rang, broke, and unscrewed

Photo report: Repair (repressing) of the crankshaft of the Izh-Planet motorcycle - SCOOTERS AND MOTORCYCLES

Due to a gross design miscalculation, the crankshaft of the engine of the Izh-Planet (SZD) motorcycle, having traveled some measly 5,000 km, successfully “grunted” (knocked). Even Chinese plasticine goes through many times more, but here is “Planet”. How so?

Of course, to make the picture clearer, it’s worth making a little reservation: The crankshaft, the repair of which will be discussed in this article, is slightly different in design from the original “Planet” one, since it is from a SZD (motorized sidecar) engine. But in essence, there is practically no difference between these shafts and the engines.

The reason for the rapid failure of the crankshaft was that the bearing of the lower head of the connecting rod, due to a gross design flaw, was not at all lubricated with oil during operation.

In the cheeks of the crankshaft, recesses were made for the lower head of the connecting rod (it is not clear why), so when the lower head of the connecting rod fell into place, the standard oil channels of the lower head of the connecting rod were blocked by the walls of the recess, which led to “oil starvation” of the bearing.

Here, that same depression in the cheek, of unknown purpose.

But the oil channel (ordinary chamfer) on the “native” connecting rod, the channel must be said: it’s made to “fuck off”, and it’s not a channel in essence, but just another Soviet bullshit (even the Chinese don’t allow themselves to do this). Through such a channel, lubricant cannot even theoretically flow to the bearing.

Now look, if you put in a new connecting rod with developed channels for lubrication, then all the same, the channels are blocked by the walls of the recess.

Our task for today: Install a new connecting rod, instead of the old one, into the crankshaft, first taking care of its normal lubrication. And then, the whole thing must be carefully aligned using special measuring tools.

First, the crankshaft must be disassembled.

We are looking for a sheet of metal of suitable thickness (7-8 mm) and using a grinder we cut out a wedge approximately in the middle.

Place the crankshaft on the sheet.

We lay the sheet on some powerful beams so that the crankshaft journal hangs freely in the air, take a suitable mandrel, place it on the finger and use a heavy sledgehammer to knock the finger out of the cheek. After removing the finger from one cheek, take the second cheek, place it on a sheet and knock out the finger in the same way.

Before removing your finger, remember the main rule: Never try to knock out a worn finger all the way through the other cheek! During engine operation, the working surface of the bearing pin of the lower connecting rod head takes on an elliptical shape, so if you decide to knock out the pin with a worn surface through the cheek, the result will be the same - you will violate the geometry of the hole for the pin in the cheek. Because of this, the new finger will no longer stay in such a hole!

Previously, a new connecting rod was purchased from the online store (factory-made, not 100% Chinese).

We are looking for a cutting disc for the grinder that is as thin and worn in diameter as possible, prepare a container with water in advance, install the disk on the grinder and begin to refine our connecting rod.

We cut a small groove at the bottom of the connecting rod, through which the bearing will be lubricated; you need to saw slowly, a little at a time, while constantly lowering the part into the water; under no circumstances should the bearing be overheated, otherwise all the work will go down the drain.

Such a groove is quite enough to lubricate the bearing; as you can see, due to the timely cooling of the part with water, there are completely no traces of blue. After cutting the groove, we take needle files and thoroughly sand all burrs, sharp corners, and “other jambs” both inside and outside.

The connecting rod has been modified, now you can start assembling.

We place any cheek on some flat surface (preferably wooden) and, using a mandrel, a heavy hammer or a small sledgehammer, drive the bearing pin into the cheek. Be careful not to let your finger stick out of your cheek.

We put the support washer on the finger, then we put the connecting rod with the pre-washed bearing there and put the second washer on top.

We adjust the mandrel under the finger, take the second cheek, turn it around so that it is as equal as possible to the first and, through a spacer, place the second cheek on the shaft.

You shouldn’t push the cheeks together too much; bring them together so that there is a small gap between the connecting rod and the cheek (0.15-0.2 mm).

The final step in all this work will be the final alignment of the crankshaft.

The crankshaft cheeks do not always occupy a level position during assembly, which is why the crankshaft journals are in different axes. With such an imbalance along the axes, the engine simply cannot work. Therefore, to begin with, we take a caliper in our hands and measure the thickness of the crankshaft in certain places (marked with arrows).

