How to choose a new or used scooter. What to look for

≡ 26 February 2018

← Delicious beet caviar

The most delicious Caucasian adjika →

It's finished! - the money has been saved, the model of the device has been chosen through long research, advice and searches, you have already met with the seller. Here it is, your dream - it stands, dimly gleaming on its sides, exuding the smell of a hot engine, hands are shaking with anticipation, the body asks for the wheel, but the brain of a cautious, prudent person is in doubt, because the vehicle has already traveled a considerable number of thousands of kilometers, could have been in accidents, and all the difficulties and obstacles overcome on the path to the dream can turn into endless repairs with accompanying headaches. We will try to give some tips on how to check the condition of a scooter when purchasing.

Main difficulties and features:

Of course, the seller will not be completely frank with you and will very likely hide from you the malfunctions and adventures that the device experienced in his hands.

No one will allow you to disassemble the device down to the screw and check everything thoroughly, unless you remove the variator cover - more on that below.

Where to start

In terms of appearance: broken plastic, abrasions, scratches, chips can indicate both an accident and careless handling of equipment. Particular concern should be caused by severe damage to the front plastic (beak) - most likely, there was a head-on collision and possible damage to the fork or frame, and this can be treated, respectively, by replacing the fork or overhauling the chassis structure, and the quality of the repair may disappoint. In general, after such collisions, many newly acquired sores can emerge.

Next is the rubber. Bald tires directly indicate the disdainful attitude of the owner (or salon) towards equipment, Chinese tires are a normal option, old tires from famous manufacturers indicate the recent arrival of the scooter in Russia (also not bad, the scooter did not really have time to taste the delights of the Russian road surface), the presence of relatively fresh European tires of a size larger than the standard one (usually 3.00 - 10) indicate that the vehicle has been properly maintained and, possibly, is in good condition.

When inspecting the tires, we pay attention to the condition of the discs: dents and “eights” are extremely undesirable. It’s good if the wheels are tubeless and there are no cameras installed, which means that the seal is not broken, and the scooter did not jump over large holes.

We continue the external inspection: the brake levers - if they are frayed at the ends, bent or broken - are a sure sign of a fall at speed. It's the same with plastic. A huge number of stickers most likely hides defects in the coating; the presence of “beautiful” handles, light bulbs, and lighting should not obscure the buyer’s eyes with shine - rather, this indicates the recklessness of the driver and the burning of rubber in front of the amazed public - hence the wear of the clutch and parts variator

Scooters with a capacity above 250cc

Maxiscooters are very close to motorcycles in design and advanced technical equipment. They are equipped with many auxiliary mechanisms and can accelerate to 200 km/h.

Scooters with a capacity above 250cc can accelerate to 200 km/h.

Their advantages:

• power;
• good low and high beam;
• mobility;
• possibility of transporting a passenger;
• strong and durable construction.

Disadvantages:

• you need to be good at operating motorcycles, which is not suitable for beginners;
• repair and replacement of parts in case of breakdown will be expensive;
• consume a lot of fuel;
• expensive.

Best maxiscooters:

1. Honda Silver Wing.
2. Yamaha TMAX DX.

Yamaha scooter

Scooter engines

The second characteristic that significantly influences the choice of scooter is the type of engine:

The engine capacity for 2 strokes is almost always 50 cm3. The design of mopeds with such an engine is simple. A two-stroke engine functions much more simply than a four-stroke engine. All work processes take place within one revolution of the crankshaft. Power is exactly what this type of engine attracts; for this type of engine it is 60-70% higher. Such scooters are noticeably easier to control and respond more quickly to the rotation of the gas handle and pick up speed. And this is not the last advantage - such models weigh less and require lower repair costs.

Let's talk about four-stroke engines. Such models attract those who pay attention to savings. They are large in size and have good controllability, making less noise.

Moped price

The price of a scooter can vary from 35,000 rubles to 400,000 rubles. Models with larger cubic capacity are always more expensive. Also, models from Chinese manufacturers are usually cheaper.

The price of a moped depends on the capacity and manufacturer

Appearance

Externally, scooters are very similar to motorcycles, especially maxiscooters. They are small and nimble. They can be presented in any color scheme and, not surprisingly, are often tuned.

When choosing a suitable model, you must also focus on its intended use.

Let's move on to the brakes

The serviceability of the brakes is a necessary condition for moving on a scooter - not only the safety of the body’s members, but also the life of the driver often depends on them, so here we show observation and patience (the main thing is that the seller has enough of it).

You need to check the brakes while driving, but first just push the handles. Drum brake: due to the design, a “cotton” feeling cannot be avoided, but if you press on the lever and when you apply force, the lever rests on the handle, most likely the brake cable is old and stretched (although it’s possible to drive like this, it’s unpleasant). Having pressed the lever all the way, release it - if it immediately returns to its original state - good, the cable is lubricated and is in satisfactory condition, if you have to return it all the way by hand - the cable has turned sour, and the sensations on the road will not be pleasant.

Disc brake: look through the inspection window on the reservoir - if you see clear fluid standing above the mark - this is already a good sign, the absence of it or a dirty, dark color is a cause for concern. Inspect the brake disc - deep grooves and general wear promise a quick failure of the device.

What documents are needed when buying a moped?

Good day everyone!) I have a question. I am 17 years old and I already want to buy myself a moped. But it’s not just “zero”, but used. Our domestic Zid 50 Pilot. The seller does not have any documents for it (only a moped and that’s it). They say he is 99 and the documents were lost. Let’s say I buy it, draw up a purchase and sale agreement. And will I be able to travel only with this agreement? What if a traffic cop stops me and demands documents... And besides my passport and this contract, I don’t have it... When making a purchase, what documents should the seller and buyer have with them? Did the traffic police have an indication of theft? How can I prove that I didn’t steal it? So that later there would be no Rams with the cops.

edited by Sarber: 15:20 06/06/10 Sarber: 15:19 06/06/10

Suspension

Rear shock absorber: Remove the scooter from the stand and jump on the seat (not with your feet, of course), the scooter should squat and smoothly return to its starting position; the feeling of a baby rocking chair, the presence of stains on the body, hissing, whistling, squelching sounds - the shock absorber is faulty.

Front suspension: if there are shock absorbers, the steps are as follows: squeeze the front brake lever and swing the device back and forth - the conclusions are similar to those with the rear shock absorber. It is absolutely unacceptable if the fork remains in one position, despite your efforts. In the absence of hydraulics, i.e. if the front fork has guides with springs, use the same method to determine the presence/absence of backlash and jamming of the mechanism.

Compact transport

A scooter, or moped, is a small motorcycle, its engine is located below the driver, namely, under his seat. If the user mainly moves alone, without passengers, this device is the best option. The main reason is maneuverability, which is very important in urban environments.

The larger the city, the more justified the use of a scooter. The second, no less important reason is efficiency. Why pay more for fuel if it does its job functionally as a means of transportation? And if we see that it is impossible to argue with the necessity and expediency of purchasing a scooter, the first question arises: how to choose a scooter or moped? To do this, let’s try to understand the main features and selection criteria.

