Ural motorcycle wheels. Ural wheel size

Motorcycle tires for Ural M 66 1975

This page contains technical information about the Ural M 66 1975 motorcycle. Based on the characteristics of the wheel sizes, motorcycle tires produced by Petroshin were selected, which can be installed on the front and rear wheels, depending on the size.
Among others, the following tire models are suitable for the Ural M 66 1975 motorcycle: Technical characteristics of the motorcycle

:

For front wheel

size - 3.75-19 tires are suitable:

For rear wheel

size - 3.75-19 tires are suitable:

Other options for selecting motorcycle tires produced by Petroshin for motorcycles in the configurator

Source

MY MOTORCYCLE

“It’s better to buy one pair of good shoes than three pairs of bad ones.” Marlene Dietrich Marlene Dietrich

Now on the market there are a lot of options for tires in Ural sizes to suit any budget from brands such as Mitas, Pirelli, Metzeller and others. But they don't work well on a wheelchair. Why?.. Let's share our experience.

Choosing tires for a motorcycle is an extremely responsible matter! But many approach this casually: “Why bother with the Ural? The size fits, the manufacturer is reputable - well, great!” As a result, the tire behaves unstably on the asphalt, wears out in a couple of thousand, or even simply falls apart, does not support the weight of the motorcycle and sinks into the ground. When choosing tires, one size is not enough. It is necessary to take into account the conditions in which it will be used and the weight of the motorcycle. The stroller does not tilt when driving, so you need tires with a square profile, similar to automobile ones. It has a larger grip patch, which is important for a heavy vehicle, and it wears out evenly, and not just along the narrow central stripe. Another important factor is the tire load index. For a wheelchair user, experts recommend 70 or more, but categorically no less than 67. If the index is lower, then even new tires can fall apart on the move simply from overload.

The modern Ural plant is equipped with Duro HF308 (4.00-19) tires. They come from Taiwan, although they have a proud Spanish name (translated as “solid”, “reliable”). Vasily “PZ” described it as follows: “The tire is universal - it rides mediocre both on asphalt and on dirt, but not at all on mud.” Its profile is round and on a motorcycle with a sidecar it only works with the central part, but it lasts for quite a long time due to the fact that it is quite rigid (I have ridden about 9000 km on the rear wheel). But in the cold it stiffens and completely loses contact with the road. Its advantage is its carrying capacity. There are few tires of this size with a load index of 72P (up to 355 kg and up to 150 km/h). And relatively inexpensive. Apparently, for the plant there is a compromise option in the price/quality ratio (RUB 4,500*).

It is recommended to cut off these technological “spikes” on new tires!

St. Petersburg makes a wide range of different (from asphalt to motocross) and inexpensive tires. For the project, we settled on two options suitable specifically for the Ural with a sidecar - universal and off-road.

The first is the L-333 model (4.10-19) with a load index of 70L (up to 335 kg and up to 120 km/h). Its profile is close to square and the contact patch is noticeably larger than that of Duro. Moreover, it is soft, which is why it holds the road much better, and does not stiffen in the cold. A pronounced (but not “evil”) tread with sipes (thin slots) on checkers works great on any hard surface, in any weather and season, and even on an icy road (tested in both summer and winter in the Arctic and Norway). It studs well even with a cargo stud. L-333 is good for roads with any surface and not bad for off-road. And for winter travel there is no alternative. The only negative is that it wears out quite quickly (I covered about 7,000 km on the rear wheel, of which 20% was off-road).

For mud, the best option is “Petroshin” S-97 (4.25-19, index 71K) and L-96 (3.75-19, index 68R). “Ninety-seventh” was made specifically for the “Ural”. According to the factory classification, this is not a cross-country tire, but for difficult road conditions - it has more blocks that are extended along the wheel, and the sidecar profile is close to square, and under load it holds onto the road with all the blocks. Due to its softness, it is not very durable, but it does not stiffen in the cold and, if necessary, allows you to get to the dirt on the asphalt under your own power without much shaking. If your task is not to set a lap record, but to drag a heavy motorcycle on a bad road, mud or snow, then it is great. But it is better to use it on rowing wheels - rear and stroller. On the front wheel, due to the square profile, it turns hard and is difficult to get out of ruts. For this purpose, there is the L-96 tire with a purely cross-country round profile. It is noticeably narrower, and in addition to the main checkers, additional “fingers” stick out to the side, which help to cling to the edges of the track when you need to get out of it. The experience of winter events such as “Connecting Bear” and “Samovar-Treffen” shows that so far no better ratio has been invented. In addition, they stud perfectly. The price of each specified Petroshin model is 3,500 rubles.

From left to right: Duro HF308, “Petroshina” L-333 (studless and studded), “Petroshina” S-97 (studless and studded), Heidenau K37.

For people with tight wallets, there is also Heidenau K37 (4.00-19 71R). A well-known German tire manufacturer produces it specifically for the Ural with a sidecar at the behest of the largest distributor IMZ in Europe. Universal, but somewhat closer to enduronic. Square, with a good contact patch. It has three longitudinal rows of large checkers with wide grooves. According to the experience of the guys from TruMotor, it drives well on asphalt, on rocks and soil, and not bad in mud. Although it is quite rigid, and therefore more durable (according to the experience of Moscow uralists, it runs up to 12,000 km on the rear wheel). But due to its harshness, it becomes dull in winter. Therefore, Heidenau made its winter “replica” - K37 Silica, which contains a large proportion of silicon. If we talk about versatility, then it has no competitors. But the price is steep - 11,500 rubles.

