Adjusting the front fork of a bicycle and changing the fork oil

Maintenance of lubricated parts of the fork

Bicycle fork.
The main component of the fork is the damper, which serves as a rebound retarder for the fork .
In cheap bicycles, its role is played by plastic elastomers, in professional ones - valves and tubes. In simplified suspension designs, only rebound is adjusted, while in higher classes, many other degrees of freedom are provided. In oil forks, oil acts as a damper. When the suspension moves down, it flows through the internal valve. Returning back, she closes the valve. And the lubricant enters through small holes in it. It dissipates the thermal energy received from the compressed spring.

Types of oil dampers:

• Open bath. There are valves on both sides of the fork and oil is present in the two legs of the fork.
• Half bath. The lubricant does not flow into the pants and is present only in one leg of the suspension to ensure the operation of its valve.
• Closed type. In addition to the damper, made in the form of a solid cartridge, there is also a mechanism that blocks damping.

In the first two types, the fork is rebuilt, the lubricant and o-rings of the pistons, springs, and oil seals are replaced. The fork legs and boots are cleaned of dirt. Then the fork oil is added. Some people use thick lubricant, but it is inferior to its oil counterpart in fluidity. Mostly synthetics are used: in the damper with a viscosity of 5 W, and in the pants - 15 W. But semi-synthetics and mineral analogues can also be used. The thinner their composition, the better it envelops the parts. In cold weather, oil lubricant tends to thicken , so in the off-season they prefer a thinner consistency than in warm periods. In forks with an open damper, the progression at the final stage of the stroke is controlled by the oil level. The lubricant must be changed regularly to avoid damage to parts due to hardening and friction.

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Finally got around to changing the oil in my RockShox 30 Gold TK super fork. And in recent weeks my heart has been bleeding. I almost physically felt how all sorts of abrasive particles were rubbing on my anodized legs.

Usually I always do maintenance as it should be - every 50-60 hours of work, but this time I got a little lazy and the fork probably went through all 150.

But, as it turned out, I had no reason to worry. The inside of the fork looks like new, nothing is rubbed there, the oil is clean. The only thing I noticed (and not for the first time) was that some of the oil again flowed from the damper into the pants.

This is finally the disease of all Rockshoxes. On the Internet they advise replacing the ring on the rebound rod. Knowing about this ambush, I ordered several different rings from some tricky silicone in advance (a year and a half ago).

In the original there was a 12x3.5mm ring:

But I decided to go incrementally and first set it a little larger - 12.5 x 3.5 mm, I’ll see how it goes.

In general, there is a radical solution. Someday I will decide to do this.

How to change the oil in the pants in most Rockshaw forks is shown in this video from the manufacturer:

I do exactly the same. And so as not to forget when the last maintenance was, I leave the current odometer readings here:

PS By the way, I didn’t expect that such a simple procedure would take me almost 4 hours of time (including disassembling/assembling the bike, cleaning the workplace, taking out the trash, etc.). Although I spent quite a long time looking for a replacement rubber ring...

And also, due to my clumsiness, I dropped the syringe into the oil container, and it then sank to the very bottom. I could barely dig him out of there, his throat was so narrow! I was even planning to pour all the oil into another container... In general, all sorts of unforeseen difficulties arose.

It’s not for nothing that one of Murphy’s laws states:

If the job seems easy to do, it will certainly be difficult. If it looks difficult, it means it is absolutely impossible to do.

And finally, I’ll leave a reminder here - how much, where and what kind of oil should be poured. Otherwise, every time I forget and spend a long time looking for that same Oil Chart on the Internet.

So, oil with a viscosity of 15W is poured into the pants of the RockShox 30 Gold TK (26″) fork:

• in the right pant leg (where the rebound damper is) - 5 ml;
• in the left pant leg (where the air spring is) - 10 ml.

85 ml of 5W oil is poured into the damper itself. Many people recommend using LHM+ hydraulic fluid instead of oil (especially in the cold season).

