The road version of the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle differed favorably from other domestic analogues by the use of an oil pump, which made it possible to abandon the scheme for pre-mixing fuel with oil.
In addition, subsequent modifications were distinguished by their contactless ignition system, independent of the battery, and modified kinematics.
This allowed:
- To set the motorcycle in motion “from the pusher” - by turning on the ignition, the owner engaged second gear and, using his own efforts, pushing the motorcycle forward, started the engine;
- Operation without a battery was possible during daylight hours (a battery was still required for the side lights and headlights to operate).
According to industry norm, the motorcycle had an alphanumeric index:
- IZH 7.107-010 – basic model;
- IZH 7.107-020 was already equipped with a new lubrication system and improved front axle suspension. In addition, the wiring diagram of the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle had a contactless ignition system, independent of the battery;
- IZH 7.107-030 was equipped with a spring-hydraulic shock absorber and a redesigned rear wheel brake drive;
- IZH 7.107-040 was produced with modified kinematics and a modified front wheel brake. The wiring diagram on IZH Planet 5 remained contactless until 2008.
In addition, a side trailer (sidecar) or a universal cargo platform (without a seat) could be attached to the motorcycle.
Izh planet 5 adjust the ignition
Izh Planet 5 is the brainchild of the Izhevsk Machine-Building Plant. Its production was discontinued in 2008, and the model itself entered the assembly line back in 1987. Accordingly, in any case, the bikes that are traveling on our roads are far from brand new. But they are reliable in service, so we will see this model on our roads for many more years. Izh Planet 5, the ignition adjustment of which is described below.
It goes without saying that with age, any technology develops certain problem areas. Izh Planet 5, in principle, does not create extremely problematic situations for its owner, but it does have a weak point - ignition.
In order to figure out how to adjust the ignition on Izh Planet 5 and be able to fix the problem yourself if necessary, you need to have a certain tool, time and a little optimism. The first time it may be a little difficult, but as they say, the master’s work is feared.
First you need to remove the crankcase cover, but you can get by by removing only the generator cover. In the first case, it will be more convenient to do subsequent work.
The tool you will need is a caliper or a feeler gauge, but in the absence of such, you can make an analogue of a depth gauge using a handy tool (screwdriver), the feeler gauge is needed to measure the gap.
We connect the control light to the terminal. We turn the spark plug out after turning on the ignition. We take the crankshaft by the generator bolt and turn it in the direction of movement of the clock hand until the moment when the breaker contacts are maximally open, after which you should loosen the screw, turn the eccentric and set the intercontact gap to approximately 0.5 mm.
Tighten the screw. We lower a caliper micrometer (or its equivalent) into the cylinder. Carefully turning the crankshaft, we find the top dead center (TDC) by performing rotations in the direction of movement of the hand on the clock. We fix or mark this position on a micrometer (screwdriver). Let's measure and record a 3.5 mm mark on the micrometer. below the original mark.
After which it is necessary to turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction until the piston stops with a micrometer (screwdriver, feeler gauge), while the piston should not cross the 3.5 mm line from top dead center (TDC).
Opening of contacts can be easily determined using a probe, one edge of which is connected to ground, and the other to the breaker hammer terminal. Turning on the ignition is accompanied by a light bulb, which indicates that the contacts have opened.
When you have neither a rod nor a probe at hand, try to trust your own eye, using available materials, move the eccentric with a wrench so that the contacts open as wide as possible. Loosen the screw securing the moving contact and use the eccentric screw to adjust the gap to 0.4 - 0.5 mm.
Find a 10 cm ruler that can fit into the spark plug hole, and rotate the armature with a wrench, gradually bringing the piston to TDC. Place a ruler against the piston, make a mark on it that coincides with the edge of the spark plug hole, and the next mark 3.5 mm higher than the previous one.
Rotate counterclockwise until the edges of the spark plug hole line up with the second mark. Lock it in. The ruler, of course, must be removed.
Now you need to place the spark plug on the ribs of the head , while loosening the two screws securing the contact pad, turning on the ignition, carefully move the pad from side to side to find the optimal position at which it will be possible for a spark to occur between the contacts and the spark plugs.
The site is fixed. We check the correctness of the adjustment - rotate the armature by the bolt, after turning on the ignition. A spark will appear at the moment when the piston is 3.5 mm from TDC. This was our second mark.
To prevent the engine from starting to work in the opposite direction after the piston rises to TDC, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction until the piston is lowered below TDC by 2-3 mm. This procedure increases efficiency.
Today, many owners replace the standard ignition with electronic ignition on the Izh Planet 5. The installation of the BSZ on Izh Planet 5 can be carried out without dismantling the cam system, but it significantly improves all characteristics and facilitates operation. The road is waiting for you.
Source
Comments and reviews
To do this, we need to turn the crankshaft.
True, only in this state. Restoration process When the euphoria from the purchase wears off, a lot of questions arise regarding its repair and restoration with your own hands. One of the most common problems with Planet motorcycles is loss of battery charge due to a faulty alternator. Head light Unlike European countries, where there is a requirement that motorcycles with permanent magnet generators must be equipped with a battery, since a motorcycle with a non-working engine must have side lights, in Russia there are no such restrictions, see.
For example, on our website there are materials on servicing several brands and models, and you can get the information you need from them, see. The rotor winding is checked in the same way. Sound signal of IZH 7 motorcycles.
For electrical work, you will need a wiring diagram for IZH Jupiter 2 - with the exception of the turn signals, they are identical. Ignition installation for IZH 7 motorcycles.
It is recommended to mark the wires or tie them with thin wire to avoid confusion. This is what the motorcycle looked like back in the year. What is the value of this model? Such increased attention to the IZH Planet 2 model is caused by the fact that: in total, just over thousands of them were produced; and there are few surviving copies left; which only increases its value among collectors. For reference: with such a generator, IZH Planet 5 did not need an external current source when starting the engine.
The problem with Planet 5 motorcycles is the lack of a separate fuse box, and often in the event of a malfunction it is necessary to inspect the entire electrical wiring. Modifications But the creator engineers did not stop there and, having released the five-millionth car from the assembly line, presented a modification of the IZH Planet
Typical wiring diagram for IZH Planet
Central lock Let's consider the process of restoring the central lock, since in most surviving models it is faulty. Using a multimeter set to ohmmeter mode, measure the resistance of the windings. To do this, you need to touch the body with one probe, and the other three wires of the winding in turn. The power source on both IZh 5 and 6 motorcycles is a battery and a 3-phase alternating current generator.
