How to check the oil level on a moped?
Some scooters use a sight glass to indicate the engine oil level. To check the oil level using the sight glass, place the scooter in an upright position and allow the sight glass to fill with oil. A marking on the sight glass will indicate whether the oil supply is full or empty.
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If you read my previous posts, then you know that I bought a java and Minsk became not so interesting to me, and I sold it.. By the end of the season, I began to miss a motorcycle for dirt, and I was used to riding in winter, and a motorcycle for winter no... And then one day I was washing the java in the garage and found out that in the next garage there was a sunrise, which the owner didn’t really need. I decided to find out about this sunrise, it was a 3m green sunrise, in basically working condition, it just wouldn’t start... but it seemed like I had driven it before) We agreed with the owner for 1000 rubles. I ran home to get the money, brought it to the owner, and rolled it with my father into our garage (or rather, my dad’s worker). Well, here I am, the owner of the sunrise. These are the photos right after purchase:
On the same day I began to revive the sunrise... I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned it. I took off the right crankcase cover, removed the generator, it turned out to be all rusty, but there was a spark... I cleaned the rotor and contacts a little. I drained 92 gasoline from the java, filled it in at sunrise, sucked it in, and with the third press on the kick starter it started. I was glad that everything was so good. I started checking the electrics and it turns out everything works! Turn signals, high/low headlights, etc... only the engine/stop did not work. Then I began to pump up the tires and remove the grass from it... it had been standing on the street for years, the grass was all over it) Well, that’s basically all I did to it that day. I went home to show off to my dad) Well, I took another photo:
After that I started using it. The only thing I didn’t like about it was the way it started, at negative temperatures you need to start it for 10-15 minutes) In winter it turned into torture!) (For example, Minsk at -25 starts the same way as sunrise at -5 degrees) In winter also I didn’t like that the front tire didn’t hold up at all... there was understeer (the steering wheel turned, but the motorcycle continued to move forward). I decided that I needed to change the tires, I found an old, bald, but very soft Barum from a friend (who doesn’t know, old ladies used to have such tires on their Javas) I decided that it would be better than the original hard tires, and I was right. On ice, the front wheel held up just fine compared to the original tires, but the motorcycle couldn’t be controlled in loose snow, but I was driving on the roads) It was frosty, and it turned out that the kick-starter foot was resting on something... I somehow turned it over , and started the motorcycle... went to a warm garage to figure out what was wrong with it, there was a suspicion that there was water in the box. I arrived at the garage, warmed up the motorcycle, began to drain the oil from the fork... I was very amazed, I had never seen anything like this... instead of thinking, a stream of water started pouring out! Red water with no signs of oil! I immediately realized that the engine would not be any better... And so I unscrew the drain bolt and exactly the same water flows out! I’ve never heard of this, much less seen it... As I understand it, the water condensed there over several years, because he stood on the street. And so I changed the oil, poured into the fork I don’t remember what kind of oil... but the viscosity was 5, it’s better to fill in a less viscous one) And in the box there was a simple oil, Lukoil M8V. So I left the winter, and spring came... in the spring the steering wheel floated very much in the mud, because... the front tires were bald. I drove in 1.2 gear. One day I was driving quietly through the forest, I switched to third and... the sunrise stalled, out of the blue, just like that... I immediately thought about the piston, I heard a strange sound when it stalled... and it turned out, I press the kick, and it presses on almost without resistance . I had to roll about 2-3 km home) I won’t tell you how I rolled, I had a lot of bad thoughts) At home I took it apart and this is what I found:
As it turned out, the stopper that holds the finger fell out and scratched everything, and then flew into the exhaust pipe. I also discovered that there were three rings on the piston; as it turned out later, there was some kind of non-standard piston there... I don’t know why. I was sorry to spend money on it, it was decided to leave it standing on the street until better times. I put the cylinder back on without the piston, put the head back on and tightened the nuts a little... so that water wouldn't get in... and so it remained standing.
To be continued..
Features of running in a new tool
This concept includes a gentle operating mode of the chainsaw at the initial stage of its operation. The technology also provides for the engine to operate on a mixture with an increased content of motor oil by 20%.
The break-in time in engine hours is indicated in the attached instructions. In practice, to reach the working level of the tool, 3-5 refills of the saw’s gas tank are sufficient.
