How to convert an air-cooled engine to a water-cooled one

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How to convert an air-cooled engine to a water-cooled one

Message by uvat » 12 Dec 2009, 15:41
In various topics I answered questions about converting the Planet engine to water cooling, so I decided to put everything together. Minimum kit for conversion: PD-10 cylinder, PD-10 cylinder head, studs with nuts from PD-10, head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, gaskets for pipes on the cylinder and head, bleed valve on the PD-10 head (you can just use a bolt as a plug). The adapter for the carburetor is homemade. The exhaust manifold is homemade. Temperature sensor and device, there are two options: from VAZ-06 and UAZ, the sensor fits into the cylinder head or into the upper pipe, the latter option is more convenient.

We remove all casting roughness in the cylinder bores using a semicircular and round file; you can remove the tongue from the intake window (using a jigsaw). The piston, piston pin and rings are all planetary, we select the piston according to the PD-10 cylinder.

We use an electric pump from Gazelle.

The exhaust manifold is completely homemade, in my version the flange is made of 6mm metal, the body itself is made of a square profile 50502, a pipe is welded into it at the required angle (depending on the layout), but you can use the factory PD-10 muffler by reshaping it.

I used a radiator from a VAZ 10ki, but there may be other options (ideally a copper radiator from a VAZ-2121 or Gazelle). Forced airflow is carried out using a standard electric fan or by making a homemade casing and installing a motor with an impeller from a car interior heater (VAZ, UAZ). The choice of motor and radiator largely depends on operating conditions and ambient temperature. For example: when driving through a heavy swamp with a load on pneumatic tires at 1300, it is better to install a standard electric radiator blower, but when operating a caracat on a Bel-79 and in less severe conditions, a motor from the interior heater stove will be enough. To turn on the electric fan, we use a standard sensor located in the radiator.

The electric pump is driven by a sensor installed in the upper radiator pipe; in case of an emergency, you can install a toggle switch to force the pump to turn on and make a control light on the instrument panel indicating that the pump is turned on. The pump is connected to the water circuit parallel to the lower radiator pipe in order to take full advantage of the capabilities of the thermosyphon cooling system. Pump characteristics: Design designation 32.3780 Rated voltage 12 V Maximum current 4.0 A Created pressure 0.15 kg/cm2 Weight 1.15 kg The pump and electric fan activation sensors are switched on via a relay and protected by fuses. We select the temperature of the sensors individually, depending on the operating conditions. The use of a water cooling system on a caracat significantly increases engine life. There is not a significant loss of power (theoretically), but in practice it is not noticeable due to the large reduction in the transmission. This article was written more in relation to karakats; modifications on a motorcycle will have some nuances.

Source

Moto engine and forced cooling

As you know, any all-terrain vehicle with a motorcycle engine simply requires forced cooling. Since engines on a motorcycle periodically overheat in hot weather, and even more so when installed on an all-terrain vehicle with lower speeds and often higher loads.

On homemade all-terrain vehicles you can find engines from motorcycles : 1) Izh-Planet - common on light caracats 2) Ural , Dnepr - more powerful engines for heavy swamp vehicles 3) Izh-Jupiter - these engines are not often installed, but you often see them.

Well, first things first. To cool the Izh-Planet engines, you can install an electric motor with a fan, the on and off toggle switch for which is displayed on the instrument panel. Started up - turn on. This cooling scheme is quite common on light caracats. Also, these engines can be cooled by blowing from the SZD.

Opposites can also be cooled by fans on electric motors. There is a fan for each cylinder. Or you can remove the shaft from the engine and organize forced cooling directly from the engine.

Motorcycle engines must be cooled. Just imagine slowly crossing swamps in the summer on a swamp rover. High engine load and low speed will quickly bring your engine to a boil. You can find a bunch of different cooling methods on the Internet, but which one to use is up to you. Here I have given examples of just a few basic methods. Sometimes, to install cooling, you may need special tools for a car service, but many people use what they have on hand in the garage. Often this is quite enough. Good luck!

Source

Homemade water cooling on IZH Planet-5

Homemade water cooling for IZH Planet-5, made from a cylinder with a head from the PD-10 starting engine of the MTZ-80 tractor.

Greetings to all motorcycle enthusiasts! In this article, we will talk about a simple and effective method for making water cooling for an IZH motorcycle. Izh Planeta-5 at one time was considered a good motorcycle of the Soviet and post-Soviet period. The device was unpretentious, reliable and easy to use.

