Motorcycle clutch and throttle cable, lubrication, repair, lubrication tips

Clutch cable lubrication

Do you grab the clutch handle and can't pull it towards the steering wheel? Are you annoyed by the evil squeaking of the clutch cable? If this is the case, then lubrication of the armor cannot be avoided.

Old-time enthusiasts (but not only them) do not have an easy life: parts tend to rust. And when they rust, the cables inside them squeak, squeal, or work hard. Half the trouble is when it comes to the clutch cable, because in this case the strong springs can easily retract the handle. It's worse when the gas is stuck. Then there is only one thing left: lubrication.

Bowden cables

Since they are properly called couplings or gas lines, they consist of a steel cable running in a metal armor protected on the outside by a layer of plastic. In older motorcycles, the cable usually slides in a metal frame. In newer ones, an additional plastic layer reduces friction and protects the cable from damage and makes handling easier. Typical damage to cables includes a broken ferrule - where it attaches to the handle or roller gas - and shielded armor, which causes water ingress and rusting of the element.

Lubricating the cables is very easy, especially if you have what we have in our hands - a special device thanks to which the operation takes place instantly, since the cables do not need to be disconnected from the motorcycle. When you visit the websites of Larsson, Polo, Hein Gericke or search for “cable lubricator”, you will find a simple but effective solution - the device is inexpensive, so it will not empty your pocket. In addition, the device is universal and fits the diameters of all cables that are on your motorcycle.

Motorcycle cable maintenance, recommendations | tips | photo

Most motorcycles use a cable to connect the throttle/brake.

Motorcycle cable maintenance

Lubrication makes it easier to glide, thereby prolonging its life and making it easier to drive. If the motorcycle is fairly new, you can disconnect the cables and lubricate them. Some companies offer hand-held lubricants in cans that allow you to effortlessly handle the harness without having to remove it. Inject lubricant from the top end of the rope until it starts to come out the other end. It is worth covering the motorcycle with something to prevent grease from getting on the surface.

If it has been a while since last service, remove them for inspection. Consult your owner's manual for specific service procedures for this model. Carefully study the position diagram of each cable, only then disconnect it one by one.

Clean and check for wear, bending and damage; abrasions of the sheath and damage to the cable; or loss of fastening parts. Manually move the strap back and forth to check the fastening. If the plastic sheath is damaged, the interior of the rope is at risk and the entire harness should be replaced. The same should be done if the fasteners are damaged.

Most motorcycles have two cables connecting to the throttles; one is open, the other, on the contrary, is closed as a precaution (if something happened to the first one). It is important to install and maintain them carefully. If you do not have the appropriate tools, proper skills and knowledge, then it is better to entrust this matter to professionals.

Clean and lubricate the clutch and gas lever joints. Do not use a lot of lubricant in order to prevent it from hardening (this can lead to the cable twisting at the end and breaking). Many come with little or no lubrication when purchased, so you should check everything carefully before installing new ones. When lubricating the harness, do not forget to remove the clutch and gas handle, treat them so that it moves smoothly and does not wear out prematurely. Do the same with the brake/clutch lever, even if it doesn't have a cable. Make sure the installation is correct. The tourniquet must be fastened carefully but securely. Most technical manuals in stores contain diagrams; follow the instructions and make sure that after installing everything in place, the lines are not pinched or pinched.

Free position of the cable

The free position is extremely important for the proper operation of the vehicle. First adjust the cable bushing, then the cable from it. An insufficiently loose position of the clutch harness only partially allows it to slide, which leads to its rapid breakage. If the position is too loose, it can make movement difficult. If the brakes are not loose enough, they can cause overheating, slipping, and failure while driving. In general, the brake and clutch handles themselves must be able to operate freely, which is done with some loosening of the cable. The manuals contain cable installation instructions and cable clearance specifications.

Hydraulic system

On most modern motorcycles, the brake handle is connected to the main hydraulic cylinder. Many also use a hydraulic clutch actuator linked to a hydraulic master cylinder. Such systems are usually self-regulating, but require periodic inspection, fluid replacement, and clutch handle lubrication.

The fluid should be changed every 2 years. If your motorcycle has ABS, consult your manual first. Drain old fluid from the master cylinder. Fill with new brake fluid recommended in the manual, usually DOT 3 or 4.

Before driving, check that all parts are in place and that the cylinders are working correctly. Test the front and rear brakes. With the engine idling, turn the steering completely from right to left, check the brake, clutch and gas handles for good fit.

How does it work?

Simply place the device on the top end of the armor and tighten it onto the armor using the special screw. Why top? Because some of the work will be done by gravity. Be careful during assembly so you don't have to wipe any excess oil off your face. Now, in the only visible hole, you place the tip of a spray bottle - such as WD40 or an oil syringe - and slowly press the button. If everything went correctly, after about 2 seconds the cable is lubricated and oil drips from the bottom. It's simple, right? Now all you have to do is insert the cord correctly into the clutch handle or roller gas and that's it.

If you choose the classic cable lubrication method described below, or are replacing the cable with a new one, keep some important questions in mind. The cable armor must not have sharp bends and must be bent to the maximum possible radius. It's best not to reinvent the wheel and drive it exactly as the manufacturer of a particular motorcycle recommends. If you're lucky, you'll find special ears in a frame to attach them to. The cable end should rotate freely in its place in the handle. If this is not the case, the cable will break at the junction with the metal nipple.

