history of the company
The history of Harley Davidson deserves special attention. It is one of the most successful firms that has ever existed. The company began in 1903. It was in this year that Davidson and Harley released their first bike. They soon founded a small company and began producing about 50 motorcycles a year. Over time, they began to introduce innovative developments into their products: V-Twin engine, manual transmission. Even in the earliest times, Harley-Davidson products had their famous, highly visible shape.
The company withstood difficult crises for the American economy, produced more than 80 thousand units of equipment for the US military needs during the Second World War and remained afloat. Currently, Harley Davidson produces about 200,000 motorcycles per year. It is also noteworthy that the community of motorcyclists under the auspices of the company is the largest in the world.
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If the new model was able to slightly lose in decibels and power compared to other vehicles, it more than compensated for everything with its expressiveness and emotions. The manufacturer decided to get rid of everything that is not a Sportster part, leaving only a small steering wheel, a seat located 710 centimeters above the asphalt and a five-speed powerful V-shaped 1200 cc two-cylinder engine with a 45-degree camber angle that can speed away your driver to any place.
The Custom 2015 motorcycle received its name because it is part of the Harley-Davidson H-D1 customization program. It can be purchased in black, two solid colors, and two two-tone colors. There will probably be certain people in the company who can come up with separate names for motorcycles of each color and design.
Traveling on this type of vehicle is not nearly as bad as it might seem at first glance. And it doesn't matter at all how many motorcycles you've been on before with those 265 kilograms of steel, you'll feel completely different. Sure, you may not win many drag races with the rest of the performance two-wheelers, but the first 20 meters will definitely be yours. This opportunity arises due to the presence of a revving 1200 engine and a strong clutch; the installed gearbox is capable of working smoothly and clearly at the same time, preventing the big toe on the left foot from doubting for a second.
The motorcycle has non-adjustable control levers, but they will fit almost any hand. The new model also features a higher quality brake disc, a more powerful front caliper with 34mm pistons and more impressive brake cylinders made from aluminum with reduced friction. Additionally, the brake lines used in the motorcycle were made of stainless steel. ABS is an option that does not come standard.
Surprisingly, even at considerable speed the motorcycle has a very smooth ride, and thanks to the presence of rubber engine mounts it is very comfortable to sit on. The speed limit of 160 kilometers per hour can be overcome incredibly easily, but the nature of this iron horse makes itself felt. As in the previous model, the rear suspension travels 53 millimeters, but this can only be seen if you encounter very bad asphalt. Undoubtedly, Harley-Davidson has other models that are better suited for comfortable riding and touring than the Sportster.
In the winter season, the Mini-Ape Hanger type handlebar installed on the test version of the bike can turn into a real problem, but with the onset of summer, on the contrary, it will become very useful. With its help, the driver's armpits will not be able to sweat, and in general it allows you to comfortably drive this vehicle.
A Sportster is what it is and doesn't care whether you like it or not. This is certainly one of the biggest benefits of aging. The legendary iron horse, as before, has an incredible number of fans of all ages, and if you belong to this category, you will definitely not be disappointed.
Harley Davidson Sportster 1200
Motorcycles of this model are the most common. Buyers are attracted to them not only by their appearance, but also by their relatively affordable price. The Sportster is the lightest model in terms of weight and handling. Its frame is narrower and more compact than that of classic models, and provides better maneuverability on the roads.
The first Sportster motorcycle appeared in 1957 in order to satisfy the interests of those who wanted to purchase a sports bike. The developers tried to achieve ideal characteristics, and they succeeded. The new frame, equipped with engine balancing shafts, is more rigid and durable, and the 2-piston brakes have also been improved. The cooling system has also been improved. Increasing the engine speed gave it additional power. The ignition system has also undergone modernization. At the same time, Harley has not changed its classic brutal style at all. The ease of handling makes the Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 ideal for urban riding.
On the run
Fortunately, my first expectations of shaking and vibration were not fully realized. Yes, not an inline four, but also not the shaker that the Road King seemed to be. The exhaust sound, to me, is quite aggressive and quite recognizable as a Harley, although, judging by other reviews, the vast majority of these models are immediately modified. You can order Screamin' Eagle and a better air filter from the factory.
To get a full set of sensations, I went onto the autobahn and... my eyes “swimmed.” The 1202 cc engine, although it accelerates the motorcycle noticeably, but at the same time gives specific vibrations from which the images in the mirrors dissolve. These same vibrations are “remarkably” transmitted to the handlebars and footpegs. Hm. I quickly settled into fifth gear and at the same time realized what a real “naked” is - I literally started to tear myself away from the handles after 130 km/h. In general, without thinking for long, at the first exit I turned onto a smaller path. This is where Sportser feels at home. If you keep it a little above 2000 rpm (by the way, the engine spins wonderfully, although not a real sport), then everything is great.