The bolts at the bottom of the fork that hold the pants are tightened with a force of 7.3 Nm, the damper is screwed into the leg also with a force of 7.3 Nm. There are generally 7.3 Nm everywhere, except for two small bolts located on the remote fork locking knob - they are tightened with a force of 0.9-1.0 Nm.

November 21, 2018

On the computer there are 20951 km. I should have sorted out the fork a long time ago, but somehow never got around to it. And today I finally decided.

Surprisingly, it turns out that it is not always necessary to pour exactly 85 ml of oil into the damper. Sometimes there is too much of this and the fork does not press all the way through. Until I sucked back 5 ml (using a syringe), the plug did not want to work. So you shouldn’t take the above figures as the ultimate truth, you should always look at the situation.

Just in case, I’ll leave here a cool video about how much oil should be poured into ANY fork and what will happen if you underfill/overfill it:

And further. The ring that I installed last time (12.5x3.5mm) did not work. Oil leaked into my pants again! So you need to put it thicker. But today I forgot about it and just wrapped an old ring of flight fum (in about two layers). I'll see if there's enough to spare. But next. Now I’ll take a thicker ring (the main thing is not to forget!)

Here is another new video on maintenance of exactly the same fork (only 29-inch). The video is too detailed and there is a lot of unnecessary stuff, but everything is shown in the smallest detail:

August 28, 2019

It’s been a long time since I did the maintenance of the forks, and then the opportunity happened - the oil from the damper again gradually flowed into the pant leg. It would seem that we don’t care about this, if not for one thing: the travel of the fork has decreased so much that it already began to resemble a rigid one. Even with small drops from curbs, strong impacts are felt on the steering wheel and hands.

In short, I went through the fork, and now it works like clockwork. This time, to prevent oil from leaking out of the damper, I installed a ring measuring 13x3.5 mm. By the way, it stood up just like native.

I'll go for a ride around the city, I can't wait to test it! The bike computer now shows 24,821 km.

February 11, 2020

Yesterday, after a short trip to get a new tire (75 km, -8°C), the fork started to hurt my hands. The stroke decreased to about 15-20 mm. In general, as usual, the oil from the damper leaked into my pants.

I pulled out the damper, and it was completely empty! There is no oil at all. The seal doesn't hold at all.

I’m thinking about ordering a 12x4 mm ring for the future. I think it will be just right! In the meantime, I returned the 12.5 x 3.5 mm , it seemed to show itself better than all the others. Additionally, I wrapped it with several layers of fum tape. In total it took about 30 cm of tape.

The anodizing on the legs has started to peel off. These are the consequences of one single case when all the oil leaked out through a leak in the lower screws (which hold the rods). The fork ran dry for some time, here is the result:

And this is the leg from the damper side (it suffered even more):

By the way, to prevent rotation when tightening the screw, today I made 4 notches on the end of the damper rod. I sharpened it bluntly with a triangular file and that’s it. Did not help. Next I'll add the same amount again.

The odometer currently shows 27,922 km.

Fork setup

The effectiveness of the suspension depends on its correct adjustment. It is influenced by the weight of the cyclist, the route and the chosen riding style.

Setup steps:

1. the initial load (SAG) is set;
2. the rebound speed is adjusted;
3. The compression speed is being adjusted.

The main thing to remember is that you only need to change one parameter at a time. After a positive result, you can change the following setting. If you perform all the steps at once, you will not be able to figure out what improved or worsened the performance of the fork. The setup process may fail. Then you will need to return everything to its original state (adjust half the rebound and also the compression), and then start all over again.

Seg

Your bike's fork adjustment mainly depends on the preload being set to perfection. It will prevent the suspension from sagging under the influence of the rider's weight. The seg will muffle impacts from road unevenness and protect against loss of control over the bike. If it is low, the suspension will become stiff and there will not be enough travel. This will cause the bike to lose contact with the surface. A big seg will require a lot of effort from the cyclist, and the fork will compress when descending. And this will affect the comfort of pedaling.

