The scooter does not gain momentum: all possible reasons and instructions for repair

Scooter troit

When the enricher enriches the mixture, the scooter may choke. Before you start driving, you need to let the engine run a little and gain more or less stable speed . You can give the gas on the step without putting any load on the engine.

If it seems that the scooter is “troubling”, then this is usually due to the carburetor (or it simply did not have time to warm up). may be too rich . Check the spark plug. If it is black, then you need to lean the mixture. The needle may have failed . Check what condition it is in. Perhaps it has play or there is simply dirt in it. This will disrupt its operation and it will work unevenly, causing the scooter to “trouble.” It may help to simply clean the carburetor . If dirt gets there, it can easily disrupt the proper operation of the carburetor. And this in turn can cause our problem.

Other reasons why the scooter is tripping

Other causes could be a clogged air filter or a bad glow plug. In this case, you need to clean the filter or simply remove it to check the stability of operation without it. It is enough to replace the candle with another one, preferably with a high-quality one (ideally with a native one for your device). If this is the reason, then the scooter will stop tripping. And if it’s not in it, then there definitely won’t be an extra candle. It can be saved as a backup.

Doesn't start well, revs fluctuate.

15 Sep 2013, 12:05

Good afternoon I am very concerned about the current situation: the alpha moped at first began to have trouble starting. Then it started stalling after you pressed the clutch (after driving at 4-5 thousand rpm). At idle it was possible to accelerate easily. Now it is possible to start only by spinning it with the starter or using the pushrod. Singles float. And, after you give it gas, the revolutions jump to 7 thousand and slowly descend. In 3rd gear it started to stall. If you turn off the moped, you won't be able to start it. At the same time, the NGK 6 candle is normal and light. What's happened.

Re: Poor starting, revs fluctuate.

15 Sep 2013, 18:19

Troits at high rpm

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Troits at high rpm

janich » 15 Sep 2007 02:49
it was at stage 6, it doesn’t develop a maximum speed, and it’s very difficult to start a cold one (the spark plug looks like it’s overflowing, but there’s a spark). playing with the jets didn’t lead to anything. I swapped 21 to 17.5 + again a game with jacklers. result -0. in a dark room I noticed that the cap on the spark plug was shooting through - replacement. In general, I replaced the valve + cap + spark plug + a new piston hebo. The trouble remained. That is, the average speed is ok, higher - it immediately triples. Benz enters the carber (in There are no gaps in the filter). I accidentally noticed that if you reduce the gap on the spark plug, it becomes better, but the pain does not go away. In my opinion, the ignition current remains, the feeling that at high speeds there is not enough current. But what exactly is moping?? commutator or rotor/stator?? Does anyone have any thoughts??... I'm already tired...

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

by cer-berus » Sep 15, 2007 03:19 AM

Usually when you change all the gaskets and seals, then you are very surprised that the scooter starts up when cold from the first push!

cer-berus Messages: 12 Registered: Sep 14, 2007 11:46 pm

Troits at high rpm

janich » Sep 15, 2007 5:28 pm

janich wrote: it was at stage 6, it doesn’t develop a maximum speed, and it’s very difficult to start a cold one (the spark plug looks like it’s overflowing, but there’s a spark). playing with the jets didn’t lead to anything. I swapped 21 to 17.5 + again the game with jets. result -0. in a dark room I noticed that the cap on the spark plug was shooting through - replacement. In general, I replaced the valve + cap + spark plug + a new piston hebo. The trouble remained. That is, the average speed is ok, higher - it immediately triples. Benz enters the carber (in There are no gaps in the filter). I accidentally noticed that if you reduce the gap on the spark plug, it becomes better, but the pain does not go away. In my opinion, the ignition current remains, the feeling that at high speeds there is not enough current. But what exactly is moping?? commutator or rotor/stator?? Does anyone have any thoughts??... I'm already tired...

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

Fasterpast » Sep 15, 2007 5:50 pm

Reed valve?

