Tuning IZH Planet 5 with your own hands: a second wind

What carburetor is used on the IZ Jupiter 5 model

IZH Jupiter 5 is the latest and most modified model in the series.
The first “fives” were transitional: facing from model 4 and a K-62D carburetor. Then, an updated version was put into production - IZH Jupiter 5-01, the motorcycle received an interchangeable lining with IZH Planet 5 and carburetors K-65D, K-68D and Jikov-2928CE. The latter was taken from the Czechoslovakian motorcycle Java-638, which had similar engine parameters to the Jupiter. Later, Izhmash presented a modified version of the Jupiter engine with water cooling. The so-called “dropsy” had the same engine power as a conventional engine, but the engine’s noise level and fuel consumption decreased. A new K-68D carburetor was also installed on it. Its feature was the new cylindrical shape and material of the throttle valve (like Jikov), which reduced its wear. Idle speed has become more stable.

Experience with IZ

my experience with Izh Planet 5 - you fix it for a week, ride for two days (I got it already dead)

I'll tell anyone who's interested. The 1992 motorcycle is single, they installed a cradle from an old motorcycle, first my grandfather rode it, then my uncle killed it, now I’m finishing it. It stood from 2005 to 2022. When I dug it up, it was a typical boy’s spendthrift, which drove, but was not serviced. I took it apart down to the bolt, let’s just say there is no such unit that I wouldn’t take apart and make! I have more than 10 thousand on the speedak, I have already driven 11) The engine is dead, but it was enough to cripple my leg and start. I tinkered with it all summer, because before that I had nothing to do with technology at all! had a bike at most, then studied it, and eventually made it, although not perfectly. The contact ignition failed once, the capacitor filled up, began to flood, began to stall and would not start. Among the features: 3rd gear slipped, but not 2nd, since 2nd had already been cured by someone. I went through the box twice and adjusted it, the problem disappeared. In general, he had many such “peculiarities”)) and many more adventures.

what was done:

- the cylinder is bored out and everything is new (I’m very glad that the shitty rings ate up the entire liner and provided a gap of two tens instead of the bored 0.05, otherwise an equally shitty piston would have simply smeared all over it) - all speeds in the box work perfectly - the engine runs smoothly , smoothly, starts the first time (and doesn’t even leak from the box, or anywhere at all) - 90 (nothing was modified, not even a 68 carb) - all sorts of little things for completeness - changed the fork stays (these have two mounting options, but I I like it better with one, as it was) -steering bearings -rebuilt front and rear shock absorbers -replaced the black half-rotten front fender with chrome and a lot more to bring it to the point where it sat down and went anywhere comfortably

I am planning a complete 2.0 rebuild of the engine, I will make the landings hard using a clamp, and in general I will put everything on a clamp so that I can simply assemble it and not have to mess with this engine anymore. Well, I can’t figure out the wiring, either the battery is dead, or it’s consuming energy somewhere.

In the summer I stupidly rode it, gained experience working with equipment (I repaired this miracle every day), went to the river, did a lot of enduring through the forests, just drove around the village, or to the store. I drive without a license and without documents, I almost got caught once, eh, at the end of summer!

In general, I could easily make it new (in terms of the engine and chassis) and make my nameplate 120, but I don’t have the machines to restore the bearing fits, sharpen the cylinders, and all that, I don’t have money, in general, even for spare parts, not something for a drill and cutters.

I'm not going to paint it, let it be as it is!

The first 2 are November photos from the last trip this season! the last one in the summer. I know that the silencer pipe is screwed on incorrectly

Improved ride quality

The icing on the cake, and in our case the final touch of tuning, is the improvement in driving performance.
Some of the tuners approached this issue earlier when they sawed the frame of their motorcycle or raised the tail of a future crossover. For the rest, first of all, you should get rid of your original tires. Among its advantages, only wear resistance can be noted, for which you pay with your safety. It is both universal and useless. The lugs are practically useless; if they get into a mess, under normal conditions on the highway it is noisy, but relatively holds the road, turning into a killer on a wet highway. Therefore, without hesitation, we throw it away and purchase road, cross or all-purpose tires, based on your requirements. The second point is the suspension. If everything is generally clear with the rear shock absorbers, they are extremely reliable and, in addition, have stiffness settings, then the front fork does not leak only for those who have chosen a different brand. There are two ways to get out of this situation. The first is to add thicker oil. The second is to carry out a complete overhaul of the feathers and replace all parts. Both options do not last long, so the most demanding owners simply change the fork to an imported one, while the rest endure all the shortcomings of their iron horse.

Izh Cross

Greetings to all connoisseurs of motocross motorcycles! The “All About Moto” website, and in particular its sections related to motorcycle mechanics, will enlighten you about the tuning that creates enduro bikes.

Today we will talk about Izh Cross. After reading this article, you will finally understand what this “nickname” of the iron horse is associated with.

I would like to point out right off the bat that there are no serial bikes with such an official name and never have existed. For some motorcycle enthusiasts, this term serves as another name for the legendary Izh Planet Sport. Others carry out sports tuning of a bike from the Izhevsk Motor Plant, which is later called Izh Pod Cross or Izh Planet Cross. Let us also note that Jupiters are also amenable to such modernization in domestic practice. All types of light and medium bikes are suitable for amateur cross-country reformation. And since the above-mentioned Russian motorcycles are among the most powerful in these classes, they are often taken as a base for further modernization and tuning.

Izh Cross, which can be bought today in many cities and villages (since there are many mechanical enthusiasts in our homeland). In this case, you will not have to study a sea of ​​information regarding the features of the structural alteration of the iron horse. However, such a decision will slightly deplete your family budget.

Not tuning, but restoration

However, modernization is not the only way for owners of the popular model. After all, the age of many motorcycles has already exceeded two decades, which means that they can already be classified as rare. Restoring IZ Jupiter-5, restoring it and bringing it to its original state is also quite justified.

A legendary motorcycle that looks like it just rolled off the assembly line yesterday will attract no less attention than the tuned version. It’s just that how to properly restore equipment by performing qualified repairs often turns out to be much more difficult than remodeling it to your taste.

Previous entry Evolution of the Minsk 125 motorcycle Next entry Modern tuning of Voskhod 3m

What does the price depend on?

The most important influence on the cost of a motorcycle is the year of manufacture and mileage. The most expensive option will be the one made in 2006-2008. or the older Izh "Planet-5", never used by the previous owner.

In addition, the price may be affected by:

1. Presence/absence of PTS. Often people sell outdated equipment without documents, then it costs less.
2. Availability of trunk . Some Izh Planet-5 models came with a removable cradle. The ability to use it usually makes the product more expensive.
3. Tuning. Many craftsmen tried to give the working motorcycle a more impressive look, modifying it or redesigning it.

Despite the fact that the Izh “Planet-5” was produced in several configurations and even modifications, this factor does not have a special impact on the price. This is due to the fact that all models are similar to each other and differ only slightly in appearance.

Do-it-yourself engine tuning for IZH Planet 5

Having figured out what the tuning of the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle will look like, the rider may find the power insufficient. So it is, because the factory ones are 20 - 25 hp. The original engine is enough for tight streets, but on the highway the engine stops the speedometer at 120, beyond which it is quite difficult to get out. That is why, the next step is to tune your engine. The first step is to conduct a complete audit of the main elements that affect power: ignition, air filter, carburetor, exhaust. 50% of success lies in the correct setup and maintenance of these “capricious” motor components. If everything is in order, but there is still not enough power, then there are two further options:

• The first is modification of existing units;
• The second is a comprehensive tuning of the IZH Planet 5 engine with replacement of parts.

The first option is suitable for those who are trying to maintain the factory condition of their bike. Then, to drive a little faster, you can clean the exhaust, which inevitably becomes clogged with oil residue. The next step may be to install higher flow jets on the carburetor. At the same time, we inspect the filter element; it should fully cope with its task; monitor the oil level. The last item will be replacing the spark plugs and fine-tuning the ignition. With the right approach, you can get the most out of your engine. The maximum speed will not increase, but the engine response will definitely improve. Some models have a “traction” drive sprocket with a large number of teeth; if you replace it with a “high-speed” one, you can add at least 10 km/h to the maximum speed. Riders who are primarily concerned about the sense of speed should prepare to study a lot of specialized literature, because in order to noticeably improve the engine's power, its main components will have to be replaced. It’s worth starting with an audit of the cylinder-piston group. It is best to immediately replace the crankshaft with bearings, connecting rod and piston with rings with analogues from Japanese models. New spare parts will be stronger and lighter than the old IL Planet 5 tuning will significantly improve the engine, allow it to spin up more easily and preserve its service life. Next we replace the intake system, this is a new, more efficient carburetor. Behind it is installed a low-resistance filter and another important intake element - a reed valve. The exhaust should also be replaced. Only part of the knee will remain from the old spare parts, and a special resonator will be welded behind it (diagrams with dimensions can be found on the Internet).

Due to the characteristics of 2T engines, the exhaust cannot be direct-flow; it must provide a reverse impulse, which will prevent the air-fuel mixture from splashing out of the combustion chamber. After the resonator, a muffler is installed, which in general may be absent if you prefer a loud roar of the engine. Last but not least is the ignition system. It is better to immediately replace it with an electronic one, because the contact one almost always gets lost and has to be adjusted very often. The electronic system eliminates the need for regular inspection of the mechanism and allows you to maintain the power and torque curve at any speed.

This story began a long time ago, I don’t remember exactly when, then, when I saw my father’s motorcycle at the hunting base, I wanted a motorcycle for myself, but then I was still small and could hardly pull it away from the wall of the garage, but time passed and as I grew up I remembered that a motorcycle that I saw as a child. And so it turned out that that winter I came to this base again, going into the garage I saw a motorcycle that had been standing against the wall all this time, it was an old Planet 5. My father allowed me to take this “junk,” as he put it. And my father was right, the motorcycle was completely rotten, there was no carburetor, no battery, the wheels were stripped, the seat was torn; it was completely disassembled, but I still decided to pick it up. It took me a long time to assemble it, most likely due to the fact that my knowledge of the technology was only theoretical, but still, after two weeks, the time came to start the power unit. And so the theory tells me: “All you have to do is pull the kick starter, and the roar of the engine will be heard,” but theory and practice rarely intersect, and this case was no exception, after fiddling with it for a couple more hours, it started up, most of all I at that moment I was afraid to hear a ringing or knocking. And my fears came true. The engine rang and knocked. And I was faced with a choice to continue restoration or throw this trash in a landfill. I chose the first option.

An autopsy showed that the piston had 2 of 3 rings with gaps in the locks of 4-5mm, a broken pin, play in the connecting rod, scratches on the liner, play in the crankshaft bearings. Major repairs were required, or better yet, major repairs. A crankshaft, cylinder, piston, rings, bearings, seals were purchased. With the help of my stepfather, all this was put into place in two evenings. And now it’s time to start it again, now I won’t be so naive, but there was no spark, the battery was dead. There was no time to exercise because we had to get ready for Rostov-on-Don. When I returned, the first thing I did was go to the motorcycle and on the third try it finally started. Now there was a break-in, regretting that the engine did not go more than 60 km/h. This is how I spent the rest of the Karelian summer.

Cat Mars is my faithful friend and assistant, who sat with me in the garage all the time and watched the construction of the motorcycle.

In the fall, I came across an article by comrade Zloy. True, before that there were thoughts about reworking the enduro of my planet, but the brainchild of the Evil One inspired me to decide on this rework.

(Evil's motorcycle)

Already in late autumn I started working on my endurik. I agreed with the welder who welded the frame for me, found a fork from a CZ-516 motocross bike, and slowly started working on the motorcycle in my free time. I decided to make: BSZ, since the cams got pretty bad for me over the summer, make a voltage stabilizer voltage regulator like the VAZ one, install a digital tachometer, and a driving computer.

By the beginning of the season, I had not made a new seat and a new exhaust system, so as not to be left without a motorcycle for a month, I decided to install standard ones.

I decided to cut off the rear sprocket housing for a number of reasons. Here's what came out of it:

Two days after the barbaric operation on the drum, during sudden braking it was torn to hell.

By August, I was finally fed up with the standard muffler that caught rocks. And I decided to make a new exhaust system suitable for enduro needs.

Due to the size of the resonator for Planet 5

It is difficult to place it in the frame, it could have been done like on the first IZH K-16

Or like on CZ 513

I decided that the second option was more acceptable, since the cigar was difficult to position in the frame. I started with a mock-up of the future resonator. Having fitted it to the frame, it becomes clear that it will interfere with the tank.

I made a resonator in metal.

Now you can start mocking the tank. But often cutting out a tank is not a problem, the problem is finding a welder who will work on the tank, but fortunately I know a welder who welds tanks. I cut the tank by pushing sand into it. But for welding, sand is no longer an option; you need to evaporate the tank. Due to the impossibility of evaporating the tank by inserting a hose from a car muffler into it, we had to look for alternative options. And the idea immediately came to mind to pass running hot water through the tank, which would heat the tank and hot steam. When the hour arrived, there was no smell of gasoline in the tank, but just in case, I washed it with hot water and fairy. The welder welded the tank without any problems. Just in case, I coated the seam on the tank with epoxy resin, as I had already done with the resonator and exhaust pipe.

The actual technical characteristics of this miracle: Wheelbase: 1400mm Height: 1400mm Front suspension travel: 275mm Rear suspension travel: 100mm Ground clearance: 310mm Weight: 141kg

There were no special problems with it for two years, with the exception of the constantly clogged fuel filter, and the front fender that just as often broke. PS This bike will forever have a place in my heart and in my garage.

Cafe Racer

The style largely repeats the previous one, because it consists of giving the motorcycle an appearance similar to the British models of the 60-70s. A distinctive feature of such motorcycles is the special shape of the seat and tail. For our modification model, we will have to work on the rear part and replace the tank with a more streamlined one. You will also have to change a number of details in general, these are:

• round mirrors;
• one round device instead of a panel;
• monochrome, dim color of the main elements;
• no stickers;
• an abundance of chrome parts (switch feet, turn signals, possibly fenders).

Key features of our spare parts for IZH Planet 5/4/3

The IZH Planet spare parts presented on the website are supplied by us directly from the manufacturers. This guarantees them the following advantages:

• high quality workmanship - optimal materials, decent characteristics;
• ideal compatibility with specific models of domestic motorcycles;
• no extra extra charges - we offer ignition and clutch elements, engines and carburetors, wiring and other parts at the best price.

Spare parts for IZH Planet 5/4/3 can boast a long service life, which means they will serve you for many years, providing comfort and safety while driving.

Arcs and cells

I consider bars and cages to be the most effective means of protecting a motorcycle. For a second, the bars, depending on the design, save not only the motorcycle, but also the driver’s legs. Protective covers or sliders will not allow the rider to remove his feet from under a fallen motorcycle.

Of course, most of the arches are quite bulky, which is why they are not favored by supporters of high-speed models and motorcycles with a lot of plastic. Arcs are the choice of road workers or choppers. Moreover, there is room for installing additional options, such as running boards, for example. Who doesn’t want to stretch out their numb legs on a long journey?

Cells are more universal in their purpose. The fact is that the arches load the front part of the motorcycle and sometimes look awkward. Cages are gaining popularity among urban motorcycles as a means of additional protection and as a way to tune your favorite machine. The cage can be installed on different classes of motorcycles, except that they will look ridiculous on choppers. The bright color of the cage gives it an original look; some even manage to combine them with plastic.

Due to their design, both the arcs and the cells distribute the impact energy over their entire area and, of course, this is reusable protection. Recently, it has become important to supplement cells with sliders. An interesting solution, because the cage itself is quite expensive, and repainting it after a fall will not be easy, but replacing the slider on it is welcome.

Such protective equipment is not difficult to purchase, and you can install it yourself. It is logical that both the choice of equipment for the class of motorcycle and the choice of protection for the motorcycle itself should be correlated with your travel plans. Sliders will be completely out of place on heavy choppers or road bikes; at most, place them on the steering wheel or wheel axle, but the cages on them will be just as funny. Just imagine some V-Twin, say my pink dream - Boulevard, chained in a cage? Laughter and nothing more, Michio Suzuki (founder) would throw a wrench at someone who would do that. It would be no less funny to install roll bars on a sportbike. Firstly, you still need to try, and secondly, it will have a catastrophic effect on the balance and controllability of the motorcycle.

Therefore, when choosing protection for your motorcycle, focus not only on the price, but also on the ease of installation/disassembly, how the new product will fit into the system of your motorcycle and how much it will affect handling.

Appearance of Planet 4

The external design of the “new” Planet is approximately the same as that of Jupiter 4, this is known to all Soviet motorcyclists. That is, the wheels, guards, steering wheel, tank, suspension and brakes are the same for these motorcycles, even on the Izh Planet 5 tuning everything is approximately the same.

Planet 4 is equipped with exactly the same two-stroke single-cylinder engine as the IZH Planet 3 02. But the 4th Planet has 12-volt electrical equipment, a 6MTS-9 battery, more advanced devices: FG137V headlight and A12 lamp - 45 + 40 W , as well as direction indicators type 16.3726 with 25-watt lamps, and of course, a 100-watt alternator.

Thanks to these lamps, the road lighting has become better and driving in traffic has become a little safer.

The electrical equipment of Planet 4 and Jupiter 4 is almost the same, the only difference is that the Planet’s engine is single-cylinder, while Jupiter’s is 2-cylinder. IZH Planet 4 is equipped with an ignition switch (14.3704), as on cars of that time, a brake light switch for hand and foot brakes, light switches, a steering column lock, and a steering column lock.

Under the headlight there are control devices assembled into a block, the same for Jupiter 4. The safety of the driver and passenger is ensured with the help of arches and folding footrests. As for the wheels and guards, they are mostly painted with enamel paint, the same color as the motorcycle, but there are some bikes in which the wheels and guards are chrome-plated.

It will also be interesting: Features of the all-wheel drive Ural motorcycle: an off-road “thunderstorm”

Planet 4 was produced both in a single version and with the VMZ-9.202 cradle, which is also installed on Jupiters. In general, IZH Planet 4 motorcycles were appreciated by Soviet motorcyclists, because these motorcycles can easily be called workhorses, like Java motorcycles, and they are inexpensive to maintain, and this has always been an advantage.

Specifications

The middle class of the IZH Planet 2 model is confirmed by both the engine characteristics and the overall dimensions of the bike, which are:

• Length - 213.0 cm;
• Width - 78.0 cm;
• Height - 102.5 cm;
• Base - 143.0 cm;
• Ground clearance - 13.5 cm.

The dry weight of the motorcycle is 155 kilograms, and the wheel size is 3.25-19.

Design features

At one time, IZH Planet 2 had very modern parameters.

The “heart” of the motorcycle was a two-stroke single-cylinder 346 cc air-cooled engine, the power of which reached 15 horsepower (4.2-4.6 thousand rpm).

This unit runs on a fuel mixture of gasoline and oil, which comes by gravity from an 18-liter tank.

The brake system is drum. The gearbox is a two-way, four-speed design that transmits rotation to the rear wheel via a chain.

The softness of movement is ensured by the original shock absorption system:

• The front fork is telescopic with a spring-hydraulic shock absorber;
• The rear fork is pendulum with a hydraulic shock absorber.

As already mentioned, the Planet 2 frame is an all-metal tubular structure.

The deep fenders of the motorcycle are also made of metal, since plastic was practically not used then.

Detailed information about the IZH Planet 2 power unit can be found in the following table.

Ignition, clutch, wiring, carburetor, engine of the IZH Planet motorcycle

Our range of products for repairing the IZH Planet motorcycle includes the following spare parts and components:

• ignition and clutch elements;
• wiring, carburetor, engine;
• piston, generator, crankshaft, etc.

The products are intended not only for professional craftsmen, but also for ordinary owners. Our spare parts for IZH 5/4/3 will help you save on vehicle maintenance and fix the problem yourself by replacing the failed part.

Correction of motorcycle appearance

Changing your appearance can happen in different ways. Among the most common:

• Fairing installation.
• Replacing the fuel tank.
• Seat modification.
• Motorcycle painting.

Fairing installation. This is the first thing that many lovers of modifying the appearance of motorcycles undertake. Although it is possible to cope with such a task, it should be recognized that the development of such components is a complex task that requires specific skills. The enterprises employ entire groups of specialists engaged in the design of fairings.

A person who does not have specific skills, despite all his talents, will most likely receive a result of dubious quality. The surface of the fairing will be uneven, which is clearly visible in the 5 photos posted online illustrating Jupiter tuning. The aerodynamics of the motorcycle may not improve, but worsen. Take all this into account before you decide to start making and installing a fairing.

Replacing the fuel tank is a completely justified decision. But you shouldn’t try to make a complex part yourself. This is not an easy task even for enterprises with special technological equipment. It’s smarter and easier to choose a ready-made fuel tank from some other motorcycle model.

Seat modification. You can try to make a change to the standard structure by upholstering it with a new material like leather or a good substitute, and installing a new filler. But the original seat has a significant mass. To reduce the weight of the motorcycle, it makes sense, as in the case of the fuel tank, to select a part from other equipment.

Painting IZ Jupiter-5 is a good thing. Here you can let your imagination run wild. But the best results can be achieved if you know the laws of color combinations or consult with a professional designer. Otherwise, instead of a stylish combination of contrasting colors, you can end up with an eye-catching color scheme.

If you are interested in long-lasting paintwork, first apply a layer of high-quality primer and refuse to use nitro paint, preferring alkyd or polyurethane enamels.

Improved technical characteristics

• Engine

The Planet-5 engine is convenient for processing. Of course, owners always want to increase power. To do this, it is worth repressing the crankshaft, replacing the original bearings with bearings from the Java secondary shaft.

When disassembling, it is worth silvering the upper ring and the lower separator. After tuning the engine, its service life is reduced. So if you use the motorcycle for normal speed riding, you should not change anything in the engine, as this will greatly reduce the life of the tires

and rear clutch.

Cylinder

To increase the volume of the cylinder, cut off its upper part and bore the liner to 76 mm. After pumping the engine, the Planet can accelerate to 160 km/h.

Clutch

The factory clutch of the IZH Planet-5 copes well with normal loads. If you drive a lot and drive aggressively, you should think about replacing the clutch. Under increased load, the disks quickly fail, so it is worth replacing one of them with a thicker metal one. This will lead to a stronger compression of the springs, in which there will be no slipping and the clutch will be more difficult to squeeze.

Supercharging

Advanced mechanics can change the boost system. When tuning the IZH Planet motorcycle, do not forget to replace the air filter with a foreign one. High-quality air purification will increase the power of your “iron horse” and prevent the engine from overheating.

Piston

Lubricating the piston will increase friction between the side wall and the cylinder bore.

Thus, after spending some time and money on tuning the IZH Planet-5 motorcycle, you will get an excellent “iron friend”. "Planet" initially has good technical characteristics - excellent traction, high power, resistance to any type of road.

Add to this an affordable price, ease of maintenance and availability of the necessary parts, plus your skills and imagination - and you will get a motorcycle that will serve you faithfully in Russian off-road conditions for many years.

In addition to its decent appearance, Izh Planet 5 has excellent technical characteristics. The motorcycle is equipped with a single-cylinder two-stroke engine with a power of 22 hp. With. The fuel consumption and processing system requires a modest 5 liters. gasoline with stable driving at a speed of 90 km/h. In addition, this model of domestic motorcycle was one of the first to receive an air cooling system, which increases traction at low speeds.

The maximum speed of the motorcycle is 120 km/h. The unit performs well when driving off-road and does not require large expenses for maintenance. All this is the reason for the wild popularity of Izh Planet 5 from 1987 to the present day. After all, not every one of us can buy an expensive Harley Davidson. But many people are capable of paying 5–6 thousand rubles for a domestic motorcycle. In addition, the Izhevsk Machine Plant model is much easier to tune with your own hands, which cannot be said about the expensive American and Japanese “monsters”.

Technical characteristics of IZH Planet 4

General characteristics:

• dry weight - 168 kg, with cradle - 263 kg;
• maximum speed - 120 km/h, with a cradle - 80 km/h;
• Fuel consumption - 6.6 l/100 km, with a cradle - 7.2 l/100 km.

Dimensions:

• length - 2170 mm, with cradle - 2200 mm;
• width - 810 mm, with cradle - 1700 mm;
• height - 1170 mm, with cradle - 1300 mm;
• wheelbase—1460 mm.

Motor:

• single-cylinder, two-stroke;
• volume - 346 cubic meters;
• power - 20 horsepower/15 kW at 4600-6000 rpm;
• carburetor K62I;
• contact-oil air cleaner;
• fuel - 76 gasoline;

Transmission:

• multi-disc clutch located in an oil bath;
• Gearbox - four-speed;

At one time, Planet 4 went with a bang and now quite a few good motorcycles have survived, there are craftsmen who turn these devices into truly a miracle of technology: they tune the engine as it should, change spare parts for newer and more beautiful ones, especially the steering wheel can be changed, you will get an excellent chopper , in general, when tuning Planet 4 there are no limits to the imagination; if you have the hands and talent, then you can come up with a lot of interesting things from the old Planet 4.

And here is a video about how beautiful IZ Planet 4 can look:

Do-It-Yourself Arcs - Very Skillful Hands

Good evening!!! Has anyone tried to make arcs with their own hands? I’ve been thinking about this all day. If anyone has experience in this matter, please share. Thank you.

It’s better to buy NORMAL arcs, unless of course you are a welding and pipe bending machine master... and a lot of 3D drawing

I think that if you have access to hardware and want to get confused, then it is best to look for the owner of the TA, who will let you take the dimensions of the arches that he has. If you do not take into account all the nuances, then the arcs will simply perform their function poorly, which will reduce their feasibility to 0. In general, if it comes to real action, write about the results.

I know a man who made arches with his own hands - and did it well. True, not on TA, but I think they will not be inferior in complexity. He made several templates with corners + pipe bender + welding. Everything worked out

I’m confused. I think about this issue all the time. By profession, I’m a PM and EMTP engineer, my hands are not strong enough. I’ll try. Maybe it will work out. I want to make templates from plastic, and then on metal. all the possibilities are there.

Added (01.12.2009, 13:17)———————————————If anyone can, post detailed photos of your arcs.

Amajor, on the forum ,, bells and whistles ,, - ,, arcs ,, looked ???

There is no left side. If anyone can, take a photo

All that remains is to make a pipe bender and make the arcs by the season, a semi-automatic machine has already been purchased)

Quote (Amajor)

200?'200px':"+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px');>If anyone can, post detailed photos of your arcs.

The arcs are not symmetrical, see last photo. Take this into account when making.

Added (09.12.2009, 12:06)———————————————

Paper - instructions for the arches. It can be useful.

transalp-club.ru

Installation of bearings and seals

We install a retaining ring in the left half of the crankcase.

Depending on the model of the main oil seal, we install a spacer sleeve in the mounting hole of the main bearing, or, if the oil seal was initially wide (there are some), we heat the crankcase and, on the inside of the crankcase, place the oil seal until it stops against the retaining ring.

My engine had a regular narrow oil seal, so I put in a bushing.

Using a mandrel, install the main oil seal into the preheated crankcase.

Quickly, before the crankcase cools down, place the oil guide washer on the oil seal. The oil guide washer has a saucer-shaped profile. We place it on the oil seal so that the concave side faces us, and the curved side faces the clutch basket.

While the crankcase has not cooled down, we press the outer race of the main bearing into it using a mandrel.

If you are going to replace the main bearings with new ones, don’t be lazy: find a sheet of iron 7-8 mm thick, cut a wedge in it for the connecting rod, pass the sheet of iron between the cheeks of the crankshaft and use a mandrel to drive the main bearing onto the axle.

This way you will protect yourself from damage to the crankshaft. The main bearing has a very high interference and fits into the axle with a very large force. It is not uncommon for people to simply knock out the axle (the axle on the planetary crankshaft is pressed into the cheek) inside the crankshaft, but they were never able to put the bearing on.

