Generator for scooters from Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean manufacturers

Scooter generator. Operating principle and diagnostics

The scooter's generator is a key component of the entire electrical system of the scooter, because it is it that generates the electricity necessary for its operation.
Modern scooters are equipped with many different devices and components that consume electricity. Thus, the scooter’s generator ensures the operation of the headlights, ignition system, dimensions, etc. In addition, the scooter's generator also charges the battery, which in turn powers the electric starter when starting the engine. The principle of operation of a scooter generator is extremely simple; at its core, it is the most ordinary Magdino with a flywheel. Magdino (magneto plus dynamo machine) differs from a simple magneto in that it has two windings installed on it, which differ in voltage, while a magneto has only one winding installed. Installing two windings instead of one significantly reduces the load on the system and thereby increases its reliability and service life. So the high-voltage winding generates electricity, which is used to operate the scooter’s ignition system, while the low-voltage winding, which is also often called an inductance coil or a “light” coil, ensures the operation of headlights, dimensions, battery charging, etc. The voltage of the coil depends on the number of turns in the winding; the more turns, the higher the voltage.

The generation of electricity itself occurs due to electromagnetic induction. The crankshaft rotates a flywheel with permanent magnets around the coils, as a result of which the magnetic field inside the windings changes all the time and thus the required voltage is inducted. Interestingly, since the scooter's generator is a magdino, the magnetic armatures around the ignition winding and the light winding can even rotate at different speeds. Around the ignition coil directly on the crankshaft, and around the light coil through a special gear “raise”.

As you might have guessed, a scooter's generator can only produce alternating current. While many devices require direct current to operate. In particular, the battery can only be charged from constant voltage.

In short, direct current is a simple directional flow of electrons that moves from one pole to the other, while in alternating current the electrons constantly change direction. In order to convert alternating current into direct current, special diode rectifiers are used on the scooter. Roughly speaking, a diode allows electrons to flow in only one direction, thus converting alternating current into direct current. Thanks to diode rectifiers, a scooter generator can power any device, regardless of what type of current the device needs.

Since the voltage supplied by the scooter generator varies depending on the crankshaft speed, for the normal operation of all devices and components of the scooter, a voltage regulator is needed. As a rule, this unit is combined with a diode rectifier. But on older scooters and mopeds, a separate relay may be used as a voltage regulator. Typically, a scooter's generator produces excess voltage, both at low and high speeds, which must be “cut off”, otherwise all the electrical appliances on the scooter can very easily burn out. The scooter's generator produces voltage, as if with a reserve, so that it is definitely enough for the normal functioning of the entire electrical system of the scooter. However, it should be understood that when installing some new equipment on a scooter or, for example, replacing a standard headlight with a more powerful one, the voltage generated by the scooter's generator may not be sufficient for the normal operation of the new device. In this case, you should either refuse to install new equipment at all, or sacrifice something else, if possible. You can also try installing a more powerful scooter generator, with more turns.

How to diagnose a scooter generator

As mentioned above, the scooter generator provides the robot with almost all systems of the scooter, since every node is tied to it in one way or another. Fortunately, the scooter generator is an extremely simple device and therefore breaks down quite rarely. But because of this, many both beginners and experienced scooter riders, when it breaks down, almost never check the condition of the scooter’s generator and look for faults only in what they consider to be vulnerable components: spark plugs, battery and wiring. Having not found a problem there, such scooter riders often throw up their hands and never think to check the scooter’s generator.

However, it should be said right away that in order to properly check a scooter’s generator, you need to have at least a little understanding of electronics, understand the essence of such concepts as “voltage” and “resistance,” and also be able to use a multimeter (tester) at least a little. If you have these necessary skills, then performing a diagnosis will not be so difficult.

First, you should understand what problems can arise with the generator. And there are only three possible breakdowns: wire breakage or burnout, loss of magnetic properties of the magnets on the flywheel, and short circuit.

The magnetism of the rotor can drop as a result of a strong impact or fall (permanent magnets lose their magnetic qualities under strong physical impact), as well as when left for a long time near a source of a strong magnetic field. In addition, permanent magnets lose their properties simply from old age. The loss of magnetization leads to a significant decrease in the output voltage produced by the scooter's generator. Checking the output voltage is very simple, just disconnect the scooter's generator from the rest of the electronics by removing the connectors, and measure with the engine running; connect a tester instead of the connectors. At minimum speed, the voltage should not be less than 5 Volts.

After checking the voltage, you should also remember to check the resistance of the circuit that powers the generator winding. For most scooter models, the normal alternator coil resistance value is in the range from 80 to 150 Ohms. If the resistance is below normal, then this indicates that the turns are most likely shorted on the winding. This will lead to overheating of the coil and a drop in voltage, so when the circuit is closed, only part of the winding remains involved in generating current. In principle, this is all that can be checked without dismantling the scooter's generator. If the indicators do not correspond to the norm, then dress up and undergo a deeper check. So the scooter generator will have to be removed and the coil itself checked directly with a tester. If it turns out that its resistance is within normal limits, then it is most likely that the problem is in the wiring or at the junction of the coil and the wiring. If checking the wiring does not reveal any problems and the scooter’s generator is fully operational, then there is a ninety percent chance that the problem is in the ignition unit. Which is not the topic of this article.