In case of any discrepancies in the thickness of the crankshaft, we either move the cheeks in the desired direction or compress them. Until the thickness of the crankshaft in all measurement locations is absolutely the same.

After we have equalized the thickness, we place the crankshaft on the prisms, install the indicator on the stand and proceed to the final one.

We turn the crankshaft so that the indicator arrow shows maximum runout. Take a piece of chalk and place a mark along the axis of the indicator.

We take a metal plate, cover it with a sheet of some non-ferrous metal; in our case, the role of the non-ferrous metal is played by a piece of lead. And lightly hit (where the mark is) with the marked cheek on the slab. Afterwards, we install the crankshaft on the prisms and check the runout, and repeat this until we can reduce the runout of the axles to the minimum possible value (no more than 0.03 mm).

This work may seem difficult only at first glance, but in fact everything is very easy and simple, the main thing is not to rush! And of course, measuring instruments play a major role here; without them, there is no point in taking on such work.

Source: https://scooter-mania.ru/fotootchet-remont-perepressovka-kolenchatogo-vala-motocikla-izh-planeta/

Good day everyone! Yes, again a story about the beginning of the restoration of another motorcycle. Guest of our garage IZH-Jupiter 4 manufactured in 1983. This motorcycle has recently been in our neighborhood. How he ended up here is our fault (in a good way). I have a good friend, in the summer he is used to racing on the street on a scooter and pit bike. One summer we got to talking and he said that my grandmother had a Jupiter-4 with documents in original condition. I think it's cool, in original condition and with documents. He persuaded me to bring him here. And the one-way road was about 200 km. One fine day, in the morning, we went to pick up a motorcycle. Having experience in transporting Izha, I removed the back seat of the Priora and took all the necessary tools. So we went for this miracle. We've arrived. Since we came to visit a friend's grandmother, we were fed to our heart's content before dismantling the motorcycle. First we went into the barn, where, according to a friend, there were all sorts of spare parts. Found 4 boxes full of spare parts! While we were sorting through what we needed, we sorted out what was unnecessary. They only left spare parts from the Java and crankcase from Jupiter 2. But the most interesting thing was that there were spare parts that were still in solid oil and with factory tags. Wow! Everything they took was put in the trunk. Even then the car got a little stuck, and there was still the matter of loading the motorcycle... We went to the next street to the garage and rolled out this miracle. Hmmm, original condition and documents available. The condition was indeed “original”, but in a bad way, and the documents were of a new type, only the number was not updated. This is the culprit of the trip. How many original assembly solutions there were, it’s painful to even remember, but I’ll describe it. As usual, the muffler was removed and it was necessary to remove the front wheel and remove the fork. Having removed the muffler, I began to unscrew the front axle, but it didn’t move. I look from the other side, and there... The axle was hammered, it couldn’t move at all. I think why did we do this?!!! Well, I think okay, let's remove the plug. I loosened the feathers in the traverses, began to knock them down, but they didn’t fit. Then I looked closer, one feather was 5-7 centimeters longer than the second. And the long feather could not easily leave the traverse. Aaaaah,?*;%!4, we collected some crazy stuff! And at that moment it started to rain, we had to wait it out. Then I got angry at this “hodgepodge”, as I went into the pen, it barely came out. That's it, we loaded it somehow and went home.

After 3 hours we arrived home and began to unload the patient.

And here is one of the piles of spare parts brought. There were also 4 cylinders and another box in the distance. Like a brother, they gave me a few spare parts for moral damage when disassembling and assembling joint components)))))

Somehow I put the front non-separable fork back on. You will immediately see which feather is the longest... Well, otherwise she wouldn’t have gotten dressed) That’s how they collected it from what it was.

Of course, the motorcycle was not always in this condition. It was taken by a friend's grandfather from a store and was the family's daily vehicle. When the car appeared, it looks like the motorcycle was abandoned or maybe even had a minor accident, these guesses are made from the marks on the frame that you will see. Maybe after this accident, a friend’s uncle made it from what was at hand.

So a friend drove it all summer with a hole in the mufflers, with the second gear falling out, but almost every day he washed his mud mixer from the car wash. One evening we were talking about this and that, and I said to a friend, without seriousness, would you like to put him in proper shape? Well, he doesn’t seem to know, it’s all to do, but why, he still has no rights. And then let me persuade you, like, you’ll pass your license and you’ll have your own transport for now, get in and go. After I sent him what his Jupiter 4 might look like, he slowly began to warm up to the idea! And here is an example for inspiration that I sent to him.