The amount of load will depend on riding style, but generally it is between 20 and 30% of the full fork travel. Manufacturers have provided a ring (rubber or plastic) for ease of adjustment, and if there is none, you should attach a disposable flagellum to your leg. The method of changing the seg depends on the type of fork:

• in spring ones with an auxiliary chamber, the air compression in it is regulated. In special cases, the spring itself is changed;
• in air, its required value is achieved by changing the pressure in the positive sector;
• in spring suspensions it is adjusted externally. Gradually changing it in small amounts. There are several types of springs on sale, differing in their stiffness. To increase the load, you need to replace the spring with a stiffer one, and to decrease it, vice versa.

You can determine the desired seg while sitting on your bike. If there is no special ring, then you need to put a plastic tie . Then you need to sit on the bike and lightly press it to the ground, simulating with this action the force directed to the steering wheel when riding. The fork will push through - this will be a seg. Its size is determined by the shifted clamp.

You can also measure the load during the ride itself, here you need to rely on sensations. It is better to make changes from smaller to larger values.

Rebound speed

This parameter will show how quickly the suspension returns to its original position after compression. This determines how the bike can react to the next obstacle. The rebound response at high speeds must be instantaneous so that the shock absorber has time to reconfigure to handle the next obstacle. It must be adjusted in such a way that the resulting shocks are absorbed before they hit the bicycle handlebars. If you feel the rebound speed is not enough, then you should start adding it from small amounts. Gradually bringing to ideal working conditions. It must be borne in mind that its speed depends on the thickness of the oil. Therefore, during cold periods the rebound will be slightly delayed.

In expensive bike models, this indicator can be changed at any half of the stroke. This property is useful for extreme sports, especially for downhill, where riding involves many obstacles.

Compression

Determines the amount of oil required to turn a bicycle wheel at a specific speed. Adjusts the compression rate of the suspension. There are three types:

• low speed. It starts working at the beginning of the turn. Muffles and smoothes out unevenness. Unlike rebound, this compression is responsible for the softness of passing obstacles, and not for the speed of response. It can be used to increase pedaling speed by increasing the stiffness or make it softer for difficult trails with a lot of bumps. It is involved in adjusting the fork sag caused by the bicycle brake on the front wheel. Adjustable from the twisted position;
• high speed Necessary to change the progression at the end of the turn. It is responsible for the safety of the suspension when the bike lands. In some models, this indicator is set directly at the manufacturer. If necessary, you can check its operation while pedaling. All according to the same clamp;
• blocking Compression at high speed in the closed position often goes into this state. This protection will come in handy on smooth roads. For rough terrain, it is better to leave the suspension in working condition.

It is rare, but still such customizable suspension protection as anti-breakdown occurs. This is a kind of rigidity reserve that can be used at the end of the stroke. It protects the fork from breaking during a strong impact. Its use limits the performance of the suspension.

To enjoy riding with a mid- and high-class suspension fork, you must first configure it correctly. In budget models there are practically no functions that can be adjusted, so they use the settings set at the manufacturer.

• How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork. To know…

Oil selection

Choosing fork oil is very difficult, despite the recommendations of motorcycle manufacturers. The problem is that motorcycle manufacturers often specify ideal viscosity parameters at operating oil temperatures that are many times higher than the temperature at which the fluid is poured into the fork. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the standard designation of viscosity, but also to the coefficient of its change with increasing temperature. Such information is often indicated on the canister of liquid, and if it is missing, you will need to pay attention to the manufacturer’s website or to specialized materials published by technical experts.

Since the characteristics of oils from different manufacturers with the same SAE designation can vary significantly, it is better to choose one brand and remain faithful to it in the future. The first change is always made with oil with the same viscosity as specified in the vehicle’s operating instructions. With a significant reduction in fork stiffness, you will need to gradually increase the viscosity - by 2.5W or 5W with each subsequent replacement, depending on your personal preference. Most touring motorcycles recommend 10W oil, while sport and high-performance city bikes recommend 2.5-5W oil.

