Review of the Kawasaki Ninja 600 (ZX 6R) sports motorcycle

The Japanese motorcycle “Kawasaki Ninja 600” was produced at the Kawasaki Motorcycles factories from 1985 to 1995 and was intended for road racing. The car has distinct features of a racing car, and the powerful engine, which allows it to reach speeds of up to 280 kilometers per hour, leaves no doubt about the outstanding technical characteristics of the fast bike.

Model overview

The engineers have worked hard to put together a motorcycle that combines power and agility perfectly.
Thanks to the 600cc engine, this bike reaches a maximum speed of 280 km/h, but its low weight makes it agile on the most difficult turns.

Now a few laps on this bike have become an exciting ride at incredible speed.

In addition to ideal weight and excellent speed, the Kawasaki Ninja 600 received its main parameters from the Ninja ZX-6RR, which had previously been released in limited quantities.

So, let's get started with a detailed review of this racing car.

1. Frame. Most likely, even on the drawings, the engineers had an idea to create a frame with maximum harmony between a rigid landing and flexible control.

   Thanks to this design, at the beginning of a turn, synchronization with the steering wheel is absolutely maximum.

   To create such a balance, it was necessary to calculate the location of the pendulum and the position of the motor.

   The Kawasaki Ninja 600 ZX 6R has a frame made of a single unit, thanks to which the motor moves simultaneously with the frame. This design allows you to move all the weight evenly, gaining greater speed.

2. Engine. The main aspect of the engine is the slipper clutch. When making a sharp jerk on a turn, the pilot will not need to fear falling.
3. Suspension. In a motorcycle, the suspension can be adjusted depending on the type of road on which the bike will be ridden.
4. The brakes are powerful.
5. The landing is sporty.

Competition

The creators of the Kawasaki Ninja 600 set themselves the goal of designing a motorcycle that would have significant sprinting potential. Competition in the world of racing and sports bikes is consistently high, and although the Kawasaki brand is considered dominant in many respects, it has long been breathing down its neck with Italian sprint models like the Aprilia Tuono or German Motorrad sportbikes with two-cylinder boxer engines, which are capable of double your speed in circuit racing without crashing off the track.

Owners' opinions

We all know that no matter how beautiful the device looks, before purchasing it, you need to read the reviews of motorcyclists who managed to purchase the model they liked. Owners characterize Ninja bikes as a very fast option, capable of accelerating up to 180 km/h, so they recommend spending money on buying a helmet

Some car enthusiasts note the rather expensive spare parts for Kawasaki and focus on safety, because driving over 150 km/h can only be accomplished by experienced bikers. Others do not notice the shortcomings at all, praising the motorcycle’s fast acceleration and low fuel consumption

When purchasing one of the Kawasaki bikes, you must remember that you are getting a high-quality motorcycle from a reliable Japanese manufacturer that will be able to meet all your expectations, delivering only positive emotions from owning the machine.

What do the owners say?

Judging by the reviews from the owners of such bikes, there is little difference between a new version and a used one in good condition. However, even used owners still advise buying a new car if possible.

It is not always possible to fully understand how the previous owner used the motorcycle. And this affects its future condition, maintenance and safety of the rider.

It was noticed that the bike picks up speed well and passes through oncoming air flows, but its handling is not the best in its class. However, this is sufficient to enjoy a more or less comfortable and safe ride at not the highest speeds.

Owners also note that this bike has a convenient instrument panel, which is clearly visible in the dark and fog. No need to bend over to see the indicators

And this is critically important at high speeds, as is clear from any first-person video on a sportbike

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) is suitable for sports class connoisseurs. Especially if you like modern bikes and not the sports classics of the eighties. The car is responsive and expressive. But you can only do this after a weaker sportbike, so as not to get into a dangerous situation.

Review of the Kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja motorcycle

I bought it last year as my first motorcycle, by the time we got there everything was sold and only the kawasaki zx-9r was left. It was kind of scary to approach for the first time. Quite large compared to the 750 Suzuki GSXR. But there was nowhere to go. We loaded the bike into the Gazelle and drove home. Despite its age, 1995, the motorcycle is in good condition, the mileage was 50,000 km, and the price is reasonable. It’s very beautiful, I’m just delighted with its lines. I replaced the spark plugs, washed the filter, etc. For the first three days I only drove around garages, getting used to its power. A very large and frightening gap in dynamics when compared with the 400, but not as scary as it seems. Then I went free. I first turned it up to 6000-7000 thousand and this was quite enough for the entire stream of cars to remain behind, I was a little doubtful whether I had gone too far with the purchase, after all you could take 600k as a reasonable compromise. Acceleration is powerful and confident. When going uphill, where the car accelerates with great reluctance, the car simply takes off as if on wings. The gas is at the same time smooth and, when opened sharply, does not rise to the spark plug (not a fan of this) but breaks into the axle box and in 2nd is also easily and easily controlled. The fit is comfortable with my height of 190 cm, but after several hours I need to stop and warm up, my hands and butt get numb. Consumption in the city - the average pace is about 10 liters - I pour 95 in half with 98, so it’s noticeably faster. The suspension was clamped and after 180 the bike began to yaw. I made it softer and everything was fine. It holds confidently even after 200 on the same section of the road. I wanted to try the maximum speed. I accelerated to 260 - it was outside the city, the weather was windy and there were a lot of cars, I had to abandon this idea. I’m writing more for those who are planning to buy a powerful motorcycle right away, it’s not as scary as they write, but you need to approach this matter with a cool head, get used to the habits of the motorcycle and its behavior on the road (plastic, handles, etc. are not cheap), gradually increasing the speed. At first, be careful with throttle handle. I took it for evening shooting around the city. I have a car, but the wastage is a completely different matter, and I like to tinker with technology. I am very pleased with the motorcycle and for our city, with our roads, 900 cubic meters is quite enough. Sorry for the mistakes. Good luck to everyone on the roads!