* Tire prices in .

SHIPOVKA

If you are going to drive in winter, then studding your tires is a must! On icy ruts, frozen rivers and other ice, this is difficult to overestimate. Experience shows that on a motorcycle without a drive, but with studs, you are guaranteed to go further than on a motorcycle with a drive, but without studs. If you wish, you can drive to the same “Shatun” under your own power and get on the track without changing tires. For winter rides on hard surfaces, it is not necessary to stud the stroller. But if you go somewhere that is not cleaned, then all three wheels should be studded.

From left to right: 1, 2, 3 – passenger autospike 8 mm; 4 – cargo autospike 9 mm; 5 – rally autospike 8 mm; 6 – rally autospike 9 mm; 7, 8, 9 – motocross 9 mm (spike base diameter).

With this problem, we turned to Alexey “Tweezers,” a cheerful endurist and specialist in studding motor tires. During the work, he explained some of the subtleties.

There are two stud options for a motorcycle: a motocross stud and a road stud. The body of the spike is made of steel, and the core, part of which protrudes from the body, is made of hard alloy. Cross - purely sporty, tall. The length of the core over the rubber is from 7 to 10 mm. But, of course, they are not suitable for asphalt - there is no grip on the surface; they are for pure ice, trampled snow, icy ruts and other off-road delights. Therefore, for winter driving with a predominance of public roads, they install a car, passenger or truck stud (the latter is stronger and thicker, usually it is placed in the drive wheel). It makes it possible to drive comfortably and safely in winter, both on and off asphalt (without fanaticism, of course!). Such a tire works in the contact patch with both the stud and the rubber, which provides sufficient grip on the road both on clean asphalt and on icy areas. The spike is selected individually, depending on the size of the checkers. There are a lot of options, but the most suitable size for motorcycle tires is: 6-20 mm body height (landing), 8-9 mm its diameter, 1-1.5 mm visible part of the carbide core. For my Petroshina, the best option turned out to be a passenger stud with a body diameter of 8 mm and a core of 1 mm, but for L-96 and L-333 - with a fit of 7 mm, and for S-97 - with a fit of 12 mm. Unlike cross spikes, a regular tenon can be planted without glue - there is no heavy load on it, since the protruding part does not exceed 2 mm.

They are installed with a special pneumatic gun. If you don’t mind your fingers, you can hammer it in yourself using a drill, sledgehammer, mandrel and “such-and-such a mother,” but it’s better to turn to a specialist.

“Some, out of poverty, tenon with construction dowels, while others screw in self-tapping screws,” says Alexey. - Yes, they work, but all this is for two or three trips, and then throw away the tires. For both, the sharp end quickly wears off and stops working. There are also screw-in studs with a hex head, but this is complete bullshit and only ruins the rubber. And, of course, all these options are absolutely not suitable for asphalt.”

Issue: MOTO Magazine - October 2015

Author: Andrey “Kotofey” KOCHETOV, photo by the author

Wheels for motorcycle Ural

The components of a wheel are a tire (with rim band and tube), rim, spokes and hubs. The wheels of the Ural motorcycle use tires measuring 3.74 X 192” (95 X 484 mm). Parameter 3.74 indicates the width of the tire, parameter 19 inches indicates the rim diameter. For motorcycles, a rolled steel rim is used from tape, and then a welded rim. To install nipples and spokes, special holes are made in it.

Spokes are needed to transmit radial load, torque and braking moments

. To do this, the arrangement of the spokes is tangential, at an angle to the radius.

The motorcycle hub is a prefabricated steel hub. It consists of the hub itself and a stamped brake drum riveted to it.

The brake drum is machined to ensure the required size and reduce radial runout. On the left side, the hub is sealed with an oil seal, which is installed in the nut. This is done in order to prevent lubricant from leaking out, as well as moisture and dust getting inside the hub. Since the right side of the hub is less susceptible to contamination (it faces the main gear or brake drum), the oil seal is not installed.

The wheel rotates on two tapered angular contact bearings, which are recommended to be lubricated with LITOL-24. These bearings require careful adjustment. Their advantage is that they have greater load-bearing capacity.

Before using the motorcycle, it is recommended to determine the condition of the wheels. The wheel is inspected for cracks and dents on the rim.

. It is also determined whether the inner surface of the brake drum is worn out, the condition of the bearings located in the wheel hub, the presence of spokes in the wheel, the radial and axial runout of the rim and tire and the uniformity of the tension of the spokes are also checked.

Source

Tire size

Today I asked myself a little question about tire sizes, and this is what I came up with: Ural Wolf motorcycle, front tire 90/90-18, rear tire 130/90-16. We count: 90 and 130 mm - tire width, 90 and 90 - tire profile height as a percentage of the width (81 and 117 mm), 18 and 16 - seat diameter in inches (457.2 and 406.4 mm). We add it up and get: front tire: 81 mm + 81 mm + 457.2 mm = 619.2 mm rear tire: 117 mm + 117 mm + 406.4 mm = 640.4 mm. Thus, it turned out that the outer diameter of the rear tire is larger than the front. Is this really true or have I made a mistake somewhere?

The front seems to be 100\90 - 18.

Visually and subjectively - the same.