The standard IZ Planet 5 wiring model provides for installing a fuse on the positive wire of the battery. Electronic switch for motorcycles IZH 7. Electrics IZH. Connecting the wiring from the generator to the BPV unit. Electrical IL
| Let's move on, it became boring to do nothing, on forums and social networks I read about the Contactless Ignition System. |
Ignition switch Voskhod - central switch
Switch 124005490201 is used as a central software switch that provides the necessary switching of lighting equipment on a motorcycle. The switch has three operating positions >, >, > in accordance with the following operating modes:
Caring for the central switch comes down to periodically checking the reliability of the switch in the headlight and cleaning the moving and fixed contacts from dust and dirt by washing them in gasoline.
the article I mentioned above:
First, we need to acquire (make, buy – underline as necessary) a special tool. 1) Tester (a 12-volt light bulb with two wires or a store-bought one) If you have a BSZ installed, then it’s better to use a device like this (you can buy it at a car store) or a tester. 2) we need a depth gauge - it can be a caliper, or a special device, personally I I use this PribludaVitalik offers this one. I think the meaning is clear. 3) Feeler gauges for measuring the gap.
Rice. 11.3 – screws; 2 – eccentrics; 4 – breaker base; 5 – cam; 6 – rotor mounting bolt; 7 – stator fastening screw; 8 – terminal block; 9 – brush holder; 10 – capacitor.
Electrical equipment IZH Jupiter 5
An important element of a motorcycle is a large amount of electrical equipment. The IZh electrical circuit includes the following elements:
- battery; — 12 volts
- generator: - 12 volts
- switch;
- headlight;
- dashboard;
- wiring;
- sound signal;
- turn relay, direction indicators;
- stop signal;
- charging relay;
- combination switch;
- ignition coil, spark plug;
- relay regulator;
- rectifier, fuses.
Given the presence of such a large amount of electrical equipment in the wiring on IZ Jupiter 5, many special terminals were used to fix connections, which made it possible, if problems were detected, to quickly disconnect the faulty element for repair or replacement.
To properly disconnect faulty parts, owners most often used the IZ Jupiter 5 color wiring diagram with a detailed description, which, if necessary, could also be used to determine how to connect certain elements of the circuit.
Fuel level
Adjusting the K-65 carburetor begins with measuring the amount of gasoline in the tank of the float section. To do this, you will need to prepare a certain list of tools. Almost every home craftsman has them. The tool will be required during the process of dismantling the carburetor.
When the device is removed from the slots, you will need to remove the cover from it. It covers the float chamber. Next you need to take a ruler. The float has a special tongue. It needs to be unbent and bent to make adjustments. Due to this, the fuel level in the chamber will change.
You will need to place a ruler on the connector plane. Next, the tongue must be adjusted correctly. The strip on the float should be at 13 mm. The deviation is ±1.5 mm. The floats themselves must be level. The adjustment must be made very precisely. The operation of the carburetor depends on this.
Carburetor - removal and disassembly
It is possible to partially disassemble the carburetor (removing and washing the throttle, repairing the drive, etc.) without removing it from the engine.
1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand.
2. Remove the protective covers.
3. Shutting off the fuel supply, disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor.
4. Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp and disconnect the rubber air filter pipe from the carburetor.
5. 10 mm
Unscrew the mixture corrector nut.
6. Remove the corrector plunger assembly.
7. Disassemble the corrector plunger.
8. Pulling the cable sheath upward, unscrew the throttle valve cover.
9. Remove the throttle valve assembly. Cover the hole with a clean cloth.
10. To replace the cable, you need to compress the damper return spring, and, pushing the cable down, remove its end from the cut in the damper needle nut.
1. 12 mm
unscrew the two bolts securing the carburetor adapter pipe to the cylinder. We remove the carburetor with the pipe, being careful not to tear the paronite gasket.
2. Hold the bolts with a 12mm
, unscrew the nuts securing the adapter pipe
with a 13 mm
. We remove the pipe.
1. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the carburetor cover.
2. Remove the float chamber. There is a paper gasket underneath, be careful not to tear it.
3. Using a thin drift, carefully knock out the float axis.
4. Use thin pliers to remove the axle.
5. Remove the float along with the locking needle.
8 mm socket wrench
We turn out the seat of the shut-off valve.
7. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the jets of the main dosing system and the idle system.
8. 6 mm
turn out the additional jet.
9. 12 mm
We turn out the fuel-emulsion nozzle of the main dosing system.
10. Turn out the “quantity” and “quality” screws.
13. We wash all carburetor parts, except gaskets and rubber parts, in acetone or solvent for nitro paints. We clean all channels and jets with copper wire or toothpicks soaked in solvent, and blow them with compressed air from the compressor.
It is unacceptable to clean carburetor jets with steel wire, needles or any other tool.
We assemble the carburetor in the reverse order, while lubricating the rubber o-rings, threads and gaskets with engine oil or BSK brake fluid containing castor oil.
We tighten the “quantity” and “quality” screws until they stop. Then we unscrew the “quality” screw one turn (preset), and unscrew the “quantity” screw five to seven turns.
We check the operation of the shut-off valve. When the carburetor is oriented with the throttle channel down, the air supplied by the mouth into the inlet fitting should not pass through the valve.
Adjusting the position of the needle of the main dosing system is carried out by rearranging the lock washer in the grooves of the needle:
- washer to the left - enrichment of the mixture; - washer to the right - lean mixture.
Maintenance Features
Often during operation it is necessary to correctly set the gap between the contacts of the breaker. To do this, you need tools and a diagram to see which elements need to be dismantled.
The algorithm of actions is as follows:
In general, all the wiring of IZH Planet 5 is very easy to do with your own hands.
The need for such work often arises when operating a motorcycle:
Often the sound signal suffers during operation. Its malfunctions manifest themselves in the form of deterioration in sound quality.
To restore its functionality, you must perform the following procedure:
Conclusions: we are confident that this article will help you in servicing motorcycles of the IZH family (see also the article about). Both the attached diagrams and description will help you avoid making mistakes during operation.
While easily fixing mechanical failures, motorcyclists experience difficulties if the electrics fail. It’s completely in vain, the wiring diagram of the planet Izh 5 is not complicated, it’s easy to figure out.
