Motor scooter ant repair how to disassemble and reassemble the engine

Just a couple of months ago, an old client asked to overhaul the engine of his Ant for the season. He is not greedy for money - he promised to buy everything needed for repairs. We agreed, the client pulled the engine off the frame and brought it for repairs. After disassembly, an unpleasant picture emerged: the piston, crankshaft, motor chain and almost all bearings were worn out.

The customer insisted on purchasing a new crankshaft. They are now in abundance in any store - I don’t want to take them, but their quality is still good... I resisted for a long time and in the end the client found a used engine from which I pulled the crankshaft. Of course, it was slightly worn out, but the bearing of the lower head of the connecting rod was intact and intact, and we didn’t need anything more.

Photo report: Engine disassembly

Almost just before leaving for permanent residence on another collective farm, an old acquaintance, whom I had not seen for 15 years, turned to me and asked me to overhaul the engine of his Ant.
To be honest, I didn’t have much of a desire to get involved with this Soviet chatterbox, to say the least... But after thinking about it and playing out the situation in my head that I would have to sit in a new place for some time without my favorite job, I agreed and immediately began the repairs. I will not go into the essence of the disassembly in particular within the framework of this article - I will only outline the main points and, based on my experience, I will try to describe the most common malfunctions and errors during repairs.

The engine had the following symptoms before being repaired:

Bad start
Oil leak
Weak traction
Increased noise during operation
The winding lever did not return to its place

Depressurization of the crank chamber, as well as wear of the seals
Poor quality assembly
The piston died
Bearing wear
Kickstarter return spring broke

Everything else, including the gearbox and clutch, did not cause any complaints during operation. However, first things first.

Before a major overhaul, I don’t wash the engines - I just drain the oil, pull it off the frame and get to work.

Assembly

We look inside the right half of the crankcase for a copier on which the pawl of the gear shift mechanism moves, and with several clicks we check its functionality

We take the copy shaft in our hand so that its “daisy” looks at you and turn the gear shift forks clockwise until it stops

Without changing the position of the gearshift forks, we assemble the gearbox and insert the forks into it along with the copy shaft in the order shown in the picture

Without disturbing the position of the parts, we install the gearbox assembly with the tracking shaft in the right half of the crankcase and install the gear shift shaft there along with the locking bar. After installing the retainer bar, do not forget to insert its return spring into a special slot inside the crankcase

The procedure for installing a gearbox, with the necessary skill, is very easy and quick. If you are unable to install the gearbox this way, disassemble it and install the parts separately

To be extra sure that the copy shaft did not accidentally turn during assembly, turn it as far as possible clockwise

We install a sector of the gear shift mechanism on the gear shift shaft, making sure that it is its last tooth that engages with the gear of the copy shaft, and not some other one. After installing the sector, we put a return spring on the gearshift shaft

And we enjoy the impeccable performance of the manually assembled gearbox.

Just a couple of months ago, an old client asked to overhaul the engine of his Ant for the season. He is not greedy for money - he promised to buy everything needed for repairs. We agreed, the client brought it for repairs. The piston, crankshaft, motor chain and almost all bearings were worn out.

Removing and checking the piston (CPG)

Remove the cylinder head (cylinder head).

The cylinder head gasket held up well, as evidenced by the absence of oil leaks.

In the upper part of the cylinder opposite the exhaust window, we feel the groove with our finger. If it feels a clearly perceptible so-called “wave”, “step”, that is, a drop, then such a cylinder is no longer subject to further use. It needs to be either bored to repair size or bought a new one.

The wear can be easily felt in the place where the piston rings do not reach the end of the cylinder. In the place where the piston rings do not work, the nominal factory size is maintained, but in the place where they work, the metal wears out. That is why a transition is formed at the boundary of these two sections, which is larger the greater the wear of the cylinder.

In my case, as expected, the wear was clearly palpable and the cylinder mirror was covered in nicks and scratches.

A bunch of hay that blocked the flow of cooling air, in my opinion, did not add efficiency to the cooling system... How can you even drive like that?

The piston turned out to be burst and, moreover, according to the good old collective farm tradition, it was treated with sandpaper. As indicated by numerous risks on its surface.

After removing the clutch cover and removing the kickstarter shaft, the reason for the freezing of the winding lever was found - the return spring had burst in half.

