How to hang a motorcycle without rolling

Please share your experience on how to hang the front or rear wheel on a Ural-Wolf motorcycle. No assistants. What equipment do you use?

We use a side step.

Saw. On the Wolf the mufflers are lower than the swingarm.

Well, “I don’t know how it is in Moscow, but here in Russia,” I hang it in front with the help of a central stand and a rolling jack under the crankcase. ))

Or using a conventional, hydraulic, 5 ton capacity. )))

It won't fit under the mapped.

After all, you have a very tall matsatykl.

Along the way, I have. ))) True, I don’t have a “wolf”.

Z.Y. I'm a dumbass. He answered in the wrong place. The answer was to your own message below.

Roll under a motorcycle, cheap and cheerful. I have a chopper one, in the form of a frame with a handle.

Good stuff, but it seems to me that they all require removing the mufflers.

The simplest way without using special equipment. and expensive tools from the arsenal of the Zhiguli driver. A short board is selected in size so that it fits between the muffler pipes from below, but is also placed on both lower frame pipes just in front of the center stand mount. Thus, the platform for the jack is ready. Holding the board, we support it by spreading a diamond-type screw jack. When folded, its height is the smallest that exists, and it lifts up high. It is better to lift with an assistant or by yourself and lift and hold the motorcycle. The butt rises. To raise the front, use a board under the pallet and the same thing.

That is, in the original position the motorcycle is standing on the side stand, and in the raised position on the base of the jack and the front wheel? I think this is very dangerous.

In the original mode, the bike stands without pegs, it just sits straight. That’s why you need an assistant to hold it while it rises. The motorcycle will not stand on its own without fixation. For a stable position, either the central footrest is folded onto boards placed at the required height or something like hemp is substituted.

Never mind the problems)))) Move to the central hub, lift a regular trapezoid-type shovel jack under the crankcase in front until the rear wheel hits the floor and thereby fixes the motorcycle (Wolf in this position stands like a glove. The horseradish drops.). Then from this position you can even disassemble the entire face.

how-how, your nickname speaks for itself, but in Russia how is everything done?) that’s right, through her darling)

Install the lift seat so as not to damage the oil filter and hoses running under the engine.

This is a simple and effective way. It requires 2 devices: a basic motorcycle lift and a height-adjustable pyramid car stand.

Set the height of the lift frame required to hang the front wheel.
Place a lift under the front of the engine and raise the front wheel.
Set the rack height required to hang the rear wheel.
Lift the rear of the motorcycle with your hand (it is no longer heavy at all, the weight has been transferred to the front). Place a stand under the pendulum crossbar.

How to hang a rear wheel using improvised means

Method 1

Place the motorcycle on the side stand.
Place something under the right arm of the pendulum, selecting the full height.
Place a jack under the left arm of the pendulum.
Use a jack to raise the left arm of the pendulum, placing the motorcycle in a vertical position.

Method 2

Place the motorcycle in an upright position with something underneath the side stand.
Place a platform under both arms of the pendulum and a jack under it.
Use a jack to raise the pendulum slightly.

Harley-Davidson knows how to properly lift a fallen motorcycle: video instructions

In most of Russia, the motorcycle season has long ended, but there are places in our vast country where motorcyclists feel at ease even in winter. There, if snow falls, it is considered force majeure. We are, of course, talking about the south of the country: where the city of Sevastopol, the city of Sochi and other southern Meccas for motorcyclists are located, where ride two-wheeled vehicles most of the year.

But, despite the favorable climatic conditions, bikers should not relax here either. After all, you never know what can happen along the way; an emergency situation can easily turn into a real accident. This means that the motorcycle will end up on its side. And it’s also good if only the hardware suffers, and not the rider. But here a pressing question immediately arises: how to lift a fallen bike? Harley-Davidson explained how to lift even a heavy motorcycle. It is interesting that even a fragile girl can cope with such a task. So let’s remember it and remember it!

First , make sure the engine is turned off. This may seem obvious, but a person is often disoriented after laying the motorcycle on its side, it may not be clear to him. This way you will prevent engine overhauls due to oil starvation.

Step two. If the motorcycle falls on the right side, lower the stand. This will save you if you overdo it a little when climbing, and the bike starts to fall on the other side too much. If the fall occurs on the other side, where there is no stand foot, control the lifting of the motorcycle more carefully, watch the lifting angle.

