Installing a contactless electronic ignition on a motorcycle with a boxer engine.


Mechanical or electronic

Initially, these motorcycles had mechanical ignition. Unlike BSZ, this option has low reliability. The reason is in the mechanical elements of the structure; they wear out over a certain mileage, which leads to regular failures. And you have to adjust the ignition on the Ural motorcycle much more often

The electronic ignition system on a motorcycle does not have such problems. There are practically no interacting elements here. Therefore, the service life is significantly longer. Also, thanks to improved spark formation, there are fewer problems with engine operation. The owner is also relieved of the need to regularly clean the contacts. All this leads to the massive spread of BSZ on this model.

Five random motorcycles:

BMW R 1200GS LC 2016

Triumph T 140D 750 B onneville 1979


RUB 214,000*

Suzuki DR 125S 1990

Suzuki DL 650 V-Strom Touring 2009

Gilera TG1-125 1981

Features of the electronic system

If you prefer to service your motorcycle with your own hands, then this ignition for the Urals will be an ideal option for you. It is much easier to maintain. There is no need to adjust the gaps on the contacts, which significantly reduces the time of service work. Also, the ignition timing does not change during operation.

Also, a huge advantage of this ignition option for a Ural motorcycle is that the spark plugs last longer. Thanks to more efficient spark formation, the load on them is significantly less.

Immediately after installing the new unit, you will notice an increase in engine efficiency. Fuel consumption is reduced and it becomes more responsive on the road. Also important is the absence of problems at low temperatures and wet weather.

This type of motorcycle assembly consists of the following elements:

  • Hall sensors;
  • Modulator of magnetic field into electric discharge;
  • Ignition coil;
  • Switch for distribution of spark charges;
  • High-voltage wires, terminals, fasteners.

Actually, any BSZ consists of these elements, you can also read the article Izh Planet 5, ignition adjustment, there is also information on this topic.

Installation of BSZ from VAZ 2108

You can’t find a factory electronic one here either, and it’s 2-3 times cheaper than Yekaterinburg (if I bought it, I’d only buy it). The most expensive thing to install is the coil: “3012.3705” was purchased to order. characteristics here: https://oka113.chat.ru/electric/elektric.htm#top, it cost me 46 hryvnia. The switch started at eight, then it burned out (with the engine running I disconnected the battery) then I bought “0529.3734” for 30 UAH (and all the costs, how much will the repair cost if the factory one burns out?) specifications of the switch: www.vtnauto.com/ 0529.htm - written by Akum. you can turn it off! (but it’s better not to try). Sensor - 10 UAH. In a compartment -86 UAH (16 bucks versus 55) - in my opinion, not expensive for electronics, which are equipped with parts from any manufacturer.

See the connection here: https://www.roker.kiev.ua/techinfo/techinfo/638/dop/bsz.htm or in Moto (N9/2002/p. 103)

What gave: Accuracy in the appearance of a spark in left-right. cylinders, the engine runs smoothly, the timing gears do not knock. It starts right away (if it doesn’t start, nothing will help). If the problem is not in the ignition, it will start without trouble. It works VERY stably even at speeds at which the contact ignition begins to fail, because of this the max. revolutions, and from here power. The spark strikes, it’s scary to try it with your hands, it runs without problems on spark plugs with broken side electrodes (according to the 1mm standard). The engine is no longer picky about spark plugs - it runs smoothly on all the spark plugs lying around in the garage that were once rejected. Carburetors have become easier and more accurate to regulate (they have become very sensitive and the range of adjustments has expanded. Previously, if you turned it a little too little, it won’t go (overflows), if you turned it too much, it chokes, but you can’t find the golden mean. Now, if you didn’t turn it enough, it’s a little weaker in power, but it goes; a little I twisted it - it eats more, but it tears like a beast. Well, if something is wrong, I immediately go into the carbs (the ignition is bad). If you leave the ignition on when the engine is not running, the switch itself will turn off the power after 2 seconds - the coil will not burn out and It doesn't sit down. It's easy to adjust, just set the TDC, and twist the housing until a voltage appears on the middle wire of the sensor (green) - measure with a multimeter.

It is possible to install an octane corrector (probably very convenient), if I have the money I will definitely take it. If you want, look here: https://www2.zr.ru 4th issue for 2000, article “advance with delay”.

The original coil will do (even easier - you don’t need to make a new mount), but there will be no effect of a RADIC SPARK - starting with half a turn, 1mm in spark plugs, you will have problems with carburetors, etc. All that will remain is stability, smooth running, convenience without frequent adjustments and high speeds.

