Motorcycle trips
As the motorcycle season approaches, we are increasingly thinking about how to spend the summer as productively and brightly as possible, especially weekends. An interesting solution might be to travel to nearby cities and regions, but the question arises of where to go so that it’s close, interesting, and the roads are good, but without busy federal highways.
We have made a selection of interesting weekend routes around Moscow. If this article receives good feedback from readers, then next time we will make a selection of routes around St. Petersburg, and then in other regions of Russia.
Tula-Ryazan, 2-3 days, 1000 km
Motorcycle trip to the southern regions. There are good roads and interesting sights, among which, first of all, are the Tula Weapons Museum, the museum-estate of L.N. Tolstoy in Yasnaya Polyana, Kulikovo Field, the Ryazan Kremlin and the village of Konstantinovo, where Yesenin was born.
On the way to Tula, having passed through Podolsk, it is worth visiting Dubrovitsy - a village in which one of the most beautiful monuments of the Moscow region is located - the Church of the Sign. It is located on the territory of the Golitsyn estate. .
Moving further towards Serpukhov, go left, towards the Prioksko-Terrasny Reserve - the roads here are beautiful and there is no traffic, and next to the reserve there is another attraction - a bison and bison nursery.
On the road from Tula to Ryazan, you should definitely stop at Kulikovo Field - a new interactive museum was recently built here, which will tell you about the legendary battle of Alexander Nevsky with the Mongol army.
If you wish, you can add some dirt roads near Tula near the village of Konduki - there is a beautiful system of flooded sand pits.
As you can understand, the places are interesting and there are more than enough attractions in this direction. We will not tell you in detail what to see in Tula, Ryazan, Zaraysk, Kolomna and other cities, we are sure you can do it yourself if you wish.
Suzdal-Yaroslavl, 2-3 days, 600 km
Route through the most popular cities of the Golden Ring. Both cities look great today, they have developed infrastructure, hotels, restaurants, many ancient monuments and beautiful nature.
Be prepared for a large number of tourists and high hotel prices - the downside of popularity.
On the way to Suzdal, we recommend stopping at the Air Force Museum in Monin (about 25 kilometers from the Moscow Ring Road). This is a paradise for aviation lovers, with many airplanes, helicopters and other aircraft gathered in the open air.
Further along the route is Vladimir with its greatest masterpieces of ancient Russian white stone architecture: the Golden Gate, the Assumption Cathedral, the Dmitrov Cathedral, the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl (in Bogolyubovo, which is ten kilometers east of the center of Vladimir).
30 km north of Vladimir is Suzdal, perhaps the most popular city of the Golden Ring. There are a lot of churches and monasteries around, where you can wander around all day. On the first weekend of July, Suzdal Blues-Bike Fest takes place - an international motorcycle festival, which has been organized by the Total Flame company for several years.
Yaroslavl is ready to compete with Suzdal for the title of the most beautiful city of the Golden Ring. The entire historical center of the city is a UNESCO monument. In the second half of July, the second Moto Family Days will be held in Yaroslavl - a new format of a family motorcycle festival. It’s nice that with the development of motorcycle culture in Russia, more and more different events and activities are appearing.
Plyos, 2 days, 750 km
We did not write about Ples in the last tour, since this place deserves special attention. You can stop here on your way from Suzdal to Yaroslavl, but it is much better to come here specifically for a few days. Why do we think this?
Plyos is a small town on the banks of the Volga, 350 km from Moscow. In the evening, when the buses with tourists leave, it is quiet here, as if you find yourself in an ordinary provincial town, far from the hustle and bustle. Considering the frantic pace we live in today, this opportunity is especially valuable.
There are many museums and churches in Plyos, beautiful nature, an elk farm on the other side of the Volga, an authentic local market, many coffee shops and several very cozy hotels where you can spend a quiet weekend in the company of a loved one or with friends, whoever wants more. And of course, smoked and dried Volga fish and delicious draft beer.
It is best to go to Ples through Kirzhach, Yuryev-Polsky and Kolchugino. We advise you to return back through Kostroma along the opposite bank of the Volga from you. In the village of Krasnye Pozhny there is a ferry across the Volga.
After Yaroslavl, go left (depending on where you look from!) and through Uglich, Myshkin, Kalyazin and Sergiev Posad return to Moscow.