The brakes were invented by a coward! ...But the coward was invented by the brakes! I drive: Suzuki Address V50, V100 and SkyWave Type-S 400, 650

Fasterpast Messages: 6371 Registered: Dec 22, 2000 02:00 From: Moscow What it rides on: Powered by Franco-Morini (R)

Old Man » Sep 15, 2007 09:18 pm

play with the air filter...

Women pay in kind!

Old Man Messages: 1023 Registered: May 27, 2005 07:20 pm

janich » Sep 15, 2007 11:59 pm

Fasterpast wrote: Reed valve?

visually everything fits perfectly (stock with carbon fiber), I’ll try to bend it, there’s another one.

The question on the other hand is whether such nonsense could be caused by the switch??? or “it either works or doesn’t work.”

I don't like

1-spark, when the spark plug is removed, you can see that it runs along the electrode, that is, it does not always hit one point (as if the current strength is changing)

and about the filter - what is there to play with?? the same thing is done with jets, the current is adjusted to the incoming air, or am I wrong??

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

Fasterpast » Sep 16, 2007 00:43

What filter do you have? Federal Tax Service?

The brakes were invented by a coward! ...But the coward was invented by the brakes! I drive: Suzuki Address V50, V100 and SkyWave Type-S 400, 650

Fasterpast Messages: 6371 Registered: Dec 22, 2000 02:00 From: Moscow What it rides on: Powered by Franco-Morini (R)

janich » Sep 16, 2007 01:09 AM

red sponge

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

by janich » Sep 16, 2007 01:10 am

so the thing is that before, in the same configuration as he is moping now, he then

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

by janich » Sep 16, 2007 6:34 pm

plugged the valve into another container - don’t care

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

CrashEr » Sep 16, 2007 7:04 pm

Did you change the spark plug? If so, are you sure they are not fake? What is the heat number? What pipe? Are there any foreign objects in the pipe or in the exhaust in general? Is there a dent in the pipe near the cylinder? Is the enrichment in the carburetor working? You can try to completely drown out his channel. Did you wash the carburetor CAREFULLY and EVERYWHERE (that is, generally everywhere possible)? It would be nice to borrow a working switch from someone to check.

A fully equipped Duke costs the same as two Dreadnoughts, with Dukes being more fearsome and lasting longer. (c) David Lloyd George

CrashEr Messages: 1554 Registered: May 28, 2005 18:53 From: Moscow

janich » Sep 17, 2007 00:52

I changed the spark plug, there were two working spark plugs (both glowed at number eight), one had a long thread and the other had a short thread, both worked (I went to buy a long one on the short one)

ES if I'm not mistaken). pipe C16, cylinder new zero, and the old one is also moping. We tried both carburetors, 17 and 21 (read higher). But with a favor it’s difficult, even very difficult, so I’m asking you

Could it be because of HIM that such nonsense can happen - there is a spark, but not in time / not stable / weak

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

janich » Sep 19, 2007 10:21 am

janich wrote: I
changed the spark plug, there were two working spark plugs (both glowed at number eight), one had a long thread, the other was short, both worked (I was going to buy a long one on the short one)
ES if I'm not mistaken). pipe C16, cylinder new zero, and the old one is also moping. We tried both carburetors, 17 and 21 (read higher). But with a favor it’s difficult, even very difficult, so I’m asking you
Could it be because of HIM that such nonsense can happen - there is a spark, but not in time / not stable / weak

janich Posts: 11 Registered: Sep 15, 2007 02:33

reldev » Sep 22, 2007 4:31 pm

I had a similar experience. I decided to completely disassemble it and noticed that the ground bolt was unscrewed almost all the way! Well, this may not apply to your case if you didn’t unscrew the mass...

reldev Posts: 531 Joined: Jun 26, 2006 3:41 pm

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sick guy » Sep 22, 2007 4:46 pm

I have the same problem, after 50 km/h it starts to trip, they told me that it’s my switch that is strangled. I have dio 34. Is this true? tell.

sick guy Messages: 51 Registered: Aug 22, 2007 3:49 pm

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How to check the fuel level in an Alpha carburetor

Before you begin adjusting the carburetor on an Alpha moped, you need to check the fuel level in the float chamber. To do this, we need a transparent hose, which must be attached to the drain fitting. It is better to secure the hose in a vertical position.

