Izh Jupiter 5 cylinder fails when heated

Moto Expert

Messages: 2715 You have been thanked: 318 times in 297 messages Registered: 01/11/09 Since registration: 4673

mikser95 , this is how it is recommended to configure IL.

Warm up the engine to operating temperature. Use the mixture quality and quantity screws to set the minimum but stable engine speed. Compare the operation patterns of the left and right cylinders by ear and by the type of exhaust gases. If the difference is obvious, turn the adjusting washer (which is located between the carburetor and the cylinder pipe) to achieve approximately the same operation of both cylinders.

Check the adjustment results like this. Start the engine. Remove the spark plug cap from one cylinder and try to start and drive for a short distance in first and second gears. Repeat the same when the engine is running on the other cylinder.

If this can be done without difficulty, we can assume that the engine is developing the required power. Otherwise, it makes sense to thoroughly check the carburetor. And to make sure it’s his fault, try installing another one that is known to be good from a friend’s car.

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MY MOTORCYCLE

This problem often happens on IZH motorcycles! Why does this happen! The fact is that the main reason may be that the motorcycle was made in Sovka. If on a four-stroke engine we can regulate the operation of each cylinder with a separate carburetor, and thereby eliminate inaccuracies in the manufacture of parts, then this is not the case.

No matter how the factory tried to make each cylinder as accurately as possible, there were still errors and this negatively affected the engines of these motorcycles (this can occur not only on IZHs). Moreover, on two-stroke engines with only carbon fiber, you can no longer adjust it as necessary.

The cylinders themselves are more complex here and the likelihood of a difference between left and right is greater. When casting, the channels will certainly turn out to be at least slightly different; the gaskets may be misaligned in some way; the same carbon fiber may be slightly skewed, or the same error in one of the channels. After all, let's be honest - in Soviet production they were not very worried about quality. And, if you put everything together, you get a “hernia” in the engine’s operation - one cylinder may work “reluctantly”.

There is an option to get rid of this problem using a mixture regulator, which was installed on IZH-Jupiter motorcycles (and if still alive))))) between the carburetor pipe and the carburetor. But this may not always be echinacea for the engine (I repeat: if this unit still exists on your motorcycle)))))). Often in this way it was possible to eliminate uneven operation at idle, but it does not work at higher speeds. Or vice versa. Therefore, it is better to remove the carburetor pipe and cylinders and check the quality of the channels, polish all transitions and roundings, equalize the cross sections if possible, that is, remove all obstacles in the path of the mixture. And after that, set the ignition timing more precisely for both cylinders.

Also, during operation, unevenness can occur due to a violation of the tightness along the path of the mixture flow (rupture of gaskets or failure of seals) or a change in the flow area of the channels due to carbon deposits. It may also be the cause of uneven wear on pistons, rings, and cylinders. Here it is better not to finish off the engine, but to treat it with repairs.

