How to change a chain in a moped engine

How to tighten a chain on an Alpha moped: step-by-step instructions with photos and videos

replacing a Gm chain in an ALFA moped
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Chinese, what else can I say)) everything is elementary and for idiots)) I remember my first moped setup 16 here, which was complete idiocy

Did you have a retreat? the hands are shaky)))

pizdaaa, well, you and the repairmen, you could remove the engine and at least wash it

Hello! The rubber cuff under the cylinder fell out and you tightened

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replacing a Gm chain in an ALFA moped

Spare parts for scooters in Belarus Online store in Belarus https://scooterbaza.by/ Group in contact https://vk.com/scooterbaza.

Alpha 110 (Change timing chain)

They brought in a moped (Alpha 110) with a complaint about a foreign knocking noise in the engine, as it turned out that it was loose timing chain. Foam.

Replacing the camshaft tensioner and Delta timing belt

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Foam filter for Alfa moped https://goo.gl/MF6F3b Digital thermometer.

How to Change the Timing Chain on an Alpha Moped

Checking the time of Delta EX 50 mopeds Roman Khimchenko turned 2 weeks ago

And if that doesn't answer what to do

Vladimir Voronov 2 weeks. flipped over

Valentin Sidorov 1 month ago

Thank you for the video. Everything is described in detail and clearly in Russian. If you continue to make videos like this, I will be all for it!

Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago

This is good. )) And of course there will be new videos, just wait a minute.

Danila Pugacheva 1 month ago

no, we are not even where the head with the boiler is attached; two installed gaskets; This was spectacular; does not wake up the valve; it knocks gray when you turn on the starter, thanks a lot for the tip

Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago

So! Further, do not install two gaskets, it will not be better, the combustion chamber will increase due to a drop in power.

Danila Pugacheva 1 month ago

Hunter38767 3 weeks ago

And if you have 50 cubes. 72 cubic head and piston head. See, you need to change your head.

How to set timing marks on an alpha moped

Checking the timing belt by marks on the Delta EX 50 moped engine 1P39FMB (139FMB)
Comments from those interested:

Roman Khimchenko 2 weeks. reverse And if it doesn’t match WHAT to do

Vladimir Voronov 2 weeks. reverse Set it to match.

Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago This is nice. )) And of course there will be new videos, just wait a little.

Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago Yes! Another thing, don’t install two gaskets; it won’t make things any better; an increase in the combustion chamber will result in a drop in power.

Hunter38767 3 weeks reverse And if you have a 50cc head and a 72cc piston, then you need to change the head.

Hunter38767 3 weeks reverse Two gaskets are not allowed, look, the valves may be overtightened, unscrew the two caps on the head, and look at the gap, it should be 0.05 on the feeler gauge. But if they hit the piston, then there is no gap.

Sergey Vasiliev 1 month back Vadim, thank you, I read a lot of useful information, thank you, I will be glad to see new videos on alpha, I’m really looking forward to it

Arkady Novoselov 1 month back, well done, thank you for you!

Replacing the camshaft and timing tensioner on a Delta moped

Chinese moped

. There was a strong knocking sound in the engine.

Although office dress codes are becoming more casual, it's still nice to feel smart and dress appropriately when heading to work. How to change a chain

timing belt? The timing belt of the VAZ 2106 will, just like it, hit the rack on the side member. How. This is why wearing jeans for your nine-five can be challenging. Replacing the air filter on an alpha (Orion 50v) how to remove and insert the air filter on an alpha moped video. So how to do this? Trilogy Stores, luxury denim retailers of straight cut jeans for women, give us some insight: Styling Jeans If you're new to wearing denim to work, or your office isn't very relaxed, you can play around with black denim. Worn with a patterned shirt, tucked in with high-waisted black jeans can create a more suitable look than black work pants. The high-waisted element of jeans can lengthen your legs. perfect for when you settle into your favorite pairs of heels. Buy a pair of black jeans with a playful hem to add an edge to your outfit that's still smart. Coulotters are super popular this season, and there's no reason why you can't bring the trend to the table. Black or brunette denim jeans paired with a chic blouse, oversized jacket and voyeuristic plaid. This is an outfit that will look summery but work appropriate. Wear your blouse to dress up your suit and add heels when heading out for after-dinner drinks. Likewise, cut-off leg jeans are suitable for the warmer months and a pair of wells with loafers and a comedy combo. If you want to add something but don't want it to be too loud, choose a pastel palette. Lilac or blue. Classic blue skinny jeans don't have to look casual either. With a white sleeveless shirt and a trusty blazer, you can create a fashionable ensemble that is anything but boring. Before replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2110, be sure to read this article. This will help you do the work yourself correctly and quickly. Slide on your spot pumps and get moving. Don't forget about white jeans, they can be styled to be work-appropriate. Worn with a dark or pastel shirt, white denim can be work-appropriate. Choose a pair with a thin stem for an elegant, summery look.