Next, open the fuel supply valve to the carburetor and use the drain screw, which is located near the drain fitting, to let fuel into the hose.

Gasoline will fill the space and indicate the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber. The correct level should be at the joint level of the float chamber cover.

The photo shows the correct fuel level in the float chamber of the carburetor of the Alpha RX 11 moped

If the fuel level is lower, the fuel mixture is lean. If the level in the float chamber is higher, then the mixture is rich, increased fuel consumption results and the carburetor overflows.

Hi all. It’s terribly cold in Ufa, yesterday I even got caught in a snow storm on the highway, and I don’t feel like driving at all. It's time to finish what we started and put a human carburetor on the Alpha.

Let me make a reservation right away: the point of this post is to help all owners of Chinese horizontal bikes, in particular pit bikers, figure out what is best to do and how. There is complete confusion and vacillation on the Internet on this issue, and I spent several evenings scouring the forums. In the last post, I started writing about my unequal struggle with the carburetor of a Chinese moped. After replacing it with 110 cc, the native one was categorically missed. And there was this Keihin pz-16 standing there.

In general, this is a whole series of carburetors, PZ-16, 19, 22 and so on. It is distinguished by its most elementary design, reliability and extreme vagueness of the “choke” system - the lever on it simply moves the damper, closing the flow of air into the carburetor; no additional channels are provided in it. Accordingly, when it’s cold, you need to start it with the damper closed, the position of the lever is selected experimentally, and guess what - if you close it completely, it won’t start, but opening it even halfway is the same as opening it completely, at idle there is no difference. In short, millimeter. At the same time, due to the lack of a suction system, this bastard carburetor has the following unpleasant feature - when the engine starts, it runs not at higher, but at lower speeds, and strives to stall all the time; for the first couple of minutes you need to stand and turn the handle. If you raise the idle so that it warms up properly, then the warmed-up engine will scream. For three years I tried to do everything possible with the carburetor, reconfigured it several times, but I could not get rid of this problem. This carb is suitable for 50-72 cc, and the 72 rode quite well on it. But when the engine increased in cubic capacity, the shortage in it began to be felt simply catastrophic. The engine, even in 3rd gear, stupidly refused to spin up. The main fuel jet was marked 75.

At first I decided to do the trivial thing. I went to the store and said “give me a 110cc carb.” They gave me carb. This time Keihin PZ-19. - it looks the same, so I didn’t look for the picture. So, in theory, it should have been enough for Alpha, judging by the scattered information, but that was not the case.

The freshly purchased carb was terribly poor. Only by fully raising the needle was I able to achieve at least some adequate reaction, but I could not completely overcome it. I raised the level in the float chamber, tried to rearrange the needle, danced with a tambourine, consulted with shamans, but no luck. At the same time, at high speeds everything drove perfectly, but at the bottom it was an epic failure. In the best traditions, the store refused to take this miracle back. The jet stood there without markings. I still can’t understand what’s wrong with this piece of Chinese industry, if anyone knows, please share...

^%';][] — I thought. The season begins, we need to go through a break-in, but Alfa doesn’t go. As a result, I put back the 16th carburetor, but screwed in the jets from the 19th. It turned out quite well, there was enough traction up to 5-6 thousand, but I still didn’t turn it any higher during the run-in. By the way, about the jets. On every corner they write that it comes from the Zhiguli Solex. It’s suitable, only the minimal one that I managed to find is there - marked 105 or 110, which was absolutely not suitable for me. Owners of 125-140 engines, keep in mind that you have room for creativity here. Of course, you can order a set from Alishka, but again wait

But now the run-in is over, we gradually begin to turn the handle - and we run into the same carburetor. Already in 3rd gear, the engine spins up extremely reluctantly above 6000; in 4th gear there is practically no acceleration at all. As a result, the maximum speed is no more than 70, and even that takes half an hour. I began to think about what could be done.

