How to unscrew the variator nut on a 157 qmj engine

How to remove a scooter's variator

Unfortunately, the task of removing a variator from a scooter engine without the use of special tools turns out to be difficult in practice, and in many cases it is impossible.
Depending on the scooter model, the front variator impeller may be of different designs, which will require the use of different types of pullers to remove it.

We insert the puller pins into the special holes in the impeller, put a wrench on the nut, rest the puller arms against something or simply hold it with your hand (if you can hold it) and unscrew the nut on the trunnion (right-hand thread). Our puller will be homemade, making it is easy and simple.

The design of the puller is easy to understand from the photo. And what exactly is there to understand? Two plates fastened together with a bolt at the ends of which pins are welded - half an hour of work...

To remove a front variator of a different type, we use a puller of a slightly different design: several scraps with teeth from an old unnecessary variator plate and a piece of a tire are welded to a suitable metal ring so that there is something to hold it by.

In the same way, we put the puller on the outer pulley of the variator, rest the lever against something or simply hold it and unscrew the nut.

We remove the belt, pry the front variator with your fingers from the inside and remove it from the axle.

In the same way, to remove the rear variator: insert the puller pins into the holes of the clutch drum, rest the puller levers against something or hold them, and use a wrench to unscrew the nut on the input shaft of the rear gearbox.

Remove the clutch drum from the shaft and then remove the rear variator. If anyone is interested in how to disassemble the rear variator, read the article: How to disassemble the rear variator of a scooter

This type of front variator can be unscrewed using a chain puller. For such work, it is advisable to choose a more powerful puller. Something like this.

Carefully wrap the chain around the variator impeller, hold or rest the puller lever against something and unscrew the nut.

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Schematic diagrams of electrical equipment for scooters/scooters/scooters/mopeds

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Photo report: Repair of engine 157 QMJ of Atlant scooter (150 CC)

This article will show only the main stages of assembly and repair of the 157QMJ engine, which is very popular in Russia. If you describe the entire assembly process from start to finish, the article simply will not load in your browser. Therefore, for your convenience, at the end of the article and more, there are links that will lead you to where any stage of assembly and disassembly of a mechanism or assembly is of interest to you will be described in more detail.

It is worth noting that the 157QMJ engine is very simple in design, so to repair it there is no need to install additional pullers or devices. The engine that we will be assembling today was very worn out, so much so that there is nothing to talk about here. Whether you like it or not, you will have to change almost all the parts, from oil seals to the crankshaft. More details about disassembling this engine are written in the article: Disassembling the engine 157 QMJ of the Atlant scooter (150 SS)

So, first we clean off the remnants of old gaskets and sealant from the planes of the crankcase halves; if necessary, we “drive” the threads under the mounting bolts; by the way, we also do not forget to “drive” the threads on the bolts.

We blow through the oil channels with a compressor, thoroughly clean all parts from dirt and wash them.

Take the crankshaft and insert it into the right half of the crankcase.

We turn the engine around, take the key of the overrunning clutch and insert it into the groove on the axle.

Lightly tap it with a hammer, making sure that it sits evenly in the groove without distortion.

We insert the oil pump drive axis into place.

We take the oil pump drive chain (in our case the chain is new), put it on the oil pump sprocket, then put it on the middle sprocket of the crankshaft, then put the pump sprocket on the drive axis.

Please note: the oil pump drive chain must be placed on the middle sprocket of the crankshaft.

We insert sprockets, a tin rod or a stick under the tooth and tighten the nut on the oil pump axis.

Screw the oil pump drive housing into place.

We take the overrunning clutch body, put it on the axle, turn the body so that the key on the axle fits into its groove on the body, then push the clutch all the way.

Insert the starter idler gear shaft

We put the starter intermediate gear on the axle

We put the overrunning clutch gear separator in its place.

We put the overrunning clutch gear on the axle

We put on the washer, thoroughly clean the threads of the trunnion and the nut, then degrease it, apply a “blue” locking agent to the threads (preferably) and using an old unnecessary screwdriver and hammer, tighten the nut (left-hand thread).

What is the difference between 157 and 158 engines?

Driving under the red zone is not normal: it is allowed during sharp acceleration, but when the speed has already picked up speed, it should drop by a couple of K due to energy-dynamic forces. On my 157 engine, the 110 goes at 6.5-6.2k depending on the slope. This is I think for an honest 150cc engine the maximum. I wonder how long the piston lasts for me - I operate it as carefully as possible and feed it with pure synthetics. Everyone says that 10 thousand goes to the furnace. So I’m conducting an experiment to see if the Chinese cylinder is capable of more - to get through to the first overhaul without major losses .
I want to draw a line under the dispute between 157 and 158.

