MY MOTORCYCLE
Irbit “Ural” and Kiev (“Dnepr”) are among the most popular motorcycles of the Soviet era of motorcycle construction, which never caught up with other motorcycle giants of the world. But that's not what we're talking about now. So, these two opposites can be found everywhere and the most interesting thing is that even though, like, different models are still very little different from each other. And they have the same ancestor. And the question often arises, especially for beginners: are the parts interchangeable?!
This is where a discrepancy arises - there is no need to talk about complete interchangeability of parts. Unless you move the motors from one frame to another. Here everything is adjusted and fits.
Let’s look at what is more or less suitable below:
Engine and power system on motorcycles
Without any alteration, the following can be considered interchangeable: carburetors, piston rings, connecting rod upper end bushings, piston pin and its retaining rings, valve springs and their retainers, as well as all clutch parts except the flywheel. Conventionally, the pistons can also be considered interchangeable, but in the case of installing KMZ pistons on a Ural motorcycle, you will have to cut the skirt (for example, along the lower oil scraper ring). Complete engines are also interchangeable, but together with the “original” exhaust pipes.
Transmission.
The driven gear, speedometer drive gear and some bearings are interchangeable (see tables in the appendix). And it’s best to rearrange the gearbox assembly - here almost everything fits fine - some nuances arise with the driveshafts. The fact is that the “Ural” checkpoint is shorter than the “Dneprovskaya”. There are probably not many people who want to install an Irbit gearbox on KMZ motorcycles, and in order to install a gearbox from the Dnepr on a Ural, you must either replace the “native” cardan with a shorter one, from the M61 or M62, or use the assembly from the KMZ - seats on the shanks are identical. I’ll even note that the Dnieper box will be a little better than the Ural box.
Final drive (“axle”) on motorcycles
Despite the different external shapes and slight differences in the drive of the brake pads, the axles are interchangeable. Problems with the number and diameter of studs securing the main gear to the pendulum can be solved quite simply with the help of a drill and taps. All parts hidden inside the “bridge” are also interchangeable, although they may have slight differences depending on the age of the unit. In the case of installing a “Dnepr” “bridge” on a “Ural” motorcycle, a rear wheel from a “Dnepr” may also be required, since the “Ural” wheel is multi-spoke and can rub the brake drum against the fist.
Chassis.
The front telescopic forks and spring-hydraulic suspension elements of the rear wheel and sidecar wheels are absolutely identical on motorcycles. These units are interchangeable both as a whole and in small details. But you need to avoid the combination of a “Ural” wheel with a stamped brake drum and “Dnieper” brake shields; the reverse combination is absolutely workable. If we consider the wheel as a set of parts, then the rim and all the insides of the hub can be considered the same: bearings, spacers and nuts with oil seals.
Electrical components on motorcycles can be considered absolutely identical: a generator, a relay regulator, a breaker with an automatic advancer, an ignition coil, as well as all lighting equipment and switches on the handlebars.
They are different in shape, but have the same seats: a gas tank, a front fender, a double saddle (you will need to rotate the saddle lock on the frame 180°), a steering wheel with fasteners and a stroller awning.
Sidecars on motorcycles fit quite normally from one motorcycle to another (after all, the fasteners are the same), except that you can adjust the traction a little! Although I’ll interject again: I have an old-style frame on the K-750 and the Ural sidecar was positioned a little incorrectly - the motorcycle stood at an angle from the sidecar, so I had to shorten the rear link a little (the adjusting bolt was not enough, it was screwed in all the way). Trimmed it a little, welded it - now it stands like its own! By the way, I like the Ural strollers better - the MT strollers are uncomfortable and there is no separate luggage compartment in the back!)))))