Chapter 7. Teriberka - Kandalaksha
I spend the night in Kandalaksha, at the local yacht club. True, it’s still polar day here, so staying at night is a relative concept. I did some minor repairs right on the pier, accompanied by the cries of seagulls. Then I met my neighbor at the hotel (from St. Petersburg, just going to Teriberka), we are watching football now.
Tomorrow I’ll go to Kalevala, in central Karelia, to the famous 800 km trek with bears and midges.
Nikola-Lenivets, 2 days, 520 km
Another relatively easy and at the same time bright and interesting weekend route is a trip to the Nikola Lenivets art park. Many people have heard about this place, but not many have been there.
The main purpose of the trip is a landscape art park, where architectural and sculptural art objects of modern art are located on an impressive territory of 600 hectares.
This trip will have some dirt roads in front of and around the park, so the ideal motorcycle for the trip would be a touring bike like the BMW GS, KTM Adventure, Honda Africa-Twin, etc. Although you can get there on any other motorcycle, the journey will just take longer and be less enjoyable.
There are different options for overnight accommodation, from hotels to tents. In the center of the park there are several restaurants serving local beer, infusions and delicious farm food.
You can return to Moscow by a short road through the Simferopol Highway or a longer road through Kaluga and the Prioksko-Terrasny Nature Reserve.
Which motorcycle to choose for motorcycle touring?
Motorcycles, like cars or bicycles, come in different types designed for completely different purposes. The slight difference between models of the same manufacturer is clearly felt at a great distance. And even on the fastest and lightest sports motorcycle you won’t be able to ride comfortably all day - your back will get tired, your arms and legs will become numb. Which technique should you choose?
Road motorcycles are designed for long trips - their geometry is specially designed to ensure the most comfortable fit for the rider. They have numerous mounts for luggage racks and trunks, and the backrest and leg extensions are easy to install. The fuel consumption of such models is relatively low.
Seliger-Valdai, 2-4 days, 1000-1300 km
Seliger is a system of lakes of glacial origin in the Tver and Novgorod regions. Here is one of the main Russian shrines, the Nilova-Stolobenskaya hermitage. There are a lot of berries and mushrooms, fantastic fishing, delicious liqueurs and draft Tver beer. Also on the northwestern side of Seliger is the source of the Volga, the greatest river in Russia.
For some reason that no one understands, despite the proximity to Moscow, the roads in the Seliger area have not been repaired since the Second World War - in some places there is simply no asphalt, in some places there is, but with meter-deep potholes. There are also normal roads, but you need to know them, otherwise there is a risk of going the wrong way. For this trip you definitely need a touring motorcycle, preferably a touring-enduro motorcycle, and not a sport-tourist.
Behind Seliger begins the Valdai National Park - the place is included in the UNESCO list as a world natural and cultural heritage site. The park is located 400 km from Moscow, on its territory there is the Valdai Iversky Monastery, radon springs, abandoned ballistic missile launch silos and many other interesting objects.
In the area of Seliger and Valdai there are a lot of different dirt roads and little traffic. This trip is an excellent option for a small off-road adventure with overnight stays in tents and outdoor recreation. In recent years, the local forestry has built several camping areas within the park where you can stay with a tent. You can go fishing, barbecue, rent a sauna, or just relax in nature. For those who prefer to stay in a hotel, there are also many good options.
Disadvantages of motorcycle travel
- Requires special rights. To drive a motorcycle you need a category A1 or A license. A regular category B car license will not work. With category A1 you can drive motorcycles with an engine capacity of up to 125 cm³. These are small, lightweight vehicles that travel at a maximum speed of 110 km/h. With category A you can drive any motorcycle. To get these from autumn to spring, you will have to find a motorcycle school with a closed area.
- Seasonality. Unlike a car, which can be used all year round, a motorcycle is a seasonal means of transportation. In the Russian central zone, the motorcycle season usually lasts from May to October. Riding a motorcycle out of season is not only unpleasant, but also dangerous.
- Limits on carrying capacity. You can’t go on a trip on a motorcycle with three children, or at most, together with your significant other. Carrying a tent, folding camping furniture, a sun umbrella and a suitcase of clothes is also problematic. Although the problem can be partially solved by luggage cases.
