Homemade all-terrain vehicle made from a Dnepr MT10-36 motorcycle

Bright, stylish, but still Dnepr

Looking at this motorcycle, different emotions immediately appear in me.
On the one hand, the author of the project had a hand and spent a lot of time creating this “horse”, but on the other hand, I don’t see much point in them. It is unlikely that this homemade seat will be more comfortable than the standard one. Exhaust

- the highlight of the whole design. As for me, the “cans” are too massive for the pipes that go directly to the cylinders. I think if they were made thicker in cross-section, this modification would look somewhat more impressive.

The colors here are extremely bright and dull

, but this is
a matter of taste
. And, according to the classics of the genre, we are witnessing the abandonment of the steering wheel and the fact that the author of the project gave preference to clip-ons, completely cutting down the ability to move around on this motorcycle.

Carburetors and ignition

Tuning a Ural motorcycle engine affects all engine systems, including ignition and carburetors. It is recommended to read the information: how to properly configure Ural carburetors. The standard ignition is so outdated that it is not even suitable for everyday driving, let alone anything else. It is desirable to install a microprocessor ignition with the possibility of an automatic advance angle. This article will help you set up the electronic ignition system. Ideally, such an ignition would be installed with a programmable controller with the ability to adjust the firmware. Such ignition systems have another useful feature - speed cut-off. This will prevent over-torque of a heavily boosted engine. Well, for maximum spark strength, in combination with a new ignition, you can use a coil from the Oka or Gazelle. Branded high-voltage wires with silicone insulation and internal resistance are required, for example from Tesla from VAZ 2108. They will ensure an uninterrupted spark in any weather and eliminate the possibility of spark breakdown to ground. As for carburetors, you will need to install Japanese vacuum carburetors with a diffuser diameter of 32 to 36 mm, followed by selection of jets, synchronization and adjustment with a gas analyzer. Tuning on a dynamometer is highly advisable, where you can test different settings and ignition timing and get the most out of your motorcycle tuning!

About my Dnepr MT 10-36 and a little about the previous ones (Voskhod and IZh). Hi all! My name is Yura. 2016, January, there’s not much to do except get into tanks and I decided to write about my Dnepr MT 10-36 and not only about it. First, a short introduction.

I’ll start with my first truly motorcycle, Voskhod-3 (not 3M). I bought it in 2002 (before that there were a motorboat ZiF (not ZiD!), Planet-3, Planet-4, but not mine or without documents and not for long, so I’ll start with Voskhod). I bought it in the fall, it had been sitting in the garage of the previous owner for 5 years with old gasoline in the tank, but oddly enough, he started it up in front of me and I almost got there under my own power :). It stalled near my work and I thought, why not? I’ll download it to work and during breaks I’ll slowly sort through it. All winter he took it apart and put it back together again, parts were painted, a new piston was installed, there was a turner and welder, a bunch of advisers (I worked in the garage of a passenger car company). Everything was ready by spring. Already in the process of riding I received category A (there were aircraft), I took the driving test in Minsk and I was unpleasantly surprised by the ease of driving this motorcycle, compared to my own. Went for one season. Why? Briefly about Voskhod: reliable, unpretentious, no battery needed, contactless ignition, consumption 3 liters (according to the passport 4.4), lightweight - these are the advantages. Disadvantages (for me): low (I’m 182 cm tall), no matter how you adjust the footrests and steering wheel, it’s uncomfortable to sit on, rolly - I only fell at Voskhod :), along the highway it gets blown away by the wind from trucks (I’ve traveled more than once to a regional city 400 km away both ends), I was not happy with the speed. I realized that this was a little different (I don’t really like riding around the place). But I gained experience and an understanding of what I needed from a motorcycle. As a result, in the spring of 2004, Voskhod was sold for even more than it was bought for (1100 rubles and 2700 rubles). There were several buyers, but I gave it to the one I liked.

Here is a photo.

More. And further.

Immediately a newspaper, advertisements and then I purchased an IZH-U 4K, blue, in good-looking condition. This is something like this (photo not mine).

Why Jupiter? A friend had Jupiter and he convinced me! Two cylinders, power, speed and all that. Then it turned out that the owner had removed it from the register (a trip to the traffic police did not give anything, it was removed, which means it does not exist, they told me). I had to look for Jupiter in any condition, but with documents. I found a rusty and dead Jupiter 5. Something like this (photo not mine).

It's winter again, disassembling everything and reassembling again, fortunately there are 2 sets of spare parts :). Replacement of piston, replacement of crankshafts, bearings. Both strollers went into scrap metal (I didn’t know about the intricacies of passing the technical inspection of motorbikes with strollers at that time ). As a result, the frame, wheels and tail were left from the Yu-4, the engine was assembled on the Yu-5 crankcase. I skated for two seasons. What can I say about Jupiter: + the one I rebuilt with my own hands is just as reliable and unpretentious as Voskhod, once the ignition was adjusted it worked for all three seasons, + the design is much more thoughtful and serious (compared to Voskhod), the landing is much more comfortable (I raised the steering wheel a little with spacers), +felt much more confident on the highway, +gasoline consumption was 4-4.5 liters (according to the passport 5.5), +semi-automatic gearbox (+10 for comfort), +changed the mufflers to one from Planet 5 (the sound is super!), + the tank is enough to travel 400 km and there is still some left, + two cylinders (once 150 km from home one pot failed, I drove 100 kilometers on the other until I found the reason). Cons: - cruising speed is 75-80 km (you start turning the engine - vibration, it’s unpleasant to drive, perhaps it was necessary to balance the engine, but this was higher mathematics then), - trucks blow off on the highway again (but less!), - engine lubrication is not separate, clutch in an oil bath (no matter how you adjust it, it either leads or slips, I don’t know if your hands are crooked). In 2006 (2 years passed), the power of attorney expired, I tried to renew it, it didn’t work out, I decided to sell (then I really regretted it). On the day of sale, the motorcycle took revenge on me - I was riding alone with the buyer, I didn’t have enough power to avoid the oncoming traffic - an accident. At Jupiter: the rear left turn is broken, the homemade trunk is slightly bent. VAZ 2107: the left headlight is broken, the front bumper is bent, the left front fender is torn, the driver is in a state of hysterics. The passenger and I escaped with a slight fright and carefully fell onto our sides after the impact (the passenger did not refuse the purchase ). Based on the results of the sale: I ended up with money (10 thousand), even taking into account what was sold, I swore off ever having another motorcycle or car (but a year later I did buy a car ).

Unfortunately, the photo did not survive - a terrible omission!

It was in 2006, I became interested in computers, games and forgot about motorcycles. Until 2014. In the winter of 2014, I met my future wife, and in the spring, while at her house, I heard that a Dnepr motorcycle had been sitting in the barn for 8 years and it would be nice to sell it or scrap it. Everything turned upside down in my soul - a motorcycle, heavy, no one needed! Of course, the barn was opened, the motorcycle was inspected (it was standing on logs, with a sidecar) and even washed right in the barn. It turned out that it had never been damaged, was in good condition in appearance and was quite suitable for use. The documents actually burned down in a fire, but that didn’t scare me, I had experience finding documents :). However, it stood for another year, until May 2015 (wedding, home improvement, etc., etc.). Here he is.

More.

And here I am on vacation - I drag out the motorcycle, disconnect the stroller (my wife helps), load it into the car, and roll the motorcycle in my hands 2 km to my house.

I’m solving the problem of documents: newspaper advertisements, 3 Dnieper for sale, I call, one is already sold, one is almost sold, I’m on my way to the third. Grandfather moves to another city, sells all his property, including his Dnieper. The color is the same - black, the year of manufacture is the same - 1982! Just what you need. We start haggling, my grandfather set a price of 12,000 and despite all my efforts he did not budge. Well, okay, the next day I come with money and printed contracts (thanks, they simplified the whole purchase and sale), we formalize it. Grandfather demonstrates a super-starting method - he scoops gasoline from the tank with a bottle cap, splashes it into the air vent, presses the kickstarter, and the equipment naturally starts right away! But as the engine rattles, from previous experience it is clear that everything is going to be overhauled, I notice this to my grandfather. He waves his hands - I’ve never climbed into the engine and you’d better not climb into it, everything’s fine! (The speedometer shows 29 thousand km) Warms up the engine and offers to take it for a ride. I’m a little scared - I haven’t ridden a motorcycle for 9 years, I haven’t ridden with a sidecar at all! I sit down, try to drive, he goes the wrong way, turns are impossible! I miss the road all the time, the neighbors watch with pleasure, I feel scared and happy at the same time! Finally I felt ready to drive home (2 km) through the city. We say goodbye, set off, and in 2nd gear I hobble carefully around the busy roads. It seems like I’m not in a car, but occupying the entire lane, oncoming cars seem to be driving straight at me! I am convinced that I will never travel with a stroller. But you still need to go to the MREO for a technical inspection. I check all the lighting equipment, oil in the crankcases, wheels, clean them a little and wash them. In the evening my wife comes, she is terrified! Another monster with a stroller. I reassure you that these are just documents, everything unnecessary will be scrapped. It’s scary to travel alone, you need help. I’m calling a friend, he has Planet 5, he’s a dear person! He promises to go with me, but on his motorcycle, as an escort. In the stroller there is a car battery, a tool box, a spare wheel, a fire extinguisher, a first aid kit and a hazard warning sign - everything is serious! I don't know yet what to expect from him. We go to the nearest technical inspection, some money, they take photos, write out a piece of paper - 20 minutes of business. I need insurance, I leave the Dnieper right there, we land on the Planet, we fly to Rosgosstrakh, some money, 30 minutes of business - done. We're going to MREO. I'm no longer afraid to drive in 3rd gear. The Dnieper engine thunders and marks the road with oil. We go in for an inspection, go get some forms, and some more money. Total: 350 technical inspection, 600 insurance for six months, 900 traffic police fee. I leave the sign the same, it is already Russian, and I share equally. As soon as we came out with the papers, the inspector was coming, no emotions, he indifferently checked the number on the sign and signed. I take a turn: everything is civilized, a ticket, a call over the loudspeaker, after half an hour I hand over the documents, after another 30 minutes I receive them. That's it, I'm the boss! We roll out of the parking lot onto the street, after the Dnieper there is a puddle of oil, quickly get out of here! It’s a little disappointing that the registration certificate says “WITH STROLLER” in capital letters. Well, it’s okay, before this I read the forums, it seems like everyone has no time for strollers now, I think there will be no problems. Freshly purchased Dnieper.

