20.10.2016
The exhaust gases from your bike may change color or shade for some reason. You will learn from this article why white smoke comes from the muffler (or any other unusual color), as well as what needs to be done.
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PROBLEM
If your motorcycle is in good working order, then the exhaust is nothing more than a combination of water and carbon dioxide. Without impurities and additional components. However, in the case of fuel combustion, we are not dealing with pure oxygen, but with diluted nitrogen.
The color of smoke from a motorcycle muffler can be different: white, black and even blue. By its shade we are able to determine the nature of the breakdown. Often, smoke appears with other signs of malfunctions that are not noticed at first. This is the first sign that a serious breakdown is soon possible. And it needs to be excluded.
The problem is that even the most modern motorcycles experience incomplete combustion and oxidation of fuel. Accordingly, more CO and CH come out. Because of this, when changing fuel, a change in the color and consistency of exhaust smoke may be observed. In addition, sometimes oil or coolant used gets into the combustion chamber, which gives off its chemical compounds and is thrown out.
Another common cause is the wear and tear of the filter system. No matter how carefully you treat your motorcycle, filters perform their functions worse and worse over time. Therefore, if changes in the color of the exhaust are observed, perhaps replacing the filters will be the simplest solution to the problem. However, the matter may be completely different. Let's consider different options and possibilities for solving the problem.
WHITE SMOKE
In most cases, white smoke is a common occurrence in winter when you warm up your motorcycle in the morning. And almost always it is not smoke, but ordinary steam. Due to the temperature difference in the exhaust pipe, condensation always forms when it cools, after which it freezes until the next time the motorcycle warms up. When you start the car, the exhaust pipe also begins to heat up, melting the frozen condensate and turning it into a gaseous state. In this case, water may also drip from the pipe, which is also not a serious problem in this case. And the colder it is outside, the more noticeable the smoke is. Yes, and humidity plays a role. The higher it is, the thicker the white steam.
But what to do when the exhaust of an unusual color from the muffler is observed non-stop even in warm summer weather? This phenomenon is primarily associated with the penetration of liquid into the cylinders. As a rule, these are coolers: antifreeze, antifreeze or even plain water. In this case, there is a chance that you need to replace the cylinder head gasket. The moisture does not evaporate completely and smoke with a high density is formed. Characteristic is the fact that the color and density of the exhaust can vary greatly depending solely on the type of coolant. Low quality and cheap in itself can cause a lot of trouble.
In order to better understand the nature of white smoke, you need to carry out diagnostics. It mainly occurs due to problems in the cooling system. If there is a hint of its malfunction, we strongly recommend that you carry out a series of checks. First of all, you should make sure that the liquid is evaporating from the muffler. Warm up the engine to its usual operating temperature (the procedure can be carried out even after some travel). Find a clean piece of paper and apply it to the pipe, partially blocking the hole with it.
We draw conclusions: if it is water, it will turn into steam, without leaving behind any greasy, oily traces; if there are greasy stains on the sheet, there is clearly a problem in the system.
If the sheet is clean, we continue the search. The problem of moisture ingress may lie not in the gasket itself, which due to certain factors was damaged, but also in cracks in the cylinder blocks. They can usually be detected without problems upon careful examination.
There is another fairly common reason for the appearance of white smoke - the engine does not have time to warm up. If you drive a little and over short distances, condensation accumulates more and more and does not have time to escape. As a result, the exhaust may become so clogged with condensate that the car simply will not start. To avoid this, we recommend that you fully warm up the motorcycle at least once a day, and if possible, use auto-warming.
But detected problems, which are accompanied by white smoke from the muffler, do not just require urgent elimination of their causes. They require careful inspection and elimination of defects in the cooling system, since, as practice shows, they are caused by engine overheating. There is a possibility that the thermostat is faulty or the switch is not working, the radiator is not sealed, etc.
To summarize, we can say that in winter you should not particularly focus on the appearance of white smoke. The problem solves itself with the arrival of heat without your participation.
