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Quite often, motorcyclists encounter this problem: the steering wheel bends after a fall. Some fans of driving with the breeze, as well as auto mechanic specialists, believe that it is impossible to properly align the part on their own; other drivers are of the opposite opinion. The article discusses whether it is possible to solve a similar problem on your own.
- Is it possible to bend the handlebars of a motorcycle?
- How to straighten the steering wheel yourself Video: Straightening the steering wheel after a fall
- What could be the consequences?
How can you turn the steering wheel?
First of all, keep in mind that in many cases the handlebars are not actually twisted and therefore there is no need to straighten them. In some cases, this feeling is simply a psychological illusion. To be sure, walk a meter, turn the steering wheel to the left and measure the distance between the tank and the end of the left handlebar. Do the same with the right end of the steering wheel, turning it to the right. Then compare the 2 measurements. If the two numbers have the same value, then your steering wheel is not twisted, otherwise it will have to be straightened. There are various factors that could cause the steering wheel to become misaligned. For example, you should pay attention to the wear and tear on the car. After all, after several kilometers and several years of operation, various parts begin to fail. But the most famous reason is, of course, an accident. If your motorcycle collides with an object while driving at high speed, the force of the impact can easily damage vehicle parts such as the handlebars. But then, can a bent steering wheel be repaired or does it need to be replaced?
Is it better to go to a service station?
Naturally, if damage to the steering occurs, it is better to turn to professionals. As already mentioned, you should try to fix the problem yourself only if the steering wheel is bent. But quite often this damage is accompanied by deformation of the feathers or traverses, sometimes both.
In such a situation, it is more advisable to trust the experts who deal with such breakdowns professionally. The point is not whether you can eliminate the deformation yourself, but the fact that such damage requires the highest quality solution. The steering mechanism is the most important system of any vehicle, not to mention a motorcycle - after all, when driving a two-wheeled vehicle, the slightest mistake can cost your life. In addition, incompetent intervention may lead to the fact that it will no longer be possible to correct the deformation and you will have to buy a new part.
What to do with a bent steering wheel?
Before you do anything, you should check the nature of this rotation. Indeed, in some cases the steering wheel is not twisted, but simply moved at the level of the mounting brackets. If so, straighten it and return the steering wheel to its working position before tightening everything. If you are sure that the twist is on the steering wheel, you can try to straighten it. Start by securing your motorcycle by placing it on a center stand, a workshop stand, or strapping it to a tree or other sturdy structure. You may also want to have someone help you keep the motorcycle upright, such as by sitting on it. Keep the handlebars straight and perpendicular to the frame of the beast. Measure the distance between the left trigger guard and the frame, and then the right trigger guard. We recommend loosening the triple clamp pinch bolts slightly. But you shouldn't unscrew them completely. The principle is to leave some space for the guide to stand. Then place a block or feet under the wheel, then slightly straighten the steering wheel with your hands. After a few tries, your steering wheel should be straight again. If it is too hard, you can heat it a little with a torch. However, this technique will ruin your painting.
Motorcycle handlebars on Amazon
Experience using a BMW F650 motorcycle (F650GS, F650ST, F650CS)
BMW F650ST. The most invaluable advantage of this motorcycle is its simplicity. Almost everything can be fixed “on your knees”. The use of two carburetors and two spark plugs per cylinder does not significantly complicate its design, but increases reliability due to overlapping systems. In all other respects, it is as simple as three kopecks - chassis, engine, electronics.
This is one of the most economical motorcycles of this capacity - even if you puke on the ground in second gear at full throttle, the consumption will not exceed 4.7 liters. The tank is enough for at least 350 km. A very large reserve reserve - for 70-100 km of economical travel. Bezin is 92nd, that is, there will be no problems with fuel anywhere in the world. You can drive the 95, but I didn’t notice any significant improvements in engine performance. The 76 is difficult to digest, starts poorly, pulls poorly and vibrates a lot, but still goes. Oil consumption - for me personally it was about one hundred grams of Motul per 10,000 km. Consumption, again, depends on the brand of oil - automotive semi-synthetic Total 15W50 is not consumed at all during the period between changes (10,000 km). By the way, the engine works noticeably better on semi-synthetic automobiles.