But the technique was far from ideal. It is not difficult to overheat an air-cooled engine. In this article I will write how to solve the overheating problem by installing a water cooling system on IZ Planet 5.

The coolant is supplied by an electric pump from the gazelle to the lower part of the cylinder. Then the antifreeze leaves the top of the cylinder and enters the cylinder head, from the cylinder head it further moves to the cooling radiator, and from the radiator back to the pump.

A three-row copper radiator for the VAZ-2106 heater stove was used as a cooling radiator.

Its performance is more than enough for this small engine. True, the system works without a thermostat, I don’t know how correct this is. On the steering wheel there is a small expansion tank made from a paint can.

“Extra” liquid is supplied to the tank through a fitting. The lid has a spring valve that releases excess pressure along the threads of the lid. The expansion tank looks primitive, but it does its job.

After installing the MT-10 cylinder, the engine began to sound like a tractor. We had to redo the exhaust tract and install a second muffler, as was the case on previous “planets”.

In general, after all this tuning, the problem with engine overheating was solved. The motor can be turned up to 8500 rpm without fear of overheating.

The Soviet motorcycle has gained the opportunity to exist in our days, moving dynamically on public roads.

Video review of Izh Jupiter-5 with water cooling:

Source

IZh motorcycles with water cooling and separate lubrication system

Topic author Vityok, 31.5.2010, 14:49

#1 Vityok

Message added 5/31/2010, 2:49 pm

I was just curious.

Has anyone used IZhi with water-cooled engines or with a separate lubrication system?

Nothing is impossible for a person, but the end must justify the means.

Behind the door, in the smoking room, the voices of Vasya Kravchenko and Panin are heard, Vasya is trying to retell some story, connecting words and sentences with the conjunction “fuck”. D. Koretsky, “Secret assignments”

#2 Rust

Message added 5/31/2010, 3:14 pm

Dropsy really helps a lot, but they just say the pump runs sometimes, but overall the motor is quieter. the temperature is stable, the resource is longer, in general there are more advantages than disadvantages.

As for the separate lubrication system, I saw one on PS (Planet Sport), the motorcycle is good, but this system is full of failures, many turned it off themselves and mixed gasoline into the tank the old fashioned way

#3 Vityok

Message added 5/31/2010, 3:19 pm

Nothing is impossible for a person, but the end must justify the means.

How to convert an air-cooled engine to a water-cooled one

Post by uvat » 12 Dec 2009, 15:41

In various topics I answered questions about converting the Planet engine to water cooling, so I decided to put everything together. Minimum kit for conversion: PD-10 cylinder, PD-10 cylinder head, studs with nuts from PD-10, head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, gaskets for pipes on the cylinder and head, bleed valve on the PD-10 head (you can just use a bolt as a plug). The adapter for the carburetor is homemade. The exhaust manifold is homemade. Temperature sensor and device, there are two options: from VAZ-06 and UAZ, the sensor fits into the cylinder head or into the upper pipe, the latter option is more convenient.

My faithful “water” “Jupiter”

There is hardly any need to convince anyone that paper filters have a significantly higher cleaning efficiency. It’s better to buy a filter element than to overhaul the motor once again. Instead of the L-shaped filter pipe from the walk-behind tractor, I installed a homemade one, made from suitable plastic cans and a piece of plastic sewer pipe using a hacksaw and a soldering iron. The housing was equipped with a suction pipe from the same pipe. All parts are fastened with a long pin with a curved steel strip with a cross-section of 12×4 mm. The tape attaching the filter to the crankcase had to be shortened in place, and a piece of rubber-fabric sleeve with a diameter of about 20 mm was placed under the filter. The resistance of the paper filter is lower than that of the standard one, so I raised the throttle needle by one slot. I rashly replaced the first element after 10 thousand km, the second one has already passed more than 16 thousand and the carburetor is not “rich” yet. There was no regular place for a pump on my Izh, so I attached a small pump from a Shkolnik bicycle next to the new filter (if you want to live, you can pump it up like that). It all looks like this (the gearbox drain pipe is also visible):