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About the motorcycle

I bought a motorcycle in the fall of 2012 in a neighboring village, based on an ad on the Internet. According to the photo on the Internet, the outside appearance was normal, at that time it still had the lining of the 4th model, or rather the engine from the 5th model stood on the frame of the 4th model. Also, the owner of the motorcycle gave the engine from the 4th model in addition, and the frame from the 5th model, which was taken later. When I came to buy it, the motorcycle was dirty. Despite this, it started from the first push - honestly, I didn’t expect it. The motor worked well. I asked for a ride. The engine pulled well. after all this we decided to buy it, since I didn’t have much of a choice. After the purchase, while driving home, the right cylinder failed halfway home. The engine overheated greatly and started smoking, I stopped and turned off the engine. After stopping, I tried to start the engine, but it was no use, it wouldn’t even start. And it wouldn't start at all. As usual, based on experience on the old Riga moped, I tried to do everything, checked the spark plugs, there was a spark, adjusted the ignition, and generally tricked it for half an hour. Started up. but the right cylinder still did not work. To avoid a wedge, we had to tow it by car the rest of the way. After arriving, I took off the stroller (yes, she has a light blue stroller) and started tinkering with this contact ignition. I changed the capacitor, reconfigured the ignition, installed normal working BOSCH spark plugs from the car. I'm trying to start it. I fired it up several times, and lo and behold, it started up and worked on both boilers! My joy knew no bounds, the engine roared cheerfully. Then I filled up with more gasoline and went for a ride with friends in my village. While I was riding, I was happy and smiling that I finally had my own normal motorcycle. I wasn’t driving fast, I was afraid to turn the handle more, the motorcycle was very fast for me. A month later, they brought a frame from model 5 without an engine, partially rearranged the trim from it... I installed a contactless ignition system on the hall sensor from a VAZ in the same year, and later soldered the optical sensor. The next year, the engine jammed, I had to inject it, and in one go I changed the consumables (except for the pistons). After reassembly, I completely got rid of the problem of the pot not working. The engine became faster and pulled many times stronger than before. In the summer I changed the pistons, tuned the panel a little, rearranged the lining from 4, prepared the lining from 5 for painting, bought the missing parts (carrots, covers, etc.) The motorcycle was then completely disassembled to paint the frame. The painting of the frame was completed back in August 2013, I started assembling the motorcycle, I really wanted to ride =). I bought turn signals, completely reassembled the wiring, adjusted the lights, and at the same time rode it without lining (it had a tank from 4 and a saddle). Later, in September 2013, we completed painting the cladding from model 5. a week after painting I installed everything on IZh. Well, so to speak, subscribe!! There will be a lot more interesting things, you can learn a lot, take it for yourself. Good luck with your improvements!

Izh Jupiter 5 right cylinder does not work

Installing a contactless ignition system on Izh Jupiter-5 is a fairly current topic. When setting up a BSZ on Izh Jupiter-5 BSZ, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that can significantly affect the operation of the equipment used.

What advantages open up to users who decide to install electronic ignition on the Izh Jupiter are described below.

Most modern motorcycles are not equipped with cams, that is, breakers. Why did the manufacturer consider them unnecessary for currently sold models? The answer is quite simple. This system is not very reliable.

Many parts used in the system are sources of trouble. The most common ones are listed below:

The ignition gaps change their original position while driving a few days after adjustment;
A spark occurs every once in a while, since the contacts regularly burn out;
Capacitors are constantly damaged;
Low spark power;
If you add two or three volts to the battery, it is quite difficult to start it. Such ignition is the reason for constant repairs while driving.

Many people mistakenly believe that it is very difficult to implement BSZ Sovek on Izh Jupiter 5. As a rule, it takes more time to purchase the necessary spare parts than to install the BSZ on Izh. Of course, after implantation, performance changes significantly in the best direction.

This is noticeable at idle. The speed of their passage has noticeably increased and the unnatural twitching has disappeared. The characteristic knocking sounds of iron components in the crankcase and accompanying detonations also disappeared. The handling of the Jupiter 5 motorcycle will improve simultaneously with the time it takes to gain speed.

Motorsport → JUPITER 5 WORKS ON ONE CYLINDER! HELP WITH ADVICE!