Electrical equipment

There must be light! All lighting equipment must work - side lights, brake lights, turn indicators, high beams, of course, don’t listen to explanations - “the light bulb is burned out, change it - and that’s it,” maybe, but this could also mean a faulty electrical wiring or a burnt-out relay-regulator , and this means additional investments and difficulties with the search. Having a battery, even if it’s old and quickly discharges, is highly desirable; without it, many problems can arise, and a new one costs about 1000-1500 rubles.

Which scooter to choose: rating of reliable and maneuverable models

If you want to buy a scooter, you have a direct route to a motorcycle dealership. These are specialized motorcycle stores where you can find not only various models of scooters, but also ATVs, jet skis, as well as spare parts and components. For those who have not yet made their choice or have no idea what exactly they want to get in the end, we suggest reading this section. In it, we have compiled a rating of the best scooters, talked about their advantages and disadvantages, and provided detailed technical characteristics of each model to make it easier for you to choose the equipment for yourself or your loved ones.

So - the engine

The engine is the main, main unit of the iron horse - its heart. It’s great if the device has a starter and a battery - the engine starts with a short press of the “START” button - great, there is hope that “the patient is more likely to be alive than dead.” We started the engine and began to listen to the sounds produced - there should be no extraneous noise (except perhaps the clanking of the starter overrunning clutch on Minarelli (Yamaha) engines and the characteristic harsh operation of Suzuki engines, but these sounds are difficult to mistake for “extraneous”). We put our foot on the step (so that the device does not jump off it and does not jump off the curb) and twist the gas handle several times, the speed should increase quickly and without interruption.

And finally, we give the owner a deposit, take his passport/keys/license as collateral and go for a test ride, let go of the steering wheel at low speed and drive for some distance “without hands”, does the scooter “steer” to the side? We refuse the device - the frame/chassis is crooked or all together, this cannot be dealt with cheaply.

The scooter should accelerate smoothly and quickly, without failures or interruptions, up to 55 km/h (a limiter may prevent further acceleration; if there is no limiter, the speed is at least 60-65 km/h). If you come across a seller who is ready to remove the variator cover, you are in luck.

Under the cover, inspect the general condition of the variator mechanisms: pay attention to the wear of the variator cheeks (the front part sitting on the crankshaft), the condition of the clutch pads (if possible on this model; as a rule, you can look at the linings through the gap between the clutch drum and the mechanism).

Unclench the rear pulley with your hands so as to loosen the belt tension and rock the front pulley - there should be no play in the crankshaft bearing, also rock the rear shaft - there should be no play here either (except for Yamaha Jog engines - here the shaft rests on a bearing in the variator cover, so play is acceptable). And one more thing - there should be no traces of oil on the variator parts.

The wear of the belt will not tell you anything, the belt is a consumable item, although, of course, if there is an openly Chinese belt with threads sticking out in all directions, this is an alarming fact, but the seller will not allow you to look at this.

Also check whether oil is leaking from the gearbox, in general - an oil stain under the scooter is unacceptable - the lubrication system is leaky, it’s better not to buy one.

Are you satisfied with the device? Did you like everything? Great - you found what you were looking for. Some moments are stressful, is there something you don’t like? Think about whether it’s worth buying this particular scooter, maybe it’s better to look at something else? Let’s add one thing - it’s still better to buy an iron friend in a showroom than from hand, at least you will still have hope for a guarantee and no mileage in Russia, but even in this case - be careful! Go for it!

Nowadays, only lazy people don’t sell scooters. They can even be found in supermarkets somewhere between TVs and soft toys. Just look, soon this popular product will appear in vegetable stores and newsstands. Yes, it’s convenient when you don’t have to look for a specialized store, but it’s risky.

In multi-product stores it is very difficult to assess the condition of a motorcycle product. The point is not only that in an environment of general fuss it is difficult to gather your thoughts. Scooters should not be sold by experts in clothing, perfume and sausages, but by people with special knowledge - capable of not only conducting adequate pre-sale preparation, but also explaining to the buyer what is what... In order to avoid a lot of misunderstandings and not waste time finding out the addresses of warranty workshops, Start studying the subject of your desires by reading a boring but useful book “Operation Manual”. At least read what is written here.

Based on my own experience of warranty and non-warranty repairs, I am obliged to pay attention to components that require special attention both at the time of purchase and, which is also very important, during the first kilometers of the run. These are the lubrication system, brakes, transmission and steering wheel.

Scooters with engine capacity up to 250cc

Medium-sized scooters with a capacity of 50 to 250 cubic meters can accelerate to 90-120 km/h. Such models often have good motorcycle functionality, and a category A driver's license is required to drive. In addition, the scooter requires qualified maintenance.

A driver's license is required for a scooter with an engine capacity of up to 250cc.

The advantages of such scooters:

1. Optimal power for most cases.
2. Optimal gasoline consumption.
3. Ability to travel long distances.
4. Availability of space for transporting passengers.
5. Good brakes.
6. Thoughtful acceleration dynamics.
7. Cruise control system and other motorcycle-specific systems.

Disadvantages: not suitable for driving by persons under 18 years of age, expensive.

The best scooters with engine capacity up to 250cc:

1. Honda Jazz/Forza 250.
2. Suzuki Bergman/Skywave 250.
3. Yamaha NMAX 150.

LAUNCH

Here are the subtleties - many novice scooter riders really don’t know them.

Buying a Scooter • The ignition key must be in the ON position.

• Check whether the battery is installed on the scooter, if so, is it charged or not. The degree of charge of the battery does not affect starting the engine with a kickstarter.

• To check whether the battery is charged, press the horn button. If the battery is “live”, then the sound should be loud and sharp.

• When starting the engine, do not turn the throttle - this will only make things worse!

• The JOY model and others with the same engine (Style, Smyle) need to be started only when you open the starting enrichment ( indicated by the arrow in photo 1 ). And in cool weather, without the enricher involved, it is completely useless to torture the starter or kick.

• Don't forget to press one of the brake levers. In this case, the limit switch should close, its rod should extend ( indicated by the arrow in photo 2 ) and the brake light should light up.

Only then will the electric starter turn on.
And the kickstarter will start the engine only when you squeeze the left brake lever. The kickstarter locking lever moves the rear brake cable tip ( indicated by the arrow in photo 3 )

First questions

First you need to decide for what purpose you plan to use your transport. The answer to the question of which scooter to choose will largely depend on this. It would be useful to remind you that the engine capacity of motor vehicles is up to 50 cubic meters. cm does not require a driver's license. There are owners of larger engines who are not afraid to drive without a driver’s license, but mostly make do with short distances or use their vehicles in sparsely populated areas and dachas.

For obvious reasons. Depending on your requirements and preferences, the price of scooters can range from 300 to 2000 USD. e. It would be a good idea to immediately decide which scooter is better to buy - new or used. And a used one will not always be cheaper, because you can buy a high-quality “Japanese” one, even if not new, or even a new one, but “Chinese”. Therefore, you will need to consider all options. We will consider the question of how to choose a used scooter.

STEERING WHEEL

It would seem that everything about it is elementary, and there is no trick to wait for - it is attached with only two bolts: one tightens the base of the steering wheel around the yoke pipe, the second passes through the pipe and tightens the base of the steering wheel. It would seem that…

This second one is very short, located in a very inconvenient place - the headlight trim prevents it from being twisted. The thread is weak, and even on the assembly line of the manufacturing plant, the assemblers, for fear of tearing it off, often do not tighten the bolt. As a result, after several days of driving, the steering wheel begins to wobble.

