How to inflate a tubeless tire yourself. Several ways to inflate a tubeless tire
After mounting a tubeless tire on a wheel rim, it is not so easy to inflate it. Tire shops and service stations do not count. We are interested in how to inflate a tubeless tire yourself.
Why is everything so difficult
The problem is that usually after mounting the wheel between the tire and the rim of the disc there is a gap of 5 millimeters to 5 centimeters or, as professionals say, the tire “does not sit in place.”
There is simply no point in inflating such a tire with a foot pump, or even more so with a hand pump - all the air pumped by the pump will exit through the above-mentioned gap. At tire service centers, this issue is solved simply: using pneumatic shock devices, powerful compressors, boosters or inflators, a large amount of air is supplied into the gap between the rim and the tire in a short period of time. After the tire “slams shut” and sits in its mounting location, air is pumped in the usual way - through the tire nipple using a standard hose with a pressure gauge.
What to do if there is simply no equipment for pneumatic impact? Over the years of operation, motorists have invented several ways to inflate tubeless tires. From safe to risky, from labor-intensive to effortless. Which method is more acceptable is up to you to choose.
We use flammable liquids
Place the fully assembled and mounted wheel on the ground. The spool from the nipple must be unscrewed. Apply a small (10 to 20 ml) amount of gasoline, WD-40 liquid or carburetor cleaner in a circle into the gap between the tire and the rim of the wheel.
Next, you need to safely (using a torch from a newspaper or throwing a match from afar) ignite the vapors of flammable liquid formed inside the tire, which, when ignited, will increase the volume of air and after a noticeable bang the tire will sit tightly in its seat.
It is possible that the wheel can jump up to half a meter above the ground. Therefore, be prepared for such effects and use caution.
We screw the valve into the nipple and inflate the tire in the usual way using a pump.
We resort to using an inflated wheel
We inflate the spare tire or wheel on the car with a pump to a pressure of about 4 atmospheres. We remove the hose from the pump and put the side that was removed from the pump tube onto the nipple of the tubeless tire that needs to be inflated. We remind you: the spool must be unscrewed from the tire.
We put the second end of the hose with a lock onto the fitting of the tire with excess pressure and fix it. Air from the “inflated” tire will flow under pressure through the hose into the empty tire and it will “sit back into place” quite quickly. All that remains is to disconnect the hose first from the donor wheel, and then from the recipient tire, screw the spool into the nipple and inflate both wheels to the required pressure.
How I studded tires for the winter
In the fall, I sent the scooter away for the winter, and it became boring without it. After all, our motorcycle season is too short. I was sad for a while, and then articles began to appear on the Internet about studding tires yourself so that you could ride in winter.
I read a couple of articles and after a while I also became interested in the same idea - studding tires. Moreover, since the summer I still have two unnecessary tires and one disk bought for ridiculous money. I decided that half the battle was done, so I bought a second disk, 2 cameras, some small things and got to work.
I decided to stud the tires using bolts and nuts. I calculated that I needed 280 bolts, the same number of nuts and twice as many washers. I bought 5x20 bolts, M5 nuts and 5x12 washers. Unfortunately, in the end I bought fewer bolts than I had planned - there were only leftovers in the store.
At first everything was fine.
I drilled holes in the tires with an M5 drill. It is important to take a sharp drill that cuts and does not grind the rubber. And then I inserted the bolts from the reverse side, placed washers on both sides, and tightened the nuts. When all the bolts were in place, I tightened the nuts with a wrench.
Now it was necessary to put tires on the wheels. Since I was going to have cameras inside, I first laid down strips of soft foam-poly-whatever to prevent the bolt heads from tearing through the camera.
Then I placed the tube inside and put the tires on the rims. Since this was my first experience, I suffered quite a bit until I found the right way to position the camera. Of course, the camera was broken, which is why I later put a patch on it - but that’s not a big deal.
The end result is this beauty. Since I had fewer bolts than I planned, I put more of them on the rear drive wheel than on the front.
It's time to put wheels on the scooter. With the front everything turned out to be simple.
Nothing happened with the rear one. The 5x20 bolts turned out to be too long and caught the step, crankcase and mudguard. I had to take a grinder and cut down the bolts. I shortened it so that 4-5 mm of free thread protruded. This turned out to be enough. In general, it was necessary to take 5x16 bolts.
I didn't know if it would be difficult to start the scooter in the cold. But it turned out that the scooter feels great in winter! It starts and drives even at -20, it doesn’t matter to him. This is what it means - old and reliable carburetor technology, and even with a two-stroke engine - it is not afraid of any climatic conditions. Apparently, it is for this reason that two-stroke engines are also actively used on snowmobiles.
However, contrary to my expectations, it turned out that riding a scooter in the snow is not so easy. The scooter doesn't hold up well on rough roads. Of course, it’s due to the fact that I didn’t install enough bolts; I needed twice as many. And the scooter's wheel is too narrow for snow. You need to start from a standstill very carefully, because if you turn the gas a little, the rear wheel immediately digs a groove to the ground. And until you accelerate, it tends to bury itself.
