Messages [1 to 20 of 140]
1↑ Topic from Sibiryak 10-03-2012 13:20:24
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Subject: Right cylinder not working!!
anyway, I started my jalopy, but the problem is that the right cylinder is not working, the compression is excellent, I changed the spark plugs. what's the matter then! Everything is fine with electronics too!! what's the problem then??
Added: 03/10/2012 10:20:24
Yes, even at maximum speed the engine sneezes. and the engine after a complete overhaul! bulkheads!
2↑ Reply from 230686angel 10-03-2012 13:36:01
- 230686angel
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- Name: Sergey
- From: Balakovo. Saratov region
- Registered: 17-02-2012
- Messages: 577
- Reputation: 17
- Motorcycle: imz 8-103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
there is a spark on the right. the candle is wet. valves were adjusted.
3↑ Reply from Sibiryak 10-03-2012 14:02:44
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
I adjusted the valve! The spark plug is wet, there is a spark!
4↑ Reply from 230686angel 10-03-2012 14:11:19
- 230686angel
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- Name: Sergey
- From: Balakovo. Saratov region
- Registered: 17-02-2012
- Messages: 577
- Reputation: 17
- Motorcycle: imz 8-103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
This means the ignition is not set correctly.
5↑ Reply from Sibiryak 03/10/2012 14:20:06
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
well, somehow. everything starts, everything works except this cylinder!
6↑ Reply from kilowatt3 10-03-2012 15:34:30
- kilowatt3
- Electrician
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- Name: Alexander
- From: Belgorod region Alekseevka
- Registered: 24-03-2011
- Messages: 1 950
- Reputation: 198
- Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 11, but there were different ones and more than one!
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
throw out the spark plug, first and look at the carburetor adjustment; after assembly, did you swap the carburetor flaps right and left?
7↑ Reply from Sibiryak 10-03-2012 16:02:23
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
I didn’t tear the carbs apart, but I did take out the valves!! Is it possible that they don’t work? Because the dampers have been changed?
8↑ Reply from Azat 03/10/2012 16:50:49
- Azate
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- Name: AZAT
- From: KUZNETSK
- Registered: 13-10-2010
- Messages: 1 321
- Reputation: 49
- Motorcycle: Ural ImZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
If everything is fine then try removing the carb. and start him on that potty!! then take some gasoline into a syringe and inject it, if it starts working then that means something is carb moz fuck it. I started mine without carburetors using 150 ml syringes. everything worked.
9↑ Reply from Sibiryak 03/10/2012 16:55:30
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
Azat, where should I put gasoline when I twist the carb? in place of the carb or what? I think it’s a lie because of the carb, but I’ll try! you think he's moping!
10↑ Reply from Azat 10-03-2012 16:58:45
- Azate
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- Name: AZAT
- From: KUZNETSK
- Registered: 13-10-2010
- Messages: 1 321
- Reputation: 49
- Motorcycle: Ural ImZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
Azat, where should I put gasoline when I twist the carb? in place of the carb or what?
yes there. and what kind of carburetors? At first it didn’t work for me either because of the carburetor. Are the valves even adjusted?
Edited by Azat (10-03-2012 16:59:26)
11↑ Reply from 230686angel 10-03-2012 17:07:57
- 230686angel
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- Name: Sergey
- From: Balakovo. Saratov region
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- Motorcycle: imz 8-103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
It must be poured into the hole that remains in the cylinder block. take a syringe and pour it in while the engine is running. works. behind. is. you don't work...
MY MOTORCYCLE
It is hardly possible to surprise anyone today with a disc brake on Ural motorcycles. Of course, this only applies to newer models! But if you try, you can put something on the old man. I want to tell you a little about the disc brake circuit. The info may be a little outdated, but it might be useful:
Currently, two modifications of the front wheel brake have been developed - single-disc and double-disc. The first modification is intended for a single motorcycle, and the second for a sidecar version. Although there may also be a second option on a single person.
In both cases, the design is as unified as possible - the only difference is in the design of the disks and in the methods of attaching them to the wheel. To simplify the design and to avoid complications in the technological process, the brake disc in the single-disc version is installed on the wheel instead of the drum brake pads, while the wheel does not change. A scheme is also provided with a change in the design of the wheel hub, but it is unknown (to me personally) whether it will be used or not. In the version with two discs, the wheel receives a completely updated hub. Let's take a look at the design of a double-disc brake:
Front wheel double disc brake design; 1 - main cylinder; 2 — drive lever; 3 — connecting hoses; 4 - tee; 5 — bracket with pistons; 6 — compound brake disc; 7 — wheel hub; 8 — front fork: 9 — wheel axle; 10 - wheel.
It consists of a master cylinder located on the right handlebar, brake calipers mounted on the movable pipes of the front fork, three hoses and a connecting tee. The design is simple and reliable. Its operating principle is as follows: when the driver presses the lever, the piston of the master cylinder creates pressure, which acts on the brake calipers. The pressure in the system is proportional to the force on the lever: the intensity of braking depends on it. If the lever is released, the piston returns to its original position. The brackets have a so-called “floating” design. When the pressure in the system increases, the piston located in the caliper presses on the brake pad, which rests on the disc. However, the “floating” bracket begins to move to the side and moves the second pad, which, after removing the gap, also rests against the disc, thus beginning the braking process. The gap between the discs and pads always remains constant, regardless of the wear of the latter. Maintenance comes down to replacing worn pads and checking seals. After replacing the pads, sometimes you have to remove air from the system - “bleed” it. I think the robot with this is no different from passing air on foreign cars. And there is plenty of this information on the Internet.
