Moped Karpaty engine repair video

They asked me to put the allegedly still quite “good” (as the owner said: it has a spark and you just need to tune it and check the first gear as it was knocking out. Well, we’ll see...) moped. As often happens in practice, a supposedly “good” one turns out to be complete rubbish. My further intervention in the technical part of this issue only confirmed this truth.

A quick inspection revealed extensive areas of corrosion, crooked wheels, a frame torn in three places, broken sprockets and chain, missing many bolts and much more.

I remembered my youth, brought a table with tools to the moped and set to work with the same enthusiasm. And there was a lot to do here...

Apparently the roof was leaking in the barn. How else can we explain the presence of water in the generator cover?.. To my surprise, given the state of the generator, there was a spark, and a good one at that.

Photo report: How to disassemble the engine of the Karpaty moped

I once had such a device.
And if you don’t even want to remember all the other outliers of the Soviet motorcycle industry. I have only warm memories about this moped. Yes, he had a lot of shortcomings, but at that time, owning a “Karpacz” as we called him back then was very, very cool. They asked me to put the allegedly still quite “good” (as the owner said: it has a spark and you just need to tune it and check the first gear as it was knocking out. Well, we’ll see...) moped. As often happens in practice, a supposedly “good” one turns out to be complete rubbish. My further intervention in the technical part of this issue only confirmed this truth.

A quick inspection revealed extensive areas of corrosion, crooked wheels, a frame torn in three places, broken sprockets and chain, missing many bolts and much more.

I remembered my youth, brought a table with tools to the moped and set to work with the same enthusiasm. And there was a lot to do here...

Apparently the roof was leaking in the barn. How else can we explain the presence of water in the generator cover? To my surprise, given the condition of the generator, there was a spark, and a good one.

Clutch

The weakest component in the engine of this moped is the clutch. And it fails first. Oh, and we suffered with this clutch, not only on “Karpaty”, but also on “Riga” and “Verkhovyna”.

In this clutch, the release lever was screwed in first. In those days we called it “bronze finger”. At that time, this device was in terrible short supply and it was simply impossible to find it.

In the one I tested, the release valve was in working order. As they say, he still has to walk and walk.

For those who don’t know, the release lever is located here. Pay attention to how much chips and dirt there are in this engine.

The second weak point of the clutch is its pressure plate, in which it constantly breaks the locking grooves, causing it to fly off the basket.

Removing the pressure disk is very simple: insert a screwdriver into a special hole, hit it a couple of times with a hammer and the disk comes off.

In this example, the grooves through which the disc engages with the basket are still good. Sometimes they are so broken that the disk simply no longer holds on. In such cases, the disk had to be replaced.

The clutch basket spring does not cause any trouble.

The nut that secures the inner drum of the basket was no longer original. There was no thread on it, just like on the crankshaft journal, and it was simply flattened and hammered onto the shaft. It is worth saying that the thread and this entire assembly as a whole are very flimsy. And because of this, the threads constantly screw up and break the splines. And on all engines of this series without exception.

If your nut turns out to be well tightened (which happens very, very rarely), fix the piston through the outlet window with a screwdriver and unscrew it.

The collective farm grower who slapped the nut under the nut did not solve the situation with its spontaneous unscrewing. This is not surprising - the problem is not in the nut, but in the level of technical literacy of the creators of this engine.

The inner drum splines are badly worn. Rapid wear of the splines of this pair is a typical problem with engines of this series.

On all clutch pressure plates without exception, the fingers with which they engage with each other dangle. I put them on the anvil, riveted them on the reverse side and forgot about this problem for a while.

Clutch discs, unlike other clutch parts, do not cause unnecessary trouble.

Often and thickly, the gear breaks off on the outer drum of the clutch basket. I corrected this situation something like this: I put the torn gear back into the basket, pressed it against the basket with a clamp, poured water into the jar, laid the basket on the jar so that the gear was completely hidden in the water and welded it to the body. Then I polished the welds and got a fully functional basket.

The basket on this example is perfect.

The spacer bushing for the outer drum was no longer original and most likely homemade.

We fix the gearbox input shaft gear from turning, unbend the lock washer and unscrew the nut.

The driven gear never breaks and runs for decades. And for some reason the nut that holds it does not unscrew... How can this be done. Two almost identical units are located next to each other, made at the same factory, developed by the same designers. But no. The nut on the basket unscrews, but not on the gearbox input shaft. What is this? Another paradox? A mystery of nature? The machinations of evil spirits? Accident?

