Replacing a motorcycle generator with a more advanced 1000 or 750 watt

Video text

Today we will talk about a generator, and as you probably already guessed, instead of the standard one, I plan to install a generator from a tractor with a power of 1000 watts!
I bought it from an oppositionist named Sergei Krasnov. Sergey has a special contact group dedicated to the G-700 and G-1000 tractor generators, which he converts for Ural and Dnepr motorcycles. For those interested, here is the link to the group: https://vk.com/kilovat_uralAnd Sergei also has a separate topic on these generators on Oppzit.ru: https://oppozit.ru/post_83671.html

But, despite the fact that the G-1000 generator from a tractor has already been adapted for installation on Ural and Dnepr motorcycles, it cannot be simply installed))

Time code for the convenience of people installing such a generator on a Ural motorcycle: 1:27 Checking the generator for functionality 3:21 Review of the G-1000 generator, what are its advantages 4:52 Preparing the crankcase for installing a new generator 9:27 Removing the gear from the old generator 11:07 Installing the gear on the new generator G-100013:26 Adjusting the generator, adjusting the gap on the gears of the generator and camshaft16:10 Beautifying and polishing the generator17:44 Final installation of the generator on the gasket using sealant18:45 Connecting electrical wiring to the new generator

The fact is that the original 150 Watt generators of our motorcycle are weak and quite often fail, but the new generators are all Chinese and the opposition does not favor them. But the converted generator from a tractor, adapted to work on our motorcycle, has proven itself very well. In addition to the fact that it is many times more powerful and works more durable, it has several more advantages, such as: - this generator is self-excited, which means , that now you can start a motorcycle from a pusher, even if there is no battery at all. - the relay regulator is already built into the generator itself, which allows you to get rid of some of the wires and the standard relay, thereby making it possible to make a more compact and aesthetically pleasing arrangement of electrical wiring.________________________

ABOUT THE CHANNEL “SANYA CHETODEL”___________________________

As you might guess, they called me that because I am constantly doing something. I really love working and creating things with my own hands. At the same time, I constantly force myself to learn something new and unknown. For example, in these videos I am repairing an old Ural motorcycle, on which, based on the results of the repair, I plan to go on a trip to Crimea. This motorcycle will not only receive a complete overhaul, but will also undergo some tuning. I talk in detail about everything I do with the motorcycle in the playlist “Ural Motorcycle Repair”

Relay-regulator PP-330, troubleshooting

After I determined that the generator was working. I started searching for the faulty relay regulator. To understand the principle of its operation, a little theory.

I will not describe in detail the operation of the relay regulator; I will describe the problem that I fixed. This problem was in two relay regulators, and the reason for it was that due to a long time of inactivity of the contacts, the carbon contacts of the R.N. coil. (in the diagram above) oxidized and did not pass current.

During normal operation of all equipment, the process is as follows. When you turn the key S1: “+” from the battery is supplied to the ignition coil and to the V3 contact of the relay regulator. In the relay, power from the VZ contact passes through the RN coil. and to contact “Ш” of the generator, a rotor winding is connected to it. Thus the armature is excited by the battery. When the engine speed increases, at contact "

Switching elements.

These include switches (high-low, turns, engine stop, etc.) as well as brake and neutral sensors and the ignition switch. You can easily “ring” them with a tester, finding out which contact group is not working.

As can be seen from all of the above, the wiring on Izh Planet is without any special secrets or complex elements, all its parts are easily diagnosed and repairs should not cause difficulties.

Now we advise you to watch the video, which shows in detail and clearly the assembly of the Izh Planet 5 circuit.

Checking the serviceability of the generator can be done on a motorcycle without disassembling the generator.

To carry out the work you will need a multimeter.

1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or side stand.

2. Disconnect the battery by removing its fuse.

3. Remove the right cover of the power unit.

4. 6mm

unscrew the nuts securing the five “upper” wires of the generator. In order not to confuse the wires during subsequent assembly, we mark them or tie them with thin wire so that we get a cable.

Why does my motorcycle battery drain quickly?

There are several main reasons why a battery drains quickly:

• Spent resource. If the battery has worked for more than a certain period of time, it can run down, as they say, to zero. This often happens when parked, when the battery is completely discharged in a short period of time.
• Leakage current. This may occur due to a faulty security alarm or a long-lasting alarm, which causes a leak and drains the battery.
• Damaged relay. This blocks charging from the generator while driving. This malfunction is detected by turning on the headlights and increasing engine speed. If the brightness of the headlight decreases, the device will obviously need to be replaced.
• Problem with the generator. To check its serviceability, you need to measure the battery voltage with the headlight on (low beam): if the relay-regulator and the generator are working, it will be 13.8 volts at 2000 rpm.
• Low temperatures. In winter, the battery discharges faster.

Any battery, even the highest quality, can, under certain circumstances, quickly discharge and lose its functions.

On average, a high-quality battery lasts up to 5 years. Long and frequent operation of the battery, very low and high temperatures significantly affect performance, reduce the battery capacity, which leads to its rapid discharge.

Disassembly procedure

Lada Granta Liftback Logbook Clutch cable It all depends on the degree of damage to its parts. So:

1. First of all, use a screwdriver or permanent marker to make a longitudinal mark on the body where the front and back covers separate. This will make it easier to assemble the generator in the future.
2. We press the three spring-loaded latches on the plastic protective casing of the rectifier unit and remove it.
3. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the voltage regulator and lift it up. Then remove the terminal of the appropriate wire from the regulator terminal and carefully remove the regulator completely. Electrically removable brushes are replaced along with the unit.
4. Using a size 8 spanner, unscrew the three bolts connecting the rectifier unit to the annular terminals of the stator windings. We carefully move the conclusions to the sides. Remember the location of the thrust and insulating washers on the removed bolts. Now, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the noise suppression capacitor to the housing. Disconnect the appropriate wires. We remove the block itself and the capacitor. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the contact bolts of the generator and take them out together with the spacer and insulating sleeve, and release the capacitor tip. It is worth noting that wear (or damage) of brushes is the most common cause of malfunction of the generator.
5. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the 4 bolts holding the rear and front covers of the electric generator together. We push them apart with a face screwdriver and remove the back cover along with the stator winding.
6. We remove the stator from the cover, having previously marked it with a mark of their relative position.
7. If the front bearing needs to be replaced, remove the generator pulley. To do this, use a 22mm socket wrench to unscrew the nut securing the pulley to the rotor shaft, carefully holding it with pliers or wedging the rotor with a screwdriver. Do not damage the impeller blades, which are made of thin metal.
8. Carefully remove the pulley, washers and spacer bushing.
9. We return the nut to the rotor shaft, screwing it flush with the end of the armature shaft. Using a rubber hammer, knock the rotor (armature) out of the cover.
10. If it is necessary to replace the front bearing, then to remove it, we clamp the front cover by the mounting ear in a vice, the jaws of which are covered with special pads made of soft metal or lined with fabric. Using a mandrel, press out the bearing.
11. To replace the rear bearing, secure the armature (rotor) in a vice with pads and remove the rear bearing using a universal puller. If you don't have a puller, use two slotted screwdrivers. 8 nuts are placed under them as supports for lever screwdrivers.
12. Removing the slip ring block. First of all, we remove the protective casing (cross) of the rotor contacts from the armature. Then we move these contacts to the sides and remove the slip rings from the rotor.