New models do not need to be broken in, but it is not recommended to use the chainsaw with heavy loads during the first hours of operation.
The main type of fuel for two-stroke engines is a mixture of oil and gasoline. One of the reasons for damage to the mechanism may be incorrect production of the presented mixture. The situation when there is no oil in gasoline at all is also fraught with troubles. To make a mixture of this kind, a special oil is used, which has a special marking. It indicates what exactly it should be used for. Experienced drivers and mechanics know that creating an effective mixture is not easy. It is necessary to correctly calculate the ratio of gasoline and oil for a two-stroke engine.
Some car owners resort to personal recipes, supplementing the mixture with certain “secret” ingredients, including soda. For the correct production of the fuel mixture, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer.
Ignition and carburetor
It is these two components that, as a rule, determine the stability of the engine. Often, interruptions in the crankshaft rotation speed, loss of traction, and difficulties starting the engine are associated precisely with their malfunctions. Repairing the ignition and carburetor usually comes down to adjusting them. Setting the ignition includes setting the gap between the coil core and the sensor magnet within 0.295...0.305 mm. The piston ignition timing should be 3.5-5 mm to top dead center. Adjusting the carburetor is somewhat more difficult. If you are repairing a Voskhod-3M motorcycle, then you will have to deal with the K65V carburetor, and the main tools will be the quality and quantity screws included in its design. Using the first, you can lean or enrich the mixture - change the proportion of fuel and air entering the cylinder. The second determines its volume per working cycle. With the standard setting, the quality screw is screwed in completely and then unscrewed half a turn. Then the rotation of the quantity screw achieves the minimum stable speed and the quality of the mixture is re-adjusted. Finding the optimal adjustment balance is a search for maximum traction and stability with minimum fuel consumption.
Lubricants
More stringent criteria for selecting an oil component. The best option is a mineral or semi-synthetic motor oil recommended by the manufacturer, designed for use in high-speed two-stroke air-cooled internal combustion engines.
The advantage of mineral oils is their lower cost. Their more expensive semi-synthetic and synthetic analogues compare favorably with improved performance characteristics and compliance with environmental standards.
Synthetics:
- maintain performance properties over a wide range of operating temperatures;
- do not form soot;
- contain detergents, antioxidants, preservatives and other additives useful for the operation of the power unit.
Transmission
During transmission repairs, the following work may be required:
- Adjusting the clutch, replacing its disc and bearing;
- Clutch drive repair;
- Replacement of gearbox bearings;
- Repair of switching module parts;
- Restoration or replacement of gearbox gears.
Most of them require high qualifications and are difficult to do at home. The exception is the repair and replacement of drive mechanisms. So, sometimes there is a need to restore the splines for the gearbox foot, replace the clutch cable or its jacket, or adjust the clutch. These works are carried out without disassembling the crankcase.
Repair and operation of the Voskhod motorcycle are closely interconnected due to the age of the model. However, with the proper approach to organizing and carrying out repairs, the motorcycle will remain your faithful friend and assistant for a long time.
Source
Engine diagram Voskhod 3m
1 – spark plug A23; 2 – cylinder head; 3 – cylinder head gasket; 4 – cylinder; 5 – piston ring; 6 – piston; 7 – piston pin; 8 – needle bearing; 9 – cylinder gasket; 10 – connecting rod; 11 – bearing lubrication channel; 12 – ball bearing; 13 – right crankshaft oil seal; 14 – right main crankshaft journal; 15 – generator; 16 – movable gear of the second gear; 17 – primary shaft with gear; 18 – main gear; 19 – gearbox and clutch housing; 20 – clutch release rod; 21 – pin of the clutch release mechanism; 22 – gearbox oil seal; 23 – reverse gear sprocket; 24 – generator cover; 25 – crankcase (right half); 26 – gear shift shaft; 27 – crankcase (left half); 28 – trigger shaft; 29 – trigger spring; 30 – trigger sector; 31 – trigger gear; 32 – trigger ratchet; 33 – kickstarter shaft oil seal; 34 – kickstarter shaft oil seal cap; 35 – kickstarter lever; 36 – gear shift lever; 37 – clutch disc; 38 – adjusting screw; 39 – internal clutch drum; 40 – leading clutch disc; 41 – outer clutch drum; 42 – left main crankshaft journal; 43 – front drive sprocket; 44 – chain PV-9.525-1300; 45 – clutch cover; 46 – left crankshaft oil seal; 47 – ball bearing; 48 – bearing lubrication channel.