Source

Signs that a check is needed

If the battery on your scooter often runs out, and it is still quite new, this means that there is a problem with the operation of the relay regulator. As practice shows, it burns out quite often. If the device is faulty, the battery stops charging completely and loses its capacity. This means you won’t be able to start the scooter with a button; you’ll have to start it with a kickstarter.

Another characteristic sign of incorrect operation of the device may be the frequent burnout of incandescent light bulbs. They themselves are durable and have a good durability, but are quite sensitive to voltage changes. This happens because the optimal voltage in the scooter network is considered to be 12-13 V. Increasing this value even by 2 V reduces the service life of electronics and components by 2 times.

The greater the deviation from the norm, the greater the likelihood that something will burn out in the scooter. Therefore, when starting the scooter from the starter due to a power surge and a faulty relay, the bulbs usually burn out.

Signs of a malfunctioning regulator are identical for all models of Chinese scooters. They are especially typical for charging relays for scooters of Chinese models with an engine capacity of 50 cc. Therefore, before making a decision to replace something in electronics, testing systems and devices should begin with the relay regulator.

Read more: Replacing spark plugs for Nissan Maxima

Alfa moped wiring diagram: features of domestic operation

With the development of trade relations between Russia and China, in addition to traditional knitted goods and consumer electronics, various auto and motorcycle equipment began to be imported en masse to our country. And since the domestic motorcycle industry was experiencing a decline, the new items were to the taste of motorcyclists and began to be purchased en masse for their own needs.

Of particular interest is the ALPHA moped with an air-cooled engine, which is sold in the Russian Federation as “Alpha 110cc” or “Alpha 49”. The numbers in the name indicate the engine displacement:

1. 49 cc four-stroke air-cooled engine. cm, power 4.5 hp;
2. 110 cc four-stroke air-cooled engine. cm, power 7 hp.

Mopeds, due to their external resemblance to motorcycles, differ from scooters, although they represent a separate class. However, the combination of technical parameters, ease of do-it-yourself maintenance and low operating cost have made this moped a sales leader on the Russian motorcycle market.

Appearance of Alpha RX

Alpha RX is an updated version of the previous classic moped. The new moped has become more interesting and elegant in appearance. The exterior has a modern look which I liked. The tank has been updated, a two-level seat has been installed - the passenger is now slightly higher than the driver. The passenger's visibility is now better. The wings are now made of plastic, but only the front wing is painted. This already saves the wings from corrosion.

The headlight became larger than that of the classic Alpha, a serious halogen lamp was installed, and the light became brighter. The rear shock absorbers have become more advanced in shape. The motorcycle is also equipped with serious lighting equipment - front and rear lights, turn signals with sound, high and low beams, a signal and a brake light.

Very easy to use. Repair is possible with a minimum set of tools, but you will have to stock up on additional open-end wrenches: 9, 11 and 15.

It comes in two versions for sale: with a 72 cc and 110 cc engine. But lately they have been supplied partially unserviceable with a 50cc piston that will need to be upgraded. These versions of the models are called Alpha 7 and Alpha 11.

These numbers are deciphered as follows:

• 7 is an Alpha, which after modification will become a 72 cc model.
• 11 is the Alpha, which will become a 110 cc model.

Initially, these models cost like “fifty dollars” and they will not be able to drive. In any case, they will have to be modified. But according to the documents, they are like mopeds with 49.9 cubic meters and there is no need to register them with the traffic police. The only thing you need is a driver's license of any category.

Starting current coefficient

There is another important nuance that must be taken into account - the inrush current coefficient. When most electrical appliances start up, their power consumption increases for the first few milliseconds. For example, a standard 800 W microwave oven has a starting current coefficient of 2, so in the first second its energy consumption will be 1600 W. In most cases, these coefficients are distributed as follows:

• All heating electrical appliances that no longer perform any functions (electric kettles, boilers, incandescent lamps, irons, heaters, etc.) have a coefficient of 1, that is, they do not consume more energy at the time of startup;
• TVs, computers, laptops and similar equipment have a minimum inrush current coefficient of 1.1.
• Most power tools (jigsaws, drills, screwdrivers, grinders, industrial hair dryers and similar devices) operate with a coefficient of 1.3-1.4.
• The highest coefficient (3-4) is for refrigerators, concrete mixers, vacuum cleaners, water pumps and air conditioners.

