What kind of oil to pour into the alpha 110 moped engine

Bykov K.P., Shlenchik T.A.

Changing the engine oil

The engine oil is changed after 1,000 km, and then every 2,000 km.

The engine oil is replaced on a hot engine in the following order (Fig. 18): • remove the oil dipstick (Fig. 18.1) and unscrew the nut to drain the oil (Fig. 18.2); • drain the used oil (Fig. 18.3); • after checking the condition of the sealing gasket of the oil drain nut, tighten the nut (tightening torque 2.3 kgcm); • pour approximately 0.7 liters of oil into the crankcase through the hole for the oil dipstick (Fig. 18.4); • reinstall the oil dipstick; • start the engine and let it run for several minutes at idle speed, stop the engine; • check the oil level and, if necessary, bring it up to normal.

Rice. 18. Changing engine oil

How to understand modern oil labeling?

Recently, many brands of motor and transmission oils from various companies have appeared on sale: SHELL, BP, CASTROL, MOTUL, NESTE, MOBIL, TEXACO, ELF, TEDEX, VALVOLINE, TEBOIL, etc. How to make sense of all this abundance and understand the principle of oil selection ? All oils have many indicators indicated in the technical specifications, but we, as buyers, should be interested in only two of them: quality level (will it suit my motorcycle) and viscosity (is it suitable for the upcoming season and in general for this climate). The answer to these questions is contained in the labeling of any commercial grade - the globally accepted indexing system for motor oils.

Viscosity is determined and indicated according to the method of the American Society of Automotive Engineers SAE (SOCIETy OF AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEERS). The letters SAE on the label mean that the subsequent numbers characterize the viscosity of the oil. Only viscosity, and nothing more! The letter W (WINTER - winter) is placed in the designations of winter varieties (SAE 5W, SAE 15W), while summer varieties do not have any letter (SAE 40, SAE 50). In all-season varieties, in the viscosity marking, after the letters SAE, the winter indicator first follows, and then the summer indicator. Between the two designations there is usually a hyphen or fraction sign, and sometimes nothing at all. For example, SAE 15W-40, SAE 10W/40, SAE 15W40. An example of motor oil marking is shown in Fig. 16, and the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of motor oils for gasoline engines are given in Table. 4.

Photo report: changing the oil in the engine and gearbox of a scooter

It would seem that it could be easier? I mixed the old oil and filled the new one, but nope. There are people who manage and punish.

engine's type

When buying oil for a motorcycle, you need to pay attention to its classification, as well as the content of special additives.

To choose which oil to put into your scooter, first consider the engine type: products for two-stroke engines are not suitable for four-stroke engines, and vice versa. The fundamental difference in operation: oil for two-stroke engines is mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:25 or 1:50, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Lubricant replacement in four-stroke engines occurs by draining the old product from the oil tank, washing and filling with a new one.

The choice between mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic oil for mopeds and scooters is not difficult. For economy class mopeds and scooters, mineral or semi-synthetic is perfect. Mineral varieties are the cheapest, so they are more often purchased by poor scooter owners. But when using them, you should remember that they are chemically unstable, so the timing of their replacement must be strictly observed. Semi-synthetics are preferable to mineral ones, but are noticeably more expensive. Synthetic oil is intended for high-speed boosted scooters, whose engines place increased demands on oil quality. It preserves engine life better, has better viscosity, lower volatility, and a wider range of operating temperatures. For inexpensive mopeds, synthetics are just an unnecessary luxury.

Special attention should be paid: mixing mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited!

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How much lubrication is required

Any scooter owner needs to understand what kind of oil is recommended to use in their small-displacement engine and exactly how much oil should be filled in for the engine to operate efficiently in any weather. The average is 1-2 liters, but a lot depends on the specific type of scooter and its brand. For a more accurate understanding, the owner should read a book on servicing his scooter or select a model on the website and read the instructions.
In a situation where the document cannot be found, it is better to take the advice of repairmen.
The amount of liquid itself that you fill during replacement is on average about 1-2 liters. Experienced specialists or owners of small motorcycles will tell you a more accurate parameter. But at the beginning of use it is recommended to fill in about 1.5 liters.