Piston

Unscrew the nuts on the head and remove it from the cylinder. The head and piston for this engine were pristinely clean. Apparently, just before this moped departed for the “other world,” they had already tinkered with it.

The cylinder was removed with great difficulty. Water got into the holes where the pins go and the whole thing became very rusty. A piece fell off from the piston on the exhaust side. This moment is clearly visible in the photo. How did he fly away? Who knows. Maybe they broke it off, or maybe it flew off...

The cylinder mirror was in poor condition. The wear and scratches did their job: compression in the combustion chamber dropped significantly.

The total wear of the piston group was more than 0.09 mm, with a norm of 0.05. For those who don’t know: the wear of the piston group is measured as follows: we wash the piston and cylinder from dirt and old oil residues, insert the piston into the cylinder, orient it in the cylinder as it should stand on the engine, align its skirt with the edge of the cylinder and measure the gap with a feeler gauge between the skirt and the cylinder.

This gap will determine the degree of wear of the piston group. For Soviet garbage dumps, when using very good oil, the norm is 0.03 mm, for bad oil 0.05 mm. Anything more means increased wear.

Collective farm gurus naively believe that the situation with piston wear can be solved by installing new rings. You don’t see these fabrications. And this is not fabrication, but an eternal search for freebies - this is where all sorts of stories about rings and “suprotec” are born.

No rings, even the most “duper” ones, will restore the original geometry of the cylinder and will never fit tightly to a cylinder that has wear in the form of a cone and an ellipse. And for internal combustion engine cylinders, cylinder wear only occurs in the form of a cone along the longitudinal axis and in the form of an ellipse in the transverse axis.

Think for yourself: how can an ideal circle in the form of a new piston ring fit tightly onto an ellipse? She won't lie down.

Remove the bolts on the crankcase.

We take a technical hair dryer, heat the crankcase with it, warm the places under the bearings especially well and hit the shafts with a mallet to “halve” the engine.

The gearbox parts in this particular engine were of disgusting quality. On those still old mopeds, the parts were much better quality than on this example. It’s not surprising - this moped was produced in 1994, and in those years the quality of the products dropped many times over.

The cam clutches on the gearbox parts of this engine are somehow strange. Either they came like this from the factory, or someone had already managed to take them away from the collective farm. Unclear. Only one thing is clear: the quality is complete guano, even in the photo you can see how the coupling cams were simply cut either with a “grinder” or on a machine - I still don’t understand.

The carriage that includes the gears had severe wear on the edges of the jaw couplings. Hence the problems with the transmission jumping out.

Crankshaft

The crankshaft was loose and needed to be replaced with a new one or just the connecting rod.

The threads for some of the bolts were torn off and to prevent the bolts from falling out, someone flattened them and hammered them in with a hammer. We did the same with the drain plug.

By and large, there is nothing more to say about this engine. In addition to these, there are many more jambs in it, and the site’s resources are not unlimited, so, perhaps, I’ll summarize.

I took all this junk apart, washed it, rejected the parts and made a list of what I needed to buy. And then incomprehensible conversations began, which I really don’t like: they say, “you repair it.” — What about spare parts? “Yes, you understand, there’s no money now, it’s a lot of money” (...)

I waited, I waited for the financial tranche, but it never came. I collected these shakes in a bag, threw them into the cradle and sent this “Karpacz” back to where he came to me from.

Source

Starting the car moving

There are several main stages:

We continue moving and come to the second case, when switching should occur. Yes, you can drive at first speed, but the engine will go crazy and the tachometer speed will go into the red zone. If you drive in first gear, the fuel consumption will be crazy; KAMAZ drivers will not envy you.

Peculiarities

Despite the fact that it was almost impossible to somehow tune the unit, its ease of maintenance and the ability to independently repair absolutely all units certainly played a key role in its popularity. Original spare parts for the Karpaty moped were made of high-quality metal, although equipment of that time often broke down due to design and technical defects.

The trunk of the vehicle in question could withstand more than one hundredweight of cargo. The tires had a high tread, which made it possible to operate the equipment in winter. Drum brakes were quite enough for the weight and dynamics of the small motorcycle. The power unit itself is a regular two-stroke engine. Almost every owner of this representative of motorcycle equipment can replace the rings or piston.

Owner reviews

There are many ardent supporters and opponents of this moped. The former are more likely to include those who like to delve into technology with their own hands and achieve certain results. If you analyze the majority of reviews, you can find out what users like and why they are persistently negative.