That's it, from that moment on we began to plan what and how. When the season was closed, they immediately took off the engine and brought it to me. There were complaints about knocking in the cylinders and unstable operation. Although, what kind of work is there) A friend loved to wash it from the car wash so much that there was water in the filter and carburetor, and when we removed the cylinder knees, it even dripped from there... Oh, how. Well, what can you do, first experience, first serious motorcycle after a scooter and a pit bike. And now, the engine is at our disposal.

Having removed the cylinders, it became clear that the gap between the piston and the liner was too large, and the bearing of the lower connecting rod head was worn out... Plus there was also water in the cylinders.

And then everything is as usual: worn out seals and bearings, a stretched chain and dead clutch discs, incorrect clearances on the gearbox and a couple of worn out gears.

So we completely disassembled the engine. Next, we wash all the insides and immediately write down what else needs to be taken for repairs.

And then the engine goes to its fellow comrades.

After 3 weeks of leisurely assembly on weekends, the engine was assembled. The crankshafts were repressed. The connecting rods were placed under the separator. The cylinders were bored out for 1 repair. In general, a full-fledged cap. repair. After that, the engine lay with me with the others assembled warmly, waiting in the wings.

January. A friend (name is Andrey, I’ll call him that from now on) came here from the city for the weekend. That's it, I decided to take my Jupiter and disassemble it to zero, as I usually do when restoring.

At the back, the frame was “raised up,” the seat was from the 4th model, but they installed a bracket from the 5th model and reupholstered the cover.

The wiring was dangling and almost entirely covered with electrical tape. Everything is like in my worst dreams. There will be a lot of work to do.

And here is the frame... You can see for yourself. There is a giant weld on both sides. In front, too, everything was cooked and overcooked, as it seemed to me due to some kind of accident. We decided to change the frame. Just in my garage I had a good frame from Jupiter 5 collecting dust, I thought why should it just sit there, I’ll give it to Andrey and that’s it.

Wiring... wow, that's a lot of electrical tape. Everything is sloppy and crooked! Fu-fu-fu, we're sorting everything out.

Here are the feathers... How could they be so different!? Apparently, at that time they didn’t think about it, just to drive.

And this is something that didn’t give me any peace. For what?? To seal the front axle is blasphemy! I had to call the Bulgarian lady for help, without her the holiday would not have continued.

They removed the dashboard, the upper crossmember and the steering wheel. How ugly everything was here, complete neglect. Andrey asked, are we sure we can do it? Of course, there’s no other way, we’ll do it and everything will be in the best possible way.

Wiring scraps. We unscrew the remote controls, as well as the mirror brackets - we will paint all this.

We carefully put everything unscrewed against the wall, so that later we can sort out what we will need and what we no longer need...

Rear end. It was more difficult there. All the fasteners were rusty and took a long time to unscrew. And whoever didn’t want to get away with it got acquainted with a Bulgarian woman.

A cherished moment. Everything was taken apart. Having assessed the scale, we figured that we would have to look for a lot of spare parts. We started looking for uncreased mufflers, a rear pendulum, a driven sprocket, a chrome-plated rear seat fender and the right glove compartment, and I won’t even write down the little things - there’s a sea of ​​them!

We found all this quite quickly, and decided on the long weekend of February 23 to paint everything black and put the motorcycle on wheels. We arrived in a warm garage and brought all our stuff.

I had to take the normal right glove compartment from my hands, since my original one had a huge crack. Plus, this still has the emblem, which we will then put on the freshly painted cladding.

Creative chaos))

We are preparing the frame and everything black for painting. Sand, clean, degrease.

The next day we came to the garage and removed everything painted from drying. Great, everything has dried and looks great!

The drive sprocket casing and the front brake drum... All this must be washed, sanded, sanded, polished.

The first step was to rebuild the suspension. While I was sorting out the fork stays, Andrei was grinding the front brake and rear drums and washing everything free of dirt. Since there were different stays before, we had to take spare ones from the garage, set aside for an occasion that just happened. Having replaced the bearings in the steering column, we put on the fork stays. Andrey immediately put on the new turn signals, he couldn’t just watch them lie on the chair ))

Rear shock absorbers line. After repressing the silent blocks, replacing the seals, cups and oil, the shock absorbers became like new.