In the conference this is written by those who have not tried it in practice, or they have extra money for a factory BSZ. Regarding the springs and eccentrics, frets with a Hall sensor have them, but in the Urals you will only need to adjust them correctly. In my opinion, the mass of the curtain is no more than the cam, except that the energy will not be the same due to the larger diameter and the fact that the contact is constantly sliding along the cam. If you doubt the accuracy of the calibration of the springs, you can adjust it yourself: https://lada-faq.lebedev.ru “Checking and adjusting the UOZ centrifugal regulator on a car” I personally didn’t do anything, and nothing works. Although we will have to take this more seriously. Of course, the angles will not be optimal, but I don’t think that the dynamics and all that will increase so much that you will want to spend money on something else or be smarter further, unless you have nothing else to do, and then for greater effect you will want a vacuum cleaner. I can’t feel the difference in the electronic calculation of angles (no possibilities), but I couldn’t notice the difference in the transition from contact to electronic.

If I understood electronics, I would try to assemble an electronic regulator. There is an idea to use an octane corrector with a constant delay that does not take into account the revolutions. Then, in theory, the graph of the change in angle versus revolutions would be straight, approximately the same as on the graph of a mechanical regulator, although it is unlikely that it will be optimal. But at least it will hit exactly on schedule, not like a mechanical one.

The only thing that cannot be done, which could have been done before, is to disconnect the battery and remove the wire from the spark plug without shorting it (with a gap) to ground.

Of course, the factory system is better (in terms of advance angles), but in order to simplify the design it was necessary. Price quality. I myself doubted until the last moment whether it would work or not, but when I put it in, it’s beautiful!

Contactless ignition systems

Not so long ago you could only find a homemade device. The reason is the lack of proper supply in stores. Craftsmen in garages remade the contactless unit from other motorcycle models and assembled it from individual parts. This is a rather complex activity that requires skills. Now you can purchase a ready-made kit without any problems.

There are many advantages to using ready-made products. At a minimum, they have been tested in the Urals, which guarantees reliable operation. It is also much easier to install a ready-made unit than to make it yourself. The following sets can be found on the market:

  • "SoveK". Under this brand you can find regular contactless ignition, as well as a more advanced microprocessor ignition. The assembly can be supplied with or without a bobbin. Easy to install and practically does not respond to voltage changes;
  • "Saruman." Quite an interesting and reliable assembly. There are two sensor options available here; there can be a conventional Hall sensor, or a modern optical one. There is protection against voltage surges, especially high current. To simplify setting the ignition, there is a light indication.

Using ready-made kits is currently the best option.

Five random articles about motorcycles:

Three improvements to the Java 634 for motorcycle tourists

Three proposals On the YAVA-634 motorcycle, for more convenient maintenance, I introduced a number of improvements that may be of interest to motorcycle tourists.
Here are three of them: 1. To prevent dirt from clogging the gap between the wheel and the shield when traveling on dirt roads, I raised the shield by installing an extension (photo 1) made of sheet steel. 1. This is what the shield bracket extension looks like. 2. I secured the panel under the saddle (photo 2). on which I placed a ground switch 2 (toggle switch), a block 3 with a fuse, two sockets 4 for connecting the battery, a socket 5 for connecting a lamp mounted in the base of the saddle (it illuminates the seat space), and two sockets 6 from which you can take power supply for a portable lamp, receiver, vulcanizer, etc. 2. Underseat space: 1 - panel: 2 - toggle switch; 3 — block with fuse; 4 — sockets for connecting the battery; 5 - socket for connecting a lamp embedded in the base of the saddle... Read more >>

Java 634-01. Detailed description of the new product

Meet the new Java This year, the Java 350 model 634-01 is replacing the popular YAVA-250 and YAVA-350 motorcycles of the “559-07” and “360-00” models in the USSR.
Motorcycle enthusiasts already know about this new motorcycle from articles published in the magazines “Behind the Wheel” (1973, No. 12) and “Czechoslovak Motor Review”. How does this motorcycle differ from its predecessors) We asked a representative of the foreign trade association “Motokov” to talk about this » Yana BUZEKA. The new machine was developed taking into account the vast experience gained from operating JAVA motorcycles, of which almost a million have been delivered to the USSR to date. It should be noted that these motorcycles were intended mainly for work on fairly high-quality roads. Nevertheless, as you know, thanks primarily to the exceptional reliability of the engines, JAVA motorcycles have reached areas of your vast country for which they were essentially not designed: this is... Read more >>