Myth one. “If Jupiter Rings, then the fingers are worn out and the engine requires repair” An old topic that has been sucked a hundred times. The Jupiter air engine MUST knock at idle (no load). This is a feature, not a breakdown. The piston is not balanced and, when moving, knocks its sides against the cylinder walls. By the way, this disgrace has already been fixed on liquid-cooled engines - there the pin in the piston is shifted 6 mm upward to the bottom. There is no knock. If the Jupiter does not knock, then it is either converted to fit pistons from “dropsy” (this is possible, but unlikely :)), or the gap between the cylinder and the piston is simply small (usually less than 0.1mm). The minimum air gap should be 0.15 - no less, otherwise you will suffer from constant thermal seizures when driving for a long time at a speed of more than 80 km/h :). It’s better to ring than to jam somewhere far from civilization. And if you feel the urge to sell a motorcycle and the dad who buys your bike for your son doesn’t agree with this fact and assures you that your “fingers” are worn out, you don’t prove anything, because as a rule, dads are all smart and don’t want to listen to anything - “they’re they ate the dog when they were young,” and it’s easier not to argue, but to buy solid lubricant from the MC2000 store, remove the cylinders and lubricate the pistons with it. The gap will be eliminated, and so will the knock. Checked, the motorcycle is for sale immediately :). Myth two. “On Jupiter one cylinder is constantly malfunctioning.” Which? - as a rule, the speaker does not specify :). Well what can I say. Yes, it happens that a completely worn-out right bearing of the right crankshaft hits to such an extent that at high speeds the eccentric hits, and the cams meet, well, not at the desired ignition timing. Farts are heard at speeds above average (or even lower, when the patient is more dead than alive), and the engine becomes terribly dull. This problem is solved once and for all by installing a Hall sensor from a VAZ; a broken bearing will not remind you of itself and will allow you to calmly get home, or drive until it destroys everything else around it. :) But as a rule, the matter is different. Jupiter is two identical motors connected by a flywheel. EXAMPLE: a boy is riding on Jupiter; for example, his candle breaks. One cylinder stalls, but the guy doesn’t care, and he drives on, the coil closes, discharging in itself. Having finally begun to understand the cause of the “glitches,” the boy for a long time cannot find a breakdown in the character “it works, sometimes it doesn’t work.” He tells all his friends what a bad motorcycle Jupiter is, and buys a planet, which, if the engine stalls, does not move, unlike Jupiter, which in this case continues to move. (IMHO this is a huge plus). The point is purely in the user's attitude, and in the elementary understanding that if a cylinder has stalled, then it has stalled not because there are two of them, but because it has simply stalled :). and we need to figure it out, and not ride on another survivor. Jupiter is two motors. That's all.

Myth three. “Yu4 is the most unfortunate Jupiter, and it’s better not to mess with it at all.” This is partly true. At the factory, quite a few shortcomings were implemented in this version of the product, such as weak, due to technological manufacturing features, crankshafts with “reinforced” lower connecting rod heads, or a final drive with a narrow chain... but where did you see Yu4 In its original configuration. Many people probably already have Yu5 shafts, and a clutch too. And if both are equipped with “new” spare parts from the store, both of them will have the same “reliability”. In general, I do not recommend buying spare parts in a store. Especially on the CPG. I have cylinders on Yu4 with purging from Yu5 (including in the seat). cause nothing but horror. not to mention the quality of workmanship of this artisanal scrap metal. And from the gaskets for the cylinder with holes punched under the Y4 cylinder, and the blowing under the Y5, I generally beat in ecstasy. Crankshafts from the store last a maximum of 2000 km, and the forks on the box break and destroy the crankcase, jamming the gearbox. I advise you to buy motorcycles for spare parts at parking lots - many of them have original spare parts in the engine. They will last many times longer than store-bought ones. Collapse branch

Required Parts

In order for the ignition system to work correctly, a number of auxiliary parts are required. They are listed below:

Switch for BSZ VAZ cars. You should not choose exclusively from the low price segment. The Astro switch has a lot of positive reviews;
Hall Sensor. The best option for Jupiter 5 is a similar manufacturer VAZ. By purchasing it in branded packaging, you protect yourself from counterfeits;
Ignition coil with two terminals. You should choose between the gazelle engine number 406 or Oka with an electronic ignition system;
A pair of silicone armor wires with rubber caps;
The modulator is a butterfly-shaped plate made of iron.

Modulator

The most difficult stage is the production of the modulator. It is important to maintain the required shape. The more accurately the required dimensions are observed, the lower the likelihood of problems occurring after the system is implemented, that is, there will be no need to adjust it with a file. The ignition timing must match on any cylinder used.

The bolt hole must be located in the middle. Otherwise, the engine operation will not be synchronized. It is also recommended to check the integrity of the crankshaft bearings. If you find defects, you should immediately replace it.

The contact ignition is not able to work normally if the bearings are damaged. The thickness of the part should not exceed one and a half millimeters. If it is thin, it will not be possible to avoid deformation, and if it is thick, it will come into contact with the surface of the hall sensor housing.