If you feel any play, you can contact the warranty workshop. But you can save time: remove the upper part of the front fairing, headlight trim yourself and tighten the bolt. But from experience I can advise: it’s better to immediately replace it with a longer one.

The LUBRICATION SYSTEM is one of the most important! It is very simple and reliable, but it is responsible for many returns to sellers of recently purchased scooters.

In modern scooters with 2-stroke engines, pure gasoline is poured into the fuel tank, oil is poured into a separate tank, and it is supplied to the cylinder by a special pump.
At the factory, very little oil is poured into the tank; it will only last for a few tens of kilometers. So immediately after purchasing the machine, fill the oil tank to the maximum ( the filler neck is indicated by an arrow in photo 6 ).

When you try to test run the engine in a store, as a rule, a bright red light will immediately light up ( indicated by an arrow in Photo 5 ): this means that the engine is “eating” the oil reserve, and it won’t last long. But you need to start the engine before purchasing to make sure it is working.

Pay attention to the exhaust pipe - bluish smoke should come out of it.
If the exhaust is clean, it means that the factory forgot to fill in oil - turn off the engine immediately... Fill the tank with oil, taking your time and counting: determine how much oil goes in until the reserve lamp goes out. Knowing its volume, you can then determine how long you can move with the light on. The oil pump is located in the rear wheel drive (indicated by an arrow in photo 7). Without knowing some of the subtleties of its operation, the engine can easily be ruined. Please note:

1. When the rear wheel does not spin even though the engine is on, the oil pump is not working. Hence, if you “accelerate” for a long time, standing still, not allowing the rear wheel to rotate, the motor will jam without lubrication!

2. And another ambush: if you roll the scooter for a long time with the engine not running, the oil pump will flood the crank chamber with oil. The result is a water hammer at startup and, again, the engine will jam. To ensure that the lubrication system does not fail, inspect its tubes regularly, at least once a month. If you miss, at least one of them will fray or jump off the fitting, the motor is “not a survivor.”

Types of scooters by volume

The first and most important is the engine size of the scooter. Most scooter riders dream of becoming owners of a fast and powerful horse; these characteristics are directly related to the size of the engine. But you should remember that the higher the speed and power, the higher the danger and responsibility and choose wisely.

The engine size of a scooter is an important factor when choosing

Based on engine size, all scooters are divided into 3 categories:

• small volume – up to 50 cubic meters;
• medium-sized - from 50 to 250 cubic meters;
• maxiscooters – above 250 cc.

BRAKES

Even if the scooter has undergone pre-sale preparation and the brake drive has been adjusted by the technician, re-adjustment will be needed very soon.
After all, over the first hundreds of kilometers, new parts wear in, the gap between them grows, and the brakes gradually weaken. So it's time to tighten the cables. To adjust the rear brake, simply place the scooter on the center stand. To adjust the front one, lift the front wheel off the ground - place an object under the front part of the trim. While rotating the wheels one at a time, gently press the corresponding lever. The free play of the ends of the levers before braking begins should be about 10 mm. To reduce it, turn the nuts on the ends of the cables near the wheels clockwise ( indicated by arrows in photos 8 and 9 ).

Is a purchase and sale agreement sufficient for legal ownership of a scooter?

Let's consider three situations where, according to the presentation, documents might be needed. Buying a scooter The purchase and sale process is regulated by the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, Chapter 9 – “Transactions”. This chapter can be found in its entirety, for example, here. In short, the Civil Code lists the following possible forms of transactions: oral, written and notarized. Transactions are always accompanied by a purchase and sale agreement, made orally or in writing. Transactions between legal entities and citizens are made in writing. Between ordinary citizens, an agreement can be concluded orally. What does this mean: If you buy a scooter from any company, you must have a written sales contract and be given a cash receipt. If you are buying a scooter from a private party, you can enter into an agreement verbally, without any paperwork.

According to the rules that apply to all road users. A moped is a two-wheeled vehicle with an engine (the working volume should not exceed fifty cubic centimeters and the maximum speed is limited to 50 km/h). That is why the requirements for moped drivers and bicycle drivers are largely the same, and are determined by the rules for road users.

Due to the constantly growing demand for this type of transport (especially among young people), many countries are already producing scooters for the Russian market. And knowing the peculiarities of our legislation, not all manufacturers indicate the true engine displacement of their scooters.

TRANSMISSION

Immediately after purchase, check the transmission oil level and top up if necessary.
A slight deficiency or excess of oil is not a problem - it’s bad if there is none at all. The rear wheel drive is very durable and, subject to careful care and proper operation of the machine, will not bother the owner for years. But if there is a lack of lubrication, the gears, and after them the rest of the parts, wear out in a matter of minutes. The transmission can be filled with almost any automobile or motorcycle engine oil. How many? You can learn about this from the hint label located near the filler neck. To check the oil level in the tank, place the scooter vertically and unscrew the special screw ( indicated by the arrow in photo 10 ).

Oil should come out of the hole. Tilt the scooter slightly to the left - oil should start flowing out. If it doesn’t flow, add more.

***

Restoring documents for a motorcycle

Motorbike documents that are lost or stolen can be restored. In this case, traffic police officers must provide:

• passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation;
• a certificate from the police about the initiation (or refusal to initiate a criminal case for the loss/theft of documents);
• document of ownership (DCP);
• registration certificate;
• OSAGO policy;
• registration plates;
• check for payment of state duty.

If the vehicle was driven by power of attorney, it (+ a notarized copy) must be attached to the specified list. If the vehicle was purchased on credit, you will have to first obtain permission from the bank.

Is it worth buying a new Chinese scooter?

Today, Chinese scooters in Russia have literally occupied all motor markets (like, in general, any other Chinese product in any other market). The price of Chinese scooters ranges from 20,000 to 45,000 rubles. And it is not surprising that many of our compatriots have already tried the taste of Chinese freebies - many Chinese scooters failed on the second day of operation. But despite this, in each new season we expect an even greater influx of Chinese equipment.

The main motive for this is that China produces not only bad, but also quite high-quality goods. And of course it's true. But with regard to the supply of Chinese scooters to Russia, this principle does not work well - more and more low-grade, self-falling Chinese scooters are being brought to us. It's hard to imagine that a cheap Chinese scooter will ever be able to compete with a Japanese scooter.

It often happens that a Chinese scooter is sold under the signature “Made in Taiwan,” or Malaysia, Indonesia, etc. But usually, if the cost of a scooter is not more than $1500, then it’s just a scam. For some reason, the scooter seller hopes that the name of Malaysia will ignite in the buyer a greater desire to purchase a scooter than China.

Although, for example, Taiwanese scooters are slightly better in quality than Chinese scooters, it is rare to find them, for example, in Moscow. The exception will probably be the Korean Daelim, which combines good quality and relatively low cost - about $2000.

And yet, if there is supply, then there is demand. In addition, you cannot “bury” all Chinese scooters in one fell swoop - in fact, there are Chinese manufacturers of high-quality scooters. You just need to figure it out.

What awaits a scooterist who buys a Chinese scooter? This article describes the process of testing the device - a scooter just received from China; Let's start it, drive it, then break it down into small details, analyzing the quality of assembly and workmanship.