And further.

I have three weeks until the end of my vacation, but I need to solve so many problems: which motorcycle should I keep as my main one? how to have time to go somewhere? How to get by with minimal disassembly and assembly? During the remaining time, I inspected the engine of the purchased Dnepr - oil flows in a stream, especially when it is hot. I removed the valve covers, adjusted the valves, and found the plate that had fallen out from under the valve. The gaps were such that dear mother. Engine noise has decreased by 2 times. I thought about it and decided that it would be really scary to drive somewhere with such an engine. I examined the engine of the first Dnepr (9000 km on the speedometer!) and decided to drive it after all. The engine number is not important now, it helps a lot. I twist the signs from one frame to another and that’s it. By the way, when I figured out the ignition and started the engine, which had been sitting for almost 10 years, compared to my grandfather’s (which I bought for documents), it was practically inaudible! Still, 9 thousand and 29 thousand km are a huge difference. I rode it for a bit, the sound of the engine is almost the same as that of my former Jupiter (this is when in the saddle, if you stand to the side, then there is a difference). In the time remaining before the trip, I managed the following: I went through the brakes, wheel bearings, re-aligned the wheels, put on the best tires I had (the youngest was made in 1983, albeit new!), replaced the generator, the relay regulator, the turn relay with a Zhiguli one, inspected the driveshaft and lubricated the crosspiece, changed all the oil, made arches from the 25th pipe and a side step in a shock order, bought and installed some Chinese mirrors, installed and adjusted the K-65T carburetors (the carburetors were almost new, there were: K-65T on the left, K-65T on the right K-301 on my grandfather’s, two K-301 on mine), completely replaced the ignition. The previous experience of Voskhod and IZH was very useful. Some are more complicated, some are simpler, basically all the technical solutions are Soviet - simple, cheap and cheerful.

First long-haul. And now there are 2 days left until the end of the vacation, I have to go, but out of fear: 1) I didn’t climb into the engine, adjusted the valves, replaced the spark plugs and that’s it 2) the weather forecast for 2 days - rain in places 3) the reaction of the traffic police on the Dnieper without a stroller is unknown 4 ) no trunk 5) tires are as old as the motorcycle - 33 years old! Travel 200 km there and the same amount back. And here it is in the morning, Saturday, I start getting ready, this and that, by the way, I finished the arcs on the same day, ready only by 18.30. Here it is - the arches and the running board are drying.

I don't mind the photos :)

The sky is gloomy, but there is no rain. I leave at 19.00 and expect to be there by 23.00. I haven’t left the city yet, the engine stalled, stopped, turned off the ignition, turned it on - nothing lights up, I go to the fuses - it’s blown, I change it to a bug. I turn on the ignition and start it - it immediately stalls, a stream of smoke comes out from under the dash! We arrived, the time was 19.30, 200 km ahead. Well, don't push me home. I disassemble the tidy, find a melted wire, the speedometer backlight has shorted out, and wrap it with electrical tape. I turn on the ignition - everything is normal, I change the fuse again. I start it up, everything works. I collect my clothes scattered along the side of the road and draw conclusions - a screwdriver, a knife, a piece of wire, electrical tape in my pocket. It makes absolutely no difference to whoever is watching - we have to go! I get to the track around 20.00. After 40 km I stop, let the engine cool down, rest for myself, and inspect the motorcycle. Everything looks fine, I walk along the side of the road, remembering the old days - everything comes back: the road, you and the motorcycle - freedom from everything! All the fuss is left behind, all problems and worries seem worthless. This is what we are going for. And of course adventures, where would we be without them. About 22.00, I’ve driven halfway, it’s starting to get dark, stop, have a quick snack. After half an hour it starts to rain, nothing serious, but it’s also getting dark. I slowed down, although I was already driving about 70 km per hour. The light rain doesn’t stop, people ahead signal with a glowing stick - road repairs, one-way travel. I stop and wait. Finally they allow him to go, a road worker with a walkie-talkie and a baton - he has to stand here all night. The rain gradually intensifies, as if the candles were flooded! I’m already driving with my visor open, wearing glasses, so at least I can see something. Oncoming trucks and overtaking trucks shower me and the motorcycle, a homemade Soviet fairing helps a lot, it absorbs the splashes, I practically don’t get wet. And then the right cylinder starts to malfunction, then it seizes, then it stalls, finally it stalls completely, I’m driving on the left pot, looking for a stop. According to the law of meanness, of course there is none. The left one pulled me up a small hill and stalled. Here comes the adventure, right there! It’s dark, raining and a stalled motorcycle, but there’s a village ahead, we need to push. I’ve been pushing for about 20 minutes, there are no stops, there are no awnings, there aren’t even any good trees, I’m already thinking about knocking on some house, asking for a canopy or a barn. But here we go to the side, two poles with compasses, and I have with me a 3 by 4 meter tent with guy ropes, I tie 2 corners to a pole, 2 to a motorcycle, and climb under the canopy. The engine is still warm, if the rain does not fall on the pots, I hope that everything will dry out. I want to sit down, but everything is wet, the grass is knee-deep, there is nothing to sit on, I conveniently forgot the rug. The rain either subsides or intensifies again, cars fly along the highway, followed by clouds of spray, especially behind the trucks. I really don't want to go back on the road. I look at the time - exactly 00.00. I take out my tablet and GPS receiver and find out where I am. Then a USB modem, I connect to the Internet, look at the weather forecast: everything is the same - rain in places along the entire route. I’m squatting, what should I do? I decide to wait until the rain subsides or dawn. I had a snack and sat there until 2 am. The rain began to subside, I no longer had any desire to sit, if I started it, I would at least somehow drive on. They have treacherous thoughts of turning back. I rolled up the awning, tied up my things, tried to start it, strangely enough it started right away! Joy knows no bounds, the motorcycle did not let us down, the difficulties are temporary, and a feeling of love for the Dnieper immediately flares up! I continue driving in 3rd gear, the rain has subsided, but has not stopped, the engine runs without interruption, I don’t need anything more. Ahead is a gas station with a large canopy - just what you need. I stop by, slowly enter the gas station premises - it’s Lukoil, everything is shiny, sparkling, I found myself in another world, wet, tired, in a rain jacket and combat boots! The engine doesn’t start right away, but it starts, and I drive on. Here is the traffic police post in front of Bryansk, three traffic cops are scurrying around, happily rushing towards me with a stick. I slowed down in advance, I stop, the side step is long and rests on the asphalt, I try to put it on the center, the guys offer help, exclaim: where are you from, where, how are you going on this, and in the rain. I’m happy to talk, but they don’t have time, they ask for a license and insurance, not a word about the stroller, wish you a safe journey and immediately run off to slow down the car. The Dnepr starts up right away and doesn’t disgrace me. I take the bypass road, take a break at the first stop, the stop is full of holes, I hardly park the motorcycle so that it doesn’t drip on the spark plugs and the seat, and I have a snack myself. At about 3 a.m., the sky is already starting to turn blue, and the rain is slowly drizzling. I’m glad that my feet are still dry, only my jacket is wet. I drive further, somewhere I need to turn off, but I don’t know for sure, I have to stop and look at the navigator, but the rain has gotten heavier. At some point I fell into a rut on the asphalt filled with water, and my boots immediately flooded. I'm looking for a stop, a shelter, as always there is nothing suitable. Finally I found a piece of rusty iron on 4 posts on the side of the road - it’s like a stop. It doesn’t stop rain and wind, but you can find a place where it doesn’t rain on the tablet. I decide on the road and move on. Strange, but the rain does not interfere with the engine. Well, here I am, a dacha near Bryansk, where friends live, it’s about 4 in the morning, my boots are wet, my pants are wet, only my T-shirt and shorts are dry. I wrap the motorcycle in a tent, tie guy wires to the spokes, undress and go to bed, but today I go back to work tomorrow. After lunch the weather gets better, the so-called. Partly cloudy, sometimes even the sun is shining. On the way back I borrow dry pants, socks and sneakers; there is no time and nowhere to dry. Going home.

The road home was like a resort, dry, light, warm! And wearing sneakers turned out to be much more comfortable to drive, brake, and change gears. There were no more adventures, once I was overtaken by two tourists, either Hondas or BMWs, I didn’t have time to notice, they flashed emergency lights at me, and that’s all I saw. I was driving somewhere around 80, probably 120-130. Another nine overtook, the guy leaned out the window, shouted something, waved his arms, I still didn’t understand what he wanted to say. I arrived home around 10 pm, well, my vacation was not in vain!

I went for the second time on September 12, I need to return my pants :). Before the trip: I went through the shock absorbers, front and rear, filled in fresh oil (all the insides were like new), went through the steering column (a third of the balls were missing from the bearings, the nut was unscrewed, and I thought that the shock absorbers were knocking), checked the brakes and driveshaft again , changed the oil everywhere, looked into the carburetors (by the way, I never synchronized them, I just set the same settings, in my opinion everything works the same way), welded the trunk (+50 to comfort!) Photo before the trip.