To create the plate, it is allowed to use any material except steel. Aluminum and others should not be used as they are not magnetic. The drawing that must be followed can be found in the public domain. The presented diagram will be useful to those people who decide to modernize the vehicle ignition device. Below are methods for installing electrical ignition devices in Jupiter.

It must be turned by a professional turner. He will make a simple disk and draw on it the markings of elementary distances between the corners. Then, in accordance with it, you will cut out the necessary sectors at home. The cost of the modulator is seventy rubles.

It is not advisable to use an ordinary plate, since its width is less than twelve millimeters. This will not be enough to fully accumulate the energy resource in the coil. Of course, it can be installed, but achieving four thousand revolutions per minute will become impossible.

In addition to the above you will need:

A stud with an applied thread of seven millimeters, pitch 1, as well as a pair of nuts with washers of the corresponding parameters. The priority material for these components is brass. This is explained by the least magnetization of the plate from the generator rotor. If you use a standard bolt, then difficulties may arise with the introduction of ignition. The bolt tends to follow the modulator as it is tightened. However, it is necessary to observe the leading indicator, maintain the same position of the rotor and modulator, and tighten the bolt. It is advisable to use a pin, since many are not able to perform all the necessary actions in total;
A set of wires with connectors for ignition without contact from VAZ. This part can be purchased or made with your own hands.

Comments

on Jupiter 5, the spark of the left boiler disappears on the contacts, how does it disappear and the boiler on the right immediately fails, the right one works stably! could it be a capacitor?

One contact on Izh U5 sparks strongly, how can I fix it?

The right cylinder does not work, when you remove the spark plug and bring it to the spark plug, a spark strikes and starts working, put it on completely - it does not work!

System assembly and installation

The contacts in the breaker, the capacitor, the ignition bobbins and the armor wires, which are part of the previous ignition device, are probably eliminated. The switch should be installed in the glove compartment on the right, and the ignition coil directly under the tank. There are no gaps for fastening on the reel, which means it can be attached using a thick layer of adhesive tape. The standard bolt is also eliminated along with other parts.

In place of the bolt, install a pin of the specified size and put on a washer. Then, the rotor is tightened with a nut located at its end. The hall sensor is attached to the stator by any means. The basic rule when installing it is to set the optimal cross-sectional distance of the modulator and the ratio of the radius and line of symmetry.

When the hall sensor can be secured, we apply the modulator. It should fit into the hole made in the sensor. In most situations, there is a discrepancy between the sizes, so it is necessary to place washers on the stud. If you manage to maintain the required gap, it is recommended to install an engraver and tighten the modulator with a third-party nut.

Ignition adjustment Izh Jupiter - 5

After all the adjustment manipulations are done, the turn comes for an operation called Izh Jupiter-5 - ignition adjustment.

It is better to produce from the following devices:

Device K-25 - has an indicator head that fits into the holes for spark plugs or bushings and a knob with divisions from the tool
Lamps 12 V, 2 W - with their help you can determine the moment of opening the necessary contacts of the breakers. The lamp must be connected to ground and the breaker terminal of the corresponding cylinder (for this, lamps with wires are used at the end), on which the ignition timing is adjusted.

Adjusting the ignition of the Izh-Planet motorcycle

There is no need to tell you once again how difficult it is to start a “planet” with an incorrectly adjusted ignition. There were all sorts of funny things that happened because of a faulty ignition, some people’s sneakers flew high into the sky, some people’s shoe soles burst, sometimes there were even injuries, and very serious ones, there were even cases when the engine started in the opposite direction. All these troubles with the winding claw kicking back into your foot can be avoided if you adjust the ignition timing in a timely manner.

It is most convenient to make adjustments using a special device, which was once supplied by the manufacturer with every motorcycle; those days, as we know, are long gone, therefore, in order not to waste time looking for a device, you can get by with an ordinary caliper.

We begin work on setting up the ignition by adjusting the gap between the contacts of the breaker (0.4-0.6 mm). To do this: turn the crankshaft by the generator rotor bolt so that the contacts of the breaker diverge as much as possible.