Thus, you can calculate that if, during a power outage, 3 incandescent lamps of 100 W each are on in your home, a computer is running at 400 W, a refrigerator at 600 W, and you decide to clean with a vacuum cleaner at 1800 W (starting current coefficient 2.5) then you need a diesel - a 5.8 kW generator or gas generator, while it is advisable to leave some reserve and install a 7 kW power plant. If you try to perform these operations with an electric generator whose power is 4 kW, unwanted overloads will occur and the protection system will work. Therefore, calculating the optimal performance of a home station is of great importance.

FAQ, Questions, Answers, Reviews

• We provide a guarantee on services provided from 6 to 9 months, depending on the type of equipment
• The cost of our services is fixed and always corresponds to that stated on our website.
• We support our clients by providing free consultations when contacting us.
• We guarantee that problems will be resolved as quickly as possible (1-4 days)
• We have been professionally repairing motorcycle generators since 1998 and we know everything about it!
• We value every client and value our reputation

• At Generator-Pro24, you can rewind your generator stator or exchange a burnt-out generator for a working one on the same day of contact, without waiting for repairs, using the “Stator Exchange”
• If we do not have a generator stator of the required model in stock, we will offer to repair your stator as soon as possible ( 1-4 days )

• First you need to contact us in any way available to you from those listed on our website.
• Decide which of the two directions and on what day it will be convenient for you to bring your burnt generator stator (see Contacts section) for its subsequent exchange or repair
• We do not have a courier service

Absolutely reliable if such repairs are performed by professionals. In addition, this is justified from an economic point of view, and in some cases, it is the only possible solution. The guarantee for work performed that you will receive from Generator-Pro24 is unconditional and absolute.

Fuse box in the trunk of a car

Preparatory procedures

Where should you start first? Check all electrical connections on your scooter. Most of them can be found in the battery compartment. Make sure they are all tightly connected to each other. At this time, your scooter's battery pack will automatically check the main and individual battery connections. Bundles of wires should not hang freely.

Usually the battery compartment on a scooter is located at the bottom of the floor

Scooter engine initial test

Test the generator by making a direct connection to the battery. You will need to find an insulated wire to perform this procedure and cut 2 pieces approximately 20cm long.

1. Raise the scooter so that the rear wheel does not touch the ground.
2. Remove the battery cover and locate the 2 wires that come from the engine. Disconnect the motor wires from the controller - this is easy to do by unfastening the clamps.

Using 2 wires, attach the first jumper wire to the red positive wire inside the motor wire clamp. Do the same with the black negative wire coming from the engine. Then take the red wire and make contact with the positive terminal of the battery and do the same with the black wire at the negative terminal.

• If the engine starts and the rear wheel rotates, the generator is fully operational. If the rear wheel does not rotate, then the problem is in the engine.

Air conditioning compressor from Chrysler

Around this time, I came across a refrigeration compressor and it turned out to be ideal as the basis for the engine I had planned. It was a Chrysler RV-2 automatic air conditioning compressor. The crank moved the pistons 90 degrees (V-twin design), with a 58.7mm bore and 33.4mm stroke.

In both cylinders, combined with the correct gas path, the displacement was 127.8 cc, which is more than double the volume compared to the Philips MP1002C engine. Being a refrigeration compressor, the design was made thoroughly and with sufficient margin of safety for such strong compression. In addition, this compressor contained a gerotor oil pump, which under pressure lubricated the edges of the large connecting rod bearings. Each aluminum piston had one compression ring and was connected through Alcoa aluminum connecting rods. This compressor turned out to be the most optimal for my idea.

Air conditioning compressor Chrysler RV-2

Years of development

Over the course of several years, I have designed and developed all the necessary components in order to adapt the compressor to work in a Stirling engine. I also designed a tubular support frame to support the engine. The frame is styled to resemble that used on a Philips generator set.

The heater head, displacer and inner cylinder are made of stainless steel 302 pipes of various sizes. I used a coil of copper wire as a regenerator. The cooler, located on the compression side of the engine, was made of aluminum tubes. Used a small 200 watt 12 volt belt driven generator that was originally purchased and intended to run on a garden tractor.

Here is this engine, called SV-2 MK I (Stirling V-2 Mark I):

Generator based on the Stirling engine SV-2 MK I (Stirling V-2 Mark 1)

Checking the ignition coil

Disconnect the battery and remove the beak on the scooter. We disconnect the connector on the switch and measure the resistance on the coil with a meter. We put one probe in the connector on the black wire, and the second on the negative (green wire). There should be 4 ohms - this means that the wiring and the primary winding of the coil are working properly.

We check the second winding of the coil. We take out the probe from the contact of the green wire and insert it into the candlestick instead of the candle. And we leave the other probe on the contact of the h/w wire. The resistance should be about 7.85 kOhm. This indicates that the second winding, the armored wire and the candlestick itself are in good working order.

And if the device shows a break (i.e. does not react at all), then remove and check the candlestick and armored wire separately. If they ring, it means a break has occurred in the ignition coil. It cannot be repaired, it is solid, you will have to replace it with a new one. It's inexpensive and you can always buy it without any problems.