The gas cap has been leaking since purchase. The diameter of the gasket was two millimeters less than the internal diameter of the plug, and I made a new gasket from a gasket from a ZIL truck (although its thickness is too large). But neither a new gasket nor alignment of the neck end solved the problem. Then I decided to better center the plug relative to the neck so that the edge of the gasket did not reach the sealing edge of the neck. To do this, I cut out a ring about 8 mm wide from an old plastic flask of suitable diameter and put it on the outside of the neck. The thickness of the ring turned out to be small, so I put a second similar ring on top (I had to “steam” it in boiling water and stretch it). Now there are no comments about the traffic jam. The standard vinyl chloride battery drainage tube was bent, so instead I used a polyethylene one from a construction foam cylinder. I pushed the remaining foam out of the tube with a steel rod, stuck a long spring into it (you can use a cable sheath), poured hot water from the tap, bent it 180°, poured cold water on it and took out the spring. The tube partially straightened and turned out to be bent to the 90° I needed. Now it doesn't bend. I almost immediately installed the fairing and trunk of the BMN-1. And how timely! At the beginning of June of the same 2005, on the way from the dacha, I was driving around a traffic jam on the Minsk highway, due to my inexperience, at a speed of 50 km/h, I jumped onto a sloping roadside covered with transverse furrows, barely restrained myself from falling into a deep ditch... I don’t remember anything else. ... Then I remember standing near the motorcycle, and it was standing on the side stand with the ignition turned off and the gas tap closed! I lifted it on full “autopilot”! I remembered my name, what kind of motorcycle it was, and began to inspect the “material parts”. The right fork leg is bent and slightly dented the tank, the steering damper is broken, the mirrors are in different directions (but intact), the headlight is scratched (but also not cracked), only the fairing is broken. Everything else was saved by the right arch and the side parcel shelf. Izhevsk steel is strong! I have a headache, a slightly split lip, a severe bruise on my right ankle (my foot didn’t move at all, but I could lean on my leg), and there are scratches on my Belarusian “integral” helmet in the upper right part. I took out the tools, put the mirrors in a more or less correct position, started the engine with my left foot (it started smoking at first, but the spark plugs didn’t flood) and drove home at a speed of 60 km/h, with the headlight shining in an unknown direction and without a rear brake (I already have “ the brake pedal was low and I couldn’t press it with my bruised foot). So I rode in the twilight for another 20 kilometers. Then there were frightened relatives, trips to the doctors and three weeks on sick leave with a slight concussion... But during these three weeks the motorcycle was restored (I only had to buy a new fairing for 800 rubles and a used feather for 600 rubles - I assembled one from it and the bent one). So I went to cover my sick leave on a motorcycle (otherwise I wouldn’t have time to go to the factory clinic). When he rushed into the neuropathologist’s office with a helmet in his hands, the doctors were shocked... Having returned to normal life, he continued to improve his faithful horse. The new fairing included pockets made from halves of an old plastic canister. I love it when there are a lot of dial gauges so I can know everything about the car. (My father and I have additional devices in both his Moskvich and UAZ-Patriot). But not the tachometer! I sincerely consider it a racing gadget: the Izhevsk engine is not one of the quiet ones, you start by ear anyway, and you know at what speed to go in what gear. I installed a car thermometer, ammeter, voltmeter and fuel level indicator (I managed to install the first two before the accident).

Unfortunately, the design of the sensor bracket is not visible in the photo; it will have to be described in words: the “base of the question mark” goes from the neck to the right, a vertical stand from a thinner corner is attached to it using a short wide piece of corner, and the sensor is attached to it. The tank was connected to ground via a bronze plate riveted to its rear bracket and slipped under the mounting bolt. I connected the illumination of all instruments, including the speedometer, through an additional switch to the standard black wire (if driving is required by traffic rules during the day, there is no need to illuminate them). And to control the switching on of the light, I installed an additional control lamp. Subsequently, to save energy, I replaced incandescent lamps with green LED lamps. I note that the housings of the devices described must be connected to ground (even if two-terminal backlight lamp sockets are used), otherwise the devices do not work. He installed a car clock “to the heap”, there is no need to explain why. In all 5th generation IZHs, another “glove compartment” can be made inside the casing between the seat and the rear light. I made the bottom from the wall of a plastic canister. The bottom consists of two halves, one of them is hinged and serves as a lid. The bottom halves are secured to brackets, slipped over the bolts securing the rear light and the casing to the seat. The wiring to the rear light is secured inside the housing with clamps. This glove compartment contains things that are rarely needed on the road: a supply of rags, light bulbs, a voltage regulator, alternator brushes, a tire first aid kit. The front wing of the 5 Izhas does not protect well from dirt. I quickly got tired of constantly washing the motorcycle, and even washing the radiator bands and tubes. I made shields from millimeter steel, painted ML-12 and installed them. Beauty! And they protect from dirt and do not disturb the “wing line”. (The same photo shows how the brake cable is protected from dirt.)

