Effortless: installing an electric starter on a motorcycle

Some motorcyclists, owners of not only Stels SB 200, Racer Skyway 200, but also absolutely any other Stels, Racer, Patron, Irbis, Minsk, Omaks, Lifan and any other motorcycles, may encounter an unpleasant situation when the bike does not start. And there is only one symptom: something explodes. In this article we will help you deal with this problem.

First, let's describe this situation in detail. Approach the bike, turn the ignition key, press the engine stop button. Then press the electric start button. And instead of starting the starter and, of course, the crankshaft, you hear an unexpected crack somewhere inside the motorcycle. Also, you can see on a voltmeter (if your bike like the Stels SB 200 has a voltmeter) how the voltage drops. So what's the problem?

If you start to disassemble the bike and look for the source of the crackling noise, you will hear it from the starter relay. This is exactly what comes out. There may be two reasons. Let's start with the most common reason: low battery charge. It may seem to you that this is nonsense, because you recently charged the battery or some other reason not to believe it. But trust me and charge the battery well. You can read about how to properly charge the battery on our website. After this you will be able to start the motorcycle. If the battery is constantly draining while riding and as a result the motorcycle does not start at some point, it is recommended to check the charging relay.

If you still cannot start your motorcycle with a properly charged battery, a less common problem is poor contact in the wires that make up the engine starting system. These are wires from the battery to the relay, from the relay to the starter and ground to the frame and engine. It is necessary to inspect all wires for good tightening and clean contacts.

Thus, you will solve the problem of the Stels SB 200 motorcycle not starting, which is accompanied by an accident. Check the technical condition of your motorcycle regularly.

If you just hear a loud cracking sound when you turn the ignition key from the engine compartment, do not rush to immediately blame the starter for all your troubles. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon, and failure of the starter solenoid relay is only one of the most common malfunctions. Today we will talk about why the starter started to break down and what to do to restore its functionality.

Motorcycle starter relay does not click

On scooters, the electric starter often fails.
Of course, Kickstarter can help out, but it’s not very convenient to use. The engine may not start due to a faulty battery: the contacts have come loose, the charge has run out, the device is worn out. If there is no spinning sound when the starter turns on, then the problem is in the battery. If you can’t charge it, it means it’s out of order, worn out and you’ll have to install a new one. If pressing “Start” does not produce a click in the electric starter relay, the problem is more serious. The unit may be faulty and needs to be replaced. The problem can arise when various components wear out. Most often they need to be replaced.

You can fix some scooter problems yourself

Electric starter does not work

If the scooter does not start from the foot, then its operation is impaired. If the electrical circuit is working properly, but the relay clicks when you press “Start,” then the problem is a bad contact or a broken starter.

To evaluate its performance, you need to apply voltage to it without activating the relay. If the electric starter does not turn, then it needs to be replaced.

Starter relay failure

The relay maintains the voltage at the required level for further distribution to headlights, dashboard indicators and other elements. Its durability depends on the battery. If the voltage in the generator increases or decreases, the relay is faulty. Because of this, the starter does not start. In this case, the relay needs to be replaced.

Problems with the button

When the Start button is pressed, the starter rotates and drives the engine gears. If the scooter does not start with the electric starter button, there is a malfunction. The wiring in the engine starting system could have come loose. If the scooter starts from the foot, but not from the “Start” button, then the fuse is faulty: the voltage in the generator drops, so the button does not work.

How to Start a Scooter with a Chainsaw Starter

Every person has the sun.

About the flycatcher, the bicycle, the Chusovaya River.

An unusual way to start the engine on a Super Sport Acar scooter

A somewhat unusual way to get a 139QMB engine on a Chinese Super Sport Acar scooter

Problems with the new battery (couldn't use the e/starter) and on top of that the starter motor started slipping pushed me to find another way to start the 139qmb in the scooter. I've always been drawn to snowmobile launches. don't stomp. I just lifted and pulled the cord.

Carefully inspect the generator side of the engine with the guard and generator impeller removed and notice that the diameter of the internal generator threads for the stripper matches the threads of the Friendship ratchet. The thread pitch actually differed by about 25 mm. I tried and it wrapped about half a turn. For me, firstly, the main thing was to check the effectiveness. Just holding the chainsaw starter tightly in your hand, and the second one. via cable. The ratchet was engaged and the engine began to turn as needed. He then started having an iron casing protect the impeller instead of plastic.