How to ring a generator

How to ring a generator

05 Dec 2011, 14:28

Re: How to ring a generator

05 Dec 2011, 17:44

Re: How to ring a generator

06 Dec 2011, 14:15

Re: How to ring a generator

06 Dec 2011, 17:33

Re: How to ring a generator

07 Dec 2011, 09:03

Re: How to ring a generator

08 Dec 2011, 22:22

Re: How to ring a generator

14 Dec 2011, 07:54

Re: How to ring a generator

14 Dec 2011, 20:25

Between which two wires are you measuring? download/file.php?id=643&mode=view Here is the diagram, measure black-red and black. Resistance with the engine stopped, voltage in AC mode when the crankshaft rotates (best of all, with a kickstarter - one turns, the other watches). The CDI is more likely to die than the alternator. If the measurement is after the diode, then you can measure in constant mode.

Re: How to ring a generator

16 Dec 2011, 06:33

here from the MOTO.com.ua forum

I’ll describe how to check everything without disassembling the moped. We remove the switch chip and take a tester, put one ohm probe to ground and poke the other into the connector: 1. the red wire (power coil) should show about 300 ohms. 2. yellow (woman) a couple of ohms. The main thing is that it rings. 3. blue (spark sensor) about 150 ohms, it seems. 4.green (mass) clear Oom. 5. black (silencer) 0 ohm. when the ignition is off, when the ignition is on, open circuit (infinity). The accuracy of the readings is not important, the main thing is not an open or short circuit, but where such a discrepancy is observed along that wire and we go to the culprit. The third is not given, but if there is a spark, then there is no, here you can search for a long time: 15_badgrin: One homosapies’ moped stalled for no reason at all: 27_dash: if you start poking around, it will start and even chop it with an ax : 15_badgrin: . The droplets gave me an idea corrosion on the engine. Electrolyte dripped from the battery and got into the gene chip, under the cambrics it rotted.

Scooter generator inspection

Remove the generator base plate or cover and try to locate any burnt or melted wires, wire connectors, or electrical components. Also look for loose, disconnected or damaged wires or wire connectors. Pull and push on all individual wires and wire connectors to ensure they are not loose.

Sniff the engine speed control to make sure there is no burning smell. Any components that appear burnt or melted, or have a distinctive odor similar to burnt plastic, are almost always defective and should be replaced. Engines that smell burning should be replaced to prevent damage to the speed controller. Burnt or melted wires or wire connectors indicate overheating of the motor, which can cause the plastic insulation to melt the motors' electromagnetic copper wire windings.

If the insulation melts from the copper windings, a short circuit will occur, which will lead to complete breakdown of the generator. A short circuit can also burn out the speed controller by giving it too much resistance, causing it to work too hard to the point of overheating.

Generator faults

1. The generator generates current at a very low voltage.
2. The generator has stopped producing electricity.
3. The dashboard lamp indicates a generator breakdown.
4. The generator generates current above the optimal rate.
5. Extraneous noise arose when the generator was operating.

Before you begin repairing the generator, check the condition of the generator drive belt for wear and belt tension (the check is carried out by pressing on it, the belt should not bend more than 2 mm). If the belt is not very worn, the tension can be corrected by tightening it a little. Check the tension roller of the generator; it should turn easily and not make unnecessary sounds (if the roller does not scroll well and makes unnecessary sounds, it should be replaced). Then you should remove and disassemble the generator to check the technical condition of the generator.

Generator diagnostics

In the future, you will need the following measuring instruments to check the technical condition of the generator :

• ammeter;
• voltmeter;
• rheostat.

The rotation speed of the generator rotor can tell us a lot, which we can check using the tachometer on the instrument panel. Normal tachometer readings with a working generator should be in the range from 2000 to 5000 rpm.

Causes of generator malfunction and repair, possible causes of generator failure:

If during testing you find that the generator does not produce a charge, this may be due to the following reasons:

1. Contacts or fuse are burnt out.
2. Damage or wear of the generator brushes.
3. Regulator relay malfunction.
4. A break in the stator or rotor circuit due to a short circuit in the winding.

Elimination of the above listed generator malfunctions is solved by replacing worn parts.

How to remove and disassemble the generator. Do-it-yourself generator disassembly.

1. Remove the brush holder with the voltage regulator, having first unscrewed all the fasteners.
2. Remove the tension bolts and the cover with the stator.
3. Disconnect the phase windings from the output wires of the rectifier unit, and then remove the cover from the stator.
4. Remove the pulley from the generator shaft and the front cover using a puller.

Generator repair

If the generator winding is shorted or the winding is broken, it is necessary to replace the wires with new ones. Usually the winding breaks in close proximity to the slip rings. Pay attention to the ends of the winding to see if any desoldering has occurred. To eliminate this malfunction, it is enough to unwind the turn in the area of ​​the break back from the rotor winding. Remove the broken end of the winding from the slip ring and solder the unwound wire.