This completes the disassembly of the electric generator of the VAZ-2110 car. If any part breaks down, it must be replaced with a new one or, if possible, repaired. The generator is assembled in the reverse order.

GENERATOR 500 W. REPAIR

AN INDEPENDABLE GUY WITH A BAD CHARACTER

“Ural” 500-watt generator 14.3771 - the unit is excessively noisy and not very reliable. But oppositionists, having tasted the charm of powerful light and forgotten about discharged batteries, prefer to put up with its shortcomings. And not to change it, but to repair it. In general, this is not difficult to do. We have already written about how to find a fault in the electrical circuits of a generator (“Moto” No. 3, 1998). Now we will assemble and disassemble the unit, and at the same time we will eliminate these same malfunctions.

First, remove the rectifier cover by prying it off with a screwdriver. If this is done carefully, the latch antennae securing it will not break. But later we recommend screwing an M5 nut onto the protruding ends of two opposite tightening bolts - it’s more reliable. Then unscrew the two screws securing the relay-regulator and carefully remove it complete with the brush assembly. The relay-regulator YA212A11E itself fails extremely rarely, but if this happens, know that in addition to the “native” one, similar 36.3702 or 361.3702, used on the generators of the Vladimirets tractors and modern Volgas with the ZMZ 406 engine, will be suitable. The differences between them are in the level of charging voltage: 36.3702 - 14.2 V, and 361.3702 -14.4 V. Higher voltage is useful at low temperatures and frequent short trips with light. During normal use, the “stepson” will cause a slight reduction in battery life.

Checking the power of the generator on a motorcycle, without load.

This test does not require uninstalling the generator. With the motorcycle engine NOT running, disconnect the terminal going to the generator, the easiest way to find this terminal is by following the wire coming from the generator, disconnect the first terminal (3 thick yellow wires in insulation usually come from the generator and go through the entire electrical network of the motorcycle).

Set the tester to Volts – V measurement mode.

Start the engine, without choke, but the engine should only be warmed up a little for safe starting (this is clearly marked in the service book!).

Now, keep 5000 rpm on the tachometer (each motorcycle has its own value, but the principle is the same), now measure the voltage between the generator terminals.

For clarity, see the diagram:

In our example (Suzuki Hayabusa GSXR 1300 motorcycle), the voltage at 5000 rpm should be 65 Volts.

Why is there no charging for IZH Jupiter 5

RainbowRising

04/11/2010 23:04 at least tell me how you connected this ignition light. and what is the cost of the relay regulator? Yes, and in vain you stuck to this light bulb, if, as you say, the Akum is not dead, then the engine should start regardless of whether it is on or not. on a conventional relay, the lamp lights up when the motor is running on battery power and when the field winding is intact). I also connected it for myself. and if the engine does not start, then simply check the spark.

By the way, everything can successfully burn out if the wires fall off the Akum, so hook it very securely and don’t jump anywhere

There is also a problem with the magnetization of the DH curtain, maybe because of this (the motor won’t start, but the relay couldn’t burn out because of this), the solution is to install a sasa777

04/12/2010 08:51 The relay-regulator is a regular old model (all contacts are together and not scattered).
And the rest of the wiring is connected at the factory. A motorcycle sometimes travels 1 km. sasa777
04/12/2010 08:51 The most important thing is that when it stalls, the ignition lamp does not light up at all.
RainbowRising
04/12/2010 12:15 I’ll say again that if Akum is not dead (which is confirmed by the headlights and signal), then in general there is a deep ********** on this light bulb. it is needed to control the charging of the battery and check the integrity of the field winding, but not for the spark.

This article was written to help those motorists who decided to find and fix a malfunction in the battery charging system on IZH 12V motorcycles themselves.

Of the special instruments, you will need the simplest tester with a continuity function (tweeter) and resistance measurement. If you do not have this device, then you can use a light bulb with a battery to determine the contact or break in the circuit.

In this case, you need to install a well-charged battery on the motorcycle, or power the on-board network from another external power source with a constant voltage of 12 V. First of all, we check the presence of voltage with the ignition switch on at the positive terminal of the regulator relay. There should be +12v.

If there is no voltage, then we look for a break from the positive terminal of the battery through the ignition switch and to the + terminal on the relay regulator.

Next, we measure the voltage on the brushes. There should be +12V on one of the brushes. If not, we call the wiring from the relay to the generator brushes.

Next step. We take the brushes out of the holder and ring each of them from the terminal to the graphite. It happens that at the point of contact of the wire with the graphite body of the brush itself, the contact is lost.

Troubleshooting the generator

Three phase wires are disconnected from the stator and the winding (connected to each other according to a star circuit) is connected. That is, the windings should ring with each other and have approximately the same resistance. If some winding does not ring, this means that there is a break and the stator is not working properly.

Next, all three phases are called relative to the body (mass). If it rings, it means the windings are broken into the housing and the stator is not working properly.

Anchor

We ring the armature winding (on copper rings). If the rings ring among themselves - good, if not - there is a break, the armature is not working.

The next step is to wire the armature winding relative to the armature body.

If it doesn’t ring, it’s good; if it rings, the winding is broken into the housing and the armature is not working properly!

That's it with the generator.