Malfunction of the starter retractor relay

This is precisely the reason for the malfunction of the starter retractor relay. The pull-in winding may be faulty. The relay clicks but the starter does not turn. Because the holding winding is triggered. But its current strength is not enough to compress the spring force and retract the relay armature and press the coin to the terminals.

Winding fault

This is a common malfunction. Because the main load falls on the pull-in winding. Because maximum effort is required to retract the anchor. This winding has a larger wire cross-section. Accordingly, a larger current is created in it than in the holding winding.

Carbon formation

Another malfunction of the solenoid relay is the formation of carbon deposits on the coin and terminals. As a result of exposure to a strong electric current, carbon deposits and burnout of the surface are formed on the coin and terminals as a result of their interaction. When connecting the nickel and the terminals, the carbon deposits do not make contact, and the electric current does not flow to the starter windings. On the solenoid relays where the cover with the terminals is removed. This problem can be easily solved. The nickel turns over to the other side. The terminals are cleaned.

How does a car starter work?

This is an electric motor with a retractor relay that turns the starter on and off, and a bendix that rotates the engine flywheel.

Design of a modern starter / autopulsar.ru

A typical starter design includes a rotor with a commutator, which is housed inside a housing with a stator or permanent magnets. At the rear there is a brush assembly and a cover with a bearing. In the front there is a gearbox, which may not be present in older models, a bendix and a second cover with a bearing. In the upper part there is a solenoid relay connected to the switching drive by a plug.

The starter operates in three stages.

1. When you turn the ignition key, current passes through the starter control relay and is supplied to the solenoid relay. The latter moves the bendix along the shaft and engages the drive with the flywheel crown.
2. At the same time, the power contacts of the retractor relay close. Current is supplied to the starter brush assembly, and the device begins to spin.
3. After starting the engine, the rotation speed of the flywheel exceeds the rotor speed. The Bendix overrunning clutch engages and it is disconnected from the starter shaft. When the ignition key is returned to its original position, the solenoid relay is switched off. The starter drive is disengaged from the flywheel.

Rules for operating a moped

The service life of a moped depends on maintenance. Care comes down to following the rules recommended by the manufacturer.

The main ones include:

1. Testing a new scooter. The first concerns the running-in of a new scooter. The scooter must not be overloaded for the first 1000 km. When driving for a long time, you must stop every 30 minutes to prevent the engine from overheating.
2. Correct use in winter. You need to drain the fuel before storing the scooter in the garage for the winter. Remaining fuel can destroy the tank and flood the carburetor. If you plan to use the scooter in winter, you need to change the fuel, check the battery charge, oil level, condition of the filters and tire pressure (it should be about 1.5 atmospheres).
3. Correct use in summer. In hot weather, it is important to prevent the scooter from overheating. When driving for a long time at 30 degrees, the cylinders will be constantly overheated. This could cause the belt to break or the engine to break down. You should also not squeeze the throttle for too long, and when stopping, immediately turn off the engine.
4. Use quality fuel. Gasoline must be at least 92. On a new moped, you need to change the oil for the first time after a run of 500 km. Subsequent replacement will be required every 1000 km. The first time to change the oil in the rear gearbox is after 200 km, then every 5000 km.
5. Replacing the variator belt. This part is considered a consumable item, as it wears out quickly due to the high power load. If the moped stops squeezing out high speed, then the part and its components need to be replaced.
6. Carburetor maintenance. The procedure includes a visual inspection for leaks and gasoline consumption levels, checking the condition of the connecting elements and the serviceability of the unit elements.
7. Filtration quality control. The filter must be replaced promptly and impregnated with a special product after installation. This is necessary for high-quality air purification. Dirty air reduces the life of the motor.

The motorcycle won't start...

What could this be and what should I do? Our advice:

FIRST. Pay attention to whether the starter works when you press the button.

If it turns slowly and the lights on the dashboard go out, then most likely your battery is simply dead, look for an option to charge it.