You can hardly see a difference of 2 cm on the wheels standing in front and behind, and even covered with wings. The difference in the height of the axes is 1 cm. Why do you need all this? Purely aesthetics, or is there a secret practical meaning?

visually you can see that the rear is higher than the front, you’re right

umod47, just thoughts about aesthetics, because... I’m still working on iron, I won’t get to the wheels soon. In the future, I want to try to pick up something like a standard 19″ front wheel, and 18″ or 16″ for the rear, but with equal outer diameters. In this case, the same wheel will go to the cradle and to the spare tire, so if necessary, you can put the spare tire forward.

In theory, the interchangeability of wheels is ensured only if they all have the same hubs, and, in an amicable way, also the same wheel size. If you're working on hardware, make it better to have a brake disc on the front (or better yet, two) and install a tubeless wheel. Yes, you will lose the opportunity to put a drum spare there, but you will get the most effective brakes. And in the event of a breakdown, a tubeless tire allows you to make it to the tire shop or fix it right in the open field with a harness. Plus, 16- and 18-inch wheels can only be made with the same diameter if they have different widths. Or one of them (guess which one) will have to be made very low-profile, which is not gut.

That's why I sit and count. First the calculations, then everything else.

Source

Rubber

Okay, I’ll tell you my vision of this tire. Firstly .. At Petroshin they probably changed the composition of the rubber as well as the structure of the frame of road tires for the Urals. This is the main difference between Petroshina’s products and those made at Uralshin and Omskshina. Yes, this probably added to the ride comfort, but these tires wear out suspiciously quickly. And well, that would be the only drawback. I personally noticed that when driving with a sidecar at high speed on asphalt, during a smooth right turn, the motorcycle suddenly begins to change trajectory. The most unpleasant thing is that in this situation the change in trajectory occurs towards the inside of the turn and it seems that the stroller is about to lift up. Such unpredictable behavior scares even those who have traveled many thousands of kilometers with a stroller. This is called tire sidetracking. This effect is especially obvious at slow speeds when turning sharply to the right; the tire sidewall folds almost completely. All this is due to the softer sidewall. There is no such effect on stock tires from Uralshina. To be fair, I will say that just before the closure of motorcycle tire production, Uralshina made an export version of the S-93 motorcycle tire with a large and beautiful inscription on the sidewall “Uralshina” and parameter inscriptions in English. These tires have the same side slip effect. (I put it on my front wheel)

Second.. It is for L-333 that this tire has a parameter of 4.10. This value allows you to fit tires on a wider rim than the standard one. I have seen these tires many times, the middle of which is ground down to zero, and there is still a lot of tread on the sides. A friend of mine once got confused with this, did the calculations and made a rim exactly for the width of the given tire. He cut the rim on a lathe and welded in the insert. Unfortunately I don’t remember the exact numbers. That's when the entire tread began to work. Lateral withdrawals also disappeared.

Yes, this tire has a universal tread pattern. It will work on muddy dirt roads, wet grass and compacted snow. And on wider rims there will be a little more benefit from the tread. Sometimes that “little bit” makes a difference!

But it’s not very suitable for brushing asphalt.

The best tires specifically for a motorcycle with a sidecar were made at Uralshin and Omskshina. This is both my opinion and the opinion of former plant testers. In those days, tires were made specifically for a motorcycle with a sidecar!

Personally, I really like the S-93. You can’t get into some kind of swamp with a powered motorcycle, but you can drive along a muddy forest road in sneakers and not push the motorcycle, I checked it several times in the summer.

ps If you always ride on asphalt and in dry weather in the forest, then this is DURO HF308 (resource) or Kenda K272 (price) But the best and most versatile tires for a motorcycle with a sidecar are Heidenau K37

Tires for the Ural motorcycle

Classic Ural models are equipped with tires with tubes measuring 3.75x19 inches. However, motorcycles with and "Wolf") have different tires. So that tires do not have to be changed quickly, they need to be looked after. Maintenance consists of checking the pressure and regularly inspecting the surface for punctures and abrasions. The manufacturer advises maintaining pressure:

Motorcycle "Ural"

• In the front wheel there is 1.6 atmospheres.
• In the rear wheel - 2.1 atmospheres.
• In the wheel of a motorized stroller there is 1.8 atmospheres.

You should adhere to these indicators and this will increase the service life of the rubber. In order for the tires to wear out evenly, it is necessary to change the tires every 2,500 km of the motorcycle ride, as indicated in the instructions for the vehicle.

This was usually done in an era of shortages - today a motorcyclist can easily do without it, since buying the necessary tires is not a problem these days. For motorcycles used in rural areas, special rubber is created with an aggressive tread pattern and thick studs.

How to choose the right mud tires

It should be noted that motorbike tires have design features. Tires can be radial or bias-ply. In the second, the fibers are not located at right angles to the profile pattern in the center. These tires are suitable for bikes used on long trips.

On a note!

In radial wheels, the fibers run perpendicular to the center of the profile pattern. To increase the rigidity of the tire, a solid nylon belt is used. It is located under the profile covering.

Radial motorcycle tires have an “R” marking on the cord, diagonal tires have a “-” mark, and diagonal tires with a reinforced belt have a “B” marking. In addition, the disk size is indicated on the cord. The R17 says it's a 17-inch radial. To clarify the speed limit, tables are used. In them, a certain speed limit receives a separate letter.

You might be interested in what tire pressure should be on a UAZ

Reinforced tires with a tube are marked “TT”, while tires without a tube are marked “TL”. To have an idea of ​​the speed, you should make out the inscription on the cord, for example, 150/70 B17 69N TL:

• "TL" means the tire is tubeless. “B” is a diagonal product with a reinforced belt.
• 17 – size.
• The number 150 indicates the width of the tire.
• 70 – ratio of width to height of the profile pattern.
• 69 – maximum load.
• “H” is the maximum speed limit, which in this situation is 120 km/h.

