Chinese companies are well versed in the needs of people, and, realizing that many people need simple and inexpensive equipment, they decided to come up with a cheap moped called Delta.
This moped appeared in Russia and nearby countries not so long ago, around 2007, but even then it began to enjoy unprecedented popularity. When this type of moped entered the market, the price of the Delta moped was very low, because I remember from my own experience that when this moped appeared, the price started at 800 UAH. (2500 rubles). As you can see, this is a meager price for new equipment, albeit a small one. Also, this price was for a moped, which was then called the Farmer, but in principle this is the Delta.
Pros:
- Low price
- Large selection of parts
- Good handling and simple design
Minuses:
- Compared to Japanese technology, they do not have a long shelf life.
- Some parts are of poor quality.
- Low power.
Notes
- » "Spriditis" (English). mopedmuseum.ru. Access date: January 28, 2022.
- » Moped “Riga-9” (unspecified)
.
mopedmuseum.ru
. Access date: November 18, 2022. - Moped "Riga-13"
- Moped "Riga-13"
- Some statistics (undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 9, 1989
(September 1989). Access date: January 7, 2022. - Fifty cc ring (undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 11, 1976
(November 1976). Date accessed: December 12, 2022. - Moped "Riga-16" 1976
- V. Kleinberg.
"Riga-17S"
(undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 3, 1983
(March 1983). Date accessed: January 3, 2022. - Riga-20Yu (undefined)
. ZR (No. 4, 1984). Access date: March 18, 2015. - V. Kleinberg.
Our first mini-mock
(undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 9, 1984
(September 1984). Date accessed: January 4, 2022. - Union of Riga and Kolarov (undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 1, 1988
(January 1988). Access date: January 6, 2022. - V. Siperkovsky.
The firstborn of the Delta family
(undefined)
.
“Behind the Wheel”, No. 2, 1986
(February 1986). Date accessed: January 5, 2022.
Content
- 1 History 1.1 Riga-1
- 1.2 Riga-2
- 1.3 Riga-3
- 1.4 Riga-4
- 1.5 Riga-5
- 1.6 Riga-7
- 1.7 Riga-11
- 1.8 Riga-12
- 1.9 Riga-13
- 1.10 Riga-15S
- 1.11 Riga-16
- 1.12 Riga-17S
- 1.13 Riga-22
- 1.14 Riga-26 / Riga-Mini
- 1.15 Mini-mock “Stella” RMZ-2.136
- 1.16 "Delta"
- 1.17 Riga SZ-80
- 1.18 Closing of production
Volume expansion
The starting volume of the engine can be increased up to 110 cubic centimeters. At the same time, you need to understand that such a decision will lead to the need to register your vehicle. But it’s worth it, because the engine will begin to behave an order of magnitude more powerful and dynamic. In addition, when tuning a moped, it is also worth replacing the low-quality pistons that come with the kit. This will also have a positive effect on the operation of the engine. Thanks to the new engine, you can significantly increase the speed of your model. In fact, the Alfa will turn into a real motorcycle, and will not be a compact moped.
When replacing a cylinder, you can use components from Delta or Active. On the other hand, then you will have to change not only the cylinder, but also the crankshaft, chains, seals, rollers and, quite likely, even the carburetor.
Muffler for homemade walk-behind tractor
1 — outlet pipe (from the Minsk motorcycle);
2 — bracket (St3, strip with a section of 20×5);
5 — body (from the Minsk motorcycle);
6 — gas passage pipe (a piece of pipe from the Ural bicycle frame) with 4 gas passages and 4 mounting holes;
The muffler for the homemade walk-behind tractor based on the Minsk motorcycle was also made by hand. The body was the pipe of a standard muffler. The rolled end of this pipe was straightened using a piece of pipe used as a template. Also, to reduce noise pollution, an insert with an outlet tube was used, made by hand. Screws marked M 4 were used as fasteners.
The driver's former right footrest served well to support the outlet pipe. To do this, a bracket was attached to this step by welding, and a hole with a diameter of eight millimeters was drilled in it. The dimensions of the bracket and its location in relation to the outlet pipe were adjusted to the location.
Shifting up gears with clutch
To understand the upshift technique, perform the following experiment. Drive in second gear with the throttle slightly turned off. Now, without closing the gas handle - squeeze the clutch - you will see how the revolutions instantly rise. Close the throttle. When the load in the form of the rear wheel disappears, nothing prevents the engine from spinning up and the speed increases rapidly. That is why speed in gear shifting plays an important role. If you shift quickly, then you may not close the throttle; at the moment when the clutch is depressed, the speed rises and immediately the gear shifts up and the clutch returns. If you do this quickly, then the revolutions rise by only 1000-1500 to provide optimal conditions for upshifting with the clutch.