It is prohibited to use regular motor oil in the fork as it will help achieve the desired damping characteristics. On a canister with a special material you can find the inscription Fork Oil or Suspension Oil. You should beware of fakes, because with low-quality oil in the fork, the motorcycle can become uncontrollable, which will lead to a serious accident.

When choosing fork stiffness, you need to be guided by the type of roads on which the motorcycle will be used. By adding a thicker oil, you will get better damping characteristics and your vehicle will be more stable at high speeds. However, with an increase in rigidity, comfort will significantly decrease - on any major unevenness the driver will feel a “breakdown”, which can even throw the motorcycle off course. On the contrary, insufficiently viscous fork oil will cause significant vibrations, twitching, or even steering pull when cornering.

If the bike will only be used on quality intercity trails and race tracks, there is nothing wrong with significantly increasing the fork stiffness. However, for driving on country roads and city streets with poor quality coverage, such settings are no longer suitable. A special case is replacing technical fluid in a motocross motorcycle. For it you will have to buy a special technical fluid marked “Off-Road” on the canister. Using regular oil for road motorcycles can significantly reduce the energy capacity of the suspension or even lead to its failure.

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   1.

Do I need to wash the chain?

At one time, I washed the chain every five hundred kilometers, soaking it in a bottle of white spirit. Over time, the enthusiasm faded, but nevertheless, as practice has shown, this did not have any impact on the resource.

You need to understand one simple thing - you need to wash a bicycle chain only when it catches abrasives - sand and dirt. To avoid this, you need to use lubricants suitable for the riding conditions.

This is a stone in the garden for those who wonder why buy special bicycle lubricants when there is oil for motorcycle chains, chainsaws, or general maintenance.

A bicycle chain for a multi-speed transmission is very different in design, not only from a motorcycle chain, but even from the one found on singlespeed bicycles.

I currently lubricate the chain with silicone spray. It practically doesn’t pick up dirt and dust at all, but it dries out very quickly, so you have to go over it before each ride. Enough for about 100 km. The option is not the best, but it is fast.

Are the Rules broken in the situations depicted?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

d) while driving, hold on to another vehicle;

f) tow bicycles;

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

d) while driving, hold on to another vehicle;

f) tow bicycles;

Which cyclist doesn't break the rules?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

b) move on highways and roads for cars, as well as on the roadway if there is a bicycle path nearby;

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

b) move on highways and roads for cars, as well as on the roadway if there is a bicycle path nearby;

Who should give way?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.

What loads is a cyclist allowed to carry?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.4. A cyclist may only carry such loads that do not interfere with the operation of the bicycle and do not create obstacles for other road users.

22. Cargo transportation

22.3. Transportation of cargo is permitted provided that it:

b) does not interfere with the stability of the vehicle and does not complicate its control;

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.4. A cyclist may only carry such loads that do not interfere with the operation of the bicycle and do not create obstacles for other road users.

22. Cargo transportation

22.3. Transportation of cargo is permitted provided that it:

b) does not interfere with the stability of the vehicle and does not complicate its control;

Shock absorber lubrication

A poorly lubricated and out-of-adjustment mechanism can not only produce an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bicycle, spoiling all the fun of sports. The ideal option is to clean the external parts of the bicycle fork after each ride, and at least once a season to lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop whose master knows exactly what needs to be done, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Spring and spring-elastomeric shock absorbers can be lubricated without disassembling the bicycle fork. To do this, lubricant is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After this, the bike should be “rocked” and excess oil should be removed with a napkin. But! This is a fast, hiking option, used when it is not possible to disassemble the bike even partially. According to the rules, you should first unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then unscrew the Preload bolt, remove the elastomer and spring, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants,” that is, the part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. This is where the most dirt is found and this is the part that most often needs repairs.