If you find that the alternator is generating a weak or excessive charge , this is a sign of a bad alternator relay. The breakdown can be eliminated by replacing the generator relay. If the generator is working properly and the light is blinking, this indicates a breakdown of the light bulb power diode in the indicator. Such a breakdown can be eliminated by replacing the diode in the generator.

Extraneous noises during generator operation indicate wear of the rotor bearing. The generator should be disassembled, the bearing removed, and inspected for defects. If the alternator bearing is worn, replace it.

To assemble the generator, carry out all steps in the reverse order. You can repair the generator yourself, in your garage, the main thing is to follow safety precautions, be careful with electrical appliances, carefully remember the sequence of disassembling the generator, so as not to sit for a long time on its assembly.

Generator device VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110

1 – “negative” brush; 2 – brush holder; 3 – “positive” brush; 4 – neutral wire plug block; 5 – insulating bushings of the contact bolt; 6 – rectifier block; 7 – contact bolt; 8 – stator; 9 – rotor; 10 – inner bearing mounting washer; 11 – drive side cover; 12 – fan assembly with pulley; 13 – outer bearing mounting washer; 14 – front rotor bearing; 15 – spacer ring; 16 – coupling bolt; 17 – clamping sleeve; 18 – cover from the side of the slip rings; 19 – buffer sleeve; 20 – bushing

Travel rules

The moped is popular not only because of its budget. Another advantage is that you can ride a moped without having a license and without undergoing a technical inspection. At the same time, no one exempts the moped driver from knowing the rules of the road. A moped is considered more like a bicycle than a motorcycle. Therefore, the moped should not move in the general flow of cars, but as close as possible to the right edge of the road or along a bicycle path.

With a scooter things are a little different. A scooter is a type of motorcycle. Today, a law is being developed to revise the age limits for driving a scooter, as well as compulsory acquisition of a license.

What generator voltage is considered normal?

To check the generator voltage, you need to start the engine and turn off the entire load. In this case, the multimeter should show 14.3 -15.5 Volts (see video at the end of the article). A deviation of 0.1 Volt in one direction or the other is allowed.

After this, it is necessary to connect consumers one by one and check the generator voltage.

Ideally, it should “drop” by about 0.2 Volts when you turn on each new load. In this case, the total U should not fall below the level of 12.8 Volts. Otherwise, the battery will be discharged.

Setting up and testing the scooter

Check the power interrupt switch. This safety feature "interrupts" engine power when you apply the brakes. If your scooter does not work after adjusting the brakes, then the problem lies in this unit.

Adjustment procedures may vary depending on the scooter model. You can usually loosen the brake adjustment tension by turning the brake adjuster built into the handle toward the lever. This releases the tension on the adjustment and safety switch. Check the owner's manual or contact the motor manufacturer.

If this setup doesn't work, there is an easy way to test the generator. Disconnect it from the controller, then try to start the scooter. If the problem is with the switch, then the scooter will only work when the brake lever switch is disabled. Make sure the power switch is turned on.

Checking the scooter fuse

If the scooter uses a fuse, look at the inside of the fuse to make sure it hasn't blown. The fuse may need to be removed from the scooter and held up to a light source so you can determine whether it is blown or not.

For scooters that use an automatic fuse, press or flip the automatic switch to check its functionality.

Automatic power switch

Perform a test using a multimeter. Sometimes fuses burn out in a hard-to-reach place. Also, circuit breakers can mechanically reset but still not work. Testing the continuity of a fuse or circuit breaker using a multimeter is the best way to determine whether it is working or not.

Also try charging the battery for 8 hours. Electric scooters that have not been charged for more than 3 months will have their batteries partially discharged. Try charging the battery for 8 hours and then see if that helps.

What determines the shelf life of a battery?

Each manufacturer, after manufacturing a battery, sets a warranty period for its operation.

In addition to this parameter, there is an actual period that depends on many factors - timeliness of maintenance, compliance with operating rules, condition of electrical wiring and other points.

Due to the fact that battery maintenance conditions differ, the shelf life of the product also differs.

Car owners who use their car only in the warm season have the longest battery life. It's another matter when you need a car all year round, regardless of the outside temperature.

In such a situation, the battery life is reduced. This is also due to the fact that in the second case the driver can cover more kilometers.

The battery life is also affected by:

• Serviceability and correct operation of the generator and voltage regulator.
• Connecting additional equipment with a large rated current to the vehicle's electrical wiring.
• Operating mode. The batteries that last the least are those in taxis that travel a long distance throughout the year. In addition, such cars operate in frequent engine starting mode, which puts a load on the battery and generator. If the vehicle is actively used, the service life of the power source does not exceed 1.5 years.

Under normal operating conditions, when the car owner regularly checks the battery and carries out maintenance, the battery life is 4-5 years with a total mileage of 60-80 thousand kilometers during this period.

To avoid problems, it is advisable to periodically check the voltage of the generator and battery.

But the mentioned service life is not the highest, because with careful maintenance the battery can last up to eight years.

