Four-stroke engine for scooters/scooters/scooters/mopeds

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At the same time, the large size is a big plus - a person “two meters” tall can sit comfortably and at ease behind the wheel, which is very problematic on the Joga.
The chassis and suspension and brakes match. There is a hydraulic disc brake (09) at the front and a standard drum at the rear. Suspension: front - hydraulic fork (instead of the usual spring) (09b), and rear - one reinforced shock absorber (10).

There is also a glove compartment under the steering wheel (11-12) and a classic “toilet bowl” under the seat (13).

Pleasant to the eye and hands, switches and instrument panel (14-17).

Probably, one of the disadvantages is the location of the oil tank, more precisely, the filler neck itself (18) - pouring oil from simple packages (without a spout) is quite problematic - inevitably some of the oil will flow down the body and settle on the engine, frame and air filter box; the second is the low location of the exhaust pipe of the muffler (an old “disease” of the 3KJ engine) - it can easily be torn off on a curb or on a tram rail (19). But, as we wrote earlier, this can be treated with a spacer for the shock absorber and “thick” tires - size 3.50-10. By the way, such tires simply need to be installed on the Axis - firstly, you greatly benefit in handling and stability, and secondly, the appearance of the scooter changes significantly for the better. Let me explain about stability and controllability: tires of greater thickness have more mass, and, consequently, the gyroscopic moment will increase - as the vehicle gains speed, it gains more and more stability and is less likely to stray from the trajectory on bumps; high-quality tires 3.50-10 have more (relative to standard 3.00 -10 tires) width and a larger contact patch with the road surface, and plus it is less sloping - this in total makes it possible to accurately measure the depth of lean in a turn and adds confidence when maneuvering. One more thing - when riding on thin “donuts”, the scooter responds very sharply to manipulations of the steering wheel - it literally breaks in turns; in the case of large, wide wheels, the handling is stable and much more predictable (pay attention to photo 07, the difference is obvious).

However, let’s return straight to the insides of the scooter, or more precisely, to how to get inside and evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of the model. Let's start, as usual, with the plastic body kit - remove the decorative panel under the brake light (20-21), behind it are the screws securing the “skis” (22),

Having unscrewed two more screws from the sides of the scooter (23), remove the plastic (24).

The following become available: vacuum valve (25), battery compartment (26) and fuse (27).

It is worth remembering that without a fuse, the scooter will work, but you will not be able to use the lighting and sound signal. Remove the seat (28) and trunk trim (29).

Unscrew three screws (30-31), two more on each side (32-33)

and two “under the tail” (34), remove the gas tank cap (35) and dismantle the plastic body kit (36). Now you can, for example, change the starter relay or switch (37).

Using a “10” tube, remove the “toilet bowl” (38-41), using a “12” head and a tube, remove the trunk (42-43).

We unscrew the two screws that hold the rear wing in the block with lighting equipment (44) and disconnect the terminals (45-46).

Remove the rubber mat (47), the floor mounting bolts are hidden under it, unscrew them (48-49) and remove the floor (50).

From below, the scooter frame is covered with a solid plastic “trough”; our attention was drawn to the bracket for the side stand, and one interesting thing is that the plastic has a chamfer made for the future window for the footrest (51) - the usual foresight of the Japanese.

In a circle, we unscrew all the screws on the outer and inner sides that secure the front plastic (52-55), the screws in the “beak” (56) are nothing more than plugs, they do not hold anything, but simply cover the holes intended for attaching the basket.

For our purposes, there is no need to turn them away. Now you can remove the “trough” (57) and the front plastic (58). There is a bolt (59) under the glove compartment cover; after unscrewing it, you need to remove the decorative trim on the ignition switch by turning it counterclockwise (60).

And now you can dismantle the “interior” (61). There is plastic left on the steering wheel - it consists of two halves - upper and lower - unscrew the screws from the bottom (62-65) and remove the upper part (66).

Now you can dismantle the headlight-turn signal unit; to do this, unscrew the remaining fasteners (67-68) and disconnect the chips (69).

So we “stripped” the scooter - this is how it looks without plastic (70-73).

After a careful inspection of the insides, we noticed one annoying thing - the rubber apron, which protects the filling from dirt flying from the wheel, will gradually wipe the oil tank (74) - this is easy to fix, just cut off the extra piece of rubber in this case.

Let's start preparing the scooter for removing the engine. Let's remove the oil tank - it is secured with two bolts (75-76), then take out the tank and turn it over so that the fitting is on top - remove the hose.

You can drain the oil and wash the reservoir (77). The throttle cable can be disconnected when approaching the steering column - a very useful thing (78-79).

Disconnect the rear brake cable - unscrew the adjusting nut (80) and pull out the cable. Then we disconnect all the hoses from the vacuum valve (81), disconnect all the wires going to the engine (82), remove the spark plug cap (83).

All that remains are the bolts securing the subframe to the frame (84) and the shock absorber (85), now you can safely “roll out” the engine, i.e. in our case, remove the frame from the engine - lift it and roll it forward (86).

Here it is, the engine is in our hands (87-88). First, remove the air filter (89-90) and open the box (91-92).