The Karpaty moped has the following advantages:

Economical.
Practicality.
Easy to repair.
Good handling.
Decent design.

Users identified the following aspects as disadvantages:

Low speed.
Lack of original spare parts on the modern market.
Rapid overheating in hot weather.
Not very high quality shock absorbers and weak side shields.

It is worth noting that some lovers of two-wheeled vehicles collect entire collections of Soviet-made mopeds and restore them. The cost of the vehicle in question depends on its condition and modification. The Karpaty moped, the price of which varies from 100 to 500 dollars, can be purchased exclusively on the secondary market. It’s easy to find a suitable model on online resources involved in buying and selling.

Moped Carpathians. review, repair, tuning

The Karpaty moped is one of the most popular two-wheeled vehicles in the entire post-Soviet space. It gained such popularity thanks to many factors, including good quality (at the time of the start of production, compared to other two-wheeled vehicles, the Karpaty moped was famous for its fairly high quality of workmanship compared to its competitors), original design, which resembled a small motorcycle, double seat (optional , the second one was not comfortable to sit, but the competitors didn’t have that either).

Among the innovations, noteworthy is the three-pad clutch, which we will disassemble and assemble later. Two speeds in the gearbox were enough for a smooth start and to achieve the maximum speed recommended by the manufacturer of 45 km. at one o'clock. But in practice, sometimes it was possible to achieve a speed of 60 km. at one o'clock.

There was no tuning at all, replacing the sprocket with a larger one will give the effect of increasing speed, but you won’t get a start, you’ll have to work with your feet. Of course, this was due to a weak engine (about 1.8 hp) and only two gears.

Nevertheless, the Karpaty moped at one time became a bestseller; its absolute ease of maintenance and engine repair gave almost every owner the opportunity to learn how to repair it. It should be noted that quite often it broke down, be it gears, clutch, the engine did not start, etc. And now you can meet a lot of dissatisfied owners of such vehicles, who are tired of constantly fiddling with spare parts. But unlike modern Chinese analogues, the metal and engine parts are of higher quality. Of course, at that time they did not skimp on metal parts; everything was done to the highest standards.

Proof of this is the trunk, which carried more than one ton of potatoes and other cargo, although the manufacturer recommended not to overload it.

Tires with high tread were installed on the Karpaty moped, which made it possible to operate it in winter and in mud.

Both brakes are drum brakes, but this is enough, because it does not have the same dynamics and speed as Japanese scooters.

Almost any owner can replace the piston or rings. Unlike Chinese mopeds and scooterettes, where a four-stroke engine is installed, the Karpaty moped has a two-stroke engine; in addition, there is enough space around it to easily remove the cylinder-piston group for repair. To do this, simply unscrew the muffler and carburetor mounting bolts and remove the spark plug. The engine design is practically no different from Japanese and Chinese two-stroke scooters

How to adjust the gear shift drive

The occurrence of any problems with gear shifting does not always mean a serious breakdown of the gearbox. If gears are difficult to engage, difficulties have arisen with selecting a gear, which prevents engagement, etc., then in some cases it is sufficient to adjust the gear shift drive. At the same time, you can adjust the manual transmission drive either at a service station or independently.

Read in this article

Adjusting the gear shift drive

Before regulating anything, you need to have an idea of how this or that mechanism works, how it works, etc. First, let's look at the design and principle of operation of a manual gearbox (gearbox) in general terms.

The gearbox converts and transmits torque from the engine to the drive wheels so that the car can move off and change speed. There are four types of gearboxes: manual, automatic, robotic and CVT.

The first two types are the most common today. Taking into account the fact that a manual transmission or “mechanics” has a simpler design, we will consider just such a unit as an example.

Competitors

The closest competitor in terms of characteristics was the Verkhovyna vehicle. The Karpaty moped's ignition, clutch assembly, design and some other indicators were significantly superior to its rival. In addition, the Delta, Verkhovyna-7 competed with the vehicle in question. Although all components of these variations were modernized, preference was given to the Carpathians.

There are several reasons for this. Firstly, the price of the Delta was higher, and it was produced in Riga. Secondly, the improved Verkhovyna had a warranty mileage of 6,000 kilometers, and a service life before major repairs of 15 thousand. The Carpathian moped at the same time had eight and eighteen thousand, respectively.

More than one generation, especially in rural areas, has studied every cog in this unit. A brief overview of the location of the main elements:

It is worth noting that there is no electric starter, so a fairly popular way to start the engine was to activate it with a push or paw.