Manufacturer

The question of choosing a brand is more individual. If your financial capabilities allow, you can buy expensive branded oil. Only for inexpensive scooters, choosing an expensive oil does not lead to any improvements in performance. Maximum – will increase the life of the piston group by 5-10%. Typically, oil changes are carried out every 1000-2000 km. An expensive product does not have time to exhaust its service life within this period and it is necessary to discard the still high-quality product. And untimely oil changes, not prescribed by the manufacturer, are not recommended: over time, the oil accumulates foreign impurities and, instead of protecting against wear, begins to contribute to even greater wear of the rubbing surfaces. As a result, using expensive oil in a regular moped is an unjustified waste of money.

Oils from the MOTUL, LIQUI MOLY and IPONE brands have the highest performance characteristics and are perfect for powerful sports and racing engines, but the price for these products is quite respectable. The British brand CASTROL is also famous for its high quality, but is more affordable. Also in the middle price range can be considered products from MANNOL, VALVOLINE and RAVENOL. The Korean brand ZIC is the cheapest of the imported ones. Provides good performance properties subject to timely oil changes. The domestic budget option is LUKOIL, well suited for both urban and rural use.

Marking and viscosity

Engine wear is affected by the oil viscosity parameter

. The required viscosity depends on the operating temperature of the engine and is usually specified in the operating instructions. The generally accepted standard for designating viscosity according to the American SAE method: 5W40, 5W30, 10W40, 10W50 or simply SAE 40, SAE 50. Moreover, the first number indicates the viscosity of the oil in a cold engine, the second - in one warmed up to operating temperature. The letter W indicates that the oil belongs to winter or all-season varieties. Summer varieties do not have this letter and the first number (SAE 30, SAE 40). The lower the first number, the better the engine starts in cold weather. But if there is no need to ride a moped in winter, there is no point in using liquid oil. In warm weather, high viscosity provides better lubrication of power unit parts, the oil film on rubbing surfaces is not destroyed, and dry friction, overheating and destruction of parts are prevented.

For summer, viscosity 10W40, 10W50, SAE 30, SAE 40, etc. is more suitable. The higher the viscosity of the oil when hot (second number), the better suited the oil is for hot operating conditions. In mid-latitudes, SAE 30 or SAE 40 is quite suitable. In hot countries, SAE 50 and even SAE 60 are used.

What happens during break-in?

During the first hundreds of kilometers, the following happens:

The chain stretches to working length (sometimes even more).
Bolted connections loosen under vibration.
Gaskets take the shape of the cavities in which they are placed.
All excess lubricants (oils) burn out.
The cables stretch, causing play to appear at the steering arms.
All contacting parts are ground in.
The engine and transmission are reaching operating parameters.

All this has a beneficial effect, but only if the running-in is carried out correctly.

Quality Standards

Motor oils have various specifications indicating their quality: API, JACO and others.

The oil standard is indicated on the canister. After the letters API there is a letter designation of oil quality: from SA to SM. The S scale indicates that the oil belongs to gasoline engines; the quality scale is indicated by letters from A (low quality) to M (high quality). A total of 11 quality classes are provided: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, L and M. Products with specifications from SA to SE are currently almost never produced and are only suitable for older equipment manufactured in 80s or 90s. Modern mopeds and scooters consume oil of at least SF quality, but it is better if it is SH, SJ or SL.

SH - products for engines manufactured after 1994. SJ - for engines manufactured after 1996. SL – for engines after 2000. SM – for engines after 2006.

API-TA is required for two-stroke moped and lawn mower engines. For large capacity two-stroke engines of low power - API-TB standard. For powerful large-capacity two-stroke engines - the API-TC standard.

The Japanese JASO standard is intended for models of mopeds and motorcycles with a “wet” clutch, that is, a clutch operating in an oil bath. With this design, the power unit and clutch use the same oil. Accordingly, changing the transmission oil on the scooter will occur simultaneously with replacing the engine oil. Therefore, using a high quality, low friction product may cause this clutch to slip. JASO is suitable for motorcycles manufactured before 1994 or copied models of that time. For modern mopeds and scooters, you should choose JASO MA, JASO MA-1 with a high friction coefficient. The JASO MA-2 standard has an even higher coefficient of friction, but is intended for sports mopeds and scooters. JASO MB has a low coefficient of friction and is not suitable for wet clutch vehicles.