There is no need to have special stands and equipment for repairs. A minimum knowledge of electrical engineering and a simple avometer (tester) is enough; even often you can get by with just a test lamp.
We will tell you in more detail about the main electrical wiring components and possible malfunctions. The Izh Planet wiring diagram makes it easy to find a broken wire or damaged insulation (for example, a bad contact always gets hot).
In this case, we look to see if there is a spark at the coil output and at the output at the spark plug contact. Let's take a closer look at the main wiring components of the Izh Planet.
Typical wiring diagram for IZH Planet
Conventionally, the wiring can be divided into 2 circuits: external devices and ignition.
The motorcycle uses the following operating model:
When the engine is running, the generator supplies voltage to the coils and charges the battery. The voltage from the battery goes to other consumers.
The problem with Planet 5 motorcycles is the lack of a separate fuse box, and often in the event of a malfunction it is necessary to inspect the entire electrical wiring. The standard IZ Planet 5 wiring model provides for installing a fuse on the positive wire of the battery. Therefore, in the event of malfunctions in the operation of external devices, but with a working ignition system, this fuse should be checked first.
One of the most common problems with Planet motorcycles is loss of battery charge due to a faulty alternator.
It’s quite easy to check it yourself; the check scheme is as follows:
Guided by your knowledge of the electrical wiring of IZH Planet 5, you can easily restore the wiring on other motorcycles: the IZH wiring diagram and its connections are similar.
The wiring diagram of IZH Planet 5 has a simple design: a single-wire DC network is provided by a 12-volt battery, which is charged by a generator with a power of 100–140 watts. The role of the negative wire in the electrical circuit is played by the metal frame, and since the rest of the wiring has a positive charge, their short circuit is often the main cause of the malfunction.
[Hide]
Dosage system
The K-65 carburetor is adjusted especially carefully in the area of the metering needle. Its position must be carefully adjusted. The engine must be well warmed up. If it has already cooled down, you need to ride the motorcycle for some time on the highway.
On a straight section of the route, you can evaluate the engine's performance. If turning the throttle does not have sufficient effect, you will need to raise the needle. This will lead to an increase in gasoline in the fuel mixture. If after the next trip carbon deposits appear on the spark plugs, you will need to lower the throttle needle one notch.
This approach will ensure stable operation of the engine at medium speeds. This is the most frequently used mode when operating motorcycles. The maximum speed allows you to adjust the measurement of the jet cross-section. When the throttle is turned all the way, it will ensure the operation of the system.
Distinctive features of electrical equipment
The wiring diagram used on IZ Planet 3 was traditional, and the main parameters of the electrical equipment are presented below in the table.
| Ignition system | Battery, ZMTR-10 |
| Mains voltage | 6 volts |
| Electricity source | Generator G-35M7 (later replaced by a modified G-36M8), 45 W |
| Ignition coil | IZH 56 |
| Voltage regulator relay | IZH RR-1 |
| Electrical wiring IZH Planet 3 | Single-wire, with “-” output to ground |
Colored original diagram (clickable)
Lighting devices
The following lighting devices were installed on the IZH Planet 3 motorcycle:
- Left and right direction indicators with A6-6 lamps;
- Turn signal switch P201;
- Turn signal relay RS-419;
- Brake light bulbs A6-15;
- Side light bulbs A6-2;
Appearance of instruments and controls
- Light mode switch with sound signal button P200;
- Transmission position sensor (neutral) with warning lamp A6 0.25;
- Headlight lamp A6-32+32;
- Indicator lamp A6 0.25 generator operation;
- Side light lamp A6-2 (front);
- Speedometer scale illumination lamp A6-1;
Headlight and direction indicators
Attention! For lovers of the “original” and authenticity, the photo below shows the “native” black and white wiring diagram of IZH Planet 3 with a breakdown of all the elements.
Lighting devices for models with a stroller
Added to the existing list:
- Stroller brake light lamp A6-15;
- Stroller size lamp A6-2;
- Right direction indicator for stroller A6-6;
- Front side light of stroller A6-2.
Option with stroller
Note! The standard wiring of the IZH Planet 3 provided for disconnecting the sidecar for operating the motorcycle without it in a two-wheeled version. At the same time, the connecting terminals required care.
In the presented video you can watch the repair of an old motorcycle, which received a new life in capable hands. According to the author of the video, complete restoration cost him the equivalent of $130. Moreover, he did most of the work with his own hands.
Required Parts
In order for the ignition system to work correctly, a number of auxiliary parts are required. They are listed below:
Modulator
The most difficult stage is the production of the modulator
It is important to maintain the required shape. The more reliably the required dimensions are observed, the lower the likelihood of problems occurring after implementing the system, that is, there will be no need to adjust it using a file
The ignition timing must match on any cylinder used.
The bolt hole must be located in the middle. Otherwise, the engine operation will not be synchronized. It is also recommended to check the integrity of the crankshaft bearings. If you find defects, you should immediately replace it.
The contact ignition is not able to work normally if the bearings are damaged. The thickness of the part should not exceed one and a half millimeters. If it is thin, it will not be possible to avoid deformation, and if it is thick, it will come into contact with the surface of the hall sensor housing.
To create the plate, it is allowed to use any material except steel. Aluminum and others should not be used as they are not magnetic. The drawing that must be followed can be found in the public domain. The presented diagram will be useful to those people who decide to modernize the vehicle ignition device. Below are methods for installing electrical ignition devices in Jupiter.
It must be turned by a professional turner. He will make a simple disk and draw on it the markings of elementary distances between the corners. Then, in accordance with it, you will cut out the necessary sectors at home. The cost of the modulator is seventy rubles.
It is not advisable to use an ordinary plate, since its width is less than twelve millimeters. This will not be enough to fully accumulate the energy resource in the coil. Of course, it can be installed, but achieving four thousand revolutions per minute will become impossible.
In addition to the above you will need:
Improving the standard system
For those owners who do not want to switch to a contactless ignition system, there are other ways to improve sparking.
At the same time, the wiring of the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle is analyzed for problem areas, and most often:
- The primary circuit from the battery to the coil is diagnosed;
- Locations of voltage reduction caused by operating conditions are identified.
A simple inspection of the primary circuit will demonstrate several problem areas at once:
- four plug connectors;
- emergency ignition switch;
- central switch contacts;
- breaker contacts.