Native made in USSR 2505 KM

Frame from scratch

The frame chosen for the project was quite interesting. Visually complete stock. I'm sorry, there is no photo of the frame in its original form...

Frame from the Sh-53 motorcycle (motorcycle for road racing based on the planet). I got the frame with a pendulum

I think the pendulum should be given special attention

The pendulum is on two roller bearings, 50 mm longer than the standard one. And no collective farm! There are no “bunch of washers”, welding seams a la “Uncle Vasya’s neighbor welded for a bottle.” Everything is done on bushings, the extension is done quite competently, the pendulum is reinforced with additional gussets. It is likely that the pendulum is factory-made. It's very neatly executed. The rear engine is mounted on the same axis as the pendulum. 3 mm thick plates with holes (and not on the frame and with slots, as in the factory version. How to install the engine assembled with the gearbox, you ask? But more on that later...)

Well, the rest is completely stock.

The overcooking of the frame was planned to be global, so the frame was cut and welded on a slipway so that there would be no distortion and violation of the basic geometry. It was immediately decided to switch to mono suspension. For these purposes, the pendulum was welded, a thrust frame and a mount for the lower end of the shock absorber were welded. The front end of the shock absorber is mounted in the lower part of the upper frame tube. The rear part of the frame has been shortened and reconfigured; glove compartments are not in the plans. Let me make a reservation right away: the angle of the seat tubes has not been changed. No raised tail!

All unnecessary fastenings were removed from the frame (under the side trailer, fastening the central step, rear fender, fastening the pump and the second ignition coil, etc.). All factory seams, upon closer inspection, turned out to be of good quality, but without proper processing, which I did without thinking. Double-seam welding of the frame, thorough cleaning...

I cook and clean it myself. After all, I have my own blacksmith shop and a decent set of professional tools and required professional skills. Yeah, I'm a blacksmith. The most real one. I'll tell you separately sometime)))

I clean the frame with a grinder (yes, you know, there is a compressor with a capacity of 520 l/min, there is a sandblaster, but I still can’t finish the working part with ceramic nozzles. Eh, laziness... I’ll have to warm up with a grinder and a drill).

The frame wasn't cleaned up a bit today, but that's not the point. The general concept is visible.

Soon I’ll tell you “how to assemble a monoshock absorber with a double spring.” Well, this is my version of course.

Good luck to all!

Two carburetors on IZ Jupiter

Among all the various modifications for the two-cylinder Izh, the installation of two carburetors on the motorcycle engine stands out. One for each cylinder. This is done in hopes of increasing engine power by improving the filling of each cylinder. The power does increase, but at most by a couple of horses.

Therefore, on most two-stroke vehicles there is an intake resonator between the carburetor and the filter. It is a plastic box into which part of the mixture is spat out. This device is not available on Jupiters, because there is no particular need for it due to the length of the “pants” and the peculiarities of the two-cylinder engine. While one cylinder is making its stroke, the second one sucks in the mixture from the carburetor plus the part that was reflected from the skirt of the first piston.

In addition, installing a reed valve will improve cylinder filling at low and medium speeds, and fuel consumption will be slightly reduced. The Jupiter cylinder is approximately equal to the volume of 175 cm3, so the reed valves can be supplied from sunrise 3m-01 or made from a turner according to a sample. Carburetors can also be taken from Voskhod (K-62V, K-65V) or from Java 638.

In addition to installing the valves, the pistons will also need to be modified. A hole must be made on the piston skirt on the inlet side, as shown in the figure. This is necessary in order to reduce the inlet resistance necessary for the operation of the petals.

To operate two carburetors, you will need a tap with a double and a common throttle handle for both cables. These parts can be taken from the Urals or picked up from other motorcycle models.

After installing all the parts, it is necessary to configure and synchronize the carburetors. Otherwise, overheating and wear of one of the cylinders, as well as severe vibration, may occur.

Adjusting the carburetor of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle

Setting up Peker carburetors on the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle is carried out as follows. First, we check the tightness and integrity of the air filter. Then we check the serviceability of the ignition. After this, we proceed to adjustment, the algorithm is as follows:

remove the carburetor from the engine. Using measuring probes and an adjusting screw on the carburetor cover, set the distance between the lower edge of the mixing chamber and the throttle valve to approximately 1.5-2 mm. We tighten the mixture quality adjusting screw (18) completely and turn it back 1 turn; unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the carburetor and remove the float chamber cover. Turn the carburetor over so that the floats drop and close the fuel channel. We measure the distance from the edge of the carburetor connector to the middle of the float (press mold line). It should be 13 +1.5/-1.5 mm (see figure). If the distance does not correspond to the norm, we achieve the required length by bending the float tongue in one direction or another;