As for me, the comfortable speed zone is somewhere between 20 and 80 km/h. At low speeds (somewhere up to 2 thousand, when taxiing out of a parking lot), the engine does not feel very confident, “moving” the motorcycle virtually with single “shots” of the cylinders, and after 3 thousand revolutions, vibrations make themselves felt. As for me, the “working” area is too narrow. Although driving at 80 km/h on a secondary road is the way to go.
Gear shifting, accompanied by a “thoroughbred” clang, is in principle quite sane, although the foot stroke is short. I didn’t find any sharp jerks when shifting, even with aggressive shifting, although I have a suspicion that the presence of a belt compensates for everything decently.
On secondary roads, maintaining 80 km/h turned out to be very natural, but when at some point I discovered a small chapel and decided to stop for photos, I was not at all happy with the responsiveness of the brakes. I understand that with one disc in front on this class of equipment, the mandatory use of the rear brake is implied, but the sluggishness and unresponsiveness to the given force did not convince me. Somehow I stopped, but realized that I needed to brake in advance and thoughtfully; emergency braking could well be activated, fortunately the standard ABS.
After stopping, the muffled engine “clacked” as it cooled in the shade, delighting its rider with “the voice of a real balloonist.”
On the way back, I tried to accelerate at the exit to the autobahn and was once again convinced that although in principle this is quite possible, you won’t get much pleasure from it.
By the way, even on the Sportser (and not just on expensive models) the turn signals turned out to be self-switching. When exiting a turn, the electronics detect a change in lean angle and turn off the turn signal. Although I have already become mentally accustomed to the presence of buttons under my left and right hands, still pressing a button with my right hand while holding it or, even worse, turning the throttle remains a non-trivial task. By the way, due to the location of the turn signals - on the steering wheel near the handles, their operation is already visible from the driver’s seat, so the presence of light bulbs on the “mini-pissed” dashboard was not very necessary, unlike the mirror.
The previous owner had "minimized" the presence of mirrors, resulting in the right mirror being "present missing." It turned out to be particularly inconvenient when changing lanes and turning. Fortunately there were few cars, but overall it looked like a bad joke.
Specifications
Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 has excellent technical characteristics. It is equipped with a 1200 cubic centimeter V-engine that produces 96 Nm of torque. The motorcycle is considered the lightest among Harleys and weighs 268 kilograms. The amount of horsepower varies depending on the model and year around 58-66 units. This is quite enough to provide the Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 with acceleration to 100 km in 4 seconds. With this time, you can start beautifully from a traffic light and impress observers.
The technical characteristics of the Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 allow it to reach speeds of up to 175 km/h, but the operating speed is lower - around 160. Fuel consumption, depending on the route and driving style, is 5-7 liters per 100 kilometers. This model also has a rather impressive gas tank with a volume of 17 liters, which helps you travel a certain amount of distance without refueling.
The developers also did a great job on the appearance of the Harley Davidson Sportster 1200. The motorcycle looks so proportionate and harmonious that you want to immediately get on it and ride, conquering more and more new roads.
motorcycle strangers
Good afternoon, people!
My name is MadMax. I own an XL1200S motorcycle.
My topic called “Gasoline, consumables, fasteners” has long existed on one of the popular motorcycle sites. It must be said that it has long outgrown the “short pants” of the popularly chattering motorcycle community and in some places has turned into an outright trash bin.
Here I will talk about the XL1200S model and describe the process of setting up and operating the motorcycle, fortunately, all this is still to come. Also, I will ask questions to “experienced” Harley riders. I will be consistent and meticulous in discussions. I hope this helps someone in the future. For those who are looking to buy any Sportster - after all, the “Sport” model contains almost all the family features of the Sportster family.
Therefore, we need to tell you a little about S
The Sport modification appeared in the Sportster family in 1996. Consigned to history in 2003. I just have a copy from the last year, 2003.
Here, in the photo, it is only after purchase, not yet cleared of the “husks” (back, reflectors, stupid stickers).
In 1998, the model underwent a slight refresh. Double spark plug heads, an electronic ignition module appeared, and the brakes were improved.
Well, in fact, the following features distinguish the S from other Sportsters:
— Delphi electronic ignition: — two-plug heads (many say that from Buell - I haven’t seen confirmation of this anywhere; the coil is 4-pin, respectively); — compression ratio 10.0 (other Sportsters before 2003 had 8.7 and 9.0); — “high” camshafts (I won’t write the markings yet, it’s hardly interesting); — “leaky” carburetor jets (accelerator pump included); — MAP sensor instead of VOES, which everyone else has; — Adjustable Showa suspension (both front and rear); — double-disc front brake; — 13-spice cast wheels; — “factory” tachometer.