The anthers are taken out of the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

Maintenance of the oil-spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil can simply be drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. Things are a little more complicated with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in a capsule and changes along with the entire capsule. Unlike the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The oil-air shock absorber is considered the most demanding to maintain. To clean and lubricate it, you need to:

• Unscrew and wash the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
• Open the valves and release the pressure. If everything is done correctly, the mechanism will easily compress and unclench;
• Next, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
• Then you should remove the oil seal. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or make other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can begin assembling the bicycle fork;
• Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
• Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the required pressure and installed in place.

Motorists have a saying: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate the shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse can run for many seasons without repair.

Proper operation of shock absorbers is the key to a comfortable and safer ride. If there is a lack of oil in this suspension part, the braking distance becomes longer and repairs are required more often. Which oil to choose for shock absorbers?

Which cyclists violate the Rules when transporting passengers?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

e) carry passengers on a bicycle (except for children under 7 years old, transported on an additional seat equipped with securely fastened footrests);

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

e) carry passengers on a bicycle (except for children under 7 years old, transported on an additional seat equipped with securely fastened footrests);

In what order will vehicles pass through the intersection?

Correct 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.12. At the intersection of equivalent roads, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to vehicles approaching from the right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves. At any unregulated intersection, a tram, regardless of the direction of its further movement, has an advantage over non-rail vehicles approaching it along an equivalent road.

16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads. This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.

Wrong 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.12. At the intersection of equivalent roads, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to vehicles approaching from the right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves. At any unregulated intersection, a tram, regardless of the direction of its further movement, has an advantage over non-rail vehicles approaching it along an equivalent road.

16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads. This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.

Withdrawal rules

The fork is a multi-component element. A speed sensor, brake caliper, hydraulic line, wing, and V-brake are attached to it.

In order to remove it, you must perform the following steps sequentially:

• remove the bolts that hold the stem to the steering tube;
• remove the anchor bolt;
• remove the steering wheel with stem (this must be done as carefully as possible, since there is a danger of damaging the hydraulic line);
• dismantle the spacer rings;
• remove the guide sleeve;
• remove the lower part of the steering wheel from the holding cup;
• remove the bearing;
• Carefully remove the race ring.

After this, the eccentric is loosened and the wheel itself is removed.

The bicycle owner must have a complete set of screwdrivers. For example, to remove the guide sleeve, you will need the most compact of them. Only with this can you pry the sleeve in the cut area.

It is recommended that all dismantled elements be laid out sequentially - as they were removed. A tried and tested technique is to take photographs of each stage of the work. This will allow for error-free reassembly.

Riding bicycles on sidewalks and pedestrian paths:

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

c) move on sidewalks and pedestrian paths (except for children under 7 years old on children's bicycles under the supervision of adults);

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:

c) move on sidewalks and pedestrian paths (except for children under 7 years old on children's bicycles under the supervision of adults);

Signs of dysfunction

In order for the fork to work for a long time, the bicycle owner must perform maintenance on this important unit from time to time.
Necessary preventive work includes:

• applying lubricant;
• replacing seals;
• to align the steering tube;
• bearing replacement.

Lubrication is given special importance. It provides high-quality shock absorption and reduces wear of components. It is performed every 400 km. If the bike is not used so intensively, then this procedure still needs to be performed once a season. Separately, the oil seals are lubricated after 700 km.

These are very average recommendations. It all depends on how you use the bike. If it is used daily on difficult routes, then lubrication should be performed more often.

The service life of bicycle components is shortened by poor-quality surfaces or terrain. It wears out especially quickly when driving on sand and abrasive materials. Experienced cyclists identify fork dysfunction by characteristic sounds. The need for debugging or replacement of dilapidated elements is determined by knocking or squeaking while riding.

In addition, typical wear symptoms include:

• backlash;
• tight adjustability;
• difficult steering movement;
• jamming.

Finally, daily visual inspection can reveal visible defects. If cracks are found in your legs or pants, immediate action must be taken.

Who has the right of way when crossing a bike path?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.

What distance should be between groups of cyclists moving in a column?