I won’t describe the second trip, there is a video on YouTube, the title: “A short trip on a motorcycle Dnepr MT 10-36 Klintsy-Bryansk-Klintsy” 3 parts, if you’re interested, you’ll find them. The video recorder and camera were with me the first time, but I didn’t even remember them. Motorcycle traveler Alexey Korovin was right - you need to take pictures of everything, always, even if you feel bad and scared and don’t want to at all.

For the next season, the plans are: to put a 9th pair in the rear axle, to sort out the piston (forged pistons for Zhiguli rings), to sort out the heads, order normal tires, review the wiring, there are thoughts about making active oil cooling, changing the tidy, a dry filter from Zhiguli and etc... What will be done, time will tell. There are a lot of videos on this topic on YouTube, the same Travnikov, Denis from Kaliningrad with his Ural, a fellow countryman from near Bryansk also with the Dnieper, etc. Saruman has already installed contactless ignition on an optocoupler, but did not travel far, mainly to work.

Impressions from the Dnieper over the season (I haven’t driven Japanese cars or BMWs :). Pros: +comfort (compared to Jupiter) on the highway, not particularly blown away by trucks, the suspension works just fine, you don’t feel any pits at all, +comfortable for tall (long) people, I’m 182 cm, at traffic lights my fully extended legs reach the ground + there is a lot of traction, it asks for 5th gear, + there is a reverse gear (once it could have been useful in the sand, but the road workers helped push it, there was nowhere to go forward), + we stopped it five times during the season, asking “where is the stroller?” not a word, +relatively reliable (starts in the rain!), +separate lubrication, +dry clutch, +excellent gearbox (neutral is caught between any gear, unlike Jupiter), +everything fits from the Urals except the engine and gearbox, +in cold weather weather conditions, starting the engine with a kick will keep you warm; + with a stock engine and 8th pair in the rear axle gives 100 km/h! (but this is terror) Cons: - I want a normal starter (short stops (shop) and urgent starts (undefined traffic jam) with a kickstarter are stressful in the heat), - water cooling (stops are needed not only for rest, but also to cool the engine), - availability of spare parts (for example, there are no good imported 19-inch tires for the rear wheel at all!), - the cruising speed (the engine rustles) of 80-85 km/h at stock in our time, I would say, is insufficient (trucks fly 90-100 and fly by quite unpleasantly often) but this can be treated with another pair of gears in the axle - you need to watch the brakes, it accelerates quickly, but does not stop quickly enough, more than once it flew through the necessary turns - it lies on its side in a turn somehow awkwardly (or is it just me?) - inconvenient for short people, you can’t reach the ground (the height of the saddle is 820 cm, but the Transalp is even higher - 820-850, although I didn’t sit) - it’s too heavy for pale young men, putting it on the center console requires some training, and when rolling out of the parking lot between cars, you’ll fall over it’s like two fingers on the asphalt and causes panic among the people sitting there (when placing it on the step, take into account the possibility of it falling on the other side); -when the device falls on its side, two tablespoons of oil spill out of the air (well, these are small things)

Current view.

Temporary placement of FUOZ Saruman with a switch, a coil under the tank.

This is probably the normal way: 175 cubic meters, 350, 650... and then what? Used Japanese? My thoughts revolve around Transalpa 600 :). Well, that seems to be all. If you don’t agree, write. Thanks to everyone who read, if it helps anyone, I will be glad. Good luck.

Where it all began

The production of motorcycles in Russia, or more precisely, in the USSR, began in the late 20s of the last century. The IZH and PMZ models, designed by designer Mozharov, had a heavy stamped frame and a huge 1200 cc engine, which nevertheless produced only 24 hp. With. At the same time, controllability disappeared already at 60 km/h.

Then, according to one version, third-party developments were used. In pre-war Germany, several models of the BMW R-71 motorcycle and drawings for them were purchased. According to the second version, the motorcycles were imported from Sweden. Having disassembled and modified the German cars to suit Soviet realities, the devices began to be produced at the Moscow and Gorky factories. During the war, production was evacuated to Irbit, in the Sverdlovsk region.

Be that as it may, the German R-71 became the progenitor of the serial M-72. The Soviet analogue was not a complete copy of the BMW: instead of a single-disc clutch, a double-disc clutch was installed, the tank volume became larger, the gear ratio was increased, which made it possible to more effectively overcome obstacles that are often encountered to this day in our country. We can say that this was the first tuning of the Ural. At that time, it wasn’t even “Ural”, but “Irbita”. Only with the M-62 model did motorcycles acquire their permanent name.

boost the engine MT Dnepr 11

I plan to install pistons from 412

I’ll ask a naive question: is it possible to solve the difference in the overall height by shortening/lengthening the connecting rods (say, when switching from a 41mm Kasik to a 38mm Zhigov one)? Have there been such experiments? (don’t throw cardans, please. I’m not a real welder! (C) )

If you have a head and hands, everything is possible...

There is a known collective farm with an extension of the crankshaft connecting rods of the Ural 650 for installation in the K-750\M-72. The connecting rods are cut and inserts are welded. Someone demonstrated such a shaft here, and it was pulled out of a working engine. Obviously, you can experiment on the Dnieper knee due to its disassembly, on the Ural knee, but it’s also possible.

Quite realistic for quiet use. The steel there is like nails. Cooked at once.

Tuning for the Ural motorcycle or its restoration

Here a lot depends on the condition and modification of the bike. If a representative of one of the latest lines arrives in your garage, which is in perfect order externally and runs, be prepared for the fact that remodeling it will turn out to be quite expensive - you will have to pay relatively a lot for components. Add to this the price of an iron horse that came off the assembly line, starting at 300,000 rubles, and think about whether the changes are worth such expenses.

It’s a different matter if you somehow become the owner of a rare specimen: restoring it is not just a matter of honor, but also quite a profitable business. By restoring a rare model, you will bring history back to life and get a status vehicle that can be sold for good money.

And the third case, if you have a very ordinary Ural with a cradle: tuning will allow you to diversify the design of an ordinary motorcycle or increase its technical characteristics and at the same time will cost a very reasonable amount.

Tuning the Dnepr motorcycle for the people

It is not uncommon for people to begin to invent and improve this motorcycle themselves, using all their technical knowledge and imagination.
And the reason for this was the availability of parts from which something new can be made or added to those already installed. High wear resistance and long service life only encourage many to tune the Dnepr motorcycle. This is precisely one of the main reasons to choose the Dnepr over any other motorcycle.

The Soviet Dnepr motorcycle is a classic example of the old-fashioned Soviet school of rough design. Therefore, many people prefer to customize its appearance and some structural components.

Moreover, remaking it is not a difficult task, compared to a foreign car. If you follow all the recommendations, you can transform this motorcycle very coolly. That is why workshops have appeared all over Russia that do tuning of the Dnepr motorcycle. And some even turn it into a real custom for the people.

What can be tuned in Dnepr?

At the time these motorcycles were released, their quality was at the highest level, so all the components and the design itself still actively serve all owners. But modern requirements for appearance and some technical characteristics force us to carry out cosmetic and internal modifications to the motorcycle. Of course, you can do the tuning of the Dnieper with your own hands, but if you don’t have enough knowledge, workshops are open in most cities where people are probably knowledgeable in modernizing Soviet motorcycles.

There are basic elements that need to be changed when tuning, and in this model the following elements can be improved or even replaced:

• exhaust pipe;
• almost the entire chassis, in particular the windshield, roll bars;
• engine;
• front fork.

You can also briefly discuss the refinement of each element. For example, to tune the exhaust system, you will need to install a forward flow system and nickel elbows, which you can do yourself. External tuning will contain a lot of chrome parts, so tuning the Dnepr engine will involve a polishing process. If you upgrade these two parts, your motorcycle will not only look great, but it will also sound great.

As for technical modernization, the above recommendations can be supplemented by installing a fifth gear on the Dnepr. It is unlikely that you will be able to do this kind of work yourself, so it is better to turn to specialists with experience. But the result will be justified; your vehicle will have reverse gear. But even this is not where the basic tuning ends, because some Dnepr models, depending on the year of manufacture, can be improved by installing an electric starter.

What do you need to know when tuning?

If you have an MT Dnepr motorcycle that is several decades old, you should be aware of its main disadvantage - the fuel system. Unfortunately, this model from KMZ did not receive an ideal fuel system, so many will be interested in improving this characteristic through tuning. Also, Dnepr owners will be interested in improving the oil system by installing a high-quality oil filter.

Engine tuning Dnepr

The main feature of any Dnepr MT model is the engine lubrication system. It should be improved first of all, since this is a disease of all Dnepr motorcycles. The problem is that the oil is poorly cleaned at low engine speeds (up to 3000 rpm). There is no oil filter in the engine. Its role is played by a “centrifuge”, which should be replaced with a “cap-plug” and an external automobile oil filter should be installed. And in the “guitar” of the engine, make grooves for the sealing rings for stable oil pressure.

This procedure will allow:

• increase the oil pressure in the system
• improve the quality of lubrication of the crankshaft and other rubbing parts
• increase oil change intervals
• double the service life of the Dnepr motorcycle engine

Now you don’t need to remove and disassemble the engine every 10,000 km to clean the centrifuge; you just need to replace the external oil filter with a new one.

When the oil supply system is back to normal, it's time to think about increasing power. Standard crankshaft bearings, connecting rods, as well as the crankshaft itself have a huge margin of safety! But the rings and pistons leave much to be desired. The ancient design of standard piston rings does not allow achieving high compression in the cylinders. To install VAZ car rings, you need to bore the motorcycle cylinders to the third repair size of 79mm and tuning the pistons.