Relay regulator

If all the wiring is in order, the brushes, stator and rotor are ringing and everything is working, all that remains is the relay regulator! In my experience, even if you don’t have much knowledge of radio electronics, you can at least remove the back cover of the relay regulator and wipe off all the dirt. Carefully look at all the contacts, fastening parts, wires, jumpers; sometimes the contact or soldering simply falls off due to vibration. The diode bridge is practically “eternal”. But the control thyristors sometimes fly out! They are also called simply - to check for breakdown on the housing and between the cathode and the control electrode!

They are also easy to change; a 10 mm nut is unscrewed from below and the wires are unsoldered from above.

That's basically it. And there is absolutely no need to change entire components at random; there can be a lot of reasons, even banal bad contact on the chips or oxidation of the wires in the connector

The editors of the magazine thank Sergei Sharikov for kindly providing materials for the article.

If you have something to share with readers and would like to publish your story or photo report about your travels on our website, please send the materials to: [email protected]

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“If there is no charging on the Izh Jupiter motorcycle. ”

The ignition and charging lamp does not light up, there is no power on the relay and there is no power from it to the lamp, what is the problem

Another problem with charging could be a break in one of the brushes. The lamp will not light up at all. Check the lamp itself and the brushes.

The ignition light does not go out + when the battery is disconnected during operation, the motorcycle stalls

Check the BPV block 14, most likely the reason lies there.

Replacing the piston group in a chainsaw or trimmer

Repairs of this level must always be balanced. How to correctly install rings on a two-stroke piston In installing rings on a piston. In such small engines operating at high speeds, replacing the first piston, which is burned out or jammed, does not give a long result and, if necessary, you need to change the entire piston group. Therefore, you need to consider whether to continue to use this saw or purchase a new saw.

If it is a professional model, then such repairs are worth carrying out, but if it is an old household model like a Husqvarna 40 and it has worked for more than ten or twelve years, it is not profitable to repair it. Because its repair will cost the same as purchasing a new saw, albeit not a Husqvarna, but a PARTNER P350XT CHROME, costing 165, will definitely be enough. Moreover, such saws are sold by Husqvarna, since PARTNER is its subsidiary.

But if you still decide to repair a chainsaw or trimmer, then you need original spare parts, which are not cheap. If the engine is used correctly, the first repair may not occur soon and only the piston ring or rings will have to be replaced, depending on the model. But if the saw jams, then it is necessary to change the entire piston group - the cylinder, piston and rings.

It should be noted that Husqvarna 136/141 chainsaws have a service life of approximately 500-600 operating hours, Husqvarna 340/350 - 1000-1200 operating hours, professional chainsaws have a service life of at least 2000-2500 operating hours, subject to strict adherence to the operating instructions. In fact, you cannot rely on these figures, since the actual resource may differ significantly, both up and down. But approximately we can say that semi-professional saws work 3-4 times longer than amateur ones, and professional ones up to 10 times or more.

Of course, nothing lasts forever, but it’s one thing if you change the piston group after many years of operation and it has worked its hours and has fully paid for itself, but another thing is that this saw was filled with, for example, only gasoline, without oil, and it jammed. This saw has to be repaired, since all other parts are normal.

Many companies deliberately inflate the cost of spare parts so that new models can be purchased. For chainsaws and trimmers, for example, from Stihl, spare parts are available in a larger range than for Husqvarna. Therefore, when choosing a specific model, find out how things are with spare parts. RVT

How to properly install rings on a two-stroke scooter piston

There is nothing complicated about installing rings on the piston of a two-stroke scooter, as well as a four-stroke scooter, and many people know this. But most scooter riders who have only recently acquired such equipment have no idea how to replace the piston on a scooter, how to correctly install the rings on the piston, where the arrow on the piston should point, and much more. In this lesson, I will tell you how to properly put the rings on the piston and assemble the piston in place. Since we have already talked about four-stroke engines before, here we will talk only about two-stroke engines. So, our piston is worn out and requires replacement. The rings and piston wear out first, and usually only those need to be replaced. If the piston is severely worn, it is necessary to bore the cylinder. It is also bored when the piston jams in the cylinder, forming deep scratches on the walls of the latter. There is nothing wrong with this, and if your new cylinder has been properly bored (which will only cost about 10), it will need a repair set of rings with a new piston. Such rings are marked 0.25. The second boring is 0.5, respectively, etc. to one. After purchasing a piston, it needs to be assembled. In the kit, as a rule, you will find the piston itself, two compression rings, a third thin corrugated ring (more on its purpose later), a piston pin and two piston pin retaining rings

How to check the relay?

In general it was like this. I was getting ready to start my trike, which had been sitting outside all winter. After charging the battery, cleaning the contacts and replacing some substance in the gas tank with gasoline, I finally revived it. And since the ignition key was lost and the lock itself was completely broken, I could not turn off the ignition. This means the engine is working, but I don’t have the brains to take off the candle holder to turn it off (there is no engine stop). So, instead of disconnecting the positive wire going to the coil, I short it to ground. The engine died down and, in general, all signs of life along with it. I looked at the fuses, one was burned out, I replaced it, everything was still dead. To clarify, this means that the charging control lamp does not light up. Then I took a piece of wire and connected the plus directly to the coil. The lamp does not light, mind you. So I start it and the light comes on. I have a separate breaker for the generator, so I turn on the generator, the lamp starts blinking. I turn off the engine, the lamp goes out. So the main question! Which of the two relays burned out? The wiring works according to the scheme described in https://custom26.ucoz.ru/forum/5-127-1

nait9, the control light is in your hands. and check for the presence of a plus where it should be. With a multimeter in low-resistance circuits, there is little that can be adequately checked other than the integrity of the wires.

IMHO the relay-regulator burned out. When my control lamp relay burned out after a short circuit, the control lamp was constantly shining, despite the fact that the RR was regularly charging. If you buy a new RR, look for one with diagnostic LEDs. RRs are the size of a matchbox.

All is good! The topic can be closed. I decided to do as Vetal41rus advised. I checked the power supply to the lock using a test lamp. Not finding it there, I took a piece of wire and connected it directly from the plus of the generator to the lock. The lamp works, the engine starts, the gene snorts. Looks like the wire has burnt out. Remove the tank. I just filmed it again. Eh.

Generator G-424

To understand the principle of operation of the generator and relay regulator, a little theory.

Electric generator G-424 is a three-phase machine, with electromagnetic excitation. Generates alternating current. The VGB-2A rectifier converts current into direct current. For normal operation of an electric machine, a relay-regulator PP-330 is required. The job is to regulate the voltage of the motorcycle's on-board network so that it does not exceed 14 volts.