Correct 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.3. Cyclists traveling in groups must ride one after another so as not to interfere with other road users. A column of cyclists moving along the roadway must be divided into groups (up to 10 cyclists in a group) with a movement distance between groups of 80-100 m.

Wrong 6. Requirements for cyclists

6.3. Cyclists traveling in groups must ride one after another so as not to interfere with other road users. A column of cyclists moving along the roadway must be divided into groups (up to 10 cyclists in a group) with a movement distance between groups of 80-100 m.

How to remove and install the fork - step-by-step instructions

The first step is to free yourself from the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release the rim brakes by folding back the clamping bar. With the discs in place, you can immediately begin removing the wheel. The wings and other accessories are immediately removed.

We put the bike in its usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the fork from the glass:

1. Unscrew the side bolts on the stem.

2. Completely unscrew the steering pin fasteners, or “anchor” bolt.

3. The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.

4. Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or utility knife) to pry the fixing metal washer above the glass.

Using the same tool, press out the sealing gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring moves away from the edge of the glass, carefully pull it out with your hands.

5. Raise the frame and very carefully pull out the fork from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing the bearings.

6. Next you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.

Using a thin, sharp object and a hammer, carefully separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.

Vehicles will pass through the intersection in the following order

Correct 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.13. Before turning left and making a U-turn, the driver of a non-rail vehicle must give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving on an equivalent road in the opposite direction straight or to the right.

Wrong 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.13. Before turning left and making a U-turn, the driver of a non-rail vehicle must give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving on an equivalent road in the opposite direction straight or to the right.

A cyclist passes an intersection:

Correct 8. Traffic regulation

8.3. Traffic controller signals take precedence over traffic light signals and road sign requirements and are mandatory. Traffic lights, other than flashing yellow ones, take precedence over priority road signs. Drivers and pedestrians must comply with the additional requirements of the traffic controller, even if they contradict traffic lights, road signs and markings.

16. Driving through intersections

16.6. When turning left or turning around when the main traffic light is green, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving straight in the opposite direction or turning right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves.

Wrong 8. Traffic control

8.3. Traffic controller signals take precedence over traffic light signals and road sign requirements and are mandatory. Traffic lights, other than flashing yellow ones, take precedence over priority road signs. Drivers and pedestrians must comply with the additional requirements of the traffic controller, even if they contradict traffic lights, road signs and markings.

16. Driving through intersections

16.6. When turning left or turning around when the main traffic light is green, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving straight in the opposite direction or turning right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves.

Flashing red signals of this traffic light:

Correct 8. Traffic regulation

8.7.6. To regulate traffic at railway crossings, traffic lights with two red signals or one white-lunar and two red ones are used, having the following meanings:

a) flashing red signals prohibit the movement of vehicles through the crossing;

b) a flashing white-lunar signal indicates that the alarm system is working and does not prohibit vehicle movement.

At railway crossings, simultaneously with the prohibitory traffic light signal, an audible signal may be turned on, additionally informing road users that movement through the crossing is prohibited.

Wrong 8. Traffic control

8.7.6. To regulate traffic at railway crossings, traffic lights with two red signals or one white-lunar and two red ones are used, having the following meanings:

a) flashing red signals prohibit the movement of vehicles through the crossing;

b) a flashing white-lunar signal indicates that the alarm system is working and does not prohibit vehicle movement.

At railway crossings, simultaneously with the prohibitory traffic light signal, an audible signal may be turned on, additionally informing road users that movement through the crossing is prohibited.

The main reasons for disassembling a bicycle fork:

• repair;
• adjustment;
• maintenance (TO);
• just look at the device.

Modern front suspension forks come in different types. Inexpensive ones include spring-elastomer ones, which are mainly used on budget mountain bikes: ardis, formula, stealth, forward, cronus, etc.

Popular brands:

• Zoom (Zoom);
• RST(rst);
• Suntour (Santour);
• RockShox (Rockshock).