Is the foam clean and oiled? Great. If it is old or torn, or if it is not there at all, then install a new one, after soaking it in oil for air filters. Now remove the carburetor by loosening the clamp (93). Read about disassembling the carburetor, cleaning and tuning it in the following issues of the magazine. Next, remove the reed valve, because Since its task is to admit the fuel-air mixture and prevent it from escaping, you should check the fit of the petals to the surface of the valve body. Fuel additive deposits should also be cleaned. Dismantling the valve is simple - first we clean the engine surface from dirt so that it does not get into the crank chamber, then we unscrew four bolts (94) with a hexagon and remove the inlet pipe (95), and after that the valve itself (96). You can take a look at the crankshaft (97). Cover the hole with a clean rag.

To remove the CPG (cylinder-piston group), it is necessary to dismantle the muffler - first we unscrew the screws that attract the exhaust pipe to the cylinder (98), and then we use a wrench to unscrew the two bolts holding the muffler body to the crankcase (99) and remove the part.

Because the motor is cooled by forced air flow, then in order for it to optimally blow through all surfaces of the cylinder, a plastic casing is provided - it must be removed, for this we arm ourselves with a screwdriver and unscrew the screws (100-102).

Now we have the opportunity to remove the cylinder - only four nuts (103) - and the head is in our hands (104). Remember, we talked about the inconvenient filler neck of the oil tank - here are the consequences - the cylinder is thickly covered with oil and dirt adhering to it - and this, by the way, greatly impairs cooling, so it is better to fill the oil carefully.

A sealant (105) is visible between the crankcase halves - a direct hint that the engine was rebuilt; on the one hand, this indicates a considerable mileage, and on the other, that new main bearings and, possibly, a crankshaft were installed, and this is already a plus! Well, having assessed the wear (most likely, its absence means severe wear of the CPG, which is rare on normal scooters from Japan), close the cylinder and move on to the variator.

To get into the depths of the variator it is absolutely not necessary to remove the engine! First of all, we remove the kick starter lever (106) - note that the bolt must be completely unscrewed. After this, remove the decorative plastic cover - it is held on by two rubberized bolts (107), and then, unscrewing all the bolts in a circle, remove the cover itself (try not to damage the gasket).

Before us is a very attractive picture - a fresh variator with minimal wear (108). Let us remind you once again about a convenient way to remove the variator itself (i.e., the drive pulley) - we block it with a suitable hexagon - the photo shows how this can be done, and unscrew the nut (109). Having removed the variator and pulled out the weights, we were slightly surprised - their wear had already become critical (110), so we decided to change them to normal ones (111). A lot depends on the integrity of the weights - if they are worn out, then dips appear during acceleration, and the variator may not open to its full working diameter at all. It is necessary to monitor this if you want to enjoy your ride.

From my own experience I will say that the resource of “native” Japanese cargo is at least 10 thousand kilometers. I don’t want to talk about Chinese ones at all, but Korean and tuning Italian ones have proven themselves well.

That's all, in fact, the scooter, according to our impressions, is very good, it is comfortable, practical, very easy to fine-tune, does not require special maintenance, is not capricious and can easily (in case of emergency) use 80-octane gasoline to This was not said by numerous supporters of the erroneous theory - the lower the octane number, the worse the gasoline... not worse, but has less energy output, while containing much fewer additives (often harmful to the engine), but this is a digression from the topic - of course, better pour 95, but if you stop on the highway with an empty tank, don’t be afraid to catch the Cossacks - their fuel is quite suitable for your pet - you’ll get to the gas station without any problems! Go for it!

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DIY 4-stroke scooter engine repair instructions

  1. Remove the engine from the scooter. We install the scooter as stable as possible. We remove the trunk. Disconnect all wires from the engine and the throttle cable from the carburetor. Remove the gas hose and vacuum filter. Disconnect the rear shock absorber. After the engine is separated from the frame, unscrew the nut on the mounting axle and remove the axle. After removal, it is advisable to wash the engine.
  2. Removing the cylinder head. It is necessary to clean the chamber from carbon deposits. In order to remove the head, you must first disconnect all the “extra” parts. Then the chain tensioner bolt and locking bolts are unscrewed. Then we turn the flywheel until the T designation matches the one on the engine body. We unscrew the bolts that secure the cylinder and remove the chain, and then the cylinder head itself.
  3. Valve clearances must be adjusted if metallic knocking occurs. The principle of operation is as follows: the valve mechanism cover is removed. We correlate the mark on the flywheel with the mark on the engine housing. We measure the gap between the adjusting screw and the valve stem. When increasing or decreasing the gap, we adjust by rotating the screw.

As practice shows, it is better to entrust major engine repairs to professionals, since many nuances arise that the average driver does not pay attention to, but which in the future can create even bigger problems and then more expensive repairs will be required. A video about repairing a 4-stroke scooter will introduce you to the main aspects of repair.

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Repair of scooters and mopeds in Moscow

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Major engine malfunctions

  • The engine will not start.
  • If the ignition key is not turned, the fuse is blown, or the battery is low, the engine will not show any signs of life. Therefore, before moving on to global repairs, you should check these reasons.

  • The starter turns over, but the engine does not start.
  • Possible reasons: a spark plug is broken, the carburetor is clogged, fuel is not entering the system.

  • The engine runs erratically or there is a loss of power.
  • This may indicate that the carburetor is clogged, the oil or air filter is clogged, the head valves are out of adjustment, or the variator or piston group is worn out.

  • A specific knocking sound appeared in the engine during operation.
  • This may be a sign that the bearings have failed and need to be replaced. It may also be due to the need to adjust the valve clearance.

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