The air filter is made of ordinary fine oiled foam rubber, hidden under the sidewalls in a place hard to reach for dirt and water, and does not get splashed when moving along the hub in water. In almost any conditions, it can be replaced with anything, even an oiled rag or women's tights.
The clutch is mechanical, on a cable, adjustable with a wheel located near the handle - very convenient.
The light is beyond praise, it can be adjusted in a minute using a thumbwheel under the fairing. It is better to immediately install a high-brightness lamp, such as a standard-power Philips Vision.
The tank is plastic, that is, it will never become clogged due to rust, and if damaged, it can be easily soldered with a soldering iron or a hot nail without degassing, even in camping conditions.
There is no fuel pump, which means it will never clog or break.
A sufficiently powerful generator (alternator) - even at idle, the battery will not discharge when the fan is running and the high beams are on.
When idling for a long time, the engine does not overheat.
The motorcycle has a very quiet exhaust - you don’t get tired of the noise when riding for a long time at a speed of 120-130 km/h.
The rear shock absorber is very reliable. Adjustable with a thumbwheel near the engine. The ass of the motorcycle can be loaded like Sidorov's goat.
The fork is moderately stiff, despite the small stroke compared to rally enduro ones, and in 18 thousand of operation it has never broken through. The fork seals are not leaking, I think that at least one more season I don’t have to look at them. It’s better to immediately put the corrugations on the fork, which fit perfectly from the ZiD “Owl”.
As for driving performance: the dynamics are very decent, allowing you to keep up with the “big” BMW 1150 GS in traffic. The motorcycle easily gets into the spark plug from the gas, which, thanks to the “dry” sump, has no consequences for the engine. When you fall, there is also no oil starvation.
The chassis is simply ideal and will not yield to any “serious” endura bike - the bike holds the road perfectly and “forgives” getting into asphalt holes at speed, which would inevitably destroy the alloy wheel. On an unbroken dirt road you can maintain a stable speed of “over a hundred”; on a wet, broken road – about 70 km/h. At least on the dirt road, of the three motorcycles (Yamaha XT-600, Yamaha TDM), the BMW was the fastest. It’s better not to get into outright shit - the bike, if anything, is quite heavy, but on “evil” tires it will go anywhere. Unlike the GS, it has a low saddle, and the saddle is so comfortable that the third point does not irritate or hurt. You will appreciate its "lowness" if you drive on gravel or on a muddy clay dirt road when you have to "beat" with your feet. It steers very easily, it’s just as easy to get to the footrests, and in general it behaves very predictably, even under heavy overload, when the center of gravity shifts up and back, and this is very important for traveling.
Here are the weak points of this motorcycle that I noticed:
If you shift into high gear too early, the engine makes a roar, very reminiscent of the sound made by a connecting rod when the bearing is destroyed, and it seems that the motorcycle will immediately fall apart, but do not be alarmed ahead of time - this is the normal operation of a single-cylinder Rotax engine, the gears are just very “short”. What do you want from a single-cylinder 650 cc motorcycle with a KAMAZ-sized piston? At first I was also scared and turned to my friends who had the same motorcycle - they smiled and said: “Get used to it, it’s a BMW.” The engine itself is quite noisy (the sound at idle is reminiscent of a small helicopter), so it requires the use of high-viscosity oil - the manufacturer recommends 20W-40, however, it is not always possible to get such motorcycle semi-synthetics. The engine also clearly does not like Motul - after nine thousand kilometers the oil became completely black and more deposits appeared on the magnetic drain plug than usual and the gearbox began to work intermittently at the fifth thousand - this defect immediately disappeared after replacing it with Total 15w-50 automotive semi-synthetic .