However, on a well-trodden road the scooter rides quite steadily. And it brakes very well, you just need to use the rear brake. But where can you get a well-trodden road in your country house in winter, especially after freshly fallen snow?
Overall, I can't say that I was happy with the result. I spent a lot of effort and money, and got too little pleasure to justify all the expenses. But nothing, a negative experience is also an experience. Maybe it will hold someone back, and help someone else do it more correctly.
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How to inflate a tubeless tube without a pump? Gasoline!
Previously, we told you how you can find a way out of a situation when you need to inflate a tubeless tire, but there is no pump or compressor at hand, but only Coca-Cola. What if there is no soda?
Well, then you will have to inflate the wheel with a liquid that is even easier to get - gasoline. Tire fitters call this procedure “explosion-pumping”.
In field conditions, flammable liquids and gases help to quickly trim/inflate a tire. You can use a simple and accessible method, such as igniting gasoline vapors.
Pour some flammable liquid (alcohol, gasoline, ether for cold starts) into the tire and set it on fire. Arson must be done very carefully, preferably at a sufficient distance from oneself, using a stick with an open flame at the other end as an extension cord. The explosion of vapors will instantly cap the tire and inflate it to an acceptable size.
To inflate a passenger car tire, approximately 50 grams of gasoline is sufficient (it all depends on the size of the wheel). Although it is best to use ether in cans for cold starts, because gasoline is also harmful to the inner layer of the tire.
This method is actively used both for field inflation and for quickly shrinking the tire onto the disk (then the spool is turned out). The main thing is not to overfill with flammable liquid so as not to be left completely without a wheel, since things can always go wrong as you planned.
Here's what these would-be masters have:
In order not to repeat their bitter experience, when mastering this dangerous but working technology, it is better to use alcohol, because gasoline can burn for a long time. Or simply pour a little and shake well, then only its vapor will remain in the tire.
How a tubeless tire is seated and inflated using gasoline and fire
In a similar way, you can use not only liquid, but also gas. Although this is much more dangerous, and the cylinder may be much less likely to be at hand. What method is often used by tire servicers of heavy tractors?
Inflating wheels with a gas explosion
Follow safety precautions and everything will be fine. Carry out the operation away from the car. Do not keep containers with gasoline nearby. Have a fire extinguisher ready!
Scooter tires 130 60 R13
The scooters use winter and all-season tires in size 130/60 R13. These tires are suitable for dry, wet, frozen and snowy roads. The tires have deep grooves to drain water and slush, as well as sipes for good grip on snow and to prevent hydroplaning. Most often, the rubber composition provides protection against freezing and hardening at low temperatures.
130 60 R13
Its parameters
This tire has a width of 130 mm, a profile height of 60 and a diameter of 13 inches with a radial tire system.
How to disassemble a wheel on a scooter (photo and video)
Among inexperienced owners, the question often arises about how to properly disassemble and then bead a tire on a scooter. The work is simple, but it has a number of nuances. If you do not follow a number of recommendations, a perfectly suitable tire can easily be damaged. Even if the current tires are in poor condition and there is no point in putting them back, it is still important to do it correctly without damaging the disc.
Tires for a scooter
Scooter tires are one of the most important consumable items responsible for the safety of the vehicle driver on the road. The choice of motorcycle tires for a scooter is extremely important, despite the fact that they are not purchased very often. Tires for scooters provide a level of comfort for the driver during the trip, good handling and stability of the vehicle. In the motorcycle tire market, the most widespread are Chinese-made motorcycle tires, followed by Taiwanese-made models. In addition, every year Chinese auto and motor tires are increasingly replacing expensive European models.
Scooter tires
The choice of motor tires, which is presented on the domestic market, is as follows:
- KENDA are motorcycle tires for scooters made in Taiwan, extremely popular among motorcycle enthusiasts. The so-called “herringbone” tires are especially popular, i.e., Kenda model motorcycle tires with two treads, as well as a model with one tread resembling a pattern of wavy lines. The latter type of tires is perfect for asphalt and smooth city roads. According to the advice of experienced motorcyclists, it is not recommended to use tires with an aggressive tread pattern in urban conditions, since during movement the tread blocks cling to the asphalt quite strongly, creating increased resistance and excessive vibrations. But at the same time, these motorcycle tires are indispensable for country and dirt roads, which is especially noticeable when they are installed on the front wheels.
- DURO are scooter tires made in China, which are distinguished by fairly high quality indicators and a fairly affordable price. But when using them on wet roads, it is imperative to take increased precautions due to their high rigidity.
- PIRELLI - Italian-made motor tires.
- MICHELIN - French tires of fairly high quality.
- METZELER - have a high level of softness and stability on the road, and are also durable and suitable for any road.