The third important detail is to make sure that the gear is engaged. This way, your bike won't leave you anywhere once it's on its wheels.

Attention! Ignoring any of these nuances may lead to another fall!

How to put a heavy motorcycle on wheels, even if you are a fragile girl?

If the motorcycle is lying on its right side.

Sit on the edge of the seat as close to the front edge of the bike as possible. Grasp the steering wheel with your left hand, and with your right hand, grab the frame or structural element from behind that will not come off, such as a seat.

We begin the climb. Important! Never lift the bike with your hands or your back. No force needed here. The idea is to lift the couch potato using the strongest muscles in your body—your legs.

Here's what it looks like in the video:

Video taken from YouTube channel Motorcycle Shows in 4k

Walk backwards with your feet until both wheels touch the ground. The bike will still be at an angle when this happens, so you're not done at this point.

Lower your butt to the center of the seat, grab the grip with your right hand, if you feel uncomfortable, continue to push the bike with your feet.

If you have a tall bike (or are too short), you may need to sit lower on the seat to continue lifting the bike further. Visually control the rise, and once the bike is upright, it will either rest against the kickstand, or, if the kickstand is on the other side, you can easily grab the standing bike and roll it to safety.

As you can see, with this lifting technique, the 7th grade physics course works for you. The simplest system of levers - and how effective!

Good luck on the roads! Don't fall and always stay on horseback!

A simple technique for lifting a bike

To return the two-wheeler to a vertical position, you need to use knowledge from the field of physics (a system of levers). This is the simplest method with which even a fragile girl can lift a heavy motorcycle.

Turn off the bike engine. The advice is quite banal, but after a fall or accident, many riders simply forget that their engine is on. This must be done in order to avoid oil starvation of the engine and its breakdown.
Lower the footrest (if the device is lying on the right side). This will prevent the two-wheeler from falling over onto the other side. But if the equipment is lying on the left side, then perform the entire operation as carefully as possible and monitor the position of the bike.
Switch on transmission.
Sit on the seat (closer to the gas tank).
Grab the handlebars and frame (reverse grip). Try not to handle parts that can be torn off.
Start walking backwards slowly. In this case, the entire load should fall on the legs. The back and arms do not take part in the “rescue” operation. You need to walk until both wheels are on the ground, but the vehicle is still tilted.
Move closer to the center of the seat and take a few steps back.

This is one of the most effective techniques on how to lift a motorcycle off the ground.

Methods for hanging a motorcycle

Hanging both wheels using a lift and stand

Install the lift seat so as not to damage the oil filter and hoses running under the engine.

This is a simple and effective way. It requires 2 devices: a basic motorcycle lift and a height-adjustable pyramid car stand.

Set the height of the lift frame required to hang the front wheel.
Place a lift under the front of the engine and raise the front wheel.
Set the rack height required to hang the rear wheel.
Lift the rear of the motorcycle with your hand (it is no longer heavy at all, the weight has been transferred to the front). Place a stand under the pendulum crossbar.

How to hang a rear wheel using improvised means

Method 1

Place the motorcycle on the side stand.
Place something under the right arm of the pendulum, selecting the full height.
Place a jack under the left arm of the pendulum.
Use a jack to raise the left arm of the pendulum, placing the motorcycle in a vertical position.

Method 2

Place the motorcycle in an upright position with something underneath the side stand.
Place a platform under both arms of the pendulum and a jack under it.
Use a jack to raise the pendulum slightly.

How to properly lift a motorcycle?

To hang the bike wheel, the rider will need a tackle. This is a special device for raising the front or rear of a motorcycle. Using the device is quite simple: place the device on the stand, fix the device, press the lever.

You can also use a regular jack to lift a two-wheeler. It needs to be placed under the engine and the height adjusted. It is important not to install the lift under pipes or other components that could break off.

Winter preservation

The steps for preserving a motorcycle described below are not an unconditional “guide to action.” On the Internet you can find a lot of articles on this topic, in which the conservation process differs from the one proposed below and is much more complex. The method described below seemed to me the most acceptable in my specific situation. I disclaim all responsibility for its correctness and universality.

For information on chemicals used in preservation, see Appendix 3.