If there are zero such options, try to jump start the motorcycle (read about this below) in order to get to the nearest motorcycle/car repair shop to find out the cause of the malfunction or at least to recharge the battery.

SECOND. The starter doesn't turn at all.

There may be three options:

1. The side stand is up and the bike is in gear. It happens to everyone) Remove the bandwagon!
2. The battery has reached zero - charge the battery.
3. There is a problem with the starter or fuse. The solution is either calling a mechanic, or a motorcycle tow truck to a motorcycle service center, or.

THIRD. The starter is operating normally.

We check the fuel valve; if it is suddenly closed, open it.

And, just in case, again it happens to everyone, we look to see if there is gasoline in the tank.

FOURTH. If everything is in order with this, then we look at the spark plugs.

Unscrew the spark plugs. Are they damp and smell like gasoline? This means they are flooded. This can be for two reasons - you filled them or there is a malfunction in the motorcycle.

If you did this, for example, you turned off or started the motorcycle incorrectly, then you can fix it as follows.

Dry the spark plugs, blow them out and heat them. !We do not clean with a wire brush!

Next, put the dry spark plugs in place and try to start the motorcycle. If the motorcycle works, then !hurray! we continue our way.

TIP: purchase and carry a spare set of candles with you; once filled candles can stop working at any time, even if you bought them just yesterday.

If after the above steps the motorcycle does not start, then there is a clear malfunction either in the presence of a spark or in the fuel supply. You will have to take the motorcycle to a specialist motorcycle service center.

The candles are fine, they are dry.

FIFTH. Checking the fuel supply.

Remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor/injector.

Carefully! There must be gasoline in the hose, and it may be under pressure.

If there is no gasoline there, then the problem is most likely in the fuel pump or fuel tap.

And if you can try to solve the problem with the faucet yourself (rinse, blow out, clean), then it is better to entrust the problem with the gas pumps to specialists, so as not to make things worse.

All these actions led to nothing?

Features of checking the performance of elements of the starting system of a car engine

After visual inspection of the condition of the starting system parts, they begin to dismantle the starter to test its components:

1. It is possible to determine how worn out the brush assembly is only after disassembling the starter housing. Despite the long service life of the brushes, they still wear out. At the same time, their development on some starter models does not allow the traction relay to be activated. In this case, the clicks it makes will not be heard.
2. Burning of the windings on the coils can be easily determined both visually and by the presence of a burning smell. Since it makes no sense to restore their functionality, you will have to replace the starter.
3. It is possible to perform a traction stress test without its housing. To do this, you need to close the two large terminals on the relay using a screwdriver, being careful not to catch the housing elements. The presence of problems with the retractor will be signaled by the beginning of shaft rotation. Note that one of the unpleasant consequences of this is the burning of the relay contact groups. Since they contain a special protective coating to prevent damage, it is not recommended to clean carbon deposits from them. In this case, only a complete replacement of the traction rod is indicated.

DIY tuning

The starter installation procedure described above requires fairly good skill and special equipment. Therefore, if you do not have an argon welding machine or a lathe, you should find out in advance where you can use the services of professionals of the appropriate profile. All manufactured fastening parts and gears must have minimum tolerances, since the reliability of the installed electric starter depends on this. The starter itself must be in good technical condition - to make sure of this, it is worth checking the bushings and shaft. If all these conditions are met, the electric starter will serve you for many years, providing maximum convenience for starting your motorcycle engine.

The relay does not click. Starter malfunction

Important! The starter is not designed to operate for a long time. It consumes too much electrical energy, and the battery reserves are not unlimited. Its reserves are barely enough for 10 - 15 seconds, during which the car will have time to advance a maximum of 100 - 120 meters.

When the starter is working properly, a click can be clearly heard. This sound is made by the relay when the bendex is retracted. If the starter relay does not click, then one of three problems is happening:

1. The power supply has been interrupted. Moreover, there may be current, but the voltage reading will be too low. Checking the wires and connections will confirm (or refute) this suspicion. However, the most common reason is battery discharge.
2. Mechanical damage to individual starter elements. Accumulated wear, repeated attempts to start the engine incorrectly, and failure to inspect this part during regular maintenance are all aggravating factors for mechanical damage.
3. Relay failure. This fact can only be confirmed by professional diagnostics.