- Injury hazard. Unlike a car, a motorcyclist is much less protected in an accident. Motorcycle equipment is mandatory in any case and in any weather, since injury can be caused without a road accident, for example, by falling from a motorcycle on a slippery and dirty slope.
“To travel on a motorcycle, you must purchase at least a helmet to protect your head, motorcycle boots (plastic or metal inserts protect against leg injuries), fabric pants and a jacket with a membrane.
They are much more practical than leather ones; they will breathe in hot weather and keep you warm in cold weather. Also, the minimum traveler’s kit includes a tent for unexpected overnight stays in the fresh air, a raincoat, several pairs of gloves and socks, 1-2 sets of thermal underwear, and a first aid kit. You will also need at least a minimum set of spare parts - 2 spare tubes, a pump, spark plugs, oil, chain lubricant and what often breaks down on your motorcycle model (relevant information can be found on thematic resources). One of the most common minor accidents looks like this: “slipped and fell on one side. In such a situation, the front brake levers, gear shift levers, and side steps suffer and break - it’s better to have spare ones with you, so that in this case you can move on calmly,” advises motorcycle traveler Dmitry Melnikov.
Smolensk region, 3 days, 1100 km
An interesting option for a trip to historical sites of the Napoleonic War, visiting several former noble estates, museums and abandoned roads. But first things first.
Your first stop on the road from Moscow will be the Borodino Field Museum-Reserve, the oldest battlefield museum in the world, based on the site of battles of two Patriotic Wars. There are more than 200 historical monuments and memorable places on its territory. In addition, there is a chance to get to some military-historical festival, which is held annually on the Borodino field.
Next, with a stop at the Yu.A. Museum. Gagarin in the city of the same name and the village of Khmelitu, where the Griboedov estate is located, you will get to Smolensk by secondary roads. But don’t rush to go to the hotel right away. First, make a stop at the Katyn memorial complex - Polish officers were shot here in 1940, and many Soviet citizens were killed here earlier. In 1998, a memorial complex was opened at the site of the tragic events, which we strongly advise you to visit. It's worth it.
When returning back to Moscow, be sure to make a stop at the Talashkino-Flyonovo museum-estate, where you can see the magnificent mosaic of Nicholas Roerich “The Savior Not Made by Hands,” made by the artist over the portal of the Church of St. Spirit. In the village you can swim in the font, and then we suggest returning to Moscow along the Starosmolenskaya road. Today it is a single-lane dirt road in places, which can only be driven on a touring motorcycle. There is no car traffic here, as well as gas stations and shops. Cellular reception is spotty in places.
Chapter 5. Solovki - Khibiny
I arrived in Kirovsk closer to midnight, because it was possible to sail from Solovki only at lunchtime. I pulled into a gas station, went inside, and there were about 20 people watching football on a small old TV. I was right in the middle of a penalty shootout, I watched it too, I was worried, then I refueled and found out where the nearest hotel was. I checked into a great room, washed, dried and slept.
The next morning I went to conquer the Ministry of Emergency Situations base deep in the Khibiny Mountains. I was so worried about the road, but in the end I flew it without any problems, except that I lost a couple of screws from the motorcycle. On the way we stopped at the Beautiful waterfall, which lives up to its name. I won’t go deep into the description of the local beauties - just look at the photos.
At the Ministry of Emergency Situations base, some local guys were drinking beer and barbecuing. I was pretty sweaty and I wanted beer so much that I decided to buy a bottle from the guys. As a result, I ended up at their table and was generously fed and watered in exchange for stories from the trip. It turned out that one of them is the owner of the very gas station where I watched football. In general, I was driving back a little drunk, so I reached the asphalt in about 20 minutes.
The Ministry of Emergency Situations base in the Khibiny gorge
After resting at the hotel, I moved towards the farthest point of my route - to Teriberka.
Voronezh Region, 3 days 1100 km
Voronezh and its surroundings are a very good destination for a short trip. Despite the distance from Moscow, in the southern direction there are many good secondary roads that can quickly get to Voronezh.