While I was sorting out the shock absorbers, Andrey cleaned and ground all the aluminum parts and lightly polished them. Then they screwed the whole thing into place. The motorcycle was changing before our eyes! This certainly made us happy.

We installed glove compartments and a brake pedal. We started installing parts that had been cleaned of dirt - ignition coils, rods and others. No time wasted)

We walked at a good pace! Of course) The other day they left a whole bucket of pickled Istoben cucumbers (those in the know will understand what they are) and cabbage in the garage; we took some fresh bread and had a good meal there))) In the garage, all the food becomes even tastier!

Having replaced the wheel bearings and the driven star bearing, we put on the wheel and the updated rear casing. Now at least he can stand on the step and not fall))

We also replaced the bearings on the front wheel. We also changed the tires with the camera. The old camera was already in terrible condition. We also changed the brake pads and speedometer cable. All gears were generously lubricated. We went through the dashboard and put it in place. Now the motorcycle took on a completely different, pleasant look.

We certainly accomplished a lot that evening! They left the garage already after midnight. We decided to take a break on the last day of the weekend)) At first glance, it may seem that the volume is small. But when we did all this, time simply flew by and by nightfall we were already completely tired. Okay, I had enough experience of assembling it overnight, but Andrey was still just learning what it meant to sort through an IZh)))))

On this note we decided to end our busy weekend. Having put the motorcycle on its wheels, we rolled it into Andrei’s garage, so it would get in the way here on weekdays.

It’s nice to know that another IL is gradually being reborn from an incomprehensible state. Although it’s surprising that even in such a dead state, at the very least, he drove around. And I’m just happy in my heart that my friend decided to restore, and not finish, the motorcycle; of course, I will help him until the very end of the rebuild. Also, the approach to this matter is striking: no matter how many times I talked about repairs with citizens from 15 to 19 years old, most of them constantly want to save on all sorts of little things and don’t particularly bother with the result. But here it’s a completely different matter - if you need something, we take it without any questions. That is, a person is fired up by this idea and wants to properly make a motorcycle for himself, so that in the future he can simply sit down, go, service, go, go, go. If only we could have more people like this to do everything right once, although there will be more investments, it will be worth it.

At this point, the first part can be brought to an end. Now the cladding has already been sandblasted and will be powder painted. We are preparing the remaining spare parts for installation. Just a couple more days off and the motorcycle will be assembled)) See you soon, thank you for your attention

Photo report: Repair of the engine of the IZH-Planet motorcycle 2, 3, 4 and fifth model

Nowadays it’s rare to find a “Planet” anywhere, especially in stock form. Grandfather's sheds where they once stood in abundance have long been cleaned out by the suffering, and the garbage dumps where they once lay are overgrown with grass...

The only place where you can still find something more or less decent is local newspaper advertisements. You can also search on Avito, but before you buy it there, see the product in person, otherwise they will send you a bag of bricks instead of an engine...

I was lucky: I found an advertisement in a local newspaper for the sale of an engine from a sidecar, went to the place, inspected it, made an agreement, bought it and brought it home. Don’t let the fact that the engine is from a motorized stroller scare you - the engine is completely identical to the original Planetovsky one.

In general, when I tossed the engine around, I was happy and immediately upset... I was happy because the engine was stock and had no signs of interference. There was also original oil and a USSR spark plug. I was upset because the piston and lower connecting rod bearing were killed.

I had a good factory cylinder in stock: bored to repair size + a factory piston, chrome rings and pin were purchased for it a long time ago.

I bought the connecting rod from an online store. We managed to find a factory one - not plasticine. I modified it a little: I made a small cut in the lower head to improve bearing lubrication, decompressed the crankshaft, threw out the old connecting rod, installed a new one and then centered the crankshaft using an indicator.

Tools

Tools you will need:

1. Drill or screwdriver
2. Metal drill 4 - 5 mm
3. Flat file
4. Technical hair dryer
5. Mandrels. Plumbing fittings can be used as mandrels
6. Powerful flat head screwdriver
7. Open-end or socket wrench 14
8. Clamp
9. Hammer or mallet
10. Oil can or syringe
11. Sealant

Preparation

To perform a high-quality repair, the engine parts must be clean, the threads in the crankcase must be threaded, the seals and gaskets must be new.