We unscrew the bolt fixing the contact gap and use an eccentric to separate the contacts so that we can insert the feeler gauge between them, and slowly use the eccentric to clamp the feeler gauge so that it moves in and out with little effort. After adjustment, we tighten everything well and move on to adjusting the ignition timing.

We find the top dead center, insert the bore gauge into the spark plug hole (you must try to ensure that the bore gauge probe rests exactly on the center of the piston bottom), measure the depth, then extend the bore gauge by 3.5-4 mm, turn the crankshaft about a quarter turn counterclockwise, insert the bore gauge into the spark plug hole, and turning the crankshaft clockwise until it hits the bore gauge, this will be the ignition timing we need.

After we have set the ignition timing, let's now set the moment of opening the contacts at this position of the crankshaft, for this: loosen (just not much) first this bolt.

We take any low-power light bulb and connect it with one wire to the ground of the motorcycle and the other wire to the wire suitable for the breaker.

After we have loosened the bolts on the contacts, we need to turn the contacts all the way clockwise (the light should go out), then slowly turn the contacts counterclockwise until the light comes on, this will be the moment we need during which a spark will jump ( 3.5-4mm) to top dead center.

Final actions

You should put rubber caps on the armor wires, and insert the latter into the candlesticks or coil above. If you skip this step, the motorcycle will stall when riding in rainy weather, as moisture will get into the battery.

By inserting spark plugs into the tip, it will be possible to maintain excellent contact between the battery and the volume of the vehicle. Now you will need a pre-purchased set of wires. The switch, coil and hall sensor are connected by wiring. She needs to be isolated. Of the entire mass, only a common plus is required.

Setting up contact ignition on Izh Jupiter - 5

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to set up contact ignition on this device:

Align the piston of the desired cylinder: - insert a screwdriver into the cylinder - rotate the crankshaft while holding the screwdriver
Take a ruler and place it next to the screwdriver.
Rotate the crankshaft, holding the screwdriver down with your finger so that it is level. We find a dead point.
Turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction (1.5-2 mm).
A spark is generated when the cam opens, locate the two adjusting bolts.
Take a light bulb with two contacts, connect one to ground, the other to the contact.
Turn on the ignition switch.
You need to find the moment when the light comes on (the moment it lights up, the start occurs), and when it goes out, the contact closes on the contrary.
Turn off the ignition, do and adjust the same with the second cylinder

Motorcycle malfunctions - the engine does not start

The engine may also not start if there is excess fuel in the cylinders, especially on a hot engine.

There is no sparking on the spark plug electrodes

After making sure that the ignition key is inserted all the way (the control lamp is on and the signal is working), unscrew the spark plugs, check the gap between the electrodes and, connecting their bodies to ground, press the trigger lever several times. If there is a fairly good spark between the electrodes of the spark plugs, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the engine power system.

If during this check there is no spark between the electrodes of the spark plugs or it is very weak, then it is necessary:

Make sure the battery is charged; The control lamp should be fully illuminated and not go out when the signal is turned on.
Check the reliability of the battery contacts.
Test the fuse for serviceability.
Remove the tip of the high voltage wire from the spark plug, bring it to the ground at a distance of 1.5-2 mm and, pressing the trigger lever, check for the presence of a spark between the ground and the tip. The presence of which indicates a faulty spark plug (insulation breakdown) that should be replaced. If there is no spark, make sure that the high voltage wires are in good condition.
Inspect the condition, clean and adjust the gap between the breaker contacts.
If necessary, replace the anvil and hammer.
Turn on the ignition and open the breaker contacts by hand. If a yellow weak spark jumps between them or there is no spark, then replace the capacitor.
If after performing all the previous operations there is still no spark, then the ignition coil should be replaced.

There is no fuel supply to the motorcycle carburetor

We press the drowner and fill the float chamber to make sure that fuel is present. If there is no fuel, check the serviceability of the carburetors themselves. If there is no filling, it is necessary to find the fault and eliminate it.

Check the presence of gasoline in the tank and its quality (the presence of water, large amounts of oil and mechanical impurities is unacceptable).
Inspect and, if necessary, clean the air hole in the fuel tank cap.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the carburetors and blow them out one at a time with compressed air.
Remove the sump and fuel tap filter, disassemble, wash in gasoline and after assembly blow with compressed air.

