Which oil is best for 2-stroke scooter engines

Scooter rider

Everyone who takes the path of a motorbike enthusiast is faced with the problem of choosing and changing oil for a scooter or motorcycle. While some people change it immediately after purchase, others travel several thousand kilometers and only then change the oil. But there are also those who do not change it at all; this, of course, does not last long. To choose which oil is suitable for your scooter, you need to know the type of engine of your scooter. There are two-stroke (2t) and four-stroke (4t) scooters. Accordingly, there is oil for 2t and 4t scooters. For each of them there are three types of oil: mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic. Let's decide on the type of oil that suits your scooter. To do this, determine the type of engine: two-stroke or four-stroke. After this, you can start making your selection.

What don't two-stroke engines like?

When preparing the working mixture manually, it should be remembered that two-stroke engines do not reach their designed operating power if the proportions of the fuel mixture are violated. The above condition forces the owner of the unit to comply with the proportions. As practice shows, when using a brush cutter with an underfill of lubricant, the engine is starved of oil, which does not allow the unit to reach standard power.

Excess lubricant prevents the engine from developing the required power. When preparing the working mixture, a reasonable question arises as to how much oil needs to be mixed in gasoline. Helps to accurately determine the standard. It is recommended to fill gasoline into the trimmer according to the following mathematical calculation. If the fuel tank holds 5 liters, 1 liter of gasoline is divided by 50. That is, 100 ml of lubricating consistency is poured into gasoline for the trimmer for 5 liters. The owner of a brush cutter receives an ideal fuel based on its structural composition.

Other answers in this thread

#2 Alexsey

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Actually these are the main questions:

1) What kind of oil should I pour into the engine? In the store, the seller said that before selling it he had filled it with some Energy 10W40, that is, semi-synthetic, but he already found out that it was not very good. They offer to pour Hado, synthetics for 80 UAH per liter. Who knows, tell me what kind of oil is best to fill here so that it is of good quality. And how is Hado.

2) Which front fork is better? They offer the same one as before, a spring Honda, Taiwan. You can also go to China, but they say it’s worse. Is it possible to install a Honda or other good hydraulic fork here?? The mechanic says that all hydraulic forks for Hondas have disc brakes (I have drum brakes). Yes, you can also put a repair kit on this fork, but as I already found out, it will last for about a season and is not the best option. Tell me what to do?

3) The scooter travels for a maximum of 50 km, but it’s the same whether it’s going up or down the mountain, that is, there is some crap in the engine, you can feel it, the traction is good. Is it worth playing with rollers to increase the speed? They say if you put the rollers at a high max. speed then the traction will be lost. And the fact that right now I have Japanese videos, factory ones, but they are sold in worse quality. How much will I receive in max. speed if I set it to max. speed rollers?? And what are they anyway, in terms of speed/traction??

• Up of the page up there ^

#3 Alexsey

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I’m starting to have a monologue on this topic. But I will say that after surfing this forum, I found answers to all my questions. Almost everything. Here's a couple more:

1) Why is this scooter called smart? As far as I know, the smart one is the AF-57 for its function of turning off the engine at idle when idle and starting when the throttle is touched. Mine doesn't have that, I checked.

2) Prompt with an air fork. Is it worth investing in this scooter, which ones are suitable, how much does it cost? What kind of ketai do you say? offered for 500 UAH. I will not convert the brakes to disc ones.

• Up of the page up there ^

#4 tason

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• Up of the page up there ^

#5 Alexsey

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• Up of the page up there ^

#6 evvo

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• Up of the page up there ^

#7 Administrator

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Alexsey (15.3.2009, 11:20) wrote: evvo (15.3.2009, 15:03) wrote:
both options are correct.

At the service station we use the first one. those. version with molybdenum.

But in general, if it’s wise, then manufacturers recommend changing gear oil (not topping it up) every 5000 km. and, accordingly, regular motor oil - every 1000 km

• Up of the page up there ^

#8 Alexsey

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The other day I went to a store where I bought Motul oil, they took out a thick folder with certificates and showed me a certificate for this oil. With peace of mind, I poured Motul into the gearbox and engine, respectively. Imagine my surprise when, after half an hour of driving, the scooter increased in dynamics, the overtones from the engine disappeared, as if it was choking and... stopped stalling! And I sinned on gasoline, I thought I was already going to flush the carb. PPC. I didn't realize that so much depends on the oil. Now the engine runs smoothly, accelerates faster, and does not stall. In a word, class!