For two-stroke engines, the JASO standard has completely different designations. JASO FA - intended for use in developing countries. JASO FB is the minimum quality standard for Japan. JASO FC is a smokeless oil for a wide range of two-stroke engines made in Japan. JASO FD – for two-stroke engines with increased requirements for the quality of motor oils.

The European ACEA oil quality designation standard is often found. Grades ACEA A1 to ACEA A5 are intended for four-stroke gasoline engines (two-stroke engines are not produced in Europe). Moreover, category A2 denotes the lowest quality oil, and A4 - the highest quality. For engines with normal operating characteristics, category A2 is recommended. Category A3 is recommended for use in motors with high performance. Category A4 is used in motorsports. Certain categories A1 (with particularly low viscosity) and A5 (the latest oils) are not suitable for all engines and are used only in cases where this is directly specified by the manufacturer.

A lot of questions and disputes arise about which oil is suitable for the Alpha moped or for small Chinese motorcycles, for example Stealth Delta 200, Racer Magnum 200 and the like. Therefore, it is worth understanding how oils differ and why some of them are not suitable for your Chinese motorcycle.

What kind of oil to pour into the engine of an Alpha moped. :

Thank you very much, I read all your articles and more and study them. In October 2022 I’m taking an alpha like 110, with a mileage of about 3 thousand km for 12 thousand rubles. At a friend's place. I am 28 years old, this will be my first motor. Previously it was 21099, I changed the clutch myself and cleaned, washed and adjusted the entire carbure. But I sold it because I didn’t drive it. Previously, I studied to be an auto mechanic, by the way, with honors... But for 10 years now I haven’t even read a single article about internal combustion engines and auto moto... I have gone very far from auto moto... I FORGOT EVERYTHING... And nostalgia has taken over. But still, having experience, albeit long-standing and theoretical, having ridden the alpha and studied it, I realized that the moped is affordable and normal for the money. And with proper care, it will please you. I decided to take it. At the same time, I’ll ask something about my future moped in your corresponding thread... I’ll wait for an answer. My name is Pasha.

Tell me, if the mileage on a moped is 70 km, and a year has passed, should the oil be changed?

I did not find any direct instructions in the instructions about changing the oil on time. And in theory it should be enough for 500 km. running-in. But oil loses its properties over time, and no one knows what kind of oil was originally poured. Therefore, to be sure, you can change the oil, especially since a liter of semi-synthetic now costs about 300 rubles.

If on the canister you filled it it is written that the expiration date is 1 year, then yes it is necessary.))))) If not. Then roll on some more kilometers...)

The fact of the matter is that there is no canister; with a mileage of 70 km, the oil must be filled in from the factory (or from the store where the moped was assembled). And what was poured there, and how long ago it was poured, no one knows. Of course, the oil lasts much longer than a year, but if in doubt, it’s easier to replace it and forget about it. Moreover, the replacement price is about 300 rubles + 30 minutes of time spent. Although I don’t think that if you don’t replace it, something terrible will happen in the 430 km remaining before replacement.

The oil needs to be changed anyway! The oil, even when not in use, comes into contact with air and therefore oxidizes. The shelf life of motor oil in sealed packaging is 5 years. If oil is used, as in our case, then it must be changed every year.

I'm sure I work with oils, chemicals, and car cosmetics. I know about polyalphaolefin oils, hydrocracking, and other crap. No nail or rod for everyone!

Of course change it. Especially if you don’t know for sure what you actually filled in. Even when pouring some Motul, you can’t be completely sure that it’s him. There are simply tons of counterfeits, especially for this brand for some reason. For this reason, I don’t take Motul anymore, well, it’s in the swamp.

Yes. If the equipment is not used for a long time, the oil loses its properties.

Please tell me I have a semi-automatic transmission and am interested in what kind of oil to pour into it if the engines are already filled with 10w40

Most likely you have a semi-automatic clutch, that is, there is no clutch lever on the steering wheel. The box is almost the same. That is, oil is not poured into it separately.