Otherwise, +/- the usual Sportster. Rigid mounting of the engine in the frame (“rigid”).
Oh yes! Horses - 69 at 5500 rpm ("electronic collar" at 5500 - we'll discuss later!!), maximum torque - 103 Nm at 4000 rpm. But that's according to the book. If I’m in a good mood, I’ll go to the stand in the summer.
Tank - “pistachio”, 12.5 liters before reserve. The remote controls, steering wheel, mirrors, and steering column covers are painted black. The steering wheel is narrow. HD 100th anniversary badges on the tank. !! There is also an anniversary badge on the block. Framed with a piping in the crankcase casting - spenders (or show-offers??)!!
Rumor has it that the Model S was originally positioned as an over-Sportster/under-Buel. That is, a road motorcycle for those who love the Sportster, but do not want to put up with its very mediocre performance. Hence the slightly “tightened” engine and adjustable suspensions and, in general, a normal semi-finished product for an upgrade according to the owner’s temperament. Let's just say that it has reserves for tuning. If you take a regular Hagger or Custom, it will take more money to bring him to his senses. In 1998, the motorcycle was updated. Just then they added 2-plug heads and a new ignition. It seems that the model was not in demand by buyers; few people wanted to pay extra from 600 to 800 dollars for dubious (according to ordinary people) advantages. Therefore, by 2003, it was closed under the guise of another modernization of the family. The successor to the S was the R modification with its 883R and 1200R models. It must be said that these were not the same semi-finished products...
But in 2008, the XR1200 was released. Well what can I say? It's like when the Ford RS came back. It seems nonsense, but it’s nice.
I like the color. Metallic. I don’t remember exactly what it’s called in Harley.
At first I thought of repainting it brutal black. Then I gave it to a friend for a ride and decided to look at the motorcycle in motion. The brake light on the blue fender looks very cool. In general, I won't repaint it.
The color is awesome. I like
That's how he is. Fast motor.
Let's continue our research.
I would definitely like to express my opinion about the vibrations of the power plant. Let me remind you that the fasteners in the frame are rigid.
On a warm engine, in idle mode, you can see how the front wheel jumps along with the fork. The engine runs erratically - this is its normal condition.
When accelerating without load (not in motion) around 4000 rpm, a wave of vibrations resonates from the far points of the motorcycle to the speedometer and tachometer. It's similar to how a dog shakes itself off after swimming in a river. Around 5000 rpm, the layer of leather on the driver's seat resonates. Yes Yes. Imagine. I'm not talking about silencers. With a sharp release of gas, they sway left and right like a cucumber in a glass (instead of the word “cucumber” you can use a stronger word - well, you get the idea). I was surprised that even (!!) the gas tank cap vibrates. Her rattling was infuriating at first.
The movement has its own characteristics. In WOT mode, teeth can pop out in the range of 3500-4500 rpm. Hands “dry” approximately here. That is if they are naked. Wearing gloves reduces the effect. I use special army gloves with soft inserts. I have enough. Otherwise, you can get used to it. * the fifth point is always under massage *
This is the norm. For an engine with a forked connecting rod and a 45 degree camber, this is normal. There are no balance shafts here. We will massage (forgive me, Russian, for the mockery).
The myth of Harley vibrations ceased to exist for me. I understood the extent and type of this effect. Jackhammer? Yes. Is it stressful? No. In short, in my opinion this issue is not worth close attention. Let yourself tremble. It's made that way. It doesn't bother me to live. I open the swimming season on Cosmonautics Day.
In the first kilometers, many parts of the hitch and their fasteners wanted to run away from me. There will be a separate post about this. Although vibrations were the root cause.
PS: when stopping at a traffic light, willy-nilly I hear from a vibrating motorcycle (read at a fast pace): “Let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go!!!!" A minute of waiting turns into an eternity. It is unpleasant to stand and wait on it. He just pushes you to “stick” the first one and unscrew all the bolts... No motorcycle before has produced such an effect. On the contrary, I liked the way they booed at x.x. the Japanese and even the Urals!
Here's an observation. Is it good or bad? Don't know. Cool feature. But... There are no silencers for the taste and color...
A little about the jambs:
It was a nice summer day. The mood was great. I was driving along Kutuzovsky to the city center. In the left lane, 120-130 km/h, as usual.