The G-424 generator is not able to work with a discharged battery. To start the engine and increase to 2400 rpm, the motorcycle runs on a battery. Only after this threshold is exceeded does the electric generator operate in self-excitation mode.

Generator G-424 is PROHIBITED to be turned on without load!

Generator circuit G-424: 1 - cover; 2 — oil seal; 3 - rotor; 4 - stator winding; 5 - terminal block; 6 — back cover; 7 — shield assembly; 8 - rectifier block; 9 - fan; 10 — protective casing; 11 - bearing.

Troubleshooting the generator

The method for determining the malfunction was as follows (I tried several methods, since replacing the relay regulator did not help):

Indirect determination of generator performance

This method does not allow you to accurately determine the malfunction of the generator, but it can still be used to determine whether the generator is “dead,” or there is still hope and the cause of the malfunction lies elsewhere.

Disconnect the wire from terminal “Ш” on the generator. And we apply + from the battery to this terminal, bring the wrench to the generator body, it should be magnetic, not much, but it is noticeable. If it is magnetic, then the rotor winding is working properly. Turn it off.

We connect a 12 volt lamp to the “+” terminal on the generator, and the other end of the lamp to ground. And we connect “+” from the battery to the “Ш” terminal. And we turn the engine with the kickstarter, the light should light up. If this happens, then the generator is working.

In my case, the light was on, I changed the relay-regulator, but the battery still did not charge, and when the engine was running, the red battery charge control light did not go out.

Cleaning and testing the generator G 424

1. I removed the generator, unscrewed the back cover, pulled out the brushes - the wear was within normal limits, they were checked with a multimeter.
2. Using the probes through the windows for the brushes with a multimeter, the armature rang - “it rang”, there is no short circuit to the generator housing.
3. I unscrewed the rectifier and it “ringed” like diodes, i.e. In one direction the arrow should deviate, I change the polarity, the arrow does not deviate. Those. the diodes are not “broken”, as they should be.
4. I rang the stator windings - everything is normal, there is no short circuit to the housing.

Everything is in perfect order, the generator should be in good working order, so I didn’t completely disassemble it. But there is no charge. Therefore, I began to understand the operation of the relay regulator and look for the reason for it.

Repair of the Ural Wolf or Voyage motorcycle generator.

For many years, domestic boxer cars drove with low lighting and finally, later models of boxers, such as the Wolf, Voyage, and some modifications of the Solo, began to be equipped with a much more powerful generator 14.3771, which provides 500 watts, 14 volts and as much as 35 A of current, instead a measly 10 - 15 A on previous models. This allows our boxers to finally add one or two additional headlights, music, heated steering wheel grips, heated seats and many other pleasures of life. But as always happens in production, in our native country they make it for some reason worse than a similar generator from (the latest models of motorcycles are sometimes equipped with it), but many are reassured that at least the price of ours is much lower. The price is yes, but the quality, to put it mildly, is not very good, and there were cases when the front cover burst due to vibration. But if mechanical breakdowns are a simple matter for many, and can be treated simply by a familiar argon welder, then faults in the electrical part remain a dark forest for many.

Repair costs can be miniscule and rarely exceed a third of the cost of the generator itself, and this is an undeniable advantage of domestic products. In addition, some parts are suitable from generators of domestic cars (therefore, the article will be useful for motorists), and as you know, prices for auto parts are always lower than for the same motorcycle parts.

The basic rule in any repair is disassembly and the ability to determine the condition of the generator parts. The main parts of the generator are: a stator, a rotor rotating on two bearings, a voltage regulator (a common part along with brushes), an AC rectifier unit with two diode bridges, a housing and two covers.

An oil seal is installed in the front cover, and a rubber sealing ring is installed on the rotor shaft. If these seals are damaged or worn out, then engine oil will get into the brush assembly, and into the windings too, and this is bad (the oil can pass current, and hot oil can corrode the varnish insulation).

Ural Wolf motorcycle generator disassembled

Disassembling the generator. We begin disassembling the generator from the back cover of the rectifier and it is necessary to take into account that the part is fragile, which means we work carefully. Next, we remove the voltage regulator, and the diode bridge can be left in place, since it does not interfere with further disassembly. Then we unscrew the nuts of the studs that tighten the front cover with the generator housing (many call the housing with the winding the middle cover).

Having removed the studs, we press the front cover first (from the bearing), since the bearing tension in it is greater than in the housing. A small claw puller will help make the operation easier. I advise you to hook the puller legs to the eyes with which the generator is attached to the motor, and rest the puller shaft (with the ball) strictly in the center of the shaft so as not to damage the threads.

In order not to tear out the terminals of the windings of the three stator phases, which are soldered to the terminals of the rectifier unit, you need to disassemble carefully. Namely: when the cover moves out of place, you need to prevent it from dragging the stator along with it (hold it with your hand in its place - in the groove of the housing).

The rear bearing can be dislodged by lightly hitting the back of the rotor with a plastic or wooden mallet. If the bearings are worn out (increased play and you can hear the balls rolling or jamming), then we press them again using a small puller. Read about how to properly press new bearings in this article.

Worn bearings must be replaced, since the rotation of the generator rotor on worn bearings sharply increases the load on the generator housing and the front cover, and as I already said, it is not durable. With large play in the bearings, the rotor can tear apart the stator and its own windings when rotating. You can check the condition of the bearings even before disassembling the generator, with the engine running.

After starting the motorcycle engine, take an ordinary wooden stick (ideally a stethoscope), one end of which is applied to your ear, and the other end to the generator housing in the bearing area. When listening at different engine speeds, make sure that you do not hear clicking, clicking, squealing or other percussive sounds. Check the second bearing in the same way.

Electrical faults of the generator. After starting the engine, the generator charge indicator lamp on the instrument panel shines in full force, and even at maximum speed. There is no doubt: the generator, and most likely one or more of its elements, has failed. Naturally, you need to look for the burnt element and fix the problem. Rarely, a control lamp or its electrical circuit (wires) fails, and the first thing we do is determine the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter.

Then, after starting the engine on the motorcycle, we again measure the voltage at the battery terminals, and now it should be noticeably higher, for example, at maximum speed, ideally 14.5 volts, and at minimum 13.4 - 13.8 volts. If the voltage on the battery remains unchanged when the engine is running, the power plant needs repair.