Start of renovation

Before starting repairs, place the motorcycle on a comfortable and reliable stand, so that the front wheel is free. Next you will need to remove the wheel and disconnect it from the brake mechanism. In some cases, it is also necessary to remove the wing or rudder.

You should start by “undermining” the plugs of the feathers. Not by unscrewing, but by changing the position of the cover by a quarter turn. Corks are always made with decorative processing or chrome plated. If you don’t have a reliable and clearly sized key on hand, you shouldn’t injure the plugs.

A slight slippage or licking of the edges will immediately ruin the attractive appearance. Some craftsmen use fabric or thin rubber as a gasket. This method cannot prevent the appearance of scratches, even if you try very hard.

A closed plug will not only protect the cylinders from dirt, but will also prevent injury from a fired, tense steel spring. After loosening the traverse bolts, you need to smoothly remove the fork. Before this procedure, you should have a container prepared to remove used oil from the fork. Turn the fork over and drain the oil from the feathers. Judging by the color and consistency, it becomes clear why the fork was cottony or too hard.

How to check the brake system

One of the mandatory components that needs to be checked during maintenance is the brake system. The wear of its components depends on driving conditions and driving style. If the rider brakes frequently, rides on dirt roads or off-road, the brake linings will wear out quickly. Therefore, system setup may be required much faster than indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. Also, if the components are damaged, the rider will have to buy new spare parts for the motorcycle.

Important! Regularly check the condition of the brake friction linings. If the thickness in any area becomes less than 1.5 mm, the brake pad must be replaced.

Front brake maintenance is carried out according to the following scheme:

Loosen the adjusting nut.
Adjust the cable length.
Check the brake lever travel. It should be approximately 8-15 mm;
Lower the lever. Remember that the wheel should rotate freely without touching the pads.

After the procedure, you need to check whether the adjusting nut is tightly clamped. It should touch the surface of the pin cylinder with its concave end. The rear brake is adjusted according to the following scheme:

The adjusting nut is twisted.
The cable length is adjustable.
Check the travel at the end of the brake pedal. It should be 20-30 mm.
The pedal is released. In this case, the wheel should spin freely without touching the brake.

After completing the above steps, the adjusting nut is tightened. In this case, it should be adjacent to the pin with its concave end.

Oil for four-stroke engines

This phrase means that you cannot fill the moped engine with oil for two-stroke engines. What remains for our client to do? What exists is that two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: their oil is mixed with gasoline in certain proportions (either in the gas tank, or using a special oil pump), and then, together with gasoline, it first enters the engine crankcase , lubricating the crankshaft bearings, not the connecting rod, and naturally the cylinder mirror. Then the mixture enters the combustion chamber, where the oil burns together with gasoline and is not removed from the engine through the exhaust pipe. Thus, two-stroke oil is not designed for long-term operation

, it is “disposable”.

In the main part of four-stroke engines (and the Alpha’s engine is four-stroke), oil is poured into the engine crankcase and does not lubricate the rubbing parts either by splashing (due to the introduction of rotating engine parts) or under pressure (which is done by the oil pump). Oil also helps cool the engine. What oil to fill in VAZ-2114 8 valves: choice. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand a couple of years of operation at high temperatures.

Some owners ask: “Do I need to add oil to gasoline?” Alfa moped, replacing the air filter "Car" oil in a motorcycle. Remember: for Alpha mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) there is no need to add oil to gasoline!

Changing engine oil

Draining used oil

We place the scooter on the center stand; if it is crooked, we straighten it. On the left side in the direction of travel of the scooter, at the very bottom of the engine, look for the drain plug, place a previously prepared container under the plug and unscrew the drain plug with a 17mm head.

While the oil is draining, go to the right side of the scooter and unscrew the dipstick and the oil filter plug, which is located at the very bottom of the engine.

We put a good 17 socket on the plug, unscrew it and remove it with all its contents from the engine.

This is the oil filter. Immediately after unscrewing it, while the point is still important - throw all this junk into clean gasoline, give it a good shake, and then blow it out and dry it.

After the oil filter plug is removed from the engine. In order to remove any remaining oil from the engine, pump the engine several times using the kickstarter.

Then we wait about five minutes - wipe the drain holes dry, for greater reliability, apply sealant to the plugs and screw them into place.