First, we clean the oil channels in the crank chambers. There are two channels in the Izh-Planet engine: one in the left half of the crankcase, the other in the right. We find the channels and if they are very clogged, we clean them with wire, rinse them with clean gasoline and blow them with compressed air.

Preparation

Russian is Russian, so until we process all the parts properly with a file before installation, nothing will work out...

Insert the cylinder rings and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap in the lock.

• If the gap is less than normal, file the ends of the rings with a file

To reduce engine noise and speed up the ring grinding process, remove small chamfers on their working edges (preferably)

To improve lubrication of the piston pin, use a 5-6 mm drill to drill through holes in the piston bosses (optional)

We remove flashes and deposits of metal in the cylinder windows and round the edges along which the rings go

After finishing work, we thoroughly wash all the parts, prepare a clean work area and begin assembly.

Engine repair IZH Planet 5

The IZH Planet 5 motorcycle, created in 1987 by the Izhevsk plant, is still popular among motorcyclists. This is a very high-quality and reliable bike, characterized by durability, simplicity and affordability. Disassembling the IZH Planet 5 engine is quite simple even for amateurs. The design of the motorcycle itself does not contain complex elements.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yekfVJhtL8M

Planet 5 is unpretentious to weather conditions. If you want to start the engine in a cold winter, it will surprise you, even if it is -30 degrees outside the window. Moreover, the motorcycle was designed to ride on various types of roads, which makes it very passable and an excellent assistant in agricultural work.

Like its counterpart, Jupiter 5, IZH Planet 5, whose engine performance is not much inferior to its “brother,” has a strict classic style. However, it has a number of advantages over Jupiter, the main of which are:

• single cylinder engine;
• disassembly and repair of the gearbox without removing the engine;
• presence of one muffler.

However, there is also a big disadvantage . The Planet's crankshaft is much more massive, so it operates at lower speeds, which makes it less powerful.

Although the design of the IZH Planet 5 engine is practically no different from the Jupiter one.

True, breakdowns occur no less frequently, so if you switched from one motorcycle to another, there should not be any special problems with operation and maintenance.

IZH Planet 5 engine diagram

Assembly and disassembly of the IZH Planet 5 engine

Domestic motorcycles of the IZH brand, despite their age, are still popular in various parts of our country. This simple and unpretentious transport is especially popular among residents of rural areas.

Not every imported motorcycle can start at +40 or -30, run on any gasoline, and when modified with a sidecar, it turns into a universal transport for a hunter or fisherman. Unfortunately, these motorcycles also have a significant drawback - low engine life. It’s rare that an IZh can work for several seasons and not fail.

That is why below you will find step-by-step instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the IZH Planet 5 engine.

Repairing the IZH Planet engine can be done entirely with your own hands, since the simple design allows this. The main postulate of such work is to follow the established order of disassembly and assembly.

Following the diagram below, you can get to all engine elements in order to inspect or replace them. It makes sense to completely disassemble the engine if you need to get to the crankshaft or left oil seal.

Failure of the latter leads to a decrease in driving characteristics and smoking due to the presence of a large amount of oil inside the crank chamber.

Step-by-step disassembly diagram:

1. Unscrew the spark plug and nuts from the top of the cylinder. We remove the cylinder with the piston.
2. We drain the remaining oil in the engine and remove the engine from the frame (mounts in the front and rear), having first disconnected and numbered all the wires.
3. We unscrew the left cover and remove as much as possible the gearbox and other accessible elements.
4. From under the right cover we remove the generator, the final drive sprocket and the crankshaft oil seal.
5. We remove all accessible parts related to the gearbox.
6. On the right we find the screws that tighten the crankcase parts. We unscrew them together with the nuts of the two bolts.
7. Use a rod of suitable diameter to push out the installation sleeves so that they partially remain in the grooves.
8. Using a mallet, lightly tap along the entire plane of contact between the crankcase parts. If the parts do not move away from each other or come off partially, try inserting a mounting blade into the groove and tapping it without much force.
9. Unscrew the locking plate and remove it.
10. We take out the ring-washers, simultaneously noting their order.
11. The left side of the crankcase can now be removed from the crankshaft. If the element does not give in, you can use light blows with a rubber hammer to help the parts separate.
12. Using pliers, remove the retaining ring.
    To remove ball bearings, you will need a pipe or similar element, the end of which coincides with the outer race of the bearing. We lean it against the bearing and little by little knock it out of its mounting position.
13. By lightly tapping, remove the guides of the gear shift units.
14. We take out the retaining ring installed inside, and behind it the split remote ring.
15. Press in the left oil seal. Similarly, we take out the main bearing ring installed on the right.