Preparing a motorcycle for riding - or: What needs to be done after purchase

And so, the motorcycle has been purchased, but it needs to be prepared :)

First of all, I changed the oil:

The seller gave me Motul 5100 10W40 for the motorcycle, and he filled it up. The factory filled it with preservative oil, roofing felts of some kind of the wildest quality, but my father said that it felt like salidol diluted with kerosene xD

FAQ: It’s simple, the engine has warmed up a little, unscrewed the engine protection, unscrewed the drain bolt, let the oil drain under different inclinations of the motorcycle, press on the fork, on the rear, swing it from right to left. I poured 1 liter according to the marks in the inspection window (the dipstick is Chinese, there is no trust in it, and the manual says to navigate by the inspection window). It is better to immediately buy and place an aluminum washer under the drain bolt.

Adjusted chain tension

It was stretched like a string, you can ruin the bearings in one go, and plus the whole bike feels very rigid (in terms of suspension).

FAQ: Again, everything is simple: we loosen the wheel mounting bolt on the left side, using the nuts of the chain tensioner, I adjust it so that under my weight the movement up or down is 2.5 cm (on sports and road bikes, the chain almost does not change its tension under the weight of the rider, in Enduro suspensions are such that when you sit down, the chain immediately tightens, and if you set it up under no load, sitting on it, you will get a overtightened chain). After the adjustments, I rolled the bike back and forth until everything was seated, and checked the tension again. Then, using a caliper, I aligned the wheel in the center of the pendulum (I measured from the pendulum to the rim so that the distances on both sides were the same). I tighten the bolt back. After tightening the bolt, the chain is also slightly tightened.

The front brake hose ran directly above the center of the dashboard:

FAQ: I loosened the hose mounting bolt quite a bit - turn it so that the hose does not interfere with the tidy. We press it back. Now it runs along the crossbar of my steering wheel.

Lubricated the clutch and throttle cables

(although something like lubricant was visible under the clutch handle - it’s fake, the cables are COMPLETELY DRY, unlubricated - people broke quite quickly) What I lubricated with: graphite mixed with the transmission

Clutch cable lubrication

FAQ: We completely remove the cable, unscrew the cable adjusting nut at the engine, move the rubber band aside, remove the cable (I fixed the lever with a stick to remove the cable).

We release the cable from the adjusting drum at the clutch handle.

We take out the cable, remembering how it is routed through the frame and traverse.

The inlet hole of the cable on the engine side is quite large - it’s easy to fill in the lubricant (I used a syringe).

We fill in the lubricant so that it begins to flow out from the other side, rotating, bending it and moving the cable in the jacket back and forth for complete lubrication.

Reassembling in reverse order.

I lubricated the inside of the clutch handle with silicone grease , and also sprayed the rubber on the cable near the engine inside with silicone grease (the cable began to fly into it like clockwork :) without friction)

Throttle cable lubrication

FAQ: It’s more complicated here, because the cable goes into the carburetor, and you can’t easily get into it. To remove the cable, you need to: Remove the seat, remove the plastic, remove the tank.

The main thing is to remember what was unscrewed where, the sequence, it’s better to take a photo of how it was.

I didn’t remove the tank completely, I’m too lazy to bother with shutting off the fuel, I moved it to the side and held it suspended, don’t forget to disconnect the connector before doing this so as not to accidentally tear it out.

Unscrew the carburetor cover and use pliers to disconnect the cable.

We disassemble the gas handle and remove the cable. We lubricate the cable, just like with the clutch, BUT, but not from the carburetor side, because there along the cable, oil can drain into the carburetor and get inside, in general, be careful there. Reassemble in reverse order.

At the same time, I remembered
the position of the needle from the factory: 2 mark from the bottom out of 5.

also lubricated the gas handle inside (under the white plastic and where the cable is) with silicone grease , now it turns easily and pleasantly

By the way, under the plastic, the tank still has an ebb/groove so that gasoline flows forward rather than under the seat.

There are also holes for air in the tank cap, but they are made in such a way that if you tilt too much, gasoline will just flow out of there in a stream... you can catch fire and explode xD joke ahahaha

There was a rubber noise (squealing, clanging), and yes, it was rubber noise - because it was the rubber bands in the wheel axles making noise.

I removed it and simply sprayed it with silicone grease , being careful not to get it on the rotors/calipers.

Replaced the clamps on the fuel system, on the normal ones, there were these little ones made of wire that don’t compress at all...

Lubricated the chain

MOTUL C3 Chain Lube Off Road chain lubricant. It is lubricated only between the plates at the link joints (not outside the chain, not along the cylinders).
And finally, a photo of the X250 naked :)

Next is adjusting the light, but that will be a separate post later.

And now for a ride :)

Old style

old way to lubricate the clutch cable

One of the oldest methods for lubricating cables was a patent using a funnel. The cable is inserted from the bottom of the funnel, and the connection is sealed, for example, with a soft tube or electrical tape. You pour a little oil into the funnel (2-3 cm3) and leave this complex structure hanging on the funnel overnight. The oil will slowly drain between the cable and the armor. This method is best used for older type armor - without a plastic insert between the cable and the armor frame. Don't forget to put something under the other end of the armor so you don't have to start cleaning the floor the next day.

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