Mud tires for the Ural motorcycle are marked “M/T”. Mud tires for motorcycles are universal.

Motorcycle tire marking

An experienced motorcyclist on such wheels will be able to travel almost anywhere, including:

• clean road;
• damp road surface;
• mud porridge;
• off-road.

Mud Terrain (M/T) class tires have a hard and rough tread. With mud tires you can not be afraid of off-road conditions, and even take part in races. Riding a motorcycle with mud tires requires experience. But you should not use them in cold weather, since a sudden start or the desire to perform a maneuver and quickly brake will lead to a skid.

Note!

Extreme tires are among the best for off-road driving. These tires perform well on soft ground and when driving through muddy porridge and puddles.

How to put a car tire on a motorbike

The first thing you need to decide is which tire to install. If the choice falls towards a rather narrow tire, for example, from a Zaporozhets, then you will not need to expand the frame.

A wide wheel on the Ural requires complete disassembly of the frame into component elements and reassembly after welding of the most ideal solution. It is necessary to cook at a high electric current to guarantee a high-quality result.

To ensure that the wheels are positioned evenly, it is necessary to use clamps when welding. The ends of the pipes must be divided into two parts at the required angle, and when welding, insert elements from a thin tube must be laid.

Tire on a motorcycle

There is another option to convert a car wheel onto a motorbike by moving the cardan and using a gearbox. It can be built from plates (steel 10 mm), installing 4 housings for 304 bearings in it. Next, you need to make steel shafts from 12ХНЗА metal, making an allowance of 0.3 mm. Everything should be cleaned, sanded in the central part, and sprockets from the VAZ timing belt should be arranged.

It is important that the sprockets sit on their original keys and are supported on both sides by stop washers. Next you need to do the following:

• Create an oil seal housing for the crosspiece fork.
• Make a housing for the damper fork.
• Improve the damper fork by pressing the holder and grinding it in the central part to the required size.

Next, you need to take a chain from a VAZ car and make it shorter by measuring the actual size. It would be correct to install a locking mechanism on the chain.

Then you need to secure the gearbox to the plate so that the mounting area is quite rigid. If this is not done, it may tear off. If the gearbox is installed on a pendulum frame, it is important to ensure that its axis is symmetrical with the axis of the secondary shaft. For these manipulations, you can put a wide tire on the motorbike. If you can’t install it yourself, the right thing to do is contact a service station.

Rubber for the Ural today is available in large quantities for free sale. The main thing is not to buy a fake; you should always ask for certificates. High-quality tires are durable and wear-resistant, guaranteeing safety when driving a motorbike. Good wheels will ensure maneuverability and controllability, eliminating skidding and injuries on the road.

Source

Motorcycle Ural and Dnepr - Wheels of the Ural motorcycle

At IMZ, the Ural motorcycle is equipped with four identical wheels. Three of them are working, one is a spare one.

The wheel consists of a tire (with a tube and rim tape), a rim, spokes and a hub (Fig. 1). The wheels of Ural road motorcycles use I-40 model tires measuring 3.75 X 19" (95×484 mm). Size 3.75" indicates the width of the tire, size 19" is the mounting diameter of the rim. If necessary, you can use covers 3.25 X 19", 3.0 X 19", however the latter can only be installed on the sidecar wheel of a Ural motorcycle. When using a 3.0 X 19" tire with a linear tread pattern on the sidecar wheel, the sidecar wheel guard becomes less clogged with dirt and the motorcycle's mud patency improves. Motorcycles use a rolled steel rim from tape and then a welded rim. It has holes for installing nipples and spokes.

The spokes are made of special wire with knurled threads and transmit not only radial load, but also torque. To increase the permissible torque value, the spokes are located at an angle to the radius - tangentially.

Ural motorcycle wheel hub, steel assembly. It consists of the hub itself and a stamped brake drum riveted to it. After the hub is assembled, the brake drum is machined to ensure the required size and to reduce radial runout. To prevent lubricant from leaking out, dust and moisture getting inside the hub on the left side, it is sealed with an oil seal installed in the nut. The right side of the hub faces the brake drum or final drive, so it is less susceptible to contamination and there is no need to install an oil seal. The wheel rotates on two tapered angular contact bearings, which are lubricated with LITOL-24 lubricant. Such bearings have a high load-bearing capacity, but require proper adjustment. If the bearings are not tightened enough and have increased play, then shock loads appear during operation, as a result of which the bearing raceways quickly become chipped and the spokes break off. If the bearings are “overtightened”, then due to increased friction they will overheat, the lubricant will leak out, which will lead to their rapid failure.

As the wheel moves, friction between the tube and the tire occurs due to tire deformation. To reduce the friction force when assembling the tire, talc is poured inside the tire. It is extremely undesirable for foreign objects (for example, peeled carcass threads) to get inside the tire, which contribute to wear of the inner tube of the Ural motorcycle.

How to decipher the markings of motorcycle tires?

Any motor tire has a lot of information on the sidewall about its properties, purpose and, of course, size. We will need to figure it out and then compare the readings with the table. You can learn more about the labeling of motorcycle tires from our previous article.