But you should know that sooner or later the battery will need to be replaced, because from the moment you start using it, the working plates gradually wear out. The more charge and discharge cycles a battery goes through, the faster it breaks down.

Practice shows that the key role is played by the generator, its serviceability and current voltage. That is why this aspect needs to be given key attention.

The role of a generator on a scooter

As you already know, a scooter battery always needs current, constantly, and to provide this, a generator is included in the work, which charges the battery throughout its operation. If the battery does not need to be charged, the generator still works and, if necessary, immediately transfers charge to the device. Even though the power of the generator is several times higher than other scooter devices, if it is necessary to install an additional device, in any case it is necessary to remove some other energy consumer. Let's say you wanted to install another headlight, but to do this you will have to remove the old one, otherwise the generator will not be able to function normally.

Generator circuit for a 150cc scooter

This is the main task and operating principle of such a complex, but at the same time very necessary device. Repairing a scooter generator can be very complicated, so it's best to take this issue to a professional.

How to check the charging relay on a scooter yourself?

A relay regulator, or voltage stabilizer, plays an important role in the operation of modern scooters, the main task of which is to stabilize the voltage. At a moped speed of 60 km per hour, the generator is capable of generating voltage up to 35 Volts, and without its stabilization, this can lead to failure of all the electronics of the moped, including the battery. The article will tell you what a voltage regulator is and how to check it on a scooter.

Four-pin voltage regulator relay for scooter

Supercharging (pressure injection in Stirling)

To obtain significant output power, it is necessary to increase the pressure in the working area of ​​the engine. Knowing that the Philips engine operated at 12 bar (175 psi), I would like to have an engine that was structurally strong and compact to operate at these levels of internal working gas pressure. The working fluid was air, and it was chosen on the basis of practicality. I wanted my generator to be oil-lubricated, just like the Philips Stirling - this feature greatly contributes to the quiet operation and long service life that you really want in a Stirling engine.

Chinese scooter repair: engine

A working mechanism, including any engine, produces noise of varying degrees of volume. A change or increase in the noise level indicates wear of one of the parts inside the structure. All parts have a service life and, depending on the mileage, the quality of gasoline or lubricants, sooner or later they become unusable. If the owner listens to the running engine during idle, acceleration and at maximum speed, he will remember the correct noise, and will immediately recognize if foreign elements are added to it. If there is no experience, when starting to repair a scooter in China with your own hands, a phonendoscope is used to determine the cause of the malfunction. Let's consider the nature of extraneous noise, the reason for its appearance and the place where the part was worn out:

• A knocking sound is heard in the engine when fuel detonates. When the fuel detonates as it burns, this is expressed by the occurrence of a metallic knock due to the heavy load on the cylinder parts. They occur when using low-quality fuel or gasoline with a low octane number, in case of heavy accumulation of carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber and when the engine overheats. It is necessary to carry out diagnostics using available methods, reduce the engine load and replace the fuel with another one with a higher octane number. If the knocking continues, clean the combustion chamber or replace the spark plug. Do not operate the scooter with signs of detonation, this will lead to increased wear and malfunction of the loaded parts.
• The howl of worn main crankshaft bearings. It is difficult to confuse with other noise; the howling appears when you add gas and increases the volume as you continue to use the scooter. If the bearing is not replaced promptly, the balls will spill out of the main part and, mixed with the broken race, enter the crankcase, causing serious damage. Negligence in operation leads to serious damage and the need to carry out expensive repairs of Chinese scooters at a service center.
• Piston pin knock. The knocking sound is heard when the engine warms up at idle speed, and becomes noticeably louder if you turn the throttle sharply. Appears when the surface of the piston pin is worn out, the size of the piston boss holes is increased and the bushing located in the upper part of the connecting rod is worn out. A specialist in the workshop will restore the Chinese scooter (engine repair, identification and replacement of worn parts) as quickly as possible.

Moped maintenance

Like any vehicle, Alpha mopeds require routine maintenance, the essence of which boils down to:

1. Replacement of parts and assemblies whose service life has expired;
2. Setting up and restoring the factory parameters of the main components and assemblies;
3. Visual inspection of the moped to identify damage.

Chinese engines quite confidently “maintain” 20,000 km on our domestic fuels and lubricants without breakdowns or overhaul of the piston group. The main thing is to change the oil in a timely manner, especially during the break-in period.

If you do not operate the moped in harsh conditions (winter, cross-country racing, etc.), then all oil seals and rubber seals will also last a long time.

Service Features

Unfortunately, suppliers of motorcycle equipment do not always take into account the specific features of a particular type of vehicle, assuming that low price is more important. In particular, the majority of mopeds supplied to Russia under the ALPHA brand are not designed for our climatic and road conditions.

This manifests itself in the following:

1. Most mopeds are used off-road (in rural areas, for trips to nature, fishing, etc.). And factory tires, alloy rims, springs and shock absorbers are not designed for such loads;
2. The quality of gasoline and oil is also far from ideal, which affects the performance parameters of the moped;
3. The moped is not intended for operation at sub-zero temperatures.