This article became possible thanks to one of the companies that asked to test a scooter from the Chinese brand Honling and wanted to remain anonymous and, thanks to the Scootershop company, which kindly agreed to provide the premises of one of its service centers with all the necessary equipment, and participated in the analysis.

The device being tested is a 50cc, 4-stroke Honling scooter (HL50Q7-6).

Power – 2.4 hp/7.5 kW Cooling: air. Dimensions: 1705 x 675 x 1050 mm; Base: 1170 mm. The front brake is disc, the rear is drum. Weight: 110 kg. Suspension: front – telescope, rear – pendulum. Transmission – variator. Ignition – electric, kick starter. Price in Moscow : $990 US.

50cc scooters

Let's take a closer look at each type.

50cc scooters are the most popular.

Their positive aspects:

1. Acceptable price.
2. Small size.
3. Maneuverability.
4. Convenient for moving around the city and using in everyday activities.
5. They consume little fuel (2-2.5 liters per 100 km).
6. Unpretentious in repair.
7. Capable of reaching speeds from 50 to 90 km/h. Some models are capable of 100 km/h.

50 cc scooters
There is also the other side of the coin: an average speed of 60-70 km/h is often not enough. Most models are single-seater.

Scooters with a volume of 50 cubic meters are always available on the market in a wide range. The main part consists of Japanese and Chinese models. Japanese scooters are distinguished by excellent 2-stroke engines, which increases their agility and maneuverability. Such scooters can quickly take off from a standstill and accelerate to 60 km/h.

Highlighting Japanese brands, I would like to note:

1. Yamaha - they are not cheap, but they are not inferior in speed.
2. Honda is less playful and fast, but also less expensive.
3. Suzuki - have a reasonable price and good performance. Available in a limited range of models.

Assembly and launch of a Chinese scooter

Here it is, a Chinese scooter just delivered from the manufacturer, fully packaged, partially disassembled. The packaging is clever - the corners of the wooden frame are secured with metal corners, and the fastening wire is covered with plastic so as not to scratch the plastic of the scooter.

Let's take a look at the packaging - I generally like the scooter right away. The good appearance and large size are captivating. Large double seat, the set includes a large trunk (removable trunk). Although this delight dissolves as we examine the Chinese scooter more thoroughly. First things first, however.

Although the seat is large, for two people, its design does not allow one person to sit in the middle of the seat - it is made of a “step”. The case seems to be reliable, but this is only at first glance, like many things in this scooter. The trunk is made of thin aluminum, the nominal weight of luggage is 3 kg. But it is clear that even if the norm is slightly exceeded, it can easily break at the seams. In addition, one fastener is slightly bent. There is a rug under the driver's feet - an extremely impractical thing, considering that it is made of ordinary carpet.

The plastic of the scooter is, at first impression, quite bad. However, only according to the first - according to the second, it is fraught with a bunch of minor defects. These are mainly fastening elements. And the assembly of Chinese plastic is not very neat.

We place the front wheel without any obstacles. The wheel mount on this scooter is of very good quality. The speedometer drive seal is missing. The fork has corrugations instead of anthers (in principle, this is the same thing, only the corrugation breaks faster). The seals are fine.

The design of the front fork cross member is not very good. The mounting points for the fork legs are made at an angle of 45 degrees. With such fastening, even with a slight impact (curb, hole), there is a considerable risk of damage to the fork.

The tires are not bad at all, not over-dried, and of good quality.

As for the electrical connectors, it is advisable to check them all, because they were assembled, it must be said, carelessly. It’s better to check right away - otherwise a problem may arise later, albeit a small one, simply from a disconnected terminal. It is clear that it is impossible to do without the most thorough pre-sale preparation of the scooter. Having tightened and checked all the connections, we got a pretty decent picture.

All fasteners also need to be tightened.

When assembled, this scooter is very reminiscent of the Honda Spacy 125, model 94. Just as big. 50 cubes obviously won’t be enough for him.

In addition to the necessary fasteners, the underseat trunk also contained a set of tools. But the quality of these tools leaves much to be desired - you can immediately buy something better instead.

There's a whole story about the gas tank. Its lid did not open; it was blocked by a hole. And when it was finally possible to remove it and it was possible to fill it with gasoline, there was another surprise - due to the design of the filler hole of the Chinese scooter, gasoline splashed out like a fountain.

That is, there will be problems at gas stations - you need to pour fuel in a thin stream. Although I would recommend not refueling your scooter directly at a gas station, but doing it in your garage using a special watering can with a filter - today’s gas at gas stations is not so great, you can even grab some garbage. It is clear, of course, that there is a fuel filter for this, but still.

The engine oil of the Chinese scooter is available in sufficient quantities. Also lubricant in the necessary places. And in some places, in abundance. This is a good sign.

A serious omission - the ignition coil (terminals) is located in a completely unprotected place - expect trouble.

The switch looks like a similar one from the Honda Dio ZX; most likely, they are interchangeable, which is also a big plus.

The battery supplied with the scooter is quite powerful, but the wire terminals are weak.

The preparatory and assembly work is completed, the scooter is ready, you can start it. When starting with the electric starter there is a terrible sound, the scooter will not start. The second time I tried, I couldn't start the scooter either.

The scooter was started only on the tenth attempt, and then only after using ether. The reason was in the idle jet hole, as well as in the jet itself, which were clogged with small aluminum shavings. After cleaning the carburetor, the scooter engine spun at half a turn.

After eliminating the malfunction, the sound of the scooter's engine changed pleasantly, after all, four strokes. Having adjusted the carburetor, we notice that the instability of the scooter engine has also disappeared.

There is no opportunity to ride properly yet - it’s winter, but for those meters that we drove, the Chinese scooter demonstrated good traction. Usually Chinese 4-stroke engines turn out to be weaker. You might even think that the scooter has more horses than the declared 2.4 horses (although, for comparison, the 4-stroke Honda Dio has up to 6.5 hp).

Best 50cc scooters from Japan:

1. Honda Zoomer. The moped has acquired cult status in culture. Easily recognizable by its unusual design. The main disadvantage is the drum brakes.
2. Suzuki ZZ. Compact, fast and maneuverable model. Demanding on oil.

User reviews report that with proper care, such scooters can last up to 10 years.

50cc scooters from China and Japan

The main difference between scooters from China and Japan is the quality and engine parameters. The engines of all Chinese models, even 50 cc ones, are 4-stroke, which makes them slower and more clumsy. Also, Chinese scooters are less durable and break more often. However, they are much cheaper. Among Chinese scooters, the “Stels” brand is famous.

This model has a stylish appearance and a high-quality engine.

Other well-known manufacturers: Racer, Viper, Yiben, Irbis.

Best Chinese 50cc Scooters:

1. SYM Symphony SR 50 is a reliable Chinese motorcycle scooter with high-quality assembly and tenacious brakes. Easily overcomes curbs, bumps, uneven roads and speed bumps. The main disadvantage is the high price.
2. SYM Jet SportX 50SR – A fast model for those who like to drive. One of the most reliable scooters from Taiwan. Advantages: good optics; torsionally rigid frame; good acceleration dynamics. Disadvantages: uncomfortable saddle.
3. KEEWAY Street 50. Inexpensive, reliable scooter. Looks good, easy to repair and maintain. Loves good butter.