Source
Construction of the Ural-Murovye
Good night everybody. So I decided to make a three-wheeled cargo vehicle from my Ural, similar to the Murovei motor scooter. I want to build it on the frame of the Urals, with its own engine and gearbox, and a bridge from a classic (which one would you recommend, Moskvich 412 or Vazovsky and which model). I also want to know whether it is worth locking the differential and what consequences should be expected. Also, is it necessary to install 2 gearboxes from the same Moskvich or VAZ. I ask the majors not to comment, I do it specifically for work, that is, for traction, since I live in the village, such a unit would be very helpful, we have a lot of land to cultivate manually, it takes a long time, and it’s difficult. I know that there is a special cargo Ural Hercules, but in our lands we have never seen anything like it. I ask for advice, and not comments like “you’re a student, go learn your lessons,” “it’s all a collective farm,” and the like.
Sosbsna it’s worth locking the differential if you plan to drive through shit, here’s a photo of the trike
the buddy collected it and cooked it. I’ll tell you what I know: a bridge from a classic (inverted type), telescopic cardan, crosspieces on the box and on the bridge, rear suspension on springs from vases) if any other information is needed, I’ll answer in gears.. isn’t it easier to find an ant?
We haven’t seen ants since Soviet times either, only two-wheeled Tulas.
Shkolota go learn your homework
You too. I forgot the punctuation marks.
I just quoted the author, preserving the original version
A trike is not suitable for utility work, do this https://forum.atvclub.ru/showthread.php?43904
I agree with Damp, a trike for rural areas is very inconvenient (it cuts three tracks), I cooked myself a four-wheeled miracle from the remains of a penny
I completely agree with you, but this is more complicated, and this is my first modification, and I won’t be able to get such remains of the car on my own, I have the bridges. For now I want to build a fight, let it work for a season, and by the second I will already know what to change and what to add.
Good luck with the build! Mine also didn’t immediately become a quad, I suffered for two seasons on three wheels, until I had a vacation in December and, having nothing else to do, decided to overhaul the front end.
I'm waiting for advice on the 2nd gearbox from the car, should I install it or not? And who knows how to calculate the speed and traction when installing an auto bridge.
I’ll advise, maybe they won’t send it. If you install wheels from a car, the second box will not be needed 200%, because... dia. There are fewer of them than motor wheels. The speed will be approximately 60-70 km/h. The traction is also enough for the eyes. The bridge will have to be turned over, so as not to be tricky with the fasteners, overcooking them, you turn the gearbox 180 degrees (upside down), you will have to cut a recess for the sun gear, not a lot of work. Everything fits. Regarding the fact that the trike rides poorly, cuts three tracks and all that - a trike has much better cross-country ability than a four-wheeler (IF THE DRIVE IS NOT DRIVEN), because there is no overhang of the wheels when tilted, the weight is approximately the same on both wheels (I drowned in the swamp with one wheel, one stuck out of the mud about 15 cm, the second 50 cm, but both were spinning (wheel diameter 1300mm)). To calculate the speed, measure the circumference of the wheels (Easily with a tape measure or a sewing meter), the gear ratios of the axle and gearbox, and calculate how many revolutions the wheel makes at a given speed and multiply by the length of the circumference. You don’t have to bother with this, everything will be good and so, I’m telling you as a “doctor”. But if you want great traction, then install a second transmission, and install wheels at least from Gazik 53. If you are interested in anything else, ask.
Thank you for clearing all my doubts. The only reason I want to install 2 gearboxes is that there will be 16 speeds in front and 8 in reverse, that is, you are driving on the asphalt, put 4 speed on both gearboxes, and with a breeze, and across the field I switched to 1 and went. If something in my reasoning is not correct, please correct it, and not slander me.
Messages [1 to 20 of 47]
1↑ Topic by Gregory 08/14/2014 17:24:39
- Gregory
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- Registered: 03-08-2014
- Messages: 366
- Reputation: 44
- Motorcycle: “Ural” IMZ-8.103-10
Topic: Which gearbox should I install?