Diodes without designations are a standard rectifier, transistors - with any letters after the designation. I secured the wires to the YA112A regulator with screws - if necessary, it could be easily replaced. This regulator honestly served for 14 thousand km, but then I found out that it has a high resistance in the field winding power circuit, which naturally reduces the power of the generator. I turned to Tolyan again and he made me a more advanced field-effect transistor regulator:

The coil in the diagram is the excitation winding. The light bulb control circuit has been preserved, only I replaced the ancient D226B diodes with more compact KD105. Now there are no special problems with electrics, but I carry a “Moskvich” regulator with wires with me – just in case there is a fireman. However, I still have to drive around the city during the day with the side lights on, otherwise the battery will run out (may the traffic police forgive me). And why, according to the UNECE Rules, are now equipped with economical daytime running lights on cars, but they are not provided for motorcycles? To drive an Izha to work, an alarm system was required. I bought a simple domestic one and installed it. Now just don’t forget to turn off the “mass” when parking for long periods! At the same time, he equipped the carburetor casing with a “secret” screw of his own making. I also made a “secret” for the seat latch. I changed the connection diagram for the emergency ignition switch - now it de-energizes it, rather than shorting it to ground. I still have a standard ignition, but this year, with Tolina’s help, I’ll try to make my own version of the system with an optical sensor and a variable OZ: I found everything I need on the website. In general, at one time in the motorcycle press many people complained about ignition failures in the rain. In the old “Modeler-Constructor”, someone even advised turning the bobbins with the leads backwards. So, even after driving 50-70 km in pouring rain, I never had such problems! Perhaps the presence of a fairing and radiator affects it. I replaced the standard sound signal with a car one from a VAZ-2106, installed a relay so as not to overload the button and... I was disappointed - the sound volume was almost the same, but the current consumption was twice as much. I don't recommend this modification to anyone. By the way, the standard signal from the motorcycle still works properly on the Moskvich. Somehow I discovered a bad contact in the ignition switch. I discovered it simply: I turned on the ignition and measured the voltage at different points with a voltmeter. I took off the lock, carefully bent the folding (at the same time a piece of zinc alloy flew right into my eye, miraculously everything worked out - be careful!) and saw a “funny” picture. The contacts were fused into the bottom anyhow, all not in the same plane, dirty. Marriage makers, oh I love you! I put a fine “sandpaper” on the glass, “marked” the plane of the bottom and contacts on it, cleaned the moving contacts, and assembled them. Works. By the way, before the castle was repaired, the candles always had some kind of gray color. And after the renovation they themselves turned brown. Yes, and a little more about electrics. Once, after a night trip, I discovered that the housing of the Zhiguli cylindrical fuse had melted, and the spring tension of the holder was completely removed. I imagined searching for a similar defect on the road in the middle of the night and immediately installed modern “knife” fuses. Moreover, there was a period when the fuse burned out with enviable consistency. I checked everything, installed a fuse of a higher rating... And when I removed the generator stator, I saw... One of the turns of the winding was carelessly laid and the rotor was touching it. Bring Lyapkin-Tyapkin here. Bent it, of course. In general, my Izh is used mainly as a utilitarian vehicle. In my opinion, many people now unfairly consider a motorcycle a dangerous toy (at least in Moscow). But in a large city it is an excellent “anti-traffic” means, unless, of course, you attach a stroller to it and turn it into a surrogate for a car. And if you don’t rush twice as fast as the stream. And even Smart can’t compare with it in terms of fuel consumption... So most of my motorcycle’s mileage comes from trips around Moscow and to the country. I managed to travel a little on it only once, but is it really a long-distance trip - from Moscow to Rybinsk and back in two days? True, I was traveling with a 100-kilogram passenger and 35 kg of cargo. I couldn’t find like-minded people to travel with; This year I’m going to VSIZH-2011. But I have a decent amount of experience traveling by car... As you know, driving on business without panniers is inconvenient (I’m not talking about traveling at all). At least some little thing has to be carried constantly. First, I bought rubber shock absorbers with hooks and knitted nets out of them, and assigned the function of a trunk to a passenger helmet tied to the trunk. But one day an incident occurred: I brought a bag of apples to work and found it not under my helmet, but hanging on my license plate! The bag gradually, one apple at a time, leaked between the bars of the trunk... So I was “ripe” to first buy a central trunk. I bought a 25-liter Taiwanese “Ty-tk” with a brake light (about 3,000 rubles) and, after a little tinkering, attached its base to the trunk. I made it so that the case could not be unscrewed without opening it. For this purpose, I used bolts with semicircular heads and square supports, and access to the nuts was blocked by the case itself. But this seemed not enough to me and in the fall of 2008 I decided to buy luxurious 40-liter Hepco-Becker side cases (RUB 13,500 per pair). To install them, I had to modify the trunk quite a bit.