As a rule, the main marking on the side of the tire looks like this: 120/80 R16 59S. This is the so-called metric marking. Let's look at it in more detail:

• 120 – profile width from edge to edge of the tread, expressed in millimeters.
• 80 – profile height, expressed as a percentage.
• R – radial type of design.
• 16 – diameter of the landing area. This indicator must correspond to the same diameter of the wheel rim on which the tire will be put on.
• 59 is the load index, or the maximum weight that a tire can withstand without loss of performance. We look for it in the table:

S is an index of the speed at which a bike can move without losing stability, grip and other useful characteristics of the tire. The value is also in a special table:

The models in the top are arranged according to price/quality ratio. In the process of writing it, we relied on reviews from amateur bikers, professional tests, and were also guided by our own subjective opinion and many years of experience working with tires.

This method of marking tires is followed by most manufacturers, but there are also those who prefer alternative types, where sizes are indicated in inches. For example, this one is 3.25H-19. Everything is simple here: 3.25 is the width of the tire, expressed in inches, H is the speed index, 19 is the bore diameter. Sometimes the inch designation can be used instead of the usual millimeter designation, for example, like this: 4.60/80 R16. There is a rather rare alpha system, created primarily for sports tourists. For example, this type MM90S-16, where: MM – profile width in inches (3.75), 90 – profile height in percentage; S – speed index, 16 – tire rim diameter.

To make it easier for you to determine what an inch standard size corresponds to in the metric system and vice versa, we have prepared a comparison table for you.

WHEELS AND TIRES OF MOTORCYCLES “URAL”, “DNEPR”

WHEELS AND TIRES OF MOTORCYCLES “URAL”, “DNEPR”

The wheels of the Ural and Dnepr motorcycles are interchangeable. In Fig. 5.12 and 5 13 show disassembled wheels of the Dnepr and Ural motorcycles.

Wheels are repaired if there are cracks in the rim, if the brake drum and bearing bore are worn. Wheel maintenance comes down to timely washing and lubrication of bearings, adjusting them, monitoring spoke tension, monitoring and maintaining tire pressure. The knitting needles should be tensioned evenly and fairly tightly. The degree of tension of the spokes is determined by the sound. A sign of weak tension is a low sound tone.

The condition of the bearings in the wheel hub is checked by rotating the tightened axle and rocking it in the wheel. The axle should rotate easily without noticeable play, clicks or jams. When the wheel rotates, radial and lateral runout is permissible: for the wheel rim - no more than 2 mm; for a tire, the lateral runout is no more than 3mm, the radial runout is no more than 5mm.

Rice. 5.12. Motorcycle wheel “Dnepr11” with tire: 1 — wheel assembly, 2 — nipple, 3 — spoke; 4 - wheel housing; 5 — washer, 6 — right bushing, 7 — bearing; 8 — bushing; 9 — left bushing, 10 — nut, 11 — oil seal assembly; 12 - nut; 13 - reflector; 14 — cotter pin, 15 — nut, 16 — rear wheel axle; 17 — front wheel axle; 18 - rim; 19 — tire

Rice. 5.13. Wheel of motorcycles of the "Ural" series: 1 - wheel body with a steel hub and brake drum; 2 - thrust washer; 3,4 - right and left spacers; 5 — hub nut assembled with oil seal; 6 — spring and oil seal; 7 - nut; 8 — rim; 9,10 - axle of rear and front wheels; 11 — axle nut; 12 - nipple; 13 — knitting needles; 14 - wheel without tire

• WHAT ARE THE SIZES OF RIM AND TIRE?

The system for designating wheel and tire sizes in inches is still used today. The first number indicates the width of the tire profile when inflated (for the rim, the width). The second number shows the clear diameter of the tire (rim diameter).

The sizes of motorcycle tires are shown in the table.

• HOW TO INSTALL A NEW WHEEL RIM ON AN M67 MOTORCYCLE?

The main difficulty when installing a new rim is the correct installation of the spokes. The work should be done on a workbench. First you need to insert the spokes into the holes of the hub on one side. Then take two adjacent knitting needles and point the right one to the left and the left one to the right so that the knitting needles intersect. After this, insert the ends of the spokes into the first and eleventh holes of the rim (there should be nine free holes between the spokes). Now you need to insert the remaining spokes of this side of the hub into every fourth hole of the rim as shown in Fig. 5.14. There should be three free holes between the spokes of the same direction. Secure the inserted knitting needles with nipples, turning them halfway.

In order to install the spokes on the other side of the hub, you need to lift the rim and press firmly on the hub, recessing it as much as the spokes will allow. Then turn the wheel over and insert the spokes into every fourth hole as in the previous case, tighten the nipples.

Rice. 5.14. Assembling a Ural motorcycle wheel

HOW TO FACILITATE THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY PROCESS?

When replacing spokes, rim or hub, a simple device helps to assemble the wheel (Fig. 5.15, 5.16). The wheel needs to be placed on it, having first slightly adjusted it. Insert wheel hub 8 into the central hole and insert rear wheel axle 9 into it. Place washer 6 on the axle and secure with nut 5. Tighten wheel rim 2 with clamps 1 and tighten all spokes evenly, starting with the short ones. Assembly accuracy will be guaranteed, and little time is required.

Rice. 5.15. Device for assembling a wheel. Remove the clamps Fig. 5.16. The wheel is installed in the device: 1 - clamp; 2 rim; 3 - spoke; 4 — hub; 5 - nut; 6 — washer; 7 - centering protrusion; 8 — bushing; 9 - axis; 10 - bolt; 11 - nut

content .. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 ..