There is a wide variety of information on the internet about carbs. Basically, for 110-125 cc, everyone recommends the PZ-22. At the same time, many pit bikers write good reviews about Ebrov’s Mikuni VM-22. It should be noted here that despite the same numbers, the diameter of the outlet hole in Mikuni is not 22, but 26 mm, while in Keihin the numbers correspond to the cross section. For some reason, the title picture says 27, apparently there are different options.

In the end, I decided. Chinese friends have it for about 1900-2200 from different sellers, I found an offer from a Russian online store for 1990, and ordered it there. I also took a set of fuel jets for the carb.

The parcel arrived by SDEK in a week, which made me very happy.

When I started the installation, I immediately ran into some difficulties.

1. Alf intake pipe on my copy with a diameter of 22 mm. As we remember, the hole in the carburetor is 26 mm. I ground down the step using cutters, making a smooth narrowing, and at the same time polished the inner surface of the pipe, the Chinese casting is so-so and the bumps stick out. There is a plastic heat-insulating gasket between the carburetor and the pipe; it broke during the boring process - while I’m driving without it, I haven’t noticed a difference, but I’m still thinking about cutting it out of something.

2. Anyone who has used Alpha knows that such an idiotic arrangement of the air filter should have been invented. It is located in the cavity of the frame, with access from the side through a small window, and you need to contrive to combine the two halves of the rubber-plastic body inside and tighten the clamp. The halves are very hard, do not bend, do not fit together and scratch your hands, as a result, replacing the air filter takes one or two hours and a lot of swearing. The same rigid pipe sticks out from the front of the frame and fits onto the carburetor. The Mikuni carburetor, although it fits the fitting on the pipe, has a slightly different slope; in the end it was not possible to combine them. I shortened the pipe sticking out of the frame and put a thermostat pipe from a Zhiguli found in the bins on it and on the carburetor, pressed it with clamps - the seal was good. 3. Mikunevsky carb is higher in height than the native one. At the top, the throttle cable almost rests against the frame, and at the bottom, the drain fitting from the float chamber prevents the carburetor from being installed. In the end, everything fit well on top, but I had to cut off the fitting from below, otherwise it wouldn’t fit. It may be possible to find a different shape for the intake pipe to avoid this problem, but then it will be even more difficult to mate with the air filter. I didn't find it in the end. The Alfovsky throttle cable fit perfectly.

4. Mikuni has a bolt for adjusting the mixture quality not on the side, but on the bottom, and turning it is extremely inconvenient; the cylinder gets in the way. I twisted the bat, clamped in small pliers. Fortunately, according to reviews, this carburetor holds settings for a long time. Adjustment of speed XX in a human way, from the side.

Having assembled everything and started the engine, I discovered why they write that it is not suitable for these engines. At idle the engine worked well, but as soon as I tried to turn the knob, it immediately tried to stall. The original GTZ was marked 95.

Through experiments, I selected a GTZ from a set marked 88, this is the minimum that was in it. And the drin went.

At the moment, the maximum speed on a flat road without wind is more than 80 km/h. I think you can do 90 while lying down, but it’s already in the red zone, so I didn’t check. The stars are worth 16-41. The traction has increased throughout the entire rev range, from the very bottom there is such a blast that you can easily lift the front wheel off the ground at the start - and I have 85 kilos. In fact, the carb overflows a little in full manual mode - the revolutions are below 6000, but this is a matter of habit. Nevertheless, I’ll try to install GTZ 85-86 if I come across it. By the way, the set contains a maximum GTZh of 120, so the carburetor will cope with an engine up to 150 cc with a bang.

