Pros and cons of a gel battery for a car


Instructions: checking, changing engine oil and adjusting track

For high-quality and uninterrupted operation of the Irbis Dingo snowmobile, it should be periodically serviced.

Checking the engine oil and replacing it

At the Irbis Dingo plant, the snowmobile is filled with oil specifically suitable for 10W39SF gasoline units. Before you start using your snowmobile, you will need to measure the oil.

Clutch oil should be used, but standard 4-stroke oil is also suitable. Oil viscosity is selected taking into account the climate in accordance with a specific scheme

Daniila Rukin

Snowmobile specialist "Buran". I go fishing in my free time.

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Do not pour used oil into waste containers, or pour it onto the ground or wastewater.

Checking the oil level: You need to check the level of this fluid before any trip. For this it is recommended:

  • park the snowmobile so that it stands level, not in an inclined position;
  • warm up the power unit;
  • to ensure the comfort of monitoring the oil level, there is an inspection window on the right side of the engine in the direction of travel;
  • the oil level should be located between the maximum “H” and minimum “L” marks as in the figure above;
  • If necessary, you can add oil to the crankcase.

It is important not to overfill higher than the top mark. Using a motor with insufficient oil will cause damage.

Changing engine oil: to ensure quick and complete drainage of old oil, you must:

  • Place the snowmobile on a flat surface and warm up the engine;
  • to drain the oil, you will need to unscrew the dipstick (1) and the passage plug (2), as in the figure;
  • Next, you should wait until the oil drains completely and tighten the passage plug from the crankcase;
  • pour 1 liter of oil of a suitable type into the engine crankcase, then turn it on and let it idle for about three minutes;
  • two minutes after the power unit stops operating, you need to see that the oil level is fixed at the top of the control window.

If desired, you can add oil to the upper limit of the dipstick. It is important to make sure that the oil does not leak.

How to adjust track tension?

To configure you will need:

  1. Make preparations. You will need to heat up the suspension and the track belt itself after driving more than two kilometers. Raise and fix the snowmobile so that the tracks rotate without connecting to the snow or other surface, then move the lever to the normal position. Clean the chassis from dirt and ice, inspect the springs, check the quality of the skid plates, check the rollers.
  2. Check and adjust tension. Make the bolts that are used for tension a little looser, check the degree of sag from the track track to the bottom of the slide in the center of the slide. The length between these elements should be about 30 mm (as in the figure above). If it is clear that adjustment of the nuts is required, then you need to: tighten the nuts and loosen the tension, or unscrew the nuts and tighten the tension.
  3. Perform centering. Start the engine, slowly adding speed to ensure smooth rotation of the gooseneck. In this case, you need to look at its tension and location, check that the sprocket threads fit into the windows. The teeth of the sprockets should be in the center of the hole - the hooks in the gooseneck.

The main signs of an over-tensioned track: the vehicle is difficult to move from a standstill, it is also difficult to accelerate, it overheats under normal conditions, and the slides wear out greatly.

The main signs of a weakly tensioned track: the drive axle stars slip relative to the track, displacement occurs, as well as their rubbing and removal of the cart during lateral impact.

Track Centering

How to do it:

  1. It is necessary to turn on the engine, slowly adding speed to achieve rotation of the track.
  2. Observe the tension and location of the track in relation to how the rear sprocket teeth fit into the perforation windows.
  3. It is important that the teeth of the sprockets at the rear are in the center of the rectangular holes - the track hooks.
  4. The length between the outer boundaries of the passages and the ends of the rollers should be similar and remain the same after turning the gooseneck in its raised state.
  5. If the goose falls on one part, then it will need to be tightened on the side where it went down, or you can slightly loosen it on the other side, taking into account the achieved state of tension.
  6. The smallest (possible) gap between the sidewalls of the sprocket and the perforation windows is 0.5 mm.

Once you have tensioned and centered the track, you can tighten the bolts to secure the track.