Specifications

What technical parameters does the Karpaty moped have? Characteristics of the main components are presented below:

Full weight - 55 kg.
Maximum load - 100 kg.
Base - 1.2 m.
Length/height/width - 1.8/1.1/0.7 m.
Clearance - 10 cm.
The maximum speed limit according to the passport is up to 45 km/h.
Fuel consumption per hundred is 2.1 liters.
Frame type - construction based on welding of a tubular sample.
The front suspension unit is a telescopic fork, spring shock absorbers.
The rear suspension is shock-absorbing springs with a pendulum.
The total braking distance at 30 km/h is 7.6 m.
Tire categories - 2.50-16 or 2.75-16 inches.
The power unit is a V-50 carburetor, two strokes, air cooling.
Volume - 49.9 cubic meters. cm.
Cylinder size: 3.8 cm.
Piston stroke - 4.4 cm.
Compression ratios range from 7 to 8.5.
Motor power - 1.5 l. With.
Maximum torque – 5200 rpm.
Transmission - two stages, manual or similar with foot switch.

Clutch

The weakest component in the engine of this moped is the clutch. And it fails first. Oh, and we suffered with this clutch, not only on “Karpaty”, but also on “Riga” and “Verkhovyna”.

In this clutch, the release lever was screwed in first. In those days we called it “bronze finger”. At that time, this device was in terrible short supply and it was simply impossible to find it.

In the one I tested, the release valve was in working order. As they say, he still has to walk and walk.

For those who don’t know, the release lever is located here. Pay attention to how much chips and dirt there are in this engine.

The second weak point of the clutch is its pressure plate, in which it constantly breaks the locking grooves, causing it to fly off the basket.

Removing the pressure disk is very simple: insert a screwdriver into a special hole, hit it a couple of times with a hammer and the disk comes off.

The clutch basket spring does not cause any trouble.

If your nut turns out to be well tightened (which happens very, very rarely), fix the piston through the outlet window with a screwdriver and unscrew it.

The inner drum splines are badly worn. Rapid wear of the splines of this pair is a typical problem with engines of this series.

Clutch discs, unlike other clutch parts, do not cause unnecessary trouble.

The basket on this example is perfect.

The spacer bushing for the outer drum was no longer original and most likely homemade.

We fix the gearbox input shaft gear from turning, unbend the lock washer and unscrew the nut.

Nuances of repair work

Almost every owner could repair a Karpaty moped on their own. Quite often it was necessary to rebuild the engine. No matter how difficult this work may seem, thanks to the simple design of the motor of the unit in question, everything could be done quickly and efficiently.

If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the bearings, crankshaft, rings, the engine will need to be split. This is a relatively simple procedure, much more difficult to put everything back together correctly. Although, if you pay close attention to the process and recommendations in the instructions, everything is very real.

Gaskets for the muffler can be cut out of thick cardboard and lubricated with grease. Important: when tightening the nuts, it is necessary to maintain the optimal force, avoiding insufficient fastening or stripping the threads. The Karpaty moped runs on a mixture of gasoline and oil; there is no special oil receiver. The optimal fuel is AI-80.

Other parameters

Other characteristics that the Karpaty moped has are as follows:

Electrical equipment - contactless electronic ignition system with alternator.
Transmission - multi-disc clutch.
Fuel capacity - 7 liters.
The motor transmission ratio is 4.75.
The same ratio from the gearbox to the rear wheel is 2.2.
Carburetor type - K60V.
The energy supplier is a 6 V AC generator with a power of 45 W.
The filter element is air type with a paper filter.
Gas exhaust - a muffler with partitions for throttling the exhaust.
The fuel mixture is A-76-80 gasoline with oil (ratio - 100:4).

The clutch of the Karpaty moped is an innovative solution at that time. This is a three-block or multi-disc type unit. For low-power two-wheeled vehicles, such a design was a novelty.

Carpathians (moped)

«Carpathians

"(
Ukrainian Karpati
) - mokik. produced at the Lvov Motor Plant. Previously, the plant specialized in the production of trailers, but in 1958 it was decided to develop a new direction - the production of mopeds. Initially, a series of moped models “Verkhovyna” was released, which had a significant impact on domestic motor vehicles of that time [1]. Since the spring of 1981, the plant began producing the Karpaty-1 model; in 1986 it was replaced by a modified model “Karpaty-2”. Mokiki "Karpaty-2" and "Delta" (Riga Motor Plant) were similar in design and differed in minor details [2]. Models produced: