Fans of fast driving from time to time are faced with the need to update the appearance of their “iron friend”. Painting a motorcycle is an exciting, but at the same time responsible business. Any incorrect action can lead to dire consequences: poor-quality painting, rust, surface defects.
Spray paint for motorcycles
Spray paints are a simple and effective way to update or enhance the appearance of motorcycle components. Thanks to specially developed varnish compositions, the engine, discs or even brake pads will look like new, and the entire bike will shine against the background of similar models.
- For quick repairs, paint is most often offered to motorcyclists in the form of an easy-to-apply spray.
- This spray varnish allows you to quickly apply varnish to a surface, even in hard-to-reach places that would otherwise require removing one of the motorcycle parts covering it.
- Each spray will cover 1/3 to 1/2 m² with 2-3 coats of paint.
Varnishes are divided mainly according to the structural element to which they are applied, and, in particular, according to its working environment. A typical aerosol varnish is intended for surfaces not exposed to aggressive external factors.
Wheel rim or pad varnishes will require greater durability, and the most durable ones will be used for the engine or exhaust system, where fairly high temperatures periodically occur.
What to do with old paintwork
As for the old paintwork, if the fit is good, it is not necessary to remove it.
If obvious swelling and swelling of the paint and varnish material is visible, the varnish begins to “crumple”, peel off and comes off along with the tape, then it is advisable to remove the coating completely.
This can be done in two ways - chemically (using a special product - auto-wash) or mechanically (here you can’t do without a grinder). In other cases, 500-800 sandpaper is sufficient.
Do not forget about the elements removed from the car body - they also need to be washed well, cleaned of rust, dried and set aside.
Motorcycle Powder Paint
Often when we repair a motorcycle, we consider powder coating some parts of the motorcycle. Although powder coating is not suitable for working on sheet metal, it is a popular technique among bikers to use this technique to paint a frame.
Currently, the market offers a wide selection of Russian and foreign powder paints, so the choice is up to the motorcyclist.
Powder paints are usually applied to the material by electrostatic spraying (the painted material is polarized so that it attracts paint particles),
- Less commonly, electrokinetic spraying,
- The paint is then baked in an oven at a temperature
- Suitable for the given product (approx. 200°C) and for the specified time depending on the paint and size of the item.
As a result of exposure to high temperature, the paint dissolves and spreads over the surface, creating a smooth, streak-free coating.
Spectacular colors
Acid colors are not a luxury these days. As well as light-emitting paints. Even when painting with liquid rubber, there are tones from the “eye-popping” series, which, after being applied to white primer, become especially bright. The topic is relevant for painting wheels and, of course, for cool sportbike pilots or stunters. These guys know how and love to attract attention.
Vinolography has recently joined the creation of images, which is slowly squeezing good old airbrushing from the market. Airbrushing is the ultimate in customization of a design, but, unfortunately, does not have the same level of protection as vinyl film.
However, the skillful combination of color and the skill of the airbrush artist gives birth to truly amazing works. Moreover, the presence of candy paints in airbrushing will add depth and special brightness to the tone.
Types of powder paints
There are several types of powder paints, which distinguish them according to the conditions of use and resistance to weather conditions and chemical factors:
- Epoxy;
- Polyester;
- Polyurethane.
From the point of view of application in a motorcycle, we are primarily interested in resistance to gasoline.
Epoxy paints have a high resistance to chemical factors, including reasonable resistance to gasoline, but their use is definitely limited to interiors (painting washing machines, refrigerators) because they are poorly resistant to UV rays and lose their color when exposed to sunlight and stop shine.
They are widely used for painting motorcycles, mainly due to their availability and relative cheapness.
Polyester paints are suitable for exterior use (metal window frames, gates) as they are resistant to UV rays. They are also resistant to most chemicals, but unfortunately their resistance to gasoline MAY NOT be sufficient for motorcycle use.
- Polyurethane paints (the rarest) are resistant to both UV rays and gasoline, and this type of paint can certainly be recommended for use on motorcycles.
- The only problem is that in the case of the other two types of paints we have a large selection of colors, pearlescent effects, velor, antique and other textures, in the case of polyurethane paints the choice is much smaller and these coatings are not always subjectively pleasant.
Paint durability depends on the type of resin in the paint, the type of hardener and pigments. If we use pearlescent or other paint with a certain pigment, then upon contact with gasoline or other petroleum products (polishing paste), local discoloration (blackening) of the surface may occur.
Prolonged contact with gasoline, which can occur on a motorcycle if, for example, the carburetor is overfilled, is not recommended.
How to paint the engine?
I have a question here, how do cool guys paint engines and other parts of their motorcycles black?
Please name the material. you go to the autochemistry department and look for paint where the temperature is indicated. for example, 1300C I will paint this, it’s usually on the Labels .. in the most visible place
This is best done with high-temperature Hamerite.
I’m also going to paint my engine, but I have a slightly different question:
How and with what to clean cylinders and heads from oil dirt, etc. before painting?
kstati da , osobenno jesli cilindry vse rzhavyje .Chem obrabotat' ? Kak dumajete, prokatit li modifikator rzhavchiny, kotoryj sozdajot sloj toli oksida kakogoto tam toli jeschio chego. prosto na rzhavchinu krasku nanosit' , to eto ne jest' Gut
You take a spray (dirt cleaner for engine) You spray it, wait, wash it off with water, you can clean it with a spray. then degrease with acetone or solvent.
And I cleaned it with crap like Trisodium Phosphate. You take this powder, it’s sold in all household goods stores and put 100 grams in a bucket, then either a cylinder or a head in there and boil it for an hour, a white coating remains, but it’s easier to wash it off.
I took mine to sandblasting.
a TrinatrijFosfat tipo rzhavchinu ubirajet ili toko maslo i nagar ?
tut nemnogo po drugomu hotel sprosit' , mne nado kak to ot rzhavchiny izbavit'sia , chtob kachestvenno pokrasit' mozhno bylo .V peskostruj nesti neohota , tam poka togovorishsia , sto let projdiot .
Guys, the engine won’t overheat (in the paint).
well, if you apply 1cm of this paint then yes
Only some paint is burning slowly. Last spring I put Peravanna (from bologna) on my pots. Today I looked and it burned to hell. Therefore, I think I will strip the cylinders again and put in Hammerite. Fortunately, I already found the high-temperature one. They say that it is very good for rust (like an anti-corrosion agent)
Murzilka claims that cooling is improving. The main thing is that the paint must be heat-resistant. There is nothing better than sandblasting, but all sorts of chemicals are still eaten away and the quality of the paint drops, although it may not be noticeable.
Yeah, I painted it with 400 C paint. Then I spilled gasoline on the engine and the paint came off. ((Is there anything petrol resistant I wonder??
heat-resistant paint sticks normally only on heating parts, that is, on cylinders, heads and pipes; on other parts of the engine it is easily washed off with gasoline
That's what I wrote about, the paint from the cans is crap, and the gasoline doesn't hold up. and burns.
If you buy paint like COSMOS in cans (2 pieces are enough), then you won’t bake the parts at 250 degrees until you reach the goal. in current Don’t drip gasoline for 45 minutes - you WILL wash it away, and when you bake it, don’t drip either, although you can drip, but not three times (for example, with a rag). If you still wear it out, it doesn’t matter - the can is 120 rubles.
The whole thing with the engine paint sucks. It will peel off during the season anyway!!
Maybe it's better to fuck off?
What if you paint with two types of paint? Heat and petrol resistant?
What for what. Heat-resistant, gasoline-resistant - first the gasoline-resistant one will peel off from the temperature, then the heat-resistant one from the gasoline. Gasoline resistant, heat resistant - vice versa.
Or maybe for sure - it’s a no-no.
And there is another joke for baths, heat-resistant. We have it for $3. Who knows?
But I still want nickel-colored Hammerite. When heated, silumin and aluminum become cloudy. True, I only have luminous heads.
Or maybe for sure - it’s a no-no.
And there is another joke for baths, heat-resistant. We have it for $3. Who knows?
no, if it gets too hot, paint it with heat-resistant paint, everything else with gas-resistant paint
And all these options that you talked about - are they acrylic paints or not? Acrylic seems to be a strong material, but the Japanese use it to paint everything.
Where can I find something like this? I've never heard of this, like nickel.
Where can I find something like this? I've never heard of this, like nickel.
At the junction of Gorodotskaya and Broad (Levandovsky Bridge, Farb Market)
Painting a motorcycle with your own hands (step by step)
Powder paint has another disadvantage compared to solvent-based paints. In case of chips, we cannot touch up as with traditional varnish. A fragment of bare metal surface remains.
To avoid corrosion of steel (we are talking about a motorcycle frame), phosphate mixtures should be used when preparing the surface for powder painting.
- Phosphating is a method of protecting a surface from corrosion by immersing the element in a solution of iron phosphates.
- During the phosphating process, phosphorus molecules penetrate the surface of the steel, preventing the penetration of oxygen molecules.
- This is a very effective method of corrosion protection. This is a simple operation that should be performed at any decent powder coating plant.
For example, a phosphated steel element can be exposed to open air and we can be sure that it will not corrode for at least six months.
Engine tuning Izh Jupiter 5
Many Jupiter owners are not satisfied with the power of their motorcycle. In this part of the article we will look at Jupiter 5 engine tuning. In fact, the Izha engine has great potential for increasing power. First, make sure that the engine is in more or less normal condition, the cylinder fins are intact, and the bearing seats in the crankcase are not broken. First of all, tuning of this model is to eliminate the “jambs” from the poor quality of production of parts of the serial industry of past years, since at that time they tried to reduce the cost of production as much as possible. Don't forget to clean the engine before disassembling. Having disassembled the engine, we advise you to replace all the bearings with European or Japanese analogues, because after tuning the Izh motorcycle, the speed will increase and the loads will increase. If the gaps between the pistons and the cylinder do not meet the standard, you will need to bore to the nearest repair size. Then we proceed to processing the purge channels. As a rule, these are steps at the joints between the bottom of the cylinder and the surface of the crankcase.
Practical advice from a master
Since powder coating produces a thick layer, it may happen that the frame numbers become illegible (stained with paint). To do this, glue a strip of heat-resistant tape to the frame number and then cover it with paint.
Then, while heating the strip, carefully remove the black paint and press it into the numbers, and fill the entire exposed area with colorless varnish.
Stickers
The simplest and most basic way of tuning. It’s one thing when they reflect the pilot’s merits, for example, participation in events or routes traveled, as well as membership in a team. It’s a completely different matter when they try to hide scratches, dents or even rust behind stickers, then everything is used, from stickers “love is...” to “thanks to grandfather for the victory.”
Stickers that really decorate your motorcycle should be sprayed with varnish so that they do not roll off along the edges and do not suffer from the weather.
Stylish solutions for a motorcycle in 2022
Choosing the paint to customize your motorcycle is a key part of the process. Sometimes this is a preference, and other times a brand or style specific color is used.
- Are you looking for an elegant result? Then black paint should be your choice. You can't have matte or gloss black, which is usually used for Harley Davidson motorcycles. However, beware that dark colors reduce your visibility of the road, so you must be careful and ride smart.
- Another popular choice is white, which increases the bike's visibility on the road and easily absorbs the new color if you get a scratch.
- Red is the color of the brave, for inspired Ducati owners, red never goes out of style and fashion, and the palette of shades allows you to choose not only male and female options, but also stylish unisex.
While yellow may be the riskiest color with the fewest supporters, there are strong advocates for this shade, especially when paired with black. Additionally, in terms of road visibility, yellow is the most noticeable.
Blue is a great choice for a custom Yamaha or Suzuki (almost has to be if it's a GSX-R). Another winning choice would be a combination of white and blue.
Dead zone effect
If the filtration system is improperly distributed when painting and drying a car, so-called “dead zones” often arise in the chamber, where air does not circulate and is slowly renewed. This not only negatively affects the quality of work, but also poses a certain danger.
To prevent the formation of turbulence and stagnant zones, it is important to ensure that the filters are evenly distributed over the entire ceiling area and under the floor grille.
Photos before and after painting a motorcycle at home
Tell me the color for motorcycle equipment
Attached images
Thank you very much With UV, Alexey
Paints can be tinted at any large hardware store.
+1, and they color it almost free of charge and without hemorrhoids at all. You say the color code, choose a base paint, 5 minutes and you're done.
Likewise in specialized stores of companies like Tikkurila.
What do you mean by construction paints? If they are huge 30-liter barrels, then no, not them.
Z.Y. Personally, I don’t paint motorcycles; I tinted the paint using RAL 6006 to paint every little thing. I used Tikkurila Panzermaale as a basis (for metal outer surfaces), the main disadvantage is that it’s not matte, although it looks like semi-matte.
In general, if the author wants to do it with high quality and does not mind the money, then it is better to order normal matte RAL from Germany in cans or cans, since there are a lot of such offers there. But it's money.
What do you mean by construction paints? If they are huge 30-liter barrels, then no, not them.
Z.Y. Personally, I don’t paint motorcycles; I tinted the paint using RAL 6006 to paint every little thing. I used Tikkurila Panzermaale as a basis (for metal outer surfaces), the main disadvantage is that it’s not matte, although it looks like semi-matte.
In general, if the author wants to do it with high quality and does not mind the money, then it is better to order normal matte RAL from Germany in cans or cans, since there are a lot of such offers there. But it's money.
What do you mean by construction paints? If they are huge 30-liter barrels, then no, not them.
Z.Y. Personally, I don’t paint motorcycles; I tinted the paint using RAL 6006 to paint every little thing. I used Tikkurila Panzermaale as a basis (for metal outer surfaces), the main disadvantage is that it’s not matte, although it looks like semi-matte.
In general, if the author wants to do it with high quality and does not mind the money, then it is better to order normal matte RAL from Germany in cans or cans, since there are a lot of such offers there. But it's money.
Can you be more specific: what kind of thing is it, where can I get it, how did you make it? I just add a matte finish using “folk” recipes, but apparently there are already some special things. Although perhaps I just haven’t looked into stores for a long time.
I also remembered an interesting point: in our army, in the park, there were several infantry fighting vehicles painted with some kind of soviet paint, but such a terribly matte paint (very “rough” and does not shine at all, as if the car was covered with sandpaper), that while this infantry fighting vehicle can be completely washed at half a rag “remained” on your armor. This is matte, so matte.
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Friends, I looked at all the colors you write about and now I am completely confused in my head. I can't figure out what gray color to paint it with. It’s just that, for example, 7021, when you look at it on a paper sample, looks almost black! Here 7016 looks grayer, and 7009 is generally gray. So which one should I paint my M-72 made under R-71? I'm just completely confused ((
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800 rubles per kilo each with tinting. The paint is semi-matte. She held up great. Construction stores, as I understand it, don’t stock matte paint; next time I’ll experiment with folk remedies to give it a complete matte finish.
PS Don’t blame too much for the collective farm.