Any 157 engine in stock will never go more than 95 km/h. IT IS A FACT! after modifications to the variator alone, the maximum speed rises to 105 km/h. Having changed the gears of the gearbox, putting a turned head on 1mm + 170cc CPG, a good carburetor, + it is necessary to balance 2 wheels. Perhaps the scooter will go 120 km/h. But let's not forget that the air-cooled engine is not prepared for long-term loads. And another not unimportant fact: rear drum brakes (today a kit of disc brakes is optionally available). The advantages include the low cost and availability of spare parts.

Let's consider the 158 engine using the example of the STELS Outlander 150. Facts from personal experience, based on the practice of 3 scooters: The possibility of overheating is excluded, because There is water cooling (radiator with forced cooling). There are already disc brakes on both axles. The dynamics of the stock transmission are very good. Maximum speed is 120 km/h with a passenger (according to the car speedometer, an error of 3-5 km is possible). Large 16-radius wheels, which allow you to feel more confident on the road (I personally award this merit to Outlander) I hear less often about breakdowns of this device than about breakdowns of 157 engines. Yes, if it breaks, it’s only because of crooked hands.

Z.Y. If there are real facts (not like: they told me) that contradict mine, PLEASE COME TO THE STUDIO!

I have a friend, he had a 125cc (152qmi). I drove it 23 thousand km, changing tires, oil, filters and pads. One block of wood did not notice him and knocked him down. Alive, thank God my friend, but the scooter could still live.

Any 157 engine in stock will never go more than 95 km/h. IT IS A FACT! after modifications to the variator alone, the maximum speed rises to 105 km/h.

That's all fairy tales. For some reason, my maximum speed remains the same and with a modified transmission. Any variable speed switch to maximum speed sooner or later takes a few seconds there - it's a matter of time. I say again that they start comparing a sports car with a stock one when they have already installed a new belt and multi-variant, but what was the result on the new stock H.Z. because the engine is running in, and nah. who needs to flog the engine for the sake of truth. But I wasn’t too lazy to check it, and for some reason I trust my own eyes more than other people’s. And for the data about your friend’s engine, Tyoma, thank you very much. I always suspected that the cylinder might well survive to the end. I will continue the experiment if I don’t break it too early. Unfortunately, there is an abundance of “blocks” everywhere.

in-in: so the whole point is that you can’t get by with just a welder - that’s what I’m trying to talk about. For the sake of such a thing, I would suggest a cpg with a new head to throw some cubes into the engine - then finally a lafa. And just casually take some light rollers and put them in a sports car so that you can spin the engine in the red zone for the sake of these unfortunate 10 km/h, so this is not tuning anymore, but shaitanarbakolkhozdzhananymys. Tuning should not have a destructive effect on the engine components (the exception is sports, where pumping designed for one race), and everything else goes to waste. H.Z. I am not only basing this on my own experience, but also taking into account the experience of friends who do this professionally every day. Everyone has the same opinions in this regard. That’s why I closed this question for myself. So, excuse me.

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Photo report: Dismantling the engine 157QMJ of the Atlant scooter (150CC)

The 157 QMJ engine with a volume of 150 CC, which we will be disassembling today, is installed on scooters that are very popular in Russia and have different trade names: Atlant, Racer, Pioneer; there is no particular point in listing all the scooter models on which this engine is installed.

What can you say about this engine? In general, the engine is not bad, there is little potential for tuning, it has a very reliable kickstarter mechanism, this engine is equipped with a powerful generator that allows you to install additional electrical appliances, and so on. etc.

Unfortunately, it will not be possible to place all the stages of engine disassembly in one article, therefore, by analogy with previous articles on engine disassembly, the article will contain links that will lead you to a page where the disassembly of an individual mechanism or assembly will be described in more detail.

We drain the oil, place the engine on some clean surface and begin disassembling the engine by removing the piston; how to remove the piston is described in detail in the article: How to remove the piston from a scooter engine

We unscrew all the fastening bolts on the engine cover and tap it with a wooden mallet on all sides.

We remove the cover without losing the guide bushings - there are two of them (marked with arrows).

Remove the starter idler gear

Using an old unnecessary screwdriver and a hammer, unscrew the overrunning clutch nut (left-hand thread).

Remove the nut and washer

Remove the overrunning clutch gear from the shaft

Unscrew the two bolts on the oil pump housing

Remove the overrunning clutch from the axle

Please note how much the oil pump drive chain is stretched - it will have to be replaced.

We remove the key from the trunnion

We insert a tin rod or stick under the tooth of the oil pump sprocket and unscrew the nut.

Remove the sprocket from the oil pump drive axis along with the chain

We take out the oil pump axle and put it somewhere away

Unscrew the last mounting bolt

We tap the crankcase halves on all sides and separate them, without losing the guide bushings (shown by arrows).