The only problem so far is with the fork; one of the motorcycle shops is promising to bring Taiwanese hydraulics for 500 UAH one of these days. I said that if it fits, I'll take it. Do you think for that kind of money it could be Taiwan or China?? How to distinguish, maybe someone knows, visually?

• Any scooter owner needs to understand what kind of oil is recommended to use in their small-displacement engine and exactly how much oil should be filled in for the engine to operate efficiently in any weather. The average is 1-2 liters, but a lot depends on the specific type of scooter and its brand. For a more accurate understanding, the owner should read a book on servicing his scooter or select a model on the website and read the instructions.
• In a situation where the document cannot be found, it is better to take the advice of repairmen.
• The amount of liquid itself that you fill during replacement is on average about 1-2 liters. Experienced specialists or owners of small motorcycles will tell you a more accurate parameter. But at the beginning of use it is recommended to fill in about 1.5 liters.

• After replacing the lubricant, the engine should be warmed up - to do this, start it and leave it for 15 minutes, then measure the amount of lubricant.
• All measurements should be carried out using a special device - a probe.
• It is also recommended to take into account that the amount of lubricant poured into a scooter or any other small motorcycle should be greater than the maximum value.
• You need to buy 3-4 liters of oil for a scooter, which will make it possible to add additional lubricating fluid if necessary.

Posts 1 page 13 of 13

Share1Tuesday, July 9, 2013 16:29

• Author: Denis2604_96
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I decided to change the oil in the gearbox, but I don’t know how. tell, show, explain. thanks in advance

Share2Tuesday, July 9, 2013 16:59

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You unscrew the drain bolt from the dio, they are also a large filler bolt, we tilt the engine to this side and drain it, wait. So we fill in the new transmission, tilting it steeply to the other side

Share3Tuesday, July 9, 2013 17:32

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you ride a moped for about twenty minutes so that all the shit rises out of the gearbox. unscrew the drain bolt (at the rear of the engine, where the engine number is indicated, just below). if it is a dio, then you need to pour 90 ml of transmission oil. After you unscrew the bolt, do not lose the sealing washer under the bolt. Next the Kama Sutra will begin). tilt the moped towards the open drain hole, place the container, and wait for it to drain. fill in new oil, tighten the bolt and washer back. Be careful, don't pull too hard, or you'll pull the thread.

Share4Tuesday, July 9, 2013 17:37

• Author: Denis2604_96
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In the photo I circled the bolt in red. it turns out to be a drain. How far to tilt the moped to drain the oil. fill until melted or 90-95 ml??

Changing the scooter gearbox oil

A gearbox is a mechanism for reducing the speed of the driven shaft in order to increase torque. Simply put, it converts high clutch shaft RPMs into low (but powerful) wheel RPMs. The gearbox consists of several gears and bearings. All its parts are in constant rotation when driving and are under very serious load.

Therefore, the key to long-term performance of the gearbox is good care of it. Fortunately, maintenance is very simple: you need to change the oil in the gearbox in a timely manner. I believe that the oil should be changed once a year or every 2 thousand km.

In order to change the oil in the scooter gearbox, we will need the following tools:

• container for draining old oil
• key for 10
• a syringe or, at worst, a funnel
• transmission oil

What to fill the gearbox with?

There are three options.

1. There is a special Motul Scooter Gear gear oil. That's what I used at first. The disadvantages of this oil are as follows: the tube has a volume of 150 ml, while in my scooter the gearbox requires 90 ml, that is, one tube is one and a half refills, neither this nor that. And it is inexplicably expensive (about 250 rubles). The only plus: the convenient tube spout.

However, you can use any other automotive gear oil with a viscosity of 80W-90 or 75W-90. For the same money you can buy a liter of “non-scooter” oil, and it will work exactly the same.

2. Since the scooter gearbox does not contain hypoid gears, any motor oil with a viscosity of 10W-30 can be used as transmission oil. Motor oil is even preferable if the scooter is used in the off-season at temperatures below +7 ° C, because it is more liquid.