Filling the engine with new oil and checking its level

Depending on the design of the canister, pour oil into the neck either directly from the canister itself or through a funnel. The funnel must be clean!

Oil level control

The oil level is checked as follows: pour the first portion of oil into the engine, approximately 600-700 ml, wait a couple of minutes until the oil spreads evenly over the crankcase without twisting, insert the dipstick all the way into the filler neck, remove it and check the level.

The oil level must be within the control area.

If the level is lower, add a little oil, wait a couple of minutes and take a measurement.
If the oil level is higher than normal, drain it or, better yet, pump it out using a syringe with a tube from the neck.

The control area is indicated by red arrows. In my case, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the control section and is indicated by a blue arrow. Ideally, the oil level should be near the upper boundary of the control section. But this is ideal, but in practice, the average level is quite acceptable and does not in any way affect the reliability and durability of the engine.

Work order

First you need to decide what you will need; to change the oil in your motorcycle you will need the following tools:

Using the scale on the syringe, you can monitor the level of the filled oil; this is very convenient and will not allow you to make a serious mistake in the calculations.

Before you start draining the oil, you should check where the lower plug is located on your motorcycle. Usually it is located either at the end or at the lower side of the fork, although it may be completely absent.

Advice! When changing the rigidity of the motorcycle suspension, do not go beyond the limits specified in the instructions, otherwise this may lead to an imbalance in the operation of the front fork of the bike!

Advice! First of all, unscrew the top plug, and then the bottom one; if you do the opposite, the waste can flow out under great pressure and splash everything around.

Here's everything you need to know to change the lubricants in the front suspension of most motorcycle models yourself, using these instructions you can save significant money.

Why is break-in necessary?

The purpose of the break-in is to ensure that all interacting parts of the engine and transmission get used to it, and so that the output remains within the permissible deviations. As a result, defects in the piston rings and cylinder walls are rubbed in. As a result, the compression necessary for the efficiency of the power unit to correspond to that declared by the manufacturer will be maintained.

The peculiarity lies in the fact that we are not only talking about the new Alpha. When a major overhaul of the engine has been carried out with the replacement of piston rings and other engine parts, it is necessary to give them the opportunity to “get used” to each other. The running-in procedure is identical in both cases. It consists in the fact that in the first hundreds of kilometers of the run it is necessary to monitor a number of parameters.

API classification

API is a quality classification system for automobile oils. What kind of oil to pour into a VAZ car engine for the winter. The oil designation in this system consists of Latin letters.

The first part can be either S (Service)

— oil for gasoline engines, C (Commercial)

— oil for diesel engines,
EC (Energy Conserving)
— energy-saving oils.

The next letter is the designation of the oil generation. The designation is in alphabetical order, i.e. The farther the letter is from the beginning of the Latin alphabet, the higher the generation of oil (better performance qualities).

API categories SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG are currently recognized as invalid, category SH is considered conditionally valid. Thus, oil categories SE

and S.F.

Can't find it on sale right now. What kind of oil should you buy then? The answer is to buy any one that is further down the alphabet (SJ, SL, SM, SN), it will in any case be no worse than the recommended one.

SAE classification

The latest edition of the classification divides motor oils into 11 classes: 6 winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W) and 5 summer (20, 30, 40, 50, 60) viscosity classes. Letter W

(Winter) before the number means that the oil is adapted to work at low temperatures.

Most motor oils on the market today are all-season, i.e. they meet viscosity requirements at both low and high temperatures and have a double designation, for example in our case: SAE 15W-40

. how much oil should be poured into the YaMZ-236 engine. What kind of oil to fill in Renault The first number characterizes the pumpability of the oil at low temperatures. We choose which is better to fill the oil into the VAZ-2114 8-valve injection engine. If you subtract 35 from the first digit, you get the minimum temperature at which a safe cold start of the engine is possible. The second number is an indicator of oil viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. If you add 5 to the second digit, you get the maximum permissible air temperature at which the oil can be used.