Daniila Rukin

Snowmobile specialist "Buran". I go fishing in my free time.

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When the track is too tight, the snowmobile has difficulty moving, accelerating, and the engine overheats under simple conditions of use. Damage to the mucus is observed.

When the caterpillar is weakly tensioned, the stars from the drive axle slip relative to the caterpillar, the caterpillar is displaced relative to the slips themselves, the tracks are wiped by the slips, and they are removed from the cart under a lateral load.

Features of operation

Severe frosts, characteristic of Russia, are not scary for a snowmobile. Dingo T200 starts in any weather due to the presence of both a handbrake and an electric starter. The vehicle is equipped with heated trigger and steering grips, which increases the level of comfort. The built-in socket (12 V) allows you to charge your phone or use a navigator. Basic information about operation (air temperature, speed, revolutions, time and mileage) is displayed on the electronic instrument panel.

A snowmobile will be an excellent option for hunters and fishermen, as it allows you to get to the desired location along with your cargo at minimal cost in comfortable conditions. The equipment is also suitable for recreation - on this snowbike you can ride off-road with a breeze or travel along difficult trails at ski resorts.

Dimensions
length2750 mm
width965 mm
height1065 mm
Track dimensions
length2626 mm (52 ​​windows, pitch – 50.5 mm)
width380 mm
lug height23 mm

Top 3 modifications of Dingo

The Dingo snowmobile is available in different versions:

  • T125
  • T150
  • T250

Before purchasing a specific model, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features of each option.

Dingo T125

The predecessor of this model is a snowmobile, the movement of which is driven by an air-type propeller.

Peculiarities:

  1. The Choho Dingo T125 530 drive chain includes 50 links.
  2. The T125 snowmobile was produced in close cooperation with specialists from Russia and China. This device takes into account all the features of the Russian Federation.
  3. The snowmobile is equipped with a Lonkin gasoline power unit.
  4. This is a copy of a motor created by specialists from Japan.
  5. Simple and high quality engine. It is used this way on pit bikes and low-power ATVs.

If necessary, spare parts can be easily purchased; they are available in the online store.

Dingo T150

This snowmobile is a successor to the T125 - the previous snowmobile model, which is equipped with a 4-stroke engine with one cylinder running on gasoline.

  1. Power 9.5 horsepower.
  2. The engine capacity is almost 150 cm3. The carburetor system includes heating of the damper - this function ensures that the engine starts in a few seconds.
  3. For Dingo T150, a drive chain with a length of about 430 and a number of links of about 44 is used.
  4. Dingo T150 is the third generation of snowmobiles from Russia.
  5. The modular design allows for quick disassembly for transportation in a passenger car.
  6. The gearbox and reverse provide active control when reversing. The rear suspension has 2 shock absorbers that effectively absorb any shock and vibration while driving.
  7. Snow hooks on a long track provide the ability to drive the vehicle in different conditions.

On this model, the steering wheel grips have a heating function, there is a compartment for various small items, which is located under the seat and luggage compartment in the rear.

Dingo T250

Peculiarities:

  1. This model is equipped with a high-power power unit.
  2. The cooling principle is forced oil.
  3. The 15 horsepower engine is turned on manually or using an electric starter.
  4. The maximum speed that a snowmobile can reach is 60 km/h.
  5. The track, consisting of rubber fabric and skis, is what gives good maneuverability. The model is equipped with a variator with reverse.
  6. The brake mechanism is hydraulic.
  7. The suspensions are independent, they effectively cope with unevenness while driving.
  8. The fuel system, which includes the carburetor diffuser heating function, is powered by 92-grade gasoline.
  9. Refill capacity 7 liters.

The T250 model features improved construction quality as well as an optimized disassembly function. It only takes a few minutes to assemble or disassemble.