Brake disc assembly for installation instead of a brake drum: 1 - disc; 2 — protective cover; 3 — support bushing; 4 - toothed disc hub; 5 - bearing; 6 - special bolt.
A few words about the design of brake discs. In the single-disc brake version, the disc is made one-piece and ventilated. With a double-disc brake, the hub design has undergone significant changes, and the discs are made of composite parts.
1. Double disc brake of the front wheel. 2. Tee for hydraulic brake drive.
Messages [21 to 40 of 140]
21↑ Reply from 12 14:28:46
- 000
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- Name: Ivan
- From: Volgograd region
- Registered: 20-07-2011
- Messages: 244
- Reputation: 4
- Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 10 36
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
Or check the gaskets, maybe they are leaking. I had this crap. and remove the air vent and start it. see if it spits out gasoline back. It’s possible that I had the same valve, and it seems like I did everything right.
22↑ Reply from Sibiryak 03/11/2012 14:53:43
- Siberian
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- Name: Siberian
- From: Novosibirsk
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 879
- Reputation: 85
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8.103.10
Re: Right cylinder not working!!
My valves are fine!! Everything! It doesn’t seem to be throwing out gas! I followed Yuri’s advice, it seemed like something was starting to work, but intermittently!
23↑ Reply from Azat 03/11/2012 17:51:24
- Azate
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- Name: AZAT
- From: KUZNETSK
- Registered: 13-10-2010
- Messages: 1 321
- Reputation: 49
- Motorcycle: Ural ImZ 8.103.10
11 12 ..
Motorcycle engine cylinders Ural, Dnepr
The left and right cylinders 6 (Fig. 2.2) of the MT 10-32 engine are identical in design. The jacket (shell) of the cylinders is made of aluminum alloy. It is connected by diffusion to a sleeve cast from special cast iron. This makes it possible to significantly reduce the thermal stress of the piston group and ensure its high performance. Cylinder diameter 78+0-04 mm. At the bottom of the cylinder there is a flange with holes for studs, fastening the cylinders and heads to the crankcase. The upper part of the cylinder has an annular collar that fits into the cylindrical section of the head. Between the cylinder and the head there is a gasket 4 made of soft red copper 0.6 mm thick.
Cylinders 3 of the K-750M engine (Fig. 2.8) are cast from cast iron. They are not interchangeable. The left cylinder differs from the right one in the placement of the intake and exhaust valves. In the upper part, the cylinders have bosses with two valves for the intake of the working mixture and the exhaust of exhaust gases. At the bottom of the cylinder there is a flange with six holes through which the cylinder is attached to the engine with studs. Together with the cylinder flange, a valve box is cast, in which valves 13 and their spring 14 are located. In the flange of the left cylinder there is an annular groove with three holes for supplying oil through the oil line into the working area of the cylinder; There are eight threaded holes in the top of the cylinder for attaching the head.
Cylinders 8 (Fig. 2.10) of the M67-36 engine (Ural) are made of cast iron. They have the same design and are interchangeable. In the upper part of the cylinder there are four holes for the head mounting studs and two holes into which the pusher rod tubes are pressed. In addition, the cylinder has a hole for a drain tube through which residual oil drains from the cavity of the cylinder head. The cylinder is attached to the engine crankcase with four studs.
Table 2 1. Size groups of pistons and cylinders
Brand
engine
| Piston group symbol | Piston diameter, mm | Symbol for cylinder group | Cylinder diameter, mm | Gap mm | |
| MT 10-32 | 77,95 | 77,95-77,94 | 1 | 78,61-78,00 | 0,05- |
| 72,96 | 77,96-77,95 | 2 | 78,01-78,01 | 0,05- | |
| 77,97 | 77,97-77,96 | 3 | 78,03-78,02 | 0,05- | |
| 77,98 | 77,98-77,97 | 4 | 78,04-78,03 | 0,05- | |
| K-750M | 77,93 | 77,93-77,92 | 1 | 78,01-78,00 | 0,07- |
| 77,94 | 77,94-77,93 | 2 | 78,02-78,01 | 0,07- | |
| 77,95 | 77,95-77,94 | 3 | 78,03-78,02 | 0,07- | |
| 77,96 | 77,96-77,95 | 4 | 78,04-78,03 | 0,07- | |
| M67-36 | A | 77,92-77,91 | A | Ш1-78.00 | 0,08- |
| IN | 77,93-77,92 | IN | 78,02-78,01 | 0,08- | |
| WITH | 77,94-77,93 | WITH | 78,03-78,02 | 0,08- |
Note: 1. The piston diameter is measured at the bottom of the skirt (below the lower oil scraper ring) perpendicular to the pin axis at a temperature of 20°C 2. If the cylinder is oval and tapered, its diameter is considered to be the smallest diameter.
Rice. 2.16. K-7 engine cylinder: — “Dnepr-12” (right): 1 — conical surface of the valve seat; 2 — plane of the connector with the cylinder head; 3 — plane of the connector with the engine crankcase; 4 — cylinder mirror; 5 - valve guide hole
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