Motorcycle oil: which is better to choose for a 4-stroke or 2-stroke engine - ranking of the best

Bikers, professional athletes and simply lovers of two-wheeled vehicles know very well that proper maintenance of an iron horse is the key to long-term operation and safety on the road. Therefore, they are very responsible about all parts, as well as consumables and liquids. In this article we will tell you what is the best motor oil to fill into motorcycles for four-stroke or two-stroke air-cooled engines or a motorcycle with a radiator.

Depending on the technical characteristics, cost and components contained within the substance, all fuels and lubricants are divided into categories. All of them are suitable for four-stroke bikes.

Mineral

It is the simplest, cheapest, manufactured as a purified petroleum product and contains a very low proportion (up to 20%) of synthetic impurities. The quality of the fluid depends on the cleaning method and how good the additives were used. The optimal choice for bikes with a V-twin engine.

Semi-synthetic

This is an analogue of the previous option, but the share of synthetics in it is much higher - up to 50%. This ensures more stable operation under temperature changes, as well as much better behavior of a cold, unheated engine, since stickiness is reduced and viscosity remains the same even at very high temperatures.

Synthetic

The most perfect option in terms of durability. The percentage of substances obtained by organic synthesis is very high and exceeds 50-60%

. But the exact quantity of these additives, as well as their quality, can vary quite a lot depending on the class and cost, as well as on the manufacturer.

Recommendations for choosing motorcycle oil

The type of fluid chosen directly depends on the type of engine. He can be:

Push-pull.
They are usually equipped with light motorcycles and scooters. Also, such equipment was produced in the USSR - some models of “Planets” and “Izhey” can still be found among hobbyists. Fuel and lubricants are added directly to the gasoline tank and mixed. Typically at a concentration of 1:50.
Four stroke.
Such motors are found on most modern bikes. They require a higher quality product that is not mixed with other components, but is simply poured as a separate product.

The second reason for making the right choice is precisely the classification of motor oil that we presented above. This is manufactured using three different technologies, which result in a mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic material.

There are also not recommendations, but rather requirements on how to choose a product. In 1998, the Japanese standard JASO T 903 was developed, which specifies all the minimum and maximum permissible technical characteristics of fuels and lubricants for four-stroke motorcycles. One of the main criteria that distinguished the product from machine compounds was the behavior of the engine with a wet clutch. And if the liquid has not been certified according to JASO requirements, then it cannot be recommended for use by motorcycle manufacturers.

Below we will show other parameters that determine which oil is best to pour into a motorcycle.

Viscosity and classification of motor oil

We use the American SAE designation system, which is most commonly used throughout the world. Nowadays, products are not divided by season, they are usually called non-seasonal, so it must remain sufficiently liquid during cold starts, and also not spread too much (be viscous) at high temperatures. In order to understand exactly what composition is in front of us according to these indicators, we use markings with the letter W and numbers. Those values that appear before the letter indicate the minimum possible temperature, and after - the maximum permissible. Example: 5W40, 10W30, 10W40 are not very viscous compounds that are well suited for those who like to ride in extreme conditions when the snow has not melted from the asphalt everywhere. This is a great option for pit bikes. But for heavy bikes and sportbikes, the more optimal ones are 10W50, 10W60, 15W50, 20W50 with increased viscosity.

Front fork

I was thinking about changing the oil in the front fork on an Alfa, I looked on the Internet and found how much to pour (in the Alfa 120 ml, in the Delta 160 ml (in each leg)), but I couldn’t find any exact criteria about what kind of oil to pour there. Questions: Have you changed the oil in the fork? Which one did you fill and how many ml? At what mileage did you decide to change the oil?

Added after 5 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no mount for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the fork from King and whether it will fit into the Alpha yokes

There, as far as I know, the oil is not changed but topped up as needed. They suggested oil to me and 20. spindle in common parlance.

Added after 2 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no fastening for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the King fork and whether it will fit into the Alpha crossbars [/ quote]

Take and measure the diameters of the pipes with a rod of both. And compare. But there is no reason to install a disk drive on 50 cubic meters. And then decide for yourself.

I changed it and barely opened the feathers. Clamped in a vice in a barbaric manner, removed the decor on the fork and clamped it in it. So I opened it. I temporarily filled it with 10w40, at least better than the original oil. I poured it to the edge in clamped fork. (This might be correct, but it’s temporary)

How many gears are there on a Karpaty moped?

