02.08.2017
They are steel. They serve and serve, provided they are installed and adjusted correctly. As practice shows, 28,000 km is far from the limit of their service life; on a Courier with such mileage, all cables (gas, brake, clutch) are in good working order and do not cause any suspicion or desire to change them.
Modern cable sheaths have a plastic tube-sleeve inside. Such cables work very well, easily, and do not require lubrication. However, a little liquid oil won't hurt to prevent the cable from rusting. Do not lubricate such cables with thick lubricants! Dust and fine sand will stick to them, penetrate into the plastic jacket and will tear, wedge and wear out the cable. You will feel it quickly.
The bending of the clip is the result of a fall or a brave force while dragging the motorcycle. The levers on the steering wheel look like their ends are down (not parallel to the steering wheel). In this case, the tip of the cable during operation touches the edges of the installation slot, jams and constantly bends, breaking the cable.
It is difficult for a beginner to notice such a defect - the slots in the levers are located at the bottom. An experienced owner knows that if, when viewed from the front, you can see that the lever is tilted down relative to the steering wheel, then you should, without delay, straighten the place of its attachment, otherwise the cable will not last long.
Lever socket for installing the cable boss. It wears out over time, especially its “blind” part, which leads to cable distortion, bending under load and breaking. Often the cause of accelerated wear of the socket is a manufacturing defect - insufficient depth of the blind hole. On new levers you should immediately drill it deeper; usually you can add 1 or even 2 millimeters. In order not to rip the lever through, it is better to drill while resting the lever on a metal backing. (A small protrusion or hole that appears from excessive deepening of the hole is not terrible.)
The diameter of the drill should be exactly the same or slightly larger than the diameter of the socket. ( mm).
In addition to the above, it is advisable to have bosses of slightly increased length (). Please note: the extension must be “one-sided”. Why? So that the boss does not protrude from the bottom of the lever? - Yes, but this is not the main reason. If the lever breaks and you replace it with a new one in the field, on a long trip you may not have a prepared, drilled lever in stock - and then you will have to put the boss in the new lever “in reverse”, with the short side in the blind part of the hole - then everything is fine will gather.
A few general notes
Control cables are a very good thing. They are much stiffer than hydraulic circuits with rubber hoses (sleeves). Even reinforced, expensive hoses only approach cables in terms of rigidity. However, hydraulics also have advantages.
The hydraulic drive allows you to create multi-circuit, multi-piston brake systems, as well as semi- and automatic combined braking systems, etc. In such systems, hydraulics turn out to be simpler and more reliable than mechanical drives. In simple schemes, for example, in single-piston brake actuators, hydraulics have no advantages over a cable (except, perhaps, for the unification of elements, the use of standard, well-standardized units, and, as a result, the availability of qualified maintenance and repair in any auto repair shop).
In addition, hydraulic drives contain fewer sliding friction pairs, they are easier to protect from dust and sand, and wear less under difficult conditions.
Returning to the question “do they stretch…” - I must say that the cable sheath plays a very important role here. Its serviceability is the key to maintaining the high qualities of the cable drive. The most obvious and annoying defects of the shell are stretching and creases. A cable with such a sheath becomes pliable and “springy”. When you look at the brake pad lever, you can clearly see that it pressed the pads and stopped - and at this time the lever on the steering wheel can still be “pressed”, in the worst case even reaching the stop against the handle. The culprit is the shell. Often, a damaged cable does not even allow, for example, to adjust the brakes - they either “don’t press enough” or constantly “slow down”.
Creases in the cable sheath can be determined by inspection - places of sharp bending are clearly visible. Do not try to straighten such a shell - it will still remain slightly stretched in this place, and the cable will work poorly and not rigidly.
Stretched areas cannot be visually determined - only by the behavior of the cable drive, loss of rigidity, one can indirectly suspect a defect.
In all cases, the only correct solution is to replace the cable sheath, or the entire thing.
The reasons for the appearance of sprains are the rough, “forceful” assembly of the motorcycle, with the application of completely unacceptable tensile forces to the shell. Simply: never pull on the cable sheath with your hands. Another possible cause is motorcycle falls and accidents.)
It happens that over time, scuffs and peeling appear here and there on the outer plastic shell, and rust appears on the exposed spiral steel braid.
If the cable works properly, it is worth taking care of it and “treating it.” Lubricate the bald spots to prevent rust. You can put pieces of heat-shrinkable tubing (sold in radio parts stores) over the defective areas - after heating (for example, with a hot lamp or other method), the tube will tightly cover the shell and will be almost invisible. All this should be done at home/garage by removing the cable from the motorcycle.