Material – steel pipe O16?1.5. Oh, and I suffered a lot while I cooked it all! Firstly, at that time I was just mastering the craft of a welder (while I was doing it, I learned). And secondly, such tubes, for good reason, need to be welded “semi-automatically”, but I did everything with an O2 mm electrode. You overlooked it a little and you burn through the wall - then paint it a millimeter at a time and clean it up! But I’m very pleased with the result. The panniers are securely fastened with their own locks, and they do not hang in a cantilever, as their designers intended, but rest with their bottoms on the trunk shelves, which increases the load capacity. We even managed to keep the standard side handle on the motorcycle - without it, putting the Izhak on the center stand is not easy, and the side handle is not always convenient. The panniers are located low, so it is convenient to tie a tent on top of them on one side, and a roll of sleeping foam on the other, without all this disturbing the passenger. The panniers are also easy to remove and do not interfere with the placement of a canister of engine oil. It is also important that when the panniers are removed, you can attach something else to the trunk. The engine did not cause problems very often during the entire run. The only major breakdown was that after a run of 3300 km, the upper ring of the right piston broke. The fragments of the ring flew into the muffler (the cylinder suffered little damage - lucky), but the groove in the piston was broken. I bought a couple of pistons (and at the same time I also bought the entire piston in reserve - it’s still lying around) and replaced it. And at the 26th thousand, the second piston from this pair came into play: I changed the gasket under the cylinder (antifreeze was leaking) and discovered a backlash in the pin in one of the bosses. At one time I tried to make a homemade intake manifold with reed valves from Voskhod-3M-01. The collector is assembled using soldering and rivets. Here he is:

I even installed it, started it and... almost ruined the engine. He started pounding so hard that he could barely drown it out. I turned off the ignition, yes, apparently at such speeds and the lean mixture the “heat” began. And I couldn’t turn on the gear - there was only a crackling sound... Frankly, I mentally said goodbye to the engine then. It turned out that there was a lot of air being sucked in. Then he gave up on this idea - there was an extra risk that the petals would collapse and pieces would fly into the engine. In addition, I was lucky with the standard intake manifold: it distributes the mixture evenly among the cylinders, so I removed the standard adjusting washer. For me, the engine is already quite powerful and economical: my average consumption is usually within 3.7...3.9 l/100 km. True, I drive quite smoothly, even sedately. I read in “Moto” that in the old “Jupiters” the left main bearing of the left crankshaft was fastened with a plate with 4 screws, and in the latter - only with a small “tongue”, due to which the tension force of the motor chain “turns out” the bearing and warps the axle and crankshaft cheek and accelerates wear of the connecting rod bearing. It was not possible to buy a plate, so I measured everything, made a homemade one (and not a stamped one, but a chiseled one, more rigid), drilled the missing three holes in the crankcase (okay, at least the factory savings didn’t cancel the tides) and installed it. The outer contour of the plate turned out to be sloppy, since I had difficulty cutting it out from the existing blank.

Source

Homemade water cooling on IZH Planet-5

Homemade water cooling for IZH Planet-5, made from a cylinder with a head from the PD-10 starting engine of the MTZ-80 tractor.