How to achieve smooth brake action on a Java motorcycle

“I can’t seem to get smooth brake action on my Java motorcycle.
Braking occurs jerkily, although the pads and cables are in good condition. What could be the reason?" - asks K. Lobachev named after the city of Kolomna. Jerks when braking motorcycles and cars are typical for those cases when the brake drums have an irregular (oval, faceted, etc.) shape of the working surface. The pads are pressed against it unevenly - stronger in areas located closer to the drum axis, weaker - in areas farther from it. In motorcycle (spoke) wheels, the shape of the drum is usually disrupted by strong impacts on various obstacles or due to uneven tension of the spokes (most often after reassembling the wheel ).To eliminate drum deformation, first adjust the tension of the spokes, and if this is not enough, grind the working surface of the drum on a lathe. The best results are obtained by processing the drum in the assembled wheel. If the machine does not call... Read more >>

Needle bearing and piston removal on Java 634 and ChZ 472

Attention: needle bearing Many Czechoslovak motorcycles Jawa-350 and CZ-350, which have arrived to us in recent years, have now traveled 30-50 thousand kilometers.
After such a mileage, naturally, there is often a need to replace worn parts of the cylinder-piston group and the crank mechanism. This work, as the editorial mail shows, causes difficulties for some car owners, since the new engine is structurally somewhat different from its predecessors, which were quite well studied by motorists. To help them, we are publishing an article telling about the features of its design and, in particular, about dismantling the piston. The engine used on all models of motorcycles YAVA-350 type “634” and ChZ-350 type “472”, unlike those produced earlier, has a needle bearing in the upper head of the connecting rod, where previously there was a bronze bushing. It is a steel ring (Fig. 1) with an internal diameter of 20 mm, pressed into... Read more >>

Electronics on Izhevsk cars. Basic faults, detection and elimination methods

Basic electronics faults, detection and elimination methods.
All Izhevsk motorcycles of recent years of production are equipped with electronic turn signal switches, and those with 12-volt equipment are also equipped with rectifier units. The characteristics and reliability of these devices are higher than mechanical ones, but problems also occur with them. As a rule, a failed device is replaced with a new one, which entails additional costs and consumption of spare parts. Meanwhile, if you know the circuit diagram of the device and the repair method, in most cases it can be restored. This is accessible to many motorcyclists familiar with electrical or radio equipment. We offer them recommendations prepared by design engineers from Izhevsk V. ARDASHEV and V. MEZRIN. The topic of this first article is a description of the design, testing and repair of the interrupter. On motorcycles IZH P3-02, IZH Yu3-02, IZH PS, IZH Yu4, a universal electronic turn signal interrupter IZH RP 2SM-10 has been installed since 1980. It is completely replaceable... Read more >>

login registration forgot your password?

Motorcycle goods store About the store Terms and return procedure

Selection of candles

The contactless system has certain requirements for candles. If they are faulty or do not fit a specific motor, then you will not get any positive effect from using this system.

Be sure to check the condition of the spark plugs. They should not have soot. It is optimal if the electrode has a sand color. If necessary, replace the spark plugs; when selecting, pay attention to the heat rating. When the spark plugs are in order, the electronic ignition can be installed.

Installation

Now you can install a new ignition system for the Ural motorcycle. Before starting work, dismantle the old BSZ. Installation is carried out in the following order:

  • We install a new coil, here you will need a connection diagram, otherwise problems will arise further;
  • We install the ignition module; it should be secured so that it is directed towards the coil.
  • The engine rotor is installed in the position at which the ignition is adjusted.

Now you have a contactless ignition system installed, all you have to do is configure it to achieve optimal performance. Please note that setup here is only required once. In fact, you already know how to install the BSZ.

Leave it to mechanics or install electronics

Perhaps not all older motorcycle models are running. The Ural motorcycle sits and rusts in my grandfather’s barn because it won’t start.

The wheels are spinning, the engine is not jammed. Maybe the spark goes into the ground, as they say. In short, you need to look at the spark generation system. But even a working motorcycle, with a contact ignition system, causes unexpected and unpleasant problems for its owner:

  • won't start when you really need it;
  • with new oil rings in the engine, the spark plugs become covered with soot;
  • there is no required engine power when driving with maximum load;
  • the maximum speed is not reached;
  • The battery is slightly discharged and the engine does not start.

Tuning a Ural motorcycle with your own hands - this article will help you decide in which direction to modernize your Ural.

The contact ignition system creates a lot of problems, especially when the moving parts in it have already worn out, backlash has appeared, and the geometry of the elements has changed.

Settings

Now we adjust the ignition timing. We install the motor in accordance with the marks, connect all the wires. Next you need to adjust the position of the sensors. Next, we attach all the elements and check for sparking. If everything is fine, then you should drive 10-20 kilometers and check the set angle again.

If necessary, adjustments are made, but if everything is done correctly, this will not be necessary. Knowing how to do contactless ignition on your motorcycle, you will not wonder how much this work costs in a workshop.

Previous entry Motorcycle Ural M-72 – myth or legend?

Next entry Adjusting the ignition on a Ural motorcycle

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]