They are simple in design and not expensive in price. As for reliability, it depends on the method of operation. If you maintain and take care of it on time, it can last a long time without problems. But as a rule, on inexpensive ones, play in the front fork legs, rusting of the legs and other problems are inevitable soon.

The driver of which vehicle will cross the intersection second?

Correct 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.

This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.

Wrong 16. Driving through intersections

16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.

This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.

Cyclist:

Correct 8. Traffic regulation

8.7.3. Traffic light signals have the following meanings:

A signal in the form of an arrow that allows a left turn also allows a U-turn if it is not prohibited by road signs.

A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), switched on together with the green traffic light signal, informs the driver that he has priority in the direction(s) of movement indicated by the arrow(s) over vehicles moving from other directions;

f) a red signal, including a flashing one, or two red flashing signals prohibit movement.

A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), together with a yellow or red traffic light signal, informs the driver that movement is permitted in the indicated direction, subject to the unhindered passage of vehicles moving from other directions.

A green arrow on a sign installed at the level of a red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals allows movement in the indicated direction when the red traffic light is on from the rightmost lane (or the leftmost lane on one-way roads), subject to the provision of priority in traffic to its other participants moving from other directions to a traffic light signal allowing movement;

16 Driving through intersections

16.9. While driving in the direction of the arrow turned on in the additional section simultaneously with a yellow or red traffic light, the driver must give way to vehicles moving from other directions.

When driving in the direction of the green arrow on the table installed at the level of the red traffic light with vertical signals, the driver must take the extreme right (left) lane and give way to vehicles and pedestrians moving from other directions.

Wrong 8. Traffic control

8.7.3. Traffic light signals have the following meanings:

A signal in the form of an arrow that allows a left turn also allows a U-turn if it is not prohibited by road signs.

A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), switched on together with the green traffic light signal, informs the driver that he has priority in the direction(s) of movement indicated by the arrow(s) over vehicles moving from other directions;

f) a red signal, including a flashing one, or two red flashing signals prohibit movement.

A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), together with a yellow or red traffic light signal, informs the driver that movement is permitted in the indicated direction, subject to the unhindered passage of vehicles moving from other directions.

A green arrow on a sign installed at the level of a red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals allows movement in the indicated direction when the red traffic light is on from the rightmost lane (or the leftmost lane on one-way roads), subject to the provision of priority in traffic to its other participants moving from other directions to a traffic light signal allowing movement;

16 Driving through intersections

16.9. While driving in the direction of the arrow turned on in the additional section simultaneously with a yellow or red traffic light, the driver must give way to vehicles moving from other directions.

When driving in the direction of the green arrow on the table installed at the level of the red traffic light with vertical signals, the driver must take the extreme right (left) lane and give way to vehicles and pedestrians moving from other directions.

How to lubricate a bicycle

How to lubricate a bicycle?

This is the question asked by every cyclist who cares about his iron friend. The question is really relevant, because a bicycle is a technical device and, despite its apparent simplicity, a rather complex device. Bearings, chain, carriage, fork (with shock absorption) constantly experience friction when driving. The image shows nodes that require periodic care

It is important to wash the bike well before lubricating it, then remove dirt from hard-to-reach places. The WD-40 sprayer worked well. Eliminates rust and dirt. Well lubricates brake and gear shift cables (cleaning and lubricant). Used to unscrew stuck or rusted bolts and nuts.

For the chain, you can purchase a special machine that cleans the chain. Such a machine can clean the chain as well as possible without dismantling it.

Of course, bicycles from brands such as GT or Merida can travel 10,000 km without additional lubrication, but this does not mean that they do not need to be lubricated at all.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

The budget option, but not the best one, uses any liquid lubricant. It is recommended to apply a specialized lubricant, which will extend the life of the chain.

The bicycle chain is the most vulnerable part of the bicycle to dirt. A dusty road, rain, puddles all tend to stain the chain. At the same time, the ease of gear shifting and the effort spent on the pedaling process depend on the chain. A rusty and dirty chain can tire a cyclist no less than climbing a mountain.