Transmission: clutch - multi-disc; number of gears

— 2 (I—1.64; II—0.93). Chassis: frame - tubular, spinal type; front fork - telescopic with spring shock absorbers; rear suspension - pendulum with spring shock absorbers; wheels are interchangeable; Tire size: 2.50-16 inches.

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Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?

It is generally accepted that synthetic oils are of the highest quality and almost extend the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above, now any oil that has been certified according to the API standard is suitable for use in the Alpha moped engine.

I chose the golden mean for myself: I pour semi-synthetics from imported manufacturers into my moped, because... the price of a liter of semi-synthetic oil is now not much different from the price of mineral oil.

But only now you can rarely find semi-synthetic 15W-40 on store shelves. Mostly mineral oils are sold with this designation. Therefore, I fill the engine with 10W-40 oil as the closest to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

How to properly break in an Alpha moped?

The whole procedure is divided into 4 stages. For each of them, it is necessary to adhere to the operating modes recommended by the manufacturer. Before the first departure, you need to start the engine and let it idle for 25-40 minutes. There is no need to twist the accelerator handle. The speed should be minimal. Next, the running-in is performed in the following order:

For the first two hundred kilometers, you cannot drive faster than 30-35 km/h. Less is possible, but this range is optimal.
From 200 to 400 kilometers is the period for increasing driving speed to 40 km/h. It is important to monitor the engine temperature.
After driving the first 400 kilometers, the moped can be accelerated to 50 km/h, but sudden acceleration is prohibited so as not to overload the engine.
After 600 km, you need to go another hundred at a speed of no more than 60 km/h. The temperature should not go beyond acceptable limits, acceleration is always smooth.

Now the moped can be used to its full potential. But speed and temperature limits are not the only things you need to adhere to. During the running-in process, do not transport cargo or carry passengers. If possible, the load should be kept to a minimum.

Responsible process

The controllability of the motorcycle, and, consequently, the safety of the driver and others depends on the correct selection of oil for the fork. It is best to follow the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturer, but increase the viscosity of the technical fluid when components wear in order to achieve good damping characteristics. It is also worth paying attention to the oil change procedure - the ability to adjust the suspension and obtain optimal rigidity depends on its correct implementation. We must not forget about flushing the fork after draining the old oil - drops of technical fluid remaining inside and chips obtained from friction between the components can significantly affect the characteristics of the shock absorbers. If you are not sure that you can perform an oil change and suspension adjustment yourself, contact professional mechanics, since your interventions can only cause harm.

How often should you change the oil in your moped?

In the operating instructions, the first oil change (on a new moped) is after 500 kilometers (TO-1). We have already familiarized ourselves with the method of checking the oil level in the automatic transmission system, and now we will look at how to determine what kind of oil is poured into the automatic transmission, how much and how to add oil to the automatic transmission? The second replacement is at 1500 km (TO-2). The third replacement is at 3000 km. (TO-3). Find out in detail what kind of oil the manufacturer recommends pouring into the gearbox of the 8-valve VAZ-2114. Then every 2000 km. But there is an indication that if the moped is operated under increased loads and in dusty conditions, the oil needs to be changed (maintenance) more often.

Choosing oil for the Hyundai Solaris engine The engine is the part of the car that especially needs lubrication. How to choose the right oil? After all, the assortment is so wide. Store shelves are practically lined with various canisters and not cans. What kind of oil should I put in Hyundai Solaris? There are two ways to answer this question. Option one. Here-…

What kind of oil to pour into the Alpha moped engine.

Many questions arise from people who are servicing a moped themselves for the first time.

The operating instructions require the use of oil for four-stroke engines, API SE, SF, viscosity SAE 15W40.

Let's try to figure out what this means.

Gearbox oil

The instructions say what kind of oil should be poured into the engine, but there is not a word about the gearbox. Although we are all accustomed to the fact that transmission oil is poured into the box, usually thicker than in the engine.

Owners of Alpha mopeds (and the like) need to know that the gearbox, engine and clutch are located in the same (common) crankcase and are lubricated with the same oil . This way you don’t have to think about what kind of oil needs to be poured and where. It is one!