- The DUNLOP and BRIDGESTONE brands represent motorcycle tires made in Japan, which are installed at manufacturing plants on the wheels of Japanese motorcycles. They are of very high quality.
You might be interested in this About Michelin Energy tires for your car
Sequence and features of work execution
It is easier to repair the wheel yourself when another tube is available. To deflate a tubeless tire without leaving gaps is quite difficult - it requires a sharp increase in pressure, which only a high-performance compressor can generate. But if you still have to change the tires, you can use the “folk method”. After unscrewing the nipple, pour some gasoline inside. Shake the wheel and ignite the steam coming out through the hole. There will be a small explosion causing the sidewalls to settle on the rim. Regarding safety, this procedure is not capable of breaking the tire, since it has a good margin of safety. But this should be done not in the garage, moving away from the cans of gasoline at a great distance, so as not to provoke a fire. It is not recommended to perform such manipulations with a new copy, since unburnt gasoline will remain inside. Wear from it will accelerate several times.
Rear-mounted tires are more likely to wear out and puncture because they account for approximately 70 percent of the weight. The reason is simple - the driver's body is located closer to the rear than to the front.
To remove the rubber, you need to release all the air and tear the side cord off the rim. The work is difficult because it cannot be done manually. If you have a vice in your garage, use it to press the rubber down. If they are absent, you are allowed to lightly run over the surface with a car wheel. Moreover, it is better to use a passenger vehicle - a truck or jeep can bend the disk, after which you will have to purchase a new one. You need to trample on the sidewalls, bringing them down to the central part of the rim. You can use a simple shovel to insert the tip between the tire and the rim and apply pressure to dislodge the edge of the tire.
For dismantling, it is recommended to use narrow pry bars. The use of thick, wide mounting devices for a car causes additional difficulties when performing work on a small-diameter wheel. Alternatively, long, heavy-duty screwdrivers can be used. If it is inconvenient to carry mounting kits with you, any owner will always have a pair of screwdrivers.
Beading is carried out from the nipple. Starting from the opposite part, the nipple will prevent the wheel from sinking inside the rim. If you see that something is preventing the sides from sliding into the middle, determine the reason and get rid of it. You shouldn’t rely on your own strength, because you can easily break the tire cord. And if you have a lot of strength, the rim itself will break. To bead a tire using narrow screwdrivers or mounting holders, the part being put on should be held in a special recess on the rim.
Before beading the rear wheel on a scooter, always remember the distance between the screwdrivers - it should be a maximum of two to three centimeters. It is recommended to disassemble the wheel so that the rim lies on the ground with the side in working position near the muffler. This should be done because if dismantling is careless, the scratches will not be very noticeable, because they will be covered by a muffler. When changing an old tire that you don't have to put back together, lubricate the bead with soapy water or oil. This will greatly simplify and speed up the replacement process. Oil can corrode the tire, so treat the surface with a degreaser before starting installation. Installation of the tire is carried out exclusively using a soap solution.
Characteristics of tires for scooter 120 70 12
This tire size for two-wheeled scooters is common and quite often used. A striking example is the L-373 model from. This model of tubeless motorcycle tire is used on both asphalt and dirt country roads. This tire has good cross-country ability and is quite safe in wet road conditions. Tire width 120 mm, profile height - 70, diameter - 12 inches.
Thanks to the right choice, you won’t have to worry about buying new tires for two-wheeled vehicles for a long time. Before choosing and purchasing, you should definitely take into account all the nuances and purchase high-quality motor tires.
Wheel assembly
Before installation, determine the direction of rotation of the tire - there is a special arrow on the left or right side. If it is missing, installation can be done in any direction. Place as much of the tire on the rim as you can. Only then take hold of the screwdrivers or mounting brackets. Manufacturers recommend pumping the rear tire up to 2.5 kg/cm2. If you have a tubeless tube, the pressure increases to 3.5. Excessive pressure is only required at the initial stage so that the sidewalls are firmly seated in the rim. Then reduce the pressure to the manufacturer's recommended pressure.
Wheel trim (video)
So, now the question of how to disassemble a wheel on a scooter will not take you by surprise, since the process of removal and installation is simple, but the prerequisite is the use of tools and adherence to the correct technology.
Winter wheels for scooters 10 and 12 inches
Just like on a car, the tires on a scooter change in winter. Winter tires for scooters have additional sipes with different depths, widths and shapes, which increase grip on the road surface, remove water and snow from the tread and prevent hydroplaning. To produce winter tires for scooters, a special composition is used that contains silicic acid and other substances that provide optimal grip on wet roads. In addition, winter tires are often equipped with special studs, which significantly improve the quality of vehicle control on ice.
Winter tires
Which size fits best and why?
The choice of size in this case is completely individual and depends on the preferences of the driver and the roads on which the scooter will be driven. Many experienced scooter owners advise purchasing a 12-inch size for riding on rough roads with potholes, since larger wheel sizes go through holes and potholes on the roads much better. For city roads, you can leave 10-inch tires on your scooter.