Straight to the topic! Before that, I rode exclusively on products of the Soviet motorcycle industry, so during the first km I realized that the whole thing was in the throttle! It’s a little heavy for the city, but it holds the track perfectly, although this same track is not replete with longitudinal seams. The engine, as with all Kavas, is a little noisy, but the quality of workmanship is excellent, and it starts without problems even at +5 degrees. The landing is one of the most comfortable compared to other sports; 150-200 km without stops is not a problem. Despite the developed wind protection, after 140 km/h you have to lie down on the motor, otherwise it starts to blow away. Driving at night is not very comfortable, because there seems to be light, but it is not enough. Perhaps better quality light bulbs will correct the situation. In short, the bike is very comfortable (by sportbike standards), fast and beautiful!

Another season has arrived, and I’m opening it on Ninja (Ninka) in blue. He was very fresh for his age. The mileage on the odometer is 14,000 km and works like an imported watch without unnecessary noise. Leaving the garage, the asphalt is still cold and I carefully add gas to second gear, but Ninka turned out to have character, pulling the rear wheel to the side. The sun warms up the road surface faster and faster, after just a couple of hours you could try to drive with pleasure without any wobbles. At such moments, time does not pass, but floats in an ocean of emotions and joy. But we have to end a wonderful spring day due to work and everyday problems. A desire arises in my head to go on some short trip to see friends. It so happened that I had a free Friday. I had the weekend completely at my disposal, and it was firmly decided to go.

The round trip distance to the meeting place of friends is about 2000 km. I packed my backpack: matches, a flashlight, money, a knife, a set of keys, two balaclavas. After driving about 500 km I come to a section of the repair road. The road workers filled the entire surface with bitumen, which stuck to the wheel and scattered the entire mass around. Having passed this nightmare, I stopped on the motorcycle, there were bitumen pieces hanging and in one place the “hager” (the plastic casing above the wheel) burst. We drove further in search of a gas station, luckily for me it appeared on the horizon, I refueled until the tank was full. 750 km have already been covered, fatigue is making itself felt: my shoulders and arms are already aching. At the last push I reach my friend, who greets me hospitably. We talk at the table over a glass of beer, through fatigue and sleep. Morning comes, tea drinking and interesting conversations at the table. After a short walk, I begin to get ready for the return journey.

Departure, again a long and tiring road that seems endless. I get to my hometown at three o’clock in the morning, I’m just pounding with fatigue. I’m going home to get some sleep so that I can spend the next weekend no less interesting.

About the motorcycle itself. This model is very suitable for the city, and for the track, and for the highway - a very balanced motorcycle. Personally, I really liked it and left only positive emotions.

Engine. Very playful and dynamic. It works very smoothly and pleasantly, only my engine had the peculiarity of eating up oil, about two liters per 5000 km. It didn’t bother me at all, I topped it up and rode. Fuel consumption is on average 10 liters.

Brakes. Excellent at all speed ranges. I haven't found any shortcomings the whole time.

Suspension. Tough and collected. It's a pleasure to take corners and the fork doesn't bite at all when braking. The overhangs are all high, you can easily jump onto the curb.

Box. Clear and soft. You quickly get used to it, there are no gears until you engage.

There are, of course, disadvantages: the lack of a fuel sensor and the lack of an injection engine.

Exterior design of the sportbike

The Kawasaki Ninja 600 has an impressive appearance with a sporty style.

The first thing that catches your eye in the foreground are the high-brightness dual headlights.

The style is also complemented by the Ram Air air intake system, which is placed in the center of the bike.

Turn signals are built into the front fairing.

The wing at the front has acquired an aerodynamic shape.

At the rear, the turn signals are quite small and cone-shaped. The rear light is equipped with bright LEDs.

It precisely projects the shape of the rear fairing and is located high above the road level, which ensures maximum visibility of the motorbike on the road.

The instrument panel is made in a racing style and consists of:

• Gear adjustment indicator.
• Digital speedometer.
• Diagram tachometer.
• Digital thermometer.
• Stopwatch.
• Watch.
• Indicator lamps.
• Odometer.

In addition, it can be noted that the exhaust system is made of stainless steel. The sporty style is reflected in the passenger footrests.

The mounting panel was made in the form of a triangle with special cutouts. The bike frame has a black finish.

External data

The exterior of the Kawasaki Ninja 600 has a sense of solidity. The slightly humped contours of the fuel tank indicate a willingness to support the rider at the highest speeds, when he needs to crouch and lie on the tank to minimize air resistance. The whole appearance of the sportbike gives the impression of speed, it seems that it is about to take off.

The contours of the body parts are perfect and fit in with the other parts of the motorcycle body without the slightest strain. Harmony is observed in everything. The restrained growl of the engine leaves no doubt that the sportbike is capable of leaving all other racing participants far behind.