3. And finally, the most optimal option, in my opinion, is oil for automatic transmissions (ATF), that is, ATF transmission fluid. This oil has the best fluidity (which is especially important at low temperatures, although this is not so important on a scooter), it perfectly protects gears, and has a reduced tendency to foam. Oh yes, it also has a beautiful red color :). The price range for ATF is from 170 to 700 rubles per liter, and for a scooter you can take the cheapest one.

How to drain old oil

First of all, the oil should be changed after a trip so that the sediment rises from the bottom. If your scooter is cold, you can rev it up for a few minutes on the spot.

If the scooter has a drain bolt, everything is very simple: put a container under it, unscrew it, drain the oil, tighten it.

Honda Dio Review by Alan

I've been wanting to write my Honda Dio review for a long time, but I didn't have time to take good photos. Even now I have nothing more than the thought of writing a review and then getting a few clicks. To start, I thought about why I hadn't seen too many reviews of automatic scooters on BikeAdvice and realized it could be due to two reasons.

It could be that they are scooters and therefore reviews can't be posted on a bike site. Another could be that scooter riders aren't passionate enough to write reviews of their cars. Whatever the reason, I thought about taking the plunge and writing a review and leaving the rest for Deepak to decide if he should publish it.

There has always been at least 1 gearless scooter in our house since 1986. After the first two kinetic Hondas, we bought the Activa when it was launched in 2000. It was a completely different experience than KiHo. After a few years it was time for me to work in Bangalore, I moved the Activa here and used it for a few months before I started having problems and decided to change it.

At that time, although Activa was still top of the list, I decided to go for Dio as I was tired of Jane's simple views. I bought my first Dio in October 2008 when Honda made cosmetic changes to the Dio which included all black wheels and I think introduced a light pink color. Please don't jump to conclusions, I had a luxury blue "motor scooter".

Unfortunately, my scooter was stolen from my house in March 2009. Since I couldn't live without a car in a city like Bangalore, I immediately filed a police complaint and booked my second Honda Dio (blue color again). It was a painful 3 months after the police and the insurance company got a claim on my money. But it finally happened.

So far, the story has been about how I came to own the Dio I currently have. It's been 2.5 years since I got this scooter and here I will write about the pros and cons of owning a gearless scooter in a city like Bangalore.

pros

• In a city with traffic jams, riding a gearless scooter is the easiest way to get to work. You don't have to worry about changing gears in slow moving traffic.
• The amount of luggage you can load on the Dio (and other similar scooters) is quite comparable to the storage available in the trunk (or trunk capacity) of hatchbacks. This cannot be done on any motorcycle. My wife and I's trips to Star Bazaar amaze us when we return home with so many huge bags of groceries.
• In the looks department, I find Dio to be the best looking among all other similar products offered in the market. I disagree with the article “5 Most Beautiful Scooters in India” published in June this year, in which Dio was ranked 5th. The green and purple colors of parrots available nowadays (though not to everyone's taste) are unique and a big hit in Goa.
• I have a front glove box installed so I can always keep my raincoat handy. The glove box is optional.

Minuses

• The Dio having a fiber body will be a disadvantage for people who want a scooter with an all-metal body. But it helps to increase the mileage from Diocompated to Activa.
• Mileage, while nothing to brag about, is decent - around 38 kmpl in city driving conditions with the rear seat 90% of the time.
• Since this is a Honda, the service center is too busy and currently cannot return the scooter on the same day, even if it is the first bike taken in for service that day.
• The pole sitting position is quite uncomfortable. Footrests that cannot be folded make it difficult for passengers to find them. Although the seat is uncomfortable, it reduces the width of the bike and thus makes it easier to squeeze in during traffic jams.
• If you decide to buy Dio, it has a waiting period of 2-3 months in Bangalore.

Acceptable oils for Honda

In the absence of the original, the automaker recommends Exxon-Mobil oil, namely Mobil 1, since its balanced composition can provide reliable protection and exceptional performance.

Although there are a huge number of well-known oil manufacturers on the market:

• Castrol,
• Texaco
• Shell,
• Chevron
• Liqui Moly.

Please note that studies have revealed that even the economical representative of Exxon-Mobil, ESSO oil, does not stand out consistently in a Honda engine, and oils from Castrol and Shell brands actually have the maximum amount of undesirable impurities.