Technical characteristics of the Ural M-62 motorcycle

Overall dimensions, mm
length	2420
width	1650
height	1100
Motorcycle base (distance between wheel axles), mm	1100
Ground clearance at full load and normal tire pressure, mm	125
Track, mm	1130
Maximum speed, km/h	95
Weight, kg	340
Maximum load, kg	255
Average operating fuel consumption per 100 km when driving in various road conditions with variable load, l	6
Engine
Type	Four-stroke, carburetor, two-cylinder, opposed cylinder, air-cooled
Working volume, cm3	650
Cylinder diameter, mm	78
Piston stroke, mm	78
Compression ratio	6,2
Maximum power, hp	28
Maximum power, kW	20,6
Crankshaft rotation speed at maximum power, rpm.	5000-5200
Maximum torque. Nm	47
Carburetor	K-38
Air purifier	Combined inertial contact-oil filter with two-stage cleaning
Transmission
Clutch	Dry double-disc, driven discs with linings on both sides
Cardan transmission	Cardan shaft with elastic coupling and joint on needle bearings
main gear	Pair of bevel wheels with spiral teeth, gear ratio - 4.62
Transmission	Four-speed, with gear ratios in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears 3.6; 2.28; 1.7; 1.3, respectively
Electrical equipment
Ignition system	Battery
Voltage, V	6
Accumulator battery	3MT-12
Generator	G-414
Relay regulator	RR-31
Breaker-distributor	PM05
Ignition coil	B201
Chassis
Frame	Tubular double closed type
Front wheel suspension	Telescopic fork with double-acting hydraulic shock absorbers
Rear wheel suspension	Spring
Front wheel travel, mm	80
Rear wheel travel, mm	60
Tire size, inch	3,75-19
Brakes	Shoe, with friction linings on the front and rear wheels
Refueling volumes
Fuel tank, l	22
Engine crankcase, l	2
Gearbox housing, l	0,8
Main gear housing, l	0.15
Air cleaner, l	0.2

Motorcycles URAL M-61, M-62, K-750

I do not claim to be the author’s laurels on the topic of Soviet Heavy Motorcycles. If you wish, more detailed information can be found in old books from the “pre-revolutionary” edition or on specialized websites on the Internet. Therefore, I will limit myself to a short review article about these motorcycles.

The first motorcycle, the Ural M-72, the first-born of the Ural family, began production in 1940. Throughout its production, the motorcycle underwent minor upgrades. When developing a new model, an overhead valve engine was installed in the serial chassis of the M-72 motorcycle. This is how the transitional model M-61 appeared. After setting up serial production and modernizing individual parts of the machine, the next model M-62 was created.

The Kiev plant began creating a new model of the K-750 motorcycle with a radical redesign of the chassis of the M-72 Motorcycle. The design of the engine has undergone minor changes.

Motorcycles belong to the class of heavy vehicles intended for use primarily with trailed sidecars. Motorcycles are equipped with two-cylinder, four-stroke engines with opposed cylinders.

On the motorcycles described, a cardan drive is installed between the gearbox and the rear wheel, which is more reliable and wear-resistant than a chain drive.

Later modifications of the Ural motorcycle 2M-63, M-66, M-67 and 8-103.10, although they have some changes, generally repeat the design solutions of the M-61 and M-62. The first significant difference is the transition from the so-called. spark plug frame M-62 to 2M-63 on the pendulum suspension of the rear wheel. The first M-63s were equipped with an engine from the M-62.

The next change was the engine oil system, M-66 where an oil filter was added, and the front engine cover was changed accordingly.

M-67 - in common parlance, the “sovnarkhoz” received 12-volt electrical equipment. Late M-67, as well as Ural 8-103.10 and modifications received modified cylinder heads (the stroke angles and diameter of the valve plates, and accordingly the valve rocker arms, changed). Another change was the addition of a reverse gear to the gearbox. Also, the K-301 carburetors were replaced with K-63 carburetors.

Motorcycle with sidecar M-63 Ural-2

Years of production: 1963—1980

Technical characteristics of the Ural M-63 motorcycle

Overall dimensions, mm
length	2420
width	1640
height	1100
Motorcycle base (distance between wheel axles), mm	1100
Ground clearance at full load and normal tire pressure, mm	150
Track, mm	1130
Maximum speed, km/h	95
Weight, kg	310
Maximum load, kg	255
Average operating fuel consumption per 100 km when driving in various road conditions with variable load, l	6
Engine
Type	Four-stroke, carburetor, two-cylinder, opposed cylinder, air-cooled
Working volume, cm3	650
Cylinder diameter, mm	78
Piston stroke, mm	78
Compression ratio	7
Maximum power, hp	32
Maximum power, kW	23,5
Crankshaft rotation speed at maximum power, rpm.	5000-5200
Maximum torque. Nm	47
Carburetor	K-301G
Air purifier	Combined inertial contact-oil filter with two-stage cleaning
Transmission
Clutch	Dry double-disc, driven discs with linings on both sides
Cardan transmission	Cardan shaft with elastic coupling and joint on needle bearings
main gear	Pair of bevel wheels with spiral teeth, gear ratio - 4.62
Transmission	Four-speed, with gear ratios in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears 3.6; 2.28; 1.7; 1.3, respectively
Electrical equipment
Ignition system	Battery
Voltage, V	6
Accumulator battery	3MT-12
Generator	G-414
Relay regulator	PP-302
Breaker-distributor	PM11A
Ignition coil	B201
Chassis
Frame	Tubular double closed type
Front wheel suspension	Telescopic fork with double-acting hydraulic shock absorbers
Rear wheel suspension	Lever on double-acting spring-hydraulic shock absorbers, height adjustable
Front wheel travel, mm	140
Rear wheel travel, mm	90
Tire size, inch	3,75-19
Brakes	Shoe, with friction linings on the front and rear wheels
Refueling volumes
Fuel tank, l	20
Engine crankcase, l	2
Gearbox housing, l	0,8
Main gear housing, l	0,13
Air cleaner, l	0.2