Separately, I would like to note a normally arranged “suction” with its own channels and jets. Switchable with a flag, 2 positions on and off. When you start it in the cold, it starts and holds 2.5-3 thousand, gradually raising it to 5, after half a minute you turn it off, and after turning off the speed slowly decreases. Very conveniently made. In warm weather it is not needed, the engine starts perfectly and holds idle.

In short, I’m happy as an elephant, and I recommend it to anyone who doubts.

In most cases, the candle is to blame

Yes, yes, most often the answer to the question of why the scooter does not gain momentum and stalls is the spark plug.

As a result of using low-quality fuel, the gap between the electrodes of the spark plug is filled with carbon deposits. Because of this, spark formation deteriorates, or it cannot form at all. In some cases, too small a distance between the electrodes leads to the formation of a short circuit between them.

In order to get rid of problems, it is necessary to periodically remove carbon from the spark plugs, and also use a feeler gauge to check the size of the gap between the electrodes. For two-stroke engines, the gap is 0.6 to 0.7 mm.

Owners of motorcycles in Kyiv, who often purchase scooters through the website https://dvako.com.ua/, have learned to clean the spark plug without removing it from the cylinder, simply periodically increasing the engine speed to the maximum. You can also file down the side electrode (its end should only reach the middle of the central contact) without changing the distance between the electrodes. This approach allows the spark plug to operate more stably even when carbon deposits form. But you should not remove part of the electrode if almost no carbon deposits are formed.

BRAKING

There are four types of braking: full - until the scooter stops, working - to slightly reduce the speed, parking - to hold on a slope, and emergency.

If you sharply, strongly press the brake lever, the wheel may lock - it will stop rotating and the wheel will “skid”. Locking the front wheel is dangerous - a fall is almost guaranteed. If the locking occurs at low speed, the rear wheel is likely to lift (the “stoppie” effect) and the scooter may roll over. The “skidding” of the rear wheel when moving in a straight line is not so critical, at least until the wheel begins to move to the side (in such cases they say: the wheel has skidded). If you don’t have time to release the brake in time, you will fall onto the asphalt.

On scooters with a CVT they brake in three ways: only front, only one rear, and simultaneously front and rear. Which one should you start working on earlier and which one should you press harder? It is advisable to brake simultaneously with both or with a slight advance with the rear brake.

Many beginners are prejudiced against using the front brake - they are afraid of turning over or falling. And they are mistaken: when braking, the weight falling on the front and rear wheels is redistributed, but the front one accounts for most of it. Based on this, it follows that the efficiency of one front brake is approximately 30% higher than that of only the rear. To avoid rolling over, avoid pressing the brake lever suddenly. And braking with one rear wheel is justified only on slippery surfaces.

Some people think that the rear brake is not needed at all. And this is a misconception, and a dangerous one at that. When braking with one front brake in a turn and with poor tire adhesion to the road (for example, when there is a little sand on the asphalt), the wheel drifting to the side and subsequent fall is inevitable. Therefore, do not get used to working only with the front one.

Using both brakes at the same time reduces stopping distance by 20%. When braking from a speed of 30 km/h, modern scooters stop after an average of 5–7 m.

Don't forget that you can't slow down the engine on a scooter. This means that on descents you will have to use the brakes constantly. When driving around the city, this feature does not cause any difficulties, but on long, steep descents it’s a different matter. This means that as a result of constant long-term operation, the brakes may overheat.

Why does the idle speed float?

Engine idle control is broken

Most likely, due to some factors, the regulation was carried out towards a leaner fuel mixture at idle. Adjust the idle speed using the “quantity” and “quality” screws of the fuel mixture.

The channels and/or jets of the carburetor idle system are clogged

The fuel mixture becomes lean. Remove the idle air system fuel nozzle. Clean it, wash it with fuel, blow it with compressed air. If it is deformed or its markings do not match the required ones, replace it.