We insert a slightly sharpened rod into the center of the crankshaft journal and use a hammer to knock the journal off the kickstarter gear (one gentle blow is enough for this).

We remove the crankshaft and timing chain from the half

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Engine 154 fmi technical specifications

163FML Engine Specifications

Engine design 157QMJ

This manual covers 1P57QMJ type engines installed on scooters with a displacement from 125 to 180 cc. see (152QMI, 162QMK), however, engines of the 139QMA/B type also have a similar device, with minimal differences in the design of the transmission, crankshaft and CPG. The 158QMJ and 153QMJ engines also have a similar device. [Read more…]

Engine 158QMJ

The 158 QMJ engine is a modification of the 157QMJ engine, but despite its similar design, it actually does not have a single interchangeable part with it. This engine is installed on QJ scooters, in particular Stels and Keeway and Vento. In terms of workmanship, technical and driving characteristics, these two engines (157QMJ and 158QMJ) are not much different.

158QMJ Engine Specifications

Cooling system: Forced air Cylinder volume: 149.6 Piston diameter: 58 mm Maximum power: 5.6 kW at 7500 rpm Maximum torque: 7.6 Nm at 6000 rpm Idle speed: 1700 +/- 100 Engine starting: electric starter and kickstarter Transmission: Automatic integral transmission (CVT) Weight: 27 kg

Engine 152QMI

152QMI Engine Specifications:

1 cylinder, 4-stroke, air-forced cooling, automatic integral transmission Displacement cm. : 124.58 (dcylinder=52.4 mm) Piston stroke, mm: 57.8 Max. Power for dcylinder=52.4 mm (KW/rpm): 6.3/7500 Max. Torque dcylinder = 52.4 mm (Nm/rev. per min): 9/6500 Idle speed (rev. per min): 1500 ± 100

Engine D1E41QMB

Technical characteristics of the D1E41QMB engine

1 cylinder, 2-stroke, air-forced cooling, automatic chain transmission Displacement cm. : 49.6 (dcylinder=41.0 mm) Working volume cm. cubic meters. : 54.58 (dcylinder=43.0 mm) Piston stroke, mm: 37.5 Max. Power for dcylinder=41.0 mm (KW/rpm): 3.2/7000 Max. Torque dcylinder = 41.0 mm (Nm/rev. per min): 3.5/6000 Idle speed (rev. per min): 1900 ± 100

Engine 139QMA/139QMB

An excellent four-stroke engine designed in the 90s and, thanks to its simplicity and reliability, has won a large share of the 4t 50cc scooter engine market. cube Available for scooters for 12-inch wheels (with a longer crankcase - variator cover with 9 bolts (marking 139QMA, Fig. 1) and for 10-inch wheels (with a shorter crankcase - variator cover with 8 bolts (marking 139QMB, Fig. 2). [Read more…]

Engine 139FMB/147FMD/152FMH

Technical characteristics: 1 cylinder, 4-stroke, air cooling, 4-speed gearbox Displacement cm. : 49.43 (cylinder d=39 mm, piston stroke 41.4 mm, modification 1P39FMB) 71.79 (cylinder d=47 mm, piston stroke 41.4 mm, modification 147FMD) 105.07 (cylinder d=52 mm, piston stroke 49.5 mm, modification 152FMH)

How to unscrew the variator nut on a 157 qmj engine

[sc:ads1] Despite the fact that the variator is one of the most durable and wear-resistant components of two-wheeled vehicles, sooner or later the motorist faces the problem of replacing it. A beginner inexperienced in the intricacies of motor mechanics, in view of the widespread opinion about the ease of operation and maintenance of minibikes, will most likely consider this a piece of cake, but everything is far from so simple .

Replacing a CVT in a home garage is quite difficult. The reason is that to dismantle this unit you must have dexterity (that is, straight hands), an understanding of the structure of the vehicle being repaired and, most importantly, specified tools.

If the first and second are purely a matter of profit, then the availability of the necessary repair kit will not be solved by itself. At specialized service stations, the variator is replaced using special pullers, which are provided by official representative offices of brands or are made independently by Kulibin motorcycle mechanics.

The main difficulty in removing the variator from a scooter is fixing the pulley and moving parts. To do this, it is necessary to have pullers suitable for the specific design of the vehicle assembly. This holder is available in several versions.

It can consist of two plates connected in the middle with a bolt (like scissors), with pins welded to the edges. The principle of operation of the tool is to fix the impeller. To do this, puller pins are inserted into the holes on it. Then, using a wrench of a suitable size, the nut on the axle is unscrewed and the variator is dismantled.

There is another design for a homemade puller. It consists of a ring slightly larger than the outer pulley with the teeth of a used variator plate welded along the inner circumference. For convenience, the tool is equipped with a handle holder. Despite the fundamentally different design, the principle of operation of such a puller is similar - fixation.