Under ideal operating conditions, such a complex section of the chain will work flawlessly.
But in practice, it is exposed to dust and dirt flying from under the wheels, so in the circuit due to the increase in resistance at the contact points:
- the voltage decreases from 12 V to 7-8 V;
- this is not enough to excite a powerful discharge in the secondary winding of the coil;
- as a result, a low discharge on the spark plug, making it difficult to ignite the combustible mixture in the cylinders.
And if you add to this a dead battery and oily spark plugs with burnt contacts, then the sparking process becomes completely problematic.
Motorcyclists solve such defects as follows:
- traditional soldering. The wiring on IZH Yu5 gets rid of plug connections and each wiring is soldered manually, followed by insulation;
- installation of an additional toggle switch (in diagram No. 1), which turns off all consumers at the moment the engine starts. This allows the maximum voltage from the battery to be supplied to the coil;
- alteration of the ignition switch. A wire is soldered to the free connector of lock 4 (in diagram No. 2), the second end of which is fed to the positive terminal of the coil. The standard ignition wire from terminal 5 is transferred to terminal 6 and when this key position is activated, a simplified power supply circuit from the battery to the primary circuit of the coil is activated.
Conclusions: from this article you can learn not only proven methods for improving the electrical part of a motorcycle (as in the article about), but also watch video materials that clearly demonstrate the algorithm for modernization work.
Unlike similar Soviet-era motorcycle models, the electrical wiring diagram of the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle provides for operation from a battery with air-cooled equipment. This causes many problems for owners. The article provides recommendations for modernization that solves problems with sparking.
[Hide]
Adjusting the K-68 carburetor on the IZH Planet-5 motorcycle
The K-68I carburetor was installed on the Izh Planet-5 motorcycle more often than others. With proper setup and proper care, the motorcycle starts quickly, runs smoothly and without complaints.
To adjust the K-68I carburetor you will need a flat-head screwdriver, pliers, and a ruler. For clarity and ease of adjustment, use the K-68 carburetor diagram.
Algorithm for adjusting the Izh Planeta-5 carburetor:
Generator
The heart is the generator (sometimes called a magneto, but they were never used on Izh Planet). Three windings produce alternating current. For excitation, an additional coil is used instead of a permanent magnet. Therefore, it is impossible to jump start a motorcycle with a completely dead or missing battery.
A diode bridge for current rectification and a voltage regulator assembled in one unit are mounted on the Izh Planet 5 generator (they are not even highlighted in the Izh Planet wiring diagram manuals).
Possible breakdowns in this unit:
- It is checked by measuring their resistance of current-carrying conductors and insulation. If the generator is damaged, it will become noticeably hot.
- — the output voltage will differ significantly from the nominal level or be absent.
- Although the electrical circuit includes short circuit protection, it happens that the automation does not work and most often the output transistor burns out.
Technical specifications
Multi-disc clutch, in an oil bath with an automatic release mechanism. The gearbox is four-speed, two-way. Motor transmission is a rollerless double-row chain, gear ratio - 2.57. Transmission from the gearbox to the rear wheel is a roller chain, gear ratio - 2.33. The frame is tubular and welded. The front fork is a telescopic spring type with hydraulic shock absorbers. Rear suspension pendulum spring with hydraulic shock absorbers Type of brakes drum Type of wheels easily removable, with tangential straight spokes. Tire size 3.25-19″
Electronic ignition for the IZH PLANET 5 motorcycle
Generator Izh Planet 5 on permanent magnets, with a contact ignition system that operates independently of the battery, with automatically adjustable ignition timing. Therefore, on Izh Planet 5, electronic ignition can be installed from a VAZ 2108. Installation takes about two evenings. In a nutshell:
1. Manufacturing and installation of a corner
(Fig. 1) for attaching the Hall sensor (the standard contact ignition was not touched!) into the standard threaded holes on the generator platform (photo. 2). Both elements are made of ordinary iron with a thickness of 1.5 mm.
3. Installing the reel under the tank
(photo 3). There is not enough space, but it can be installed. I had to cut out the fastening sleeve.
4. Mounting the Switch
(photo 4). I turned and turned for a long time, and found a place only near the signal, under the tank.
5. Wiring
(photo. 5). Nothing complicated, except for pulling the casing with wires from the Hall sensor under the clutch cover.
6. Connecting all the elements
according to the diagram (Fig. 6).
Set the ignition timing to 3.5 mm before TDC. It is worth considering that the sensor produces a pulse when the modulator exits the gap. Start the engine. If everything went well, then you can safely drive, having a contact ignition system as a backup. Everything went smoothly for me. The start was easy and there were no problems. When the engine was warm, the speed was stable, and the engine responded perfectly to the accelerator handle.
Ignition timing former (FUOZ)
I ask the skeptics to calm down, FUOZ is working and, in all likelihood, will be put into production. There will be one manufacturing option for 1 and 2 cylinder engines. A new feature has been added - individual settings for a specific engine. Those. the characteristic will be set by the driver himself, right on the go. Moreover, the established characteristic will be remembered and used in the future. The algorithm is simple: 1) start the engine; 2) let it reach operating temperature; 3) start moving; 4) having fixed the throttle handle in a certain position, adjust the OZ using the FUOZ potentiometer; 5) press the “remember” button 6) repeat step 4. for other speeds. Because such templates may be a lot, then for a loaded motorcycle you can build another characteristic and switch to it via the menu item. It is possible to switch between m/s templates when the specified temperature is reached, which will also be very useful. This way you will get an almost ideal performance for your engine.
FUOZ is a device for forming the required ignition timing of a motorcycle (and not only a motorcycle) with extended service functions. The device is surface mounted and fits under the LCD (PC1601LRS-FNH-B/PC1601F D). FUOZ is connected to the gap of the Hall sensor (control output of the DC) and 6 con. switch. The OZ schedule is shown in the figure. The graph is taken from a similar device, which is made on an ATMEL microcontroller and runs 100% on IZ Jupiter 5.
If desired, set the characteristic for a specific engine independently, according to the algorithm above. The choice of characteristic is displayed on the LCD. The ideal option, of course, is a knock sensor + throttle position sensor + air flow sensor + temperature sensor + injector
The device can be made without an LCD, for simplicity. In this case, the visibility of the device’s operation is lost, and it is more difficult to adjust some parameters.