The front of the motorcycle is equipped with two powerful headlights; the air intake of the Ram Air system is located lower in the center. Front direction indicators are integrated into the front fairing, and cone-shaped rear turn signals are mounted on brackets. The brake light is located high and is very visible.

The instrument panel is digital and consists of a speedometer, tachometer, gear shift sensor, stopwatch, odometer and a set of indicator lights.

The muffler is a chrome-plated module of complex shape with perforations along the edge of the bell. Some motorcycles were equipped with direct-flow exhaust devices.

Ninja 250 wins the hearts of racers

This model from the famous Japanese manufacturer was destined to become both a sports and a traditional motorcycle for drivers of various skill levels.
Featuring a 249cc twin-cylinder engine producing 27.6 hp, the sportbike is capable of delivering 1.4 miles in 14.6 seconds. In addition, it is difficult not to note the significant advantages of the motorcycle, such as ease of control and low seat position. Comfortable movement on city streets on one of the most stable motorcycles is also ensured by the classic landing and a two-piston disc brake, which is characterized by high sensitivity to touching the brake lever. One look at this car, thought out to the smallest detail, is enough to realize that this is the most stylish and ergonomic motorcycle in its class.

In 2008, fans of the 250 model could notice significant changes in it, which affected both the technical characteristics and design of the motorcycle, and also influenced the increase in its cost. The developers decided to attract professional racers to their motorcycle by increasing the wheel size and front suspension. Innovations also affected the appearance of the motorcycle, which began to look more modern.

Notable Features

Among its competitors, the Kawasaki Ninja stood out with its strong chassis, excellent handling and amazing speed, thanks to which it practically destroyed its rivals.

In the eighties, 243 km/h was an absolute record for the class of road bikes.

In addition to its extreme power, the model was also distinguished by the phenomenal reliability of the DOHC power plant, which had four cylinders, sixteen valves and liquid cooling, as well as four carburetors, known as Keihin CVK4.

With an engine capacity of 908 cc, it produced 115 hp. s., and in the modification for European countries - 100 l. With.

Brief description of Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R

The 10R is designed to excel on circuits. To reduce lap times, the designers changed the chassis configuration. Engine power remains phenomenal. The aerodynamic qualities of the car have improved. The result is a serious, track-oriented motorcycle, designed for sports drivers of the “extra” class, looking for excitement in liter-class cars and leadership in races. Serious competition drivers will find the 10R an excellent racing tool.

More tractable power

A new fuel injection system, together with a set of measures to reduce friction, allowed the 16-valve engine with two overhead camshafts and liquid cooling to develop the same amazing power while remaining within Euro III emissions limits. Fuel injection system with 43 mm throttle regulators and two throttle valves, complemented by new micro-spray nozzles. Of particular note is the solid increase in engine power in the mid-range. Power delivery is more linear and acceleration out of corners is stunning. In addition, an improved gear shift linkage makes transitions smoother.

Race-ready handling

Featuring the best chassis in its category, the 2006 10R further benefits from a host of innovations to help the driver get through the trails even faster. The car's shifting center of gravity, stiffness adjustments, new engine mounts, increased mass concentration and a repositioned foot shifter combine to make the 10R an even more capable trail machine. The motorcycle also comes standard with a racing-type steering damper (Öhlins).

Racing parameters

The combination of a short wheelbase with a long foot shift lever makes the ZX-10R “Ninja” incredibly maneuverable yet stable in operation. The concave top of the fuel tank and the perfectly calibrated relationship between the footpegs, handlebars and saddle create an aggressive and compact rider position. The transmission's close-ratio transmission, slipper clutch, radial-mount calipers, petal-type disc brakes and fully adjustable suspension are all designed to make the 10R unbeatable on the track.

New "aggressive" style

One glance is enough - this car was “born” for circuit racing. No "frills" or frills. It looks like the most rational car in its category. The perfect example of functionality expressed in form. The new fairing significantly improves the 10R's aerodynamic performance at high speeds. New twin under-seat mufflers further improve its appearance and aerodynamics.

Motorcycle modifications

• ZX600F (1995-1997). The very first model in the line. Equipped with a Ram-Air inertial pressurization system.
• ZX600G (1998-1999). Restyling with new carburetors and improved front brakes.
• ZX600J (2000-2002). Modified and slightly strengthened engine, improved electrics and different wheels.
• ZX636A (2002). Modification with increased to 636 cc. see engine size.
• ZX-6RR (2003-2004). A different appearance and many technical changes.
• ZX636B (2003-2004). In many ways similar to the above modification, but differs in a different design.
• ZX-6N, aka ZX-6R 636 (2005-2006). Another restyling, increased maximum engine speed, power 130 hp. Engine capacity is 636 cubic meters instead of 599.
• ZX-600P (2007-2008). Return to the 599 cc engine, deeply reworked.
• ZX-600R (2009-2012). Updated design, new fork and slipper clutch. In 2013, production of a version with a 636 cc engine began in parallel.
• ZX-6R 2019+. It is a restyling of the 2013 model, differing mainly in appearance. Still in production today.

Specifications

The Kawasaki Ninja motorcycle has the following dimensions:

• Length - 222 cm;
• Width - 74 cm;
• Height (in the village) - 122 (79) cm;
• Wheelbase - 150 cm.

Its curb weight is 234 kilograms, and the gas tank capacity is 22 liters.