Thanks to such rings and new pistons, you will not only get an increase in power from increased compression, but also get rid of oil wastage, excess carbon deposits in the cylinder heads and a clean exhaust. The starting of the motorcycle will be greatly improved. In addition to this, cut off 2mm of metal from the upper steps of the cylinders to increase the compression ratio and switch to 92-95 gasoline.

Let's move on to tuning the timing system - gas distribution mechanism. The main role of this process is played by the camshaft. The camshaft cam profile determines the torque range and the peak of maximum power. If you want to achieve maximum power, you need a camshaft from the MT 10-36 model.

Of course, a good way to increase power is tuned carburetors. As a rule, they can be found at Japanese motorcycle dismantling sites. An excellent option would be carburetors such as Keihin CVK32 and the like. Many carburetors are suitable for different ATVs and other equipment with a similar engine size.

It will be necessary to replace the old contact ignition system with a new microprocessor one. This could be either Sovek or Saruman, which is more perfect. Well, to realize such power on the highway, the 8th pair of gears in the gearbox must be replaced with a 9 or 10 pair.

Modification of stock Dnepr-11 1991

I’ve been reading articles for a long time and finally decided to write about my motorcycle and the history of its repairs and modifications. Maybe it will help someone.

I’ll write briefly about my path to getting started with motorcycles, because we’re talking about today’s motorcycle. Having repaired and ridden my father’s moped Karpaty-2 from 1989. decided to switch to a motorcycle. The purchased JAVA 638 with a broken fork brought only problems and there was no talk of skating. For those interested, here is the album “https://vk.com/album20195327_154020977”. My father-in-law helped out by giving me his IZH Yu-4 with a sidecar, which had been sitting in a metal garage in the village for 10 years. Having quickly brought it back to life with the help of a familiar motorcycle technician))) I began to master this device. Having suffered with the problems of this model (which I partially corrected) and due to the lack of documents in my hands, I began to look towards more powerful devices because... Izh did not impress me... He advertised the purchase of a Dnepr motorcycle. “Why the Dnieper and not the Urals?” — you ask, I’ll say that I liked the Dnepr in appearance, and it has more opportunities for “tuning” due to a more progressive lubrication system compared to the Urals. Quite by chance, an acquaintance gave him the phone number of his grandfather, who offered him the Dnieper. For a long time, one thing or another did not work out, but in the end it grew together. After installing the carbers and kicking the kickstarter for a long time, the engine finally started and my friend and I took it for a ride. I finally decided to take it. And so I bought a red Dnepr-11 with a stroller, produced in 1991. and mileage 5052 km. The garage, as you can see, is FULL of the Soviet style: a lot of rubbish and filled with all sorts of nonsense. At the time I brought the Dnepr, there were already 4 motorcycles in the garage: a mokik Karpaty-2, a disassembled Java-638, an Izh-Yu4 and half a Ural motorcycle. Dnepr still found its place, “dispersing” the others to the corners))) The very first thing we had to do was go through the wheel and steering column bearings, as well as the gearbox, because the old collar seal had been leaking for a long time and constantly: either the grandfather himself, or before him The collar was also put on incorrectly and the spring flew half out of its place, giving free rein to the oil, which negated all attempts to slow down. The advice of the former owner to “tighten it harder” would not have given anything - the pads were already pressed “to nothing” and I began to dig deeper. The initial replacement of the oil seal with a new one gave results, but not salvation. Also, on the large gear, it was necessary to replace the factory double lock washers with lock washers, since they did not fulfill their function and the bolts holding this gear to the hub were half unscrewed and the entire structure was flopping around. I installed turn signals from IZH at the back - screwed them directly into the brake light bracket (it turned out to be a funny Cheburashka when viewed from behind)))

Replaced the seat in the stroller. The seat itself is from an Izhevsk stroller, like from a Yu-4. The fastenings for it are built into the bottom, but the back is handmade: from a 40x40 profile pipe, they welded the same frame as before, and put on a leather cover from a car seat, with thick foam rubber inside. The lock was built in as standard, as were the hooks on the bottom. I had little experience, but thanks to OPPOSIT.ru I slowly dealt with the problems that arose).

Having skated the 2013 season, I summed up the results: 2 cars wrecked at the rear, one a little, the second more severely, and the money spent on it made me think about modifications to my horse. And it was the brakes... Actually, that’s where it all started. All season I had to constantly remove the rear wheel and wipe the pads with gasoline, as the brake began to slip literally after a week. At the end of the season, I already found out that oil was leaking not only from under the collar seal, but also along the axle. The question arose about the seal and, thanks to the Internet, I installed a rubber ring instead of a felt ring on the spacer sleeve in the gearbox. Yes, the inner surface of the gear, where this bushing is located, had to be treated for a long time with an emery roller of our own production, inserted into a screwdriver. At the same time, for some reason I unscrewed the screw screwed into the drainage hole from the outside. It became much better, but still the oily pads and leakage from the collar did their dirty work... A dent on the trunk from my shoulder)) The motorcycle clearly flew under the fender and was split between the car and the curb with the sidecar raised... The best part is that the motorcycle was almost not damaged: I only took off the windshield and glass and bent the steering wheel a little.

Now about the solution to the problem: “https://oppozit.ru/article85909.html” - oil seal from the hub of Suzuki Grand Vitara + 2! rubber rings on the spacer sleeve in the gearbox following the example of the Ural gearbox “https://uraldnepr.ru/forum/9-668-1”. It is better to select rings by taking with you a machined bushing and a machined gear. Of course, there were some incidents: in the first lathe (I asked for advice) they said that it was difficult to center the crankcase to properly machine the seat (under the oil seal you need to remove 1 mm from the diameter APPROXIMATELY - everyone has their own), they will try, but if they don’t center it, they’ll take it will not. YEAH, NOW! Quote: “Well, somehow it happened, it (the oil seal) somehow fits in freely. In general, this is how it is." I see an oval hole with a strong displacement, and an oil seal flying into it... Silent scene... To my indignation, they offered to make a bushing. I didn’t take any further risks and went to the factory, where they made me a perfectly aligned, perfect bushing. We also had to polish the crosspiece - it was completely untreated, which caused rapid wear of the seals. Replaced the double row bearing on the shank. I “zakolhozil” the large gear of the planetary gear - it is put on the hub and tightened with bolts, the catch was that it was possible to tighten this gear only with an offset, i.e. There was a gap between the inner surface of the gear and the hub and it kept shifting by placing a strip of tin around the entire circumference so that the gear was centered relative to the hub. The edge of the strip is bent in the form of a small flange to cling to the inner chamfer of this gear, i.e. it's inside the hub-gear assembly and prevents this "spacer" from falling out. Advice for beginners: carefully choose the place where you will order work and better take all the parts that need to be adjusted to each other. I assembled the unit, changed the pads from the purchased donor and in the new season my happiness knew no bounds. But first things first. )))

While the gearbox was being made, I started working on the engine and gearbox. The reason was banal curiosity, reinforced by the 6th!!! a feeling that something is wrong there. This was caused by poor clutch release, coupled with worn-out compression and vibration when driving in 1st speed. The autopsy showed: 1. Worn valve guides 2. Seats damaged by grandfather (tried to rip them off due to compression problems) 3. Worn valve runners 4. Worn rings and piston 5. Uneven wear in the cylinder 6. Sulfur wear on the liners 7. Loose left connecting rod cover 8. Loose and loose camshaft flange (the screws were turned out and barely reached the gear) 9. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING FACT - 2 ROLLER BEARINGS on the crankshaft 10. Wear of the tip of one of the rods 11. Gas breakdown on the outside of the guides (it turned out after pressing out) and 1 seat of irregular shape 12. The aluminum gasket under the left head is of the wrong size, which caused the tightening nuts of the left cylinder to loosen and gas breakthrough 13. The difference in the masses of the pistons is as much as 8 grams. 14. The race on the crankshaft journal at the FRONT ROLLER BEARING is loose 15. There is a lot of oil under the right valve cover (probably poor outflow through the drain pipe) 16. Problems with oil pressure after the engine warms up 17. It’s already my jamb - the thread on the rocker adjustment screw is pulled. This from major “troubles”, in addition to small ones. The decision was made - REPAIR! Definitely! Now about the solution, again thanks to OPPOSIT.ru, www.dnepromoto.com and user AIR1580 on yuotube:

cylinder head. The guides were replaced with Metelli 01-1916, which had to be shortened slightly to make room for the valve seals. The seals were supplied by Goetze and only on the intake valves. Well, naturally it takes a long time to process the seats; thanks to the sliding reamer, I ruined the seats, which is why I had to look for larger guides and order a gauge from the factory to check the seats for these guides))). By the way, if the guides fit into the seats almost without tension, there is a pressing method with Chinese glue 101 or 110, which gives an excellent result (advice from a friend of a car repairman). The guides were pressed out and pressed in by me using technology, i.e. mandrel and hot. To maintain the required depth, I placed a bearing that matched the size - the mandrel simply rested against it. Subsequent removal of the working edges on the saddles by an already familiar specialist, who almost cursed for the fact that I climbed in myself and beveled the corners))) The valves were replaced with automotive analogues: AE V91407 39.6x7.97x91.9 mm for the inlet and AE V91338 38.1x7 .97x91.9 mm per outlet. The valves were also ground in on a machine. The rocker arms have a plane for the locking nuts of the adjustment screws and a plane for contact with the valve compensator. The valve springs were taken used from a VAZ 2108 along with the upper and lower plates and new crackers for them. This was already a necessary measure due to other valves. I shortened the upper plates slightly so as not to break (well, suddenly) the valve seal. Heat-insulating gaskets were made from fiberglass. The inlet and outlet channels were also processed: slightly expanded, brought to the same attractive shape (on the right and left heads) and processed with fine sandpaper. The intake ones were generally very different: the left one was apparently larger than the right one. Drainage tubes are drilled to 4 mm. Well, new head gaskets were cut out of sheet copper using a “ballerina”.