SCOOTER. ENGINE TIMING GEAR ASSEMBLY (50CC)

ATTENTION!

The cylinder head gasket is made of soft metal (copper, aluminum) and after tightening the cylinder head nuts it is deformed, thereby ensuring a tight connection. Reinstallation of the cylinder head gasket is not permitted. 2. Install the timing chain guide. 3. Install the cylinder head. 4. Set the piston to TDC according to the marks on the flywheel. This is usually the "T" mark on the flywheel. Align the mark with the tide on the engine crankcase.

ATTENTION!

The following operation is one of the most important when assembling the engine. It is important to align all the marks very accurately. An error in installing the chain even by 1-2 teeth will result in the engine not working correctly, and it will probably even lead to serious damage to the timing and cylinder-piston gas parts when trying to start the engine! 5. After making sure that the timing chain has not jumped off the drive sprocket on the crankshaft, install the camshaft into the cylinder head, at the same time putting a chain on its sprocket so that the marks on the camshaft sprocket are parallel to the plane of the edge of the cylinder head, and the cams are directed downward (inside the head).

6. Install the rocker arm support, orienting it according to the installation marks. Lubricate the cams and camshaft bearings.

On the rocker arm support are the letters “EX” - which means “EXHAUST” - release. The "EX" mark should be located above the exhaust valve.

ATTENTION!

• Check the correct axial alignment of the camshaft (make sure that the camshaft bearings are correctly positioned on the beds). It is likely that on some scooter models there will be an “IN” - “INTAKE” - inlet mark on the holder. Accordingly, the “IN” mark must be located above the inlet valve.

ATTENTION!

If the copper washers are severely deformed (flattened), they must be replaced, since if the washers do not fit tightly due to oil leakage, the pressure in the lubrication system will drop and the motor will quickly fail. Sealing this connection with any sealant is unacceptable. 7. Install sealing copper washers on the studs. 8. Screw on all four cylinder head nuts without tightening them. 9. We recess the working rod of the timing chain tensioner inside the housing. 10. Reinstall the timing chain tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts.

11. Insert the working bolt and the timing chain tensioner spring, tighten it. In this case, you can hear characteristic clicks - the ratcheting mechanism of the tensioner working rod will be activated, which, under the influence of a spring, will come out of the housing and tension the timing chain.

12. Sequentially, crosswise tighten the cylinder head nuts in 3-4 steps. The final tightening torque is 10-15 Nm (More accurate values can be found in the repair instructions for the specific scooter model). 13. Screw in and tighten the additional cylinder head bolts. 14. Using a socket wrench for the central bolt of the flywheel, or with your hands holding the flywheel, slowly turn the engine crankshaft clockwise 3-4 turns to make sure that the timing timing is set correctly and the piston does not collide with the valves.

15. We install the crankshaft at TDC of the compression stroke and once again check the correct installation of the camshaft according to the marks.

16. Adjust the valve clearances (see). 17. Rotate the crankshaft several turns and once again check that the valve clearances are set correctly. 18. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten its bolts. 19. Place the crankcase ventilation hose onto the fitting in the cylinder head cover. 20. Install the cylinder cooling casing.

ATTENTION!

Do not forget to remove the paper from the intake manifold if you covered it from dirt during disassembly. 21. Install the inlet pipe assembly with the carburetor.

ATTENTION!

How to replace the timing chain in an engine

Having decided on such an action as replacing the timing chain of a scooter, you need to decide on how to implement your plan.

There are two replacement options:

How to change, everyone decides for themselves. Both methods, advantages and disadvantages are described in detail below.

With disassembly

You should choose the right tools - generator and variator pullers (you can make them yourself), a kickstarter sprocket puller, 8, 10, 12 and 17 mm sockets, a hammer, two screwdrivers (flat, Phillips).

The engine is removed from its place, the oil is poured out, all parts are wiped and cleaned. Next, remove the muffler and cooling casing. We remove the generator only with a puller. To do this, unscrew the bolts from the impeller and remove it from the rotor. It is necessary to fix the rotor with a puller and unscrew the nut. Then we tear the rotor off the crankshaft journal. Remove the variator cover. Also, secure the impeller with a puller, unscrew the nut, and remove the variator from the axle.

Below the variator is the kickstarter gear. Likewise, a puller is required for it. Then we clean the cylinder connector, valve covers and cylinder head. After unscrewing the bolts on the valve covers, remove it. Next, remove the scooter's timing chain tensioner. After unscrewing the bolts on the cylinder head, we pull out the camshaft bed.

Next, remove the chain from the camshaft and pull it out of bed. To avoid losing the guide bushings that center the parts relative to each other, you need to remove them and put them away. We remove the cylinder head, the cylinder itself, and the piston (to do this, remove the retaining ring and pin from the upper connecting rod head).

After unscrewing the bolts on the crankcase cover, tapping it a little, remove it from the engine. We take out the starter intermediate gear, use a screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew the overrunning clutch nut (clockwise) and remove the gear and housing from the trunnion. We reached the chain!

Remove the protective shield from the oil pump. Place a metal stick under the chain, twist the nut on the oil pump sprocket, remove it and remove the chain.

No disassembly

We take the following tools: a Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a new chain and a special puller. More details about it will be below. We flare the new chain - to do this, use a puller to press the pin out of the joint of the links, but not completely.

A little about the puller

It is called a timing chain puller. It can be made by a turner by turning a threaded extruding pin and rolling a strong pin into it with a diameter similar to that of a chain pin. You can purchase a ready-made bicycle one. Just narrow the pin a little to the desired size.

Remove the cooling casing from the scooter engine, then the cylinder head cover. Next you need to remove the chain tensioner. We remove the camshaft bed, take out the shaft, remove the star.

We take the puller, center it with the pin, and gradually press out the pin. You can press it out completely, it will not be useful. We compare the links of the new and old chains, thread the wire into the seat of the pin and fix the ends of both chains. We turn the cooling impeller counterclockwise, gradually replacing the old chain with a new one.

Then we separate the ends of the chains, throw out the old one, and combine the new links from the ends. We check the alignment, install the pin, and use pliers to carefully press the pin in so as not to damage the new chain. We first check the mobility of the links. We finalize the pin with a puller. Again we control mobility. This point is very important: if you install the pin unevenly and miss it, it will begin to rest against one of the links and squeeze out the next one.

As a result, the subsequent pin or link bends, causing it to jam and become immobile.

Next, we assemble the engine in reverse order, placing marks on the rotor. When installing the camshaft bed, after tightening the nuts, you need to check the valve clearances with a feeler gauge. Upper valve – inlet: 0.05mm, lower – exhaust: – 0.1. The feeler gauge should fit freely between the valve and the adjusting bolt.

Then install the chain tensioner. We unscrew the bolt on the top of the tensioner, install a screwdriver in the groove, and, turning it, push the rod back. We fix everything else back according to the diagram.

Source

Preparatory work

It is imperative to clean the chain, otherwise tensioning will not work. There is grease on metal surfaces, and dust accumulates on top over time. These contaminants cannot be washed off in ordinary water; you need to use auto chemicals. It is better to choose a product in the form of an aerosol that will not corrode the seals - chain O-rings

If the mechanism is heavily dirty, it is advisable to remove the cover from the drive sprocket. It is important to ensure that the retaining nut is well tightened. The cleaning itself is carried out as follows:

Cleaning the moped chain Now you need to determine the degree of wear of the elements. The chain links should not jam, ideally they move easily. It is also necessary to check the presence and condition of the seals. The sprocket teeth must not be bent, pointed or damaged. Wear on the tooth surfaces may be associated with improper installation of the rear wheel.

To determine the condition of the chain, you need to check whether there are areas where the tension is too high or, conversely, weak. To do this, you need to manually turn the wheel. If such areas are present, it means that the bushings and pins have worn unevenly. In this case, the distance between the pins increases and the chain becomes longer.

Severely worn chain

Often the cause of the appearance of sections with different tensions are problems with other components of the moped. The sprockets may be installed with an incorrectly centered hole or the wrong diameter. Uneven tension may be due to severe wear on the wheel hub or failure of the sprocket hub bearings. But other damage may also be discovered, so it is important to carry out a thorough inspection.

It is easy to determine the degree of wear by the length of the chain. To do this you need to pull it back. It is important to try to pull the chain off the sprocket at the same time. Replacement is required when, when attempting to remove, most of the sprocket tooth becomes visible. If the chain rollers are bent and squeak when driving, it is better to change the part along with the sprockets.

After cleaning, you need to align the rear wheel. This is an easy task if the axis is marked. But the marks sometimes get confused, so additional checking is necessary. As the rear wheel rotates, you need to shine a flashlight and pay attention to the chain. If it does not move straight, it means the installation was not done correctly.

Valve adjustment on Alpha

I want to touch on an interesting topic that everyone has heard about, but not everyone understands its essence - let's talk about valve adjustment.

A little theory.

First, a little theory. Where did the need to adjust the valves come from and why is the thermal gap needed?

Any four-stroke engine has at least two valves: an intake valve, through which the working mixture enters the combustion chamber, and an exhaust valve, through which exhaust gases exit. Part of the valve is constantly located in the combustion chamber and therefore the valve becomes very hot. And as we know from school physics courses, bodies expand when heated. Moreover, the stronger the heating, the greater the expansion.

The valves in the engine are always in a “spring-loaded” state, while the valve plate is pressed very tightly to its seat - the valve seat. This ensures that the valve closes tightly.

To open the valve, you need to press on it. In our case, the valve is pressed by a rocker arm, which moves under the influence of the camshaft cam.

Now let’s imagine that the engine is cold (it stood for several hours and all the parts cooled down to “room” temperature). If you start the engine, the valves will begin to heat up quickly and, as a result, lengthen. If you do not leave it room for expansion (the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem), then the moment will come when the valve will elongate so much that it will not fit tightly to its seat and will begin to leak gases from the combustion chamber. This leads to a loss of engine power and can also lead to overheating and burnt valves.

IMPORTANT: the gaps are set on a cold engine , when the valve has not yet had time to lengthen.

What happens if the valves are adjusted incorrectly?

Very often on various forums questions are asked: “What will happen if the valves are adjusted incorrectly?” There are two possible options:

Thus, too little clearance is much more dangerous than too much. It is for this reason that it is not recommended to set gaps “by ear” without feeler gauges. If there is a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve, there will already be a gap between the rocker arm and the valve, unless of course you clamp it with great force.

Why combine tags?

The valves must be adjusted in a position where the rocker arm does not press on the valve stem, that is, the valve is closed. When a four-stroke engine is running, both valves are closed at the end of the compression stroke, so for ease of adjustment, align the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the head housing. This position corresponds to the top dead center - the end of the “compression” stroke and the beginning of the “power stroke” and both valves are closed at this moment and can be adjusted.

By and large, it is not necessary to clearly combine these marks, because both valves close already at the beginning of the compression stroke and do not open until almost the end of the power stroke, that is, the valves are closed at least half a revolution. That is, there is nothing to worry about if you “overshoot” the mark a little, or if you don’t reach it a little (within reasonable limits, of course).

For some reason, some “craftsmen” in their video instructions combine the “T” mark on the crankshaft flywheel. It is not necessary to do this to adjust the valves. For one revolution of the camshaft, the crankshaft makes two revolutions, and the mark will coincide twice: once at the end of the compression stroke, and the second time at the end of the exhaust stroke (when the exhaust valve is still open and the intake valve is preparing to open).

What should the valve clearance be on an Alpha?