There were no signs of trouble, when suddenly the “tidy” fell with a crash onto the headlight visor. She began to thrash about him terribly. I immediately grabbed it with my left hand and, without slowing down, continued moving. This happened at the fork with Dorogomilovskaya, at the entrance to the tunnel.
The middle rows were blocked by some stupid buses that walked in a column and were accompanied by chipboard cars (today is June 12th - a holiday, the city center is blocked). They walked so tightly that at my speed I could not wedge myself into the column. And I couldn’t leave the “tidy” either. Some Bentley-Schmentleys started to hit me in the back. In short, I had to fly right up to the beginning of New Arbat (Kalinin Avenue).
Only then I turned right and stopped in the wrong place. I began to think about how to go further (a person was waiting for me at the appointed time).
There were a couple of bags from the supermarket in the backpack. I pulled the “tidy” with them. I placed the gloves between the “tidy” and the visor (so as not to fight), and drove on. Got to the meeting on time.
Special thanks to the girl on the scooter (unfortunately, I didn’t ask her name and... phone number - I’m married), who stopped to help me. __________________________________________________________________________
What do we have in the bottom line?
"Unfortunate." to the awesome people for working on the exterior. The bracket is clearly flimsy for two weighty devices. The vibrations of the Ridged Mount, Moscow roads and the console did their job. The motorcycle is new. Mileage - about 2500 km. The year is 2003.
It's a shame, Yo I'll have to make homemade brackets.
Moral of the story:
Guys, owners of Sport-s, R-s and other Sportsters with such tidy - Be careful! If it happens, don't be surprised.
About the accident:
SMACKED
No, not like that.
SQUARRED. No... not that either...
Wow, exactly. 3.14 FUCKED (I apologize for the rudeness)…
Almost got a strike. Two guys and an Alfa Romeo. Harley and I missed the skittles by half a meter.
Classic. Wheel lock on dusty tiles. I went on business at lunchtime. Returned to the workshop. Re-braked. He fell on his left side. We slipped about 5-6 meters. Harley is a little further away from me. My jeans, jacket, and left boot are dirty. The rear left turn signal on the Harley was worn out, its glass flew out and cracked. The left steering wheel grip is worn. The driver's left footrest is worn. The clutch lever is jammed (straightened it out with a screwdriver). And, worst of all, the adjustment of the gear change mechanism was disrupted. He got out of control. The fact is that when sliding, the motorcycle rested, among other points, on the gear shift paw, bending it upward. Judging by the deep grooves on the tile, the weight of the motorcycle seriously pushed down the gear change shaft. The defect showed: the shaft is straight, the foot is intact, the gears engage poorly, neutral is practically not found
I kept the oil that I changed literally three hundred years ago. I'll pour it back in.
Well what can I say? Got upset. But they didn’t give up.
After the end of the working day, I removed the primary gear cover and adjusted the mechanism. Oh, what a boring job this is. The fact is that it needs to be adjusted with the clutch removed. I think you guessed that I succeeded without removing it. Well, I don’t want to disassemble half a motorcycle.
But I’ll say one thing right away - I give the HD engineers “satisfactory” for the layout of the body parts and primary transmission mechanisms of the Sportster. with a minus. There is no German school on them!
First things first... After the fall, it became difficult to engage the gears, neutral was difficult to catch (just like on a Yamaha), in short, the shift adjustment was lost.
The manual describes in detail the process of adjusting the entire mechanism (using a drill as a gauge), but... it involves removing the clutch, because it is located behind it in the housing. Of course, you don’t want to do this, since the process is very labor-intensive and lengthy. Besides, my professional instinct told me that everything was not so hopeless.
Stock up on this trough (slide 1). It will always help you to “preserve” the oil. Of course, the oil was changed about 200 km ago, pouring in a new one is not in the style of post-apocalyptic Australia. To do this, thoroughly clean the container and degrease it. As you can see, I use an antifreeze canister. You can also use the old sump from the automatic transmission - it’s cooler
Drain the oil after heating it. “Warming up” means driving a few kilometers, not a hundred meters, as many naively believe. It is necessary to fry the oil to its operating temperature (60-80 degrees) so that it leaves the crankcase better. It is enough to drive about 10-15 kilometers around the city, with frequent acceleration and braking - the operating modes of the clutch, and therefore the generation of heat when sliding.
Saved the oil. Remove the primary gear cover. I won't describe it in detail. Everything works out quickly there even intuitively. The only thing that can make life easier during removal (and later during installation) is removing the clutch cable from the cover. The chain guide (shoe) must be loosened to the limit so that the cover can come off more easily. Take a 22mm wrench for the nut and a 1/4 hexagon. Move the shoe away from the chain by unscrewing the rod (slide 2).