Parsing

The best way to protect a part from corrosion and damage from frost is to take it home. Then, on long winter evenings, you can polish, lubricate and nostalgically meditatively admire. In this case, I stopped somewhere on the verge of paranoia. The photo below shows what ended up in the garage.

Recommendations and advice from experts

It happens that when lifting the bike, the rider puts it on the wheels, but cannot “press” a little and return it to its vertical position. This situation usually occurs with high or low two-wheelers. In this case, after lifting the equipment onto its wheels, you should move out of the seat a little and continue pushing it.

Also, experienced motorcyclists do not recommend starting the engine immediately after lifting the vehicle. This can lead to water hammer in the cylinders (if oil gets into them). After the accident, the two-wheeler should stand for 20-30 minutes.

Spring "revival". Preparing for the season

The list and sequence of actions for preparing a motorcycle for the season, described below, seemed to me the most appropriate in my specific situation. I decline all responsibility for their correctness and universality. Please also use the Honda VT600C/CD (1997-98) Owner's Manual.

For information on maintenance equipment, spare parts and consumables, chemicals used to prepare a motorcycle for the season, see Appendices 1, 2, 3 and the Correspondence Table for spare parts, motorcycle chemicals and tools.

It's finally time to open the season. But first, a number of measures must be taken to “revive” the motorcycle. You come to the garage, undress your horse and happily see it, clean and shiny.

Cleaning external surfaces

The fact that the motorcycle was so well preserved over the winter is due to the fact that in the fall you generously “watered” it with lubricant. Now excess lubricant must be removed, first of all from the engine and mufflers, so that the lubricant does not burn when the engine is first started. The universal lubricant spray can be easily wiped off with rags, nevertheless leaving a protective layer. This can be considered as the first approach to polishing a motorcycle.

Despite the protective measures taken in the fall, rust can still reach some places. In this case, it should be removed using a converter.

While the motorcycle is still in a semi-disassembled state, it also makes sense to inspect it for scratches and paint chips, which will then be impossible to reach, and, as an option, paint them over with auto enamel, and then polish them with a felt wheel on a drill.

To reduce the accumulation of dirt on surfaces, additional cleaning should be done to remove grease with polishes (for chrome and paint surfaces), and it is also better before assembling the motorcycle, at least to treat those parts of it that will then be hidden.

First engine start

We “unseal” the intake and exhaust, install the air filter and the battery, which was previously properly charged at home.

We check the operation of the carburetor starting valve drive (“choke”), if necessary, adjust it and lubricate it.

Set the fuel valve to the “ON” position. Turn on the ignition, make sure that neutral gear is engaged and.

Engine starting procedure

Depress the clutch lever (and do not release until the engine starts).
Press the starter button. “Twist” for 5-6 seconds, as soon as it starts to “set”, slowly pull out the “suction”.
If the engine does not start, wait 5 minutes and try again in exactly the same way.
If after 2-3 attempts the engine does not start, open the gas fully and press the starter. “Twist” for 5-6 seconds to blow out the cylinders.
Repeat the steps described in paragraphs. 1-3.

Sometimes it happens that there is a spark on all the spark plugs, the battery vigorously turns the starter, but the motorcycle categorically refuses to start. Most likely the problem is that the carburetors “dried out” over the winter. In this case, you can try to unscrew one spark plug from each cylinder (those that are freely available) and pour 0.5 ml of gasoline into the shafts from a syringe.

In most cases, the engine will start without problems. Steed is a very reliable motorcycle. And with proper conservation over the winter, absolutely nothing will happen to it.

Checking screws and nuts

Check and tighten nuts and screws if necessary. Correct or replace clamps, hose fasteners, harnesses and wires.

Review of the Kawasaki VN 900 Vulcan motorcycle

Before that I owned a Honda Shadow Slasher 400, but this season I wanted something heavier. The budget was about 400 grand, I didn’t want to mess with a used one, and the choice was between the new Honda Shadow 750, Suzuki Intruder 800, Yamaha Midnightstar 950 and, in fact, the hero of the review. The first one is too small both visually and in terms of engine power, plus the Spirit version differed from my old Slasher only in the larger front wheel) The second one is not bad, but again the engine is weaker than Kava’s. The third one was awesome, but the price was fifty dollars more than Kava’s (the others also let us down in this regard), plus air - I didn’t want to sit in traffic jams. In the end, I took the Vulcanchik (at a price of 414, they gave a 3 percent discount, and took it for 404, plus for nine, I immediately designed the arches from the dealer and screwed them on the spot).