First of all, we disconnect the wires from the battery, the generator itself, and find a regular 12-volt light bulb and a couple of watts, with a socket and wires, and a tester is advisable. The first check is to determine the serviceability of the relay regulator and it can be checked with an ordinary light bulb.

We remove the regulator from the generator and first of all we check the integrity of the wires going from the contacts of the regulator to the brushes, we ring the wires using a tester turned on at Ohms or using a light bulb. Next, we connect the regulator to the battery and light bulb, according to the diagram on the left.

If, when connected according to the diagram, the light bulb shines at full intensity - the regulator is working, the light shines dimly or does not light at all - we buy a new regulator. Naturally, this check must be done using a fully charged battery, because if the battery is low, the light bulb will still shine dimly.

It is more convenient to carry out the following diagnostics on a removed and disassembled generator, placed on a clean table. We check the serviceability of the rotor by connecting the ohmmeter probes to the slip rings of the rotor: the device should show a resistance of serviceable windings equal to 2.3 - 2.6 Ohms. If the resistance is greater, then the rings have an oxide film and this is usually visible to the naked eye.

Polish the rings using 1500 - 2000 grit sandpaper, and then degrease the rings with anti-silicone or at least pure gasoline. An open rotor circuit is determined by a tester or a test light; if the windings are broken, the light bulb connected to the rotor rings will not light up naturally, and the digital tester, which is turned on to measure resistance and initially shows one, will remain at one when the windings are broken.

It is convenient to use the inclusion of the tester in the continuity (beeper) function; if the windings are broken, it will not squeak, and if the windings are intact, then it will beep, although it is better, of course, to check in ohmmeter mode, this will accurately show whether the stator windings have the same resistance or not.

In the same way, a short circuit of the winding to the rotor body is checked. We turn on the light bulb one by one (successively turn on the lamp from the battery) between the ring and the metal rotor body, and if the lamp lights up, then the insulation of the windings has been broken and the winding has shorted to the rotor body. You can do everything much easier with a tester by turning on an ohmmeter or a continuity test function - a buzzer (but it’s still better to use an ohmmeter than a continuity tester, since it works with a fairly high resistance) - connect one probe to one of the contact rings, and the second probe to the metal case rotor.

If the insulation of the rotor windings is in good condition, the tester should not beep. In the same way, we check the serviceability of the stator windings: we first connect the tester or probes of the tester one by one to the terminals of the windings and check their integrity (all three in turn). Here the lamp should light (if the winding is working properly), and the tester should show the resistance of the working winding.

Then we alternately connect the control panel or tester probes to the terminals of the windings and the generator housing - in this case, the lamp should not light and the tester should not squeak (if the windings are properly insulated). You can read about choosing a tester in this article.

Now you need to disconnect the stator terminals from the rectifier unit and connect an ohmmeter between them. The resistance readings of all three windings should be the same. If it is different, then an interturn short circuit has appeared between some turns of the winding, and it is quite possible to eliminate it. To do this, immerse the faulty rotor or stator in boiling drying oil or hot varnish for about 2-3 minutes, and then remove the part and let it dry well (about a day). After drying, repeat the test using the method described above, and I hope the problem will not happen again.

The reason for the failure of charging from the generator may also be the failure of the power rectifier. To check, we connect the plus of the battery through a light bulb to the positive terminal of the rectifier diode bridge, and connect the minus of the battery to the generator housing, and connect the power terminal of the voltage regulator to the block.

If the lamp is on, then the rectifier is faulty. It is better to replace the faulty one entirely, since broken diodes are very difficult to remove from the housing (horseshoe), since they are pressed in there, and it is even more difficult to mount a new diode. But you won’t have to change the entire rectifier if the bridge of the generator excitation system is faulty, since the burnt diodes of this bridge can be easily soldered to new ones.

It is difficult to check a diode: it must pass current only in one direction (many modern testers have a function for checking diodes - the same beeper). If the diode passes current in both directions (broken) or does not pass current at all (burnt out), then solder it to any diode rated for 5 - 10 A and 30 - 50 volts.

But you can check the diode in ohmmeter mode, and in one direction it will show a very high resistance (almost no current passes), and in the other direction a small resistance (the values ​​depend on the brand of the diode). When a diode breaks down, naturally a unit will be visible on the tester screen (when measuring in both directions), and not the value of some resistance.

The state of the generator self-excitation bridge diodes can also be seen when the motorcycle engine is running. It is determined by the glow of the charging control lamp. If the lamp goes out immediately after starting the engine, then the excitation of the generator is in perfect order, and if it glows at a third of the incandescence, then one of the diodes in the circuit has burned out, but if the lamp glows at half incandescence, two diodes have failed at once.

With any of these glows, trips should be avoided, since each burnt-out diode increases the number of engine crankshaft revolutions at which the generator begins to release energy (be excited) from its own generated current (and not from the battery).

When traveling, especially in city traffic jams, the crankshaft speed is almost always reduced almost to idle, and the battery will run out in just a couple of days of riding, and, as always, at the most inopportune and unexpected moment. Therefore, it is better to immediately resolder a burnt or broken part.

Some generator malfunctions, in addition to bearings, can be determined by ear, namely: an interturn short circuit or a breakdown on the stator winding housing. With these malfunctions, the generator howls unpleasantly like a wolf at the moon. With such malfunctions, a significant loss of current occurs, and again, when driving at low speeds, especially with the headlights on, the entire load from consumers will fall on the battery.

The howling usually intensifies when additional consumers (electrical appliances) are connected, and if you disconnect the power cord of the voltage regulator, the sound disappears. Next, you can do the following test: turn off the engine and remove the wire from terminal D+ of the generator, and then start the engine again and listen to the generator again.

If the howling has stopped, then the problem is in the windings (an interturn short circuit or a breakdown on the housing), but if the howling has not stopped, then the slip rings are howling - if they are faulty, they howl constantly, both when there is a load on the generator and when there is not.

Generator spare parts . The meager selection of spare parts for motorcycles is no secret, especially in small, provincial towns. And spare parts for products that factories started making recently may not be found at all. And I have never seen spare parts for this generator in small towns, and even if something appears on sale somewhere, dealers charge quite a lot of money for a small part. But you can buy some things at a nearby auto store, and at half the price than at a motorcycle boutique.