There are also situations not related to the relay when a starter malfunction is detected. In this case, there must be firm confidence that the battery is fully charged. For example:

• The starter works, but the flywheel does not rotate. The cause is a worn ring on the flywheel. Replacing it, as well as turning the crankshaft a few centimeters, completely solves this problem.
• Immobilizers block the vehicle's electrical circuits, making it impossible to activate the starter (no current is supplied). Before starting, turn off the anti-theft system.
• The brushes (and brush holders) are worn out. This is, in general, the weak point of the starter. With their help, voltage is transmitted to the rotating rotor. Constant friction leads to rapid wear.
• Damage to the winding insulation leads to a short circuit in its turns. Smoke and an unpleasant burning smell may appear. Such a starter cannot be restored without replacing the winding.
• Poor shaft alignment leading to jamming or stiff rotation of the starter.
• Gear wear leads to inconsistency between the bendix and the flywheel. It simply slides through the teeth without catching them. The problem is solved by replacing the gear.

Additional work

Since the standard electrical system of the Ural motorcycle, as well as the circuit of most imported vehicles, is not designed to operate equipment with a starter, modifications will have to be made to it. At the slightest drop in ambient temperature, starting problems may arise - the starter will quickly discharge the battery, which will force you to recharge it and subsequently use the pedal. Experienced motorcyclists recommend installing a battery from a Japanese car from the 90s on a two-wheeled vehicle. This battery has compact dimensions and a fairly large capacity - up to 65 Ah.

However, installing a large battery will entail another problem - the generator will not be able to charge such a battery completely, and the starter will again be unable to be used. To resolve this issue, you can use the following technical solutions:

• Rewind a standard generator to increase its power by 100-200 watts. However, you need to understand that the reliability of such a node will decrease;
• Installation of a starter is often accompanied by replacing the standard generator with a unit from a light tractor or from a modern model from the Irbit plant;
• To replace the generator with a similar unit from an imported small car from the 90s - parts from Honda and Daihatsu are ideal.

Modifying the electrical network after installing the starter requires a certain amount of professionalism, since if the wires are connected incorrectly or if the insulation is insufficiently wound, you can simply burn the motorcycle.

Since the generator always loses some of its power over time, the starter may stop working again. To avoid such a problem, it is worth cleaning the brushes of the unit every 10 thousand kilometers, adjusting the clearance of its drive mechanism, and also eliminating minor faults. Also, every 5 thousand kilometers, inspect the wiring - if melted areas or breakdowns begin to appear on it, it is worth installing cables with a larger cross-section.

Relay clicks when starting

#1 OFFLINE Bumblebee

• users
• 591 messages
• Rostov-on-Don
• Bike:HD Sportster 1200

Greetings! This morning an incident happened: I inserted the ignition key, the lights on the dash are on normally, there is light, I press the electric starter button - it doesn’t turn and I hear a click under the seat every time I press it. I rolled the engine back and forth - I tried it again and everything was absolutely fine, it started without any problems. Oh guru, it’s time for “diagnosis from photography”, tell a noob what this could be connected with?

I even made a video. True vertical.

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#2 OFFLINE Uncle OZZE

• photos&contacts
• Bike:BMW R1100R

Strip the contacts on the battery wires that go to ground (- ) (frame-engine) and + of the starter, and especially the contacts that go to the starter relay.

Post edited by Uncle OZZE: April 28, 2022 - 15:45

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#3 OFFLINE Vovka

#4 ONLINE Dabbuger

• photos&contacts
• City: Rostov-on-Don, western
• Bike:Yamaha Majesty s155

This happens to me from time to time, I don’t worry too much. And about contacts, this is all correct, most likely there is no other reason

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#5 OFFLINE Ksu

• photos&contacts
• City: Azov
• Bike:Suzuki V-Strom DL1000

I inserted the ignition key, the lights on the dash are lit normally, there is light,

Vit, I don’t know anything about the main problem, but here’s some advice about this phrase:

Do not turn on the light before starting.

That's where the bi-xenon is installed, it consumes a lot of energy when starting up

And your battery is almost a year old and has been in active use.