M-63. Frame and stroller

The frame is the main load-bearing element of a motorcycle, to which all components and assemblies of the motorcycle are attached. The motorcycle frame is double, tubular, welded, closed type.

The structure and main elements of the motorcycle and sidecar frame are shown in Fig. 1.

Figure 1. Motorcycle and sidecar frame:

11— motorcycle frame; 2 — front motor pin; 3 — front collet mount; 4 — collet bolt; 5 — motorcycle stand; 6 — foot brake pedal; 7 — driver’s right footrest; 8 — stand buffer; 9 — rod for fastening the stroller frame; 10— passenger footrest; 11 — stroller frame; 12 — spring; 13— spring stepladder; 14 — wheel axle lever; 15 — stroller wheel axle; 16 — wheel hub protective cap; 17 — protective disc of the brake drum; 18 — buffer; 19 — sidecar fender; 20 — marker light; 21— beam for fastening the stroller body; 22— spring shoe; 23— rear collet mount; 24 — pendulum arm of the rear suspension; 25 — shock absorber; 9.6 — license plate bracket; 27— yoke of the rear shield; 28 — passenger seat; 29 — passenger seat handle; 30 — rear shield; 31 — driver’s seat; 32— gas tank mounting bracket; 33 — driver’s left footrest; 34 — engine mounting bracket; 35 — rear motor pin; 36 — traction adjusting fork; 37 — front link for fastening the stroller frame

The frame of the stroller is rectangular in shape, connected to the motorcycle frame with collet clamps 3 and 23 and two racks 9 and 37. At the rear, brackets are welded to the frame for attaching quarter-elliptic leaf springs.

The stroller wheel is connected to the frame 11 by a torsion bar suspension. To protect against contamination, the internal cavity of the wheel brake drums is closed with a shield 17.

Rice. 2. Torsion bar suspension of the stroller wheel:

1 — torsion bar plug; 2 — oil seal cage; 3 — hub of the lever axis; 4 — rear pipe of the stroller frame; 5 - torsnon; 6 — coupling bolts; 7—rear; collet connection bracket; 8 — left pipe of the stroller frame; 9 — travel limiter of the suspension arm; 10— rubber buffer; 11 — wheel axle; 12 — wheel axle lever; 13 — oil seal; 14 — oil seal ring; 15 — lever axis

The torsion bar suspension of the wheel (Fig. 2) is mounted in the rear transverse pipe 4 of the frame. Torsion bar 5 has small triangular splines at the ends for connection with the internal pipe coupling and the lever axis 15. The internal pipe coupling has a spline hole and is welded to the frame pipe.

The lever axis is hollow with internal splines. With its outer ground surfaces, the lever axle is installed in the hub of the axle 3. At the outer end of the lever axle, the lever of the wheel axle 12 is secured with segment keys and bolts. The hub of the lever axle is inserted into the rear transverse pipe of the frame and is attached to the stroller frame with a flange.

The movement of the wheel axis lever in the vertical plane is limited by bracket 9, welded to the right longitudinal pipe of the stroller frame. Impacts of the lever on the bracket during its sharp vibrations are absorbed by a rubber buffer 10 fixed to the bracket. The stroller wheel guard 19 (see Fig. 2) is mounted on three brackets; The middle bracket is secured to the right spring with stepladders.

Electrical diagram taken from the original M-63 manual

Rice. 32. Electrical diagram of a motorcycle: 1 - headlight; 2 — burning candle; 3—spark discharger; 4 - double-spark ignition coil; 5 — breaker with automatic ignition advance; 6 - generator; 7 — rear lamp of a motorcycle; 8 — front side lamp of the stroller; 9 — rear light of the stroller; 10 - battery; 11 — relay-regulator; 12 — brake light switch; 13 - signal; 14 - light switch and signal button

Wire connections and colors: I—to the ignition coil (red); II—to the motorcycle headlight (black); III—to ground (brown); IV—to the breaker (red); V - to the stroller lights (black); VI - From generator to terminal; YSh relay-regulator (green); VII - to terminal I of the generator (green); VIII — to the filament of the low beam lamp (black); IX — to the high beam lamp filament (green); X—from the signal button to the headlight (yellow); XI - to the light switch (blue); XII - to the signal (black); XIII - from signal to headlight (yellow); XIV - to terminal B of the relay regulator (blue); XV - from the relay-regulator to terminal Ш of the generator (brown); XVI - to battery (blue)

Wiring diagram for the headlight:

I-to terminal B of the regulator relay (blue); II-to the ignition coil; III-to terminal I of the generator (green); IV-to signal (black); V-from signal to headlight; VI-to light switch (blue); VII-from the signal button to the headlight (yellow); VIII-to the filament of the low beam lamp (black); IX-to the high beam lamp filament (green); X-to ground (brown); XI-to motorcycle headlight (black); XII-to stroller lights (black)

Fig. 12. Diagram of the ignition system: 1 - spark plug; 2 - breaker; 3 — breaker hammer; 4 — breaker anvil; 5 - ignition cam; 6 - capacitor; 7—battery; 8 - headlight; 9 — ignition switch contacts; 10 — ignition key; 11 — two-spark ignition coil; 12 — spark gaps; 13 - secondary winding; 14 - primary winding

Source: oppozit.ru

Cross 1000

“Cross 1000” is a special motorcycle with a sidecar for cross-country racing. Produced experimentally, in small batches.