Carefully remove the pressure and its nuts with the spring. Put the lid seal aside, don’t throw it away, it will come in handy.
And further. You MUST place some cardboard meter by meter under the oil container. You will save the oil, but you will heavily damage the floor or ground with oil leaks from the crankcase - it is better to immediately protect yourself from long exercises with sawdust and a broom.
Remove the cover - assess the condition of the “sub-axial space”. Is anything unscrewed, are there any powder shavings in the crankcase cavities, etc. What is the size of the “hedgehog” on the drain plug? Can't you see what's gnawing on something? In short, take the time, you won’t regret it. Everything was clean with me, except for the sparkles of metal on the cork. I think this is a product of the contact between the starter ring and the switch.
This is where the fun begins. The base of the switch is held in the housing by two nuts (slide 3).
The plate they hold has elongated holes that allow you to select the desired angle of the switch plate. A crutch is attached to this plate, pushing the copy shaft. And the shift shaft (the one that we press with our left foot) is connected to this plate with a lever. It’s tricky, but when you see it with your own eyes (live or in a manual), you’ll understand everything. In principle, the scheme is classic. Why adjust the mechanism? The fact is, this is necessary to coordinate the kinematics of the mechanism and the housing in which it is installed. Due to inaccuracies in manufacturing and machining, gaps in the hinges of the mechanism, it is required to set it to “zero”. This operation is standard for such mechanisms. An analogy can be drawn with the mode change mechanism in the automatic transmission and the PRNDL interior selector...
I loosened the nuts, put the plate in the middle position and began to adjust the mechanism (slides 4 and 5).
The idea is simple - to achieve a clear engagement of neutral and, since everything is done with the engine turned off, a clear engagement of the “neighboring” neutral gears - first and second. The retainer, as seen in the manual, looks like a flower petal. Locked with a hanging roller.
MUST... Achieve full engagement of first and second gears. You can “stick” passes with punches. You can and should help fork 1-2 move the wheels completely into place. To do this, you can roll the motorcycle back and forth in one of the gears or (this is a little more difficult) help the fork with your hand, as if to bring it to full gear engagement (slide 6).
It's hard to see on the slide. You will see everything live. In general, you need to help the fork with your hand to move not 20, not 50, but 100% of its travel. As you understand, the wheel engagement in this case is completely normal.
OK. We achieved this. What's next? And then comes the adjustment. Look for a position for installing the plate in which it is easy to put neutral in both 1st and 2nd gears, the gears themselves are easily engaged, there is no misalignment or misalignment. It's not very easy, but in real life everything works out quite quickly. To get normal sensations, place the shift tab on the shaft and try moving the lever with your foot. I guarantee that you will find the right position quickly enough.
In addition, in ordinary life such adjustments are made when assembling the engine, when replacing parts, or when individual parts are damaged. I had a fall, which led to a “chatter” in the mechanism. This is sad, but most likely, with the same next fall, the paw will “float away” again. We'll keep thinking. Maybe it’s worth installing arcs...
Did you find the position of clear clicks and engagements (watch the fork)? OK, tighten the nuts to 8-10 Nm and smoke.
It's time to put everything back together (preferably the next day). Clean the flanges on the engine cover and crankcase. BE SURE to degrease them. Take the old gasket. Don't degrease it. The aggressive composition can devour it. Just dry it thoroughly with an absorbent cloth. I take responsibility for not changing the gasket. It won't leak, believe me. The maximum is to sweat locally. Of course, later (in winter) we will change the gasket. Clean the lid bolts in nefras (slide 7).
Don't lose the pins and do everything in reverse order. When you install the cover, protect the shaft seal from damage. Wrap the splines and the step on the shaft with tape, it’s a cheap job, and the cuff will be guaranteed to be intact (slide 8).
Carefully lean the lid, do not forget about the pins. Tighten the bolts according to the diagram in the manual. Relying on my experience, I tightened the torque to 5-8 Nm “cross-on-cross”. Don't mix up the bolts. Three dimensions. Two large ones hold the driver's footrest, 4 - two on the pins and the upper, “fat” part of the cover, the rest - everywhere. I am writing because there have been cases when somewhere a bolt does not fit, it is pulled until it is stupefied, somewhere two threads do not hold and the thread also breaks.
Have you collected it? Click the paw without adding oil or straining the chain.
All the same? nothing escaped? Great.