Throttle cable: how to properly lubricate and how to adjust the free play of the throttle stick
When independently adjusting the free play of the throttle, it is advisable to first either lubricate the throttle cable or replace it altogether. A throttle cable that has become sour after winter inactivity can cause an emergency situation, which is fraught with the most unpleasant consequences. This motor part cannot be ignored, so we will consider in detail how to lubricate the throttle cable so that this procedure is as effective as possible and minimally dirty.
Regular lubrication of the throttle cable increases the trouble-free service life of the scooter and its safety, since it completely eliminates souring at the most unexpected moment.
Two lubrication methods are most widespread among motorcyclists:
The adjusting bolt located on the steering wheel is fully screwed in. It is necessary to apply a few drops of oil directly to the cable itself (not to be confused with its sheath), and then make forward/backward movements so that the oil spreads along its entire perimeter. This manipulation should be done more than once, since the amount of oil per procedure is quite small, and it is necessary to lubricate it conscientiously. As soon as a certain amount of oil appears at the other end of the cable, lubrication can be considered complete.
In the second option, the throttle cable is disconnected from the carburetor. To do this, you must first remove the boot, unscrew the lock nut and remove the regulator from the hole. After this, the cable can be freely disconnected by threading it through the slit located in the damper drive lever. Next, lift the freed end of the throttle cable above the handle, and, dripping oil, move it. Quite often, experienced scooter riders prefer to use various devices that can significantly simplify the procedure for lubrication of the throttle cable and at the same time make it cleaner. The simplest are a rubber band and a simple plastic bag. The bag must be wrapped around the free end and created from it into a kind of funnel. Secure the entire structure with a rubber band, and then proceed similarly to the method described above: pour oil into the funnel (not a lot) and carefully move it from side to side.
Alternatively, instead of a bag, you can use an empty tube of any sealant. It is more convenient to pour oil into it, since it holds its shape and the spout moves freely along the throttle cable.
IMPORTANT. If there is rust on the cable, then first you should carry out a similar procedure, but instead of oil, pour gasoline or anti-corrosion liquid into the tube. They will remove rust from the surface and only then can lubrication be carried out.
When manipulation under higher pressure is required, a twenty-centimeter piece of rubber hose can be used. It must be selected based on the diameter of the throttle cable so that the rubber tube fits tightly to it. Having secured it with a clamp, lift the hose vertically and connect one end to the pump. Then we begin to pump, but we do it extremely carefully so that the oil (or gasoline) does not splash over a large distance around.
How to independently adjust the free play of the throttle grip
The movement of the throttle is called free when the carburetor damper has not yet been set in motion. The optimal value of free play of the throttle is 0.2…0.6 cm. If this value is exceeded, then during driving the hand will quickly get tired, since the throttle valve will not open completely and with a delay. And, conversely, when the free play is less than expected, it is almost impossible to adjust the idle speed (and it can significantly exceed the norm).
It is necessary to check the free play. By slightly turning the throttle knob, we determine the value. To make further adjustments, remove the boot from the mechanism that regulates the throttle cable. Remove from top to bottom, as carefully as possible so as not to damage the shell. Sometimes it is necessary to heat the shell with a hairdryer, which is used to dry hair.
We slightly unscrew the locknut with an open-end wrench, and then unscrew the adjusting nut (if the free play is large), or tighten it (if it is small). Checking the free play after adjustment is carried out as follows: the carburetor damper drive lever must hit the idle speed adjusting bolt. We tighten the locknut to the original level.
Cleaning cables
Occasionally, at least after 6000 km, after a year or two, the cables need to be washed from dirt and lightly lubricated again. This will not be difficult at all if the cable is removed from the motorcycle. Thus, it is advisable to link the cleaning of cables with routine and repair work, plan in advance, and do not forget about this useful operation when the opportunity arises.
Helpful advice. Two bottles of nefras (flushing gasoline) - and the simplest washing device is ready. The bottles must be securely fastened so that one is higher than the other. Place the ends of the rope in bottles. Blow sharply into the neck of the top bottle until nefras flows from the other end of the rope. After which you can do other things - the flushing nefras will flow by itself in the resulting siphon inside the cable, washing it of dirt and oil. In exceptional cases, one bottle is enough.
Soldering cables
To solder the ends of steel cables you will need acid flux. The most common is zinc (a mixture of zinc chloride and hydrochloric acid). Actually, hydrochloric acid itself would be a fairly good flux - it is easily washed off with water, or simply evaporates without a trace (unlike battery sulfuric acid, which must be thoroughly washed and neutralized with soda.) However, it is better to use acid “etched” with zinc - then after soldering a thin zinc coating will remain on the steel parts as protection against corrosion.