Carburetors are the weak point of the Estehi: the idle speed floats for almost everyone, and removing the line of two carbs is very difficult (but possible) without removing the hefty air filter receiver, removing which means disassembling half of the motorcycle. Adjusting the idle speed is also not an entirely simple task - the mixture quality screws on Mikuni carburetors are located in deep vertical wells, which can only be accessed from below by touch, I even had to make a special L-shaped screwdriver from an 8-centimeter nail. True, the good news is that the speed (amount of mixture) is regulated simultaneously on two carbs with a bolt on a cable dangling near the frame, and if you get the hang of it, you can do this with your left hand, without even getting off the motorcycle. And don’t believe those who tell you that poor idle is due to the fact that the synchronization has not been done - the carbs are designed to work at different ranges of engine operation, and their “synchronization” will lead to the fact that the motorcycle may not run at all . Two carburetors per cylinder, this, in addition to elasticity of operation throughout the entire speed range, also allows you to get anywhere if one of the membranes breaks; after all, this is a “professional” touring motorcycle at its core. In short, with carbs everything is quite simple - you remove it, check the membranes, blow it out, unscrew both idle speed screws 3.5 turns from the fully screwed position, check the integrity of the rubber inlet pipe, reassemble, set the screw to 1400 rpm, and go.
Gas tank - unlike the GS, it is located according to the classical layout, i.e. on top, not under the seat. This increases the center of gravity of the motorcycle, but this is not the main problem. The jamb is the system for communicating the tank with the atmosphere; it easily becomes clogged, most likely because the tube going down from the neck of the tank is often pinched. Dirt accumulates in a narrow place, and the already small hole becomes blocked, especially after moisture gets there. This appears after driving in heavy rain or after refueling if gasoline gets into the plastic fitting protruding next to the tank neck on the seat side. If your motorcycle suddenly stalls and a spark kills the elephant and the tank is switched to reserve, the most likely reason is a clogged tank ventilation system. This is easy to check by opening the gas tank cap, because gasoline flows into the carbs by gravity. Therefore, it is good to install an additional transparent gas filter (preferably a diesel one, it has a higher throughput and does not become clogged with water) in the area of the fuel tap - and everything will be immediately visible. Blowing with high pressure helps clear the blockage for a while, but it is better to find this tube and clean it and at the same time the fitting and valves on the gas tank cap, otherwise you will have to drive with the cap open and breathe in gasoline vapors.
Bearings - this is where BMW engineers clearly decided to save money. Nothing has caused me as much grief as they have. You must always remember that the service life of the original wheel bearings is 15-20 thousand km, the service life of the star support bearing is not much longer. If the rear sprocket begins to dangle, this already gives reason to pay attention to this bearing, otherwise the dangling sprocket may jam the chain that is a little short, as was the case in my case. If the star support bearing begins to crumble, the bushing on which it is mounted also wears out, which cannot be treated without a lathe, and this is already serious. Therefore, these units need to be carefully monitored, and it is better to always have a pair of wheel bearings and support bearings in stock, at least of Russian production. By the way, when we pulled out the wheel bearings, the inscription “RUSSIA” proudly appeared on them. Experts said that in fact these bearings are Chinese, and I was about to punch the motorcycle seller in the face until I read on the website faq.f650.com that American BMW owners who bought new motorcycles and had them serviced by an official dealer also encountered the same bearings . Apparently, the fault lies with the manufacturer itself - the BMW company, so you need to either “butt heads” with them, or immediately replace all the bearings with normal ones. By the way, absolutely all bearings on this motorcycle have Russian counterparts.
The electronics are all very reliable, with the exception of the side stand sensor, which I tore off after 2 thousand km. I just shorted the wires, wrapped them with electrical tape and I drive to this day without any problems or hassles with the ignition. The rear light - it fell off almost immediately for me, since the motorcycle is loaded with increased vibrations, which are only amplified by the mud shield located under the light. I replaced the flashlight with another one of a similar shape, installing it through a centimeter-long foam rubber gasket. You can also further strengthen the mud shield by screwing a metal strip to it from the inside for rigidity.
It is better to immediately rewind with electrical tape and collect all (all!) wires into bundles, especially the wires going under the seat from the alternator to the switch, and even better to throw out the connecting block at the same time, soldering the wires, since a large current flows through them, causing heating and melting pads, which can cause the commutator or alternator windings to burn out - I won’t say what consequences this may have.
It is also better to wrap all the engine hoses properly with electrical tape, since they rub against the plastic and frame during vibrations - you can unexpectedly catch problems out of the blue.