Disassembly of a Chinese scooter

And now we get to the most interesting part - disassembling this Chinese scooter. We dismantle the side body kit. Next is the rear body kit - it is removed along with the brake light. The plastic of the scooter can be removed very easily - mainly using screws and latches.

Lack of rust is a plus. Rust is not uncommon on Chinese scooters such as Gili and Quinci. This is an indication that this scooter did not stagnate in warehouses.

The air intake is high, which is good for dusty roads. Everything you need is lubricated. There are no questions about the scooter's variator - the surface is smooth and polished. CVT belt - width - 18 mm, length 670-675, that is, similar to the Honda Dio ZX. It is noticeable that from the outside this Chinese scooter copies the Honda Spacy, and its transmission is similar to the Honda Dio ZX35.

Although the Chinese air filter is oiled, it is clear that it was not done carefully. One of the fasteners is not fully tightened, the other is completely torn off. The feeling is that the Chinese assembled the scooter haphazardly, hastily. And the scooter air filter housing itself is structurally located very close to the shock absorber - that is, it is possible that the scooter will experience good bumps on itself.

The Chinese shock absorber itself is quite good. The muffler, although nice, is nothing special - an ordinary iron muffler.

The carburetor of a Chinese scooter has an accelerator pump. As already mentioned, there were metal shavings in the jets.

The plastic spark plug cap is attached sluggishly, a piece of the cap is broken off. It is also not easy to replace the spark plug itself - the standard key does not fit.

The most worthy and interesting thing about this Chinese is its engine. The compression is decent. The cylinder has an automatic chain tensioner. The engine body of the Chinese scooter is carefully molded. Further. The bearings, valves, chain, as well as the piston and cylinder are all of decent quality. The studs are made of hardened steel, which is good. It is clear that the engine was not manufactured in the same place as the rest of the scooter. All the faults that are quite common on a Chinese scooter are simply absent from the engine.

Therefore, having gone through a normal run-in on this Chinese vehicle (according to the recommendation, 1000 km for this engine), the engine will prove to be reliable in the future.

Premium models

People who are not constrained by finances have the opportunity to buy a scooter for their own pleasure and entertainment.

Premium scooters include:

1. BMW C 600 SPORT. Speeds up to 170 km/h. Owners note the model’s sportiness, high maneuverability and road stability. Perhaps this is the most reliable scooter in the world. The model behaves well in the city and has a stylish design. The only thing that can scare off potential buyers is the price - 750,000 rubles.
2. YAMAHA TMAX ABS. A powerful and beautiful moped with a purely sporty style. Very reliable and lightweight. You can’t say anything about the ease of the price - it is 849,000 rubles.
3. SUZUKI BURGMAN 400 ABS. The scooter provides the driver with the maximum level of comfort possible. Other pluses include a spacious trunk and ample lighting. Does not demonstrate the best acceleration dynamics. The price of this pleasure is 499,900 rubles.

Conclusion

Although it would be stupid to compare Chinese scooters with Japanese ones, nevertheless, the above-described process of assembling and disassembling this Chinese scooter changed the first hostile attitude towards Chinese technology. So you can buy Chinese scooters, but extremely carefully, preferably with a four-stroke engine, and imagining all the disadvantages of the Chinese. They can only be eliminated by normal pre-sale preparation with the necessary special tools and qualified specialists. Therefore, before purchasing, you need to ask whether such preparation has been carried out.

Separately from all Chinese scooters, it is necessary to note the Baotian and Huoniao conveyors, which produce high-quality scooters and are devoid of 95% of the considered Chinese shortcomings. These brands are not known in Russia, since the supply of these scooters is focused on European countries. In Russia, the HONLING brand models are better known, which are structurally practically a copy of these models.

The HUONIAO brand is produced at the DIHAO MOTORS plant and supplied to Spain.

The BAOTIAN brand is best known in Germany and the UK.

Since the scooter models we offer are intended for sale in the European market, they have high build quality and reliability. From personal experience of using the Chinese Baotian scooter (BAOTIAN Tanco 50), I can judge it as a worthy competitor to European scooter models. There are no special complaints even about its plastic (the first thing that catches your eye is the poorly assembled plastic of a Chinese scooter).

After proper running-in and removal of the speed limiters, the Chinese BAOTIAN scooter confidently goes 65-70 km/h, and its daily use is not marred by another “jamb” that would require repair or replacement of something. (I had only one problem with this scooter - the carburetor membrane broke due to a small burr inside, which was removed with sandpaper by the ever-growing Scooterists).

In addition, at the moment BAOTIAN is the only Chinese company that provides a guarantee for its products. (For some other Chinese scooters you can also find a warranty, but this is a branded warranty - given by the dealer company - and not a factory one).

As cheap as possible

The cost of any motor vehicle depends on factors such as its class, engine power and manufacturer's brand. The least burdensome from a financial point of view will be an inexpensive, small-sized “Chinese” with an engine capacity of less than 50 cubic meters. However, saving money when purchasing, you can lose when operating the vehicle. We can talk for a long time about how to choose a Chinese scooter.

Be that as it may, Chinese quality is famous for the fact that it will periodically remind you of the existence of technical problems that will need to be fixed. And bear the costs. For example, a “Japanese” one, even if it’s not new, will allow the owner to feel much calmer. Although if problems arise it will cost more. There is a lottery aspect anyway. When trying to save money, don't forget to look ahead. At least try to do it.

Cons of Chinese scooters

• Numerous jambs
• Requires a break-in period of strictly 1000 km (in our conditions, when you want to sit down and immediately drive normally, this is an important thing)
• Problems with plastic
• Complete absence of the secondary market (that is, selling a used Chinese scooter is almost impossible).

Tags: how to choose • which scooter to buy • moped • what to look for • used • purchase • scooter • transport

How to choose a good scooter

If we have decided that Chinese-made scooter models are the cheapest, then now we need to decide on the remaining options. Which scooter is better to buy? Let's look at the main differences between technology of Japanese and European origin. You can also buy a scooter from a European brand, with a large number of options. And in size, as a rule, they are larger than similar Japanese ones.

However, during use, electronic problems may arise that may not be easy to resolve. Part of these problems may be a large number of sensors, including a speed limiter sensor, which cannot be found in Japanese models. Moreover, repairs and maintenance of a “European” will definitely exceed the cost of repairs from any other manufacturer, and the cost of purchasing it will also be higher. For these reasons, it would be more appropriate to exclude Europe from our attention and focus on Japan.

Two or four bars?

Although the song for two-strokes is considered to be "sung", there is a large aftermarket for them. In addition, many Chinese companies still produce models with such engines, because the advantages of two-stroke engines cannot be abolished by law. These include: higher specific power (that is, power divided by the working volume of the cylinder), low weight, and simplicity of design. Such an engine simply has fewer parts, since gas distribution and lubrication systems are either absent or much simpler than four-stroke ones. At the same time, the engine can be easily tuned, with the help of which you can significantly increase power, as well as switch to a larger cubic capacity. The advantages of “four-stroke” engines are quiet operation, smooth traction, especially at low speed, and approximately one and a half times less gasoline consumption. Oil costs are lower than for two-stroke engines - it is changed only during maintenance, while two-stroke engines “eat” oil constantly, even despite the separate lubrication system. As for the price, Chinese two- and four-stroke scooters of the same model cost almost the same in Russia, so when choosing, you should be guided by other criteria.