Cylinders. I machined the cylinders to the 1st repair size (I took with me 2 sets of pistons of the 1st and 2nd repair sizes for measurements). I checked the pistons immediately on the counter using electric power. scales Yes, during assembly it later turned out that the pins that were standing were too big for the new pistons and fit in with good tension when the piston was very hot. And of course, adjusting the grooves on the piston to the rings))) Rings for the 1st repair with a small adjustment of the gap according to the manual, one-piece oil scraper. Engine. Front camshaft bearing replaced. A front ball bearing 6209 was purchased and installed on the crankshaft, the bearings were replaced with size 0 (a check revealed that there was practically no wear). The crankshaft was drilled to align the oil channels and the turner ordered a plug with a groove instead of a centrifuge. The unit was ordered in two parts so that the groove for the key could be drilled along the entire length. Then I simply connected it by welding.

A turner's mistake with the internal dimension gave me the opportunity to simply press it over the gear. The channel in the “guitar” was drilled out. The crankcase is treated from the inside, the holes for oil flow there are also brought back to normal. After weighing the connecting rods, I found a difference of only 1 gram. The fingers differed by 0.5 g. approximately, and I assembled two balancing sets: connecting rod-piston-pin.

Oil filter from VAZ on an adapter for a Muscovite. The oil pump has an outlet welded into a steel cover. The body and gears were ground, the channel for the pressure reducing valve was drilled out, metal was welded onto the side of it to create a new outlet channel, realized with a STRAIGHT steel tube, which is screwed into the new hole and comes out of the crankcase from the side. Metal is also welded onto the crankcase opposite this place. I drilled with the oil pump installed to ensure the holes were aligned. Next, threads are cut in the crankcase and in the oil pump, a homemade pressure seal is screwed into the crankcase, and a tube is screwed into the oil pump and secured with a nut.

Outside, a steel tube is connected to a copper one, which is connected to the adapter. The outlet of the purified oil is made into the hole for the pressure sensor through a tee (it seems also from the Muscovite’s oil system), into which the sensor is screwed. The adapter was secured to the frame on the engine mounting studs under the tank.

The design turned out to be surprisingly rigid and successful. The parts for creating this oil line are standard for oil systems, purchased from car dealerships and slightly modified. I also moved the oil intake point to the middle of the pan because there were problems with pressure when the motorcycle was going uphill. The gasket on the pallet did not withstand the shooting and it was necessary to install a rubber one instead of a cork one. Conclusion: tires are crap. I will look for options.

Ignition. I replaced it with a contactless one with a Hall sensor from VAZ, an electronic switch 0529.3734 [VTN] - VAZ 2101-2109 and a coil for the 406th Gazelle engine. I tested this ignition system on Jupiter and simply transferred it to the Dnieper. The commutator is secured under the saddle,

the coil was installed in place of the old one with minor modifications to the housing and the coil itself - “https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8VvD-noOOw”.

The modulator is made in the form of a butterfly with an opening angle of 60 degrees and installed (secured by welding) on ​​a standard ignition timing mechanism, only not in the middle of the cam like many, but at its very edge in a groove made in order to place the Hall sensor in the original ignition housing and cover original cover. Yes, the cam had to be spared from the axial run-up by placing washers on the bottom)). The wiring harness is also standard for VAZ. BB wires used silicone. The candles are A17B, Soviet-made.

I went through the electrical system and checked it, a new turn relay from a VAZ 2108 - “https://np26.ru/catalog/83/459156/”. But the VAZ fuses are crap... I also installed the front right turn signal on a standard bracket from a donor. I also went through the box, changed the bushing in 1st gear, and the bearings. Now I’m looking for options for modifications and boxes, it’s just that at that time there were a lot of alterations. I replaced oil seals and O-rings everywhere with new automobile ones, and spent a long time selecting analogues by size. The tables on OPPOSITE helped a lot. I struggled with the air filter and finally, lo and behold, the TGA oil filter, F2000 catalog number: 51.05504-0098, fit almost like the original one. Whoever buys one will figure out where and how to trim it. Only it turned out to be a little shorter and we had to put additional gaskets 2.5-3mm thick under the standard rubber seals. PEKAR K-68 carburetors for 650 cc were installed. Gaskets made of thick paronite - 4mm instead of those included in the kit. For some reason, on carburetors the holes for the studs are d=10mm, but the studs are M8. I had to make bushings from a copper tube so that the carburetor would not warp when being pulled. I rebuilt the shock absorbers because the sidecar was leaking and the rear ones were not working well. I found almost no wear, I just washed it. I had springs installed without housings on top. Probably from the factory). I found a way out and made casings from polyurethane foam cylinders - it protects from dirt and a little from water, and it looks decent.

I completely rebuilt the fork, it was also in good condition, and this was after 2 accidents))) In the fuel tank, I initially replaced the tap with a new one, then I added a tap to the jumper under the tank and I got a 2nd reserve system, or even a 3rd one. th)

I made the mirrors like many others - from Shakhov’s.

Oil. I thought about this question for a long time. I searched the entire Internet. In the end, I realized that everyone uploads what they consider acceptable. The selection of oil was based on operating conditions, taking into account the technical features of the components. I used AZh-12T for shock absorbers, it seems to be good. The engine contains Lukoil mineral 20W50, even in winter (-10) everything is fine. The gearbox and gearbox also have LUKOIL TRANSMISSION TM-4 80W-90 (API GL-4), here I selected the class according to the year of manufacture of the engine (well, we know what year the design of our parasites is))))). There is a lot of useful information on the internet on the topic of oil selection, you just need to find it and study it. And to pour in detention like “real boys” and say that everything is fucked up...wonderful - this is everyone’s choice.

I skated the 2014 season without incident, I am very pleased with the improvements. Oil pressure, by the way, at idle is 3.6 kg, rises with increasing speed to 5 kg and is reset by the gearbox. Hell of a compression))) The brakes now always work without problems. The turn signals don't fail either. The downside is that the pan gasket is leaking somewhere, most likely the input shaft seal. I don’t want to, but maybe I’ll get into the cylinder head to check the valve guides and valve seals, then there will be a review about this modification.

In the fall, the generator began to suffer from low voltage, now I’m looking for a replacement car donor, perhaps a Daewoo Tico or a G-1000 tractor. The tapered bearings for the steering column “https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390566473437” have already arrived. I also ordered new indicators for the panel - “https://russian.alibaba.com/product-gs/warning-light-switches-12v-led-indicator-light-dia-22mm—637261532.html.” I want to replace the fuse box with a car type “https://oppozit.ru/node/59130”, replace the headlight, weld a front frame onto the stroller and install a fog light, install a trunk on the stroller. In the end, to make a normal windshield with glass - there are 2 glasses from Izhevsk strollers. At the same time, there are plans to make a clutch disc with progressive characteristics, as comrade Shlans recommends. The biggest problem by far, besides the alternator, is the frame. More precisely the quality of workmanship. Bad seams and the steering column is bent, like many owners of Dnieper cars from 89-91. Now I'm looking for a frame up to 1986. so as not to bother with this one.

Of course we need photos, everything will be fine, I promise. Perhaps you will ask me “why do I need all this?”, or say that “this is the Dnieper, you can’t make a foreign car.” I just love my motorcycle, and if I have the opportunity to make it even a little better, I will strive for it. Well, also regarding improvements - I’m trying to follow the path of maximum interchangeability and availability of installed parts, with minimal production of exclusive ones, for greater maintainability and ease of maintenance. ))))))))))

Current state of affairs

Today the release is aimed at the foreign market. More than 95% of models are sold not in Russia, but in the USA and Canada, European countries, and the Asian market is becoming increasingly important over time. In South Korea or Japan, for example, there are still no worthy competitors in the sector of transport with a cradle; this niche is relatively unoccupied; there are perhaps Chinese replicas that have been copying BMW since the 50s, but they do not have the same status at all.

The total sales volume, if we count from the times of the late USSR, has long exceeded 3,000,000 copies, and this figure continues to grow. This makes it clear why you can so often hear the name “Soviet Harley” - people make the analogy based on popularity, and not on fit or appearance.

Naturally, there are many who want to first buy a legend, if only because of its glorious name, and then, after several years of operation, somehow update, refresh, and improve it. We are just moving on to possible changes.

Handy tools and tuning of the Dnieper for sports

Tuning the Dnieper for sports primarily involves installing a plastic cladding. In the absence of special cladding panels and panels, the cladding can be made from a foam plastic model. Cheap and abundant material allows you to worry-free experiment with the design of the unit until the best option is found.

After cutting out the model, the foam is coated with a layer of liquid that prevents the fiberglass from sticking to it. The latter is cut to size, soaked in epoxy resin and applied in 4-5 layers to the foam. During the first two layers, it is recommended to add metal shavings to the resin, and, if possible, place a thin metal mesh between the fiber and the foam to strengthen the frame.

To completely dry the structure, you need to wait about a day, after which the foam can be removed. The resulting cladding is puttied, sanded, primed and painted. Painting in most cases is done in bright shades of blue, green, yellow, and red. Airbrushing is not uncommon, and it is performed entirely depending on the owner’s imagination.

Just as in the case of a chopper, tuning for sport involves changing the frame design, only in this case without lengthening or significantly tilting the front fork. A high “rocket” rear fender is installed, and the recessed seat is made to slope towards the high gas tank. The handlebars are shortened to an extremely comfortable length, and the exhaust pipe rises at an angle equal to the rear fender.