Year of production “Cross 1000” - 1981

Engine displacement 925 cc.

Maximum speed 85 km/h.

Power 60 hp

motorcycle M-63S
Strela

Tires. Tire types and size designations

There are several ways to designate tire size.

This tire size means that the tire has a height of 1,200 mm;

The inner (landing) diameter of the wheel (disk) is 508 mm - the “landing” diameter of the tire on the disk, i.e. the inner size of the tire or the outer size of the rim.

Another way to indicate tire size:

14.00 is the tire width in inches;

20 is the inner (landing) diameter of the tire on the disk, i.e. this is the inner size of the tire or the outer size of the rim in inches;

R - means a tire with a radial cord (radial tire design).

Also, the tire size may look like this:

This tire size means the following: the tire has a height of 1,260 mm;

profile height is 85% of the width (i.e. 425x0.85 = 361.25 mm) - with the same width, the higher this figure, the higher the tire will be and vice versa. Usually this value is simply called “profile”;

Moto tire 19″ 3.75-19 L-96 (with camera) (Ural, Dnepr)

Article: L-96 Moto tire 19″ 3.75-19 L-96 (with camera) (Ural, Dnepr)

Description

Moto tire 19″ 3.75-19 L-96 (with camera) (Ural, Dnepr)

Related products

All-terrain tires for a motorcycle

Model C-97
The choice of wheels for the Ural motorcycle today is huge: you can buy them in a regular car store or order them in an online store with delivery. The all-terrain tire C-97 (4.20-19) is popular among motorcyclists.

The wheel has the following characteristics:

• Tire designation: 4.20-19.
• Metric value: 110/100-19 M/C 71K.
• Model: C-97.
• Suitable tire: 3.75-19.
• Diameter outside: 700 mm.
• Width: 105 mm.
• Load: 345 kgf.
• Speed ​​limit: 110 km/h.
• Tire weight: 6.5 (0.8) kg.
• Pressure at maximum load: 0.26 MPa.

On a note.

The rubber is intended for use on the rear wheel of the Ural motorbike and its subtypes on the road and off-road.

characteristics (chamber size, wheel diameter), tuning

The Ural bicycle is one of the images of the USSR. Almost all the children of that time rode it. Perhaps even now someone has this Soviet bicycle lying around in their garage or in the village.

As for the history of this brand, Ural bikes have been manufactured since 1965. Then the Perm plant launched the production of reliable and unpretentious bikes that would be useful not only for ordinary walks, but also for traveling long distances. They almost immediately began to be popular. Its design was simple, and repairs did not take much time.

The Ural bicycle was more focused on the adult male population of the country, but the Perm plant did not forget about the other part of the population. Kama is another product of this company. This is a ladies' bike, which was lighter and more comfortable than the Ural. Teenagers who still could not cope with the Urals also rode the Kama.

Today, bicycles are manufactured, which cooperates with bicycle manufacturers in India, China and Taiwan. This company now supplies the market not only with finished bikes, but also with spare parts and other components for bicycles.

Characteristics

Even before the start of production, a suitable geometry was calculated taking into account the anatomical features of the person. All Ural bikes were large with a frame height of 56 cm. The wheel diameter was 28 inches, which made it possible to operate the bike on smooth roads and off-road conditions. Although the tires were more suitable for driving on smooth roads. Some still found a solution to the problem and installed home-made wider tires and tubes on the rear wheel.

It had a rear brake hub installed, but some enthusiasts later installed rim brakes on their bikes.

If we talk about the equipment, then it was almost always standard. But still, sometimes it expanded, and reflectors, footrests, reinforced luggage racks and even first aid kits were installed on the bicycle.

Why did you love it?

First of all, the products of the Perm plant were convenient and unpretentious. The bottom bracket and bushings, the most frequently broken components of any bicycle, were easily repaired and replaced. This was greatly appreciated by the people of the Soviet Union. The Ural could be used to transport heavy loads and rides to a neighboring village. It should be noted that it was in rural areas that the Urals were in particular demand. The largest size suited almost all men and even some women.

Unfortunately, the reliability was counterbalanced by the very heavy weight of the bike - 16 kilograms. The fact is that the frame and other components of the bike were made of steel. A modern high-speed analogue can weigh only 6-7 kilograms.

Snatching a new Ural in the 70s was considered very prestigious. They could be given out as incentives at factories.

Urals in the hands of enthusiasts today

Ural bicycles in the form in which they were almost 50 years ago are no longer produced today. However, not all of them have already rotted or are lying around in the attic as trash. Today, Ural bike tuning is quite popular. Some manage to change his appearance beyond recognition, while others simply restore his canonical appearance. Modernization is great and covers all its components. The most talented ones also equipped them with motors from mopeds and even chainsaws.

Some install analogue parts, while others diligently and painstakingly restore old ones. It is very difficult to find new parts for Urals today. You can basically buy them only from hand.

Modernized Ural