Plastic - if we are talking about using a motorcycle under travel conditions, that is, about long runs on different types of roads at different speeds, then it is worth thinking about its reliable fastening - all the bolts securing the sidewalls and fairing to the tank must be seated with thread sealant, otherwise they will unscrew due to vibrations. It is better to coat all overlapping plastic joints with silicone sealant, otherwise the paint will wear off due to vibrations. Fastening the windshield is a separate issue: BMW engineers clearly did not think this through, since the bolts that attach the windshield to the fairing are inserted into nuts covered with rubber and inserted into large round holes in the fairing. When the bolt is tightened, the rubber compresses and bulges out from the back of the plastic. This system is disposable, since the rubber breaks after two or three glass removals; in addition, it wears out from vibrations and the glass may simply fall out. In addition, dirt and sand get between the glass and the dashboard visor, and since everything vibrates, the windshield at the mounting points wears out and becomes dull - again, it is better to lubricate everything there with transparent silicone sealant.
Mirrors - God forbid you lose your own branded mirrors - whatever you put in place will fall off and break, again, from vibrations. However, I have not tried iron mirrors.
When there is an increased load (passenger or cargo), it is necessary to tighten the rear shock absorber as tightly as possible, otherwise, due to the huge travel of the rear suspension, the plastic trough under the seat can easily be rubbed with rubber, and the chain guide will also fall apart in this case.
The standard windshield does not protect a driver above average height from either the wind or the midges that cover the helmet visor; it is better to immediately change it to a tall, tuned one or install an additional screen.
Standard arches do not protect the plastic from falls. Arcs from third-party manufacturers that I have seen are also so-so. I made the arches at the factory, where they welded me “ears” that covered the sides of the plastic; when I fell in place with the side bags on the motorcycle, there was not a single scratch. Without these “ears” the plastic would inevitably crack.
Well, spare parts - try to buy anything for a BMW, except consumables, even in such big cities as Moscow and St. Petersburg.
I think the cross-country run brought out the good and bad qualities of this bike quite well.
In general, to be honest, I didn’t find the more “enduristic” GS to have any special advantages over the “road” “Esteha”, at least according to my feelings. All my impressions of the BMW F650 ST can be expressed in one phrase - it is optimal for tourism on asphalt and dirt roads without driving into shit, in terms of rationality and practicality and a combination of driving and consumer qualities, it rivals all the vehicles that I have driven before.
BMW F650GS (2000-2007) 1. Appearance: for an amateur, but at certain angles it is excellent, many people perceive it as a moped, including traffic police inspectors. During inspection, the inspector asked me: Is this a motorcycle? ..this is for those who doubt whether or not to register...I did)))) 50 mares and 2500 rubles. taxes don’t seem to strain the budget too much.
2. Comfort: the seating position is straight and high, the visibility is ideal, it is not for nothing that it is recommended for beginners as a 1-2 moto, the seat is comfortable while driving, I didn’t get tired (I didn’t go further than 300 km because I have the opinion that “single-barrel guns” are not created for this). I didn’t experience any noise problems because... originally took the bushy Schubert. In general, I have no complaints. The heated and protected handles are a pleasant surprise, especially in the rain. A center stand is a must! It greatly facilitates lubrication and tensioning of the chain, tire fitting and provides additional protection when driving over high curbs, steps and other roots.
3. Safety: it’s on everyone’s mind, and a beginner’s head makes it relatively easy to cope with emerging road situations. I didn’t have ABS and its necessity is highly questionable... in short, it’s not needed on this model (this is my opinion)
4. Reliability: The Austrian single-pot Rotax is unpretentious and simple as a Kalashnikov assault rifle and up to 50 thousand does not cause any problems for anyone, unlike V-twins produced in China since 2006.. (further, judging by the forums, sometimes you have to change the pump (long-distance enthusiasts advise take a spare one with you on the road), candles and other small things, the wheels are removed/installed, tires can be installed in any tire shop, no skills or special equipment is required. The most common “sore” is the presence of oil in the airbox - it comes by gravity when the bike is placed on the right side, or when the level is checked on a cold engine and topped up too much, but the Germans thought of drainage for draining in this case (a hose with a plug under the false tank on the right side)... if you don’t drain it in time, the air filter gets wet, this is what happened to the previous owner and me I drove with this for about 1000 km without noticing anything until the next change of consumables (3 bottles of Motul 7100 were donated by the previous owner, air filter - 400 rubles, oil filter - 450 rubles, delivery within 2 days (Nizhny Novgorod) labor 700 rubles. You can do it yourself because there is nothing complicated, everything has been chewed up and chewed on the forum with photos, videos, etc.