Roll the motorcycle back and forth, engage one of the gears (the wheels in the gearbox will take a new position and move apart). Look for neutral from 1st and 2nd. Are there any jumps from 1 to 2 and vice versa? No? So, OK. Does the neutral click clearly? Yes? OK. Is there a lack of inclusion felt? Well, that is, you press your foot, but nothing happens? No? OK.
2 weeks and about a thousand kilometers have passed since the adjustment. There's something to be said.
For adjustments “blindly” or “by touch” the result is excellent. Both cold and hot, neutral is found perfectly, it doesn’t jump. The clamp securely fixes the copy shaft. The gears switch on clearly.
There is also a negative connotation. Switching “up” does not seem to be completely complete - about 80-90% of the shaft rotation. The joint between the cover and the crankcase does not leak, and neither does the cuff. Only a couple of inter-bolt spans at the bottom are sweating. Well, the gasket is old. I'll change it in winter. Need to order. ______________________________________________________________
And in winter I will adjust the mechanism “according to the book” by removing the clutch. Walk - just walk
About gasoline.
If you don’t remember my long ordeals with choosing a brand of gasoline and don’t stir up the topic “Gasoline, consumables, fasteners,” then at the moment, after many city and highway kilometers, I give preference to the AI-98.
You remember about the engine - the compression ratio is 10.0. About recommendations “from a book” - too. I tried refueling with 95, 98, 95 and 98 in different ratios, turning the ignition and analyzing the operation of the engine (catching detonation, adjusting the carburetor, looking at the condition of the spark plugs, heating of the heads, etc., etc.).
So, my choice for the XL1200S is the AI-98. With this gasoline, the engine does not overheat as much as with 5th gasoline and runs smoother. Dynamic performance is satisfactory, consumption is normal. The condition of the candles is normal.
The 95th was not satisfied with its 92nd origin. The engine got hotter even in highway mode (one of the signs of a low octane fuel number), worked unstably, and sometimes detonated. Don't forget about adjusting the ignition; there is no knock sensor here.
In addition, I had to “fill in” the IA-95 a couple of times. After a certain number of operating cycles, the motor sneezed and twitched. On the threaded part of the spark plug (which indirectly signals the quality of the fuel and the degree of “dumping” - so-called jetting) not soot accumulated, but, I would even say, plaque. Black hard coating, like pieces of ice.
In other words, maybe the AI-95 (and in some cases the 92nd) is good for Sportster engines, but for the “pressed-up” XL1200S engine, in my opinion, the AI-98 is excellent.
And further. I would not recommend refueling at dense gas stations, gas station clones or gas stations like Horseradish (Gay-, Duper-, Super-) Oil, and even more so, buying “95 at 20 per liter” from Uncle Vasya , fuel truck driver. Take this issue seriously. For several years now I have been refueling at one branded gas station, which is not exactly close to my house, but at a short distance. The gas station belongs to a large domestic oil-producing concern, which clearly monitors the quality of work of its gas stations in the capital. The engines of all the cars and motorcycles that consumed that gasoline never gave any reason to doubt their PROPER quality.
Speed characteristics of the XL1200S.
I finally found the gear ratios for my motorcycle. Constructed a speed characteristic. Americans also call it saw-tooth diagram. Drive wheel size - 130 / 90 - 16.
The red line indicates the value of the maximum engine crankshaft speed. Green—peak engine torque. Blue lines indicate gears from I to V. You can also observe several calculation tables - the total gear ratio (first table), the progression of adjacent gears, the maximum speed in each gear, the number of revolutions when changing to the next gear (in wide open throttle mode).
Tested in practice. It fits. I cranked the engine until the cutoff in the first three gears - the calculated speeds coincided.
The diagram shows a huge II-III gap. And so it is. The range, for my taste, is not divided rationally. I would lower the number II and increase the number III. Then dynamic acceleration in WOT (wide open throttle) mode would be smoother and more rolling. And so - I turned on the first one until the cutoff, the second - I turned one and a half - already switched, the third - and the locomotive started moving. The most unpleasant moment is the protracted (long) acceleration in “three”. Then - “four” and everything is generally sluggish. But this is normal - the speeds have already increased. There, completely different processes are taking place and the force of resistance is seriously growing.
I see no apparent reason for this breakdown. Although, we should not forget that only developers know all 70% of the known information about the product. And there can be quite a lot of reasons for choosing exactly these numbers and breakdowns. Let's put it another way: I (emphasis) are not entirely comfortable with these numbers in my environment.
Soon I will try the motorcycle at maximum speed. I think we'll get 175-180.
Don't forget! The speedometer moves up by 5-10% depending on the speed. The true speed is ALWAYS LOWER than indicated by the speedometer, this is inherent in the design. Wheel circumference 130 / 90 - 16 measured on a motorcycle.