install the carburetor in place. Start the motorcycle and warm up the engine for 5-7 minutes. To make things go faster, use a fuel enricher (corrector). Using the mixture quantity screw at the top of the carburetor, set the minimum stable engine speed. By unscrewing the mixture quality screw (gradually by 1/2, 1/4 turn), we look for the moment to reduce the crankshaft speed (at first the speed will increase and then decrease). By screwing in the mixture quantity screw again, we achieve a reduction in the crankshaft speed, and using the quality screw we again find the optimal position. These steps must be repeated until the minimum stable crankshaft speed is found. Correct adjustment should also be checked by sharply turning the throttle lever. When the engine stalls when opened sharply and picks up speed poorly (dips), the mixture needs to be enriched by slightly tightening the quality screw. If, on the contrary, the engine stalls when the gas is released, the quality screw needs to be unscrewed a little. After this, use the quantity screw to set the minimum engine speed

Attention! The adjustment screws must be turned slowly and gradually by 1/2, 1/4 turns. After each operation, we wait for the engine to “adapt” to the new settings; Later, the correct adjustment can be checked by the color of the central electrode of the spark plug

Before this, you should ride a motorcycle for 10-15 kilometers on the highway. The normal mixture is a brick-colored electrode. Carbon deposits on the spark plug indicate that the mixture is too rich. While a too whitish color indicates its excessive impoverishment; When operating a motorcycle in different meteorological conditions, the mixture composition is changed by moving the position of the throttle metering needle. So, at a temperature of +30 ºС, the needle must be lowered by one division, thereby depleting the mixture. At -15 ºС the needle should be raised 1-2 notches.

A few words about setting up the Jikov-2928CE carburetor. The idle speed setting here is similar to that of the K-65. The only differences are in the location of the adjusting screws. In Jikov they are conveniently located on the side of the carburetor (the one that is screwed in at an angle is responsible for the height of the throttle valve).

The fuel level in the float chamber should be 9 ± 1 mm. Due to the design features of this carburetor, adjusting the composition of the fuel mixture to reduce the dip when opening the gas sharply is done by moving the throttle needle up (on the K-65 in this case, we turn the quality screw).

Adjustment video

To understand the basics and nuances of adjusting the carburetor of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle, we recommend watching an interesting video. The author tells in detail how to adjust the K68 carburetor on the IZH Jupiter 4 motorcycle. He shows and talks about all the nuances and features.

How I decided to remove paint

It was necessary to have some kind of more or less durable grinder with an attachment made of Scotch Brite of suitable grain size, with Velcro on a cup with a rubber base. The surface would immediately be obtained without unnecessary scratches (although traces of metal molding and roughly cleaned welds previously hidden under paint would be visible).

Here, for example, are traces of metal molding:

Plus, the welds would have to be cleaned with a brush made of thin steel wires - also an angle grinder or a light high-speed reversible drill with such an attachment.

But instead of a so-so drill (and this is my drill in the photo and screws screws) with the money I had, I bought a semi-professional Skil grinder with a flexible shaft for 1390 rubles (790 rubles in the configuration without a flexible shaft; the flexible shaft resembles a speedometer cable in braid), I didn’t really use a single attachment from it. I asked him to sharpen an M6 bolt for a 3.2 mm collet, sawed it at the end and put small strips of sandpaper there.

This device made it possible to remove paint from the wheel rim without disassembling the wheel (without separating the rim and the wheel hub).

By the way, never clamp Chinese 3.0 mm bits with such a collet - they will turn and you will have to buy a whole set of collets (they are for different drills) in a radio parts store, which costs 200 rubles. Probably, the collet is 3.00 mm and not 3.20 mm and you need to clamp such attachments.

Included with the grinder was a pencil-shaped attachment made of diamond-coated steel. She was able to trim welds and draw on glass jars (the part with the largest diameter). These are sold in separate sets, but it’s still a shame to trim the metal with them.

You have to add machine oil to the flexible shaft of the grinder - in the place where it connects to the grinder, it then leaks out and ends up everywhere - on the floor, mask, face and clothes. It is better not to set the speed above positions 3, 4 or 5 during different operations set by the speed controller (there are 6 positions in total), since the motor in it starts to heat up too quickly at high speeds, the smell of insulation appears and you feel sorry for the sander.

Almost all the paint and rust was removed from the motorcycle with this sander. A grinder in addition to a grinder like this would be much faster, perhaps two or three days for all the parts including the frame. Some parts were cleaned by hand. It’s more pleasant to work by hand; there’s no rush like with a power tool. I would have done exactly this without a sander.

The best thing is a durable air compressor with sufficient liters per minute and air pressure capacity, and a few tools to go with it (a durable straight sander with easily replaceable bearings and a small angle sander with a rubber backing for Velcro). The rotation of the attachments in such tools simply stops and they do not get knocked out of your hands like a power tool - which often has a kilowatt of power to withstand possible overheating from prolonged use.