This is the kind of generator you want to see on a motorcycle.
And this is what the generator of a Ural or Dnepr motorcycle usually looks like when it has been in operation.
- Let's get started. We disassemble the generator, clean the covers, degrease and prime. With this process everything is clear and does not cause any difficulties.
After the generator is disassembled, you can check the condition of the bearings, oil seal, and brushes. It's better to change it right away. Remove the bearings either with a puller or carefully cut them with a grinder.
Check: Winding on the rotor (armature). Winding on the stator. Checking for breakdown, ground, interturn short circuit and open circuit can be carried out by “continuity” using a multimeter. You can also check the diode bridge with a multimeter. More on this further...
Theory of generator operation and performance testing.
Theory.
The figure below shows a diagram of the generator assembled (on the left) and on the right, disassembled into three parts.
Diode bridge, Stator winding (non-moving part) connected according to a star circuit and Armature (aka rotor, what rotates), brushes are just feed contacts.
Troubleshooting or testing should be divided into three parts: checking the stator winding, checking the armature winding, checking the bridge.
But first we should remind you how it all works.
Operating principle of three-phase alternator:
1. Excitation voltage is applied to the rotor winding using graphite brushes through contact rings.
2. Rotating inside the stator winding, the rotor winding through which current flows induces an EMF in the stator winding. Faraday's law. There are 3 stator windings and they are out of phase by 120 degrees.
3. The alternating voltage is removed from the stator windings and converted to constant voltage by a diode bridge. In the diagram and graph below it is clear how alternating current is rectified into direct current by diodes.
In a three-phase alternating current generator, there is no permanent magnet; instead, there is an electromagnet in the form of one winding on the armature, which, when voltage is applied to it, “excites” generation.
This is what the assembled generator looks like with a circuit diagram superimposed on it.
Below is a diagram of connecting the generator to the on-board network with a relay regulator of a new three-pin model and an old one.
The difference in the above diagrams is in the relay regulator. In the circuit with the VAZ regulator, it is not necessary to connect the generator control terminal. The regulator itself has status diagnostic indicators.
So:
The generator in the on-board network of a motorcycle is controlled in the same way as in a car.
A modern relay regulator is built on semiconductor elements and there is no relay in it as such; instead, an electronic key is organized, which is either open or closed. Also, the regulator relay contains a measuring element that is capable of measuring the generator output voltage and checking it with its reference voltage. At the moment when Uout. — the voltage at the generator output will be greater than Uop. - voltage support, RR will remove power from the excitation winding and generation will stop. The engine is started and the rotor rotates in the stator winding, voltage is supplied to the excitation winding through the PP and the generator is excited. As long as the voltage supplied by the generator and the PP regulator is not high, it monitors that power is supplied to the excitation winding.
By increasing the engine speed, the voltage on the generator will increase, since the dependence of the voltage on the generator speed is proportional. The PP will supply power to the field winding as long as the generator voltage meets the limit set in the PP control circuit. This limit usually ranges from 0 to 14 Volts. As soon as the voltage on the generator goes beyond the permissible limits, the PP will turn off the excitation winding.
About charging at idle:
At idle speed, there is usually no charging in Ural motorcycles. This is caused by the fact that, despite the fact that excitation power is supplied and the generator is rotating, the voltage at the generator output is < battery voltage. When the speed increases, there is charging.
Examination
1. Checking the rotor (Anchor)
It is necessary to remove the brushes and the plastic holder to access the slip rings. Set the multimeter to the “continuity” mode and connect the probes to the slip rings.
The device should show a short circuit. This is a regular two-contact coil. Next, you can check whether there are short circuits between the rotor and its core on which it is wound and, accordingly, short circuits to the housing. One probe for the contact ring, the second for the body or the armature itself. There should be no short circuits. The device should show infinite resistance.
2. Checking the stator windings.
Using the probes of the device in the “continuity” mode, check each terminal of the stator winding for a short circuit to the housing. There should be no short circuit. The device should show infinite resistance.
Next, the windings are checked among themselves. Since the windings are connected in a star configuration. The device must show the presence of a short circuit and a resistance of at least 0.4 Ohm. The resistance between the windings must be the same. If it is different, then there may be an interturn short circuit. About the inter-turn short circuit separately: This malfunction may not clearly interfere with the operation, depending on where such a short circuit occurs in the winding and there may be no charge. There are special testers for searching for turn-to-turn short circuits, which will greatly facilitate diagnostics. “Short circuit indicator” is described in detail in this article
3. Checking the diode bridge.
It is better to carry out the test with the bridge completely removed and check each diode separately for breakdown. It is highly recommended to check each diode.
4. Well, the most important part of the test. Voltage generation.
Let’s assume that the first three points have been completed and all elements of the generator are working according to the measurement results. But as practice shows, despite all this, the generator may not produce electricity during operation. energy. In principle, you can start checking the generator like this:
From the power supply or battery we apply excitation voltage to the armature winding. Plus to terminal (Ш) minus to generator ground. In this particular example, 6 volts were applied to the winding, the voltage drop across the armature was 1V. In a static state, the device detects an insignificant voltage. Next, take a screwdriver with a 10mm head and rotate the rotor by the fan bolt.
While the rotor is rotating, the device records a voltage of 2.5 Volts. We can say unequivocally that the generator is working.
G 414 generator as an engine
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Zavodnoy » Apr 28, 2015, 3:04 pm
IMHO It is difficult to move up to 417. The thermostat is interfering.
The more powerful the gene, the faster you will restore the battery capacity after it is discharged by a winch. but don’t forget the corresponding wires for the gene
WITH RESPECT, DENIS.
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Message T-34 » Apr 28, 2015, 3:47 pm
As for the power, it’s clear, then the next question arises: if you manage to push it to 120A, then should you change the battery that is currently installed? or will it go like this?
Sent after 41 seconds: 12V 55A-h 490A
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Post by Zavodnoy » April 28, 2015, 5:27 pm
WITH RESPECT, DENIS.
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Post by Modelist » April 28, 2015, 6:25 pm
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Post by Iskerhan » April 28, 2015, 7:28 pm
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Senka » April 28, 2015, 8:30 pm
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Post by Gray_cat » Apr 28, 2015, 11:34 pm
repair of TVs, monitors, washing machines. 89220709943 89058229728
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Sergo772 » April 29, 2015, 00:38
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Message T-34 » April 29, 2015, 09:36
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Sergo772 » Apr 29, 2015, 10:09 am
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Message T-34 » April 29, 2015, 3:18 pm
Sergo772, are you not satisfied with the height, since you want to change the mount or why?
Sent after 4 hours 17 seconds: And another question arises when transferring the genes to the top: Apparently a standard belt is not enough, but which one should I use, from which car? Who did what?
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Sergo772 » Apr 30, 2015, 11:30 am
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Generator for UAZ 90A or 120A
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Post by Modelist » Apr 30, 2015, 11:38 am
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Post by Zavodnoy » April 30, 2015, 12:46 pm
T-34 wrote: Sergo772, are you not satisfied with the height, since you want to change the mount or why?
Sent after 4 hours 17 seconds: And another question arises when transferring the genes to the top: Apparently a standard belt is not enough, but which one should I use, from which car? Who did what?
the belt is not a problem - first install the gene, then measure the length of the belt with a string and buy a belt (for example, in Rossko) or somewhere else
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