* we are thinking about a tuning block with a “collar” not for 5500, but for 6800 and 7200 * * of course, I want to “expand” the “native” block *
I immediately remember the guys who “went 190 in their Sportster without bending down.” Storytellers. Or tuning?
Sources:
https://harleyforums.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=33&sid=db1045064e4d86700931d10bf2b4ddfb https://harleyforums.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=17&sid=db1045064e4d86700931d10bf2b4 ddfb
Advantages and disadvantages
Like any vehicle, Harley is not without its shortcomings. But you can’t find too many of them:
- high cost of original spare parts;
- small seat (suitable for only one passenger);
- specific size of bolts with inch threads.
Otherwise, this is a real treasure on wheels:
- excellent brakes (both front and rear);
- large and comfortable mirrors;
- fast acceleration;
- attractive appearance;
- economical fuel consumption;
- comfortable fit and comfortable steering wheel;
- suspension that will not be afraid of Russian roads;
- modern cooling system.
Owner reviews
Motorcyclists speak of the Harley-Davidson 1200 not just well, but with real love. Rest assured, if you bought this bike, you won’t be able to get away with easy sympathy. This is a motorcycle for the soul. If you're a fan of sportbikes rather than choppers, then this won't appeal to you. But if you are a fan of a leisurely and “soulful” ride, then you will like the smooth rumble of the engine and the classic appearance.
The raised steering wheel keeps your hands from getting tired, and the ease of control makes the Sportster 1200 ideal for urban conditions. Among the disadvantages, owners note the stiffness of the suspension, which almost does not soften the unevenness of the road. Motorcycle parts are of high quality. The virtually indestructible gearbox and excellent brakes will not soon require replacement after purchase. The only things that upset the owners are the too stiff clutch, which you have to get used to, and the forced loneliness on the road due to the small seat. Otherwise, if the Harley is looked after and faults are corrected in a timely manner, it will serve its owner for many years.
Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom: urban hardware
The Harley-Davidson model line includes several different directions. If you do not take into account the Street 750 bike, the most compact models of American motorcycles are the Sportster series bikes.
The Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom is the largest representative in its range. The bike is equipped with a 1,202 cc power unit. It is noteworthy that the volume of the main engine, which is installed on most Harley-Davidson models, is 1,690 cubic centimeters.
In addition, another distinctive feature of this bike is that despite its roots, it is not designed in the classic American style. The XL1200 CA Sportster is not a chopper, but rather a classic machine with an American touch in its design and technical part.
Pictured: Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom
The Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom is powered by an air-cooled V-twin engine. This is a classic layout for Harley bikes, but unlike older models, the transmission does not have a separate crankcase, but has a familiar design for most modern motorcycles: the gearbox and engine have a common crankcase. The XL1200 CA Sportster also has a traditional belt drive final drive.
Of course, many may ask a completely logical question: what exactly distinguishes Harley-Davidson from other representatives of the world of two-wheeled vehicles? Essentially everything. Firstly, this is a kind of iron character that is visible in every bike from this manufacturer. To understand this, just touch the device. Despite the fact that it is made of metal, it is pleasant, lively, “warm and lampy”, which cannot be said about Japanese and European bikes.
Such sensations are achieved due to the fact that the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom has not lost touch with previous models produced in the mid-20th century, when the industry did not know what plastic was, everything was made to last, without calculating the service life.
Harley-Davidson is not the only one of its kind. Other manufacturers such as Ural and Royal Enfield have a similar approach to motorcycles. But they cannot be compared with each other, since the products of each company are distinguished by their unique flavor and character.
Pictured: Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom
The Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom is no exception. It, like other bikes from this manufacturer, has practically no parts made of “soulless” plastic. As soon as you start the engine, it begins to vibrate in the frame. Moreover, this is not a defect associated with the use of an archaic design, but a tribute to the style and traditions of the brand.
The engineers of the American motorcycle manufacturer are not doing their job in vain. Even the vibration that the engine gives is not forced, but controlled. This is a design solution, characterized by uniformity and nobility, to emphasize the character of the bike, its real essence. In this case, there is absolutely no discomfort or irritation. The skill of the engineers working on the XL1200 CA Sportster is simply amazing. After all, they subtly and accurately managed to select the timbre of the engine, its vibration, so that nothing would irritate, and the biker would receive only pleasant emotions.
In the photo: a laconic and informative instrument panel of the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom
The motorcycle riding position is almost classic. Of course, different versions of the steering wheel can be used, which can be either a high chopper or a low one, but these are special cases. The Sportster Custom has an upright riding position with a slight forward lean. The footpegs also have a minimal forward reach, which also affects the formation of an optimal fit. The steering wheel has a classic height and width. The saddle is bucket-shaped, quite rigid, but has an excellent shape, which allows the rider not to slip during dynamic maneuvering.