Oils produced by Eneos and Chevron have a minimal amount of soot, but this is still not a panacea, since varnish deposits remain in the engine.

Oils from Korea - ZIC and Dragon - behave more resistant in terms of soot, varnish and sludge, however, resistance to the aging process is extremely insufficient. Based on the test results, the oils from the German company Liqui Moly have proven themselves to be excellent.

The use of oils from domestic manufacturers is inappropriate (absolute incompatibility with Honda engines).

Qualitative indicators

The main technical characteristics of the Honda Dio are presented using the example of the AF 27 model:

The entire range of Dio scooters has almost the same load capacity, speed, starting, two-stroke engine and suspension. Brakes may vary - some models have disc brakes on 1 or 2 wheels.

Test Drive

The Honda Dio scooter is undoubtedly endowed with considerable benefits and amenities that come in handy, especially for newly converted scooter riders. The main advantages of this vehicle include:

• speed allows you to be universal for any road;
• quite rigid frame;
• light weight, handling and excellent dynamics save the rider from unforeseen surprises;
• wear-resistant engine;
• ratio of quality and cost;
• perfect plastic, perfectly fitted at the joints;
• there is a 2nd passenger seat;
• dimensions;
• convenient trunk hidden under the seat;
• luggage hook;
• pocket immediately under the steering wheel;
• trendy design and streamlined shapes;

Photo of Honda Dio AF 34CESTA

More serious representatives, such as Dio AF 34 and 35 ZX, have the capabilities to participate in racing, and the memorable appearance will not leave any true connoisseur of motorcycle technology indifferent.

Models are found in restyling, in ABS modifications, which adds extra gas shock absorbers, crystal optics, a powerful engine and alloy wheels. Some are equipped with front baskets.

The AF 35 ZX model is amazingly good - this white beauty is simply mesmerizing during sharp starting jerks from traffic lights.

We detect inconveniences

Any thing in use by humanity is, as a rule, imperfect. Honda Dio scooters also have some disadvantages:

• due to high demand, difficulty in purchasing;
• not suitable for winter trips;
• rather expensive service station;
• low ground clearance (between the road and the frame);
• fans of scooter racing are not satisfied with the speed offered;

Repair instructions for Honda Dio

Tips for repairing Honda Dio are available to any motorcycle enthusiast. In particular, we will talk about servicing the vital parts of an iron car: engine, carburetor and transmission.

The carburetor is a sensitive and important part of the scooter. The slightest breakdown will stop the operation of the entire machine. Owners are often afraid to touch carburetors because they are not confident that they can assemble them correctly.

However, everything is not as scary as it seems at first glance. Honda Dio is recognized by experts as the most convenient and suitable representative for disassembling and cleaning the carburetor.

The fact that it is not covered with plastic, its location above the transmission and the ease of setting up the mechanism speak in its favor.

A few recommendations:

• the adjustment process is carried out on a well-warmed engine;
• if there is any doubt about a blockage, clean the carburetor and rinse thoroughly;

The setting itself involves adjustment:

1. idle move;
2. quality of the mixture (by moving the needle and using;
3. specialized screw;
4. amount of fuel in the float chamber;

Honda Dio engine repair

The engine is the heart of the scooter. Principles for eliminating basic breakdowns:

1. piston wear and increasing fuel and lubricant consumption are caused by low compression (below 8.0 kg/cm3 with a norm of 9.5-10.5); it is necessary to bore or change the cylinder-piston group;
2. a clear and loud knocking sound at the bottom of the cylinder, often when throttling, indicates wear of the piston skirt—replace the piston or the entire c/p group;
3. the engine stalls, losing power, usually when it is clogged - cleaning is required: burn it, or cut it, clean off the carbon deposits and weld again; the exhaust window can be cleaned;
4. does not start, does not work well, does not hold idle speed if the seals are broken (fuel leaks form there) of the cylinder, crankcase, head gasket, crankshaft seals are worn out - replace the seals and gaskets;

The transmission also becomes unusable, and, sooner or later, it is replaced. The process of replacing the variator is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to choose the right belt - this will allow you to keep its settings unchanged. For example, a very long belt will begin to slip, and a wide one will reduce the range of gear ratios and will not reach the maximum width of the cones.