The motor chain turned out to be stretched, but not critically.

Part 3. Behind the wheel and Moto - separate components of scooters.

October 1957 - A little information on the dyno starter - a device that acts as a generator and starter on a motor scooter.
(Behind the wheel, 1 page). December 1957 – Description of the chassis of the Tula T-200 passenger scooter. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

December 1961 – About the K-36 carburetor, which was used on Tourist and TGA-200 (Ant) scooters. (Behind the wheel, 2 pages).

August 1965 – About why the automatic ignition advance was removed. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

July 1974 – A short article about shock absorbers and their design. In addition, you can find interesting operating diagrams of the shock absorber and general data on the models. (Behind the wheel, 3 pages).

Inverted version of the table.

January 1976 – Detailed information on Soviet tires. There is little to do with scooters, but the types of tires that were used on them are in the table. (Behind the wheel, 3 pages).

March 1976 – General information on spark plugs and some types of their malfunctions. There is a specific connection with scooters only when listing the models of spark plugs and the cars on which they were used. (Behind the wheel, 4 pages).

September 1977 - About the new K-62 carburetor, which replaced the K-36 model and began to be installed on Tulitsa scooters and almost all subsequent scooters and motorcycles of the Tula Machine-Building Plant. (Behind the wheel, 2 pages).

January 1979 – About batteries that were installed on scooters. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

February 1991 – Carburetor K-65 which replaced the K-62. (Moto, 2 pages).

February 1991 – Some more information about tires. (Moto, 2 pages).

February 1992 – Construction of the front fork, which began to be installed on the Tula 5.951 off-road motorcycle. (Moto, 3 pages).

March 1992 – More about the battery. (Moto, 1 page).

April 1993 – Tula motorcycle gas tank 5.951. (Moto, 2 pages).

July 1993 – Information about old carburetors, of those listed on scooters, K-28 and K-36 were installed. (Moto, 2 pages).

April 1994 – Construction of the Ant gearbox and drive suspension, i.e. rear axle as a whole. (Moto, 4 pages).

October 1994 - Information on lamps, in the table at the end there are types of lamps installed on Tula scooters. (Moto, 4 pages).

Same bonus - all articles in one file: part 3.pdf

Removing the clutch

Unbend the lock washer, insert a tin rod or stick under the tooth of the motor transmission sprocket and unscrew the nut on the crankshaft journal (right-hand thread).

Unbend the lock washer, fix the inner clutch drum with a puller, which is a clutch disc with a welded piece of tire, and unscrew the nut (left-hand thread).

We take out the discs and drum.

Remove the basket from the shaft along with the chain and sprocket.

Removing the dyno starter

We remove the cooling casing and then, if the engine is not converted to a magneto, remove the ignition breaker cam. Hold the dyno starter rotor by the fan and unscrew the nut. If you cannot hold the rotor in this way, fix the crankshaft with something and unscrew the nut.

We pull off the rotor with a puller. The rotor can be pulled off either with a standard puller or with a homemade one. Depending on the situation, I use both standard and homemade ones.

Preparation

Before installing the crankshaft, it is advisable to check it for runout. And it doesn’t matter whether the crankshaft is new or used, you need to check it otherwise, with today’s “quality” of spare parts, you can repair the engine and then suffer with it for a long time and tediously. We place the crankshaft on the prisms and check the runout, the norm is no more than 0.03 mm. If you don't have an indicator, take the crankshaft to a good turner

Analysis of previous repair errors

We remove the flange on which the stator is mounted and carefully inspect the connector plane for interference by “drop-dead handles”.

No matter how many times I repair Ants, I come across the fact that all sorts of “drop-dead little hands” seal the oil channel through which oil flows to the crankshaft main bearing and oil seal. I'm already tired, honestly - how much can you? Why cover it up?

It doesn’t matter to me, but how do you think the bearing and oil seal should work without lubrication? Admire what happens to the main bearing when it runs dry.

We unscrew the bolts and half the crankcase.

We recommend reading:

Repair manual

Diagram, comments, ignition installation algorithm

The gearbox of the T-200M scooter is a complex unit. And many of our readers are perplexed by the question: how to properly disassemble and reassemble it?