Motorcycle Smoke: Warning But Potentially Misleading Signs
This article outlines the types of smoke and their possible causes, but to help you decide what decision to make, we advise you to check for other warning signs of your motorcycle's condition. Indeed, smoking a motorcycle
may be accompanied by an odor or noise, which may lead to other possible solutions. Therefore, it would be better to call your mechanic when you notice smoke coming from your motorcycle.
Additionally, the solutions offered here are for medicinal purposes, but to prevent motorcycle smoking, the vehicle must be checked regularly.
BLACK SMOKE FROM SILENCER
Damage to the fuel supply system is the main cause of black smog. This means that the fuel is not completely burned. In daylight, this smoke is clearly visible; particles of soot can be traced in it.
As a rule, the appearance of black smoke is accompanied by higher fuel consumption than usual, poor auto-start, unstable engine operation, increased toxicity of exhaust gases, and, as often happens, loss of power.
There are many reasons why fuel does not burn completely. One of them is using a mixture that is too rich in fuel, or incomplete, improper combustion. This is mainly due to the fact that the power and ignition system is faulty.
Before applying any measures, you must check the spark plugs, coil and, of course, the ignition system settings. It may be that the injectors are delivering more fuel than needed. Or it may be that the air filter is too clogged and there is simply not enough air for the engine.
To quickly diagnose the ignition system, you need to:
Very often, acrid and dark smoke comes from the exhaust pipe in cars running on diesel fuel. The problem here most often lies in the high pressure pump. Incorrect injection angle may interfere with normal engine operation.
And, of course, do not forget about the quality of gasoline. Very often, a change in the color of exhaust gases is observed after visiting a gas station where you have not purchased fuel before. Low-quality gasoline itself burns much faster and entails a number of additional problems. You can drive, but you will have to spend a lot at gas stations. Alternatively, to diagnose and fix the problem, you can drain the fuel and add more expensive fuel. If the problem does not go away, then it is not his fault.
Source
The engine loses speed and stalls
The engine loses speed and stalls
#1 Post by gs500e » Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:16 pm
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#2 Post by BMSeer » Mon Jun 24, 2013 14:26
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#3 Post ORQ » Mon Jun 24, 2013 14:30
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#4 Post by Tomombolo » Mon Jun 24, 2013 14:31
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#5 Post by danmehr » Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:31 pm
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#6 Post by gs500e » Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:36 pm
Matvey, I completely agree with you. I also bought a motorcycle for the reason of delving into it. But unfortunately there are a lot of things to do now, and the problem needs to be solved urgently. The motor is inexpensive, but I still feel very sorry for it, for me it is like a living thing, but the circumstances are not turning out as I planned. And I don’t have a place for maintenance with tools yet (it would probably be difficult to rent something like that??) What kind of maintenance should I do exactly: air filter, oil? Thank you for understanding.
Added after 3 minutes 45 seconds: thanks for your help. Among motorcyclists there are clearly more sympathetic people :) i.e. Do I clean or change fuel filters? and what to do with carburetors? synchronize or clean? I apologize for being amateurish, give me time.
Re: Motor loses speed and stalls
#7 Post by Samurai_Jack » Mon Jun 24, 2013 14:41
Clean fuel filters. If there is a non-standard one (car, for example), it is better to replace it or remove it altogether. If this does not help, carefully look at the carburetors. It's better to give it to a specialist.
About the lack of space - an excuse for complacency. To change filters and oil, you need a 3*3 meter piece of asphalt, a cloth to put the screws in and a few tools. This is not an engine overhaul.
Messages [ 12 ]
1↑ Topic by Vasiliy14 13:53:32
Subject: After assembly, MT 11 began to smoke very heavily.
cylinders have new rings too! The oil was filled with Mannol 15 w50 semi-synthetic. The oil is spitting out from the knees of my head. Who can say what kind of Corruption this is?