The intake valve clearance on most engines is usually less than the exhaust valve clearance. This is due to the fact that the intake valves heat up less. They are cooled by fresh air flows.

The thermal clearance of the intake valve for the 139FMB engine is 0.03 mm. For the exhaust valve, the gap is 0.05 mm.

To change or not to change?

Suppose you “overhaul” your engine: you change the seals, crankshaft, gaskets and other devices, but you doubt whether to replace the timing chain with a new one or not. If you doubt it in vain, change it for a new one at the first opportunity. And now I will explain why.

See for yourself: a chain has an average service life of approximately 18,000-20,000 km of a scooter (personal experience), approximately the same as the average service life of the engine itself. And for example, after driving 6,000 km, the crankshaft jammed or the engine leaked, or something else happened that requires complete disassembly of the engine. Naturally, you disassemble the engine, replace the crankshaft with a new one, and leave the chain, which by that time has exhausted a third of its service life.

And what happens? The chain, after 12,000 km, will exhaust its service life and become unusable, but the crankshaft and other parts will be in good order and you, like it or not, will have to again, because of the chain alone, half the engine. Is it necessary? The chain is a consumable item. Never skimp on it!

Source

When and why to check the circuit

Manufacturers recommend checking every 1,000 kilometers. Under intense loads, if you have to travel hundreds of kilometers per day, inspection is required much more often. But by installing a high-quality chain, the motorcyclist will be able to reduce the number of checks.

Just by looking at the moped from the outside, it is not difficult for a specialist to determine if the chain is not tensioned correctly. Such an error when servicing a moped can lead to a break in the chain during a trip. Over-tightening occurs quite often and, despite the presence of lubrication, leads to accelerated wear of the chain. As a result, the suspension begins to work incorrectly. Over time, the hub may fail.

A poorly tensioned chain also often causes breakdowns. When moving, it will fluctuate greatly, and as a result, difficulties will arise with switching speeds. The shock load on the gearbox gears and rear hub will increase. The chain can lock the wheel axle by wrapping around it. Such a breakdown can lead to a serious accident.

The transmission of torque from the motor to the rear wheel in Alpha mopeds is carried out through a chain drive. This mechanism uses two stars connected by a chain. The first sprocket is connected to the gearbox, the second to the rear wheel.

The degree of tension changes as the pendulum moves along an arcuate path by the length of the suspension stroke. When stretching, it is important to remember that there should be a margin of 2-3 centimeters in length. Maximum tension is achieved when the following elements are lined up:

Photo report: Replacing the rear chain of an Alpha moped

Torque chain transmission is always a problem. But low cost, ease of maintenance, coupled with low weight, and for a motorcycle - weight is a very significant parameter - outweigh all the disadvantages and the chain drive of the rear wheel, just like many years ago, is dominant in the motorcycle industry. And we are unlikely to get away from this in the coming decades.

As already said: the chain is always a problem. The infection is spreading and nothing can be done about it. And if only it drags on, it begins to eat the teeth of the stars and if it is not replaced with a new one in time, then it will literally eat the stars in one season.

Without going into theory, let's consider a classic case: the chain has stretched and requires urgent replacement. If you look closely at the picture, you will see that the chain rollers do not fit into the sprocket teeth. As a result, the chain rollers hit the sprocket teeth and eat it up literally in one season.

Some especially gifted people manage to cut their own exclusive teeth on such sprockets using a grinder. But we won’t suffer from such garbage today, but we’ll buy a new driving star (the driven one is still alive, it’s good for a couple of seasons), a chain and do everything like a human being, and not like a collective farm.

When choosing a new chain, consider the width and number of teeth on your moped's sprockets. Chains for Alpha come in different widths and lengths: some are wide, some are narrow, some are long, some are short. We will use a wide 428 for Z13 Z41 sprockets, and which one you will use depends only on your sprockets and preferences.

We install the pin on the footrest, if you have one, of course.

We remove the casings, the drive sprocket cover, unscrew the rear wheel/rear sprocket axle nut, and loosen the tension chains on both sides.