To change gears up with the clutch, you need to quickly squeeze the clutch, shift up and release the clutch so that the revolutions at which the next gear is engaged do not exceed the revolutions of the gear from which you are shifting by more than 1500. If you do this slowly, you need to close the throttle at the moment when the clutch is depressed, if quickly, you can hold the handle in the same position or barely close the handle. An important criterion is the speed at which you started shifting up and the difference between the speed at which you depressed the clutch and at which you released the clutch - the difference should not exceed 1000 - 1500 revolutions. With practice, gear shifting will become automatic and will not require attention.
How to change gears on a motorcycle correctly
All movements you make with the pedals must be smooth so as not to damage the transmission.
When changing gears, change one speed at a time. It is not advisable to jump.
To understand how to change gears on a motorcycle, you need to carefully study the controls. There are motorcycles with manual transmission and semi-automatic.
Method one
Motorcycles with manual transmission. All actions in this case occur in the following sequence. Pick up speed. Take off the gas. Engage the clutch. Press the gear shift pedal. Release the clutch, then the shift pedal and add gas.
To start the motorcycle, place it in neutral. After this, remove the gas and squeeze the clutch, at the same time turning on first gear. Taking your foot off the gear pedal, apply gas and release the clutch. Now add gas.
To upshift, you need to lift the gas, engage the clutch and press the gearshift pedal. After this, release the clutch, release the shift pedal and add gas.
To downshift, you need to remove the gas and engage the clutch. After this, sharply add gas, and when the speed begins to drop, press the gearshift pedal. Release the clutch and shift pedal and add gas. Once the motorcycle has stopped, be sure to put it in neutral.
Method two
Motorcycles with semi-automatic transmission. On these motorcycles, gear shifting is easier. Take off the gas and change gears. The clutch and gearbox are connected here.
Before starting the engine, place your bike in neutral. In order to engage first gear, you need to remove the gas and press the gear lever down. To increase the gear, you need to remove the gas and lift the gear lever up. To downshift, on the contrary, you need to apply gas and immediately remove your hand from the gas. When the speed starts to drop, change the speed and add gas. Now you know how to change gears on a motorcycle.
Start
The most difficult element for a beginner motorcyclist. Shift the gearbox to neutral. Make sure your elbows are bent and your center of gravity is forward. Depress the clutch. Engage first gear. From idle speed, smoothly release the clutch handle while raising the speed. If your motorcycle is equipped with a clutch lever position sensor (for example, Suzuki fuel-injected motorcycles), then you may notice how when starting from neutral the motorcycle itself adds speed - making it easier to start. Do not drop the clutch lever. Once you have mastered the soft start, you can learn to start faster. The principle of a fast start is the same as for a slow one - you load the front, your arms are bent, but the start does not start from idle speed, but from rpm from 4000 to 8000. The optimal start for a beginner in the city is to start from 3000 rpm. When starting, we recommend keeping your right foot on the rear brake - if you miscalculated the speed and the motorcycle begins to climb onto the rear wheel, use the rear brake. Often, we start where we end. Traction control when starting a motorcycle, using the rear brake, is widely used by riders when starting a motorcycle in world championships.
What is the benchmark - what is the fastest start. The fastest start is when you lie on the tank and throughout the entire acceleration line your wheel is torn off by 0.5 - 1 cm from the ground level. Taking into account bumps, this element is quite complex and, often, for its practical implementation, electronics are installed in motorcycles that control the unloading of the front wheel. On motorcycles equipped with a quick start, you can start with the throttle fully open; the electronics analyze the load on the front fork and automatically turn off the ignition as the fork becomes too unloaded. From the pilot's point of view, it looks like this: you load the front, lie down on the tank, fully unscrew the throttle and practically drop the clutch - the electronics do the rest. 99% of motorcycles are not equipped with a quick start and the pilot has to do the electronic work.
The main criterion for a successful start in the city is constant engine speed as the clutch releases. As you release the clutch, the revs begin to drop and you should try to keep the engine revs constant by opening the throttle at the same time as releasing the clutch. If you managed to do this, you can move on to the next step - reducing the clutch release time. After this exercise has begun to work out, try starting at high speeds, loading the front.