In the same way as wiring for an Alpha moped, other “diseases” of Alpha mopeds can be cured with the help of replacement. In particular:

1. Factory tires are replaced with more wear-resistant ones;
2. Alloy wheels are replaced by traditional spoked rims;
3. Shock absorbers are reinstalled from domestic motorcycles.

Scooter generator device

Hub engines have no disadvantages. First, they add extra weight to the wheel they power. And because they require additional wiring to deliver power, using wheels and changing tires is difficult. With this in mind, you will need to properly maintain your device.

Hub motor cones come in a variety of designs, and there are differences between designs. The smaller geared motor offers an increased rpm range but less power. Gear-type motors are usually large and heavy, but they provide more torque and power to an electric scooter. They are more efficient than gear motors. However, no matter what the design of the generators is, the principle of their operation is the same, which means the maintenance is the same.

Scooter generator device

Taking care of your electric scooter is key to maximizing the performance and usability of parts and components, especially engine components. If you know what kind of motor your device runs on, this article will help you know how to properly test your scooter electric generator.

Factory puller

The rotor can be removed using either a factory puller or a homemade one. The option with a factory and homemade puller has its pros and cons. I'll start with the disadvantages of the factory puller.

The main disadvantage of a factory puller is its price. A factory puller is very, very expensive. About 500-600 rubles. But price is essentially not a very important criterion for me. Versatility, reliability, ease of use and durability are much more important to me. Unfortunately, the factory puller does not have all these advantages, except perhaps ease of use.

The versatility of the factory puller is zero and, unfortunately, it is only suitable for a certain series of engines. And if you need to repair a scooter that is not widely used in our country, then you will also have to buy a new puller for it. And this will be very, very difficult to do, since tools for rare models of scooters are as rare on sale as spare parts.

The reliability of the factory puller is extremely low. I won’t say that the problem is in the design itself, rather the opposite: the design is more than perfect. And it’s much more perfect. Nut + bolt - that’s all its design.

But the quality... There is something to discuss here. The quality of factory pullers leaves much to be desired. They are enough for literally several times, and I’m talking about expensive pullers for 500-600 rubles.

Cheap ones at 220-250 rubles in terms of quality are completely out of the question. Not only are they made of some kind of plasticine, but even this seems not enough for the manufacturer of this shit. He still manages to make them thinner or even thicker than necessary.

This is what the cheapest puller looks like, or rather, what’s left of it: a bolt from it is lost somewhere. It was used only once - the thread was immediately torn off, both on the puller itself and on the rotor, although before using this guan it was good there.

How to check PP with a multimeter on a moped?

The relay regulator on a Chinese scooter is checked using a multimeter with a voltmeter function. For this purpose, a simple DT-830 (or equivalent) is usually used. It is better to carry out diagnostics and measurement of output voltage with the device removed.

1. You need to unscrew the fairing with the central phase and find on the frame a device with 4 wires: red, green, yellow and white.
2. Then start the scooter and check the voltage at idle: measure it between the green and red wires, setting the multimeter to the maximum value of 20 V.
3. If the multimeter display shows a figure of 14.6-14.8 V, this is normal. For stabilizers on Chinese mopeds, this is the operating standard voltage. If at idle the multimeter shows a value of 15-16 V, this is a high voltage indicator. This indicates a malfunction of the relay regulator.
4. Then you need to check the voltage supplied to the lighting lamps. An alternating voltage is supplied to the central low beam (high beam) lamp, so the multimeter should be switched to the alternating current measurement mode with a parameter of 20 V.
5. Next, we measure the voltage between the green and yellow wires (green is the general electrical network of the moped). If the multimeter shows a network voltage of up to 12 V, then the electrical appliances are operating without additional load.
6. If at idle this value is 16 V or higher, and with a sharp increase in engine speed it jumps to 25 V, the device does not stabilize the voltage and, therefore, does not work. With such readings, the device must be replaced with a new one.

Using a multimeter, they check the relay regulator on a Chinese scooter.
In order to make a measurement, you need to:

In this way, regulators are tested on popular Japanese models with small engine volumes from brands such as Honda (Leard, Dio, Tact), Suzuki, Yamaha.

Replacing a faulty relay regulator on a scooter is not difficult.

How to replace a faulty relay regulator on a scooter?

If the charging current is not supplied to the battery contacts when the generator is working properly, the stabilizer needs to be changed. Replacing it yourself is not difficult.