At 23.5 thousand, I replaced both stars (3,500 rubles) and the chain (3,000 rubles), the work cost 1,500 rubles.
In general, as we can see, I went and was happy.
5. Driving performance:
-city- here, in my opinion, it simply has no equal when used during the working day - in traffic jams it steers easier than a scooter, it is controlled by an intuitive tilt of the body, i.e. you just looked where you need to go, and the car is already taking you there, the widest part is the steering wheel (initially there were weights and hand protection) and mirrors (sometimes you hit the mugs of the boxes with them and they also fold up from the oncoming wind at +130 km/h - it’s curable a banal twist of wire under the anthers), so the ceilings in the aisles of city traffic jams are his home and here neither a moped nor a bicycle, much less a sport or a chopper, is his competitor. I count the dynamics in my head to five and the speed is already 120 km/h, it is up to this point that it behaves very reliably, safely and predictably, then everything depends on the skill of the pilot. Evening adrenaline rushes through an empty city in a crowd of sports are a little upsetting because after 140-160 you feel like a moped among them - you dial it for a long time, growl at the limit and... you’re not going because of the stairs, curbs, forest park)))
-outside - after 120 you begin to feel the oncoming wind flow, I find it pleasant (it distracts you from bad dreams in the morning and in the evening from negative events during the working day, so you come to work fresh and joyful, home rested and positive) ... for some, of course no,...on a long distance it will 100% fail..it))). The maximum speed is 180 km/h and it doesn’t like long monotonous driving because it starts to vibrate (it’s a single-barreled gun) so it requires a torn mode (at least it seemed so to me). In general, from 0 to 160 km/h is pleasing.
-gravel roads, country roads, forest paths - this is exactly what it was created for and why they take it, of course it is difficult to compete in muddy races with TTRs, JiBels and other cross-country bikes because the weight with liquids exceeds 200 kg, and when you open the handle it simply buries itself, but with experience and replacing the sprockets with 13 teeth and 49 teeth (instead of the stock 16 and 47 teeth) and installing “evil” rubber, it tears everyone and everything and everywhere, allows it’s primitive to stant, etc…BUT we are mature people (35 years old), responsible (wife and two children) therefore….therefore.
Yesterday, after being deregistered, we were driving with a liter Ducati along the M-7..170 km/h, I sadly looked at his back while he was flirting with blondes, putting his horse on the rear wheel...we were stuck in a traffic jam - trucks three rows from the concrete divider close to the iron bumper .. there’s no way to push through, in general, he stood up, and I slid down a steep slope (45 degrees) into a field and lit up the grass, some kind of garbage dump, broken brick, pasture, dispersing tethered cows and calves and delighting the bored aunties in boxes , with her seemingly reckless driving in a standing position... which did not threaten anyone in terms of safety...
In general, the ideal device for beginners, including girls, is perfect for a 33+ family man who is used to doing everything “correctly” and for whom this correctness sometimes bothers... because the spendthrift allows you to “freak out” and have a blast without consequences in: the city , village, forest….
BMW F650GS (2008-2012). Engine - 798 cm³, two cylinders, four strokes, water cooling, 71 hp.
Stock tires are Metzeler Tourance EXP. Original extras (additional options) - Alarm system, LED indicators, integral ABS, heated grips, center stand, case, Akrapovic.
It's a thrill, of course. Freedom to move through traffic jams, intercity, country roads, in the rain and cold. There are classes in which everything is defined: chopper, sport, tourist, enduro... Each has its own equipment and its own place. The F650GS doesn't have its own class... It's like a crossover... A little enduro, a little urban naked. If the seat were comfortable, I would be a tourist))
Safe. Forgives a lot. Suitable for beginner. But it won’t fit everyone – it’s a bit high in the saddle. Excellent ergonomics, well-thought-out system (accessories, panniers, navigation, Akrapovic - everything will be from the salon, original... hmm, but not cheap))). Heated grips help when temperatures are below 15° or in the rain. Switchable ABS is good and useful. Even in “normal” situations, its operation speaks volumes. There were no precedents, but the motorcycle has a warning system for loss of tire pressure... If you puncture, you’ll let me know))
Why Akrapovich? It sounds great. Doesn't yell. But, under load, it has a pleasant bass tone. And it looks better than the stock “can.”