So what can you borrow from a car? From generators numbered 26.3771 for cars such as the Volga and Oka, you can use a rectifier unit BVP 86-60 (horseshoe) - it is inexpensive, in the range of 8 - 10 dollars and a voltage regulator assembly with brushes - the price is about 5 - 7 dollars.

The most durable and time-tested devices are marked Y 212A 11E or 361.3702 (see photo on the left) - they stably keep the on-board voltage within the prescribed limits of 13.4 - 14.5 volts. If you decide to change bearings that have started to make noise, they will also fit from the generator of the cars mentioned above.

The set costs only about 10 dollars, and I recommend Vologda VBF or Tomsk “Roltom” bearings, and when purchasing, follow the markings: 180503K1S9 - front and 180502K1S9 - rear. And if you want to forget about replacing bearings for a long time, then look for SKF products. The rear nylon cover also comes from the same generator and it costs a penny.

And finally, some tips for repairs. The wire that has come off the brush can be reattached by drilling a hole at the end of the brush, and then inserting a wire coated with glue into it. We mix the glue with graphite dust. If the height of the brushes has become less than 7 mm, and there are no original ones to replace them, then they can be borrowed from another generator, and if they come across larger ones, then sharpening them is not a problem.

Brushes come in different hardnesses, and brushes that are too hard will quickly wear out the slip rings, and they can also creak. Therefore, it is advisable to install softer brushes, ones that do not scratch the paper at an angle, but write on it like a pencil. It happens that the slip rings become a little loose on the shaft, and this can be fixed with epoxy glue.

If there are burrs or grooves on the rings (no more than 1 mm deep), then they can wear out the new brushes in a matter of kilometers. To prevent this from happening, turn the rings on a lathe and then polish them to a mirror finish.

By the way, anyone who wants to install on their boxer generator a generator that has no brushes at all, which is cheaper and which is more powerful than a 500-watt generator by as much as 200 watts (or even by as much as 500 watts), I advise you to read how to do this in this article. I've been using this generator for eight years now and am very pleased with it.

Having identified and eliminated all faults and defects, reassemble the generator in the reverse order. For easier assembly, I advise you to heat the bearing seats (in the covers) a little.

I advise you to read and see more about repairing generators here.

After assembling the generator and installing it on the motorcycle, do not forget to twist it a little to achieve the least noise from the drive gears, and then finally tighten the fastening nuts; Have a bright journey everyone!

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Checking the motorcycle's charging.

1. We take a tester and set it to measure constant voltage (if there is a gradation of measurements, set it to 20 V). We measure the battery with the motorcycle not running. A fully charged battery is 12.8 - 12.9 volts (if less, it is advisable to charge the battery so that further measurements are correct, and also check the battery - you can read how to do this in the article: How to check the battery.)
2. If the battery is serviceable and infected, we proceed to check the charging of the motorcycle. We measure the voltage on the battery with a tester, with the motorcycle running (idling, without consumers turned on: lights, heated handles, etc.), the voltage should be 13-15 volts. If the motorcycle charging test does not meet the criteria, move on.
3. We turn on only “natural consumers” (lights), the voltage should be at least 12.8 volts (ideally, about 13.5 volts). If less, something is wrong.
4. We turn on all consumers (additional equipment), if the voltage drops below 12.8 volts, try raising the idle speed to 1000 - 1100, the voltage should be at least 12.8 volts. If it is smaller, the generator does not pull all consumers (additional equipment) and may burn out.
5. We give the gas 3000 - 4000 revolutions, the voltage should rise to 13 - 15 volts with all consumers turned on. On some motorcycles, the voltage rises to a maximum at 3500 -4000 rpm, and at higher rpm it drops, but not more than 13 volts (this is due to increased load at high rpm: the injectors begin to consume more power (they are open almost all the time), this is normal ). If less, something is wrong.

Why won't the battery charge?

Let's say you find out that the generator is working, but the car battery is not charging. Most often, this occurs due to irreversible physical and chemical reactions inside the battery case, which arise as a result of improper operation, mechanical damage, or age-related depletion of the resource. Among such malfunctions are:

• plate sulfation;
• internal short circuit of one of the sections;
• critical decrease in electrolyte density. This occurs not only during natural evaporation of the distillate during active use of the battery, but also due to unqualified maintenance. Trying to add distilled water can reduce the density of the electrolyte so much that the battery will no longer be charged from the generator or from a conventional charger. You can measure the density of the electrolytic liquid with a hydrometer.

If your car's battery does not charge from the alternator, but takes charge from an external power source, carefully inspect the inside of the battery terminals. A dense layer of oxides increases resistance, which is why the car battery is constantly undercharged.

Sulfation of plates

The plates are coated with a layer of lead sulfate, which reduces the capacity and increases the internal resistance of the battery. Accelerated sulfation occurs when the battery is stored in a discharged state for a long time. During normal operation, the process of plate sulfation is accelerated by increased density, low level and high temperature of the electrolyte. Heating and boiling of the electrolytic liquid occurs when the battery is charged with a high current from the charger, as well as when operating a car with a faulty generator (overcharging).

The critical level of sulfation cannot be reversed - the battery will have to be replaced. In the early stages, the process can be stopped by several charge-discharge cycles with control of the electrolyte density.

The extent of the problem can be assessed by visual inspection of the plates, as well as by the density and transparency of the electrolytic liquid. A battery with deep surface sulfation begins to boil very quickly when an external power source is connected, but does not take a charge. At the same time, the density of the electrolyte increases slightly, which is why the battery has difficulty or does not start the engine at all, even after charging with an external device.

Internal short circuit

A car battery consists of 6 compartments, inside of which there is a package of multi-polar lead plates. They are immersed in electrolytic liquid and should not come into contact with each other. A short circuit occurs when the battery case is deformed or when the active mass falls off. Large particles can get stuck between the plates, causing an internal short. Signs of a closed section:

• the battery loses charge. Even after being fully charged, the battery cannot start the engine;

To avoid buying a new battery by mistake, first check the current leakage level on your car. Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is not at all the melting of the active mass and short circuit of the plates.

• stepwise reduction in voltage of a charged battery. In a 12-volt system, the battery is divided into 6 sections connected in series. The sum of the voltages of each section (2.15 V) is the total charge of a fully charged battery - 12.7 V. If the voltage at the battery terminals after charging does not increase more than 10.1-11.2 V, one of the sections has an internal short circuit;
• no response to charging. When charging a serviced battery, the electrolyte begins to boil over time, indirectly indicating a full charge. If you do not hear the characteristic boiling sound from one of the service holes, most likely the can has an internal short circuit;
• convexity of the body. Often the problem section can be identified by the deformation zone of the housing.