While using the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom, you will need to get used to several of its design features. Firstly, the housing where the air filter is located gets very hot from the engine while driving, so you will have to periodically move your right foot away from the body of the motorcycle.
Secondly, you need to get used to the running boards. When driving at low speeds, along traffic flow, or when stopping at a traffic light, it is not always convenient to quickly remove your feet from the pegs and place them on the road. The footrests are located where it is most convenient to place your feet on the ground. If they were moved back or forward a little it would be ideal.
In addition, the driver's footrests have a folding design. Therefore, after stopping, it is necessary to constantly monitor them or unfold them by touch so that they get into the working position. It's not very convenient while driving.
Pictured: rear view of the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom
Taking into account all the comments on the design of the motorcycle, we can draw the following conclusion. Harley-Davidson employs qualified specialists. If they made such constructive decisions, then this was done on purpose. The bottom line is that American bikes come with a large number of different accessories to suit every taste. That is, it will not be difficult for the new owner of the XL1200 CA Sportster Custom to select from the tuning catalog those elements that he wants to install on his bike. Also, if desired, he can engage in customization and individualization of his device.
Urban look of the bike
While on the move, the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom, unlike motorcycles of the Dyna or Softail series, does not emit any vibrations or extraneous sounds. While driving, the vibration is less than at idle, but it is clearly felt on the handlebars, saddle and footpegs.
These vibrations permeate your entire body, giving you the feeling that you are riding an iron and real bike, and not a mass-produced model made of plastic. With all this, the Sportster Custom is a assembled and modern machine that can be used not only for weekend driving, but also for everyday commuting.
It’s worth noting right away that you shouldn’t expect from this motorcycle the dynamism of a liter sportbike or the maneuverability of a 50 cc scooter. But with all this, the motorcycle does not lag behind its competitors in dense city traffic. Thanks to the short wheelbase, low fork angle, and almost identical wheels front and rear, the bike turned out to be quite obedient and nimble.
The Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom with its entire essence and behavior suggests that it was created for the city. Riding in traffic on this bike is calm and comfortable. The thrust of the lower engine is enough for a shot not only from a standstill, but also when moving, in order to break away from the flow to perform a maneuver. This device is also able to leave traffic lights quite cheerfully. But you still need to be careful when cornering, because with a high angle of inclination of the motorcycle body, the stock footpegs may meet the asphalt too early.
Pictured: Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom
The suspension takes some getting used to. There are no complaints about the front fork at all, since it works flawlessly, is moderately elastic, and completely eliminates longitudinal sway during acceleration and braking. At the same time, it perfectly absorbs any bumps in its path, without creating any discomfort even when overcoming speed bumps.
The rear suspension is significantly inferior to it in its parameters. Sometimes it even seems that it was borrowed from another motorcycle. The shock absorbers are characterized by high rigidity and short stroke. Because of this, it seems that the bike is not fully balanced. The rear suspension is constantly trying to show its temper: it bounces and kicks, so you should carefully choose the road for your trip. Driving with a passenger leads to frequent breakdowns of the rear suspension.
It should also be noted that despite the presence of a passenger seat, the bike is largely designed for one person. The passenger seat is very small, hard, uncomfortable, and also has a noticeable slope towards the rear of the vehicle. Because of this, the passenger will constantly slide backwards.
This is yet another confirmation that the Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom is a single-seater motorcycle for city trips. This bike will appeal not only to fans of the brand, but also to those who are indifferent to choppers, chrome elements, and low-power naturally aspirated air-cooled engines. This is one of the few Harley-Davidsons that is designed for constant use.
The Harley-Davidson XL1200 CA Sportster Custom is not just a classic American bike, it is a device that can become a loyal friend and travel companion, an assistant for every day. Despite its modernity, it is still “warm and lamplike”, the way motorcycles were in the mid-20th century - real, devoid of cheap parts. Any design feature can be changed if desired using tuned parts. A variety of passenger seats and footrests will make the motorcycle more comfortable and easy to use.
Brief technical specifications of the Harley-Davidson XL1200 Sportster Custom
Type : classic
Dry weight, kg: 255
Seat height, mm: 710
Engine : two-cylinder, V-shaped, air-cooled
Working volume, cubic meters cm .: 1 202
Max. torque, Nm at rpm : 96 Nm at 3,650 rpm
Transmission : 5-speed
Final drive : belt
Brakes : disc, with ABS