MY MOTORCYCLE

The frame is the most basic part of the motorcycle, its core. And how you remake it depends on how your bike turns out. After all, it determines the very silhouette of the motorcycle, and therefore the appearance. What can be made from the frame of a “Dnepr” or “Ural”, which are often the main object of local “customization”. They are often made into a chopper, the most convenient event. A couple of times I saw something like a sport (one version even turned out to be very successful), once a cross-country (but I didn’t really like it, that and the Dnieper are heavy for cross-country) and you can also make a bobber. It depends on the frame what type of motorcycle your “Dnepr” will be after the conversion: chopper, classic, enduro or sportbike.

What can be made from it? And you can do a lot, especially if you completely cut it into pipes. But this should be considered as making a new frame, not altering it. Remodeling involves relatively minor intervention in the design.

The most popular frame modifications are:

1. Extension of the frame at the rear (behind the engine). Allows more legroom for the driver. Usually the frame is extended by 5-15 cm with a corresponding extension of the driveshaft. The amount of elongation usually depends on the height of the biker.

2. Frame extension at the front (in front of the engine). Allows you to implement the “American landing” with a boxer engine. In this case, the controls for the brake system and gearbox are transferred to a rod located in front of the engine at a height that is individually selected to suit the height and length of the driver’s legs. This is precisely the principle implemented in the Russian Ural-Wolf. Please note that the height of the “pedals” on this motorcycle is chosen approximately and on average. As a result, the driver’s legs are unjustifiably “lifted” up. It may not be very convenient to travel! When extending the frame at the front, a standard length driveshaft is typically used.

3. Frame extensions. Used to install a thicker rear wheel. From personal experience, I have verified that it is possible to install a rear wheel no more than 200-210 mm wide. When installing a thicker wheel, you have to use either a broken driveshaft with an intermediate bearing, or a gearbox that allows you to shift the output of the driveshaft to the side. In fact, a standard Dnieper pendulum can accommodate a wheel no more than 120 mm wide. In this case, there will be approximately 3-5 mm between the tire and the cardan. gap I consider it optimal to slightly widen the frame and pendulum to accommodate a wheel 130-150 mm wide. It is with this wheel width that the conversion will have optimal ride quality.

4. Changing the angle of the front fork. A very popular and controversial remake. You need to know that an increase in the fork angle of more than 33 degrees entails a strong deterioration in the handling of the motorcycle (this is due to the general geometry of the motorcycle and is described in textbooks and some popular motorcycle magazines). Also, increasing the angle of inclination heavily loads the standard Dnieper fork stays and leads to their rapid failure. Also, from personal experience, I have repeatedly observed traverses and upper frame pipes cracked while driving. Therefore, in my designs I try not to increase the angle of the front fork (33 degrees - maximum).

5. Tilt of rear shock absorbers. It is used to make them work more efficiently and improve the appearance of the structure (according to many people, vertical Dnieper shock absorbers look unaesthetic). It should be taken into account that the inclination of the rear shock absorbers must be optimally selected, since with a significant increase in the inclination angle of the standard Dnepr shock absorber, the load capacity of the motorcycle is greatly reduced. This can lead to the fact that even traveling with a compact passenger will be impossible.

6. Various smaller modifications: – Installation of cups under the tapered bearings of the front fork. A very useful modification, but requiring the manufacture of new crossbars. – Lowering the saddle line. Typically used when extending a frame. – Raising the frame at the front is done by lengthening the front tubes. Etc.

Now you know what frame is needed and you can start cutting the standard Dnieper frame. Here you need to be guided by the principle “measure twice, cut once.”

The Dnepr frame is made of seamless steel pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm. These pipes are perfectly welded by electric welding. But welding frame pipes has its own characteristics.

The main task is the strength of the weld. It has been verified that even in the event of accidents, well-welded pipes never burst at the welding site. Therefore, before you start working with the frame, you need to make sure that you have sufficient ability to work with electric welding. It is advisable to practice on pipes similar to those used in the frame. In fact, it is advisable to take all the pipes for various extensions and additions from another frame.

It is highly undesirable to use water pipes, because... they are suture and their strength is significantly lower. In addition, the diameter of the water pipes does not correspond to the diameter of the Dnieper frame pipes.

It is advisable to weld pipes using a semi-automatic welding machine at the highest possible welding current for maximum heating and “penetration”. The ends of the pipes must be cut at 45 degrees, and when combining them, insert a centering insert made of a thin (for better heating) pipe between them. Also, for better penetration, it is advisable to weld the entire perimeter of the weld in 1 pass.

A big problem for home-made workers is the evenness of the future frame. Here you need to know that the Dnepr frame is initially curved. Therefore, you need to weld first using clamps (if necessary, you can adjust the position of the wheels), and after checking the frame for evenness, finally weld it. The most important requirement is that the wheels must roll “track after track”! Other options are simply life-threatening, because... the future motorcycle will drive unpredictably when moving. This may even require moving some frame pipes. Perhaps the engine will become slightly crooked, which is not as dangerous as a discrepancy in the wheel tracks.

You often hear that the Dnieper pendulum is mounted on rubber silent blocks, and tapered bearings are required. Everything is not so clear here. The Dnieper pendulum (unlike the Ural pendulum) has silent blocks with pre-tensioning. This gives a very rigid attachment. The silent blocks “run” for a very long time without the slightest hint of play. In turn, tapered bearings have to be tightened quite often, because the slightest play causes the rear of the motorcycle to wobble. I use the pendulum mounting on Dnieper silent blocks without any complaints even on heavy home-made products with engines from Zaporozhets (ZAZ).

Source CUSTOMMOTO Author: Leonidich, Andrey Vandamm

Stages of turning a Dnepr motorcycle into a custom one

Perhaps this is said loudly about turning the Dnepr motorcycle into a custom one. Because more often such alterations fall under the definition of tuning. What is the difference between custom and tuning?

Tuning is the alteration of individual spare parts or components of a motorcycle. A custom motorcycle is a bike that has been completely modified to suit the owner's wishes. Moreover, it becomes unique and inimitable.

Stages of turning a Dnepr motorcycle into a custom one:

• engine replacement or upgrade
• front fork upgrade
• chassis modification
• exhaust replacement
• adding decorative elements

The engine is additionally cleaned and polished. This is done on purpose so that it does not differ from new parts. Various rings or a direct flow system are installed on the exhaust. You can also add a decorative nozzle.

All these manipulations are easy to do yourself, since they do not require special technical knowledge. Other spare parts can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, valve covers and engine ignition covers can be purchased in our online store.

Engine tuning

The power of the original engine, despite its fairly large volume, is not always enough. If you decide to take such a step.

The following steps should be followed:

1. Polishing the cylinder bores to remove carbon deposits and casting defects will give your motorcycle an extra 2 hp. With. And if you also adjust the compression ratio in each cylinder, then this procedure will add power due to the coordinated operation of the two cylinders.
2. Check valve timing.
3. Check the integrity of the ignition design in absolutely all cylinders. The ignition overtake should be around 40°-42°. The simultaneity of the ignition organization can be achieved if the arrogance of the fight in the distributor is knocked down and continued up to the same value of the ignition timing of 2 cylinders.
4. A couple of “horses” are given to you by the K-301 B carburetors.
5. I advise you to install air filters from Moskvich-412 cars (2 pcs.) or Volga GAZ-24 at your discretion.
6. Adjust the carburetor for smooth operation.
7. Select the length and diameter of the exhaust pipes and mufflers.

Motorcycle engine tuning Ural and Dnepr.

Greetings to owners of heavy domestic Ural or Dnepr motorcycles who are not satisfied with the standard factory engine power of these bikes - this article is for you. Here we will look at how to increase the power of the stifled engines of these motorcycles on our own, but I want to immediately warn you that without a familiar turner, boring machine, milling machine and thermal operator, it will be impossible to achieve our plans. Therefore, choose some factory in your city or a well-equipped workshop in advance and make acquaintances there, since the modification of some parts in an ordinary garage is not feasible.

In general, domestic boxer engines of these motorcycles have good potential for boosting, since in these engines the piston stroke has a shorter distance than the piston diameter itself (the piston stroke is 68 mm, and its diameter is 78 mm). That is, these engines can be quite revving (not like the Japanese, but still), but at the factory they are clearly strangled, and the quality of engine parts, compared to the Japanese or European motorcycle industry, to put it mildly, is not good.

And now, in general, spare parts from such basement “firms” have appeared on sale that factory Soviet parts seem to be the height of perfection. So before you start tuning your engine, as I will describe in this article, first do a major overhaul (replace worn gears, shafts, etc.), but only from Soviet parts, of which the local population still has plenty of them in Russia and the CIS ( especially somewhere in the outback). And find Soviet pistons from the 6 volt Dnepr MT-9 (or K-650), with a spherical bottom - they will be useful for raising the compression ratio of your engine. So let's get started.

Engine head.

The head of any engine is very important, because through it the engine cylinders are filled with a combustible mixture and exhaust gases are removed. And the more efficiently the cylinders are filled and exhaust gases are removed more efficiently, the greater the power of any engine.

The first thing we will start with is bringing the factory head of your boxer to normal condition. First, dry out the head valves and remove the valves. If you have a Ural motorcycle head, then it is more strangled than the Dnieper one, since the diameter of its valves is only 35 mm exhaust, and 38 mm inlet. Bore out the original Ural valve seats and press in normal Dnieper valve seats with a diameter of 38 and 40 mm in their place. Any mechanic in a car repair shop knows what kind of fit should be when the saddles are pressed in correctly (the saddles must be made of durable malleable and heat-resistant cast iron), so go there. There they will bore (remove) the Ural valve seats for you, and correctly press in the enlarged Dnieper valve seats.