The city itself is very pleasant, well-groomed and equipped - cafes, restaurants, museums, a beautiful center, which is pleasant to walk around on a warm summer evening. Few people know, but Voronezh is the birthplace of the Russian fleet; more than 200 warships were built here under Peter I, which allowed Russia to win a number of victories in naval battles.
The region is also the capital of the Black Earth Region - there are many rivers, fields and forests, nature reserves and parks. For example, towards Rostov-on-Don, ~100 km from the city, there is the Divnogorye Park. Behind Zadonsk, on the Lipetsk highway, the Galichya Gora Nature Reserve is the very first nature reserve that was created on Russian territory. On the territory there is an unusual architectural complex - the old Taldykin estate with a complex of outbuildings and a pre-revolutionary mill.
Not far from Zadonsk is Skornyakovo-Arkhangelskoye, a restored noble estate, where today there is a museum, a household, a restaurant and a small hotel.
Important - when planning a trip, keep in mind that you can get to the south along secondary roads to the left of the M-4 highway, and it is more interesting to return to Moscow using the same secondary roads to the right of the highway, through Dankov, Lebedyan, Lev Tolstoy, etc.
Chukhloma-Sugorye, 3-4 days, 1500 km
Chukhloma is an ancient Russian city on the shore of the lake of glacial origin of the same name Chukhloma. In the vicinity of Chukhloma there is a very beautiful Astashovo estate. In fact, it’s hard to call it an estate - it’s a real ancient Russian wooden tower, the place is very different from what you’ve seen before, don’t be lazy to get there to see it in person.
After Chukhloma, it’s worth going to Sugorye - a place where the life of the ancient Slavs and Scandinavians is reconstructed; an entire fortress on the river bank has been recreated here. On the way to Moscow, we recommend visiting Rybinsk - another beautiful city with a little-known history, an interesting center and a dam. The roads are unpaved in some places, the asphalt is not good everywhere, it is better to hit the road on an enduro tour.
Chapter 6. Khibiny - Teriberka
Teriberka is of course a completely unique place. A ghost village where every second house is abandoned and looks at the world through the black eye sockets of broken windows. As if this is all a big target, a decoration created for military exercises of nuclear missile strikes. I have never seen such a post-apocalyptic place, pure Fallout.
Meanwhile, this is a village with a very long and rich history, in which 800 people still live. So that you understand the scale of the decline: at the peak of its development in the 30s (at that time dozens of people were being shot on Solovki), the population of Teriberka was as many as 5,000 people! Today there is not even a school or hospital here.
Now the local men are not particularly similar to the strong northern business executives (as, for example, in Solovki). They drink mercilessly (a six-month binge does not surprise anyone here) and conduct “conversations” with each other at such a degenerate level that it is unclear how they even put a spoon in their mouth get in. Women are heavily involved in housework, in the best traditions of house-building, and for entertainment they have a choir (in which one grandmother, for example, has been singing for 60 (!!) years). Hopelessness, in short, total.
Nature (if the various stone forms, moss and icy sea can be called that) constantly reminds me of the series “Game of Thrones”. It seems that the Hound and Arya Stark are about to gallop along the hill on the horizon, and a dragon will fly after them. The species are completely alien and it’s so surprising that this is still Russia. And how amazing it is to be here on your own on a motorcycle, wow!
The festival of motorcycle travelers Motobukhta is taking place in Teriberka for the ninth time. Here I met all the guys with whom I managed to make friends on the road and with whom we whiled away the road on certain sections of the route. In the end, we all huddled together in one mighty group and went in search of impressions.
We rode motorcycles around the area, climbed abandoned buildings, tasted huge crabs, walked ten kilometers along the beach, went fishing in the open sea, cooked fish soup over a fire, walked a lot around the village and even attended a local choir concert. We watched a pod of killer whales; they circled around our boat for several hours! I couldn’t even dream about this.
This is the story, without conclusions or morals. Locals say it’s not in a hurry, but the flow of tours is growing and the darkest night is behind us. God willing, it would be unforgivable for the country to lose such an interesting and colorful place on the edge of the world. Just as it would be unforgivable to lose it for the natives, who today are doing something completely different from what they should be doing.
With mixed, but very deep and important feelings, I set out on the way home. Tonight I will spend the night in Kandalaksha. The drive is only 350 km, the weather is promised to be excellent, so welcome to the south!