Mini snowmobile Dingo-150. Reviews from Altai fishermen

"Viktorovich"

: Tested it on Utkul. On his way. It carries two, it can do more. The suspension holds up. Compared to a real snowmobile, it’s like a motorcycle with a moped. Once you get the hang of it, you can assemble it in about 15 minutes. Takes a little longer to disassemble. The main thing is to clear the tracks from snow. You can’t put one in the trunk. This is an operation for two. You must have keys for 15 and 16 with you.

Went fishing. We have enough snow now. Through the taiga - through the powder. It went fine.

( 05 Jan 2016

) The odometer shows 300 km. After 100 miles I changed the oil. In deep snow it goes well. In dense conditions, I accelerated to 46 km. It’s already difficult with one passenger. The frame and suspension are weak. As practice has shown. On bolts - chews the thread. The chain stretches. At 230 km, the steering wheel tore out. This was to be expected. The connection with two bolts is weak. And the load on this place is heavy. I fixed it by welding on the reverse side.

On my last fishing trip, it was my fault that Dingo capsized (I tried to adjust my glasses while walking). I'm nothing. Dinga's steering wheel was bent.

While fishing, at minus 30, it began to stall while driving. Starts right up, idle is normal. I start to move and it stalls. But, still, I got there. By the way, starting in the cold is normal. Overall, I’m happy with the technology.

( 01Feb 2016

) On the odometer 600 with kopecks. The reason for unstable operation in the cold has been revealed. The settling filter becomes clogged with ice. Where does the condensation come from? I bought a sled. With a passenger in the sleigh, the consumption increased significantly (59 km on a tank). Max. speed with sleigh 36 km. h. There was a problem with the gas trigger. Sometimes it stops heating. The handles are at maximum heating - they really heat up a lot, even when it’s over 30.

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(In 2017

— switched to a real snowmobile)

"krutihaivan":

In November 2015

, my brother bought a Dingo 150 (first generation).
Over the past winter, I drove 2200. And this year ( 2016
) it’s already 250 km. The following bugs appeared:

The frame breaks in different places. It's all already digested. Glushak was cooked almost again. The gooseneck wears out after 1000. The rollers must be installed from Taiga. They changed it - but it would be better to know this in advance.

The chain tensioner has broken. We put the stick in and drove home. The starter cord broke (replaced). Airy, due to vibration, it breaks off on its own. It needs to be fixed. The engine starts well in cold weather (at -30). He can’t walk on ice - he doesn’t have enough strength. But in general - normal cross-country ability. The device is unreliable. And you need to take the keys with you. And knowing how to cook will come in handy. It is more convenient to ride than on a motorized dog. Reliability is less.

In 2022

— my brother overhauled the engine and changed the variator (at 4500 mileage). Another 300 kilometers - the goose died again. The variator fell apart again - I made one out of two. The engine is also on its way out. My father-in-law also had the same one and began to die completely at 4000 km. He eats butter and still gets the same pain.

Those who don’t travel often (10-12 times in winter) can take it. But it's better to travel alone. And sell up to 3000 mileage.

"AGAT":

Here is my video about the modification of Dingo

More articles about winter fishing:

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Specifications

It is suggested that you familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the Dingo T125 snowmobile:

Dimensions (windshield length)

2510/980/1010

Propulsion type

Crawler (front sprocket arrangement)

Engine type and characteristics

Gasoline four-stroke (oil cooling). The block includes 1 cylinder with a volume of 125 cc. ml. The usual crankshaft speed is 7.5 rpm. When the above mark is reached, the rated power reaches 5.2 kilowatts/7.07 liters. With. One carburetor power system.

Suspension (front and rear)

The front is independent, the rear is roller-slide.

Transmission

Type - semi-automatic gearbox, number of gears - 4, clutch - automatic in oil bath

Fuel system

The capacity of the fuel tank is 5 liters. consumption per 100 km = 1.5 l. Gasoline AI-92.

Speed ​​(max)

50 km/h

Electronic equipment: light and additional functions

The front headlight is halogen. The following additional functions are provided: heated steering wheel and throttle trigger.