Now you will need Dnieper valves, but when purchasing, check the evenness of their stems (a leftist is enough), the standard of straightness is up to 0.03 mm (you can check by rolling the valve stem over a piece of glass, and a feeler gauge thicker than 0.03 mm should not be inserted between the glass and the valve stem , and ideally even thinner). You won’t be able to check what the valves should be made of, but it’s still useful to know - alloyed alloy 40X9 for the inlet valve and heat-resistant steel EP303 for the exhaust valve. Soviet parts are made from these alloys.

Having purchased the valves, measure their diameter with a micrometer and select new guide bushings made of cermet or bronze for them, but so that the gap between the valve stem and the bushing is no more than 0.04 mm. (by the way, when purchasing, immediately measure both the bushings and valves). The inner diameter of the bushing is measured with a small indicator bore gauge. You can read how to press in bushings using the example of automotive ones, because the principle of pressing is the same, only the device needs to be made specifically for your head (see the device and how to use it here).

A pressed Zhiguli bushing into the boxer head and a valve seal.

I want to assure many boxer engines that 90% of all NEW heads for boxer engines are now sold with an inflated value of up to 0.5 millimeters!!! clearance between the guide bushing and the valve stem. I repeat once again - NEW heads, so after purchasing a new head, immediately dry out the valves and change the bushings, or valves with thicker stems (to get a gap of 0.04 mm). By the way, I advise you to press in the Zhiguli factory bushings, since they have a special groove on which a very useful valve seal is placed (see photo).

Also check all three necessary chamfers on the valve plates: at the inlet of the seat there should be a chamfer of 60°, which will ensure maximum filling of the cylinder at the inlet; at the outlet of the seat there should be a chamfer of 30°, which will give the outlet minimal resistance; and a working chamfer of 45°, which will be in excellent contact with the valve disc, providing excellent tightness.

The next operation will be replacing the standard springs with springs from a foreign car, for example from Avdotya (Audi 100). This must be done, since the speed of your engine will increase after tuning, and the standard springs will not cope with the inertia of the valves and their pushers at higher speeds. And Audi springs are stiffer and this stiffness, as well as their progressive characteristics, will not allow the valves to hang at high crankshaft speeds.

Springs from Audi, spring plate and valve modification for crackers from Audi. 1 — springs from Audi, 2 — valve crackers from Audi and grooves on the valve for them.

To implement this idea, you will need to shorten the valve stems slightly (up to 90 mm), and cut three grooves at the ends of the stems for Audi spring locks (see photo). And the cut ends of the valve stems (at the point of contact with the rocker arms) will need to be hardened or cemented (whatever thermal agent you find at the factory, do it).

When assembling, do not forget to check that the rocker presses exactly in the center of the valve end, because on most factory heads this alignment is incorrect. Using thin adjusting washers placed on the rocker axis, ensure that the tip of the rocker presses exactly in the center of the valve end, this is important.

Before assembly, it is advisable to bore the inlet and outlet channels of both heads a little (about 1.2 - 2 mm) with a rolling cutter, and then polish their walls to a mirror shine - this will improve filling, the engine will breathe better and this will increase power. Don’t forget to thoroughly wash the entire head to remove any processing products.

Well, one more improvement of the head. It is necessary to make and screw in fittings for the longer threads of modern spark plugs, because all normal (for example, iridium) spark plugs have a long thread. And it’s time to introduce modern spark plugs, which are designed for up to 200 thousand kilometers, into our boxer engines. It’s better, of course, to make two fittings, as I did on my Dnepr, in order to install two spark plugs on each cylinder in the future. You can see this in this article, and there you will see how easy it is to install a homemade electronic ignition on a domestic boxer engine.

Those who want to go even further, in the endless path of tuning, can install hydraulic valve compensators from a foreign car on the engine of a Dnepr motorcycle (the Dnepr has more oil pressure than the Ural, since the oil pump is more efficient). This will allow you to forget about frequent valve clearance adjustments. To implement this idea, you first need to select the hydraulic compensators themselves at disassembly (we adjust their diameter as fashionably closer to the diameter of the standard pushers, so that less aluminum is removed when boring the standard holes in the crankcase), and valve springs from the same machine.

Having measured the exact diameter of the compensators, it is necessary, based on this diameter, to bore the holes (in which the standard valve tappets move) in the Dnieper crankcase, so that the hydraulic compensators move in the bored holes with a gap of 0.04 mm.

Round fitting for pressure sensor.

And for them to work (compensating for valve clearances), oil under pressure must be supplied to them from the lubrication system of the Dnieper engine. The easiest way to supply oil to the hydraulic compensators is from a standard oil pressure sensor (we connect the fitting to the sensor, which is shown in the blue photo on the left, but it will need to be welded to a steel tube, and a clamp is not needed) and then through steel tubes, and from the tubes are screwed into the crankcase T-shaped fittings through which oil is supplied directly to the hydraulic compensators in the crankcase (see photo below).

Supply of oil pipes from the sensor to the hydraulic valve compensators.

But the main thing in this alteration is to install valve springs from the same machine as the hydraulic compensators. Since the expansion joints are heavier than the standard Dnieper pushers and the standard Dnieper springs do not have enough elastic force to cope with the inertia of the heavier expansion joints (at speeds above 4 thousand), and interruptions in engine operation will occur.

The last thing that needs to be done here is to drill a hole in the bottom of the compensator (in all four), into which a standard aluminum rod will rest, which pushes the valve (more precisely, the steel tip of the rod).

Camshaft.

The engine, with a modified head, will “breathe” even deeper and more efficiently at high speeds if you increase the valve opening stroke slightly (by 1.5 - 2 mm). And to do this, you need to weld metal onto the camshaft cams, increasing the profile of the cams. By the way, on the Dneprov MT-1036 model, a camshaft with a higher cam profile (than other models) was already installed at the factory, so it makes sense to look for this shaft. If possible (a normal factory or a workshop with good specialists), then you can order a new camshaft, but with a 2 mm larger cam profile, from 20X steel, followed by carburization.

Welding should be best done with an argon arc apparatus, fusing the metal a little at a time onto the top of the cam, and at the same time, the entire camshaft should be immersed in a bath of cold water (add cold water as it heats up). This is necessary, otherwise the shaft will move when heated. Having welded a little metal onto all 4 tops of the cam, we process them and constantly check the profile using a template made in advance from cardboard.

The profile of all four cams should be exactly the same in both height and egg shape, and once this is achieved, the cams should be polished to a mirror finish. After polishing, it is advisable to harden the cams to a hardness of HRC 43-48 (it is better to contact a familiar thermal specialist). By the way, you can increase the service life of the camshaft by modifying it a little more, but we read here how to do this.

After modifying the camshaft, no matter how hard we tried, it could still move, and not only from welding, but most likely from hardening. This is necessary and important to check by placing the shaft in two prisms and bringing the nose of a dial indicator to it in different places (where there are no cams). We check the shaft by turning it in the prisms and following the indicator arrow. And if there is curvature, then the matter can be corrected if you drop a drop of metal in the middle of the shaft using electric welding (where there is no cam) and you will immediately see that the shaft will bend slightly in the opposite direction.

This way you can completely remove the curvature by constantly checking the shaft with an indicator after each drop of welding (at the end we grind off a drop). Just practice first on some unnecessary roller or metal rod.

I would like to warn you that it is pointless to carry out painstaking modifications to the camshaft if you do not replace all the bearings, especially the crankshaft bearings with high-quality Japanese ones. Also, the piston and crankshaft must be new. And the most important thing I want to say is: with an increase in the profile of the cams, the engine power will increase only at high speeds, and on the contrary, it will drop at medium and low speeds.

Why this happens cannot be explained in a nutshell, and I highly recommend reading more about this in this article, after reading which you will understand that modifying the camshaft, as described above, is in most cases not justified. After this, you will have to constantly rev the engine and work the gearshift foot twice as often, which is not good for a chopper - its engine must be pulled from the bottom. If you are building a motorcycle in the café racer or streetfighter style, then it makes sense to bother, but again let me remind you that your engine must be brought to the ideal (start, as I already said, by replacing the bearings with branded ones, replacing the carburetor jets with ones increased by 40%, replacing exhaust to forward flow, etc.).

Piston group.

When modifying the pistons, we will take into account two main circumstances. The first is to increase the compression ratio, and the second is to make sure that the pistons do not meet the valves at the top and the crankshaft cheeks at the bottom. And as I said at the beginning, in order to increase the compression ratio, the Urals will need MT-9 pistons with a convex bottom, which is already 6 mm higher than the Ural one, and therefore it will provide an increase in the compression ratio.

Refinement of the piston group. 1 - excess aluminum was removed from the piston skirt, 2 - a copper tube that pours oil onto the bottom inside the piston, 3 - a sample of 12 by 12 mm.

But the catch is that it is impossible to rotate the Ural crankshaft with pistons from the MT-9, since the crankshaft cheeks will rest against the lower edge of the piston skirt. To eliminate this, you need to sharpen the Dnieper pistons so that only 3 mm of aluminum remains on the side of the piston skirt (where number 1 is in the photo) to the lower oil scraper ring. (see photo).

After this modification, the pistons and crankshaft will no longer interfere with each other. But when the piston goes to bottom dead center, check that there is a gap of at least 1 mm between the ground part of the piston skirt and the crankshaft cheek (so that as the pistons wear and are repositioned, the parts do not meet during operation, plus a thermal gap).