I know this is somewhat offtopic, but I didn’t find the “transmission” section. The point is this. Finally, my favorite “Russian Harley-Davidson” - IMZ-8.103-10 - came into my hands. Brutal device. Now I’m going through it and turning it into a Soviet retro-tourist chopper. Loner naturally. I took off the stroller. And immediately a problem arose. A gearbox, or rather the gear ratio of its bevel pair. For me it is 4.62 at the moment (eight), i.e. standard gearbox for wheelchair users. And I want to have the highest possible speed (36 hp engine). In addition to the eighth gearbox, there are also so-called. “ninth” (3.89) and “tenth” (3.3). I heard that people drove their Urals to
Beginning of work
You should prepare in advance for assembling the trike. You will need to find a ZAZ-968 and a Ural motorcycle at a disassembly site in decent condition. From ZAZ you will need an engine, from Ural - most of the components. You will have to make the frame yourself and this is the most difficult stage of the whole undertaking. As a result of manipulations, converting a Ural motorcycle into a tricycle can turn into a presentable, powerful vehicle, no worse than its factory counterparts.
The frame plays the role of a connecting link on which all the parts will be installed. It must be reliable and comply with the drawings. There are only a few nuggets that can produce a similar product with precision up to 5 mm; if you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Before installing the parts, spend an hour and measure the frame with a tape measure, check the locations of the holes and clamps.
Main gear reducer
Will the gearbox (completely assembled) fit from the Urals to the Dnieper and what problems may arise? please don't throw cardans at me..(
We open the standard manual for 8.103 and read that the main gear assembly is interchangeable. One of the problems is that some daisies do not sit on the Dnieper bridge and jam when the axle is tightened. The reason is that the brake parts and the edge of the shoes rest against the inside of the brake drum. Treated locally with a grinder.
I don't think there will be any problems with the brake drive.
Dnepr and Ural gearboxes are of different widths. If you install a gearbox from the Urals on the Dnieper, the rear wheel will not be aligned with the axis of the motorcycle and will shift to the left.
I didn't notice any difference
Not the gearbox itself, but the thicker cover. The brakes definitely won't work - you'll have to get rid of it. Other pads. And also - the Ural axis is almost a centimeter longer. I'm afraid the dnieper axle won't fit properly into the ural reducer. (The Ural axle is installed in a Dnieper gearbox, the length is compensated by the internal part of the wheel bearing.)
On the Urals they put a Dnieper gearbox cover to move the gearbox together with the cardan to the right. With the reverse conversion - for a stroller - it’s okay if you don’t push in the bad tires. The wheel will simply be shifted to the left by almost a centimeter.
People, thank you all for helping! I installed everything, the wheel actually fit 1 to the left
2 cm, there weren’t many problems with the brakes.
The ural reducer cover (perhaps not all of them) is 5 mm thicker.
Source
Tricycle from the Urals and VAZ-2101
When creating a cargo tricycle with your own hands from the Urals and parts of a VAZ-2101 car, the easiest thing will be to install a regular bridge and make a car suspension with shock absorbers from the Urals.
The bridge from the VAZ-2101 is turned over, after welding the differential. This is reflected in the handling - the steering wheel is quite difficult to turn, however, the trike's cross-country ability increases.
The driveshaft is shortened and welded to the fork on the final drive and connected to the axle through a rubber coupling. It is better to take the original Uralov clutch, in this case the transmission will be softer.
To avoid bending the cardan drive, you can move the engine to the left by 7-9 cm, or move the axle to the right or increase the wheelbase.
It is better to leave the engine as a whole unchanged, but instead of two carburetors, make one Chinese one. And for forced cooling, use an air filter from Izh.
Additionally, to cool the engine when operating in difficult conditions, you can install two fans and run them separately if necessary.
Pros and cons of the design
+ Simple and cheap transport;
+ The engine does not overheat.
- Can only go forward;
— Too much load on the axle with the front wheel;
— Goes too fast in first gear.