Frequency of planned replacements

The oil for a motorcycle fork is changed according to its service life after approximately 10-15 thousand kilometers; this figure largely depends on the manufacturer and its recommendations. If the replacement is not made on time, the motorcycle may lose control and the suspension will behave unpredictably.

It would be ideal to combine a scheduled oil change with a major suspension overhaul; in this case, it will be easier to replace the old seals. After a major overhaul and renewal of the seals, the fork stiffness will increase, and its adjustment can be made much less frequently.

Most often, the oil loses some of its qualities after a long winter period of inactivity, in which case it is recommended to change it as well.

The loads placed on the suspension of a motorcycle participating in sports competitions reduce the service life of the oil. In some cases, it can be reduced by three times.

Although most motorcyclists decide to change the oil only after noticeable wear of the fork. It manifests itself in dives during braking and in disruption of the bike's stability at high speeds.

Advice! In order to mitigate these problems, the oil should be replaced with one that has high kinetic viscosity.

Maintenance of the Alpha moped during the run-in period and after

Lapping involves the appearance of metallic inclusions in the oil in the form of small chips. When there is too much of it, it becomes an abrasive that can ruin the engine and completely damage it. Of course, you can go to Motozilla and buy any spare parts for an Alpha moped , but why spend money?

To avoid this, after the first 400 km you need to change the oil in the crankcase. By the way, you can also buy it, as well as many other things, on Motozilla. And when you test drive an Alpha, you don’t need to force things and increase the mileage for days. After driving for 30-40 minutes, give the engine time to cool down. A quarter of an hour is enough for this. If you follow these recommendations, your moped will last a long time.

Oil for four-stroke engines

This phrase means that you cannot fill the engine with 2-stroke engine. The fact is that two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: they mix oil with gasoline in certain proportions (either in the gas tank or using a special oil pump), and then, together with gasoline, enter the engine crankcase, lubricating the crankshaft bearings and connecting rod, as well as a cylinder mirror. The mixture then enters the combustion chamber, where the oil burns along with gasoline and is removed from the engine through the exhaust pipe. In this case, two-stroke oil is not intended for long-term use.

In most four-stroke engines (and the Alfa four-stroke engine), oil is poured into the crankcase and lubricates the cloth parts either by spray (due to the rotating parts of the engine) or under pressure (which creates an axial pump). In addition, the oil helps cool the engine. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand a long service life at high temperatures.

Some owners ask: “Do I need to add oil to gasoline?” Remember: for Alpha mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) you do not need to add oil to gasoline!

How to choose oil for a moped?

To choose the right oil for a moped, consulting a salesperson in a store is not enough. Moreover, many of them have only superficial knowledge of the characteristics and properties of motor oils.

Motor oils should be selected depending on the engine installed on the motorcycle.

It should be remembered that in the regulatory and technical literature there is no special term “scooter oil”. However, in the store you often find oils specifically designed for motorcycle and moped engines. You can purchase them with confidence, paying attention only to what type of engine they are suitable for: two-stroke or four-stroke.

Can I put car oil into an Alpha Delta moped?

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The first part can be either S (Service)

. petrol engine oil, C (Commercial)

.
Diesel engine oil, EC (Energy Saving)
. energy-saving oils.

Next letter. oil generation symbol. The designation is in alphabetical order, that is, the further the letter is from the beginning of the Latin alphabet. that oil generation is higher (performance is better).

Currently, API categories API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG are considered invalid, category SH is considered conditionally valid. Therefore it is recommended in the instructions for moped categories SE

as well as SF

You can't find it on sale right now. Then what oil should you buy? The answer is to buy any, following in alphabetical order (SJ, SL, SM, SN), it will in any case be no worse than the recommended one.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?

It is generally accepted that synthetic oils are of the highest quality and almost extend the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above, now any oil that has been certified in accordance with the API standard is suitable for use in the Alpha moped engine.

I have chosen a golden mean for myself: I introduce semi-synthetic imported manufacturers into the moped; The price of a liter of semi-synthetic oil is not much different from the price of petroleum products.

But only now it is rarely found on the shelves of semi-synthetic 15W-40. Mostly mineral oils are sold under this designation. Therefore, I fill the engine with 10W-40 oil as closest to the manufacturer's recommendations.

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