The frame of the GPZ 900 R is made of steel tubes and has a central spine. The chassis is made with a large margin of safety.

The UNI-TRAK suspension is equipped with a monoshock absorber. The gearbox is six-speed.

Technical characteristics of the Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R motorcycle (2007)

Trade code: ZX600P

Brake system

The brake discs are large here. Their width is 6 mm and diameter is 300 mm. They are made of stainless steel.

Thus, the brake force will be very strong each time you apply them.

It often happens that even experienced riders find it difficult to discern which gear is currently in use while riding.

To prevent such situations, the digital display is installed in a large size.

It is able to instantly display all the most important information for the rider - speed and gear number.

The ZX-6R model has cylindrical airbox guides. They help ensure accurate spraying from the fuel injectors.

As a result, better fuel atomization improves combustion efficiency. Accordingly, the engine output will be greater.

Brief history of the model

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America).
Factory designation
: ZX600-F1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America).
Factory designation
: ZX600-F2.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America).
Factory designation
: ZX600-F3.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America).
Factory designation
: ZX600-G1, ZX600-H1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America).
Factory designation
: ZX600-G2, ZX600-H2.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (all markets).
Factory designation
: ZX600-J1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (all markets).
Factory designation
: ZX600-J2.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) (all markets). Factory designation
: ZX600-J3; ZX636-A1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) (Europe, North America). Factory designation
: ZX600-K1; ZX636-B1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) (Europe, North America). Factory designation
: ZX600-M1; ZX636-B2.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600-N1; ZX636-C1.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600-N6F; ZX636C6F, ZX636D6F.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600P7F.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600P8F.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600R9F.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600RAF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600RBF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R (Europe, North America, Asia).
Factory designation
: ZX600RCF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600RDF; ZX636EDF + ZX636FDF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600REF; ZX636EEF + ZX636FEF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600RFF; ZX636EFF + ZX636FFF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (Europe, North America, Asia). Factory designation
: ZX600RGF; ZX636EGF + ZX636FGF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (North America, Japan). Factory designation
: ZX600RHF; ZX636EHF + ZX636FHF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R;
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 + ABS (North America, Japan). Factory designation
: ZX600RJF; ZX636EJF + ZX636FJF.

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R + ABS (All markets).
Factory designation
: ZX636GKF (with ABS) + ZX636HKF (without ABS).

Model

: Kawasaki ZX-6R + ABS (All markets).
Factory designation
: ZX636GLF (with ABS) + ZX636HLF (without ABS).

Technical characteristics of Kawasaki Ninja 600

In 1995, the Kawasaki ZX-6R 600 cm3 sports bike was released, which ideally replaced the ZZ-R600 model.

The ZX-6R motorcycle was equipped with a powerful engine, high-quality handling and excellent practicality.

The ZX-6R didn't have much technical innovation other than the cross-ply aluminum frame that was new to the 600cc sports bike in 1995.

It is also worth noting that the liquid-cooled engine with a four-cylinder in-line 16-valve system has become one of the most powerful bikes in its range.

In 2001, the ZX-6R was modernized. Significant modifications were made to the “stuffing” of the motorcycle, thanks to which the motorbike became more advanced in handling. The carburetor engine, in addition to unsurpassed power, has impeccable traction for medium and low crankshaft speeds.

In the same 2001, Australian Andrew Pitt won the world champion title on a Kawasaki ZX-6R sports bike in the Supersport competition class, which confirmed the maximum potential of this motorcycle.

The history of the Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R

The Last "Ninja"

Kawasaki's goal with the Ninja is simple: to ensure that every bike bearing the name is the best circuit racer in its category. So that every Ninja driver experiences the extraordinary feeling of excitement and delight that only this car can give. So that, when driving it to the starting line and lowering the front visor, every driver knows that his “Ninja” has winning potential.

In creating the Ninja, Kawasaki engineers, as always, made extensive use of the most advanced technology and their own experience gained as a result of many years of developing super-sport machines and their production at . The new ZX-10R "Ninja" confirms Kawasaki's plans to build the best motorcycles in the world.

When it comes to cool machines, drivers and riders already know that this ZX-10R “Ninja” is the latest in super-sport motorcycle technology, even without seeing what Kawasaki engineers actually have in store. And that's true, because the 2006 10R gets a completely redesigned engine, chassis and aerodynamics that ensure the big Ninja will once again rule the roost on the track and on the street.

Riders who have experienced the 10R's epic performance at full throttle will find it hard to believe that Kawasaki's scientists and engineers have found a way to extract even more power from it. A set of major changes aimed at reducing mechanical losses and increasing the efficiency of internal combustion made it possible to increase engine power throughout its entire speed range with a softer and more uniform power take-off. At the same time, while maintaining the amazing power of the 2005 model, the designers easily met the Euro-III standard for atmospheric emissions.

The designers also improved the car's cornering behavior and rear wheel traction. The chassis has a new frame with modified geometry. The concentration of the machine's mass has increased. The heel of the foot gear lever has been moved, the rigidity balance has been changed, and the suspension blocks have been tuned in a new way. A lot of other changes were made to the design, not noticeable to most drivers, but affecting the lap time. Additionally, as befits a track-focused car, the new 10R features a racing-style steering damper.