Foreign air leaking into the carburetor

In this case, the fuel mixture is depleted of excess air. The engine is tripping.

Low or, on the contrary, very high degree of fuel in the carburetor float chamber

The fuel mixture again becomes leaner or, on the contrary, becomes very rich, flooding the spark plug. It is necessary to check and adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber. In addition, you should pay attention to the integrity and position of the floats, and also check the needle-shaped valve, since the size of the fuel level in the float chamber and the subsequent mixture formation directly depend on them.

Scooter air filter clogged

The degree of contamination of the air filter should be quite high, for example, as in the photo. Change the filter element.

Why you need to adjust the carburetor - reasons.

The moped accelerates sluggishly, popping sounds are heard in the carburetor or in the exhaust pipe;
Loss of power when the throttle is turned sharply;
The moped does not start well;
Increased gasoline consumption;
Black or white carbon deposits on the spark plug;
The carburetor was disassembled, cleaned, or the engine was repaired.

If you have one of the above reasons, then you need to adjust the carburetor.

The adjustment must be made on a hot engine. Start the engine and ride the moped for 10 minutes.

Also make sure that you do not have any air leaks at the carburetor connecting points, that you have a clean air filter and that the spark plug is working properly.

I will show the settings on the PZ 19 carburetor, which is installed on 110 cc engines. In principle, all carburetors are similar in design. All have two screws. This is a quality screw and a fuel mixture quantity screw.

In the figure, the arrows indicate two screws. This is a quality screw and a quantity screw. These screws adjust the idle speed.

Diagnostics and repair procedure

The scooter does not develop speed; this is generally a very popular problem among scooter owners, regardless of capacity and manufacturer. Moreover, its manifestation is quite diverse. For some people right away, for others after a run or after warming up. But there is always a reason.

There are many reasons why a scooter does not gain momentum.

So, why doesn’t the scooter gain or develop momentum?

The scooter simply doesn't have enough power. Don't be alarmed, it's just a set of mechanisms that obey the laws of mechanics, which means they can be understood and repaired. And since the scooter is a simple device, you can identify the problem yourself and fix it.

The operation of a scooter is determined by 3 components: fuel, compression and spark. Therefore, if the scooter does not gain momentum, then you must definitely check the condition of these components. And, ruling out the presence of faults sequentially, we will find the cause and eliminate it.

Doesn't develop speed and doesn't pull.

18 Sep 2012, 23:18

In general, the situation is like this: A friend called me and bought a new Alpha 50 cc moped, complete with a 72 cc piston, the mileage is only 30 km (before that it was driving fine and the traction was quite good).

He says it won’t start, there is a weak spark, he asked: before it stalled, he sneezed, shot the muffler into the carburetor - he says “Yes!” I arrived, I believed it at his word (fool), I changed my switch, the second push started with a kick, well, I think it’s in the switch, though the rpm is high 2500, well, okay, I think let it warm up. I warmed up the carburetor, I give it gas, but it doesn’t develop speed and stalls At idle, it doesn't start the first time. Then I think about the spark plug, I change the spark plug for a new one - the same, I unscrew mine, a little better, I try to drive through, but it doesn’t even pull first.

This means that there are all signs of overflow, I remove the carburetor, spin the float chamber, gasoline pours out of it, although as far as I know the level should be exactly at the chamber connector, I check it well just in case, I blow out the jets, bend the float a little (there is no time to measure the level in the float chamber, there is no time) , I check all the balls are in place, the damper also works fine, I assemble it, it started from the second click on the switch (before that, before removing the carburetor, it also started with its switch).

It works a little better, but still not the same, it also stalls after applying gas and does not pick up speed sharply (in general, it is overflowing again), I remove the air pipe and the same story.

I don’t want to install my own carburetor, because... I think with mine it won’t be better at 110 cc.