Brakes (type and mechanism)

Hydraulics, mechanism – mechanical disk

Collapsible snowmobile Irbis Dingo T150

I am addressing only real users of this snowmobile, those who use it for fishing and hunting in the northern regions of our country. I decided to buy a dismountable snowmobile Irbis Dingo T150, I saw an advertisement on the “Hunting and Fishing” channel. Costs almost 90,000 rubles. Judging by the reviews and videos on the Internet, the snowflake is impressive. But here’s the catch, which left me with some questions. All reviews and videos are based only on rides in shallow snow, the air temperature is not lower than minus 15 degrees. The reviews are only positive, which is strange, not a single bad one.

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Here is a list of my questions, the answers to which will help me make a choice:

1. Does a snowmobile take up a lot of space when disassembled? 2. How much real time does it take to assemble and disassemble? 3. How do the engine and chassis behave in frosts of minus 25 - 30 degrees (our winters are often cold)? 4. How does a snowmobile go solidly when the snow cover is more than 60 - 80 cm thick (we have enough snow, especially after snowstorms)? 5. What is its rear sight speed when the snow cover is more than 60 - 80 cm thick? 6. How reliable are the variator, reverse, heated grips, and chassis (you don’t really want to crawl waist-deep in snow all the way home)? 7. How are things going with spare parts for all components and assemblies, including electronics, for the snowmobile?

I would also like to note. The snowmobile is planned to be used in the northern region, where it is better not to joke with winters, and not in the middle zone, as reviews and videos on the Internet show.

Here is actually a photo of the most dismountable snowmobile Irbis Dingo T150:

You can get acquainted with its description and photos in more detail on the Internet; there is more than enough information on it.

You are right, sir, all the reviews come from riders: apparently, serious users either have no time, or they have not yet decided on an assessment (the model is relatively new!). Accordingly, the description of breakdowns is the same. One serious guy once remarked on this matter on one of the forums: the cause of most T-150 breakdowns is the “gasket” between the steering wheel and the seat.

1. T-150 fits in the shorty SUZUKI JIMNY. I carry the sleigh with small things on the trunk, on the roof. 2. The first time alone, without any experience, it took me about an hour. After acquiring the appropriate skill - 15 minutes, both 3. At temperatures below -20, the engine must be warmed up, otherwise it will not start. To do this, I place a small Korean primus directly under the engine for about 30 minutes, and cover the walk-behind tractor itself with a tarpaulin. When it’s minus 30 and there’s wind/blizzard, it’s better to cover the engine with at least cardboard so you don’t sneeze or eat gasoline like a rutabaga cow. 4. On the plain - quite decent, even with uneven density of snow. Uphill - depends on the hill, the characteristics of the snow, and on the “gasket” between the steering wheel and the seat. 5. Speed ​​is limited solely by composure and acrobatics of the aforementioned “layout”: the snowmobile is extremely unstable on loose, loose, deep snow. It easily falls to the side if horse riding is not your style. 6. CVT without problems. Reversing under load is contraindicated - the tensioner roller moves out and the drive chain begins to slip. Heated handles are relevant for kids on rides at minus 15, but not for you in your frosty weather. Stock up on decent mittens. The caterpillar is trouble-free if you don’t prance (again in the cold) on ice, and then on stones and bushes. 7. There are no service centers in Primorye, spare parts are scarce in stores, but they can be purchased by ordering them in the same store where you buy this arrogant little crook that consumes a glass of gasoline per kilometer.

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Spare parts

Dingo snowmobiles operate in conditions that are not comfortable, are used at low temperatures, and are in contact with a humid environment. The design of snowmobiles is suitable for such conditions and has a long service life. But over time, repairs are required. In the catalog you can purchase the following spare parts for the Dingo snowmobile:

  • power units, carburetor, instrument panel
  • luggage compartment
  • spare parts
  • brake discs
  • headlights
  • stars
  • mufflers
  • shock absorbers, etc.