To know this, information only about the assembly sequence and tools is not enough; you need to familiarize yourself in detail with the box, with the operation of its parts and mechanisms. At the request of the editors, engineers V. Kamerilov and L. Boyarnikov talk about the T-200M box.

When starting to talk about the device, I would like readers to carefully read this table. Later, during assembly, it will provide you with a service.

The gearbox consists of two shafts, four pairs of gears and a gear shift mechanism.

Rice. 1. Internal arrangement of shafts and gears in the gearbox

The primary shaft 1 (Fig. 1) of the gearbox rests on two ball bearings 2 and 7, pressed into the holes of the left and right halves of the crankcase. It has a through hole through which the clutch rods pass. Gear 3 of the first gear is made integral with the shaft. Gear 4 of the second gear and gear 6 of the fourth gear rotate freely on the input shaft. These gears are engaged using the movable gear 5 of the third gear, which moves on the splines of the input shaft.

What's the result?

The crankshaft has been taken away - to say that it is worn out is to say nothing... The gearbox bearings, like the main bearings, have gone to the same place - to the crankshaft: in the trash. The gearbox, with the exception of one fork, did not cause any complaints. By the way, the clutch too.

Now the question is: what to do with all this junk? Buy a “plasticine” crankshaft from no one’s making and mold it into the engine. I was initially against this idea. In general, we found a used engine for a ruble and removed the crankshaft from it. Of course I had to tinker with him. Since the thread was clogged, I sharpened it and straightened it with a sharpening tool.

After correcting the threads, I checked the crankshaft for runout. There was no need to worry - the beating of the trunnions did not exceed one hundredth of a millimeter with a tolerance of three hundredths. By and large, it would have been necessary to replace the bushing of the upper head of the connecting rod, but time was running out and the bushing was not very worn. In all other respects, the crankshaft did not disappoint and this purchase can safely be called a success.

We decided to buy everything else: CPG, cylinder head, gaskets, seals, bearings, motor chain, etc. in the store. Although, by and large, the cylinder could have been bored out and that would be enough. But the owner did not want to wait, but in vain.

Dynastarter

However, it is not only the engine that can make a motorcyclist clearly see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is a problem with the dynastarter.

. The engineers of the Tula plant installed it in Muravya, instead of a conventional alternating current generator.

Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the instrument panel while the moped is running, it means you are running out of charge. This happens because the generator is not producing alternating current. To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly in the dynastarter. There may be three main causes of problems:

difficulty in rotor operation (dirt getting into the collector or dust accumulation);
freezing or wear of brushes;
violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.

Since in most cases the operation of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped operating book. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate the rubbing parts, and under no circumstances throw away the parts.

Photo report: Disassembling the engine of the Ant scooter

I recently came across a miracle of Soviet technology called an “ant scooter” for repairs. The engine of this “ant” showed no signs of life. Therefore, I didn’t even bother diagnosing it, and immediately began the overhaul, which I started with its complete disassembly. Moreover, its owner asked that everything be done at the highest level, and the highest level of repair involves a complete disassembly of the engine with subsequent troubleshooting of all components and mechanisms (in my understanding, of course).

We’ll have such a wow copy on the menu today, it’s moderately well-kept, which of course makes us happy.

general information

Repair of gearbox VAZ 2107 5 mortar video. manual transmission repair vaz 2107 5 mortar

The Soviet cargo scooter has a reliable metal trike, made in the form of a platform with a tailgate. Ant's trike is quite roomy. The platform's carrying capacity is 250 kilograms, which allows the Ant scooter to be actively used for household needs. Thus, a cargo scooter allows you to transport:

fertilizers;
seedlings;
hives;
Construction Materials.

Motor vehicles are distinguished by maneuverability and unpretentiousness. In the garage, the Ant scooter takes up about the same space as a bulky motorized vehicle with a sidecar. Ant's turning radius is about 3.5 meters.

Characteristics of the Ant scooter

In winter, a cargo moped operates using a mixture of M6/3-10G/1 engine oil and A-76 gasoline, and in summer it requires the M8B grade.

If we compare the Ant scooter with a sidecar motorcycle, then in terms of operational fuel consumption the advantages will be on the side of the former. A cargo moped “eats” 8 liters/100 kilometers. It is also much lighter than a motorcycle with a sidecar - its weight is 240 kilograms.

