (in general, such a perversion is new to me, on my previous IMZ 8-103-10 there was a newer breaker, there was no need to install anything, just turn it, the cams opened, the light went out. That’s it) I twisted the body and caught it I recorded the ignition timing, everything seems to be normal, it still starts with half a kick, no problems. but it still doesn't turn. So what could be the problem? Capacitor? or Coil? Something might be missing. And another question, in general, on the IMZ 8-103-10 the thermal clearance of the valves is 0.05 mm, is it the same on the M 67-36? There was also a popandos with carbs, as I bought it, it means I’m skating, but I see the engine doesn’t go more than 80, and the acceleration is rotten, the carbs are worn out (K-68 are installed), the needles were lowered to the very bottom (I immediately asked the question, what for?), I raised it to the middle , I had to adjust the mixture again, of course, I did it with a device (instead of a candle you screw it in and look at the flame), it seemed to start driving normally. Today I changed the air conditioner and plugged in NGK spark plugs and it worked. A new question has arisen: why does this green monster kill candles so quickly?
Will, by raising the needles, you enriched the mixture at medium operating modes. If the spark plugs start to clog, but the XX is adjusted normally, lower the needles of the screws by 1 notch. If it doesn’t help, leave it back as it was.
I could sneeze, shoot and not drive due to gasoline that was 1.5 years old, due to clogged gasoline supply channels. especially in the carb. After such storage, it is recommended that the old gasoline, or more precisely, what was once called it, be drained, washed out the tank and tap, and filled with fresh gasoline. Drain, of course, not through the carbs