I quickly destroyed the previous tired battery with the lights not turned off upon arrival.

In the morning I turned the key, the light came on, I started it from the pusher)

Post edited by Ksyu: 28 April 2022 - 15:58

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#6 OFFLINE ViK_Pro

• Rostov-on-Don
• Bike:HONDA CBR1100XX

A friend had the same symptoms last year. The starter relay clicks. He doesn’t like to figure it out himself, so he took me to MotoDon, and the investigation showed that the battery was faulty.

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#7 OFFLINE Bumblebee

• Rostov-on-Don
• Bike:HD Sportster 1200

I understand the direction, thank you!

Ksyu, just yesterday I forgot to turn it off. Usually I extinguish everything or leave only the dimensions.

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#8 OFFLINE Big_Ant

• City: Rostov
• Bike:YZF-R6 09′

From my experience - the relay clicked and did not start from the button because of the relay itself) I took it apart - the contacts inside were soured. Fortunately, the relays are universal, I replaced them with a new one.

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#9 OFFLINE Ksu

• photos&contacts
• City: Azov
• Bike:Suzuki V-Strom DL1000

just yesterday and forgot to turn it off

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#10 OFFLINE Kali

• Rostov-on-Don
• Bike:HD Sportster 1200

Attached files

• IMG_8179.jpg 145.08K 0 Number of downloads:
• IMG_8180.jpg 187.32K 0 Number of downloads:

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#12 ONLINE Seryoga gray cat

• Rostov-on-Don
• Bike: IZH-49 1947 Tula.

It greatly depends on how much the contacts are oxidized. Sandpaper is not very convenient there due to the complex shape of the contacts and the fact that sandpaper cannot reach all places. You can clean strong oxides with a small iron brush. And if possible, the tree is less traumatic for contacts. This is especially true for relay contacts. If you clean them on wood, there is usually no damage, but sandpaper removes the coating and then it will burn again. But of course, it happens that there is no way out and then you have to use only a fine one and then wipe it with alcohol to remove the remaining abrasive. And by the way, pay attention to the place where the wire hairs are pressed into contact. If the hairs themselves are visually strongly oxidized and there is oxidation around them, the inside may also be oxidized, and then only press on a new contact and it’s good if you can find them on sale. If you don’t have a tester, a small light bulb will help when checking. For example, put it on the battery and if, when you try to start it, it lights up just as brightly, then the battery is normal, and if it almost or completely goes out, then the battery needs at least a charge. And so on, before and after the starter relay. If it’s on, then it’s OK; if, for example, before the relay it’s on and then it goes out, then it’s a matter of the relay or the contacts around it.

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Emergency engine starting methods

When the starter does not click or make any sounds at all, the engine can be started if it is closed “directly”. This is not the best solution, but in cases where you need to go urgently and there is no other option, you can use it.

Let's consider the situation of how to start the engine directly using the example of a VAZ-2110 car. So, the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• engage neutral gear and set the car to the handbrake;
• turn on the ignition by turning the key in the lock and open the hood, since we will carry out further actions in the engine compartment;
• remove the air filter from its seat and move it to the side in order to get to the starter contacts;
• disconnect the chip going to the contact group;
• use a metal object (for example, a screwdriver with a wide flat blade or a piece of wire) to short-circuit the starter terminals;
• as a result of this, provided that the other components listed above are in good working order and the battery is charged, the car will start.

After this, install the chip and air filter back. An interesting fact is that in most cases the engine will continue to be started using the ignition key. However, you should remember that the breakdown still remains, so you need to look for it yourself or go to a car service center for help in order to fix it.

Emergency engine start

We offer you another method that will be useful to you if you need to start the engine in an emergency. It is only suitable for front wheel drive passenger cars with manual transmission! The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• it is necessary to jack up the car by hanging any of the front wheels;
• turn the hung wheel outwards all the way (if the left wheel - then to the left, if the right wheel - then to the right);
• wrap a tow rope or strong rope around the surface of the tire 3-4 times, leaving 1-2 meters free;
• engage THIRD gear;
• turn the key in the ignition;
• pull strongly on the end of the cable, trying to spin the wheel (it is better to do this not in place, but with a slight run-up);
• when the car starts, first of all set the gear to neutral (you can do this without pressing the clutch pedal) and wait until the wheel stops completely ;
• lower the hanging wheel to the ground.