Generator stator 281.3701 for IZH motorcycles

The stator is installed on the right half of the engine crankcase and secured with three bolts. The frame is made of special sheet steel. It has 18 tooth-shaped places for winding phase windings. The phase winding is made of one solid wire with a diameter of 0.9 mm and is wound on six teeth. Each tooth has 20 turns of copper wire wound around it. There are six teeth in total on the winding, so 120 turns are wound. There are three such windings. The connection of the windings is made with a star. The terminals of the phase windings are connected to the terminals of the comb.

The generator stator is covered with an aluminum alloy cover. There are special places on the cover and threaded holes where the carbon brush holder is installed. A breaker with a capacitor to produce a spark. Special comb for connecting wires.

Replacing a relay regulator on a motorcycle

Sooner or later, almost all owners of Ural or Dnepr motorcycles are faced with a battery charge problem.
The standard relay-regulator type PP 330 eventually stops working correctly and needs to be cleaned or adjusted. Not every motorbike owner can competently perform these operations. Replacing with a new one is an option, but the cost of a new PP 330 is often quite high. Getting out of the situation, however, is quite simple. After all, you can install in the regular place of the PP 330 an electronic voltage regulator of type 121.3702 for 12V from a VAZ car, which is sold in any auto store, and its cost is several times lower than the PP 330. But for this you will have to work quite a bit with the wires.

The electronic voltage regulator is installed in the standard place of the PP 330 with virtually no modifications. During the replacement process, it is necessary to additionally drill one hole in the mounting area of ​​the regulator relay. You also need to replace the screw terminals on the wires that go to the PP with female connectors.

Selection of piston to cylinder

Device Features

Completing and assembling a piston with a connecting rod for a VAZ engine

The piston is made of aluminum alloy and coated with a layer of tin to improve run-in. The piston skirt is oval in cross section and conical in height. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the piston diameter only in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin and at a distance of 52.4 mm from the piston bottom.

The hole for the piston pin is shifted from the axis of symmetry by 2 mm to the right side of the engine. Therefore, for proper installation of the piston into the cylinder, there is a “P” mark near the hole for the piston pin, which should be facing towards the front of the engine.

Since 1986, repair size pistons for all engine models have been manufactured with an outer diameter increased by 0.4 and 0.8 mm. Until 1986, pistons of the following repair sizes were produced: for engines 2101 and 2103 - with an increase of 0.2; 0.4 and 0.6 mm; for 2105 and 21011 - with an increase of 0.4 and 0.7 mm.

Piston rings are made of cast iron. The outer surface of the upper compression ring is chrome plated and has a barrel shape. The lower compression ring is of the scraper type (with a groove along the outer surface), phosphated. The oil scraper ring has slots for oil removed from the cylinder and an internal coil spring (expander).

The piston pin is steel, tubular in cross-section, pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod and rotates freely in the piston bosses.

The connecting rod is steel, forged, with a split lower head in which the connecting rod bearing shells are installed. The connecting rod is processed together with the cover, so during assembly the numbers on the connecting rod and the cover must be the same.

The calculated gap between the piston and cylinder (for new parts) is 0.05-0.07 mm. It is determined by measuring the cylinders and pistons and is ensured by installing pistons of the same class as the cylinders. The maximum permissible gap (if parts are worn) is 0.15 mm. Note. The piston diameter is measured in a plane perpendicular to the piston pin, at a distance of 52.4 mm from the piston crown. According to the outer diameter, the pistons are divided into five classes (A, B, C, D, E) every 0.01 mm, and according to the diameter of the piston pin hole - into three categories every 0.004 mm. The piston class (letter) and piston pin hole category (number) are stamped on the piston bottom.

If a used engine has a gap exceeding 0.15 mm, then it is necessary to re-select the pistons to the cylinders so that the gap is as close as possible to the calculated one.

Spare parts include pistons of classes A, C, E. These classes are sufficient to select a piston for any cylinder during engine repair, since pistons and cylinders are divided into classes with a slight overlap of sizes.

Assembly. Before assembly, fit the pin to the piston and connecting rod. For new parts, the class of pin holes in the connecting rod and piston must be identical to the class of the pin. For used parts, for proper mating it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the hole of the piston or connecting rod by simply pressing the thumb and does not fall out of it. Replace the finger that falls out with another one of the next category. If a third category pin was inserted into the piston, replace the piston pin and connecting rod.

Assembly of the connecting rod and piston group is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly. After installing the piston pin, lubricate it with engine oil through the holes in the piston bosses. Install the piston rings in the following order. Lubricate the piston grooves and piston rings with engine oil. Orient the piston rings so that the upper compression ring lock is at an angle of 45° to the piston pin axis, the lower compression ring lock is at an angle of approximately 180° to the upper compression ring lock axis, and the oil scraper ring lock is at an angle of approximately 90° to the axis locking the upper compression ring. Install the lower compression ring with the groove facing down. If the ring is marked “TOP” or “TOP”, then install the ring with the mark facing up (towards the piston bottom). Before installing the oil scraper ring, check that the joint of the spring expander is located on the side opposite to the ring lock.

GENERATOR 700 W | OPPOZIT.RU | motorcycles Ural, Dnepr, BMW

The resistance between the windings must be the same. The engine is started and the rotor rotates in the stator winding, voltage is supplied to the excitation winding through the PP and the generator is excited.

As practice has shown, pieces of nails driven into holes cope with the task. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. In particular, automatic ignition timing was introduced, since the motorcycle received a new power unit, and the old manual control of the timing advance did not meet the technical requirements.

The voltmeter reading is noted and, by bending the shank in the voltage relay, the spring tension is increased, and with it the generator voltage by 0.4 V. An additional rectifier arm is also introduced into the electrical circuit. During this period, you can slightly increase the generator voltage.

On a URAL car there is a voltage regulator. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. Adjust the position of the front wedge stops 9 on the closed lid 6 of the container 10 after installing the batteries 1 and the upper clamps into the container. If they come out of the special sockets, the phase leads may break off during generator operation.

If the engine continues to run, then the generator is working. The work consists of connecting a generator or battery to the mains at a certain moment. Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. After installing the batteries on the car, adjust the position of the front wedge stops 9, for which loosen the tightening of the bolts 8 securing the stops 9 to the cover 6, move the stops 9 along the elongated holes of the cover 6 away from you until they stop and tighten the bolts 8.