The initial SOP is set to about 30 degrees (7 mm before TDC). FUOZ ensures the production of the required delay with high accuracy. At minimum speeds, the pulse delay will be maximum (SOP is 0 degrees), and at high speeds, vice versa (SOP tends to 30 degrees).
The FUOZ diagram for the option with LCD is shown in Fig. 9. The FUOZ is made on a PIC controller MicroChip PIC16F873, operating at a frequency of 4 MHz. The circuit is simple and does not require any explanation; the parts are surface-mounted (except for the LCD).
Here are drawings of a (test!) double-sided surface mount printed circuit board measuring 84x57mm.
All this fits into the dashboard of a motorcycle.
The main menu item displays: engine speed, SOP, on-board network voltage Temperature, octane correction angle Multi-spark mode (Options: On/Off). If “On”, then at revolutions less than 400 it produces three sparks. Indication of overtemperature (Options: Off/100/120/140/160) Indication of overspeed (Options: Off/4000/5000/6000) Backlight (Options: On/Off ) UOZ mode (Options: Pattern #1 / Pattern #2 / Pattern #3) Switching between patterns when the set temperature is exceeded
Motorcycle Features
The IZH Plante 5 motorcycle has the original name IZH 7.107. Just like the IZH 6, it belongs to the middle class of motor vehicles, designed for movement on roads with any surface. The main feature is the use of an oil pump; when refueling there is no need to add oil to the tank, as well as a contactless ignition system that operates independently of the battery.
It became possible to start a motorcycle from a pusher. To do this, you need to turn on the ignition, second gear and, when pushing the bike forward, the engine starts. True, without a battery, operation is possible only during daylight hours.
The Fifth Planet can be equipped with a cargo trailer and a passenger stroller. To reduce the clutch release effort, the bike has a clutch consisting of 7 pairs of discs. Vibration dampers are installed on the cylinder ribs. An important feature of this series is the presence of hydropneumatic suspension with disc brakes, which contributed to a smooth ride. The power is 22 horsepower, the maximum possible speed is 120 km/h. The volume of the two-stroke single-cylinder engine is 346 cm3. The power unit has good traction at low speeds.
Main stage
As noted in the assembly diagram of the Izh-Planet 5 box, further disassembly operations are carried out above the insides of the roof of the unit, since the secondary shaft and sector could remain in it. If it is necessary to remove them, you need to straighten the petals of the lock washer, unscrew the nut, remove the star and washer. Holding the gear very carefully to prevent the shaft from jumping out, the cover is moved to a clean and flat surface with the gear facing up.
It is worth noting that the bearing of this part of the assembly does not have a retaining ring. Therefore, when removing the shaft with bearing, the rollers may fall out, so be careful. If the specified element has exhausted a decent service life, there is a risk that when dismantling the secondary shaft, the outer ring may jump out of the seat and remain on the rollers. Next you need to start pressing out the oil seal. To do this, the installation rings are removed from the hole in the cover, after which the outer ring of the bearing is removed.
Generator
The heart is the generator (sometimes called a magneto, but they were never used on Izh Planet). Three windings produce alternating current. For excitation, an additional coil is used instead of a permanent magnet. Therefore, it is impossible to jump start a motorcycle with a completely dead or missing battery.
A diode bridge for current rectification and a voltage regulator assembled in one unit are mounted on the Izh Planet 5 generator (they are not even highlighted in the Izh Planet wiring diagram manuals).
Possible breakdowns in this unit:
- Breakdown or breakage of coils. It is checked by measuring their resistance of current-carrying conductors and insulation. If the generator is damaged, it will become noticeably hot.
- Failure of the diode bridge - the output voltage will differ significantly from the nominal level or be absent.
- Failure of the voltage regulator. Although the electrical circuit includes short circuit protection, it happens that the automation does not work and most often the output transistor burns out.
In what cases is ignition adjustment necessary?
During the operation of the vehicle, the owner faces many problems. The most serious failure is related to the engine. In order to spend significant funds on major repairs, it is necessary to monitor the technical condition of the motorcycle and carry out preventive work, including adjusting the valves and valves (video author - Hana Rulyu).
If you do not monitor the SZ, then the motorcycle engine may not reveal its full potential and will not work at full capacity. This can lead to a reduction in its service life. An ignition adjustment is necessary if the engine is running poorly, the muffler or carburetor is firing. True, before setting up the SZ, you should make sure that the cause of the malfunction is in it.
It happens that the flywheel bolt, which connects the two halves of the crankshaft, comes loose, begins to play and does not work well. Sometimes he even cuts the key.
Setting up the SZ may be necessary after repairing lock 5. The installation and connection itself are carried out according to the diagram.
SZ diagram of the IZh motorcycle
Army and weapons
I have been repeatedly asked to share my experience in installing a BSZ, a diode bridge and a relay regulator. I did this as much as possible, until they began to insist that I break out in an article where I could explain everything in an accessible way. The whole difficulty lies in the fact that after these installations I long ago moved towards reworking the Izh-Yunker electrical circuit. And today, reproducing exactly how it actually was on a motorcycle is quite problematic, and even more so since the wire connection points and their colors on any electrical circuits differ from the factory ones, including the fact that I encountered the fact that on different motorcycles (Izh - Juncker) the same wires are different in color.. Therefore, I will not tell you the specific color of the wire and tie it to the diagram, but I will name the wires according to their functionality, for example: “this wire goes to the left rear marker,” and you you will have to recognize it in practice, which, by the way, is very useful for experience. I won’t describe the advantages of this or that device or the advantages of this or that method, everyone chooses shoes according to their feet, I’ll just try to present them in a way that is simple and understandable.Required spare parts and materials:
- Relay – regulator 2101, 2106.
- Generator diode bridge (suitable for VAZ and GAZ generators.
- Capacitor for diode bridges (in my opinion, all are the same for VAZ and GAZ)
- 2 spark plugs from GAZ with electronic ignition system.
- 2 short high-voltage silicone wires (I bought them for fifty dollars from some garage cop)
- The ignition coil (VAZ 1111, GAZ with engine 406) is two-terminal, dry.
- Switch (VAZ 2108)
- Hall sensor (VAZ 2108)
- Connection blocks for switch and Hall sensor.
- Heat-shrinkable cambric 8 - 2 meters.
- Set of male-female and ring terminals.
- Installation wire 1.5 square - 2.3 meters.