It is recommended to purchase spare parts for Dingo snowmobiles through an authorized dealer. In order for the machine to operate properly and not require inspection over a long period of operation, the spare parts chosen must be reliable from trusted manufacturers.

DINGO T150 - general questions

Fidel

Veteran

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

[quote=”Enthused” And if I understand correctly, 150ka will give the opportunity to spin up to 8.5 thousand revolutions, while maintaining a speed of 40-50 km without overheating?[/quote] - I would not count on such a speed. If I’m not mistaken, when testing the prototype, albeit with the Buranovskaya gooseneck, the maximum that was achieved without strain was 40 km/h. This is also written in the instructions - maximum speed 40 mph. Don't forget about the increased weight and load on the front arms. if they hit a bump or stump, it will be very unpleasant for them. This is not a racing snowmobile, its task is to reliably and safely deliver the owner to a given point and reliably bring it back.

loki070

New guy

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Regarding high speed! I would like to support dear Fidel. This snowmobile was not created for driving; its purpose is completely different. And I’ll tell you that even a speed of 40 km/h is already a lot, and if you speed up at it, it won’t seem like much. Therefore, high-speed snowmobiles have completely different design and safety requirements. Let's not make a racing snowmobile out of a hard worker! And regarding the new snowmobile, I will say the following: I own a T125. He took it for his wife, because... She is afraid of more serious snowmobiles, but this winter she has become hooked on the snowmobile theme! ))) So, as soon as I saw the T150, I decided to attach the T125 and take the T150. There is a very big “+” in it - it’s a CVT! Although my wife drove the T125 all winter, in some situations it was difficult for her to figure it out and turn on the right speed at the right moment. A more powerful engine is also a big “+”! I was very pleased with the carburetor: I had the same problem this winter, and the snowmobile started like a foreign car (I don’t drive below -35 as a matter of principle, but up to this threshold it started without problems!). The presence of normal footrests is something that was so lacking in the T125. Well, the rest of the little girls will also be on topic! My wife really liked the T125 and was against replacing it, but when I explained everything to her, she was also excited about the new snowmobile! In general, I will rent out my 125 before winter and take 150 in the fall. Although, to be fair, the 125 was not bad either!

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Fidel

Veteran

Diman 12

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Anatoliy034

New guy

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

DenSanih

Tsar. Just a king..

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Is the “warranty” sold locally?

do not make me laugh. You've been bodazza all winter. It’s easier to eliminate it yourself on such a unit. Even in the case of a wedge q-maximum you will get stuck by 2t.r.

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Well, I definitely won’t take it to the dealer, I’ll fix it myself faster. Although once I had to (only he had the necessary spare part in stock, due to the specifics of the engine). In general, according to statistics from the last two winters, in case of problems with a local dealer, Irbis helped resolve the warranty issue quite quickly, here we must give them credit, obviously, they have leverage.

But in the absence of a dealer, there will be no one to resolve the issue with. “On my own, all on my own.” But people who want to save 3 thousand at a gray dealer are usually not ready to spend their 2 thousand on out-of-warranty repairs.

DenSanih

Tsar. Just a king..

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Clear. Next question. Do you think that the 150 will pull two passengers weighing 70-90 kg with the second snowmobile along the track?

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

I think yes. The 125 could cope with this, though on the brink. And here the goose is longer and toothier, and the engine is more powerful. And a variator, again, that will prevent you from slipping into the axle box. But for now this is all speculation. You need to buy it first

Vovanty

Veteran

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

They wrote so much while I was fishing on the Kola. and the structure has changed and the photo of the 150th! I read the instructions and really thought about it, maybe it’s worth giving up the 125th? One thing confused me - why is only 100 kg indicated about the sled? The 125th had 150, it seems. Still, we have to wait for people to travel. And then, in order to get it at a discount, you first need to buy and then sell the previous one? And how much to take for it with all the alterations.