Characteristics of the Ant scooter

The scooter is distinguished by high maneuverability and maneuverability, as well as small dimensions. In the garage it will take up as much space as a heavy motorcycle with a sidecar.

The Soviet scooter "Ant", which is still popular, has the following technical characteristics:

Length – 2.68 m.
Width – 1.25 m.
Height – 1.07 m.
Dry weight – 240 kg.
Load capacity – 250 kg.
Speed – about 30 km/h.
Gasoline engine, two-stroke, 11 hp.
4-speed gearbox + reverse.
Drum brakes with mechanical drive on each wheel.

Among the advantages of a moped it is worth noting:

Small turning radius – 3.5 m.
The lightness of the Ant scooter; motorcycles significantly predominate in weight.
Low cost - only used devices are available on the market.

There are also disadvantages:

There are a lot of used equipment on the market.
The engine has high fuel consumption - from 8 liters. per 100 km. But more often this figure is closer to 10 - 11 liters. per 100 km. due to increased wear.
Frequent breakdowns due to low reliability, especially of the engine.

Ant owners have the most questions about the engine. After all, I want to moderate my appetite for fuel consumption.

Device Description

The Ant is much lighter than ordinary motorcycles, so everyone dreamed of owning one. The approximate weight was only 240 kg, which is small considering that it could transport loads several times heavier than itself. Actually, it is because of this that he received the name Ant.

Scooter Ant

Another advantage of the scooter was and is that you can buy it for a small amount of money. So, you can buy an Ant scooter for only 30,000-50,000 rubles.

Engine

The Ant engine is single-cylinder. At the same time, it is quite voracious, so it’s hard to call a scooter an economical vehicle. After all, even a new Ant engine consumes about 8 liters of 80-grade gasoline per hundred, and what can we say about used equipment? After all, if the piston or gearbox is slightly worn out, then the costs increase to 10 liters per hundred. In this case, you can replace damaged spare parts, but it is not easy to buy them, since they are rarely found on sale.

Motor scooter engine Ant

You can buy an already assembled Ant engine, but such luxury is a little expensive.

Suspension

In general, the Ant scooter is a very durable piece of equipment. The front wishbone suspension is especially well executed. It can last for decades. Many scooter users even claim that it is made better than modern versions of telescopic forks.

Nowadays, most fans of the Ant scooter install rear shock absorbers from a scooter instead of front shock absorbers, because the former are currently in short supply.

The rear suspension is independent. The gearbox drives the rear wheel. This is facilitated by a roller chain running through it. At the same time, the gearbox itself is made quite well. It is located in the very center of the rear axle, making it easy to remove if necessary.

Easy to repair

Thanks to its light weight, the owner of this equipment can easily turn over the Ant scooter, which will allow him to easily carry out repair work. To change a tube, tire or even gearbox, it is absolutely not necessary to remove the wheel.

The scooter is large in size, making the equipment excellent for work in rural areas.

The scooter can reach a maximum speed of 50-60 km/h.

How to disassemble and reassemble the engine of the Ant scooter?

The motor design is simple. But even this does not protect it from breakdowns, which are often associated with age. You shouldn’t just disassemble the engine, but if the following symptoms appear, you should take up the tools:

Startup problems.
Oil leak.
Lack of traction.
Increased background noise.
The winding lever does not return to its place.

Possible breakdowns:

Worn seals.
Poor quality assembly after previous repair.
CPG failure.
Worn bearings.
The return spring in the kickstarter has broken.

Note! Before overhauling the power plant, it is not necessary to wash it. Just drain the oil and remove it from the frame.

Cylinder block

After unscrewing several bolts, you need to remove the cylinder head. Pay attention to the worn cylinder head gasket. Opposite the outlet window, you should probe the so-called excavation. If a characteristic wave or step is felt, then such a cylinder needs to be changed or bored.

The piston should be examined for wear. Some “Kulibins” manage to refine it with sandpaper.

Clutch

Removing the clutch cover and kickstarter shaft. Pay attention to the return spring - it often breaks and the kickstarter does not return to its place. Also at this point you can check the timing chain tension.
Clutch disassembly. To do this, you will need to unscrew the nuts and remove the pressure plate from the basket.
The lock washer must be bent and a stick must be inserted under the tooth of the main gear sprocket. Please note that the threads on the crankshaft journal nut are right-handed. The nut needs to be unscrewed.
There will be another lock washer that needs to be straightened. We take a puller and fix the clutch drum. The clutch nut has a left-hand thread.
The disc and drum are removed, as well as the clutch basket is removed from the shaft along with the chain and drive sprocket.