There is no desire to “twist” it into a ringing sound. Up to 6000 rpm, although the “red” zone is at 8000. The engine does not get very hot, the oil is semi-synthetic every 10,000. Gasoline is at least 91. I use 95ULT. Tried 98ULT... Money down the drain. No difference.
Of course, there is the R1200GS... Awesome all-rounder, but... a little more expensive)) Firsanovka? No... The profile is different. In all other cases - what you need. Unless, of course, your ambitions are covered by 71 hp. ))
In my opinion, the F650GS is not a fashion bike at all. There are no show-offs (IMHO). Yes, and “vidocq” is not for everyone.
But... image is one thing, and real life is another... As it is, with all its charms.
BMW F650GS (2008-2012). I took it as my first moto. This is precisely why I abandoned 800gs (even though this one is 800). The bike is wonderful, balanced. Abs works delicately. It can drive both calmly and dynamically. The maximum speed is about 190 with a little, it goes smoothly, acceleration to hundreds is 4.3s. You have to brake on it with great effort and use the rear one, although I almost always use only the front one (I don’t brake “in advance”). The suspension is more than enough to tumble along a grader, the side of the road, tram tracks, curbs, and on our roads (I haven’t tested it in more severe conditions, you need to change the tires to Karoo or similar. It doesn’t wobble in ruts. It steers well in a traffic jam and at speed, before by 19". (800 by 21". I'll fill it with 95. I ride in different ways, but more often aggressively, about 5 per hundred. I weigh about 82.
BMW F650GS (2000-2007). For the New Year 2010, I bought myself a medium-sized tourendura. I wanted a Tenera, but it turned out to be a BMW with 44 thousand km. Now the speedometer shows 60 thousand, I rarely leave the garage, I don’t like driving around the city, and these kilometers are mostly accumulated on long-distance trips. So I can draw some conclusions.
Brief technical specifications:
Class - tourist enduro.
Engine - Austrian, ROTAX, 1 cylinder, liquid cooling, volume 651 cc. Water cooling. 5 speed gearbox. The clutch is in an oil bath. Lubrication system - with a dry sump and a separate oil tank, volume 2.3 l.
Power supply system - injector, fuel pump in the tank. The tank is plastic, located under the saddle. Volume is 17 liters on a motorcycle with ABS and 20 liters on a motorcycle without ABS. Ignition system - 1 spark plug, since 2004 2 spark plugs per cylinder.
The frame is steel, diagonal, with a removable engine subframe and a removable tail subframe. The engine is the power element of the structure. It is secured well, nothing sticks out.
Suspension - non-adjustable fork in front. Pre-2003 models had rare durability issues. After 2003 the problem was fixed. Rear: steel box swingarm, linkage system, monoshock absorber with hydraulic adjustment and remote spring preload adjustment.
Standard equipment - ABS, heated steering grips, roll bars, crankcase protection, steering grip protection. Additional equipment - branded luggage system (top case, side telescopic cases, tank bag (bought additionally))
Comfort and usability:
This bike is quite large, larger than, for example, the Susuki XF, the beloved XR650L or the XT600. You sit down and wash the thing.
The seat height is low, this is an endura for short and medium height drivers. I don’t experience any difficulties at my height of 176 cm. However, when the pendants are fully clamped, I can only reach them with my socks. For those who are larger and taller, look for the Dakar modification. The saddle is hard, but wide and very comfortable, with kosher handles for the second number. The standard second number entered into the passport for mileage of 11+ thousand was not indignant.
The wind protection was disappointing. Either with a standard piece of glass, or with a high branded one above 110-120 km/h, it tears off your head.
Planting is kosher. The hands are at the level of the solar plexus and do not get tired from a long ride. The steering wheel is quite wide and comfortable. I would like the steering wheel grips to be a little thicker. The heated grips are much beyond praise. Very powerful. Hand protection repels rain and wind, keeping hands dry.