I asked, did you accidentally overheat it? He says no, he didn’t give a lot of revolutions, and he drove at 2-3, he didn’t even turn on the fourth, I was afraid. And I think it’s difficult to overheat the engine after 30 km, especially if it’s not a “boy” anymore.

Who will advise what? I still think the problem is in the carburetor.

Checking and cleaning the air filter

When the air filter is clogged, the air flow into the carburetor is greatly reduced, which leads to an over-enrichment of the mixture with gasoline, as well as increased fuel consumption, loss of power at the bottom, and increased formation of soot in the combustion chamber. This is the most common reason why a started scooter does not gain momentum.

The first thing we check is the air filter if we detect unstable operation of the scooter.

Removing the filter

If we detect unstable operation of the scooter, first of all we check the air filter:

1.Remove the filter, carefully removing along the way all parts that interfere with this process

2. We clean the filter housing from dirt.

3. Dismantle the housing, being careful not to damage it.

4. We check for damage: through holes, cracks, tears, insufficient adherence to the cover or edges of the case.

5. Carefully remove the filter from the lid.

6.If the filter is damaged or its service life has been exceeded, then simply install a new one in its place. There is no point in wasting time trying to restore it; it is not economically feasible.

Cleaning the filter

Ways to clean the scooter air filter:

Washing the filter in gasoline. Gasoline changes occur at least 2 times. Complete drying is not required.
Rinse the scooter's air filter in water using ordinary detergents intended, for example, for washing dishes, and then dry until completely dry. Drying should be natural, without heating.

Installing the filter in place

We saturate the filter with oil

After washing and drying the filter, it must be impregnated with a special impregnation or engine oil. This will save your carburetor and CPG from small dust particles that may remain on the surface of the filter. Without oil impregnation, the functionality of the filter is extremely low, so the ENTIRE surface of the filter must be covered with a thin but visible layer of oil.

If you use a special impregnation, it is enough to cover the entire surface with a thin layer. Even the smallest dust particles stick to this liquid.

Or you can just get by with regular motor oil. But the use of special impregnation is more effective.

Reinstall the filter.

Alpha moped does not gain momentum

Many owners of Alpha brand mopeds are faced with a lot of troubles, because depending on the year of manufacture, a 4-stroke engine can operate at different rates.
The technology, as you know, is Chinese, and therefore the engine will sooner or later make itself felt, quite standard breakdowns and unstable engine operation will begin. Repairing such mopeds is quite simple and inexpensive, so if you have minimal knowledge, we recommend carrying out repairs yourself. One of the most common breakdowns is when the moped does not pick up speed and the owner of the motorcycle does not know what to do, traffic stops. The first step is to find the cause of the breakdown, because it is possible that the moped will break down again in the future. When Alpha does not gain momentum, other unpleasant symptoms will result:

significant loss of power;
difficult engine starting;
increased fuel consumption;
The engine runs unstably, with fluctuations.

Spark plug

The repair procedure is quite simple, the first thing you need to do is get into the engine and find the unit that has failed. Experts point out that a frequent case of breakdown is a faulty or damaged spark plug, so the first thing we do is remove it.

Carefully examine the spark plug for defects and other damage; a working spark plug should produce a spark and do so correctly. To check, just insert the spark plug into the “cradle” and lean it against a metal surface.

Then turn on the ignition and pull the kickstarter, a spark should form on the spark plug. The absence of a gap and the presence of a huge amount of soot can also be considered a defect in the spark plug. If the reason is the spark plug, change it and try to drive again.

Advice

If the alpha moped does not gain momentum even after changing the spark plug, move on to the next probable cause.

Carburetor

Carburetor cleaning occurs regularly, so most Alpha mopeds have already disassembled the carburetor, thereby changing its original settings.

As you know, any manufacturer provides its own data regarding the settings of the carburetor of a certain model, so it is important to make this adjustment. Cleaning the carburetor is a fairly simple but important procedure; our website has a detailed description of this process

The carburetor should be blown out, washed and completely cleaned of foreign debris.