Experience

We are all human, sometimes we want too much to get the model we like, especially if they sell it cheap.

It happens that you like a motorcycle so much that you don’t want to notice obvious problems. You think: “Yes, I like it so much that I’ll change these seals! I'll install fresh pipes. The color in the documents is written “gray”, but it is painted with some kind of silver, well... it’s also gray! You can scrape out the oil in the exhaust pipe with a spoon, as black as a cloud, I will scrape it out! Yes, for such money with such mileage - you have to take it! " In order not to take junk under the impression of cheapness and blind faith that everything can be fixed (without knowing how much it will cost), a voice of logic is needed. At such moments, it would be nice to have in touch or call with you someone experienced whose voice you want to listen to.

Stock or custom?

Those who like to modify their bikes and modify them in every possible way sometimes cross the line. For the buyer, this is fraught with two problems:

— externally, one model may be too similar to another. Because of this, misunderstandings arise. The buyer thinks about one motorcycle, but it turns out that he buys another, close to it - a redesigned one. Perhaps the seller will even specifically try to pass off one bike as similar if its history is unpleasant. Then look at the documents and Google pictures, compare with factory photos.

— the changes made will not allow you to register the motorcycle and pass a technical inspection. Yes, this happens too. This means that modifications were made to the design after the current owner had completed the documents, and he did not register them in any way.

They often try to sell damaged motorcycles under the guise of custom. When the bike has already wiped off the asphalt on all sides, the owners think: “Since we’re going to restore it anyway, maybe we can apply a different color, make a different steering wheel, install a loud exhaust?” When in front of you is an obviously tuned bike, you will have to talk to the owner about where, how, who and why they made all the innovations? What if they are trying to sell you “bitish” under the guise of an ordinary beautiful candy?

The engine can give away a damaged motorcycle. Replacing engine covers costs a pretty penny, so after an accident they simply sand them down and try in every possible way to hide the scratches. Take a closer look at the external condition of the lids. Small scratches are normal, but long stripes of scratches should alert you.

How to buy a used motorcycle correctly

How to buy a used motorcycle.

You have passed the first stage of becoming a motorcyclist and have chosen the model that you like. You have already been to the inspection room and, with the permission of the owners, sat on the equipment you like. Maybe even rode a bit. Now all that’s left to do is buy a similar device. This article is for those who, for whatever reason, decided to purchase a used motorcycle. This means that it will not have a plastic wrapper, it will not be delivered to you in a wooden box with company logos, and the courier will not give you a company form to sign for receipt. This will be a motorcycle with its own soul, with some changes and its own history. Used motorcycles have their “+” and their “-”. Let's start with “-“: — this is no longer a new machine from the assembly line, but a device that was under someone’s backside; - technical condition, wear of parts, etc. - can often be a mystery; — often lack of guarantees, service, etc.; — price fluctuations depending on the configuration and service life; — the need to replace consumables. From the “+” we can highlight: - the device has been run-in, minor factory/model defects have been corrected; — possible tuning from former owners; — 20% below the brand price guaranteed (excluding tuning); - possibility of bargaining when purchasing; - operating tips from the previous owner (the controversial “+”) - the opportunity to purchase a device that has been discontinued. Of course, everyone has their own “+” and “-”, for example, someone is happy that there is no need to break in. On the contrary, someone likes to feel a virgin seat under them. But since the topic is about used equipment, it means whoever is targeting it, the “+” prevails over the “-“. In principle, this happened to me too. I really liked the '93 Honda Magna VF750c. The model was discontinued in the early 2000s, so the choice of used or not used was decided immediately. Having decided on the estimated cost of the model from 140 to 220 tr. And after tightening the belt, it began to accumulate. I dismissed the credit right away - the first serious device, a rather extreme technique. Only for your own money, so that if something happens you don’t regret it and don’t be a debtor to the guys from the bank. In January 2012, the amount was collected and I began searching for equipment on websites. It is recommended to purchase a motorcycle before the start of the season. By spring, prices begin to rise following demand. Perusing the sites led me to several advertisements. I immediately brushed aside the store advertisements (they are trying to make you look good and you won’t be able to reach an agreement with them in private, and don’t forget that the store has more opportunities to make candy out of a café so that you won’t notice it when you look around). I wrote down the phone numbers of the private advertisements I liked and called the owners. Then I listened to what they were saying, asked what I needed: 1. whether the motorcycle had been in a serious accident or not; 2. how many owners according to PTS; 3. when and by whom and from where it was brought; 4. where to look, etc.; Most of the questions were, of course, brushed aside if you read the additional information in the ad.

Next, I started visiting places to inspect the motorcycle you liked. I decided to take a friend with me who knew the model of this motorcycle well (who had ridden a similar one). The first trip was also my last - I immediately liked the unit. I first paid attention to the owner - an adequate and mature man, which meant that he was unlikely to rape the motorcycle while squeezing the throttle on the highway. Not a poor man, which means he didn’t skimp on consumables and took care of his equipment. The motorcycle was imported from the States and was the only owner in the Russian Federation. How was the inspection? I warned the owner in advance not to warm up the motorcycle before my arrival. On a pre-heated engine, it is more difficult to detect a malfunction or operational problem. The motorcycle started up easily and rattled briskly with all four pistons. There were no noises, no interruptions in engine operation. Then we inspected the place where the motorcycle was stored, namely the covering underneath it, to see if there were any signs of oil leaks or other liquids that would have accumulated over the winter. Then, after turning off the equipment, we checked the smells - the dipstick smelled of oil, and the tank smelled of gasoline, and not vice versa. We pulled the gears and the clutch lever - the lever was squeezed out without problems, and the gears were easily changed. We looked at how the light was burning - it was burning evenly, which meant that everything was ok with the generator. We examined the frame for repainting - this way you can determine if the motorcycle has been involved in serious accidents or attempts to “tuning” the frame. We checked the evenness of the fork and the absence of eight-alignment in the wheels. We assessed the condition of the chain - it was clean and lubricated and there were no traces of rust. The turn came to the rubber - there should be no dents, cracks on it and there should be a tread, how could it be without it? The rubber itself should not be oak. There were some comments (the equipment was still used) - the fork seals were leaking, but this was immediately obvious and the owner gave a discount for this. The motorcycle came with new panniers, a backrest and a passenger seat, a windshield and minor tuning. Then we discussed the terms of the deal, left an advance, compared the data with the title on the frame and engine so that they matched, copied it to ourselves - to check for theft. Two weeks later I had the motorcycle. By the beginning of the season I prepared it as follows: 1. Replaced the battery 2. Oil + oil filter in the engine 3. Oil + oil seals + boots in the fork 4. Air filter 5. Spark plugs The unit was 1997, mileage 40t.km , but the condition is good and There wasn't a single complaint all season. This season I will do synchro and clean the carbs. Otherwise I do tuning. I made the following conclusions: you shouldn’t be afraid of shaggy years and untwisted speedometers, you should be afraid of broken bikes with broken engines. And the engine can be knocked down in ten minutes. So that

P/S I also felt a certain connection when I first saw this motorcycle and sat on it. I saw myself on this device, driving along the highway. I realized that he approved of me and was ready to accept me. I don’t know how to explain it to you... probably you yourself should feel something like this. Good luck in finding a motorcycle friend! Author: Azazello

How not to buy a pig in a poke? If you are a beginner, then of course it is best to consult with a knowledgeable person, or rather, take him to inspect your future horse.