Dinostarter

Remove the following elements:

Cooling casing.
Ignition chopper cam, but provided that the power plant was not converted to a magneto. In this case, it is necessary to fix the dyno starter rotor. This can be done using the cooling fan or by fixing the crankshaft with improvised means.
The rotor is dismantled using a puller - standard or homemade.

As a result, the rotor was removed.

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What is the model

The Ant motorcycle features a reliable metal trike, made in the form of a platform with a rear side. Moreover, such a trailer is large enough so that many different items can fit into it. The vehicle is widely used to transport:

seedlings;
building materials;
fertilizers;
beehives, etc.

On the other hand, the Ant moto is quite maneuverable and unpretentious. The turning radius of the bike reaches 3.5 m. The vehicle does not take up much space in the garage.

In the winter season, the Ant moped should be filled with a mixture of motor oil and 76 gasoline. In the summer he drives on M8B fuel.

Compared to sidecar motorcycles, this bike is not only lighter, it also takes less fuel. At the same time, the vehicle cannot be called economical. Ant 2 requires about 8 liters of mixture to operate, and after the piston system wears out, this figure increases to 10 liters.

The Ant cargo scooter has a fairly simple design.

As a result, you do not need to have any special knowledge or skills to repair it. In addition, repairs can be performed almost anywhere, without having to go to a workshop. At the same time, such a device, like a large number of post-Soviet vehicles, breaks down quite often.

At the same time, the vehicle looks very modest. Photos of the Ant scooter show us a standard tricycle with a small platform at the back. The designers of the model did not add any special elements - everything was just the most necessary and practical.

Several different configurations were available, including vehicles with an additional passenger seat, as well as a moped with a covered body. At the moment, there are many analogues of the Ant motorcycle, photos of which strongly resemble the original vehicle. This is especially true for eastern countries. Due to increased traffic, three-wheeled motorcycles have become the most popular means of transportation in Asia.

Video test drive of the power of the Ant scooter:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=2MhpRbXWPT0

Spare parts price

Despite the fact that the production of the device stopped long ago, you can still find new spare parts for it that are produced by the industry. Some parts are imported, some come assembled. Supplied in sets:

Clutch discs.
Gaskets for power plant and gearbox.
Nuts.
Pipes.
Levers.

The necessary parts can be found on the Internet using store catalogs. Prices for spare parts for the Ant scooter are fair. Here are some examples:

Clutch disc – 400 rub.
Kickstarter shaft – 1100 rub.
Front shock absorber – 1600 rub.
Gearbox seals – 100 RUR.
Piston – 2500 rub.
Gearbox – 14,000 rub.
Wheel hub – 2000 rub.

Judging by the prices, the device is more than cheap to repair. This is an important operational property for people in rural areas.

The main disadvantages of a scooter and its modernization

Motor scooter Ant and his carburetor

The Ant scooter, like any technology, in addition to its positive qualities, also had disadvantages. At the same time, the existing shortcomings could be attributed both to structural ones, originally inherent in the device, and to operational ones, arising during the operation of the equipment.

According to reviews from owners, structural defects that required rework or the most frequent repair of a particular unit include:

an unsuccessful electrical circuit of the scooter, often leading to failure of components (din-starter, relay-regulator, ignition coil), especially in rainy weather;
an undeveloped gearbox device often with poor-quality factory assembly led to a crash during 2nd or 3rd gear operation. To fix it, the owners had to study the structure of the box itself, as well as how to properly disassemble and then reassemble the gearbox after repair;
a small difference in fuel levels between the tank and the carburetor chamber led, when there was little fuel in the tank, to running on a lean mixture or stopping the engine.

The most common operational deficiencies are:

unstable ignition on the Ant requiring frequent adjustments;
short service life of brake pads;
loss of hydraulic fluid from shock absorbers, requiring disassembly, refilling and reassembly of shock absorbers for repairs;
malfunction of the electrical equipment of the starter dyno under the influence of dirt, water, dust. Repairs were carried out by disassembling and reassembling, checking the electrical circuit, searching for and replacing the failed element;
occurrence of cracks in the frame;
oil leak in the gearbox.