- In addition to the standard tool, you will need a radio crimp (you can try using pliers).
- Metal scissors.
- Sheet metal 0.8-1 mm thick 10x10 cm (I used regular galvanized steel 0.7 mm, but many recommend transformer steel, in my opinion, the higher the magnetic properties of the metal, the better, for example, case steel gave me a disgusting spark)
- Screws and nuts M3 and M4.
1. This is, of course, dismantling the standard system.
A. For relay regulator:
The battery charge control system includes a standard BPV and what I would call a generator rotor. From the BPV, 2 wires supply voltage to the rotor through the carbon brushes. One brush wire (-) is connected to the top of the BPV and it should be black. The second wire should be red (+) connected on the lower right side of the BPV. Feel free to take them off. Now you have to bend over to the generator. Since the relay-regulator used controls the current on the rotor through (+), I do the following manipulations. Plastic blocks are installed on the generator housing, which allow you to isolate the wire connections from the housing - “b”. We find the connection between the white brush wire and the short wire with the black wire and release the brush wire (we unscrew the nut on M3, if I’m not mistaken, with a key on 5). There is a 3mm terminal mounted on it, I drill it out (ordinarily with the tip of a knife) to 4mm. And now I put this terminal on the mounting screws of the block itself and tighten it,
thereby applying (-) – “a” to the brush. By this action I get 2 advantages, 1 – I free one wire in the harness from the top of the wiring to the generator (it is enclosed in a black cambric), 2 – I reduce the resistance in the rr-rotor circuit, albeit slightly, but I reduce it. In my opinion, with such a generator, every half of a tenth of a volt is relevant, the economy should be economical.
b. For a diode bridge from VAZ, GAZ:
Easier than steamed turnips. On the BPV there are black (some have brown and God knows what other color it might be) wires (-) on the lower left part of the BPV and red (and there may also be one light blue, dark blue, etc.) wires (+) on the middle lower part of the GSV. And three pink ones (can be purple, gray, etc.) on the right side of the GSV. I free the black ones and twist them with any available twist so that they do not crawl into the cracks, and I do the same with the red ones. And I remove the pink ones (they come from the generator from each phase and supply alternating current from each phase, of which there are only three) and leave them as is, anyway they have nowhere to go.
V. For the ignition system:
I hope you've already dropped your tanks. Now you have a complete picture - 2 ignition coils hanging under the frame and a contact group on the generator body. First of all, we say goodbye to spark plugs, high-voltage wires, and spark plug caps with a built-in resistor; they will never be needed again. Moreover, I happily said goodbye to the caps, which tend to burn out while maintaining the appearance intact, and then you worry and look for the reason for the lack of a spark on the candle. Now we have to strain our memory and remember which wires we remove from the reels. The first one should be red with an intermediate terminal - this is the (+) one suitable for the coils. The second and third - pink (purple, etc.) go to both reels. these are the “stop - engine” wires, now pay attention: the fourth is green (light green, i.e. green), goes to the contact group, the fifth is yellow (orange, light red), goes to the contact group, and finally the sixth - another one red one goes to the radiator fan switch on sensor. REMEMBER. and the latter are brown, these are always sitting on (-) or on the ground (you can take an adhesive plaster, cut off pieces, sign with a regular ballpoint pen and stick on each wire). Now we remove the ignition coils, but keep one of the coil clamps and straighten it, it will be useful later. On the generator body, remove the contact group and capacitors. From each contact hammer there is a wire to the above-mentioned block. We unscrew the nuts on the M3 and finally free the contact group, as well as two wires - green (i.e. green, light green) and yellow (orange, light red), these are the same wires that I called on the ignition coils No. 4 and 5. Then I disassembled the contact group, cleared the platform, and later on its base I will mount a Hall Sensor (hereinafter referred to as DH). And finally, about how to prepare the rotor axis for installing the rotor generator. I unscrewed the rotor bolt with an 11-socket Metrinch wrench, these tools even twist broken heads. But if you only have an 11 horn, don't even try to touch the bolt. I recommend using a head with a knob set to 11. We install the head on the bolt, having first engaged 1st gear, and with a sharp blow to the knob we turn off the bolt. If this is not enough, then before doing so, hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. There you just need to squander the grower, just. I use a different method, take a more powerful screwdriver, feel for the “beak” (a metal core similar to a beak) of the rotor in the round hole of the generator stator and use the screwdriver lever to fix the rotor, and with the head I calmly pull off the bolt.
That's all the preparatory work. You can begin installation.
Installation of systems.
A. For relay-regulator:
Everything is simple to the point of banality. I take (+) anywhere after the ignition key. You can put the “mother” terminal on the red wire that went to the ignition coils. However, if you use it, we do it this way: Cut off the ring terminal from the red (+) wire from the ignition coil and add to it another end of the mounting wire, preferably also red, so as not to get confused later, about 35 cm long (1 terminal - 2 ends of the wire), I crimp the terminal, put a piece of heat-shrinkable casing on top of the terminal and heat it with a regular lighter. The casing will fit the terminal and the wire tightly enough and if it ever jumps out, a short circuit will not occur. This terminal will go to the groove size No. 15 “a”.
I take the wire (+) of the brush, it is near the right tank, if you remember, we removed it from the lower right part of the BPV, and in my opinion there is already a “mother” terminal there, if not, then install it. And again, the shrink casing rules. This is the wire for terminal size No. 67 “b”. We take the solution and connect it. Later, when you hang the tanks, screw it to the lower ear (next to the saddle) of the left tank to ground “b”. Under no circumstances should you start the engine without securing the solution to ground (tank fastening), otherwise the solution will either burn out or change the current control parameters. Although I already burned 4-5 of them, forgetting to screw them to ground. By the way, don’t worry about the (-) brush, we’ve already screwed it onto the (-). The voltage should now rise. I can only add that, like all products, the solution may be of low quality and the variation in parameters is significant. It is quite likely that you will come across a leftist, so we do not throw away receipts and change them. Now, when starting the engine, the voltage at the battery terminals should be at least 12.4V (if the stator and rotor are normal, i.e. the generator is working!).