Current time: 24 Mar 2022, 13:32 Advanced search
Preparation
Russian is Russian, so until we process all the parts properly with a file before installation, nothing will work out...
Insert the cylinder rings and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap in the lock.
- If the gap is less than normal, file the ends of the rings with a file
To reduce engine noise and speed up the ring grinding process, remove small chamfers on their working edges (preferably)
To improve lubrication of the piston pin, use a 5-6 mm drill to drill through holes in the piston bosses (optional)
We remove flashes and deposits of metal in the cylinder windows and round the edges along which the rings go
After finishing work, we thoroughly wash all the parts, prepare a clean work area and begin assembly.
What oil to dilute gasoline for a motorcycle
How much oil should you pour per liter of gasoline into a motorcycle? What are the proportions? Java motorcycle single cylinder (old lady)
Isn't it written on the gas cap? As far as I remember, from 1:25 during the run-in to 1:40 after. 1:100 is very little! The engine will seize! Just found it. Quote: Q: What oil should I add to the mixture? In what proportion? A: Two-stroke only! No M-6, M-8, M-10! If you find an MS-20 or MK-22 (smile), then you can have it. But you're unlikely to find it. Of the available ones, the MGD-14M is quite suitable. The proportion depends on the oil. As a rule, the proportion limits are written on the packaging - I recommend pouring to the maximum, taking into account the fact that we usually use gasoline other than 76 (for example, if it is possible from 1/40 to 1/50, then pour 1/40). If there is really a lot of smoke, you can dilute the mixture in the tank with pure gasoline. See source. The address is in one line, after new there is a hash. Can't insert link - crashes! https://www.jawaold.su/main.php?sec=gar&page=faq-new #What oil to add to the mixture
Tuning options
Refinement of the design involves internal or external tuning. During internal modifications, the engine is rebuilt, driving parameters, suspension, and brakes are optimized. When external modifications are made, the motor vehicle is given a sporty style or it is converted into a chopper.
Features of internal tuning
Owners often rework the Voskhod-3M engine. To increase engine thrust, the factory paper air filter is replaced with foam filter elements. This helps reduce air exhaust friction. Then the jets and diffusers are polished using an abrasive material, the diameter of which affects the volume of fuel entering the engine.
To improve the fuel exhaust system, a new modernized carburetor is installed. From the existing pipe, take flanges for mounting on the cylinders, grind out aluminum bushings, and cut off the flange from the exhaust pipe. In an old carburetor, take a second flange. Using cold welding, the parts are connected.
The design is adjusted until it fits perfectly into the exhaust channels. Internal gaps are filled using epoxy glue.
Often rear adjustable shock absorbers are installed and sports tires are installed. When performing such tuning, the motorcycle becomes more aggressive and sporty.
Performing external tuning
In a sporty style
With a low seating position and a high front fork, there is a desire to modify the motorcycle in accordance with the sporty style. To do this, raise the rear shock absorbers and replace the exhaust pipe elbow. This way the exhaust pipe is level with the rear axle. Exhaust pipes with a larger diameter will improve the design and increase the traction of the bike.
External modifications can include painting, chrome plating, installation of nickel-plated arches instead of the old factory protection, installation of large rear-view mirrors, stepped seats and wheel tuning.
At the end of the tuning, a sports fairing is installed.
Chopper
When performing tuning for a chopper, shortened rear shock absorbers are cut off or purchased. Thanks to this replacement, the rear of the motorcycle will be lowered by several centimeters. The rear fork and wheel are replaced with wider ones. The angle of inclination of the front fork axis is replaced, and the cylinder covers are equipped with chrome plated cups. The same style is followed when tuning the headlights, rear lights, and dashboard.
Tuning for Cafe-bike
With such a modification, to reduce costs, they weld the rear part of the frame with their own hands, shorten the fork, trim and adjust other parts. For the steering wheel and seat, your own strength may also be sufficient. A headlight with a brake light is installed from trucks.
Most owners can carry out tuning on their own using only purchased parts due to the simplicity of the designs and the low cost of spare parts.