Engine disassembly is complete, now you can repair the IZH Planet 5 engine.

Engine assembly IZH Planet 5

The engine assembly process occurs in the reverse order, with the obligatory condition that all technological features of the process are observed. When restoring the motor, do not forget that this is a precise mechanism and its main characteristics will depend on how carefully you approach the fitting and installation of all parts.

• All dismantled spare parts and engine elements are washed with solvent and an inspection is carried out. If serious chips, scuffs or other defects are found, these parts are replaced. If the left half of the crankcase or the right is damaged, then they are replaced in pairs.
• The joining surfaces are cleaned of traces of sealant or gaskets.
• The elements of the gear shift assembly are polished to a shiny surface.
• We fill the left oil seal with grease and install it in place with the bearing ring, followed by a shaped washer.
• We install the retaining ring, after checking the accuracy of installation, proceed to the next steps.
• Next we mount the main bearing rollers and lubricate them.
• We put on the crankshaft and place a ball bearing lubricated with grease on it.
• We install spacer washers and follow them with a retaining ring.
• Let's see how easily the crankshaft rotates after lubricating it with engine oil.

If assembly at this stage does not cause any complaints, the following steps correspond to the reverse order of engine assembly. Please note that you need to purchase a complete set of new gaskets, and additionally lubricate the connecting surfaces with heat-resistant sealant.

Source: https://www.real-biker.ru/articles/razborka-dvigatelya-izh-planeta-5-42/

Engine IZH Planet 3, 4 and 5, disassembly, assembly for repair and tuning

When disassembling the engine, you must first drain the oil from it and remove it from the motorcycle frame; you must wash the engine thoroughly. To do this, it is advisable to use a high-pressure apparatus (car wash) with car shampoo. Having washed the engine and protected it from getting dirt inside, we proceed to disassembly.

We remove the right engine cover, remove the generator (by unscrewing the mounting bolts). Be careful not to damage the paronite gasket; remove the cover and disassemble the box. We take out the gears with the shafts and disassemble the shift mechanism, remove the control levers from the engine, and remove the clutch cover. We completely disassemble the clutch and remove the motor chain.

We disassemble the piston, remove the cylinder head (by unscrewing the fastening nuts), then remove the cylinder. After this, remove the piston from the crankshaft, first removing the retaining rings and carefully knocking out the piston pin.

We place the engine on its left side and, carefully without damaging the heads, unscrew the connection bolts using a powerful screwdriver. Then we knock out the centering halves of the crankcase half the length of the bushing.

Using a mallet, we strike the area where the crankcase halves are separated. We remove the crankcase half from the crankshaft and press the bearings out of it. To improve the pressing of the bearing, oil seal and outer race of the roller bearing from the crankcase, the crankcase half must be heated to 70-90 degrees.

Disassembled parts must be washed in gasoline and carefully inspected; damaged and faulty parts must be replaced with new ones. Clean the junction of the crankcase halves from old glue. On the oil seals (cuffs), pay attention to cracks and springs. The bearings should rotate easily without jamming and should not have any play. Having prepared the serviceable parts, we begin assembly.

We assemble the engine in the opposite order of disassembly. Be sure to heat the crankcase half to the same temperature, which makes assembly easier and preserves the crankcase surface from damage during pressing. The connection of the crankcase halves must be coated with BF-4 glue.

When installing the piston on the crankshaft, it is advisable to heat it to a temperature of 60 degrees, this will help when inserting the piston pin. During assembly, you also need to lubricate the cylinder mirror and piston pin with engine oil.

When installing the cylinder and cylinder head, install new gaskets. Pay attention to the position of the piston rings in the piston locks; if installed incorrectly during assembly, the rings may break.