2↑ Reply from Stierlitz 02/14/2014 14:36:32
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
Is oil leaking from the exhaust pipes? What is the condition of the guides and the valves themselves? I personally installed car guides and Teflon oil seals on them. Although someone is against them.
3↑ Reply from drakone 02/14/2014 14:40:53
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
after which it went, how the rings were changed or the cylinders and rings were installed is important. Maybe the rings were thrown on a broken-in boiler, or they were bad ones. or an oval in a cylinder, which is unlikely on new boilers. It depends on the oil in Vryatli. put metal paronite between the head and the boiler (if it leaks out of the oil drain hole)
Added: 02/14/2014 17:40:53
two at once? throws out candles?
4↑ Reply from Hunter 02/14/2014 15:14:02
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
5↑ Reply from vlasov89 02/14/2014 18:41:30
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
How much mass did you pour?
6↑ Reply from Hunter 02/14/2014 20:01:28
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
7↑ Reply from Vasiliy14 21:01:00
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
yes butter to the upper level.
Added: 02/14/2014 20:57:19
after which it went, how the rings were changed or the cylinders and rings were installed is important. Maybe the rings were thrown on a broken-in boiler, or they were bad ones. or an oval in a cylinder, which is unlikely on new boilers. It depends on the oil in Vryatli. put metal paronite between the head and the boiler (if it leaks out of the oil drain hole)
Added: 02/14/2014 17:40:53
two at once? throws out candles?
yes, two at once! Oily candles are not too bad
Added: 02/14/2014 21:00:10
Is oil leaking from the exhaust pipes? What is the condition of the guides and the valves themselves? I personally installed car guides and Teflon oil seals on them. Although someone is against them.
new pressed guides! sent it in for repairs.
Added: 02/14/2014 21:01:00
How much mass did you pour?
to the top level.
8↑ Reply from PATRIOT 02/15/2014 00:41:03
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
cylinders have new rings too! The oil was filled with Mannol 15 w50 semi-synthetic. The oil is spitting out from the knees of my head. Who can say what kind of Corruption this is?
9↑ Reply from Shaman 02/15/2014 09:42:10
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
Rum into the engine theme!
10↑ Reply from Vasiliy14 13:27:48
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
cylinders have new rings too! The oil was filled with Mannol 15 w50 semi-synthetic. The oil is spitting out from the knees of my head. Who can say what kind of Corruption this is?
why is not it good? due to tightness?
11↑ Reply from VIRUS 02/21/2014 07:40:55
Re: After assembly, the MT 11 began to smoke a lot.
Source
The engine smokes a lot
Have you measured them at all, gaps? Are the locks in the rings deployed correctly? What is the clearance between the cylinders and pistons?
1. Where else does the oil come from? 2. Did you plug the drainage holes from the heads with anything? 3. Was the sealant used under the cylinders or, God forbid, under the heads? 4. Is the smoke blue or black?
1. Since I changed the entire piston, now the oil will spit out, because you have to wait until the rings rub against the cylinders. 2. If the carburetors are not adjusted correctly, then replacing the piston will not cure the disease. 3. Black smoke indicates that the carburetors are not adjusted correctly; in this case, the mixture is too rich. 4. The breather will smoke when overheated, because evaporation of overheated oil escapes into it (white smoke). And as a result, if the piston is not run-in, a large amount of gases escape from the combustion chamber.
Well, let's say everything is as you say. 1) The piston engine that was in place before the replacement was in quite tolerable condition; it had at least 1000 km on it in the gentle mode; the mirror was packed perfectly without scuffing, but the oil was still flowing smoothly. 2) With a rich mixture, it cannot heat up as much. Of course, I went through the engines more than once or twice, but this is the first time.
1. Full running-in 2,500 km. Let's draw conclusions. 2. Why can’t it get so hot when the mixture is rich? It very well may.
Rebuilding a motor and setting it up correctly are two different things.