Carburetors are faulty or misadjusted

Remove, disassemble, wash the parts in gasoline and blow out the jets with compressed air.
Reinstall and check the fuel level in the float chambers. When installing, pay attention to the condition of the gaskets and the reliability of tightening the nuts securing the carburetor to the cylinders.
make quality adjustments as stated in the instructions.

Izh Jupiter 5 cylinder failed

Post by jesvi » Jul 28, 2022, 12:03 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by assistant » Jul 28, 2022, 8:31 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by jesvi » Jul 28, 2022, 9:49 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by Aleks1978 » Jul 28, 2022, 9:58 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by assistant » Jul 29, 2022, 5:45 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by Chezara » Jul 30, 2022, 08:00

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by valerazaz » Jul 30, 2022, 6:30 pm

It’s better to install any car coils, and BSZ for any reason and you can forget about the hassle with ignitions for a long time

spark plugs are also car spark plugs with long threads

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by assistant » Jul 30, 2022, 8:33 pm

It’s better to install any car coils, and BSZ for any reason and you can forget about the hassle with ignitions for a long time

spark plugs are also car spark plugs with long threads

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by JUK » Jul 30, 2022, 9:39 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Message route 66 » 30 Jul 2022, 21:46

It’s better to install any car coils, and BSZ for any reason and you can forget about the hassle with ignitions for a long time

spark plugs are also car spark plugs with long threads

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by Dr_Hammer » 31 Jul 2022, 09:43

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by assistant » Jul 31, 2022, 12:10 pm

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by valerazaz » 02 Aug 2022, 20:18

justify everything simply with better quality automobiles once installed and scored for the season

and I have goujons, candles with short threads no longer

You can remove the threads in the head using a candle with a thread

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by assistant » 02 Aug 2022, 21:28

justify everything simply with better quality automobiles once installed and scored for the season

and I have goujons, candles with short threads no longer

You can remove the threads in the head using a candle with a thread

Re: Jupiter 5. one cylinder is not working well

Post by valerazaz » 02 Aug 2022, 23:21

what a shame?, from practice, car spark plugs are better and the threads were ruined before me,

Auto coils are also a waste?

One Jupiter 3 cylinder does not work

#1 Post by mercc » Mon Jun 20, 2011 07:46

Good afternoon everyone. On my motorcycle, the right cylinder failed, and the left one began to work intermittently (it doesn’t understand how it picks up speed in neutral). I changed the capacitors and the contact group, everything worked for 2 days, but then the same thing happened again. The coils are fine, there is a spark. How to make both work cylinder? :unknw:

P.S: everything stopped working as soon as I put it up for sale (((

Re: One cylinder of Jupiter 3 does not work

#2 Post by Samurai_Jack » Mon Jun 20, 2011 07:59

Re: One cylinder of Jupiter 3 does not work

#3 Post by mercc » Mon Jun 20, 2011 08:02

The carb was adjusted, the ignition was also tuned up (this happened later) and it started working after a while, that is, it works for 2 seconds and then turns off again, compression seems to be normal

Added after 1 minute 16 seconds: 2 mm before TDC is the norm?

Re: One cylinder of Jupiter 3 does not work

#4 Post by karmoran » Mon Jun 20, 2011 08:13

Re: One cylinder of Jupiter 3 does not work

#5 Post by mercc » Mon Jun 20, 2011 08:17

Re: One cylinder of Jupiter 3 does not work

#6 Post by DiMoN_PW » Mon Jun 20, 2011 08:25

According to the manual, it seems like it should have been done earlier. I always set it 3mm before the TTM, it worked better at high speeds, and started better too. In general, look in order: 1. Ignition (spark, torque) 2. State of the mixture (carbs, intake manifold tightness) 3. Compression (and for 2-stroke engines, I would also advise checking the crankshaft seals. In the cylinders, compression may be normal, but in the crank chamber, blow everything out (there is also a leaky cover under the generator armature))

Added after 1 minute 39 seconds: As for the seals, karmoran is ahead. )))

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