Very often, the owners, having gained experience in operating the Ant scooter, carried out modernization. But before starting to implement the changes, the following issues were resolved:

How much is it?
What will the modified Ant look like?
How to find and collect the necessary materials for upgrading?
How much will the scooter weigh after the modification and how will this affect the technical characteristics?
How long will it take to remodel?

After receiving positive answers to these questions, work on changes was carried out. Tuning the Ant scooter, which made it possible to give it additional properties, boiled down to the following basic alterations:

Installation of a dump body for transportation of bulk cargo.
Change of appearance design.
Installation of a coupling device that allows you to work with various trailed and semi-trailer devices and equipment.

Versatility, cost and maintainability allowed the TMZ Ant scooter to be compared in terms of production volume and popularity with such best Soviet models of motor vehicles as the heavy M 72 Ural motorcycle and the light road motorcycle for the Minsk 125 village.

Previous entry Izh Jupiter 3 - technical characteristics, review Next entry Izh Jupiter 4 - technical characteristics, improvement

Tuning the Ant scooter

In terms of tuning the Soviet Ant vehicle, the owners can’t think of anything. After all, these are often tech-savvy people who like to spend time in the garage. Several directions can be distinguished:

Weight loss. To do this, you will need to remove “extra” equipment. This includes body kit in the form of wings, hood and fairings, as well as all electrical equipment. To transport goods around the village in the summer, all this is unlikely to be needed.
Increased output from the power plant . To do this, cut off the dynostarter shaft. The operation will add power and dynamism. The recoil during starting is leveled by trimming the crankshaft.
Installation of other wheels. Front 4.5 - 9, and rear 7 - 10. Cross-country ability and speed will increase.
Improvement of the piston group . You can buy a piston with three rings and make an additional window in the cylinder to supply the fuel mixture.
Magneto and increasing the efficiency of the cooling system are additional tuning.

In terms of engine tuning, some owners took radical measures and installed a Lifan engine (Lifan 188f), which has a volume of 400 cubic meters, on the Ant scooter. cm. And its power is 13 hp. A distinctive feature of this assembly is the variator and centrifugal clutch.

A centrifugal clutch is not the best option for trucks, since when driving on rough terrain on a loaded scooter at low speeds, it may slip. And this incapacitates him.

What modifications of the “Ant” scooter are there in the video:

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During the union, I worked in the Department of Irrigation Systems, and I know well all the nuances of operating Ant. And in our time, craftsmen remade the scooter in order to squeeze all the power out of it, and it worked. Ant was considered to have one shortcoming - poor stability at speed. If a stone or stump got under the front wheel at speed, the scooter would overturn. Many of my friends suffered because of their recklessness. But overall Ant is a great thing.

Guys, do you think there will be enough power for a tourist if you put the 139th engine on the box from the TMZ200? The 139th c pulled normally, although it weighs 20 kg less than the assembled tourist itself

Functions and tasks of the electrical circuit

Having familiarized yourself with the electrical circuit that is relevant for Ant scooters, it is also worth talking about what functions and tasks it performs.

Yes, there are not many components here. In fact, the manufacturer used only the most basic elements necessary to complete the tasks assigned to Ant.

Therefore, the scheme is focused on 3 tasks:

Ignition of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. A carburetor engine is used here. When ignition occurs, the piston begins to move. It transmits torque to the flywheel. This ensures the movement of the scooter.
Starting a cold and warm engine. The battery plays an important role here, as does a clean and serviceable spark plug.
Supply of electric current to consumers. These are lighting fixtures, dashboard lamps, as well as signals and sound device.

In fact, all electrical equipment is connected to each other by one wire. The metal body of the scooter acts as the second conditional wire.

The scooter was supplied with very high-quality wiring insulation from the factory. This is due to the fact that Ant scooters had to work in difficult conditions.

There is nothing fundamentally difficult about maintenance. It is usually sufficient to periodically clean the contact terminals and also check the electrical circuit with a multimeter.

If some component of the electrical circuit fails, you need to determine the source of the fault, eliminate it and restore it. The owner of a motor scooter, Ant, can easily do all this with his own hands.