We recommend reading:

Contact Information.
Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. Remove the cover from the shaft. But you need to follow some rules. The generator covers undergo minor modifications. Replace brushes protruding from the brush holder channel by less than 5 mm. Features of the development of electrical equipment of Ural motorcycles The six-volt circuit over the years ceased to meet technical regulations, and on subsequent models, manufacturers installed central wiring designed to operate 12V equipment: Ti-volt battery; Let's consider their structure and interaction.

Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. Period of years The wiring of the Ural motorcycle has also proven itself quite well - if at first the designers had concerns about loss of contact due to possible corrosion of the metal frame, then operation has shown the reliability of the single-wire electrical circuit. Scooters and mopeds Ural motorcycle wiring diagram Ural motorcycles have a unipolar battery terminal. If after several trips it turns out that the battery is not charging enough, you can further increase the voltage of the generator, but not higher than 15 V. Ural motorcycle wiring diagram

Procedure for checking the serviceability of the alternator on your motorcycle.

All information was taken from the motorcycle service book and is absolutely not made up. To check the serviceability of the generator on a motorcycle, you will need a multi-meter (tester); you can purchase it at any radio-technical store or electronics store.

In general, all work on electronics and electrical work (for example, checking the serviceability of the same regulator relay on a motorcycle can only be done using a multi-meter) requires a multimeter.

This test does not require removing the alternator from the motorcycle. With the engine NOT running (once again, DO NOT start the motorcycle during this test!).

Disconnect the terminal going to the generator, the easiest way to find this terminal is by following the wire coming from the generator, the first terminal and disconnect (3 thick yellow wires in insulation usually come from the generator and go through the entire electrical network of the motorcycle).

Set the tester to resistance measurement mode – .

Now, according to the diagram below, measure the resistance between each winding, and then between the winding and the ground (black wire to the frame, red we measure the resistance in the terminal).

On each motorcycle, the generator has the same value between the windings, but these values ​​may differ from one motorcycle model to another; in order to find out what the resistance value is on your motorcycle model, look in the service book of your motorcycle.

In our example (Suzuki Hayabusa GSXR 1300), the resistance should be 0.2-0.2 (Ohm).

On the other hand, if you do not have a service book for your motorcycle model and the resistance value cannot be determined, then remember the following:

– if the value on one winding differs from the other two, it must be replaced.

– if the resistance value is different on all windings, the generator on the motorcycle is clearly not working properly

– also be sure to visually assess the condition of each generator winding (you will need to remove the generator cover, and then change the gasket under the generator cover, so if there is resistance, everything is in order - do not remove the cover!).

The battery on the Ural motorcycle does not charge

After the engine was restored to working order, the motorcycle started, but the battery did not charge. In connection with this, the generator and relay regulator were completely checked. In the end, the reason was in the relay regulator. Moreover, I changed the relay-regulator to a new one. Or rather new in the sense that it had not been used before, but its year of manufacture was old, which was the reason it did not work. And now in more detail and in order about the process of checking the generator and relay regulator.

Factors influencing the price of the service - repair of a motorcycle generator in Nizhny Novgorod

It is common knowledge that the cost of car repairs depends on several aspects. Among them are the following:

• cost of spare parts (original, China, alternative manufacturers);
• personnel qualifications;
• level of equipment of the service station (availability of painting booths, lifts, special tools and equipment, etc.).

For example, the price of the service - repair of a motorcycle generator in Nizhny Novgorod will also depend on factors such as the age, make and model of the car. We are confident that car services will compete for your order and offer the best conditions. The centers have a system of discounts for regular customers.

Signs of a generator malfunction

Modern passenger cars are literally crammed with electronics; there are several dozen sensors alone, and over time the situation only gets worse. Automakers try to increase the power of the generator according to the needs of the on-board network, but this is not always possible, and therefore, if problems arise with the battery, it cannot be ruled out that it is simply not charged when the engine is running.

How can you understand that the generator does not charge the battery, or that it is not able to cover the loss of battery charge when starting the engine?

There are several signs indicating that the culprit of undercharging is the generator unit:

• light indication in the form of a lit battery symbol;
• insufficiently bright headlights;
• extraneous noise heard from the generator;
• interruptions in battery operation.

The combination of any two of these signs should alert you.

Note that all malfunctions associated with the operation of the unit responsible for powering the vehicle are divided into mechanical and electrical. The first include loosening of fasteners, wear of bearings and brushes, breakage of pressure springs, loosening of the drive belt tension, etc. There are also many electrical reasons - problems with wiring (breaks, short circuits), windings, burnout of the diode bridge, breakdowns, etc. .

An extreme case is a complete failure of the generator, which will simply immobilize your car. But this is not always a death sentence. In many cases the problem is fixable, although in some cases it will cost money, time and effort.

Replacing a generator is generally required only when the breakdown is quite serious, and the cost of repair, if possible, is not much cheaper than a new device.

What to do if the relay regulator is broken

Sometimes a situation occurs when the relay regulator becomes faulty. In this case, there is no need to panic. It is very important to take certain measures to prevent all motorcycle systems from failing.

First, you urgently need to disconnect this device from the generator and from the battery so that they do not fail. The voltage will be supplied alternately.

The main thing is to pay attention to ensure that the generator does not fail. In this case, the voltage will be supplied from the battery, where there is a possibility that it will begin to boil away and increase in size. The result will be an explosive situation.

The motorcycle regulator relay diagram shows its structure. Thanks to this, you can figure out how to repair it and connect it.

How does a relay regulator work for a bike?

Normally, the voltage supplied to the on-board circuit of any motorcycle device should not exceed twelve volts. However, the generator is capable of producing a higher voltage level. Typically it ranges from eight to forty-five volts. If such voltage is regularly applied, all motorcycle electronics may fail. The motorcycle will turn into a pile of metal. It is to protect against power outages that a motorcycle relay regulator is installed on motorcycle equipment.

Relay regulators are installed on all imported motorcycle vehicles. The role of the regulator relay is colossal. Thanks to it, you can avoid expensive motorcycle repairs. In addition, all systems are guaranteed to work like a well-oiled mechanism and will not fail for a long time due to failures in the voltage supply to the on-board networks of the motorcycle.

Motorcycle Voltage Regulator Relay Diagram