The bike looks just super (outwardly it almost copies a fatboy Harley, however, like many Japanese of this class). There is a lot of chrome. Wide, plump, a little heavy, but quite comfortable - the fit is low. A very good seat, wide and moderately soft (I haven’t driven more than 140 one way yet, so I can’t talk about getting tired on long-distance trips). The dynamics are very decent (I read on the forums that due to the injector, the dynamics of this 900 can be compared with the Draga 1100 on carbers), in 6-7 seconds you can get to a hundred if you quickly work with your feet. By the way, there are huge footrests under your feet, which are extremely comfortable. The second passenger has almost no effect on the dynamics. The maximum speed is around 160-170 (I once gave 150, but I didn’t force it further, although there was a reserve), but without glass (as on any cruisers without glass, I think) a comfortable speed is no more than 120. The gears click predictably , neutral is caught instantly and without problems. A five-step is quite enough, although, I confess, sometimes for 120 the leg tries to stick in a non-existent sixth. Consumption is five liters per hundred (the tank is huge, as much as 20 liters - enough for a very long time), it eats a good 95 with BP - I don’t want to feed it with anything else. It sounds low, smooth and beautiful - plus the standard pipes are loud enough, they don’t whisper (although I still installed Cobra Speedster Longs, now the sound is simply loud and amazing, and there’s passive safety, after all).

Technically, I skated two thousand, and no problems. I had a thousand inspections done by an official - the only problem was that the antifreeze pipe was not tightened properly at the factory, and it leaked a little (unnoticeably). Tightened it, added a little - it doesn’t bother me.

I also gave it a custom tuning (see photo) - a 16-inch Baron Kong steering wheel (show off:) although the ride is not much less comfortable than the standard one, especially in traffic jams - before the mirrors touched the car mirrors, now I let the car mirrors pass under the steering wheel: ), the mentioned pipes from Cobra, plus the Cobra Fi2000R fuel processor and zero (to technically justify the presence of forward flow). I set the processor settings to 4-3-2 (if someone suddenly sets it too, it might help) - the already immediate chopper now pleases me with even better pickup (I didn’t notice an increase in fuel consumption).

In general, I am sincerely perplexed about the pricing policy of the other Japanese - since I got a lot of motorcycle for less money.

This is the first motorcycle, so this is a lame review, don’t judge strictly, but perhaps it will be useful for someone in choosing a motorcycle. So, I bought it 1.5 months ago. I sat down and drove off, everything was quite simple and comfortable. It steers normally, but due to the long fork, the “steer” is close to that of a car. The engine is 900cc - everything is very predictable, it doesn’t pull away. After the first hundred miles, I realized that there wasn’t much power, to put it mildly, and the engine was dead. But without a windshield you can’t travel fast – 100 km. at one o'clock it starts to blow away)

Row spacing is without any problems, but changing lanes in a traffic jam to another row is quite difficult (again due to the long fork)... Motorists are respectful and let you pass (thanks, guys), because the motorcycle looks very dignified and brutal... The sound is not exactly breathtaking , there is no powerful roar...

The seat is comfortable and comfortable, the steering wheel is also comfortable to hold, your hands don’t get tired, visibility through the standard mirrors is quite acceptable. The girl sits in the back somehow, but if the trip is long, she gets tired (it’s not very comfortable to sit on a small piece of seat for the rear passenger)... The light is poor, there are no problems in the city, but driving on a dark highway is uncomfortable...

The suspension is quite stiff, on a flat road - no problem, on potholes it breaks... Gasoline is consumed immeasurably, under 20 liters (due to the fact that it’s a break-in, and because I’m a sucker and often drive in a lower gear than necessary). I came to the following conclusion for myself: I really like the moto, but I had to take something more powerful...

What pleases:

- Belt! In general, it’s super, it runs according to the manual for 40,000 km and longer, it costs adequately, does not require maintenance, the power, like the chain, does not eat away, unlike the cardan. The cover completely reliably protects from dirt.

— Engine. According to my subjective feelings, it pulls a little better than the VN 800, but there is no “undermining” when turning the throttle sharply - it’s still an injector. In this regard, the 800 was more fun - I turned the knob and it was like I got a kick in the ass