Before buying, understand what you really want, ask yourself, where will I drive and how do I want to look? Or go to the nearest salon and sit on everything in a row until you like something. Starting the search for a specific option without this awareness is very dreary and is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Nowadays there is a sufficient number and range of motorcycles on the market to suit every taste. In addition, time has made small-capacity devices, which many previously did not even consider motorcycles, more popular; manufacturers, in turn, are beginning to occupy this empty, and once saturated, niche. In my opinion, this is very good, there are more beautiful and different motorcycles, as they say...

I hope you have already made your choice and know what you are looking for, otherwise here .

Even if you don’t have enough money, I will always recommend choosing a device that is simpler, weaker, but younger and a priori more reliable, all other things being equal. You want to ride a motorcycle, not repair it, right? It is worth paying attention to equipment with one- and two-cylinder engines. A small loss in power can result in a significant gain in reliability and low cost of maintenance. However, two-stroke engines, despite their simplicity, are still not worth taking, unless you are a racer and you don’t specifically need the Aprilia RS125-250 (they are the latest, the rest have long been out of production, cross bikes don’t count).

If you want something more for little money, preference in terms of reliability should be given to copies with a large displacement, guided by the principle: more volume - more resource - fewer problems. It’s better not to look towards old sports.

A little about the technical side of the purchase. Under no circumstances should you rely on the seller’s assurances about the “excellent condition of all systems and assemblies.” It's better to check everything yourself - from tires to rear-view mirrors. The mileage counter, as a rule, shows the average temperature in the hospital, but you can distinguish a large mileage from a small one by many signs. Neither a new chain on a motorcycle “with a mileage of 5,000 km” nor badly worn footpegs will escape an experienced eye. The motorcycle license plates do not indicate the year of manufacture, but the treasured numbers can be found on the brake hoses. Pay special attention to the condition of the cast wheels (there are no cracks), check for leaks of various technical fluids. A test drive should not be neglected. If the seller doesn’t trust you with the steering wheel, agree to ride behind his back for about ten kilometers. And after that, carefully examine his product again.

If you already clearly know that you only want sports, that’s good - this is a special class of motorcycles. No other type of motorcycle has such power and dynamics on the road as a sportbike. But, if you are a beginner, remember your loved ones - take a smaller cubic capacity, because you probably want a sport only because of the appearance, and now 250 cc motorcycles and even 125 can offer it. Sports motorcycles differ from others in their forced engine, lightweight frame and body kit, the cubic capacity of their engines is identical to all others, but they are more revving and more powerful than their classic or off-road counterparts (and less durable, mostly due to the style of operation).

If we talk about sports, and you have never sat on a motorcycle, then you should first take a used four-stroke bike of the 400 cc class with 53 horsepower, but there aren’t any of those left anymore, they’re all very ancient (unless you look for a Kawasaki ZXR-II from 98th). So the choice now is: either 250cc or 600. For a beginner, I would again recommend 250cc. And there’s no need to be complex, it’s beautiful, reliable and relatively inexpensive. By the way, soon one company will release a 400 cc road sports motorcycle, which, of course, is not such an uncompromising sports bike as it was before (values ​​change, marketing, etc.), but it is beautiful, and many people need just that.

It is recommended to take a motorcycle with a power of 100 or more horsepower only when you have fully mastered the features of driving this class of motorcycle. In general, you still have time... Skill, it does not depend on the power of the engine, anyone can unscrew it in a straight line, and the whole thrill is in the turns!

INSPECTION

Before starting the inspection, attention should be paid to the year of manufacture. And here's why: all old technology suffers from aging diseases, sooner or later you will feel them on yourself. Moreover, these diseases can only be treated by very patient owners who are in love with their equipment. Usually, malfunctions accumulate like a lump, something almost doesn’t work, here it creaks a little, and there are things that are no longer profitable to repair. Therefore, I do not recommend buying a motorcycle older than 1998. Why '98? Yes, because that year they were still making the last good four hundred, which still makes sense to look for.

Besides the fact that an old motorcycle may have all sorts of personal problems, you may also have others: what motorcyclist doesn't fall? - everyone falls, and when they get up and begin to inspect the damage, they realize that they are in trouble, and quite a lot. Golden rule: spare parts for old and rare bikes that are no longer in production are more expensive and it is very difficult to get them in Russia.

Let's say you have already made your choice, chosen the manufacturer, type, model, or you just liked a motorcycle. What to look for during the first inspection? An external inspection will give you the most valuable information: whether the motorcycle has been in a serious accident; this can be seen with the naked eye - bent or welded frame components; crumpled muffler, sawn handlebars, engine covers, axle and wheel nuts... Fairings usually suffer the most during a fall, so if the fairing has significant damage, you should begin the inspection more carefully. Some aluminum parts can be assembled piece by piece and welded with argon.

Pay attention to the rubber: if the motorcycle has been standing for a long time without moving, the rubber is most likely cracked (i.e., has become unusable). Such tires will definitely need to be replaced, even if the tread is slightly worn, and this is a reason to bargain 100-300 bucks, depending on the type of tire.

Brake discs indicate how the motorcycle was used and how the previous owner treated it: if deep grooves are clearly visible on the disc, it means the discs are old, they were actively used, and the motorcycle has a long mileage (20 thousand km during normal driving (in In showrooms, it’s amazing that many motors have exactly the same mileage) the rims remain smooth).

Oil leaks on the fork and shock absorbers should alert you: you will have to change the seals, which is not a very pleasant procedure. But the main thing is that the pipes are not bent, and that there are no nicks or rust on their coating, otherwise the seals will not help. Sometimes a leak can only be discovered after a short drive.

In general, during the inspection you need to make sure that there are no oil leaks from the engine and from under the block head and antifreeze from the radiator and pipes (if the motorcycle is equipped with a water cooling system).

Engine starting. If there is at least half a liter of fuel splashing in the gas tank, the starter should make 3-4 turns and the engine should start - easily. Starting must be done “cold” - with poor compression it will take a long time to start. Then the engine must be allowed to warm up (at least to 1/3 of the temperature scale). If no knocking or grinding noises are heard from the warmed-up engine, everything is OK. We look at the exhaust: the smoke should be transparent or white (if it’s cold, but it will disappear as it warms up). If the smoke is definitely blue or black, everything is bad. The engine is a single monolithic system and its repair can cost half the motorcycle.

The electrical system must be faultless: the headlight, turn signals and brake light must work; Check the cables and contacts again. You need to know that you should watch the battery immediately after purchase: if the bike has been standing for a long time, the battery could “die” - an unpleasant surprise on a long trip.

And finally, what you shouldn’t pay attention to is the speedometer, although it should work. All measuring equipment (as on cars) is “twisted”. During a more or less active season when driving to work (not every day), but without long-distance driving, I get 8-10 thousand km. The speed limit on a Japanese motorcycle is determined not by the max speed indicator, but by laboratory tests. Therefore, a motorcycle with a speedometer of 180 km/h can go 210.

What should you check first? Brake pads

Their thickness must be at least 2 mm.