I would like to point out that this method is not a 21st century innovation. This was done back in Soviet times. This is a proven and working scheme. To install the cylinder from the PD-10 “launcher” onto the IZh crankcase, you need to make an adapter plate. The piston remains from the Planet, but the connecting rod is thicker than originally in the PD-10 cylinder. To ensure that the connecting rod does not touch the cylinder walls, it is necessary to expand the lower part of the liner. The wall thickness of the sleeve is sufficient to carry out such work. The coolant is supplied by an electric pump from the gazelle to the lower part of the cylinder. Then the antifreeze leaves the top of the cylinder and enters the cylinder head, from the cylinder head it further moves to the cooling radiator, and from the radiator back to the pump.

A three-row copper radiator for the VAZ-2106 heater stove was used as a cooling radiator.

After installing the MT-10 cylinder, the engine began to sound like a tractor. We had to redo the exhaust tract and install a second muffler, as was the case on previous “planets”.

In general, after all this tuning, the problem with engine overheating was solved. The motor can be turned up to 8500 rpm without fear of overheating.

The Soviet motorcycle has gained the opportunity to exist in our days, moving dynamically on public roads.

Video review of Izh Jupiter-5 with water cooling:

Experimental motorcycle IZH Planet-6 with liquid cooling, which you didn’t know about

We're talking about the little-known IZH motorcycle, which never went into production

I am sure that many of you have heard about IZ Planet-3, Planet-4 and, of course, Planet-5. It is believed that it was the fifth Planet that became the last model in the series, but this is not entirely true. There was also IZH Planet-6, which was not mass produced, and therefore few people know about it.

In fact, the new engine was a modernization of the previous IZH-P5-01. But it received a liquid cooling system, non-contact ignition, separate lubrication system and a five-speed gearbox. Here is a diagram of this engine in one of the repair books:

For some reason, the Russian press ignored the appearance of a new motorcycle model. Apparently, no one believed in the possibility of organizing mass production in difficult economic and political times. MOTO magazine made only a small note about it:

The sample, photographs of which were published by the magazine, was later purchased by one of the Russian motorcycle collectors and restored to its authentic condition. This is what the bike looked like before the restoration began:

And he became such a handsome man after all the work:

Aleksei43RUS told the story of the restoration of one such motorcycle in his blog. He managed to buy a completely new P-6 engine quite by accident (yes, I just found an ad on Avito). Having received it by a transport company, Alexey carried out all the necessary work to resuscitate it and installed it on his motorcycle.

This is how he describes his feelings from the first test ride:

It's time for the first departure. It wasn't particularly warm, it was a little dirty. Well, I really wanted to try the engine. Having adjusted the clutch, I went to the bypass. You can feel the piston from IZH-PS, it pulls like crazy. Well, compared to the usual engine from Planet, this one seemed more cheerful to me.

Air-cooled gas generator in the engine compartment

#51 motoras

Sorry, I don’t understand. Did you make an exhaust pipe with a water “jacket” or is it a “wet” exhaust?

Asbestos “burns” at first, this is normal, the binder burns out. But to prevent it from crumbling over time, wrap it in fiberglass, top it with sauna tape and that’s it.

Does anyone have experience installing an electric starter on similar units? From a scooter, or something else.

#52 stronov

Post edited by stronov: August 22, 2010 - 19:35

#53 Svo

#54 motoras

An alternative to asbestos is basalt-based thermal insulation. The top is insulated in the same way. Asbestos to ash - something that just doesn’t happen in the world.

I spent my entire life sealing the stoves with asbestos. And here it is. I was shocked myself.

But the collector needs to be cooled, even because the temperature difference will quickly kill any metal (unless, of course, the collector is made of ceramics).

#55 motoras

I have been using this design on an 8-meter yacht for 11 years now. But this year I will redo everything. My exhaust was made of titanium corrugation from rocket technology. It rotted and began to filter the water. I will replace it with a stainless steel pipe on water-cooled pipes. The plastic case is protected normally. The exhaust is under water. The fitting is a pipe in a stainless steel pipe. The upper edge is higher than the CVL. And the most important thing. I want to convert air cooling to water cooling. I'll make a shirt. The instructions for the engine say: do not start when the ambient air is more than 30 degrees C. And this summer it was 30 degrees even at night. And the engine actually stalled. I'm thinking of using a thermostat from a 25 horsepower Honda. By the way, I also covered the asbestos with fiberglass, and then with aluminum adhesive foil, but still, six months later I discovered a layer of asbestos dust in the compartment. And asbestos is a carcinogen. So you need to remove it from the boat immediately.