However, a new engine and chassis mean nothing without a new body that represents their best qualities. Therefore, the 10R received completely new aerodynamics, allowing the car to pierce the air like a jet aircraft on afterburner. This two-wheeled “rocket ship” cannot be mistaken for anything other than a Kawasaki, even from a distance.

The new ZX-10R "Ninja" motorcycle is the latest technology even for the "Ninja"!

Having achieved perfection

The classic lime green Ninja 6R was designed to be the best sports bike in its class, and numerous race victories testify to the designers' success in achieving their goal. In an effort to proportionally distribute the weight of the motorcycle and minimize air resistance, Kawasaki managed to create not only an impressive model with its technical characteristics, but also decorate it with a sophisticated Supersport-style design.

The stunning 600cc engine impresses with its power and top-end speed, and is perfectly matched by light handling and improved suspension. Excellent cornering characteristics along with precise throttle control guarantee lightning-fast response to driver inputs, and the cassette gearbox increases engine efficiency. The lightweight aluminum body and perfectly adjustable front and rear suspensions provide the most comfortable and smooth ride.

The updated Performance Edition, released in 2012, features an upgraded muffler and a scratch-resistant windshield designed to improve aerodynamics. The 2013 sportbike will surprise fans not only with an even more stylish design and enhanced safety system, but also with the ability to select engine modes thanks to the latest advances in programming.

Productive and fast

The Kawasaki GPZ 900 R appeared on the market at the end of 1983, however, its history dates back 6 years before that moment.

In the late seventies, Kawasaki created the Z 1000 sports motorcycle, intended to participate in the AMA Superbike series in the USA and, subsequently, winning many victories on this track.

The next stage in the evolution of the bike was the road modification GPZ 1100 F1, which received a very hot temperament and accelerates to 240 km/h.

The immediate predecessor of the GPZ 900 R is the next creation of the Japanese concern Kawasaki, the GPZ 750 R sportbike, which differed very favorably from its competitors, both in its excellent speed and ride comfort.

Maintaining their leadership and strengthening their position, the engineers increased the engine capacity of their flagship.

In this form, with a 900 cc engine, a rear suspension equipped with a monoshock absorber, and a plastic fairing in the stand, the GPZ 900 “Ninja” motorcycle appeared before the world community.

The model instantly gained the status of a global bestseller, although it was sold in Europe, where the power of heavy motorcycles is regulated by law, in a “cut down” version to 100 “horses”.

Among connoisseurs, the 86-94 models are considered cult, and the “nine hundred” were sold more than 70 thousand copies.

“A motorcycle for beginners”, “for 1, maximum 2 seasons, and then you’ll sell it and buy something normal”, “doesn’t work”, “it won’t be enough for you very quickly”, “it’s better to buy a normal 600cc motorcycle right away”... What else can you hear when you say that you are going to buy a small-capacity model of this kind? In any case, I often see such expressions in the group about this wonderful motorcycle. What if you ignore it and move on? Long, far, even to places where such motorcycles seem to have nothing to do?

Kawasaki Ninja 300, how did we live with it these 6 years and 60,000 km? I hope someone will find it interesting and useful. Let's go! I suggest starting with the household part: operating experience, breakdowns, maintenance, etc. There were enough lyrics in the last post. For now... There will be few photos. Very. I apologize in advance, the photographer in me somehow failed, and there wasn’t much to photograph here. Operation of the motorcycle began on March 8, 2014. Finances were very limited, I wanted a new motorcycle, the dollar had just begun its ascent to the current 60-65 rubles, so there weren’t really any options in plastic, and even without plastic. On the other hand, I really wanted her. Well, apparently, for good reason. From the point of view of operation, the first thousand 30 km this motorcycle does not cause any problems at all. If you drive calmly on more or less normal roads, you won’t have to change any of the non-consumables at all. Standard times every 6,000 km change the oil, oil filter, if desired, you can change the foam air filter. If you can’t come to an agreement with the green amphibian, you can wash and soak the old one, but my amphibian is compliant, I change it. All the same, the cost of the event (oil and two filters: oil and air), even together with the work, falls within 3-4 thousand rubles. The first and subsequent 12,000 km (that is, essentially every other time) there is a little more work; according to the regulations, you need to change the spark plugs and adjust the valves. Based on my experience, I can say that the latter should not be neglected: there has never been a time when at least one valve did not “run away” somewhere. During this operation, you have to drain the antifreeze (to remove the valve cover you need to remove the thermostat, otherwise there is no way), so we change that too. If “green” is against it, you can try pouring the antifreeze into a clean container and then pouring it through some kind of “filter”. I did this a couple of times, but rather for reasons of rationality: why pour out the antifreeze that you poured in there literally yesterday, or even 15 minutes ago (yes, this also happened)?! Around the same mileage I run out of pads (both front and rear). Also to replace. If you drive with all your money, you can also add a chain with sprockets, many of them are already asking for replacement by this mileage. My sets last a little longer.