DimastiJ

Active participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Retail price for Dingo 150 79950 rub. the price increased by 5000 rubles. as discussed earlier. sadness, I’m already looking at a mukhtar motorized dog with skis, light, compact, powerful and the price is mere pennies

Anatoly Seslavin

Active participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Irbis Motors added photos. The green one is good.

Vovanty

Veteran

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

the question about traction qualities was left without attention. Well, it’s understandable - the creators only know, others can only guess. Then I want to clarify about the purchase. Is the discount only if you own it at the time of purchase? It’s clear with making offers on the website. That is, the sell-add-buy option doesn’t work?

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Gray Wolf

Active participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Ilya_Korshunov

Participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

By the way, in the photos of the new Dingo I saw a zero-resistance air filter

Attachments

Fidel

Veteran

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

he is there. and also a heated carburetor and automatic choke

Angap3776

Participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

But really, gentlemen, how will things go with his cravings? The 125 sled pulled perfectly, even exceeded my expectations. Wouldn't the 150 be faster than the high-torque one??

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Angap3776

Participant

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Old timer

Re: Dingo T-150 - new 2014.

Well, let's get our fingers crossed when comparing models 125 and 150: - the motor of the 150 is 2.5 hp more powerful - the increased engine power is compensated by lengthening the gooseneck, i.e. a larger contact patch, plus its new toothy profile - everything suggests that it will not grind (and dig in at the same time), it will bite and push off. — The increased weight of the device should also add stability to its behavior, removing at least partially the yaw characteristic of the 125th model.

Well, and most importantly, the author of this snowball in the homemade forum, here, on a snowmobile, back in 12, he posted his work on snow with this motor. If it were bad, homemade people wouldn’t copy it so many times. Well, or not to copy - the suspension here is clearly completely its own, not similar to anything else, the author's version, but simply use this engine in your designs. They even found one place in Russia where a person bought a container of such motors and then sold them at a price cheaper than anyone else. So all the homemade products were only purchased there. Now, it seems, that container has run out, and the price tag has become the same as everywhere else. Everything is fine there with traction, the engine is suitable not only for scooters, but also for light quads, and there you need traction no less than on a snowmobile - they don’t drive on asphalt.

I was looking through the gallery of T-150 pictures and noticed that some of the pictures were clearly taken from the prototype (that is, with that universal engine). It has both lower silent blocks, which are used when suspending it on ATVs, and upper ones, which are used when suspending it on scooters.

And here is the same angle, but on the cover of the reversible starter there is already a plate glued with Russian reminders necessary for certification, and look - the upper silent bands are no longer there, they are simply not pressed in, neither on the left nor on the right. That is, the device is already one of those that will come to you, serial, maximally lightweight from parts unnecessary in this context of use, and therefore 100 rubles cheaper.

Cost of Irbis Dingo T150

At the moment, you can buy this model at a price within the following range: from 75 to 98 thousand rubles. It is inexpensive, its price varies depending on when it was produced.

The cost varies depending on the year of manufacture and type of equipment. A used snowmobile costs between 48-70 thousand rubles. The main factors that influence the price of an option are the year of production, mileage and condition.

Choosing a gel battery

Many online stores offer automated selection of batteries according to specified parameters: dimensions, capacity, current or brand of battery, model, year of manufacture, car engine type. Due to the high price and low popularity, the option of selecting a gel battery by car brand is not yet offered by large stores. However, if they are available in the assortment, they are sorted according to vehicle parameters along with lead-acid ones.

General trends to consider when selecting:

When replacing a traditional lead-acid battery with an AGM, the new one provides similar functionality with 5% less capacity than before, while maintaining the same starting current.

Types of batteries

For example, when replacing:

Lead-acidAGM
65 Ah62 Ah
95 Ah90 Ah

The capacity of the GEL battery can be reduced to 15-20% without compromising the existing needs of the car; the technological features of the battery will provide a higher starting current.

For example:

Lead-acidGEL
65 Ah52-55 A/h
95 Ah76-81 A/h
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