#56 Belomor

#57 Aleksk

If it’s a joke, then I laughed, but if it’s an exam, I invite you to check everything yourself.

#58 Svo

I spent my entire life sealing the stoves with asbestos. And here it is. I was shocked myself.

But the collector needs to be cooled, even because the temperature difference will quickly kill any metal (unless, of course, the collector is made of ceramics).

#59 stronov

Or maybe after 11 years it’s time to replace the generator? Completely different engines appeared. Mine has no temperature restrictions, it is written that it should be used outdoors (which I violated) and that’s all.

#60 Aleksk

The instructions indicate a motor life of 17,000 hours,

By the way, for a car this is a mileage of 1 million kilometers.

#61 motoras

The instructions indicate a service life of 17,000 hours, but it worked for me for 500 hours. The generator has actually already been changed. I didn’t disconnect it from the network and turned it on to the shore.

#62 grandfather

My generator has a service life of 500 hours. I think it's a good time. I made a shore-neutral-generator switch.

#63 stronov

#64 motoras

#65MM

Here I was feeling my generator after an hour of work. I stuck my finger into the hole between the soundproofing housing and the exhaust manifold, there are just the cooling fins of the cylinder head in the exhaust area - my finger didn’t get burned. It feels like about 70-80 degrees.

#66 Breget

#67 Svo

Post edited by Svo: September 01, 2010 - 18:13

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There is no USB Type-C port on the front panel
Noisy curve of the standard fan

The Thermaltake LCGS Glacier 370 is a stylish and minimalistic liquid-cooled PC in a snow-white computer case. Since this PC is made by Thermaltake itself, it's no surprise that it features a large 240mm Thermaltake ARGB cooler, three 120mm TT ARGB fans, and even Thermaltake ToughRAM DDR4 RGB sticks. Another interesting feature of this PC is that it comes with a vertically mounted GeForce RTX 3070 graphics card, which looks fantastic when viewed through the tempered glass side panel.

In terms of specs, this PC features the latest AMD Ryzen 5 5600X six-core processor, an AMD B550 chipset motherboard, 16GB of 3600MHz DDR4 RAM, and the aforementioned RTX 3070 GPU. For storage, it uses a 1TB PCIe SSD. , and in the power supply department you will find a 700W 80+ Gold power supply. This computer also comes with Windows 10 Home pre-installed, which is great if you don't want to waste time installing Windows OS.

How to water cool an air cooled engine

Post by uvat » 12 Dec 2009, 15:41

We use an electric pump from Gazelle.

Homemade cars

Home > IZ Reviews

The fifth generation Jupiter has a significantly modernized engine. The valve timing has been more favorably selected, the cylinder purging has been optimized and the traction and dynamic characteristics have been improved. The power unit of the new IZH Jupiter-5 motorcycle model copes better than its predecessors with increasing resistance speed, which is important when driving with a sidecar on country roads.

The maximum torque has been increased from 3.4 to 3.5 and is achieved at 600-900 rpm less than before. Although the maximum power, compared to Jupiter 4, decreased by 4 hp (from 28 to 24), the power at the most running, medium speeds increased slightly - by 2 hp. The rotation speed corresponding to the maximum power in the “5” model is reduced to 4800-5600 rpm at 5600-6200 rpm for Jupiter-4.

It is pleasantly pleasing that when fully loaded, IZ Jupiter-5 easily picks up speed and feels confident in higher gears, which allows you to switch them much less frequently than in its predecessor. This aspect will appeal to both rural and urban motorcyclists.

Fuel consumption for the single model is 5.9 l/100 km instead of the previous 6.2 and 7.1 instead of 7.5 l/100 km with a sidecar.

Changes in the design of the cylinders and the fins of the heads made it possible to reduce engine noise. In general, the unit has become more reliable due to increased wear resistance of the piston rings, improved crankcase sealing, improved kick-starter mechanism and ratcheting mechanism in the clutch drum.

Background.

It all started with the idea of changing a video card, something like 1070 from a gigabyte, the long one for 3 coolers)) Because. it’s long, my old case was already trimmed in order to fit the R9 270x from a gigabyte, so it was decided to replace the case with a more modern one (the old case is already 8 years old).

I thought - “why not replace the cooler on the processor?” My previous cooler, Scythe Katana 3 , seemed meager and dull compared to the new case!