Recommended variant belt sizes

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Lubricants for scooter powertrain

Scooter engines, which originally had only a two-stroke design, in modern cars have invariant operating principles. Mobile urban transport is increasingly equipped with four-stroke engines, especially for vehicles manufactured in China.

The principle of lubrication of the bearing supports of the crankshaft and the cylinder-piston group, as is known, is fundamentally different in engines with two and four strokes. Accordingly, there are significant differences in the oils that should be used.

A closed system for lubrication of the rubbing elements of a four-stroke engine involves the use of lubricants whose physical and technical properties ensure a long service life without loss of their basic properties. In scooters with two-stroke engines, on the contrary, good performance results are provided by oils that can burn in the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine without the formation of excess amounts of soot components. The combustion of oil, among other things, should not be accompanied by excessive smoke.

Lubrication of four-stroke engines

The first and most important caveat regarding lubrication for four-stroke engines may sound trivial: motor oil for a scooter should be used that is recommended by the engine manufacturer. There is one important nuance in this truism: very common Chinese-made cars are equipped with engines whose manufacturers are located far beyond the borders of the Middle Kingdom.

There are motors that were discontinued in Japan or the USA 10–15 years ago, Korean-made power plants, and others. It seems difficult to find exotic products from ten years ago in the constantly updated range of lubricants. The question naturally arises - what kind of oil to pour into a scooter whose engine is recommended to have a lubricant that no longer exists.

In such cases, a simple rule of thumb follows. The oil must ensure the creation of a reliable separating film under the conditions that accompany the operation of the power plant. Conditions include:

• ambient temperature;
• the degree of constant load on the unit;
• resource of an internal combustion engine.

Scooters are used mainly in the warm season. Accordingly, the viscosity that the lubricant being poured must have must ensure that its properties are maintained exclusively at positive or slightly negative outside temperatures. According to the SAE classification, these classes include oils of the 5W30, 10W40 and 10W50 classes. These are the lubricants that are recommended for use in four-stroke scooter engines by major manufacturers and experienced users.

Lubrication of two-stroke internal combustion engines

Scooter two-stroke powerplants can be lubricated in two ways. One of the methods is lubrication, traditional for most engines of this type, with oil initially dissolved in gasoline.

Types of oils by basics

Mineral

Mineral motor oils for small-capacity motorcycles are ineffective due to increased carbon formation and rapid aging. Since the volume of product poured into scooter engines is small, it will have to be replaced frequently. To ensure sufficient protective properties, an increased volume of additives must be introduced into the composition of mineral oil.

For two-stroke engines, mineral oils are the least applicable, as they burn with high smoke and abundant soot formation. Because of this, the engine and exhaust system have to be cleaned regularly, and savings on oil are offset by the complexity of maintenance.

Semi-synthetic

Oils that compromise in terms of price-quality ratio combine a mineral base with the addition of synthetic components. They can be used in most scooter engines, with the exception of the most forced ones.

In four-stroke engines, such oils provide high-quality splash lubrication and well protect loaded friction pairs. In two-stroke engines, switching from mineral to semi-synthetic oil not only increases the service life, but also makes it much less likely to disassemble the engine to remove carbon deposits.

Synthetic

The highest quality oils suitable for use in the most complex and powerful scooter engines. Due to their high thermal stability, they work well in air-cooled motors. The ability to control the composition and properties of the synthetic base directly at the stage of its production makes it possible to create low-smoke two-stroke oils that form a minimum of soot.

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Comments 3

“the woman didn’t have a hustle and the woman bought a pig,” but on the other hand, if a person likes to “tighten nuts” (someone generally collects stamps or just drinks), then it’s quite a normal activity in his free time from his main job. ps I have this problem The spark plugs had red soot when we had 95 at gas stations using additives. 5-10 t.km. and a furry animal came to visit the platinum candles, the candles cost $60 for a set (four pieces) and/or $180 for two coils if you flapping your ears. So until 2014 (until I bought a Nissan) I drove 92. The spark plugs on the Nyuska cost like a bucket and I decided to try filling in 95, it turned out that now they don’t burn. I refuel both in Belarus and in the Russian Federation only with Lukoil.

here there are only 92, I only fill up at good gas stations, there will be a recording ahead of what happened to the new spark plug after 400 km... you'll see))))