Chain, stars

The chain must be correctly tensioned (deflection 30-40mm), lubricated and have approximately the same freedom of links in any arbitrary area (should not be pulled by the link from the rear sprocket, but sit tightly). Replaced according to the rules with a set with stars, it is not cheap. The wear of the teeth should be minimal, and their shape should not be hook-shaped.

Engine oil

The oil should be clean and should not smell like anything other than oil. If you smell gasoline in it, forget about this specimen, quickly leave it and never come back. If the oil smells burnt or is too black or dirty, also see the tip above. Typically, the oil must be changed every 5-6 thousand km or once a year before the start of the season (in any case).

Brake fluid

Should be light brown or at most dark brown. If it's black but the brakes seem to be working fine, there shouldn't be a problem. If, when the brake fluid is black, the discs are not completely blocked when the brake lever is depressed or the lever is soft, then problems are possible. At a minimum, the brake master cylinder and brake pistons on the calipers will have to be replaced or repaired. This is not a difficult job, which will nevertheless delay the realization of your dream of “buying and driving” for an indefinite period of time. Brake fluid should be changed at least once every two years, preferably annually. Fresh liquid is almost clear, like water, except that the viscosity is higher (except for DOT5, which looks like a vanilla milkshake from McDonald's).

Fork

There should be no leaks from under the seals. Push the fork several times, preferably all the way, and wipe the pipes with your finger - there should be practically no traces of oil left on them. If the fork is leaking, then you will have to pay 80-100 dollars (+ salary) to the motorcycle dealership to replace the oil seals, even though you yourself will remove the fork from the motorcycle and bring it to them for repair. Or an evening spent in the garage, if you decide to do it yourself (this requires special tools). The fork oil must be changed annually. Look at the side of the fork and make sure that the pipes are straight (a slight bend can still be corrected, there should be no kinks left).

Scratches

If there are scratches on the exhaust pipes and plastic, this is evidence that the motorcycle has been dropped. The owner must be able to clearly explain how this happened, if he did it, and not the previous owner (a normal owner was interested in the history of the motorcycle and the previous owner). Check the condition of the controls - whether the levers on the steering wheel, gear shift levers, rear brake levers, etc. are bent.

Lighting engineering

Check the condition of the head lights (low and high), turn signals (rear and front, on both sides) and the operation of the brake light (by pressing the front and rear brake levers separately).

Tires

Ideally, tires should be no more than three years old and the tread depth should be at least 3 mm. If they do not meet any of the specified parameters, immediately plan to purchase new tires. There is no need to change both tires at the same time if one of them is still in good condition. Indicators for immediate replacement are stiffness, dryness of the rubber, and the presence of cracks both in the tread and on the sidewalls.

Wheels

The wheels should rotate with minimal effort. If the force is significant, it means the pads are seizing or the wheel bearings have run out. Both are easy to cure, but the presence of such problems should affect the final price.

Appearance

If an owner cares about the inside of his motorcycle, then he probably also cares about how it looks on the outside. At a minimum, you should expect the motorcycle to be freshly washed before inspection. Obviously, a good appearance does not guarantee a decent technical condition of a motorcycle, however, as a rule, an enthusiast of his business cares about appearance not least.

Pendulum

Hang the rear wheel and, holding it firmly with both hands, swing it left and right and up and down. There should be no play in the pendulum. If there are noticeable backlashes or knocks, you can set aside some money in advance to replace the bearings or pendulum bushings.

Steering column bearings

Hang the front wheel on an upright motorcycle. Try to find the central position of the front wheel with your hands and fix it there. If the bearings are in good condition, this will be quite difficult to do - the wheel will always tend to turn in one direction or another. If, after you release it, it remains in this position, then the steering column bearings are most likely worn out. There should be no grinding sounds or jolts when turning the steering wheel. When turning from lock to lock in both directions, the steering wheel should move smoothly. If the bearings are just slightly too tight or under tightened, it's an easy fix.

Fuel tank

Does it have a lot of rust? If yes, then this is the first sign that the motorcycle has been sitting idle for a long time. This, in fact, is not a problem if the rust is not through, but you must be aware that you will have to work a little here too. Rust is removed using fine gravel poured into a previously removed tank along with kerosene or other penetrating liquid. The tank will have to be shaken, after which the rust will come off the inner walls. And finally, I recommend coating the inside of the tank with Kreem, which will forever protect the inside of the tank from rust. After installing the tank, insert a fine fuel filter into the tube running from the tap to the carburetor or fuel pump. If the rust is through, then a used tank can cost half the price of a new one. Well, if it is rusted through and through in a hidden place, then a screw with large diameter washers, wrapped in this hole and coated with a compound such as cold welding, can help you out.

In fact, when evaluating a used motorcycle, estimate the price you would be willing to pay for it if it were in perfect condition, and start subtracting the cost of any repairs that will have to be made. The result will be a more or less acceptable price for this copy. If it turns out to be higher than the seller's asking price, take it. You can, of course, continue to bargain in this case, but keep in mind that in this case the chances of greatly reducing the price are small. If the price calculated by you turns out to be much lower than that named by the seller, then bargain without hesitation, and at the same time try to explain to the seller how you came to this amount. If he doesn't understand, there's no point in continuing. You can always find another motorcycle; you don’t have to buy the first one you come across, especially if you suspect that you will have to overpay. If the motorcycle is already in good condition and the price is normal, you shouldn’t “offend” its owner with the offer “let’s do it for 100”... appreciate honest people!

I’ll repeat it again: don’t grab the first motorcycle you see! There are plenty of used goods on the market, so don’t limit your choice. For this reason, it is advisable, if possible, to take with you to the “bride” a motorcycle expert or just a good friend, who will somewhat cool down your understandable ardor and help you spot something that has escaped your cursory glance.

Article from the site https://motovibor.ru/

Article from Moto (taken from here: https://motocitizen.info/forum/topic/9853-chto-nuzhno-proverjat-pri-pokupke-motocikla-bu/page-2#entry226789)

Leaks reveal gaps

Technical fluids will definitely find a way out if there are gaps somewhere. They are the ones who will tell you that, at best, only the oil seal is going to be replaced. Which means it’s time to bargain and ask questions again! Has the fork been moved? How does the engine or radiator feel? Oil filter, but which one hit ten? When was the oil changed and where? Don't forget that there are ancient models that like to eat oil from the factory. It is better to learn these subtleties from experienced ones in advance, so as not to buy into something where it should not be.

Oil accumulation inside the exhaust pipe is also a so-so sign. But during the inspection, nothing prevents you from pulling up all the dipsticks and assessing the condition of the oil in all containers.

Not only oil leaks, but also gasoline. Gaps in the fuel system are dangerous. One claim and here comes the ghost rider, the human torch, in person! Inspect the hoses for cracks. What do the connection points look like?

“Motorcycle fuel system. How it works?"

Look closely for the appearance of rust. It will give you hints about how and where the bike was stored. And also that she will have to be treated.

Carefully inspect the frame. Motorcycles with overcooked frames cannot be registered. I personally know sad examples when people saved for a long time for their first motorcycle, and after the purchase, during inspection they were told that such a frame was not in good condition. The welding site was under the tank, which no one looked under before purchasing.

Top 5 mistakes of a novice motorcyclist

The most difficult thing is to correctly evaluate a sportbike. Problems may be hidden by plastic, and no one will be able to remove it so easily. It remains to learn more carefully about the owner’s driving habits.