Cleaning the carburetor is a fairly simple but important procedure; our website has a detailed description of this process. The carburetor should be blown out, washed and completely cleaned of foreign debris.

Moped does not gain speed under load

The cause of such a serious breakdown could be an insufficient air supply, and often the air filter has a hole through which air passes.

In the absence of special skills, the best solution would be to contact a specialist; repairing the gas distribution system is almost impossible. In this case, experts advise buying a new air filter or a complete gas distribution unit.

The replacement process occurs as follows: the old head is removed, a new part is put in its place, and the valves and clearances are adjusted.

How to clean the muffler

Manually

With a metal cable, acting like a brush. Convenient, fast, but not for long.

Heat treatment

With a blowtorch or in an oven or barbecue (but then be sure to remove the muffler from the scooter). The muffler warms up as much as possible. With blows, the soot resulting from calcination is shed off, and it is blown out using a compressor. Effective, but the result will look unaesthetic.

Chemical treatment

Dismantle the muffler. Wash with pipe cleaner or other caustic liquid, such as sodium hydroxide. Rinse with clean water. Dry well. The end result is a very high quality one. But it’s long and difficult.

What to do if the variator belt is worn out

Both longitudinal and transverse cracks require replacement of the variator. Moreover, it is better not to delay it in order to avoid serious consequences.

Muffler cleaning

It is easy to replace the variator belt if you do not delay this procedure before the belt fails. If you tighten until the weights fall apart, you will most likely need to completely replace the entire mechanism. It’s cheaper and easier not to delay.

To change the belt, all you need is a gas wrench. But it will be difficult to completely replace the mechanism without special tools.

Other reasons why the moped stopped moving:

The air filter is clogged, if you have driven more than 2000 km, then cleaning the air filter should help.
Check the valves, if they are underpressed or pinched, so as soon as you start adding gas, the moped will lose speed.
If the moped has lost power after running in. This means that you need to reconfigure the carburetor, because during break-in all parts are ground in, the compression ratio in the engine may increase and the engine will operate differently.
The throttle cable may also stretch; if you realize that there is no click when unscrewing sharply, then you need to tighten the cable or replace it.
If you are riding a moped, you give more gas, the speed starts to rise, the engine howls, but the moped itself does not move. Then on a moped the clutch slips.
Another common problem why a moped starts to stall is overheating.
Another reason why the moped does not pull is that the valves begin to leak or the rings allow oil into the combustion chamber, then the moped will also begin to lose power.
Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the chain and sprockets, if they are worn too much - this gives additional load during rotation, so the loss of power may depend on what is heating the chain.
Also check the brakes to see if they are jammed, place the moped on the center stand and spin the wheel by hand; if it spins smoothly, then the brakes are fine. And keep an eye on your tire pressure. So if your moped has lost power and stopped pulling, then take it and check everything in every detail.

Carburetor settings.

Checking compression in the cylinder

If the scooter engine does not pick up speed, but everything is in order with the carburetor, you need to check the cylinder compression.

The compression diagnostic process will help assess the condition of the cylinder-piston group without disassembling it. As a rule, damage to the piston rings occurs with reduced compression. For four-stroke engines, it may also mean that the valves are not tightly seated in the seats.

Compression is measured with a compression gauge, which can easily be replaced with an ordinary pressure gauge with a check valve. The compression gauge is mounted in place of the spark plug in the cylinder. To purchase it, you can visit any auto store, it’s inexpensive.

The condition of the cylinder-piston group will help evaluate the compression diagnostic process

Possible reasons for low compression (less than 6 atm) or its absence:

non-working reed valve - for 2 tons of engines;
leakage through the crankcase, usually through the crankshaft seals - for 2 tons of engines;
severely burnt or insufficiently tight valves - for 4 tons of engines;
damaged cylinder head gasket;
burnout or wear of the piston, cylinder or ring;
microcracks in the cylinder head.