18,000 km. But not much. In addition to the standard “6000” maintenance operations, every 18,000 km I regularly need to replace the chain and sprockets. For the first time I changed the factory EK to an RK XSO-Z1, the life of which was quite eventful with rain on the road to Kazan, and in the end complicated by a wild long drive to Murmansk and a large number of roads for which this motorcycle is not intended at all (if you like to read a lot, I recommend a story about this train from Vampir4ik in four parts: ; ; ; ). If you are changing the drive sprocket for the first time, prepare a hefty lever. I don’t know what and how this nut is tightened at the factory, but it is very difficult to unscrew it. Usually together, with a meter-long key, with wild effort. The impact wrench doesn't help at all. I usually wash the chain with kerosene. The lubricant is most often Motul C4. There was an experiment with Ipone, but somehow it didn’t work for me at all. In rainy weather it evaporates instantly, and upon application it thickens very quickly. There was a feeling that it was no longer the bushing-roller friction pair that you were lubricating, but the side plates. I don’t rule out subjectivity in this matter, but it is what it is. I wash the chain either with a toothbrush or a Kettenmax machine and a can of kerosene (5 liters is enough for about 2 of my seasons, which is approximately 20,000 km).

At 24,000 km again, nothing interesting at all. Normal maintenance is 24,000 km. Oil, filters, valves, anti-resistance, pads, spark plugs. many have a second set of chain and sprockets.

At 30,000 km, the first consumable that was not quite for me was waiting for me: standard IRC tires asked for replacement, and the front wheel had worn out earlier. I probably accelerate too smoothly and drive slowly (this trend continued with the Z1000sx that appeared not so long ago, which was also the first to leave). I installed the Pilot Street Radial in the standard size. It is unlikely that it will be the same for you, but suddenly. Many people almost immediately throw away this rubber (that is, sell it) with the words “oak.” Maybe, but for a quiet ride it will do just fine. I can’t tell you when it will end, everything is very individual, and few people drive it for a long time. I immediately changed the brake pads before Murmansk, so that on a long distance of almost 6,000 km there would be no problems with this (yeah, of course, so that without incident, but go, well, well).

right at a speed of 100 km/h, the caliper flew off and began to dangle merrily and hit the disc, naaais - there are 2000 km to Murmansk ahead, and I have “this” here. As a result, replacing the hose with fittings upon returning from the trip

Otherwise it's the same as it is.
It’s only worth noting that although the guides of the pads need to be tightened, they must be tightened carefully... if you have a lot of strength in your hands, but not a lot of intelligence, like those craftsmen who climbed there at the last change of pads, there is a big risk of bending the edges of the hexagons and starting a dreary the process of drilling them out of the caliper. That's what happened to me, thanks to the fact that even though the metal is soft, they are not difficult to drill. 36,000 km, 42,000 km everything is boring again. Consumables again. Up to this point, everything that happened to the motorcycle was absolutely standard, predictable and not expensive. At 36,000 km I changed the chain from RK XSO-Z1 to DID VX2. She served without any complaints. The only thing that has changed is that the paint on the tank has rubbed down to the metal on the left, where my knees touch when I shift my legs to change gears. Maybe this is a feature of my fit and design. But the metal is highly polished. I hope I don't wipe it? Plastic, by the way, has also lost part of its “pattern”. Little things.

Next, non-standard expenses await you, which you will no longer be able to plan. The first interesting things began to happen, partly due to my desire to ride in any weather, from snow melting to stable minus. I don't care about the rain, I don't care about the dirt, etc. By 47,000 km the generator died (to be precise, at 46,000). He did not die immediately. One rainy evening, when I started the car to drive home, the battery light came on on the dashboard. We've arrived. It seems like it’s 35 km from home, but it’s raining, Moscow, evening... traffic jams for an hour and a half. The battery should have lasted about an hour. And then the neighbor is on fire. Judging by the fact that I got home and the battery gave out as much as 11V, the generator did not die completely. The next day I went to the workshop for a replacement, and the motorcycle was delivered again. It was only in the workshop itself that the generator died completely. Thank you for delivering. you fought until the end. An autopsy showed that a couple of windings had reached the end of their service life (at about half past midnight there were blackened coils, apparently they killed everything).

The price of a new generator is quite decent - approximately 25,000 rubles. for a new original one. There is another option to send the burnt one for rewinding: the price is 5-6 thousand rubles for a factory version with a 6-month warranty. Fortunately, it fits the previous 250 cc model with minimal modifications. All you need to do is find a used one, do a little work with the braid of wires from the generator, because... The 250ki has a different arrangement of terminals on the body and the crankshaft sensor is located slightly differently. We shorten the braid from the generator, insert the original crankshaft sensor with its connector into the rubber seal and move on. The only thing worth taking into account is that it is weaker, about 2A less current at the same speed. But I’ve been driving with it for 14,000 km now, no problems.

At about the same mileage there was a knock from the rear suspension. More precisely, they creaked. 2022, the fourth season, we had to climb into progression. An autopsy showed that this should have been done about a year ago. The suspension is mounted on bushings, without bearings. Somehow, miraculously, water got in through all the seals, kept quiet about it and killed one of the bushing-lever pairs. The scuffs in the lever body left no chance. Replacement only. Fortunately, there was a lever from a Z750 lying around. absolutely the same, only not black. What difference does it really make to us? We take it and put it on. Most likely, it makes sense to look in and lubricate the progression every couple of years if you drive not only in clear and dry weather. In general, it’s not very expensive, if you order, then with delivery the lever itself will cost about 7-8, but there’s also a mountain of seals and bushings that don’t always all survive. So 10 thousand can fly away. You can look for a used one. You'll save a lot.

