What candles should be on the Dnieper-11?
I bought myself a Dnepr-11, my first boxer, I unscrewed the spark plugs to clean them and check the gap, but they were different.
One is A11, the other is A17B. I don't have a book on motorcycles. And in general, I’m still a teapot. So I’m sitting and thinking: what candles should I put? I don’t like it when a motorcycle is put together haphazardly. I want everything to go well. And what gap should there be? Tell me, please. Maybe someone has a scanned “Guide to the use of DNEPR-11 motorcycles for peaceful purposes”? I'm interested in all the values for setting up motorcycle components. Tell me where I can download it. In! I found it in the price list of some company: For the DNEPR and URAL - spark plugs A14B (APS), gap - 0.5 mm.
For any opposition I recommend CHAMPION L87YCE. Buy at AKKS, on Donskaya Street. I went with them for a season without changing them.
Go to https://www.moto.by/oppozit/. There are many articles on the Dnieper.
on the 11th Dnieper, candles with a heat number of 10 or 11.
You come to the store and Grisha: “THE TYPE!” FATHER! I FUCK THE CANDLES ON THE DNIPRO AND THE SLIDER BEARING NAH. »
Thanks for the advice. I studied my cart in more detail, it turned out that the candles were just flowers: the motorcycle, like the hike, was not looked after at all, it was exploited in a black way! It is necessary to change the front wheel bearing, check the rear wheel + cardan, clean the entire power system, rinse and change the oil wherever it should be. It’s good that the engine, ignition and all wiring are in order!
If you believe the book, on the Dnieper with an engine boosted for 76 gasoline, A14B spark plugs are used, and on an engine made for 93 gasoline, A17B spark plugs are used. I don’t know about others, but with A11 spark plugs, my insulator burst when on the road there was nothing to replace the spark plug with and I had to use whatever was at hand
Did you think that you would immediately start driving and be happy? :-) On my original Dnieper, the bridge was dry (apparently the previous owner drove like that for some time), the steering column was broken, the wheels were ugly remade, not counting the little things. But when I took the second one, I knew what to check :-) PS Be prepared to gradually go through almost everything. Good luck!
I tried to look at something on this site many times, but apart from the “Contents” of this book, I didn’t see anything. When I click on any link, I receive the response: “The document you requested is not available.” Like this!
Source
Which candles are better?
what candles are best to use for UKTUS
They cost Iridium Denso, no complaints :)) 500 rubles
The NGK ones were new, the spark was greasy at first, but after a month it became barely noticeable. I installed domestic A17, the spark was again strong, but one died on the same day. I just found an old Isolator Special, Made in GDR, in the garage, the spark is ok. I also found a Soviet spark plug, made in 1952, the spark is wonderful))
Kych. The wounded crawl away with SPARKS.
used NGK BP6L on a cacique. Very good.
I installed the NGK BP6E.. it seems fine.. I haven’t driven it enough yet for a detailed review.
But I didn’t feel much difference with either the A14 or the A11 =)
I have tried so many candles! This is the second year I’ve been driving Soviet A-11s, left over from my dad’s ZIL, 1976. Generally great! It’s a pity that I only have 2 of them (((I tried modern A-11s, it’s not the same. I recently bought BP5H (NGK), it seems to work, but the tests have just begun)))))
Second season on NGK.
ssh, interceptor, six cold for IMZ
According to the manual, nada a14 = 5ka, I haven’t seen fives on sale. six works amazingly
How much is this in our A?
PS. I have 825cc on the 92/95.
Well, I wrote that I used it on the lower valve. That's it for him. NGK thinks so too