We look for a lock on the chain, unfasten it and remove the old chain. For tusks, the chain is always riveted tightly and in this regard I was unlucky: I had to go for the grinder B-)…

We push the wheel along the rear pendulum as far forward as possible, throw on a new chain, and fasten the lock. To prevent the lock from unfastening while moving, we place the latch so that its cut faces in the opposite direction from the direction of its movement. To avoid getting confused, do this: turn the wheel so that the lock is on top of the pendulum and fasten the latch with the cut towards the rear wheel.

We lightly tighten the nuts of the sprocket/rear axle, remove the stub from the step, pump the rear suspension several times and slowly begin to tighten the chain according to approximately the following principle: tighten the chain a little and immediately measure with a ruler how the wheel is.

If the distance from the wheel to the pendulum on one side is significantly less or greater than on the other, we calibrate the position of the wheel with the required tensioner. In this way, in fits and starts, we pull the chain to the desired condition.

We pull the chain until it sag by 1-1.5 cm. This will be quite enough. After everything has been done, tighten the axle nuts and make sure to adjust the rear brakes. Never forget about the brakes, otherwise you’ll end up slamming into a trash can or a similar deer.

For those who are still with us, I will tell you the old-fashioned way of how to easily and simply determine how much the chain is loose: take the chain, straighten it and hang it in a horizontal position. The looser the chain, the stronger it will describe the arc; the newer the chain, the more even it will be.

For comparison, I took two chains: one was broken, the other was just from the store: the broken one hung snot at almost an angle of 90 degrees, the new one sagged a little and that’s all. This is the way.

Preparatory work

Severely worn chain

After installing the rear wheel, you need to remember where the marks are located. If they are not symmetrical, this indicates that the marks were applied incorrectly. In this case, you can draw new marks on the reverse side of the chain with a marker. When tightening the rear axle, it is important to push the wrench toward the front wheel.

Setting TDC on Alpha

To start adjusting the valves on the Alpha moped, you need to set the top dead center. To do this, remove two covers on the rotor cover. Rotate the rotor until the T mark appears.

To accurately control this process, you need to remove the timing sprocket cover. To do this, on the opposite side you need to unscrew the clamping bolt, which can be unscrewed with a 10mm wrench. Remove the timing chain sprocket cover carefully so as not to damage the gasket.

The star has a mark in the form of a dot. It should be aligned with the mark on the head body.

To easily turn the engine mechanisms, I unscrewed the spark plug, reducing the compression to nothing.

Now you can begin adjusting the valves on the engine.

SCOOTER. ENGINE TIMING GEAR ASSEMBLY (50CC)

ATTENTION!

6. Install the rocker arm support, orienting it according to the installation marks. Lubricate the cams and camshaft bearings.

On the rocker arm support are the letters “EX” - which means “EXHAUST” - release. The "EX" mark should be located above the exhaust valve.

Setting the timing belt on a delta moped

1. Install a new cylinder head gasket.

ATTENTION!

2. Install the timing chain guide.

3. Install the cylinder head.

4. Set the piston to TDC according to the marks on the flywheel. This is usually the "T" mark on the flywheel. Align the mark with the tide on the engine crankcase.

ATTENTION!

5. After making sure that the timing chain has not jumped off the drive sprocket on the crankshaft, install the camshaft into the cylinder head, at the same time putting a chain on its sprocket so that the marks on the camshaft sprocket are parallel to the plane of the edge of the cylinder head, and the cams are directed downward (inside the head).

6. Install the rocker arm support, orienting it according to the installation marks. Lubricate the cams and camshaft bearings.

How to tension a chain on an Alpha moped - step-by-step instructions

To simplify access to the necessary components, first remove the rear left passenger footrest. The moped must be placed on the center stand. It is also advisable to unscrew the bolt and remove the exhaust pipe. If this is not done, the ratchet heads cannot be used.

Next, take two keys - 17 and 14 mm. You need to unscrew the nut to loosen the wheel axle. The nut is unscrewed, but not completely. With the second key you need to hold the axle on the reverse side so that there is a stop. If you don't hold it on the reverse side, the axis will spin.

Now you need to loosen the nut located on the other side using a wrench with a diameter of 24 mm.

Using a wrench with a diameter of 10 mm, tighten the chain tension bolt. But the tension should not be too strong.