± at the same time, the seals on the pump will almost certainly run out (more precisely, the ceramic seal of the water part). Mine started leaking somewhere after 45,000 km (I began to notice the loss of antifreeze, but very insignificant). Over the winter, with a mileage of 47,000 km, approximately half of the expansion tank leaked. We sat down with a mechanic, looked at the diagrams, ordered a repair kit for the pump, fortunately it was only 3 thousand rubles for the oil seals and gasket with seals. But we miscalculated... Does everyone know how a more or less standard pump works? So, there are two oil seals there... and the repair kit only contains an antifreeze, ceramic one. Taking it out of the case is still a pleasure. OK. We got it, changed everything, put it back to normal. I left, but had to return the next day - the oil seal leaked. It is not on the diagrams or in the catalog. It seems that the factory rather plans to replace the entire pump. Apparently due to the fact that to replace this oil seal, you need to press the pump shaft bearing out of the pump body... In the end, they spat and installed it from a used engine with a mileage of approximately 9-10 thousand km. If you don’t have this on hand, prepare 12-14 thousand for a new pump. For the same maintenance run, the clutch kit was completely replaced: friction discs, steel discs and springs. About 5-7 thousand rubles all together without work. It still worked, but I didn’t wait until it started to actually slip. It starts to grip right when you completely let go of the handle (it has free movement). Yes, this clutch still grabs only at the very end, but it was no longer normal. About boring oil, filters, pads, etc. I’m not talking about the list.

54,000 km. The brake discs have already come to an end here. And here you will find completely indecently expensive spare parts. No doubt, you can buy Chinese ones for, it seems, 3 thousand rubles, or so, but I’m afraid to install something like that in the brake system. If with front discs for a motorcycle with ABS you can still order EBC discs, which are at least a little cheaper than the original for 17 thousand, then with the rear there are no options - only original ones, for 12,000 it seems. The whole problem is in the ABS comb, which for some reason was mounted on rivets, despite the fact that the front one sits on screws. Strange decision. New wheels cost 35,000 rubles! During maintenance I replaced the DID VX2 with an RK GXW, let’s see if it might be enough for 24,000 km (the sprocket, of course, also needs to be replaced). Purely for preventive purposes, the fork was completely rebuilt; except for the oil, everything was absolutely normal, nothing could be touched. On the other hand, you can find out that you have run out of coating on the bushings only by removing the bushing, and once you take it out, then change it. I'll still run more than 50,000 km in it. It turned out to be one of the most expensive maintenance

By this time, I began to notice that while warming up, the engine periodically stalled spontaneously. Observations have shown that the signal from the neutral sensor stops coming. Over the course of a considerable mileage, its copper contact completely wore off on the copy shaft, as a result it stopped reaching it altogether, the contact disappeared, and the motor stalled. A new sensor costs 1000 rubles, but again I found a used one in new condition for 200 rubles. The main thing is to pick out the washer from the old one from the engine housing, or not to put a new one on top (I’m a fool, I know), otherwise there will be no contact at all.

at 57,000 km the low beam began to blink and disappear - the reason lay in the contact near the headlight. Water got in, the contacts were acidified, they got burned, etc... It's boring.

But changing this contact is a lot of fun! To get to it normally (we don’t want to just bite off what we have and twist a ready-made detachable pair on twists!) you need to remove all the side plastic (all of it!) and remove the entire face along with the headlight itself, mirrors and windshield. Only then will it be possible to somehow get to this connector to disassemble it and re-crimp it to a new one. I bought a sealed two-pin connector from who knows what. The main thing is that it is sealed. Two hours of fussing, a friend’s help to assemble one half of the connector (without this nothing would have worked at all), a couple more tips on how to get to it more conveniently and everything was restored.

It seems that everything comes from repair adventures. Some of this may not happen to you, something may happen, but sooner/later (although the statistics here with the chain are decent - the average mileage is 12,000 km according to one good workshop).

Now the mileage is 60,000 km, the second set of tires is slowly running out, and the timing chain is starting to rattle. By the way, there is one “problem” with it. To replace it, you need to cut half the engine... Kawasaki engineers made some kind of tricky extension on the engine crankcase right next to the chain drive gear and it won’t be possible to remove it. Options 3.5: 1. rivet the new and the old, pull the new one behind the old one, rivet everything back; 2. Half the engine, change the chain, and at the same time a bunch of other elements, at the cost of half the motorcycle. 3. File off the boss on the engine crankcase and pray that nothing happens. Option 3.5 - just buy a contract motor and swap... I don’t know what to choose yet. Probably, when the timing chain starts to rattle openly, we’ll do a compression measurement. If there is still life left in the cylinders, then we will cut off the protrusion and see what happens. If the compression is gone, then we will look for a contract live motor... With all this, surprisingly, the wheel bearings are absolutely healthy, which makes me happy and saddens the set that has been in storage for 3 or 4 years.

Now for a little boring numbers. To understand the cost of ownership ±. TO 6,000, 18,000, 30,000, etc. km - if you do it yourself, it will cost you about 3.5-4 thousand rubles for consumables (most of it is 2.2 liters of Motul 7100 oil, HiFlo 303 oil filter, HFA2505 air filter, you can also change the washer under the drain plug sometimes, it costs a penny ) TO 12,000, 24,000, 36,000, etc. km - to those 3.5-4 thousand we add 900 rubles for spark plugs, and about 5 thousand for adjusting the valves with replacing antifreeze (you can, of course, try and do it yourself, but you need to have a pile of washers available, who knows what kind you will need). The washers cost about 500 rubles each, so it’s worth investing in at least one. Also, most will have to change the chain + sprockets. Together with work, it should be about 11-12 thousand (without work, about 10 thousand). Brake pads for both wheels are another 6 thousand. In total, you will run away with about 28 thousand rubles. Once every 4 years, it makes sense to inspect the brake calipers and at the same time change the brake fluid. I have never done it yet, but I have a suspicion that it is necessary. I'll go in the spring.