b. For a diode bridge:
We take the “horseshoe” of the bridge in our hands and see round diodes on it. The “horseshoe” itself (hereinafter simply the horseshoe) of the diode bridge consists of two plates, one of them (+) is “e”, the other (-) is “g” and they are insulated from each other, the plate that has insulation on the mounting hole (at the end) is (+). There is a second way to determine which of the plates is positive, but only after assembling the BSZ: we connect the same three pink “a” wires (purple, gray) that come from the generator, hold them in our hands or place them on the insulator, start the engine and measure the voltage between the two plates horseshoes. I hope it’s now clear which of them is (+) (here I got ahead a little; I’ll tell you below how I organized the connection of 3 phases of the generator). Now you need to cut out the metal corner “b”, I cut the ignition coil from the clamp. Drill holes in it for fastening to the upper left frame bracket from under the BPV and directly to the (-) horseshoe plate – “b” (it has a mounting hole at the end of the plate). Now I can prepare to switch on 3 phases of the generator. You will need 3 pieces of mounting wire, 2-5cm each - “a”. I crimp the ring terminal to 4 on one end - “f”, on the other end I crimp the “male” terminal and with these pieces I can connect to the existing wiring. All. We connect the red wires (+) to plate “B”, I already have one wire. And we connect the black and brown ones to ground (-) “b”. The diode bridge is connected.
The first thing I do is cut out a rectangle “a” with dimensions of 6.5x2.5 mm from ordinary galvanized steel (preferably 0.9-1 mm thick), at the point of intersection of the diagonals (center) with a core and drill an 8 mm hole.
I did not buy harnesses, connectors for connecting devices. Therefore, I will use 3 wires freed from the old ignition system and 1 wire from the brush to connect the DH. You can even roughly match the colors of the wires. Those. green to green, black to black, and orange from DH to red - position “c”.
Now I cut everything off the old contact plate and attach the DH to it (not difficult, just 2 m3x15 screws and 4 m3 nuts). Now, if I replace the DH, I pull it out of the block, unscrew it from the plate and replace it. You can immediately install the ignition. I use a regular standard device. Instead of a spark plug, I screw it onto the right boiler and set the advance on it to 2.3mm.
I hang 1 voltmeter probe on the middle contact of the DH - “g”, the 2nd one on ground. I turn on the ignition switch. I turn the curtain on the central bolt clockwise until the voltmeter shows me “0” - “d”. A more accurate position is not just “0”, but the moment when “0” appears. All that remains is to tighten the bolt, but do not pull out the voltmeter yet. I tighten it in this way: I feel with the tip of a screwdriver through the hole in the stator for the “beak” of the rotor – “b”, I push it and, holding the curtain with my finger, I tighten the bolt (remember school gymnastics).
Tightened it up. But anyway, while I was tightening it, I shifted the position of the curtain. This means I turn on the ignition again, loosen the screws securing the plate with the DH and begin turning it counterclockwise until “0” appears. That's it, the ignition is turned to zero!
Let's go upstairs. The switch installs very well on the receiver box. I drill in place, 2 auto-tapping screws and screw the switch to the receiver - “a”. Here he is dry and not hot. And the switch radiator is screwed to the hardware, additional cooling. And under one of the screws I attach a pre-prepared wiring, which has a ring terminal on one side and a male terminal on the other. This will be (-) for the switch.
Now the ignition coil.
We take the clamp from the old coil “a”, straighten it, mark the mounting holes in the place of the new coil, and secure it “b”. We bend the remaining wings to the angle of the previous fastening on the frame and fasten them to the frame “g”.
The main components have been installed. Well, install the spark plugs and high-voltage wires yourself.
Now we move on to connecting the wires into the harnesses. We extend the red wire with the intermediate terminal (+) with wires, 1 piece with the “female” terminal for the coil, 2 pieces with the “female” terminal for the rr, pull the 3rd piece to the positive wire of the switch, contact No. 4. Negative wire from under the screw to No. 2. Separately, we make a wire from the switch, contact No. 1, to the coil, crimp the “mother” terminal on one end, the other will be used for twisting and heat-shrinkable casing. There are 3 wires left from the DC. We look at the harness that goes from below, and remember: green on No. 5, orange on No. 3 and black on No. 6 and make twists under the heat-shrinkable casing according to the diagram. Then I simply assembled the whole thing into corrugated hoses “a”.
So what are you waiting for? Let's start!
If suddenly, when closing the chrome cover of the right side of the crankcase, the engine stalls, then simply swap the (+) and (-) brushes. Please note that the generator brushes are rectangular in cross-section!
PS Off topic, but I’ll add: very often many people make mistakes about the ovality of stars. To begin with, I suggest you make sure of the more likely case: is your input shaft bent? We look at the center “a” of the sprocket and start the engine. The center should be in place, and the star should not write a circle.
By the way, when I adjust a semi-automatic machine, I simply orient the fork of the semi-automatic machine exclusively towards this point. And the entire adjustment procedure is simplified.
For those who are interested, I can add an integrated circuit diagram. It will be easy to implement together with a diode bridge. Advantages: finer settings for excitation current to the rotor and, as a result, a more even characteristic of voltage and current in the on-board electrical circuit. Cons: drag an additional wire from the bridge to the solution or to the brush, depending on where the solution is located and the need to insulate the solution.
I am attaching diagrams of the standard electrical circuit and modifications:
List of required parts:
1. Diode bridge generator BPV 56-65-02-G (“with one wire”) or BPV 56-65-01 (“with two wires”).
2. Voltage regulator Y212A11.
3. 100 ohm resistor with a power of 1 Watt. (Not required)
Diode bridge BPV56-65-02-G
Note
: the difference between BPV 56-65-02-G and BPV 56-65-01 is that the first has a male connector made in the housing (and we will have to break it out and solder a wire instead), while the second diode bridge has it made in the form of an additional wire.
Voltage regulator YA212A11
Installing a horseshoe on a generator:
We take the generator and remove everything unnecessary from it:
Next we need to cut out a place to become a horseshoe, leaving an uncut part in the middle for the rigidity of the structure:
Then we need to extend the stator wires. It is not necessary to remove the stator from the generator housing, it will just be more convenient to solder, and it will be convenient to carefully insulate it.