To do this you need to do the following:

1. Place the scooter on the central support.
2. Find the location of the device in a specific moped model. If you can’t find it right away, you can use the instruction manual.
3. Dismantle the cladding. Depending on the moped model, the stabilizer may be located on the front (under the front plastic), in the rear, or under the seat. In this case, the underseat space is removed along with the seat.
4. Unscrew the device from its seat while maintaining the fasteners. As a rule, the relay is attached to the scooter frame with a bolt, or less often with a self-tapping screw.
5. Disconnect the connector and secure the new regulator with the fastener. The installed device must have a pinout and connector similar to the one replaced, and be suitable in terms of parameters for this particular scooter model.
6. Connect the relay-regulator on the scooter to a standard connector and assemble the remaining spare parts in the reverse order of disassembly.

Generator operating principle

As you already understand, the generator is the most important device of the scooter, and it is capable of producing only alternating current. But there are many cases when headlights, batteries and other devices only need direct current. And before we begin to consider this problem, we will study the concepts of alternating and direct current. Any type of electric current is a stream of charged particles, in other words they are called electrons. In the case of direct current, energy generation occurs without changing direction or magnitude. When the generator operates using the alternating current method, the flow of particles always changes direction and magnitude. Accordingly, to operate alternating current, batteries are required, which are found in most household devices. They allow devices to operate with alternating current, but in turn require a direct current source to charge them directly.

Let's move from theory closer to precise examples, and take a regular scooter battery that needs to be charged from direct current. To convert direct current into alternating current, a rectifier is installed on the scooter. Then the voltage relay comes into operation, supplying only the required amount of electricity. This relay is considered a rectifier. As a result, normal operation of the scooter is ensured by the current generated by the generator in the required amount, previously passed through the voltage regulator. So depending on the speed of the crankshaft, your scooter produces a corresponding amount of electricity.

How many amperes does a car alternator produce per battery?

The current strength required by the electrical system of each car is individual and depends on the number of electricity consumers and their values. And also the charge current must be sufficient to charge the power source.

It is worth noting that ampere readings appear only when there is a load in the vehicle’s electrical system and, accordingly, the battery is discharged. After starting the car engine, the charging current is about 6-10 amperes and drops over time, because the battery is charging, taking on the main energy consumption. If you turn on additional equipment - headlights, radio or heated mirrors, you can see an increase in the charging current values.

When purchasing a generator, pay attention to its technical characteristics, which the manufacturer indicates on the case - that’s where you will find information about the maximum current that will flow to the battery.

In the table below you can see the approximate current values ​​​​that the generator shows at different loads.

Table 1. How many amperes the generator produces under load.

Homemade voltage regulator.

Greetings to all! Somehow my voltage regulator (not a relay-regulator, don’t confuse it) on a Chinese 4-stroke “fly”; I wasn’t planning on buying a new one, since the standard LV on all 4Ts is crap, so I went online to look for a diagram. I didn’t have to search for long; I found a very simple and cheap option: a shunt RN. But for proper operation, it was necessary to disassemble the generator and disconnect the wire from ground, and lead it out with a separate wire.. Well, okay, I won’t explain further, because not everyone knows about electrics. In Chinese 4t, as a rule, these are the launch vehicles: The circuit is crap, the efficiency is crap, the resource is crap

Let’s assemble this one (For a single-phase generator, in our case): For a three-phase one: We have two options for connecting a homemade LV, I won’t drag it out and tell you what and how: The first option (with alteration of the generator): 1) We disassemble the generator, remove the stator from engine and this is what we see: Important: Where it says “The mass needs to be soldered off” we solder a separate wire onto the winding and bring it out, this will be one end of the winding. The other end will be the white wire. That's it, we're done, putting the generator back together

It should turn out like this: That is, we have two wires coming from the generator (Actually, there will be three of them, but we will need two). I won’t describe the connection of the LV further, I’ll show you a better picture: Done, all that remains is to connect the yellow wire from the old LV to the “+” of the battery. With this, the first version of the alteration is completed. Now our board. the network has a constant voltage.

Source

How to make a relay regulator with your own hands?

To make a relay regulator with your own hands, you need a diagram and a little knowledge. The model of a homemade regulator is based on the principle of disassembling the generator and outputting a separate end of the wire from ground.

As a diagram, you can take the relay-regulator connection diagram (Figure 3), and on its basis assemble a single-phase generator.

To collect the stabilizer you need:

• disassemble the generator and remove the stator from the engine;
• then you need to unsolder the ground from the generator, solder a separate additional wire for the winding to it and bring it out. This wire will be one end of the winding. The second end is the generator wire;
• After removing the wires, you need to reassemble the generator in reverse order.

With this device, the generator has 2 wires (there should be 3 in total). You can connect the stabilizer according to this scheme:

Do-it-yourself relay-regulator manufacturing diagram

At the end of the process, you need to connect the yellow wire from the old regulator to the “+” terminal in order to obtain a constant voltage on the sides of the network. Check the resulting voltage regulator on the scooter. At this point, the process of creating a homemade device can be considered complete.

The relay regulator is a very useful thing and necessary for the normal operation of the moped. However, it requires attention and constant monitoring of its work. Therefore, if the device fails or its performance is unsatisfactory, it is better to replace it with a new one, the cost of which today ranges from 300 to 500 rubles.