Overview of 162FMJ engines

Chinese-made motorcycles with an engine capacity of 150 cm³, presented on our website, in most cases are equipped with the so-called “overhead valve” type of engine with a lower camshaft (OHV - “OverHeadValve” - English designation).
The history of the use of this type of engine by motorcycle manufacturers in different countries goes back more than one decade. But in this article we will try to give only a general description of the “overhead valve” engine. The expression “overhead valve engine” covers the vast majority of engines in which the design of the gas distribution mechanism (timing) differs from “lower valve engines”. However, this expression is not usually used to refer to engines with an overhead camshaft (OHC - "OverHeadCamshaft" and DOHC - "DoubleOverHeadCamshafT"), but is used to refer to overhead valve engines with a lower camshaft.

An overhead valve engine uses “rods” (“pushrods”) that pass through a tunnel in the block and cylinder head. The reliability of this design lies in the use of a gear drive of the camshaft, which avoids the occurrence of a number of malfunctions, namely, stretching, breaking or “jumping” of the chain in a mechanism with a chain drive of the camshaft; stretching, rupture, jamming of the belt in the gas distribution mechanism with a belt drive of the camshaft.

The thermal clearance of the intake and exhaust valves is adjusted using an adjusting screw and a lock nut located on one of the arms of the rocker arm. Thermal clearance values ​​are usually: 0.05mm for the intake valve and 0.10mm for the exhaust valve.

The main advantages, which have been confirmed by the experience of operating “overhead valve” engines by more than one generation of motorcycle enthusiasts, are their reliability, simplicity of design, compact size and low requirements for lubricant quality.

Along with the advantages, the “overhead valve” engine has a significant drawback that limits its scope of application - these are high moments of inertia that arise in the gas distribution mechanism, which do not allow the use of such an engine where it is necessary to achieve high engine speeds.

An engine with a valve mechanism built according to the OHV scheme is installed on motorcycles whose engines develop no more than 7000 rpm. These motorcycles have good torque at low engine speeds, low fuel consumption and have proven themselves to be simple and reliable transport vehicles. means for use in urban and rural areas.

The marking of the described engine includes a letter and number designation - 162FMJ...:

How to remove the variator cover on a scooter

I can’t remove the variator cover. The bolts are set to 8. I try with a wrench and they lick off. What should I do? Such parts must be removed with sockets and not wrenches.

Tap the bolts lightly with a hammer. You only need to unscrew it with socket wrenches.

So I unscrewed them

cut it, put new ones

tap the edge of the bolt with a chisel, so basically they tear off (do not confuse with tear off, tear off, move from dead point) the bolts on the plugs if they are stuck

or pull tight and then try to unwind

Didn't help. Fucking CHINA.

take it with a clamp (and if nothing else helps, weld the M8-M10 nut should unscrew) I unscrew the studs on engines like this (I work on car restoration) and come and unscrew the 60-year-old bolts that are all rusty and stuck.

Most likely your heads are Chinese, unscrewing them with crappy heads is not a problem! But there is a way! Usually in cheap kits or American ones there are heads of non-standard size three-eighths or the like, measure with a caliper, look for a head of about 7.5 mm, hammer it with a hammer and unscrew it, do not cut off the bolts, if they are tightened well, then you will not unscrew them with an extractor! But in my opinion, the whole reason is the quality of the tool you use. I sell it and use it often.

(05.14.2009, 19:49) ——————————————— Me too. When I first unscrewed it with a weak head, I couldn’t, it straightened out. Find a good one better than one made in Novosibirsk, they are six-piece and when overloaded they burst and do not stretch. A CVT for a scooter is like a gearbox for a car. In principle, this is the gearbox. The rear variator is a manual continuously variable transmission. As a rule, all modern scooters are equipped with a V-belt variator. The peculiarity of its operation is that it works depending on the engine speed and despite the number of loads. If the scooter's rear variator is worn out, it can be easily felt while driving. The scooter loses its smooth ride, acceleration speed and maximum speed drop. It is not comfortable to ride a scooter for the reasons mentioned above. The rear variator of a scooter is also called a centrifugal clutch. The operating principle of a centrifugal clutch is quite simple. At certain engine speeds, the clutch automatically connects the secondary shaft of the variator with the gearbox, this ensures a smooth start of the scooter from a standstill. To ensure comfortable travel, the rear variator must always be in good working order.

A scooter's variator (centrifugal clutch) usually lasts for more than one season. In Japanese scooters this can be 5 years or more. But even despite such excellent service, sooner or later he becomes unfit for service. To make it last longer, you need to disassemble the scooter’s variator before each season and evaluate its condition. Even for minor tuning of the variator, it needs to be completely disassembled.

Replacing 139FMB with 152FMH