The rear axle is weakened. You need to make sure that the teeth of the driven sprocket do not fall on the edge of the chain. To do this you need to spin the wheel. When the teeth come in from the right, you need to tighten the bolt a little using a 10 mm wrench. If they enter from the left, it is necessary to loosen it, and if from the right, then, on the contrary, tighten it.

Now you need to tighten the wheel axle with 24 and 17 mm wrenches. The second bolt is tightened with a wrench with a diameter of 14 millimeters. The chain is tight, all that remains is to install the left step and protection.

To properly tension the chain, you will have to align the marks on the sprockets. There are risks and sticks on the suspender. These marks are applied on both sides.

You need to try to ensure that the risks on the right and left coincide. If these marks are not aligned, the wheel will not stay level. Naturally, it will also spin incorrectly. As a result, the rubber will begin to wear out intensively on one side. Therefore, it is important to tighten the nuts on both sides.

For more accurate tightening, it is important to remove the cover covering the chain. Otherwise, there is a chance that it will be pulled too tight. After tensioning, the brakes may also need to be adjusted.

Useful visual video on how to tighten the chain on an Alpha moped:

Which drive chain did I choose for my moped?

photo by blog author

Greetings, friends!

Everything described below is my own experimentation experience. Therefore, there will be no references to “Uncle Vasya said” or “a neighbor advised.”

I will tell you using the example of my Chinese moped “Alpha”. “Chinese” vehicles do not have any special distinctive qualities, be they mopeds or scooters.

In rural areas they are now common because of their lightness. Its speed is quite enough to go into the forest for mushrooms and berries, it is lightweight (you can, without straining, move it “by the horns” through the mud). There are also disadvantages.

Of the minuses, I would like to note the narrow wheels - in the sand it begins to lose stability and throws, also on wet grass and muddy roads. You can get good at it.

Previously, I wrote a post here about which spark plugs are best for mopeds. If anyone is interested, you can read it at this LINK.

Drive chain for moped

To be honest, the family chain was completely stretched out in literally a season and a half. And this despite the fact that I was traveling alone. This arrangement did not suit me at all. Therefore, I had to study the range of chains in the store. I chose domestic production, but the links were wider than those of my native one.

photo of the blog author. The drive chain is original. Width approximately 13 mm

The wide drive chain looks almost identical to the Voskhod one. It fits step by step. I took it and didn’t regret it.

Maybe, of course, I was lucky with it (I got a good manufacturer, etc.), but during the whole season I tightened the chain only once. I am not going to install a rear tire with deep treads (like a “studded” one). It will stimulate the chain to stretch. I know this from the Voskhod-2m motorcycle that I had before.

photo of the blog author. New wide chain. 15-16 mm

At the time of publication of the post, I had been riding a moped with this drive chain for 3 seasons. I only pulled it up once. Well, maybe this year in the spring before the first trip I’ll take a look and tighten it up a little.

Catch up

By the way, I don’t put studs on the rear wheel like some people do. The original tires are still quite good.

And one moment. Usually, when changing the drive chain (I know this from Voskhod), both stars are changed. This time I deviated from this rule. The teeth are still quite decent. So watch your stars on your moped.

Dear friends! I do not impose my opinion on you, but only tell you about my successes and failures. Therefore, this post should not be taken as a call to action or aggressive, persistent advice. Each person has his own head on his shoulders. Think for yourself and decide for yourself.

Good luck to all!

Humor:

Anyone stuck in traffic jams doesn’t laugh at a moped!

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To change or not to change?

Suppose you are overhauling your engine: changing oil seals, crankshaft, gaskets and other devices, but you doubt whether to replace the timing chain with a new one or not. If you have any doubts, change it for a new one at the first opportunity. And now I will explain why.

And what happens? The chain, after 12,000 km, will exhaust its service life and become unusable, but the crankshaft and other parts will be in good order and whether you like it or not, you will have to halve the engine again, because of the chain alone. Is it necessary? The chain is a consumable. Never skimp on it!

Personally, I never check timing chains. I simply throw them in the trash, no matter how awesome they seem to me. A chain is a consumable item for me, just like a spark plug, oil or oil seal. But if you are important, or money is tight, you can use the old fashioned way.