How to check the solenoid relay

You can check the VR in two ways - without removing it from the car and after removing it together with the starter. If you suspect that the signal from the lock is lost somewhere in the circuit, first carry out a regular test on the car, then, based on the results, the unit can be removed and checked more accurately - with a multimeter.

Check without removing from the car:

1. Put the car on the handbrake, make sure it is in neutral gear.
2. Turn on the ignition and leave the key in the lock.
3. Remove the connector (thin wire) from the control terminal BP.
4. Using a screwdriver, close the terminal with the upper power bolt (plus from the battery).

If after this the car starts, the problem is in the control circuit (the pulse from the lock does not reach the terminal). If the starter continues to click but does not turn, check the devices separately. To do this, the “traction” needs to be disconnected from the starter housing (it’s easier to remove them from the car together, and then separate them).

Check after removal:

1. Turn the multimeter into audible dialing mode.
2. Connect one probe of the device to the control terminal.
3. The second one has a lower power bolt (terminal for brushes).
4. If there is a signal, the pull-in winding is intact.
5. Leaving the first probe on the terminal, attach the second one to the body.
6. If there is a signal, the holding coil is also intact.
7. Install the device vertically, on the anchor, with the terminals facing up.
8. Throw the probes onto the bolts - one on the top, the other on the bottom.
9. Press the relay, pressing the armature all the way.
10. If there is sound, the power terminals are closed correctly, the plate is working.
11. If there is no sound, but the display displays numbers, it does not work. The reason is external resistance.

Checking the solenoid relay with a multimeter
If at least one breakdown is detected, the part is replaced with a new one or a known good one. If both coils are intact, and the plate closes the “nickels” normally, all that remains is to test the force with which the spare part moves the armature plunger. To do this, first measure the free play of the plunger by inserting the relay into place in the housing until the loop tightly touches the fork lever, and use a ruler to measure the distance between the electric starter housing and the retractor itself. Pull out the part, push the plunger in until it touches the spring, now set the resulting distance on the plunger from the edge of the body. Mark (with marker or awl).

From the equipment you will need: a charged battery, three pieces of wire with a cross-section of 2 squares, with alligator clips and a plug for the control terminal (connector 50).

• Fix two wires with one end to the “ground” (body) of the part.
• Connect one of these wires to the negative terminal of the battery.
• Place the third wire with the plug on the positive battery.
• With one hand, press the part to the surface, “squeezing” the plunger to the mark.
• Place the plug on connector 50.
• Touch the end of the free wire (from the housing) to the lower power bolt.
• If the core overcomes the resistance and retracts, there is no problem, the solenoid relay is working.

To evaluate the force, you need to securely fix the device (by the loop on the anchor) on a flat, solid base. The surface should not conduct current - for example, a wooden or cardboard-covered table.

Garage → Relay voltage regulator (diagnostics, manufacturing, replacement)

I had a wonderful motorcycle Zizer 400 -98.

And one day this happened: after riding, I drove to a gas station and filled the tank full. It’s already dark outside, I go to the motorcycle, look at it, my eyes are happy, my emotions are overwhelming. I sit down, press the starter and figs - there’s some kind of crackling noise, the starter doesn’t turn. I called my friend, explained the situation, he said he would come. I'm waiting, sir, I arrived in about 10 minutes. We didn’t think long about it, it was too late to get to the garage 1-2 km away, so we decided to try to start it with a pushrod. It started up with a bang from the pushrod, but the headlight does not light up. I drove without a headlight, fortunately my comrade was driving ahead and had his headlight on.

Video for those interested. (you don't have to watch it :))

It was night outside, I didn’t bother to rack my brains, I stomped home with heavy thoughts. The morning is wiser than the evening. The next day I went to the garage to solve the problem. I started dancing from something simple. We diagnose fuses. I checked. They turned out to be all intact.

I took a photo of the fuse box in the garage.

I decided to start the horse again, and oh mystic horror... the starter spun, then silence. A neighbor in the garage came here, we don’t leave our own people in trouble