The lubrication process is carried out in several stages

1. We tighten the chain by switching to the largest sprockets
2. We clean the chain from dirt. Both special chain cleaning machines, rags and WD-40 spray are suitable.
3. Lubricate the chain. It is advisable to apply lubricant to each link one drop at a time.
4. Pedal back for about a minute
5. Wipe the chain well with a soft cloth to remove all excess lubricant.

It is recommended to change the chain every 2000 km to avoid chain slack and wear on the rear cassette. It is better to lubricate the chain after driving on muddy roads or rain. The best lubrication period is considered to be every 100 km.

How to lubricate bicycle bearings

The bearings are located in the wheel axles and the carriage (pedal assembly). Oil of a thick consistency (not spreading) is suitable for lubrication. It is recommended to use specialized lubricant.

To the delight of cycling enthusiasts, there is no need to lubricate the bearings just like the chain. This is usually done at the end of the cycling season or, as needed (creaking, stiff movement)

1. Disassembling the unit
2. Thorough washing of all parts. You can use kerosene.
3. Applying Lubricant
4. Assembly of the unit

How to lubricate a bicycle fork

It is the fork that gives the bike a soft ride and maneuverability. Therefore, taking care of your suspension fork will allow you to enjoy your rides for a long time.

It is recommended to lubricate the fork legs every 200 km, oil seals approximately 1000 km, and complete disassembly and lubrication every 3000 km

Liquid oil is used to lubricate the guides. If the fork is spring, then the springs are lubricated with thick lubricant (for example Litol-24)

Due to some difficulties, it is better to watch the entire lubrication process on video

Types of lubricants

If you urgently need to lubricate, but you don’t have the right type of lubricant, here’s something else to lubricate your bike with:

1. Liquid oil, or machine oil as it is also called, is suitable for lubricating the chain and the legs of the suspension fork. Among the shortcomings, it quickly collects dust.
2. Grease type Litol-24 is suitable for carriage assemblies and bearings. The disadvantage is water solubility, so the units must be hermetically sealed.
3. Calcium lubricants. For example Uniol. They do not dissolve in water, stick well and last a long time.
4. Aerosols (WD-40) simultaneously clean and lubricate due to the Teflon content.
5. Silicone - easy to apply and repels dust and water

When lubricating your bicycle, avoid getting oil on rubber parts, tires, and brake pads. For caliper brakes, do not allow oil to come into contact with the rims.

Can a cyclist turn left?

Correct 11. Location of vehicles on the road

11.14. Movement on the roadway on bicycles, mopeds, horse-drawn carriages (sleighs) and horseback riders is permitted only in one row in the rightmost lane as far to the right as possible, except for cases when a detour is in progress. Left turns and U-turns are permitted on roads with one lane in each direction and no tram tracks in the middle. Driving on the side of the road is permitted if this does not create obstacles for pedestrians.

Wrong 11. Location of vehicles on the road

11.14. Movement on the roadway on bicycles, mopeds, horse-drawn carriages (sleighs) and horseback riders is permitted only in one row in the rightmost lane as far to the right as possible, except for cases when a detour is in progress. Left turns and U-turns are permitted on roads with one lane in each direction and no tram tracks in the middle. Driving on the side of the road is permitted if this does not create obstacles for pedestrians.

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What difficulties may arise

• When inflating a bicycle air fork, if you don’t know the required pressure, and you don’t have a table from the manufacturer’s website. In this situation, it is recommended to gradually pump up the shock absorber and test the fork for stiffness. It should not be tight, and should not sag under your weight by more than 30%. This method cannot be considered very accurate, but it will give the necessary performance of the fork until you get a table and adjust the pressure.
• When specially adjusting the spring load, it is very difficult to turn the knob. This could be due to quite a few reasons. The easiest way to turn is to apply a little force using pliers. Allowing you to fix the lid and turn it, but without fanaticism. The disadvantage of this method is that you can easily damage the regulator cover, which is made of low quality plastic.