Now you need to cut off the excess from the horseshoe so that it fits normally into the cut out generator housing and when the right cover is installed there is no short piece of the top plate with the inner wall of the cover. Break off the terminal (male connector) that sticks down. Also replace the inner plate (to which small diodes are soldered) with a wire, in case there is also no shorty with the generator body:
Next, you need to attach the horseshoe to the generator. To do this, we drill holes for the bolts on the horseshoe opposite the threaded holes on the generator, and make a larger hole in the top plate so that the head of the bolt can fit through. So that when we clamp the bolt, it does not touch the top plate (Don’t forget that this is + and it should not short-circuit with mass anywhere!):
And at the same time, do not forget to place an asbestos gasket under the diode bridge so that the diodes do not heat up from the generator, since they do not like overheating.
Now that we have secured the horseshoe, we can solder three pre-extended wires from the generator in these places, no matter in what order:
The first thing we need to do is cut off the lower collar on the regulator (the figure below circles what needs to be cut) so that the brushes are hidden as much as possible in the regulator body and so that they are normally pressed against the armature current collectors. If this is not done, then they may break off or they will have difficulty reaching the anchor:
You will have to cut just to the bottom hole, and make a new one a little higher. And the thing is that there is a mass of regulator going to the lower hole at the back, so you will need to carefully bend it:
Next we need to make J-shaped mounts to which the regulator will be screwed:
You also need to cut off the corner of the plate on the regulator so that it does not touch the generator housing:
So, there is nothing special about the connection... The top plate turns out to be the output +
, that is, from which charging is already taking place.
We drill a hole in it on the left side and screw the wire, we connect it directly to the battery, soldering it to the wire that goes to the +
battery.
The bottom plate, accordingly, is
(mass), and, in fact, we already have it bolted to the generator.
We insert the red wire with the connector into the regulator, and also do not forget to connect the ground of the regulator. And in the place where the red wire is soldered, we solder another wire ( if you have a BPV 56-65-01 , then there is no need to solder the wire, since it is already soldered
), it goes to the generator control lamp, also parallel to the lamp you need to solder in a shunt resistor (it is primarily intended if the lamp suddenly burns out, so that charging does not disappear)
100 ohms
with a power of 1 watt, in principle this is not necessary, for the first time you can do without it, the main thing is that the lamp has more watts. We connect the other wire from the lamp to the ignition switch. Well, at the top I wrote where the generator phases are soldered to the horseshoe. All. That's all the connection is.
Didn't find what you were looking for? Use the search:
Best sayings:
For students, there are even, odd and test weeks.
9438 — | 7438 - or read all.
91.146.8.87 © studopedia.ru Not the author of the materials posted. But it provides free use. Is there a copyright violation? Write to us | Feedback.
Disable adBlock! and refresh the page (F5)
very necessary
I have in my garage my “Old Friend” IZH Yu-5, which was given to me when I graduated from school! The only owner of which is only me. I haven’t driven it for a long time, more than 10 years, and it wouldn’t start, there was no charging, constant problems with the cams and dead ignition coils, and of course the right pot! It's time to revive your comrade! It was decided to install the BSZ, do normal charging with car elements and replace the wiring! I go to the store and buy parts:
1. Relay - regulator 2101, 2106. 2. Generator diode bridge (suitable for VAZ and GAZ generators. 3. Capacitor for diode bridges (in my opinion, they are all the same for VAZ and GAZ) 4. 2 spark plugs from GAZ with an electronic ignition system. 5 . 2 short high-voltage silicone wires (I bought it for fifty dollars in some garage cop) 6. Ignition coil (VAZ 1111, GAZ with engine 406) two-terminal, dry 7. Switch (VAZ 2108) 8. Hall sensor (VAZ 2108) 9. Connecting blocks for the switch and the Hall sensor 10. Emergency ignition (just in case) 11. Terminals, wires, electrical tape and nut - I think everyone has them in the garage 12. I ordered a modulator plate and a hall sensor mounting plate on the Internet to sharpen myself it was a mess))
Installing the BSZ 1. Remove the breaker contacts, coil, capacitor and all other crap from the contact ignition. 2. We put the switch in the right glove compartment, the coil under the tank. 3. Unscrew the generator bolt. 4. Install the modulator. 5.Attach the Hall sensor. 5.1. We fasten the modulator, but do not tighten it! 6.We connect everything according to the following scheme. Save to Album Diagram 1 Diagram 1
7. We put the armor wire on the spark plug and connect it to the coil. Everything is done according to the first scheme, everything is done in an elementary way and in terms of time you can do it in an hour with smoke breaks. 8. Connect the ignition coil. Save to Album 2 color scheme 2 color scheme
The ignition is set simply: the piston is at TDC further 3.5 mm back and for the convenience of finding the moment of the spark, an instant diagnostic unit “MD-1” was purchased
Next, we are engaged in charging 1. We throw out all the elements of the old charging system 2. Brushes. Since the relay-regulator used controls the current on the rotor through (+), you need to do the following. Plastic blocks are installed on the generator housing, which allow you to isolate the wire connections from the housing. We find the connection between the white brush wire and the short wire with the black wire and release the brush wire (unscrew the nut on M3). There is a 3mm terminal mounted on it, we drill it out to 4mm. And now we put this terminal on the mounting screws of the block itself and tighten it, thereby applying it to the brush (-). 3. Diode bridge. On the BPV, black wires (-) go to the lower left part of the BPV and red wires (+) to the middle lower part of the BPV. And three pink ones on the right side of the GSV. We release the black ones and twist them, and we do the same with the red ones. And we remove the pink ones (they come from the generator from each phase and supply alternating current from each phase, of which there are only three) and leave them as is. The diode bridge consists of two plates, one of them is (+), the other (-) and they are insulated from each other, the plate that has insulation on the mounting hole (at the end) is (+). We connect the red wires (+) to plate. And we connect the black and brown ones to ground (-). The diode bridge is connected. 4. Relay regulator. Take (+) anywhere after the ignition key. This terminal will go to the groove size No. 15. We take the wire (+) of the brush, it was removed from the lower right part of the BPV, this is the wire for terminal size No. 67. We take the solution and connect it. Next, we screw the solution to ground; you can’t start it without this, otherwise it will burn out! 5. To make sure the charging light on the dashboard goes out, run it through the relay.
General recommendations
The carburetor must be in good working order. If there is any abnormality in its system operation, it is necessary to carry out system maintenance.
If necessary, the system will need to be thoroughly cleaned. All consumables are replaced with new seals. The air filter must be clean. If necessary, it must be washed. In some cases it will need to be completely replaced.
When adjusting the carburetor, the engine must be warm. To do this, you can drive several kilometers along the highway. Only after this can you begin the procedure described below.