Suspensions - the front fork did not raise any questions as long as Dexron was filled. After changing to 10W oil it became a little harsh. Before the next season I’ll put the dextron back in. The rear suspension is adjustable for preload and rebound over a wide range, from “sofa” to “damn, this is too much!”
It perfectly digests broken-down asphalt, ridges, holes, potholes, curbs, country roads, and arable land. The most wonderful feeling from driving on graders and gravel roads. Predictable, controlled and soft in my teapot opinion. I mastered driving on graders and sand quite quickly - driving with body work and “more gas, fewer holes” delivers.
ABS rules, especially in the rain or in the spring, when the asphalt is full of shit. But on gravel I turn it off. Box:
In terms of operating noise, it resembles ... the “best” examples of domestic technology. The insertion of the first and second is accompanied by a loud clang a la the Ural. Otherwise, there are no questions if you make sure that the free play is adjusted correctly.
Dynamics: 50 hp with 650 cubic centimeters of volume per cylinder - this is higher than that of its classmates. The engine starts to rev at 3000 rpm, the most vigorous acceleration is 5000-6000 rpm, the most comfortable range for driving is 4500-5500 rpm. — minimal vibrations, minimal fuel consumption.
I don’t like first gear with standard sprockets - it’s too fast, 10 km/h at idle (1500 rpm). Heavy sections have to be driven using the clutch. At the same time, the cruising speed of 100 km/h is in the region of 4000 rpm in fifth, when the motorcycle is not yet “moving”, or in the region of 5000 in fourth, when it is easy, but vibrations are already appearing. The solution was suggested by a comrade from Ufa, a Dakar winner - he puts the front sprocket one tooth smaller and enjoys life. Then 100 km/h is a calm 4500 in fifth gear.
Fuel and appetite. Despite the high compression ratio of 11.5:1, the engine eats everything that burns. I refuel without worrying about quality, I have never had any problems with fuel, although I have filled it up to trailers on the highway in Russia and Belarus. The only thing is that the consumption fluctuates. I heard a detonation click once when the rpm under load dropped to 500. The appetite is not far from the nameplate 3.7 l/100 km. I have a version with ABS, from refueling until the reserve lamp lights up (about 12 liters) is enough for 250-300 km of highway mileage (100-130 km/h) of a loaded motorcycle and with a passenger, depending on the quality and brand of fuel. The reserve is enough for another hundred, so the power reserve is decent.
Improvement: A trunk was made for the long-haul trucks, secured with four bolts through spacers to the standard holes in the tail under the topcase. Made from a two-meter piece of 16mm square pipe and two strips of 2mm steel in a couple of hours. dimensions 60x25 cm. The design has proven its reliability as a mount for a bag weighing 25-30 kg, and at the same time supporting the back of a passenger.
A double-barreled cigarette lighter on a homemade bracket was made from a car socket extension. Attached to the bracket for the left handlebar protection.
Wind protection has been improved dramatically by installing the signature tall windshield on a homemade adjustable bracket at a sharper angle. I adjusted it to suit my height so I could still look over it. And the helmet remains clean, all insect bodies are collected by the glass. The saddlebag mounts are quite reliable and convenient. The only thing was that after the fall I lost a piece of the left case fastening, I made a replacement from steel and riveted it on.
Deodorant. The catalytic converter was knocked out (I think in vain), and the plug was also removed from the first muffler, which made breathing easier. It got better, but not dramatically. The fact is that the motor is constrained by environmental standards. The same f650.com recommends trimming the air intake, direct flow or alteration of the standard muffler and rewiring the brains to old European firmware. The winter is long, I’ll either try to change it if I find a dump, or install a tuning injection controller from Dobeck.
Maintenance, complaints, sores: So, let's start with the engine. Single-cylinder, with a five-speed gearbox, equipped with injection since 2001, with two spark plugs per cylinder since 2004. It has no pronounced sores, is structurally simple, and does not suffer from an appetite for oil.
The first thing I did was check the valve clearances. The valve mechanism is double-shaft, driven by a chain with a hydraulic tensioner and an automatic decompressor mounted on the right cam of the exhaust camshaft.