I looked at what was available, read reviews and tests, the choice was between towers with 2 fans DEEPCOOL Neptwin V2 or Scythe Fuma Rev.B , dropsy DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX L120T or Deepcool GAMMAXX L240

Tests show that for your money this is a working option! But the opinion of some users was this: the stock fan is weak and has a flaw in the form of slits through which air escapes and does not go 100% to the radiator honeycombs!

I immediately replaced the stock one with two DEEPCOOL UF120 , installing them on both sides!

Tests and general impressions of the life support system

CPU temperature

idle (after warming up) - 50-52

in the stress test - 55-60 (seemingly quite acceptable)

in WOT at maximum - 62s (fans at 100%, take off)

Food temperature (as it turns out, this is where legs grow)

in the stress test - 65 (quite acceptable)

in WOT at maximum - 69 (fans at 100%, take off)

From the photo above you can see how the power radiator is closed on all sides and practically nothing blows through it! This was the first sign of the problem of cooling the system unit in general!

Next, I decided to read tests and reviews of fans for LSS; as it turned out, not all fans are suitable for hundreds of LSS radiators. After receiving new information, a fan for dropsy was purchased

The result is the same as with 2 DEEPCOOL UF120. The temperature at the processor's power supply dropped by a couple of degrees. The sound from the system unit has not changed, the fans are working at their limit!

Hence the conclusion - having originally purchased Scythe Katana 3 many years ago, I made an incredibly smart choice! )) But this is not only for this reason, I’ll tell you later!

Now I realized my mistake - LSS is not suitable for all motherboards and cases!

Next, I set out to look for a cooler that is somehow directed towards the heatsink of the processor's power supply; without thinking twice I chose Scythe Choten

Tests and impressions of SVO

CPU temperature

idle (after warming up) - 46-48 (silence)

in the stress test - 55-57 (excellent and not noisy)

in WOT at maximum - 60-61s (normal, fans at 70%, still comfortable)

Supply temperature

in the stress test - 60-62

in WOT at maximum - 63-65

It cools both the processor and the power radiator perfectly! Does not interfere with “high” operation. You can turn it over and cool the RAM!

As you may have noticed, the temperature has not dropped by much, but there is a huge plus - this is noise, i.e. Now, to maintain the temperature even lower than before, you need less fan speed! Because The fan speed settings remain the same; if you turn them up to maximum speed, I think the temperature will drop even more, but the noise will go beyond the comfortable limit!

conclusions

Cheap water cooling for a home computer is ineffective, especially with a single-section radiator. Its advantages are the removal of heat from the processor, with the direct blowing of hot air from the system unit, but this is if we talk about a 3-section radiator! Perhaps such a cheap dropsy will be suitable for unloaded systems, instead of a boxed cooler, with an installation tailored for modding.

A separate conclusion about the case - before this there was a narrow case, which made it possible for 2m 120mm fans to blow well over the motherboard components due to the narrow air flow! In a large, spacious case, the air flow is dissipated, thereby blowing worse at the motherboard elements. Perhaps such cases require special fans for purging the case, the price tag of which is 1.5k+, but this is not certain)) and I will never know about it))

Perhaps my article will help someone in choosing cooling) Good luck to everyone!

Best compact liquid-cooled PC: CUK Continuum Micro Business

Lots of RGB elements
Quiet operation
Powerful processor and 32 GB of RAM
Small trace
Keyboard and mouse included

Mid-range video card
Does not support ray tracing
Might be cheaper

Even though the name says "Business", the CUK Continuum Micro is actually a serious gaming PC, packed with features and powerful components at a relatively reasonable price. This compact mATX-ready PC features a custom-designed chassis and a smart layout that allows for maximum airflow for the best cooling performance. Featuring 6 high-airflow RGB fans and an infinity mirror front panel, this PC has a stylish exterior and interior design.

Under the hood of the CUK Continuum Micro lies a powerful 10-core Intel Core i9-10900KF processor with full liquid cooling and full overclocking capabilities. This computer also comes with 32GB of DDR4 RAM, one 512GB NVMe SSD, and one 2TB HDD to store all your games, videos, documents, and other data. In the graphics department there is a GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, which is capable of running the latest AAA games at high and ultra settings at 1080p resolution.

Air or dropsy?! Which engine is better?!

Greetings! My name is Alexey and I am the CEO of PITBIKECLUB.