In our garage, as you remember, there is a universal remedy - phosphoric acid. It is not only an excellent flux for soldering stainless steels and bronzes, but also a completely suitable agent for anti-corrosion coating. After its use, protective phosphate films remain on steel parts (like oxide films, but more durable). So, if we are at home, there is no need to look for pickled hydrochloric acid; orthophosphoric acid is quite suitable.
To properly solder the tip of a clutch or brake cable, you need to prepare a wedge from a steel wire at hand (a paper clip, a thin nail, a lady's hairpin). Be sure to sharpen it with a file so that it looks like a thin, long tetrahedral awl. (Like, so to speak, the bayonet of a soldier in the tsarist army.) The wedge should be about 10 mm long, do not cut off the excess part yet. Lubricate the wedge with acid and tin it, completely wipe off excess solder with a rag or shake it off.
The end of the cable must be degreased - rinsed in nefras, slightly warmed up, rinsed again. Heat the tip with a soldering iron and shake out the remaining solder from it with a sharp blow.
Place the tip on the cable, insert the wedge from the end, between the wire strands, with force, as deep as possible. Apply a drop of acid to the end of the cable, and apply molten solder with a soldering iron (or other method). The acid instantly evaporates, the tin-lead solder is absorbed into the cable strands and fills the tip. After cooling, the sealed end must be washed to remove acid residues with warm water or soda solution. Cut off the excess end of the wire wedge, trim the end and smooth it with a file.
Perhaps the solder will penetrate the cable further than the tip, 1-2 centimeters. There is no harm in this, but excess deposits must be removed with a soldering iron or simply carefully cut off with a knife.
The described method - with a wedge - has proven itself in practice. The author resolders all new cables purchased at the store in this way. There are many other ways of sealing tips, as well as ingenious techniques for making tips from scrap materials (nuts, wires, etc.)
Check the tips (caps) of the shell as well. By the way, they are easily removed if necessary. Sometimes the hole in them is made unevenly, and the cable constantly touches and rubs. Fix it.
Finally, about installing cables on a motorcycle. In addition to distortions in the levers and jamming in the grooves, there are other errors. Often, inattentive mechanics screw in the adjusting sleeve (“tensioner”) deeply, so that when the lever is released, the tip of the cable rests against it. This is unacceptable and should be corrected immediately.
It is very important that the cable in its original position is not loaded. This means that the clutch cable must have some minimum slack when the clutch discs do not begin to “squeeze out” immediately, not earlier than the first quarter of the lever stroke. Incorrect adjustment of the clutch drive and constant load on the cable lead to wear of the cable, shell, mounting sockets, the release mechanism itself, and to “floating” clutch settings.
The same applies to the brake drive. Thus, for the excellent disc brake of the ZiD-200 “Courier” motorcycle, the most important condition for smooth and trouble-free operation is sufficient movement of the mechanism, which means that excessive “pulling” of the cable is inadmissible. The tension (an unfortunate term in this case) of the disc brake cable must be such that the brake lever can make a working stroke from its stop, in no way being limited by the drive cable.
As for the gas handle, the requirements are similar, but it should be noted that excessive free play is also unacceptable in this drive. If the adjusters are too loose, the end of the cable may unexpectedly pop out of its socket in the throttle body. And on the ZiD-50 “Pilot” motorcycle, a curious situation can arise when (on a Jikov carburetor) the tip of a weakened cable either falls into its socket or catches on its very edge - and the engine behaves mysteriously, unpredictably and incomprehensibly for the driver - then suddenly produces full power, otherwise it gets lazy...
Messages [19]
1↑ Topic from Student 04/22/2013 15:00:14
- Student
- Assistant
- Inactive
- Name: Ivan
- From: Engels
- Registered: 11-04-2013
- Messages: 267
- Reputation: 3
- Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 10, Dnepr MT 11
Topic: How to properly tension the clutch cable.
I searched the forum, but didn’t find or didn’t notice similar questions. A question has appeared. How to properly tension the clutch cable so as not to overtighten it or become too weak. Who exhibits what?
2↑ Reply from Ural*4uK 04/22/2013 15:32:06
- Ural*4uK
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Igor
- From: Russia, Bryansk region, Mglin
- Registered: 03-03-2012
- Messages: 1 451
- Reputation: 39
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ 8103 with sidecar
Re: How to properly tension the clutch cable.
at the end of the cable, above the box, there are adjusting nuts - you will understand how and where to turn. and on the steering wheel (on the clutch lever) you make a free play of 2-3 mm and that’s it