Source: https://planeta-4.ru/obsluzhivanie/dvigatelj_razborka_sborka_planeta.php

Quality of parts

The “quality” of parts for Soviet motorcycles that are currently on sale does not correspond to even the worst Soviet models. The Soviet one was not ideal either - believe me. The only thing there were no complaints about was the quality of the metal, but the manufacturing accuracy of Soviet manufacturers was lame and very, very bad

Rings

When purchasing new rings, insert them into the cylinder (new or after boring) and check for clearance

• If the rings fit tightly, we buy
• If the rings do not fit the mirror, try others

An example of a perfect fit of a ring to a mirror (“Ant”)

"Sunrise"

After checking for fit, we put the rings on the piston and measure the gap between the ring and the piston groove with a feeler gauge.

• If the gap is greater than 0.01-0.02 mm, try another ring
• If after several tried rings the gap is larger than expected, we try another piston

Voskhod piston with a gap clearly exceeding all conceivable standards

“Ant” piston with permissible clearance

Piston

One of the most dangerous and common problems in new pistons is the incorrect position of the ring stoppers. Customers have already brought pistons several times that had problems with the location of the stoppers

• Before purchasing a piston, use some pliers to tug on the stopper
• If the stopper is wobbly, we debug this piston and take the next one for check

Consequences of a flying stopper (“Ant”)

If the stopper fits tightly, place marks opposite the stoppers and insert the piston into the cylinder so that it does not reach the windows. Afterwards, we turn the piston so that it becomes exactly the same as in the engine. That is, the arrow is forward, and the axis of the finger is strictly along the axis of the crankshaft and look:

• If at least one risk has become opposite the windows or next to the window, we debug the piston and take another
• If there are risks between the windows, we buy

An example of the incorrect placement of stoppers on the assembled Voskhod engine. If the ring lock is in this position, the ring will inevitably break

An example of the correct position of the stoppers (“Ant”)

Motorcycle Izh Planet 5 engine specifications

Two-wheeled motorcycle IZH Planet 5 engine, which developed only 22 hp. pp., throughout almost the entire period of its production, and from 1987 to 2008 it was considered one of the most common middle-class motorcycles among domestic buyers.

• Engine for the fifth model.
• Reasons for repair.
• Engine modernization.

This motorcycle was developed and manufactured at the Izhevsk Machine-Building Plant (Izhmash), which is located in the capital of the Republic of Udmurtia. The main advantages that ensured the popularity of Izhevsk motorcycles, and not only in Russia, should be considered:

1. Ease of use.
2. Simplicity of design and maintenance.
3. High overall reliability.
4. Economical, repairable motors.
5. Affordable prices.

In addition, Izhmash constantly sought to make changes and improvements in the design of its products, including the Izh Planet 5 motorcycle model and the Izh Planet 5 engine.

At the plant itself, production was regularly modernized in order to improve quality.

Thus, the assembly of power units, including the assembly of the IZH Planet 5 engine, was carried out at a specialized technological site.

Engine for the fifth model

The Izh Planet 5 engine contains the following main characteristics and indicators:

• execution type – two-stroke with one cylinder;
• working volume – 345 cubic meters. cm;
• piston diameter – 72 mm;
• power – 22.0 l. With. at 4800 crankshaft rpm;
• battery voltage – 12 volts;
• cooling option – air;
• ignition type – contactless;
• the ratio of the mixture of oil and gasoline (A 76) is 1/30.

Reasons for repair

Complete disassembly of the Izh Planet 5 engine during repair work is carried out if damage or breakdown of the following elements occurs:

• crankshaft;
• bearings;
• piston;
• connecting rod

Failure of these parts can occur due to engine jamming, general severe wear, which is accompanied by increased noise during operation, as well as various knocking noises in the crankcase. In addition, repair of the Izh Planet engine with its complete disassembly is carried out when the crankshaft seals are worn out.

At the initial stage of production of power units, the reed valve on the Izh Planet 5 had certain technological shortcomings associated with low strength.

Therefore, it quickly collapsed, its elements fell inside the cylinder, which required further disassembly and, in most cases, replacement of the Izh Planet 5 piston.

After a certain time, the manufacturer eliminated this defect.

If, when operating the engine, all routine and technical maintenance procedures established by the manufacturer were observed, and appropriate technological materials and fluids were used, then it was operated for a long time, while maintaining its technical parameters.