You should also cut out window 3 (see photo) in the skirts of both pistons, 12 mm wide and 12 mm high. This is necessary so that the piston does not catch the oil supply tube on the bottom of the piston during operation (but more on that a little later). You will also need to cut out the same 12 by 12 mm window on the cylinder (see photo below).

After all the grinding and adjustments, ensure that both pistons have exactly the same weight in grams. Next, assemble the piston and install the heads, then, bringing the pistons to TDC, fill in engine oil through the spark plug hole to check (one by one) the compression ratio. To do this, you need to divide the larger amount of fluid that will fit in the cylinder at BDC by the smaller amount of fluid that will fit in the combustion chamber at TDC. It should be approximately 9.0 - 9.2. (standard engines have a compression ratio of 6.5 - 7).

A cylinder with a cutout at the bottom for the oil supply pipe.

When turning the crankshaft of a Ural engine with Dnieper pistons by hand, make sure that the piston does not meet the valves (this will immediately prevent you from turning the crankshaft by hand). You should also make sure that there is a gap of at least 1 mm between the fully open valve and the piston. This can be checked by sticking plasticine or window putty, a couple of millimeters thick, onto the bottom of the piston.

The valves will leave a clear imprint in the plasticine. If the piston touches an open valve (or two), then you should make a cut on the piston with a milling cutter. Such samples are made on more modern Dnieper pistons (and on pistons from foreign cars too).

By the way, you can increase the compression ratio on a Dnepr motorcycle without changing the standard piston if you grind off the mating plane of the engine head, but by how much? This depends on the degree of compression you want to achieve, as well as on the thickness of the bottom of the pistons. After all, after you grind (butt) the head by, for example, 2 mm, you should use a milling cutter to select the same 2 mm for the valves, otherwise the piston and valves will touch each other and will not allow the crankshaft to rotate (do not forget about the 1 mm gap between piston bottom and open valves).

Cooling and lubrication system.

After the above-described alterations, the antediluvian air cooling system (if you can call it that) should be improved. This is especially true for Ural motorcycles, whose ancient cast-iron cylinders are barely able to keep the engine from overheating, even with a standard compression ratio of 6.5. What can we say, if we raised the compression to 9, then without modifications overheating is guaranteed.

By the way, KMZ factory engineers long ago took into account that cast iron cylinders are the stone age, and after the notorious lower-valve cacique (K-750) they began to install aluminum cylinders with a cast-iron liner, which are much more efficiently cooled, on all overhead-valve engines of subsequent Dnepr models.

It’s a pity that Irbit engineers riveted cast iron cylinders (cast iron cylinders) that constantly overheated in the heat until the end of the 90s, until the more advanced Ural Voyage appeared, and then the Wolf, on which they finally repeated the cylinders like those of the Dnieper, making them aluminum , and fastening them with through studs (probably after a few years enlightenment came to the minds of the engineers of the Urals).

So, what am I talking about? Moreover, ideally, cylinders from Volk should be installed on older Ural motorcycles. But before that, they should be shortened by as much as 10 mm (and their fastening remade with through studs, as on the Dnieper), since the Wolf has a piston stroke that is 10 mm longer than that of a regular Ural. But it’s better, of course, not to spoil the Volkov cylinders, but also install a crankshaft from the Volk, and then the engine capacity will also increase to 750 cubic meters, but this is a topic for a separate article. In general, to be honest, for me the Dnepr motorcycle is much nicer and easier to tune than the Ural, no offense to the owners of the Urals, of course.

Additional oil pump in the Ural crankcase. 1 - copper tube is screwed into the pump body, 2 - the tube outlet is sealed with sealant.

Okay, enough philosophy; Regardless of which cylinders are on your boxer, you still need to do the following: firstly, you need to bring additional coolness to the bottoms of the pistons - the zone of the highest temperatures. To do this, to the standard Ural oil pump, through an adapter and an extended roller, we connect another Ural, or better yet, a more efficient Dnieper oil pump (see photo).

And connect a separate oil line to it, which is connected further through the oil cooler (in series), then bifurcates and pumps oil precisely to the bottoms of the pistons from the inside. Check that both oil supply tubes are directed exactly to the bottoms of the pistons from the inside (bring the piston to BDC and bend the tube, pointing it at the bottom of the piston from the inside, but so that it does not touch the piston skirt).

Oil radiator from a foreign car

An oil cooler can be found at the dismantling of foreign-made motorcycles, since many road Japanese motorcycles are air-oil cooled, and our boxer is worse. The radiator can be fitted even from Zaporozhets - it even has air/oil cooling. And in the crankcase itself, the oil volume should be increased to 3 liters, using a higher aluminum sump (see photo below), they are already on sale. The additional volume of oil will have a good effect on the temperature of the engine, along with the radiator.

Enlarged aluminum oil pan.

Power and ignition.

All that remains is to install electronic ignition on your boxer, as described in the article about its installation (link above in the text), as well as normal vacuum carburetors from a Japanese motorcycle, which will add power. Just don’t forget to switch to higher octane gasoline, since your compression ratio is no longer seven, but nine! The engine speed will increase to 7500, and new possibilities will open up for the boxer engine and the motorcycle as a whole. And since the speed has increased, some standard bearings may not be able to cope with the speed. Therefore, as they wear out, I advise you to replace them with branded ones, and I advise you to read how to choose a bearing and recognize its markings here.

And of course, it wouldn’t hurt to install tuning gears for the third and fourth gears in the gearbox in order to reduce their gear ratios (from 1.7 to 1.55 - third gear, and from 1.3 to 1.09 - fourth gear). And also install the tenth pair of gears in the rear axle gearbox (read how to do this correctly in this article). This will allow you to move at speeds exceeding a hundred without overclocking the engine.

That seems to be all. Who wants to read about the history of the improvement of my Dnepr motorcycle, then click here and read for good measure.

If you tune the engine of a Ural or Dnepr motorcycle as described in this article, then the capabilities of your bike will be much higher than serial factory motorcycles, and you will get great pleasure from a sharper start and an increased maximum speed, but the motorcycle was created precisely for pleasure; good luck to everyone!

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Ural's position now

Before the notorious events of the early nineties, about three million devices were produced. After the collapse of the Union, the plant's position began to deteriorate. The purchasing power of the population fell sharply, factories in the country were closed and sold off. Fortunately, the unenviable fate passed the Ural. Production continued. These were mainly motorcycles with a sidecar (with or without a drive), with a 4-stroke opposed two-cylinder engine with a volume of 745 “cubes” and a power of 40 “horses”, plus 4 gears and reverse gear.

Since the mid-90s, almost all parts in the design of the Ural motorcycle have been improved or replaced with new ones. In honor of the 70th anniversary of the plant in Irbit, modernized models were produced, one of the best is the Ural motorcycle with M70 Sidecar tuning.

The sale of models already produced in Russia, and not in the USSR, is aimed at foreign countries. 97% of all models of the plant are sold in the USA, Europe, Canada, and Australia. Asia is considered as one of the promising markets: Japan and Korea. In these countries there are simply no competitors in the niche of motorcycles with sidecars, but there is demand. China, as a sales market, has been producing a replica of the M-72 under the guise of a copy of BMW since the 50s.

Choosing a task that suits your needs

It is important to understand that changes can be both painless and significant, drastic. And the point is not only in the degree of difficulty in implementing all modernization measures, but also in registering improvements for successfully passing technical inspection. If in the first case the updates do not need to be coordinated with anyone at all, then in the second it is necessary that they be allowed to be carried out either by regulatory authorities, either representatives of the manufacturing plant, or all of them at once.

If in the first case the updates do not need to be coordinated with anyone at all, then in the second it is necessary that they be allowed to be carried out either by regulatory authorities, or representatives of the manufacturing plant, or all of them at once.

So, if you are going to refresh your Ural or another motorcycle with a sidecar, tuning can be one of two types:

• simple, that is, not requiring additional paperwork;
• complex - carried out only after approval, confirmed by official papers with seals and signatures.

Let's decide which one to choose.

Painless changes

There are quite a lot of them, but they can be divided into external and internal. The former are aimed at individualizing the design, the latter at improving driving and technical parameters.

If we talk about appearance, then it is initially classic, which means quite stylish and attractive, but nothing prevents you from customizing it to your own taste. In the case when you have the Urals or the Dnieper, for tuning you can:

• raise and straighten the steering wheel;
• make a single seat;
• install mirrors, control knobs and fairings of a different shape;
• move the footrests forward, thus adding convenience to the landing;
• remove the wings, giving the bike more dynamics;
• move the muffler to the right;
• give preference to solid brake and clutch levers;
• chrome all visually noticeable parts;
• replace the rear wheel with a wider size, 130-150, but not more, otherwise you will have to buy a frame as well;
• remove the original fuel tank and replace it with a streamlined one, from the Planet, 49 or 56 IZh, Jupiter or even Java-250 (if it fits).

Look how much such painless tuning of the Urals transforms the design of the bike: the motorcycle in the photo already looks completely different, and in real life this impression only intensifies.

Belgian masterpiece

Two people worked on this model, one of whom was Belgian. One evening he walked into a local bar, in the parking lot of which there was an old Dnepr. That’s how he came up with the idea of ​​restoring a Soviet bike.

The repair process and tuning took more than two months. Although it was initially planned to restore the motorcycle in the rat-custom style, in the end the old Dnepr combines several styles: scrambler, chopper and tracker.

For a more believable effect, the specialist used special paint to give the surface a rusty effect. The Belgian enthusiast added several parts from the famous Harley-Davidson to the Soviet bike: a custom steering wheel, a leather saddle and a brake light.

The master also equipped the engine with new Schaeffler bearings and pistons from the BMW R60, and the wheels were finished with shiny tires from Heidenau K37. Now the old “Dnepr” from 1970 has found a second wind and is ready to conquer new tracks.