About not exactly consumables: a Pilot Street Radial kit in standard size will cost 13,000 rubles, a clutch will cost about 7,000 rubles, a fork rebuild with consumables (oil, original bushings, non-original oil seals, boots) and labor will cost 11,000 rubles. The average consumption over the entire period of operation is 3.76 l/100 km, but over the last 2 years the average is 3.9. Before this it was stable at 3.7. Either the engine began to get tired, or the lack of long-range vehicles is taking its toll, or the presence of a liter sports tourer in the garage from 2022 and a slight change in the acceleration rate. Hard to tell. And so, in 6 years, 216 thousand rubles were spent on consumables and maintenance (and with equipment and accessories, all 441 thousand), but I don’t regret anything. The motorcycle brings great pleasure.

The motorcycle is very convenient for the city. Despite having the Z1000sx liter sports tourer for three years now, I prefer the youngest one for the city. It weighs less, is easier to maneuver, and consumes less (3.9 liters instead of almost 7 liters - a big difference). If you wish, you don’t have to limit yourself to just the city. The motorcycle can easily handle long journeys, the main thing is to be prepared for them. Nothing terrible will happen to you on the track. Yes, the dynamics after 120 are no longer amazing (you can reach 100 km/h in 7 seconds, which not all average cars can do), but it’s enough for a quiet ride, even with a passenger and cargo. And you can load it very decently. At one time, brackets for a central case + side bags were on sale. Naturally, all this was gradually mounted on the 300k.

thanks again to Vampir4ik for the great photo

Even so it goes, and 170 (according to the speedometer).
Maybe it could be more, but I didn’t need that either, I was just checking one small misconception. Where we visited: Vladimir, Murom, Suzdal, Yuryev-Polsky, Kazan, Tula, some village outside Tver (what kind of roads are there, wow! The patch area is many times larger than the remains of the original asphalt), Minsk, Nesvizh, Mir, St. -Petersburg, Vyborg, Ivan-gorod, Murmansk + Rybachy Peninsula (60 km of rocky hell, but the nature is simply divine). It is unlikely that with the Z1000sx there will be anything more to come, but this is already more than one could imagine when buying it 6 years ago. I think I'll write something else about her for her 10th anniversary!

Control and maneuverability

The Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R motorcycle has a bold and aggressive appearance.

Its weight is reduced, the exhaust pipe is short, and the chassis design has undergone major changes.

As for the power unit, it has also undergone significant modernization.

Its maximum balance allows for much better power transmission at different operating speed ranges.

Therefore, we can say that the Ninja 600 was created specifically for track competitions. The latest equipment has been installed here.

The engine contains magnesium parts, and this has a positive effect on the weight of the two-wheeled unit.

The unique design, which was worked on by the best engineers in the world, allows the biker to easily negotiate turns while moving at high speed.

The rider's reaction is quickly taken into account by the motorcycle. This is facilitated by the ideal balance of the suspension and frame rigidity.

It uses the latest fork with tuning elements, as well as a proprietary steering damper.

But that is not all. Strong radial brake calipers and a sliding clutch design make handling even easier.

Weight loss

Nevertheless, the task was completed, and in 1985 the Kawasaki Ninja 600 went into mass production. The start was successful, and the developers were already celebrating their victory. However, if the first batches of cars showed good test results, it soon became clear that the Kawasaki Ninja 600 motorcycles were too heavy on turns, and this is a serious drawback for a racing car, fraught with unpredictable consequences. Kawasaki engineers, without stopping the conveyor, developed a program for gradually reducing the weight of the sportbike, while trying to position the center of gravity of the structure as low as possible. The results became noticeable immediately. The dry weight of the motorcycle decreased from 192 to 180 kilograms. “Kawasaki Ninja” (600 cc) has acquired the necessary maneuverability and stability on sharp turns.

In addition to its unprecedented low weight, the motorcycle now has a responsive steering characteristic, which is usually distinguished only by light bikes with engines up to 125 cc/cm. In a word, perfect racing cars began to roll off the factory assembly line, which could guarantee the athlete a high place on the podium. Nevertheless, the engineering corps of the Kawasaki concern did not stop there and continued to improve the Kawasaki Ninja 600 model.

Dimensions and weight

The wheelbase of the motorcycle is 1410 millimeters, which is quite enough for a classic mid-ranger. The length of the bike is small - only 2055 millimeters. The width matches the length and is 740 millimeters. The saddle height is average, reaching 790 millimeters. The height of the motorcycle itself is 1135 millimeters.

With such average dimensions, the motorcycle also has a quite suitable average weight - 193 kilograms. From all of the above it follows that the bike is well suited for people of average height and physical strength. If a person who is too tall chooses such a motorcycle, the handlebars will simply rest on his knees. At the same time, a rider who is too short will experience other difficulties with landing and control.

Inconvenience in the driver's seat of a vehicle is a very unpleasant and dangerous factor that should not be allowed.