The valves are adjusted with washers, this is perhaps the main maintenance problem. The washers are located under the pushers in the form of glasses, so to replace them it is necessary to dismantle the camshaft beds. Technically it's quite simple. When removing the airbox and battery with bracket, excellent access to the engine head opens. With some skill, you can do without dismantling the chain tensioner and draining the oil from the line, as required by the instructions. In addition, this same tensioner on the version with ABS is more difficult to get than getting to the valves. All methods are described on https://faq.f650.com - a very sensible American site about these motorcycles. In short - you need to bring the crankshaft to TDC of the compression stroke, camshafts - according to the marks, fix the crankshaft with a special, but in fact ordinary M8 bolt, fix the chain on the camshafts with ziplocks, remove the bed cover, pull out the exhaust cam first, move it forward, pull out the intake cam , pull out the bottom of the bed. Reassemble in reverse order, checking the marks.
The valves on mine turned out to be at a minimum, so I measured the gaps, ordered and installed washers, bringing the gap to the maximum, since on them they tend to decrease during highway use. After 5000, I removed it as a preventative measure - the gaps did not go away, so I won’t touch them for at least another 15,000 km.
Changing the oil involves warming it up, then you need to remove the left side of the false tank, put the motorcycle on a side stand, drain the oil from the oil tank, then unfasten the crankcase protection, drain the oil from the engine, and only then unscrew the oil filter cap, drain the oil from its cavity and change the element . The first couple of times you won’t be able to soak the motor in oil, then the Mosk will give you an idea - remove the drive sprocket cover, then cut out a tray from one and a half sheets of paper.
Replacing the air filter is also trivial only the first time - you need to unscrew the two bolts of the snorkel clamp, remove half of the clamp, then pull the snorkel to the right (towards you). The filter will be accessible, and after prying it off with a screwdriver, it will be in your hands. Now let's try to insert the new filter, and then the snorkel, without jamming the edge of the new filter. Bummer! The filter tends to get jammed. Once again, a one-and-a-half piece cut to the size of the snorkel clamp will help out. You need to lightly lubricate the edge of the filter seal with engine oil, insert the filter into place, then insert a piece of one and a half rubles, and only after that push in the snorkel. Then remove the piece of one and a half and have an intact filter.
The suspension is theoretically maintenance-free, so you still need to periodically remove the lever and lubricate the bearings. The weak point is the link bearings (bones). I looked at the emerging wear on the bushings, with the clips and needles in excellent condition, and replaced them with pieces of a piston pin from a Cascade walk-behind tractor.
Apparently, the motorcycle sniffed not only asphalt, and it got it specifically. Let's see. Tires - the motorcycle came with new ones, Dunlop D460 at the front, Michelin Sirac at the rear. I can't say anything bad. The rear cylinder went 16,000. I noticed that the pressure must be constantly monitored and adjusted depending on the load, otherwise it immediately begins to eat. Another three thousand cylinder is like, before it was consumed by 35-40 percent.
An important component that you should periodically pay attention to is the water pump and its drive gears. My seals died at 53 thousand, in a long drive.
To replace, you must remove the clutch cover. The gears (plastic) were, as they say, “at death’s door”; I changed them later.
In general, maintenance if you know these “tricks” is no more difficult than servicing a steam locomotive; you just need to read the manual.
Prices for consumables:
Contrary to popular belief that BMW is very expensive, I will give the prices for original spare parts:
- Valve washer orig. 160 rubles existential.
- Glass (valve pusher) orig. — 400 rub.
- Orig head cover gasket - 1500 rub.
- Steering column bearing pair (SKF) - 1200 rubles pair
- Air filter orig. — 531 rubles (non-original 300 rubles)
- Oil filter orig. — 492 rubles (non-original 300 rubles)
- Pump with drive — 2100 rub.
- Pads in front of orig. — 2500 rub.
- Rear pads orig. — 1500 rub. (cheap non-original - crap, I tried it.)
- Fuel filter with pressure regulator — 4500 rub.
- Fork seals pair orig. — 720 rub.
Go to the BMW F650 motorcycle (F650GS, F650ST, F650CS)
Check out the test drives:
- Test drive of the BMW F650GS motorcycle (2000-2007) from the publication “Baykademia”
- Review of the BMW F650GS motorcycle (2000-2007) from Moto Magazine
